Solar Furnace for under $50

[@garylangley4502]

I took a solar energy class back in the '70's when if you wanted to do anything with solar, you had to build it yourself. I am glad to see that there are still people who can build things!! If I might make a suggestion about a solar air heater. Build a box like you did, but leave some room for insulation. Cut some plywood for the back, and put some insulation on it. Styrofoam sheets are easy to work with. Put some cleats on the inside of the frame, and you may have to put a few supports in the middle of the box. Put corrugated metal roofing on top of the cleats, and paint that flat black. Your idea of using reclaimed windows is fantastic. Abs plastic pipe is a great idea, with the inlet at the bottom and exhaust at the top. Insulate the pipes that are outside. For more efficiency, tilt the box upward so that the angle to the ground is the latitude you are at, plus 10 degrees. This will aim it at the sun better in the winter. Keep up the good work, and keep experimenting with things.

[@rickprice407]

We built a few a couple of years ago with 4x8 sheets of 3/8" plywood and some 1x4s around the sides to frame it. Used some scrap 1x4s for a raceway inside and painted it all flat black inside. Once we sealed some old windows to the front we hooked a squirrel cage fan to the bottom end and some venting at the top. On a good day it would run a 25 x 20 garage shop to over 80 with a start temp in the 30s in under an hour. Quickly fitted it with a temp control on the fan. Used a similar design for solar water heaters using some 55 gallon drums of water, a 4'x4' solar chamber with 1" black pipe in a coil. Using a pond pump for circulation, the water was kept near scalding all day and well into the night. Insulated drums were still hot the next morning.

[@nathanarthur801]

I need your blueprints!

[@OneMoreAnimalAndItsAZoo]

Can you give us a link to buy the blueprints? I want to build off grid in Wyoming. This would be extremely helpful.

[@hiltonian_1260]

A note to anyone who wants to try this: The return air line needs to be as large as the hot air line. Both have to be insulated. The collector box needs to be insulated. Otherwise you’ll just be collecting heat and radiating it back into the outside air.

[@zopEnglandzip]

That's what I was thinking, shouldn't be insulted inside the box but everything outside should be

[@steelsail]

I got around to putting some black spray paint on it and put a computer fan on it as well. For about 2 or 3 hours, it puts out heat like a hair dryer... works very well. I've put a large mirror on the ground so it reflects additional sun into the box. Fun project to monitor and fiddle with!

[@truthblastbroadcasting391]

I’ve noticed my oil heat is lasting much longer this year because I turned down the spray pressure and I opened the vents to my basement. Heating the basement ensures a more steady upstairs heat. Because heat rises

[@truthblastbroadcasting391]

Basically I am saying redirect this ABS pipe to your basement if it is toasty down there due to its thermal mass and bricks , upstairs should remain a good temperature

[@AmyLuthien]

I like your use of the dryer hose. It's a lot better than messing around with piles of aluminum cans! Thanks!

[@manfredwesteroth8241]

+Amy Luthien I see he has not replied to you, the reason for that is that he saved next to nothing. I tried a similar system to heat a pool and the out going water was only 2 or 3 degrees warmer than the water going into the hose. So there is no way to heat a house with that system.

[@manfredwesteroth8241]

+Manfred Westeroth Sorry for the mistake, this was to be a reply toSpiritBear

[@steelsail]

+Manfred Westeroth I'm sorry for not quickly responding to this question. I have responded to a similar question and even posted a follow up video with data. Please take a look at my other responses, to these good questions, to more quickly get a response.

[@kkarllwt]

Water has a high specific heat. If you got it to rise 2 degrees on a pass through a collector you were doing good. That is why a coil of plastic pipe on a roof is a good pool heater. It takes heat from the sun and the air. 72 degree water-95 degree roof temp and close air temp.Just buy the flat 2 by 20 ft pool heaters that lay on the roof.

[@thomaspmcguire]

you should use your dryer exhaust to add heat to the solar furnace too!!

[@kgucmen]

Seem legit and useful.... I’d love to see some temperature readings, intake air, exhausted air, outside temp., temp at the glasses, etc....

[@newsnowadirondacksredux360]

The glass will crack due to thermal stress.

[@kgucmen]

If so, why our window glasses doesn’t crack the same way? They are also exposed to the same sun...

[@OldNavajoTricks]

Check out beer can solar convection vids, a few guys do do thermometer readings.

[@Shastings1024]

@@newsnowadirondacksredux360 Not necessarily. it looks like 1/8 inch glass with jmold around it. No difference than what some have in their windows these days. single pane or double pane. I'm wondering if the glass is tempered.

[@itbarthur4u]

I like the simplicity of your design. Makes it more likely that someone will try it. Some people over think this type of project or maybe they enjoy working with different materials. Either way it's great to see American ingenuity at work.

[@Sliverstormcreations]

you're the first person I've come across that doesn't use cans and didn't cut threw their house thank you so much for this video

[@speedviper47]

Several things I want to mention. This could work, but needs some tweaking. First, place the unit as close to the window as possible (underneath). Second, use rigid 4" PVC pipe, wrapped with pipe insulation and then covered with 6" PVC sleeve to keep air warm as it goes from the chamber and into the house area. Third, use larger diameter intake pipes (1" up to 1 1/2"?_ to remove air from inside the house. Fourth. use a hole saw to cut a 4" hole in the wall (under the window) so that the PVC would fit snugly. (this keeps your house secure, looks far better). Install a collar on the outside using silicone caulk for a tight weatherproof seal. Install a deflector on the inside (with screen material inside the pipe to keep little critters out). Up to here, anyone who is fairly handy, can do all of these. Fifth (and toughest) install a damper controller inside the rigid pipe, wired to a thermostat to open when the air temps reach an ambient set temp and to close when it temp falls below the setting where you actually lose heat. This may not be as difficult as it might appear. (I installed a fan in an old gravity furnace, turning it into a forced air unit in my first house, back in 1972) Ran vent pipes from the plenum up through the floor and to the second floor where I spit the pipes off to two bedrooms and bathroom. It worked unbelievably well! Made a world of difference!!!!) I also have a B-I-L research engineer who could help me if I decide to go this way. This would make a nice and inexpensive way to heat an insulated shed in the winter time! I'll have to try this for sure!

[@steelsail]

It worked well a few weeks ago as we had sunny days that were cold. With direct sunlight, and I put a computer fan connected to a timer, the unit produces heat similar to a hair dryer (well over 100 degrees). The unit certainly helps keep the house warmer but I should've left this unit to states that have sun (I live in Oregon). It is all much fun to test and play with, though.

[@reneecase8678]

I hear you, I live in Seattle, would love to live in a place warm enough for this but would you need it?

[@thomascorbett2936]

Can't understand why you didn't spray the coiled tubing black .

[@nitrofreakmanho]

Will this work in the Canadian winters?

[@zulumagoo1]

when looking for those panels consider old screen doors or even a glass door. you just gave me an excellent idea for what to do with that pane of glass as big as a door. But in those old style doors where they have the small panel of metal on bottom for a kick panel then the glass that slides up and down. that panel, if found, would be perfect

[@AndreaM77]

I have one of those old glass doors! Thank you for the idea!

[@beforebefore]

At first glance, the inlet pipes from the house look a bit small. It seems a better match would be 4" insulated flexible duct for the inlet, and 6" for the outlet (to match your internal hose diameter). (obviously need the larger outlet hose due to thermal expansion of the heated air) Insulating the inlet pipe will help keep the box inlet temperature as high as possible from the house return air, and insulate the outlet to prevent loss of BTU's across that 3-4 feet of black pipe going back to the house. I would imagine as shown, there's little chance of getting any natural convection-flow (without the fan), but if you remove the inlet & outlet restrictions, it should be able to self-regulate... a higher temperature rise will cause more convection flow, preventing cold-air from being circulated when cloud cover happens. Just my $.02 worth... Thanks for your video!!

[@MrGarey1]

I am about to go off grid my self and ideas such as yours are very helpful . I'm doing the first couple of months with no power at all. I think it's going to be a great learning process. I will be uploading videos as the project progresses . So long from the Great White North.

[@Debald]

I've seen a couple systems like this. You can use more of the space in the box by replacing the dryer vent tubing with aluminum cans that are drilled out top & bottom and sealed together end to end. I'd also suggest wrapping the exterior PVC pipe in some insulation to prevent any heat loss on its way to the house from the box. Love this idea in general though. Cheers!

[@johnshilling2221]

Sammy Dewald, have you also noticed that nobody considers heat loss through single pane windows? Double pane -- at a minimum. Triple pane -- even better.....

[@Debald]

John Shilling more panes the better, I’d imagine cost would be an issue for folks doing this kind of project on a minimum budget. But maybe they have spares some how or a building supply thrift store nearby.

[@dereksuddreth8672]

Good work! So happy that I live in the Southern US. This may heat half of my house... Thanks!

[@mfahlers]

Nice design. I would insulate the tube running from the collector with closed cell foam and orient the collector for maximum solar gain.

[@johnshilling2221]

I've seen many versions. This one is interesting, however virtually every build includes very well done insulation inside the boxes and of course, on the ductwork. What I have NEVER seen, is a minimum of double pane windows. Triple pane would be even better. Not a big deal if you're in a warm/cool climate, but definitely a HUGE deal if you're in a cold climate region.

[@unclejack41]

Are you from earth !!?? 1 pane of glass required. Not 2or 3

[@robinmills9278]

Agree

[@robinmills9278]

How do you get power to run a computer fan?

[@daryljeandelalobo1909]

@@robinmills9278 you can buy 12 v solar panels that run chains of less off ebay for $5 cut the wire add a fan ....you can run them off a watch battery ffs

[@steelsail]

Wind at the coast is phenomenal. Wind in the Eugene area is very limited. When the weather systems move East, from the coast, they create high winds in certain areas where the valley meets the Cascades (unfortunately, not where I'm at so much now). The solar furnace idea is certainly the most efficient way to harness green power that I've come across so far.

[@benkojr]

My Uncle did this type of thing 30 years ago. Built a box with skinny dividers using scrap paneling to form channels like a maze (All painted black with a plexiglass cover.) with a thermal trip damper to let the warm air in to the garage. No fans to bypass the heat vrs.cold. It was kinda cool! Bigger at the entrance and got narrower as it got to the exit!

[@DanielJPowell1]

That's a great idea. The only major improvement would be to make the intake hose the same size as the hose that goes back in the house.

[@jrbailey2652]

OP

[@chrisrioux]

Better design would be to have the intake close to the floor of the house (and a much larger intake than those tiny tubes), this way, since heat rises and cold falls, the air would circulate naturally, and more freely, than having them at the same height. Also, you should orient the glass so it is directly perpendicular to the sun in the coldest months, for maximum solar gain.

[@Cotronixco]

Why are the return lines so tiny? You only get out the CFM you put in. Otherwise it has to be made up and wasted elsewhere.

[@kevingretzinger7695]

.... slower air intake allows the air to warm sufficiently. IF its passing through too quickly it wont allow enough time to excite the electrons enough

[@Cotronixco]

Nice guess. There isn't enough CFM there to heat a doghouse.

[@kevingretzinger7695]

@@Cotronixco its obviously only a proof of concept and not intended to heat his entire house. Dont shit on the man, these kinds of ideas are what will slow global warming. It is obvious that change is only going to come from the people.

[@Cotronixco]

Not shitting on anyone. Obviously it's a teaching moment for some. Global warming? LOL. That's a false religion.

[@kevingretzinger7695]

@@Cotronixco Wow... you must have your head in the sand. It is obvious that the climate is warming and don't tell me your one of the idiots that has fallen for the corporate sponsored misinformation campaigns.... Just like big tobacco had studies that showed smoking was good for you while people were dying of cancer in the 50's, or more recently how companies misled doctors regarding the current opioid epidemic and were at the same time developing methadone and suboxone for harm reduction programs... I don't need to defend the truth, and attempting too to someone that intentionally refuses too see it is pointless anyways. I suppose you believe thetrade center towers were brought down by planes too..... Simple logic, how do 2 planes bring down 3 buildings?

[@marydibble54]

This guy is a genius. This product should be manufactured, marketed and distributed for supplement free heat.

[@homevalueglass3809]

Sweet project, thanks for sharing! I wonder if there's a way to make it have any noticeable difference in the winter like in Minnesota where in the winter there's little sunlight and sub freezing temps. One idea that would probably be huge for this is you could install a 2nd window and silicone all the cracks to make an insulated air space. Then add a low-e mylar film to the outside surface of the inside window and that would allow solar energy to enter your heater box but greatly limit the energy loss back to the outside. Most low-e windows have the coating on the outside pane inside surface to limit the uv light coming in in the summer but low-e was originally applied to mylar film and installed in the first setup to help heat the room, called it solar mirror. When people accidental install a low-e insulated glass unit backwards, it really heats a room up! Also thinking if you could somehow manage to run the hot air in tube up high on the opposite side of the room and then the cold air out low into the heater box would circulate the air in the room better. If I knew something like this would work in the winters here, i'd try putting one on the garage.

[@marjamada]

Excellent video, thanks. I build solar-thermal heaters differently. In place of the aluminum hose, I suspend a piece of corrugated sheet metal, painted black. It is nearly as large as the inside dimensions of the box. An opening in the bottom of the box lets in fresh air, and a hole in the back wall of the box goes through to the room. It's also possible to draw room air at floor level into the box through a hole at the bottom. Box should be tall and narrow to aid the chimney effect.

[@ScientistPrepper]

Good video. Thank you. I'll be using similar. Would have been additionally helpful to see the temperature difference.

[@itbarthur4u]

There is a great fan design for this type of project. I used to see them in kitchens mostly. The fan is turned on with a pull chain that also opens a sealed vent at the same time. Turn the fan off and the vent automatically closes air tight. Another idea that makes it more automatic would be to use a driver vent with a flap that only lets air go one way. A duct fan attached to a thermostat would get air flowing in the right direction at a preset temperature.

[@truenews3763]

Use extended planter boxes to hide the window tubes coming in and out. Just a thought, lol.

[@jaridkeen123]

To be a good Scientist or Engineer when you make something you have to prove it works.

[@johnshilling2221]

NUTS! Do it for whatever reason you want, especially if you enjoy it. Don't ever consider spending any time - at all - proving yourself to others. Just who TF do they think they are, asking you to prove yourself to them? However, it does help if you're trying to make a sale... Proove it. Then take as much money as you can from the lazy, or ignorant, or no time/talent/skills, nitpicking crowd! (Remembering to be kind to the people that appreciate what you do) What the heck! Be kind as often and with as many people as you can. It's a good way to move from here to there.

[@huf67]

@@johnshilling2221 ... If you're gonna take the time to make, edit, and upload a video to show others what you've done, then yes, it would be helpful to show your efforts working. We already know that systems like this will work but if you have a newer design (i.e. not pop cans or gutter spout) then it would be nice to show how well your system works !!

[@jackbits6397]

@@huf67 I don't see this helping much for a house, but it could be a solution for a shed that you want to keep from getting below freezing.

[@SeaJay_Oceans]

"Demonstrate", not prove. Proofs are for mathmatics. In science you demonstrate your concepts and data and experiments all line up cohesively.

[@May5Guy]

I can assure you it does not work. The amount of heat generated will be trivial, as there is very little solar heat in the winter, which is how winter works, and all of the heat captured will be lost to the ambient air. I tried a solar water heater in the winter using black 5 gallon water tanks and got nothing out of it.

[@jeffreycardwell4373]

Good use of the natural heat from the sun. Also simple design

[@gabec2494]

I'm building something similar to this design. Items I used are: 36×72 frame from 2x6s backed with 3/4 in ply .5 inch insulation sheet 24' black aluminum flex duct 90 degree plastic elbows 2-8' flex duct for in and out piping to house 4" inline duct motor with speed control. 2 glass sheets Everything is black in the box. I plan on 2-45 degree mirrors to help deflect the sun in to max out exposure as well. I'll eventually convert to solar powered blower, just need a deep cycle battery to hook to a large power converter I got for free. Hopefully I'll get a video up showing specs and temps. It will be piped through a window with blower pumping up, while intake line will feed closer to the floor.

[@stinkymcnugs8545]

thats crazy talk! all you need is to set up a few heliostats that are maintenance free that boost this system! just use some reflective insulation from lowes. its mylar one side and insulation the other so it has some strength to it as well and is totally rot and weather resistant and cheap

[@HillbillyRock]

The convection of the warmed air will create an upflow without the dryer vent (maybe better) and you can drill some vent holes (use some screen mesh to cover them) on the bottom of the enclosure for fresh air. You can cut your exhaust hoses shorter (for greater flow), and just let them hang a few feet below the window (maybe cover with screen mesh to keep bugs out). I made one of these with painted styrofoam I had hollowed out and two layers of bubble wrap on the front. It worked great.

[@bighammer587]

Insulation. It's a very useful modern product. Insulate your collector, and insulate your pipes (inlets and outlet). Your "furnace" performance will be noticeably improved. You're welcome! 😊

[@MrOGREATWISEONE]

I agree with Rusty, even though it's painted with black paint the heat is repelled by the shiny surface after penetration of the paint. Totally black throughout is the most efficient way to go. Matt black is the most heat absorbent.

[@gregbaxter8523]

ive been doing hvac for over 15 years and if your heating a small closet that may slightly work. get ductulator app on your phone and it'll help you figure out what all you need to make this actually work. ground temp is also constant.

[@billjohnson6556]

This makes SOOO much more sense than gluing a bunch of coke cans together. THANX!

[@laragreene8328]

why? I would think aluminum cans hold heat.

[@mikaylastrong7622]

Building a few small solar heaters for my farm animals. It will be rarely used here in Louisiana, but cold snaps do happen, and i really don't like heat lamps around animal bedding.

[@steelsail]

I like the idea of the computer fan! I felt the top of the unit today and it was just darned hot! I think the unit will produce a bit of heat in my house but the real joy is playing around with this as a project. Let me know how yours goes.

[@johnshilling2221]

Keep at it, brother! Every genius began by tinkering, whatever their field. To everybody that criticizes you, ask them how well they performed the first time they had sex. Ask them if they gave up. Ask them if practice "makes better". Another thing to consider. Nobody is born with knowledge or skills. They learn it from other people, other sources. A very miniscule part of what people know comes from a truly unique and original thought. Most of us are parrots, repeating what we've heard. Copying what we've seen. It's shocking that so few people understand this, and if they do, they apply it to everyone else, never themselves! -- ! BECAUSE ! "I'm so much smarter than you are!" LOL, again! I would like to see your critics attempt to make a square cut. Attempt to build and install their project square, plumb, and level. Most critics I've come across only have one skill..., NITPICKING...!

[@magicdaveable]

I used 10 aluminum down spout tubes tied into a collector box at the top. My "furnace box" is 2x6 frame with a sheet of cdx plywood for the back and acrylic sheet for the cover. The bottom collector is attached to a hole through the wall into the house at floor level. The top collector is attached through the wall at the ceiling. I installed a muffin fan at the ceiling that is thermostatically controlled. The furnace is very efficient. It produces an average temperature of 170 degrees F on sunny days. It is worth the investment of both time and $$.

[@kkarllwt]

If the collector output temp is more than 30 degrees higher than the inlet temp. ,then it running to hot and losing heat to the outside. Move more air.

[@matadout]

Great concept.... A few ways It can be improved, but excellent for around $50 bucks! 

[@matadout]

Yes it would. Not a LOT, but it does work.

[@gabec2494]

Even if it saved a $1, it's worth tinkering around with.

[@MWL4466]

Cool vid. Great idea ! Definitely going to try it out. We had a brutal winter here in Ontario this year and anything that helps get heating costs down is a bonus. Thanks a lot !!

[@KimberleeT1961]

Did it work?

[@Delfinarbea]

Thanks very good idea. This is better than other web videos in which aluminum cans used, linked with silicone, porexpan, fiberglass insulation, etc. that can contaminate the air circulating at temperatures above 75 degrees. Only painting blak the aluminum tube.

[@kahwndry2012]

Id install it on the roof or at least away from the house in a open sunlight area for better operating range in hours and put the intake lower to the floor and the exhaust higher up for better efficiency in warming cold air i do like this build though it captures the engineer in me

[@Ravalat]

Solar heater! works fantastic during those cold summer months!

[@backinthemountains]

we are gathering supplies today to try. and for the glass windows, we have a solid pane, storm door, we are going to work with. be bigger but should work.

[@davidpapojr8531]

why not put the intake on the floor? suck out the coldest air in the home?

[@laragreene8328]

There is a cabinet in the floor where he put it.I dont think he wants a hole in the cabinet.

[@oldfish64]

Should have kicked it out on about a 35 degree angle for more direct sunlight.

[@kevingretzinger7695]

better yet... roof mounted

[@Accumulator1]

The higher the latitude the lower the angle of the sun and the reduction of solar radiation to be captured.

[@envidjunkie]

Interesting build! My only change would be a single, bigger intake instead of the two smalls, so that whatever convection action starts pulling air, there's as little resistence/air-to-pipe-friction as possible

[@jonjackson8811]

Sh*t up nerd.

[@gravitysports1]

I like this. You might find that your btu gained will go up if you ditch the small hoses and make your inlet and exhaust the same size. The airflow through the unit will increase, improving the heat exchange efficiency inside the heater. Exhaust temperature may drop, but btus will go up, because less heat is being lost in the heater and pipe. Also at a lower temp higher flow situation, you will get less off gassing from plastic parts and paint etc. Sounds counterintuitive, I know, but the most efficient heaters run at lower temps for this reason.

[@howdydoody30204b]

There are a lot of ways to make one of these, but I haven't seen this way yet. A couple of points, though. Seems to me that the return lines are undersized. Also, they should pick up at floor level where the coldest air is. And the exhaust should be directed upward a bit so as to not mix too soon with the cold floor air that you want to go to the furnace. Thanks for the video.

[@eugenehampshirejr4928]

the undersized returns create a hypnotic whistling noise

[@my1biz11]

would have to be much more efficient for NE Ohio area as we get hardly any sun during winter. One good start would be having your intake coming from the cool basement air instead of drawing out the same warm air you're putting into it.

[@phugwad]

Why would you want to pull cool air from the basement? You want to heat the air in the house, that's why you pull air from the house. Pulling cool air from the basement will just require more solar energy to heat it to a comfortable temperature.

[@williamhaskellhaskell3162]

Bad idea. We are heading living space. In and out from the heated space is required!

[@_checktease5529]

I imagine that at night you have a way to block off that system so that it's not just recirculating cold air

[@tnlightnin]

_ CheckTease i would think it logical to go with the vent idea all the way and fit a dryer EXHAUST door to prevent backflow of cold air...

[@321ozzy]

I like your Project, I have built a unit myself, using pop cans. I have added mirrors to boost the capacity. Next unit will be at least doublé the size and probably consist of flexible alu ducts. Thanks for sharing, regards from Mexico City

[@daschundloverable]

Does it really get cold in Mexico City? I'm now wondering if this will work in Chicago and considering the sub-zero weather we've been having here, it's been a cold winter.

[@2JobsStillPoorUSA]

daschundloverable Hi: I'm in Idaho, near Boise... I've used something similar to heat here. I have a south facing window and made mine inside the window sill. I get 140*F on a 10*F but sunny day. As long as you have sun, you'll have heat no matter how cold it is outside. No sun, no heat.

[@daschundloverable]

2JobsStillPoorUSA Oh, thank you!!!! About how much sf would you say it can heat? Are you using this the same one or something similar? I am very disabled and found one that uses only pop cans and that thick styrofoam? insulation, which would make it very easy to put in place in the only window I have on the south side. I've looked at so many of these, I can't remember which one this one is. There are some really good ideas out there!!! Did you know the EPA is outlawing wood stoves?

[@2JobsStillPoorUSA]

daschundloverable My house is 1325 sq feet. The main area the heater heats is the living room, dining and kitchen. At night, after the sun goes down I block off the vents because the heater does act as a heat sink, cooling air. In my case it works best from about 11:30am to about 3pm during the day. Although I think it would work best with some sort of solar fan situation, for me it is more of a supplement to the furnace. It would certainly heat a 24x24 foot room to a comfortable level. Mine is 1.5" styrofoam sheathing with a piece of metal siding centered front to back so the heated air can travel up both sides.The sheathin is protected by some self adhesive aluminum backed insulation. I just wedged mine in the window sill. (my windows are single pane, aluminum ones.) I would not use my method on vinyl windows. One note... it did get hot enough to MELT the styrofoam. Next one will be wood, with furnace vents to open and close.

[@PAFloridian]

How do the soda cans work? I mean, I've seen the units but haven't really seen where any of those 'styles' of solar energy are actually efficient.

[@tedtw]

You could make this more efficient by: 1. Adding a small DC fan inside the pipe to move the air. Fan could be solar powered. 2. Have the air intake for your dryer tubing outside of the box, not inside. That way you can seal the box and allow the air inside it to get warm, increasing efficiency by enveloping the entire pipe in heated air.

[@tedtw]

tedtw Oops! I didn't read the comment below.

[@rainman7992]

for maximum benefit, you should angle the box at about 45 degrees to maximize the amount of solar raditiation from the sun. also, wood is not a good insulator. you will lose heat to the outside via the wood and the glass. Smaller tubes inside the box would have given you more surface area for heat transfer. Also, one large tube insulated from house to box would allow for better airflow and plus would prevent the air from being cooled as it traveled outside the house to the box. Insulating return line would prevent loss of heat as air exited the box and makes it was to the house. The end result of all of this would be a 10 to 15 degree rise in the temperature of the air

[@Qui-9]

Great simple ides, but just delete the silver, or any hose for that matter. It's counterproductive! Argon filled dual pane glass which is not IR coated, and a flat black or other high emissivity surface inside will be your best bet. Just use the empty cavity inside and insulate the rest of the exterior 😊

[@jimzivny1554]

Nice project, I believe if the intake was at floor level it would circulate on its own, possibly not need a fan. I built one of soda cans and got an average twenty/twenty-five degree difference from intake and exhaust in winter just letting convection do it's job.

[@DGOTheResistance]

Insulate the pipe from the furnace to the house, you'll lose a lot of heat there. The bleed off from the cold air will not be offset by the black paint.

[@leiatyndall8648]

I was thinking along those same lines & that the insulative covering would also have to be painted black.

[@yearningforbernie7323]

Paint the intake hoses and all the wood on the box black. Then use a black rubber to insulate the inside of the box. Rubber or asphalt holds in heat really well.

[@artdoccmd8778]

I have had similar hot air units for 330 years. Six units about 3x6 feet each 6 inches deep . Boxes are on sloping roof on south East side inside each box are ENTERPHASE black corrugated containers containing heat collecting chemicals . each container is about 24x36 inches. X2 i.3 inches deep.Cost was abou § 60 each 30 years ago . Each panel has 5 ENTERPHASE containers. 8 inch flexible pipe pumps hot air into house by inclosed fans thermostat to turn on when heat is available , and thermostat when heat called for. In East Tn sun is up many days in early winter and spring when heat is needed. They come on about 9 am on sunny days , stay on till 5.7 pm 3 hours after sun not in range. Temp inside often 130 140 . I have same principle applied to sunroom facing south. It pumps hot air to opposite end of house , cooling sunroom..130 140 closed up , and warms house . ENTERPHASE panels are stacked in wall to hold heat . Propane heat bill for 3000 ft house runs 1500 per year . 3 w doctor chambers dot. Net Artdocc

[@0ParisFrance]

FINALLY ! the best idea I've ever seen, thank you sir.

[@frogsoda]

I would have got rid of that clump of weeds and built the furnace right under the window and vented it straight in. Good job though. Also you can find big screen TV's on the curb and take the Fresnel lens off of them for more concentrated solar gain. Almost makes me wish I didn't live in South Florida. almost.

[@pensoxgyrl]

There maybe codes in his location that requires clear access to windows on the ground floor.

[@frogsoda]

Carla Lindsay What about Air Conditioners?

[@pensoxgyrl]

AC can be put any where. . .I'm sure anyone who has ever had a unit. . . .doesn't want it in front of a window.

[@frogsoda]

Carla Lindsay I'm talking about window mounted units.

[@pensoxgyrl]

Those can be shoved out of the way.

[@Kyle-sg4rm]

@Raymond Gulley I realise this was quite some time ago and you may have a more suitable heating system now - but if not, you may want to consider a compost air heater. It doesn't necessarily have to be a huge heap of it. I can imagine a compost tumbler with a few pipes through it (downspout is cheapest?). If it can be angled slightly, then it will work without a fan - or a small fan could be used to pump more heat....A gravity powered fan would keep it 100% non-electrical. Not sure how long those gravity fans can run...at least an hour would be useful. Or have both - a slight tilt for continuous heat convection and gravity fan for extra heat distribution in the evenings? Regular turning of the tumbler will keep it aerated and therefore aerobic. It would have to be emptied and refilled fairly often...I guess maybe every 2-3 weeks, depending on size. But much easier than building a huge Jean Pain style heap. I've seen something like this before, but they had over-complicated it. I need to have a go myself shortly.

[@thatfeeble-mindedboy]

If you could find some room to put some cans of Crisco, spray painted black, inside this enclosure, they would absorb more heat, and because of the change-of-state phenomenon (see latent heat), They would begin to release this stored heat when the temperature dropped after the sun went down. Can’t be the kind of Crisco that is liquid at room temperature… Has to be the kind that congeals to a consistency like lard or butter at room temp, but melts at like, 90 deg F or so, because it is the change of phase from solid to liquid that stores or releases all the heat.

[@HoosierNewman]

Also try prismatic plastic from office lighting, this would amplify the amount of sunlight onto the coils. Just a suggestion.

[@HoosierNewman]

simple solar cells could drive a PC fan and push air when the sun is bright enough to charge the solar cells.

[@mandolinic]

It seems to me that a massive advantage of this design is that the black paint(s) used to help heat absorption are completely separated from the air flow. Most other designs have air flowing past painted surfaces and then being ducted into the house, with no regard being paid to what nasty chemicals the paints might give off when exposed to the sun over many years - chemicals that will be breathed in by the house's inhabitants. By keeping the airflow separate from the paint, this problem is completely eliminated.

[@MorganBrown]

Cool idea to use dryer vent. I am trying to heat water with my box and while I can get box temp 60 deg above ambient at winter solstice, I'm not getting enough heat transfer into the water through the small diameter vinyl tubing. I probably need a few hundred feet of tubing in the box, which would be costly. I'm going to try an air heater box instead

[@donaldmiller2423]

Morgan Brown you might try an old car radiator. Thin water passages and many heat transfer fines. Although you may not be able to drink that water. But for just hot water ???

[@how2makeurhomeenergy]

thank you for sharing this video, I can now start my winter solar project..

[@edwardcnnell2853]

Supplemental heat like this small heater reduces the fuel demands on the main furl fired heat source. This is a supplemental heat that has no fuel costs unless you have an electric fan to circulate the air. Fan is probably best but can bring air into the house by convection.

[@berylbarker2255]

The way I see it is the heat would dissipated before it had any use inside. What little got through would rise straight to the roof. The pipe you use is just plastic not insulated!! you should have filled the frame with more tube and maybe placed a small fan at the bottom so as to pressurise the room a little. Keep 'em coming dude small things change the world.

[@DANBOY89GYM]

Brilliant idea that will be tweaked and improved by others but kudos to you for the attempt...

[@Triffgits]

This duct idea is much better than putting a bunch of cans together.

[@MALCOLMACDOO]

sounds great with the high cost of heating, anything would be good and its clean and green. build one for each lower sun facing window and it could reduce your heating bill the neighbors might think you're a bit nuts great idea and much of the material one can get for free

[@RK1FX]

Heated alloy foil = micro alloy particles in the air = heavy neurological problems from inhaling it... Idk, but this would need testing to see if the air is clear from it. The idea itself is very good!

[@bradleybrown8399]

Seems to me you would want to draw the air at the top of the box instead of the bottom, as warm air rises. A simple reworking of the dryer vent tubing would accomplish this

[@whiteknightcat]

Well THAT will sure improve the aesthetic quality and resale value of a home!

[@cwdor]

Verry good, but the secret is to put 3 layers of glass on it..plus it looks like that wall could could hold another 10 or 20 more...

[@ReviloLaPu]

you need to use "lead free" glass expensive but allows so much more of the uv rays to pass through instead of reflecting, heavy flat black "lead" paint (industrial use only) will conduct WAY more heat to your collector than any other paint.

[@harleyroadangel]

If you don't mind the light being darkened from a window...why not mount the whole thing covering your window. It would be like a super dooper storm window. Cover the whole thing up with black curtains inside, and who would know you have a furnace of sorts there. The back curtains would add to the solar heat draw, into the home. No one is saying you won't need supplemental heat, when the sun isn't out, but daylight hours....a big help.

[@klee88029]

Yahoo; "Miz. No Skills Living Singular in The Magical Land of Nada" thinks that she could accomplish this project on her own!!! Thank YOU!

[@katesgram]

I am thinking this would be great to heat a basement in the summer. Yes I said in the summer-our basement is 57 degrees in the summer-too chilly to sit down there and watch TV-hate to spend money to run a heater in the summer and while I like air conditioning- 57 is too cold. This would probably take the chill off and make the basement about the right temp.

[@onemarktwoyou]

I wouldn't have used the duct. Instead I would have doubled the glass with a small space between and screwed pop cans spaced 4 inches apart to the back with everything painted black. Warning do NOT use "e" glass(UV resistant). 1 and a half inch pvc would be more efficient, especially if it was covered for insulation purposes. Then I would have grabbed a used purge blower from a pulse furnace because it is very small and moves little air, about right for the size of this project. Then control it with a temp switch set for 100 degrees with 80 degree off setting to start with. These parts can be found used and about free. A local scrapper should be able to set you up.

[@Accumulator1]

Sewer pipe connected to a 🚽toilet flange mounted on a POS. All it needs is a flapper valve on the intake to prevent backflow, and a flush handle to purge humidity condensate.

[@RickDeckardMemories]

So why not measure the temperature to demonstrate the effectiveness? Otherwise I am skeptical.

[@larrywhalen127]

Dmitriy good idea, I see these outdated Tv's all the time in my city So the next time I come across one Im going to pick it up and remove the screen to use for a solar build.

[@markdemell8056]

Good Idea. Remember guy's and girls , too many cooks ruin the stew, Every one has big Ideas. Keep it as simple as possible!. His simple method works!

[@miguelcastaneda7236]

@@ANGLINARMY ahh vern does work this is just a take on old system used back in 50s and still used back in eastern northern states...check old popular mechanics and home improvement articles though theirs were much larger

[@SuzanneWho]

@@miguelcastaneda7236 Mother Earth News had several types of solar heaters. One of them was portable - use in winter, remove in warmer weather. It was tilted to catch more sun.

[@barbaracarmel7556]

Im actually making 1 like this today from a salvaged door frame & some old storm windows. Im stealing your idea except Im putting it right up to window so theres no heat lost in transit. Also some insulation. THX!!

[@imysteryman]

I liked the idea of using the dryer vent pipe. You may not know it but you have a big air leak between the windows where they normally seal in the middle. I would think you would need to increase the size of the intake pipe to be the same size as the bigger exhaust pipe to get better air flow, the 2 little pipes are not going to let much air pass through them. Also the pipe coming from the collector needs to be insulated so you don't loose the heat collected.

[@englandinacan]

The pipe, being black acts as part of the heating system itself. As it's plastic, it wont lose heat too quickly.

[@safetydave720]

If you paint everything (including the dryer duct) matte black efficiency will multiply. Also, recirculate one third of the air back into the heater.

[@Persian5word]

the fan wastes energy, so take out the fan and put a same size return pipe. Cold/warm air convection is enough to circulate the air!

[@Persian5word]

+Darryl Edington "any heat from the fan motor is added to the desired result" REALLY??? because out of 100% energy used by fan motor maybe 5% is converted to heat. A fan converts electrostatic potential energy to kinetic energy and not heat!!!

+Persian5word kinetic energy is converted to heat eventually too. No energy is loss when you want heat. The only better way to get heat from electricity (than 100%) is with a thermal pump (air conditioner) and those get around 300% efficiency. Ask any mechanical engineer...

[@ryszardwroczynski9968]

PERSON 5 WORKING, WHICH

[@papadraq]

You could use that glass/ mirror thing.. Looking glass on one side and mirror on the other side, so all the light and heat that goes into the box stays into the box..

[@MaxBrix]

Imagine posting a video then checking it a few years later and there are hundreds of comments telling you how to do it better.

[@S0anonymous]

You might consider elbow(s) on the inside intake to draw colder air from the floor.

[@michaelzimmerman8959]

It's quite ingenious idea, what if you painted the dryer hose black, it might absorb a little more heat, Thanks for sharing.

[@frankdiscussion9988]

>>>if you painted the dryer hose black, it might absorb a little more heat, >>> He did. Towards the end of the video.

[@lbowsk]

Interesting. However, as mentioned I'd need to see actual proof of heat produced before I wasted the effort to make this thing. And I'd install a simple fan inside the duct to force air movement along with a lot of insulation on the pipe outside the solar collector. I have solar hot water pool heat on the roof of my house. The filtration pump sends the water up to the collectors before it returns the water to the pool. It puts out an astonishing amount of heat. On a hot day, I can raise the temp of my pool 5-6 degrees in an afternoon. So the idea has merit.

[@groblerful]

Thanks for the vid. I am curious to know why you put the aluminum pipe work in.I would have thought if you made the box airtight, with a row of small holes at the bottom, it might work better, because the aluminuim pipe obstructs the sunlight striking the black plastic back. As hot air rises it should circulate through convection. It would be interesting to try it out and see which works best. Cheers.

[@paularata8145]

Black aluminum gets hot fast. Smiley face.

[@ofcv1238]

interesting idea. I don't see the need for flex pipe inside box. heat goes up and cold air falls. I suppose it allows you to control bypassing of air. otherwise you just need to connect box to window. I agree with previous comment that maximum efficiency is to not restrict return flow by having equal piping on both sides. note that the warmest air might be in your attic if not properly ventilated...but that is another issue.

[@alecw7063]

The pipe absorbs some of the heat being alumnium. It increases efficiency of heat

[@MercedezTheFmGirl]

I would love to see this work in -24 degree winter weather

[@bradmann8285]

You should try insulating the exhaust for improved efficiency and stay away from plastics like abs and pvc, they will leach fumes into the air that you are breathing when heated. Other than that, great job!

[@pnweezy]

I think with window cracked open that much you would have more cold air coming in than warm air on a cold day with little sun thus not heating the panel hot enough to draw warm air in. And if your windows are facing the sun rotating across that side thru out the day you don't even need that. Just open blinds or window shades that's it. Let the sun do it works. For me I always needed air conditioning in a room with window facing the sun. Only cold in winter. Spring, summer, fall, are very warm. I'm from California. Just different maybe.

[@datacreed]

I see what looks like a dryer vent on the side of the house. Couldn't that also be used to reclaim some dryer heat and preheat the box with an extra tube (providing piping to and from house stays sealed for non-toxic air).