Solar kayak - new propeller test

[@williamfraser]

Using an aircraft propeller might seem counter-intuitive. I explain their performance underwater here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/apyvZ2mZa7lsptE

[@oscarisaacsolis7534]

use super capasitor

[@Unknown2i3]

Add battery for backup. Because it won't run at night or in rainy weather

[@vinny8532]

are those pontoons custom?

[@williamfraser]

@@vinny8532 yes, glued sheets of xps foam, shaped and covered in thin fiberglass.

[@spectre2466]

Key note for solar panels: shade on even just one cell of a panel will act as a resistor to the whole system which is why you get such a drastic decrease in power despite having several other solar panels with full sun coverage.. The single cell actually restricts the flow of current.. Thats why panels are best for keeping batteries charged and running the motor off of the battery. Hope this helps! :)

[@integr8er66]

@Alfonso Soriano If they were all in series one dead cell would not slow the motor it would stop it

[@gregorylewis4404]

excellent info, thanks

[@simdealelectricsnig8461]

The weight of the battery should also be put to consideration

[@ddee2501]

@@steveddad4385 all panels have a bypass diode built into the junction box. He would be better off with a Lithium deep cycle battery. They are light weight so weight wouldn't be an issue.

[@RobertSeviour1]

@@ddee2501 Weight doesn't matter much if your speed is constant.

[@garethbaus5471]

The outriggers seem like a nice feature even if they didn't support photovoltaics, the extra stability might be enough to make it reasonable to stand up in your kayak if your back gets sore from sitting.

[@cuzimnik25]

Many have said it. You need a different prop. Match it up with the lowest kv motor for your voltage. Brushless 110-120kv (@ 12.6v)motor with a trolling motor prop. I would find an old trolling motor and gut it. Use the shaft cut off and coupled to a brushless motor. Seals work well and you can cut weight by removing the old trolling magnets and resistors in the front if that's where they are located. Esc can be ran using a servo tester / potentiometer. Best of luck. Please make more videos!

[@williamfraser]

I have just tested a 215Kv brushless with bevel gear reduction drive. Unfortunately the electronics did not play along but I am working on it. New video soon. On the subject of the prop - a fluid is a fluid. If Reynolds number is the same the prop would not know the difference. Reynolds number is all about ratios, so for a given size prop all you need to do is match the rpm to suit the new fluid's density and viscosity.

[@cuzimnik25]

Gear reductions will create drag because of the moving parts. Why not go lower on the kv and direct drive the prop? Get crazy and make a single blade counter weighted prop! I would even think about putting the prop in the front with a small nose cone. The turbulence from the rear of the case can't be helping. Just ideas. Thanks for the response. I really enjoy this kind of stuff. 15 years in rc. 5 of them fpv. Now 2 weeks with an electric kayak and I'm thinking how I can make it more efficient. Cheers!

[@williamfraser]

@@cuzimnik25 There is indeed more drag on the gears but it allows me to mount a large motor on a vertical shaft and keep the underwater housing small and streamlined. My new design does have the prop mounted in front. Spinner turned out of Black Cherry on a bench drill. The 3.7:1 gear reduction gives me the equivalent shaft torque and rpm of a 58Kv motor. I should now be able to swing a 10" prop with very coarse pitch, further improving efficiency, hopefully enough to justify the gear drag. Finding an actual motor with such low Kv is near impossible. I would still prefer a submerged motor though, the bevel gears are finicky buggers when it comes to alignment and adds to the noise.

[@nathanmciver6737]

Honestly, for someone just getting into solar that is an awesome way to show them how sensitive your rig is. I'm sure not all would do that, very interesting. I can appreciate simple because currently I am working with alternative energy and I know how tiring that can be! Rewarding as you know when you have the work finished

[@nerminjahic4125]

A small battery can fix all that, battery would give it consistent speed. Easy fix.

[@josecanedo007]

Wow, a multimeter in a kayak, thats practical engineering! Congratulations.

[@Nevertrustalawyer]

Might it be a good idea to mount the motor on the rudder? Might be quieter?

[@williamfraser]

Rudder mounting has a lot of advantages and would be my preferred option in the long run. During these trials it helped having direct access to the motor while on the water for troubleshooting and removing weeds from the prop.

[@emmanuelr710]

A few easy optimizations 1. Apply a battery to capture the energy for a more stable motor output 2. Use flexible panels to make the skin of the kayak panels (much more surface area)

[@paulanthonybridge5741]

And don't forget a Rolls-Royce Trent turbojet.

[@monmejares]

Add battery so you are charging when the motor stop.

[@elcajondavid1]

I would add a battery incase of cloud cover.

[@arnavrevankar444]

I would carry a paddle

[@williamfraser]

@@arnavrevankar444 I always do.

[@TheJohanJonker]

Or even better add some super capasitors

[@williamfraser]

@@TheJohanJonker See my latest video with a brushless motor and supercaps.

[@E.K939]

You seem to have come up with a much better design for the solar panel placement then I had when I built my solar powered system.

[@williamfraser]

This was mostly driven by weight distribution. A solar roof would also be a nice feature for long days on the water. Roofs unfortunately require additional stability, being top-heavy as well as prone to catch the wind. The outriggers would have to be further apart and more buoyancy. Maybe my next project needs to be a catamaran...

[@garygerard4290]

I've messed with 760 watts of solar running a 30 lbs thrust 12 volt trolling motor. The pannels were all mounted above the canoe then I had a surfboard as an outrigger. I would time how long it took me to pass a leaf in the lake. I'd convert 'feet per second' to miles per hour. I'd do about 3.5 mph. Your 3.8 nautical miles per hours converts to 4.3 - That my friend is Moving! Too Cool, I'm going to see what else you have posted. Good Luck

[@williamfraser]

Thanks Gary. 760W is probably overkill for your motor. A 30lb motor typically draw 30A, i.e. only absorbing 360W. So you can ditch a panel and save some weight. At the end of my other related video you'll see a canoe with around 800w cruise past at close to 5kts. Choosing the correct prop is also important.

[@garygerard4290]

@@williamfraser thanks

[@skyfsa]

Add a capacitor bank to smooth out the breakup under shade.

[@richardalexander5758]

Pretty cool. Imagine a scaled up transport container ship as a hybrid saving hundreds of thousands in fuel, and pollution.

[@ZorroIsGod1]

get a good set of capacitor... that can store 10 mins+ dive time your all set..... when the clouds come you can stop charge and go. without good sun your toasted... even low sun stop wait 30min and go for 15 mint 1 mile full speed

[@DIYDaveT]

Really, add a capacitor and 35 thumbs up on that?? I guess this is not where electrical engineers hang out. It would require a huge capacitor in order to provide 150 Watts for even 1 minute.

[@ZorroIsGod1]

@@DIYDaveT nope...... Capacitor 2.7V 500F Super Farad Capacitance With Protection Board Sets.... this would give one minute and with a set of 12 your all set www.ebay.com/itm/Farad-Capacitor-2-7V-500F-Super-Farad-Capacitance-With-Protection-Board-Sets-/392387467932

[@SiMahDan]

unless u add current limiting circuitry, the cap would dump it's stored charge too quickly. Bat + cap is better.

[@KirillStolyarov]

If you use mppt for smaler strings that will be much more energy for your propeller.

[@williamfraser]

Agree 100%. The challenge at the time was cost. The cheapest mppt cost more than all the panels combined. I used an mppt when I installed the 300W panel and brushless motor. Top speed nearly doubled.

[@jimthvac100]

That is very cool, Thinking a possible improvement if you don't want to use a battery. is to use a MPPT charge controller on a Capacitor bank. The Charge controller would prevent the panel voltage from being pulled down to the point that they do not put out much at all. I am very impressed that 150 watts worth of panels would propel that kayak that fast. I really like your experiment.

[@FBPrepping]

Dude that's a really nice toy. Thanks for sharing. Pay no attention to negative comments. You're enjoying your sport without contaminating. Hat off.

[@olegs2607]

Hi, William! It great experiment! I think if U can to use other propellers, for the water, then it must increase the speed of run. But it realy great. Sincerely from Russia.

[@fryncyaryorvjink2140]

I think I've heard that if a portion of a solar panel is blocked, the whole thing is basically dead, so thats probably why the power dropped so much. Kinda of like Christmas lights, if one bulb goes out the whole string does

[@mikeydontlikey1]

I love how your testing without a battery that setup is great

[@joewoodchuck3824]

What's the point of testing without a battery? Batteries are an integral part of solar power collection. It's still solar powered if you put back what you take out of a battery with it.

[@ArcolaBridge]

Make a solar trailer for the kayak. It would probably weigh significantly less than your wooden Outrigger system. Totally awesome demonstration!

[@williamfraser]

Not a bad idea! If I tow it at just the right distance behind the kayak it would ride the stern wave with very little drag.

[@нехорошийсовет]

very interesting. and if you turn on a bright lamp during the onset of shade?

[@philemonsetshedi8444]

This is impressive William!

[@snakeclaw]

Wouldnt a battery, charge controller, and a trolling motor be an easier solar setup?

[@bigred8438]

Looks as though whole system is working very well. Would you carry a deep cycle battery as an emergency or would you simply paddle if needs be? Looks as though you have space for one more panel up the front. Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@williamfraser]

I have acquired some batteries but have yet to test them. I have tested with an extra panel up front but the motor had issues and eventually failed due to a leak and rust. A 300W panel fits nicely up front so the smaller panels will be demoted to the one-sheet canoe. The new panel drives a brushles motor with custom gearbox. Video to follow.

[@fcweng]

Interesting build. Try different propeller for water. btw, put a few reflector on the side of the solar panel to redirect the sunlight to the panels. It helps boost efficiency.

[@Lindalkidd]

That propeller is intended for high speed use in air. You should use a prop designed for water use.

[@williamfraser]

OK, let's race...kzbin.info/www/bejne/bKaQm2SdrbaFfcU

[@Andy-df5fj]

Actually, model airplane propellers are more efficient in water as well air because they are designed for maximum thrust, not cutting weeds as trolling motor props and to a degree, even regular boat props are.

[@gokhankeles8998]

Better to you accumulator and inverter. Direct electric from solar panel to 18 v drill without voltage control can be burn drill engine. If solar panels are paralel will be 65 volt a lot for 18 v i think

[@markyounger319]

I really like this concept and you have done a great job designing and making this. Thanks for sharing!

[@andersonbicalhodesouza3588]

Boa velocidade, belo projeto, vai virar uma febre nas vendas. Cuidado com a insolação!!!!!!!!!!👍👍🇧🇷

[@williamfraser]

Obrigado. Esta foi a primeira tentativa. O novo motor e painel ("Solar kayak 2.0") tiveram um desempenho muito melhor.

[@trevortrevortsr2]

If you put an MPPT between the panels and the motor it will hold the panels at their most efficient - alternatively if you put a cheap PWM controller between panel and motor you can adjust it so the panels are only pulled down to their max power point tracking which will be between 16.5 and 18v for 36 cell panels - the way you have it now you are stalling the panels - your tweaking the prop to alter the load on them - very interesting project

[@williamfraser]

I have a small MPPT that can handle one panel's current. Might work well on a small kiddies boat. A typical PWM charge controller only reduces the voltage but does not step up the current to keep power out equal to power in. I am busy working on a buck converter that can do that. All power electronics have their own losses, so the cheapest option is actually to just add another panel. The additional available current should be enough to keep the panels, the motor and the prop at their respective max efficiencies.

[@trevortrevortsr2]

@@williamfraser If you put a voltmeter on your panels and a cheap PWM controller from the panels you can adjust the throttle till you bring down the panel open circuit voltage to its MPP - It works we know we used it on our solar car at Silverstone & won the Shell car with the simple expedient of sticking a pointer on an analog voltmeter at the MPP voltage and adjusting the controllers till the arrows meet - we used the same principle on our canoe RA - Its the voltage going to motor that dictates its speed - it will draw as much current as it can to try and achieve that speed and if it cant will pull down the voltage - PWM controller is a variable buck converter with a few caps to smooth out the surges on the input - the motors inductance should smooth the outlet - honest try it with old style voltmeter and cheap ebay 20a controller

[@demonetizedhistory5806]

This is so fricking cool. U my new smartest SA KZbinr.

[@GateKommand]

Sounds like a torpedo on a WW2 film! I am well impressed though mate!!

[@williamfraser]

Thanks. My brushless motor is much less noisy, just a pity my microphone died during the tests. Still too loud though, gears contribute a lot to the noise. Working on silent magnetic gears, hermetically sealed.

[@pieterdeliho1492]

Wow you really save your time paddling

[@AlanStraton]

Hi William - your video should be required viewing for anyone looking to install Solar Panels on their roof - not many people are aware of the Weakest Link with regards to shade on Solar Panel Strings and just how that will impact the production over 20 or so years. There are solutions but not for this space...

[@joeblow3946]

Each panel needs to be fitted with diodes to eliminate resistance caused by a less performing panel. And yes, a decent little deep cycle battery like lipo.

[@codewalters]

Looks cool ! And an advantage of being out on a sunny day.

[@kkulikov]

Cool idea! So two aspects I want to add, the first is you can add a small accumulator to have the power under bridges, the second is would be interesting if it could work with hydrofoils (I think it needs more power but it could be comfortable with big waves).

[@williamfraser]

With my weight and that of two large panels, 600W might be enough to fly on foils. It will require a foil of at least 10ft span. The large foil will allow low lift-off speed but will severely limit top speed. Some lightweight flexi panels of equal power will really open up performance options.

[@craiggilchrist4223]

Why not have the panels top up a battery and have the battery power the motors, you will have no drop outs then rather than running direct from the panels? Or you could use some super caps.

[@williamfraser]

I was optimising the system for solar boat racing where batteries are not allowed. No restrictions on supercaps, I have tested some in the shop but I will need much higher capacities to be of any use.

[@InfinionExperiments]

​@@williamfraser If you're going to grab supercaps you can get a 16.2V module for about $100. www.aliexpress.com/item/33048199215.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.c1204c4dM1CWNA I bought and did some testing on the self-discharge and capacitance for about 10 days, check my review for the condensed tables and graphs. You get about 81% of the advertised capacity which is very good for Chinese products known for inflating specs. If you're going to get this for your 150W solar boat it would be wise to either make a 9-cell module to support the 24V open-circuit voltage of your solar cells, use them in a solar charge controller, or upgrade the attached balance circuits to bleed off the 150W. As it stands, the balance circuit on these can only manage about 2W per cell, so when the motor is not in use the solar will destroy the supercaps.

[@gk780]

it is a good concept. you can add more solar panels with bigger support on left and right sides.

[@Tore_Lund]

Running the motor directly from the panels is brutal. You are missing out of a lot output from the panels! You don't necessarily need mppt, as you load is constant, but you need a motor controller so you can load the panels at a level that produces most power, the highest speed. which will be when the panels are at their rated load voltage. I'm sure your voltage reading is correct, you are simply forcing your panels into the ground, losing 3/4 of your solar power. Also a sizable electrolytic capacitor near the motor, will help a little and produce stable voltage readings, if that is a problem. A brushed motor produces electrical noise in the wiring. A reverse diode across the motor terminals to recover back EMF, reduces noise further but prevents you from reversing thrust.

[@williamfraser]

I was losing some power, but not that much. The motor was revving pretty high despite being loaded, so voltage could not have dropped by that much below MPP. The key was in selecting a propeller size that would load the motor to its maximum efficiency rpm while drawing just enough current to also load the panels to their max power. With the sun at an angle the maximum panel power would have been around 130W. When calculating backwards from the propulsive power required by the boat at that speed, taking into account prop efficiency as well, I must have been getting around 110W from the panels. I had no trouble getting voltage readings while testing the motor in a bucket, so noise could not have been the issue. I most likely just hooked up the meter to the wrong wires. I am building my next solar boat now with all the bells and whistles: brushless motor, mppt, smart panels, efficient hull. Next race is 7 Dec....

[@fallingshells6856]

Your voltage drop is caused by a current surge. The motor draws the current but is a low resistance path, which aliviates the pressure the panels are producing to drive the current. You're getting the same power, there just isn't enough resistance to be able to measure the potential energy. It just all turns into mechanical. Also, with panels wired in parallel, if you reduce the voltage coming from one panel (shade), the other two panels will dump a reverse current into it. A diode on each panel would fix this, wiring in series would not. In series, the panels will produce a higher overall voltage, but shouldn't be able to supply the current to your low resistance motor due to the high internal resistance in the panels. The people commenting on the prop are right as well, you need a three or four blade hydro-prop as that air prop is probably flexing to nearly flat and letting water slide past. This would provide a higher resistance out of the motor, reducing your current and letting you read voltage if you wanted. Right now, you're just running amps through windings not meant for them, if it's a brushed motor. If it's brushless, then the energy is moving the same way and tearing up the semiconductors in the speed controller. Overall, a proper propeller and some diodes, possible a battery as well, will make it a ton more efficent. That's an engineer's advice at least.

[@gustavoromero5782]

Where is possible to buy it? Is awesome!! 👌

[@asommer518]

Interesting that you're using a model airplane propeller rather than a propeller design for water I would imagine that the efficiency is way off because of that

[@Yankeeprepperasshat]

I totally agree. These props are designed for specific mediums. Air and water act very differently. Beyond that even, you should really look for one that’s tuned for the rpm range you expect to get. And that can change drastically when switching props. Do you will most likely have to make a guess, but an underwater prop, then realize the rpms are off, and then buy another one

[@ForkinCrazy]

Exactly what I was thinking. A model boat prop or one for a trolling motor would be better. Also a direct drive brushless motor would be more efficient. Pretty cool though!

[@williamfraser]

To get good propeller efficiency you need a large diameter. Conventional boat props of sufficient diameter have way too much blade area and are designed with much higher available shaft torque in mind. With sufficient gear reduction it should be possible to run a boat prop on my limited power. The brushed motor is only efficient at high rpm (>15k) and its gearbox has a 9:1 reduction. Even so the torque required by the slender apc prop is a little too much and loads the motor beyond its peak efficiency.

[@Midnight17925]

@@williamfraser indeed but what about slightly smaller scale 3d printed ?

[@williamfraser]

@@Midnight17925 What I REALLY want to get printed is a custom surface drive prop!

[@colloidalsilverwater15ppm88]

take panels above your body, in that case you have the shade. Second, I suggest that motors have to be mounted in front of kayak, and if you make that they could rotate, steering with them is possible.

[@SiMahDan]

if u add a battery, the voltage to the motors will b constant

[@leodanryan966]

Why not mitigate the shade issue with a backup battery?

[@touchedbynature5445]

Wow, That's Amazing. Brilliant Thinking. Many thanks for sharing. 🇬🇧

[@john_p]

need a battery in the loop to buffer and help with bridges etc

[@pavelzozulya8979]

Или конденсатор.

[@codewalters]

Greetings from India. Love the project !!!thanks for sharing !

[@kevsthings8328]

If you have not already, you should add bypass diodes, so that when one panel is in shade it does not drain current from the panels that still have sunlight. This reverse current through the shadowed panel can also cause damage by overheating.

[@williamfraser]

These panels do have bypass diodes, but they only work for series connected panels. Blocking diodes would help for parallel connected panels though. Blocking diodes are forward biased under normal operation which unfortunately means that they continuously dissipate power on all un-shaded panels.

[@kevsthings8328]

@@williamfraser I believe there are things called smart diodes that solve some of the issues with blocking diodes. Don't know all the details.

[@williamfraser]

@@kevsthings8328 thanks for the tip. Just looked it up, what a fantastic component. I can think of many other uses for such a low voltage drop diode.

[@thomasraywood679]

Definitely put the rigger in outrigger. Somehow love the idea but hate the inelegance, and especially hate that whine. I do see the market though for paras and quads. The idea of a disabled vet being able to kayak appeals to me strongly.

[@pakde8002]

Hope you keep working in this project. Please share as much technical information as possible.

[@joatmofa0405]

Looks like Swartkops? I ABSOLUTELY love your idea - how about a 400W PV Panel & 48V/100Ah LiFePO4 Battery & 48V trolling motor? Should last more than a few days?

[@williamfraser]

Yes, Swartkops. If you continously monitor power availability, power consumed and battery capacity you could run a setup like that 24-7.

[@joatmofa0405]

@@williamfraser I assume you are from PE? After looking for a 48V trolling motor - I realized that I should be looking for hen's teeth rather. A 12V motor could work - reducing battery voltage 48V-->12V & 12/48=25% therefore 100Ahx4=400Ah?; A 400W PV panel weighs about 23kg but an array of mounting options are available - one can be creative; A 100Ah 48V (15S) LifePO4 will weigh less than 30kg and store 3.65Vx15Sx100Ah= 5.475kWh with a usable 4.3kWh (80% DoD of 5.475kWh). If one has the current this motor will use you can estimate the operating time in hours (without and with charging from PV panel).

[@williamfraser]

@@joatmofa0405 Yes I live in Bluewater Bay, just a short walk from the estuary. 12V is the most common for trolling motors, which means you are looking at a 30A+ system (charge controllers etc.) if you want to make full use of the 400W. Version 2 of my kayak used a 300W panel at 31V. At 300W input, the brushless motor max efficiency voltage is 27V. I used an MPPT rated for 40A (although 20A would have been safe) and sized the prop to pull the voltage down accordingly.

[@macrumpton]

I imagine a little rubber on the attachment points for the motor would reduce the surprisingly loud motor noise.

[@williamfraser]

Absolutely. I was able to compare the noise levels in the workshop, with and without the mount clamped to a table. A wooden hull makes a very good soundbox!

[@briankarlsen6676]

have you concidered filling the motor tube with minral oil to dissipate the heat to the tube and in turn the water

[@williamfraser]

I suspect the increase in friction combined with high motor rpm will consume too much additional power to make it worthwhile. Might be worth a test with an old motor just to satisfy curiosity...

[@黃榮輝-h1m]

Great idea

[@КАНАЛГАРМОНИИ]

RU: Надо добавить аккумулятор в схему для стабилизации питания и предохранители для защиты от замыкания.

[@insertname5057]

Does anyone have any advice regarding what happens if the solar panels become submerged in a roll over. Im about to get some solar gear to fix to my kayak to charge a battery for my phone, cameras etc. Obviously the batteries and controllers will be in a waterproof box but was just wondering about damage to the panels. Are the normal aluminium backed, glass front panels ok in the case of a submersion?

[@williamfraser]

I doubt you have to worry about the actual pv cells, the junction box where the leads come out will most likely be the weak point with regards to sealing. My 300W Jinko panel's junction enclosure is rated IP65, so it can withstand water sprayed from a nozzle but should not be submerged permanently. During last year's race a boat capsized and was good to go again for a second capsize.

[@MasboyRC]

This is briliant idea, and you're a genius guy dude. 👍

[@LemonTreeNOTfree]

Excellent, what I wanted

[@wildfire8341]

That's a nice idea.. what type of motor William ?

[@williamfraser]

Ryobi cordless drill. Actually, it was am impact wrench, with the hex chuck, it has a lightly larger motor than the two-speed drill. The motor size is the 775. There is a link in the description of how I assembled the drive-train.

[@wildfire8341]

Description: Three-phase brushless motor. Insulation and corrosion resistance. Nylon propeller 4 leaves. Application: Ship model accessories, underwater robot, remote boat model. Specification: Product Name: Brushless Motor Underwater Propeller Color: Green Motor Material: 304 Stainless Steel Bearing + Aluminum Alloy Housing: PLA Nylon Propeller Specifications: Positive Propeller / Anti-propeller Propeller Voltage: 12V-24V Current: 17A Power: 100W-300W Motor: 1450KV Product Size: 75*62*62mm Cable Length: 250mm Note: This propeller must be equipped with a brushless motor driver to operate normally. With a brushless motor, it can be forward and reverse. It needs to be equipped with an electronic speed controller. It must be at least 30A above. It is strictly forbidden to connect directly to the battery. Note: 1. Please allow 1-5mm slight deviation of measurement due to manual measurement. 2. Due to the difference between different monitors, the picture may not reflect the actual color of the item. Thank you! Package Included: 1 X Brushless Motor Underwater Propeller

[@odziesolarne6407]

Congratulations. We're sailing in a sunny flotilla. George. Poland

[@williamfraser]

Thanks. I had a look at your solar boat, it looks like a really nice setup! What speed do you get in full sun?

[@MrFreddiew1]

Maximum speed at the suns highest point....Nice project.

[@ВадимИльченко-е7д]

Why you not use li polimer accumulator?

[@williamfraser]

I have one now. At the time I was designing for a solar race where no batteries were allowed.

[@pieterdeliho1492]

Why don't you out 2 motors?

[@williamfraser]

The motor was chosen to match the power available from the panels. By dividing the power between multiple motors, the motors themselves would not be operating at their maximum efficiency at the panel voltage. Additional power electronics would be required to step down the voltage for maximum motor efficiency.

[@pieterdeliho1492]

@@williamfraser oo got it

[@josephpang7280]

Did you really feel the difference with or without the solar panels? Because the solar panels have weights which I guess you added 45 lbs extra onto the kayak. So is the boosted solar panels justified to carry that extra weights??? I just installed two solar panels on my kayak which are 30 lbs extra. I did not feel much improved performance. Just a bit improvement only although the panel shaded me from the sun...... I like to hear your response. Thanks much. Nice video.....

[@williamfraser]

Thanks. My performance depended entirely on the panels since I did not use a battery. If used with a battery, the panels will improve range. To get more power you will need to incease voltage to the motor.

[@josephpang7280]

William Fraser is it true that the solar panels act as resistors draw current from the battery while running the trolling motor. So disconnect the solar panels when running and let just the batteries power the running trolling motor as normally done. Use the solar panels charge batteries when motor not used??? Need to know if you agree. Also you can use 20 volts from solar panels providing 10A to run trolling motor at lowest speed without batteries???? Like you to clarify. Awaiting response. Many thanks.

[@williamfraser]

@@josephpang7280 when solar is used with a battery, the panel voltage is higher than the battery's. A charge controller prevents reverse current from battery through panel when the panel does not get enough light. Use them simultaneously, this will reduce the current required from the battery and prolong its life. When you stop or reduce power sufficiently, the panels will automatically charge the battery.

[@shariftarique7101]

Very good achievement of yours!

[@infoandroid6792]

I mean this motters not working dairect to Soler energy , I asking to you , you using any battery packs?

[@williamfraser]

No, no batteries. I will add some later.

[@infoandroid6792]

Know it's dairect ?

[@infoandroid6792]

Y you not try one dainamo ? 🤔

[@GuthrieDennis]

Why not have the solar charge a small battery pack?

[@williamfraser]

This setup gets used in a solar boat race where batteries are not allowed.

[@Dafoxx-1]

Neat work, would you not get more speed from it using a dule ended inclosed impeller?

[@williamfraser]

Not sure what you mean by dual enclosed, but a shroud around the prop would improve efficiency. Even better would be a higher gear reduction ratio and a larger prop.

[@Dafoxx-1]

@@williamfraser a impeller on each end of the motor shaft, should try adding more blades to the prop as well, not sure if a Corkscrew type prop would be any better (like what some small scail hydropower station uses), if you have a 3D printer accessible might be interesting. also if you add a capacitor to keep some power stored to get you under those bridges.

[@williamfraser]

I see what you mean now. No, in-line impellers will be detrimental in this application. They will create a concentrated high speed "jet stream" wake. All that velocity is wasted energy. Higher efficiency requires exactly the opposite, scooping a large volume of water and pushing it backwards slowly. Regarding the capacitors, I have tested some small supercaps in the workshop (4x 4F in series, so 1F total) but it was not enough to even get the motor turning. I will need much higher capacities to be useful.

[@southafrica6248]

Have you been to South Africa 🇿🇦

[@romicharon]

Good job 😁 👍

[@normb28]

Should add a small AGM deep cycle battery may be a 35ah it would stay charge and not have shade problem

[@joeljesus8577]

Interessante. Mas o salito do mar não danifica?

[@williamfraser]

O gabinete finalmente vazou e destruiu o motor.

[@joeljesus8577]

@@williamfraser Parabéns pelo projeto. Que Deus te abençoe e você aperfeiçoe mais e mais

[@emelen123jamesula2]

No batteries? Can you have larger motors?

[@williamfraser]

No battery. I used a larger motor when I switched to brushless. You can see it being dyno tested in a more recent video. It pushed me past 6kts with a 300W panel.

[@williespoonemore3392]

I've actually thought about rigging solar and small windmill power to my canoe !

[@williamfraser]

Do you know of Project Windvinder? A simple windmill turning an underwater prop. It can "motor" straight into a headwind.

[@benpar8120]

Try positioning the panels at an angle facing the sun

[@williamfraser]

Thanks for the reply Ben. I have added a tilting feature to the new 300W panel. It works well. It also makes mounting the panel quick and easy.

[@carlschmiedeke151]

Think it would get me to the Philippines

[@hrcreations103]

Great Initiative.What will happen !!! If one big sark infront of the boat.

[@Особенный-я3ж]

Хорошая идея с передвижением по воде!

[@staslabs]

Why no shield for propeller?

[@williamfraser]

I might use a duct on a future design.

[@petereaton6740]

Very nice👍 i was just passing and spotted this good work👍

[@OsantosBarboza]

*_Adicione um banco de capacitores para manter os motores funcionando durante um tempo, enquanto estiver na sombra._*

[@paulbizard3493]

Great. A little battery would be nice.

[@SimonStuff2000]

1:02 that " - " appears because u connected the + at the - and vice versa.

[@grimsadventures-bikesnpetr7913]

I love shit like this, very cool and you've travelled, a long distance

[@williamfraser]

Glad you enjoyed it. The new motor and panel should provide significantly better performance. Just waiting for the gale to blow over and I can get back to testing.

[@GaryMcKinnonUFO]

Very cool indeed! Surprising how sensitive it is, just the shadow of your hand on the corner of the panel. Are they brushless motors driving the props?

[@williamfraser]

This project still used a brushed drill motor. There should be a link in the description for the more recent version with brushless motor and large panel.

[@GaryMcKinnonUFO]

@@williamfraser Thanks i found that just after i commented here, really interesting stuff you're doing.

[@Serov_Andrew]

What is weight of the boat with driver?

[@williamfraser]

150kg.

[@thomabb]

Your voltage is pulling all the way down because voltage is potential. You are using all the power from the array. Amps are what is turning your motor over.

[@marianomanaus]

Que ideia fantástica, na minha região seria ótimo!

[@kevintyrer45]

Nice one William

[@cevdetisler9005]

very nice :)..salt water(on the sea) can problem for solar panel? corrasion?

[@williamfraser]

Thanks. The panels are sealed reasonably well. The only weak point in the sealing of these cheap panels is where the cable comes out of the junction box. We race in an estuary, so salt water, everything needs proper insulation.

[@Harlanmote]

Use a prop made for a trolling motor. It’s more efficient in water. Or better yet just use a 12v Trolling motor and prop setup. Nice build 👍.

[@williamfraser]

It is counter intuitive, but the opposite is true. I first got the idea from someone who deliberately replaced his trolling motor's prop with an APC 10x6E. He achieved better top speed and did so with less power. Trolling props are thick brutes, designed to pull heavy boats at slow speed and survive all kinds of underwater impact and weeds.

[@muriloMesko]

Very cool Brown

[@tangomike15]

Is this the Vaal dam?

[@williamfraser]

Swartkops estuary, just outside PE.

[@tangomike15]

William Fraser lekker

[@alexwendell8285]

Congrats from brazil. Best regards my friend. Excelent Project go forward.

[@JMEMantzel]

Aw, cool! I'm just finishing a solar boat, too. :-) Someone linked me to the hackaday article. Good stuff.

[@MrTrevorkemp]

I would say it would be a good idea to put a battery in the system granted running off a battery isn't going to give you the type of power in speed running directly off the solar panels would but as long as you get a charge ensure that is rated for the output of your panels or higher of plucky 200 W charge controller that would definitely help plus you could still wireless system to where you have diodes between the motor and the battery so that way you could jump across to the Battery altogether and get the speed of just running off of the solar panels when you're in direct sunlight but when you go under bridges and stuff or it becomes shady you have the battery there to give you that extra boost and more consistent power output and at least keep you at 1.8 knots or better even when going under bridges or in shaded areas or maybe even just have a battery on board that you can hook up or have a switch that all you have to do is foot that switch and it would connect the battery into the system but I would be careful about leaving that switch on when the motor is not on if you don't have a charge controller cause it will definitely destroy the battery And this is a cool little project but I would definitely use a battery even just a small one for some redundancy I would probably get a 30 5:00 a.m. hour battery and use it in this system just so that way you have enough backup power on board to have an hour of use say if something happens like the wearing girl's bed for your panels or something falls in doesn't cause you to sync but damages all 3 of your panels so that way you're not just sitting there dead in the water because it doesn't look like you have a paddle with you either.

[@jakesgrobler1634]

I think you need an equalizer - (when one panel gets shaded, it limits all the others).

[@chocachips]

What do you mean an equaliser. Caps or batteries?

[@elcajondavid1]

I am ready for the canoe solar powered drag races!

[@talaatenan7241]

Can you burn solar panels as glass?

[@williamfraser]

Please clarify your question.

[@valsodar6723]

Try add some capacitor or battery to smooth Power output and lifespan of panels.