SOHC Pinto Ignition Wiring and Engine Overview

[@toddavies1326]

Ballast resistor not needed as electronic ignition will run 12v no problem 👍 Ballast resistor in basic terms only lowers the voltage for start up on cold days for example, points in dizzy which you don’t have and a lower voltage coil. If your running a 12v coil (non ballast coil) now - you are missing out on a good spark as your only running 9v You need to make sure it is a non-ballast coil though before removing ballast resistor or you will fry the coil Nice build

[@calebrohrbach3866]

How would you wire in toggle switches and push buttons

[@stevehillier7018]

Very good. Pinto always 1342 unless it’s the old Kent OHV Crossflow which is 1243 firing order.

[@bigtunitube]

very interesintg, may I ask why you do not let oil drain back into the oil sump, either directly (new hole) or via the PCV-valve (deleting it and just keeping it open)?

[@bryonypengelly1592]

Hi I found it very easy to follow up to the ballast resister part , what wires go in to this and from where ? Thanks dan

[@gringotom242]

On the standard engine one of the wires from the ignition to the coil should be a thicker grey wire, this is the ballast resistor. On my car this had been replaced with a standard wire, so I cut it in half and added an aftermarket ballast resistor in the middle.

[@wurzle48]

Great work thanks for sharing 👍👍

[@senna138]

How about your alternator?

[@Nicwatsonlive]

Really helpful thanks!

[@bryonypengelly1592]

Thanks , but I am putting the same engine in a BMW e46 so I have no wiring from the ignition as going through an ignition panel so where does the resistor come in that , and what type of resistor , dan

[@gringotom242]

The resistance is probably built into the ignition panel somewhere in your case. As far as I know the ballast resistor is to lower the voltage under normal running, so the engine will probably run fine without it but you might see some electrical components wear out quicker than they would otherwise. Basically the coil usually has two ignition feeds, a high 'starter' voltage and a lower running voltage. on my engine this is two separate wires, but in your car it's possible that the ignition panel controls this and they both use the same wire. Hard to tell without digging into the wiring loom. I guess to tell if it's set up properly you could get the engine running then use a meter to see if the running voltage is lower then the starting one.

[@robertkidd2192]

Hi looking for a simple strait forward and original photograph of which wires go where on my SOHC powered 1978 ford Cortina - Am having a hard time finding anything other that technical ( and to follow schematics ) Thanks bobby

[@henryokafor8512]

Car is a firetrap!😄

[@CraigDavies.]

@@henryokafor8512 Would you care to explain what have you noticed.. After watching Pete/ Cortina city and his engine bay setting alight due to petrol pipe falling off I'm looking in to having a safe as possible engine bay. I far as I can see on this video plastic fuel filter in engine bay and ignition leads not in factory position. Thinking of adding extra heat shield on mine.

[@Treeman1996]

Would 2.0 distributor work in 2.3 I'm trying to find points distributor for my 2.3 can't find any for life of me

[@shadeauto3373]

2.3 is a v6 no? 6cylinders needs 6 points of trigger, so id say no

[@joemacdonald8849]

@@shadeauto3373 2.3 is the same 4 cylinder engine with a longer stroke. 3.0 is the displacement for the v6 "cologne" engine used by Ford.

[@shadeauto3373]

Why the need of the ballast on electronic ignition? Also the "jolt" wire seem unnecessary

[@mk3nog]

I thought this to....electronic ignition needs 12v ...ballast resister knocks 12 to 9volts🤔.... when fitting electronic ignition you remove resistor and run a good say 40amp wire instead for straight 12volts....

[@atakhanbirinci7680]

Need your mail for questions? 😊

[@atakhanbirinci7680]

Awesome really 😊