Solo Climbing Grossglockner in a Day

Solo climbing Austria's highest mountain Grossglockner via the normal route.
I woke up at 4 o'clock in the Lucknerhaus parking and started my hike towards the Erzherzog Johann Hütte.
In the distance, I saw hoards of climbers heading towards the Studlgrat ridge, but lucky for me the normal route was almost completely empty which was a huge surprise considering the nice weather and good conditions.
The day passed by really quickly and I was back at the car before lunch :) Looking forward to do a winter ascent this winter.
DISCLAIMER:
Do NOT try to recreate anything you see in my videos.
I sometimes make dangerous things look like fun and games, but keep in mind I’m a trained professional with years of experience in Alpinism.
I may give a few tips every now and then, but I am NOT qualified to teach.
This video is for entertainment purposes only!
You can support my work for 1$ or more on Patreon:
patreon.com/user?u=111650910
#climbing #mountains #gopro

[@marathonmartin]

Hey Andraz! Finally Found your video. Nice to meet you and thanks for your company on the way down :) Cheers from Innsbruck, Martin

[@andrazegart]

Ohh heyy! I was also searching for your channel, but couldn’t find it until now. I just watched your POV from Grossglockner, and it’s really cool to see myself from a totally different perspective that I’m used to haha. Nice to meet you too, and thanks for teaching me your card game 😀 Greetings!

[@nenol10]

Martin was like a body double for this video, same colour of jacket, same colour of helmet and same shoes. 😀

[@andrazegart]

Hahaha we even had the same crampons 😂.

[@gasperpancur8142]

I know right, i saw them that day on the mountain and thought they were climbing together :)

[@suzuki5051]

ahaha but not the same skill :D

[@marathonmartin]

Hey that‘s me 😂😂

[@peterkainz3554]

Hi, thanks for your nice video! You’re an excellent alpinist!👍🍀

[@julesbroglin3489]

Great video, so beautiful !!

[@andrazegart]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@homayoonmiar]

great route , would love to climb it someday.

[@maximusmister15]

Thanks for showing great footage of ascent and descent. I would love to climb it.

[@andrazegart]

Thank you! If you have the experience, you should!

[@janplexy]

I have never seen Grossglockner this dry!!

[@Polarbear00713]

Such a perfect video.

[@andrazegart]

Very much appreciated, brother!

[@jeffrey1025]

Andraz, your videos inspire. Stay safe ✌️

[@andrazegart]

Thanks brother, you too! 🙏

[@asakusforest]

amazing video as always🔥

[@andrazegart]

Appreciate it brother!

[@pascallevasseur7290]

Salut encore une très belle vidéo je te suis sa fait du bien de voir tes vidéos on voyage ❤❤❤❤

[@andrazegart]

Thank you! Safe travels 🙌

[@miloschjovanovic]

Svaka čast!!

[@andrazegart]

Hvala 🙏

[@MD.79]

GroßGlocker is in my “solo list” as the highest peak of Austria… and for sure there’s also “your” Triglav… next summer if God wills! Greetings from Friuli and good mountain! Keep it up prijatelj 🤙

[@andrazegart]

Thank you! 😊 I wish you good conditions and nice weather on your climbs 🙌 saluti amico!

[@selvymarojevic9129]

Bravo care.Moj poklon tebi.Srečno na vseh poteh💯👍

[@andrazegart]

Hvala! Srečno in varno tudi tebi!

[@elpuntitopark]

The champ is back at it again! Can't be stopped! Stay safe man!

[@andrazegart]

Haha thank you brother! Greetings.

[@soaringblackbird4431]

Čestitke, kvaliteten video.

[@andrazegart]

Hvalaa :)

[@davidvig]

Quality content az usual. Keep up the good work!

[@andrazegart]

Thank you very much 🙏

[@nadinem.1382]

I really enjoy your videos. Thank you 🙂

[@andrazegart]

I really appreciate that :)

[@epincion]

Thanks Andraž. Great to see the climb up in sunshine. Personally I hate glacier crossings - cold ++ and crampons are very uncomfortable!

[@andrazegart]

Thank you! It’s true, they are cold, but the views are nice 😀.

[@colter779]

Such crazy content that you upload so often! Very well made and such incredible adventures! One of my fav channels. When did you do this climb? Also which backpack is that? I recently got the blue ice Kume and am excited to use it for next touring season!

[@andrazegart]

Thank you brother! I can't thank you enough for all the support. Comments like this motivate me to try my best and keep doing this as long as people enjoy watching it :) My backpack is Blue Ice Dragonfly 25. So far I'm very happy with it. I hope yours serves you just as well!

[@Ludderr]

Camera angle makes everything look sketchy. Great video as always!

[@andrazegart]

Thank you 🙌

[@Jonne337]

very nice Video! keep up the good work

[@andrazegart]

Thank you very much!

[@Biboa_outdoor.hiking]

Congratulation, ⛰👍

[@andrazegart]

Thanks 🙏

[@vagabondcaleb8915]

SO BADASS! Sick lines! Those flat rocks look so menacing and sharp. Feels like somewhere a dragon would live. Are the crampons slippery on rock, or do you get good hold with them? Sorry if it's dumb question, I thought they were more for ice. Thanks for sharing! So cool!

[@andrazegart]

Hahah yeah I was thinking the same thing about the dragons 🤣. It’s kind of awkward climbing with crampons on dry rock. But if the rock is wet or icy, then it’s way safer to use crampons. In this case the rock was 95% dry, so I decided to put them off.

[@adampokryszka4344]

When walking along the Kleinlockner ridge, it is better to take off your crampons. after leaving the glacier and after the first "chimney" on the ridge, it is better to take off your crampons. In summer there is practically no snow or ice on this ridge and the traction is better in shoes. snow and ice may appear only on the pass between the Glockners. crayfish slide on this rock and it's more dangerous.

[@michaelschmid6430]

I remember this spots from the 80s. So sad seeing this bit of glacier now....

[@Multi12345123456]

not gonna lie seeing the way martin moved on the rock with those crampons was super sketchy for me at some moments. It seemed like a much safer move to have them off on the descent in that top rocky area.

[@andrazegart]

Yeah, 99% of the ridge was better without crampons. But there was a short 10 meter section in the shade where it was quite icy, so if there weren’t cables there I would have to put the crampons back on.

[@robocop-panda]

Bravo.

[@andrazegart]

Hvala :)

[@robocop-panda]

Eno vprašanje. Ali mogoče delaš kakšne izpite za vodnika ali kaj podobnega ?@@andrazegart

[@darkentey]

angle of camera on ridge makes everything look so terrifying xD

[@AP-el2if]

Zgadzam sie z Panem w pełni, dorzuciłbym jeszcze sporo do zrealizowania w te 30 dni :)

[@TrailRunnerCroatia]

Nice view at the end. Ja sam se tek sad sjetio subscribe-at. 🤪

[@andrazegart]

Thank you very much! 🙌

[@ivangechev4243]

I have climbed this peak it's the highest I have ever been, but I was with a guide ;)

[@andrazegart]

Congrats on the ascent! 😊 I hope you had a nice experience :)

[@ivangechev4243]

@@andrazegart Sure! I was on the top at my birthday, so It's something to remember for sure :)

[@gergonovak1039]

How long was the whole climb back there? Looks really fast! Last year it got dark on the way down, so we must have been slower than you. :) It was maybe 14-15 hours for us with a lot of video, droning, eating in the house, etc.

[@inthaheuse]

Mas pa kr med nogm, da se gres takle. Svaka cast 💪

[@andrazegart]

Hahah hvala :)

[@aron7548]

climbed it a couple of times but never seen it so dry

[@andysfdf7341]

a senior friend of mine said last year in august it was the first time it was completley without snow

[@brampinxten3674]

We climbed it on September 11th via Stüdlgrat and there was nowhere ice or snow to be found. Perfect day, weather wise, but it means climate is changing.

[@ClimbingOntario]

What an awesome adventure! Thanks for taking us all along. Im curious what are the steepest grades of that climb? And are crampons better than grippy rubber hiking boots on the dry rock?

[@andrazegart]

Thank you. Much appreciated! On dry rock, rubber boots are way better than crampons. But if the rock was icy or wet, then crampons are the way to go! Route info - PD+ ( II / 40°)

[@jonny1903]

if the glacier was wet or visability was low would you still climb?

[@aron7548]

nice

[@andrazegart]

🙏

[@miky9757]

I will go to the peak next week

[@andrazegart]

Good luck. I hope you have nice weather!

[@miky9757]

​@@andrazegartthank You, unfortunatly i think there is the First snow that days

[@miky9757]

A info, You take the 712/A from Lucknerhutte?

[@jadu-entertainment]

Hi there! Great video as always! One thing I've been wondering is how do you navigate the glacier solo? You mentioned it was the second time you climbed this mountain, so how would you know how to navigate the glacier?

[@andrazegart]

Hey, Thank you! Well it’s a super small glacier, and since I already climbed Grossglockner once, it wasn’t hard to remember the route :) I also always have all my routes pre-marked and downloaded on Strava, so even without signal I can find a way if I ever get lost :)

[@SuperMotown50]

The glacier is incredibly ugly with stones. I just saw another video and it is white and flat . Anyway this mountain is beautiful under the blue sky and easy, except the rocky ridge going to the summit. The Swiss guys would have put cables and ropes to secure the last part to the summit. But here we are in Austria. 😊

[@SuperMotown50]

J'aime bien quand les alpinistes filment la descente, souvent la partie la plus dangereuse, belle course en solo, mais quelques cordes en plus auraient facilité la descente sous le sommet. 😊

[@andrazegart]

In my opinion the summit must be earned, and if they make it super easy with all the cables and ropes it just becomes crowded and trashed. Just look at how they’ve ruined Everest…

[@andrazegart]

@@SuperMotown50 I’m sorry but I do not unferstand what you wrote in your language.

[@SuperMotown50]

@@andrazegart which comment ? The French or the English one ? I wrote 2 comments. 😊

[@andrazegart]

@@SuperMotown50 the french one 😅

[@Shinoku911]

Hello, how would you rate climbing Studlgrat compared to normal route, do you have any exp with that or any friends of yours ?

[@ONCEuponAtime999]

i felt sorry for those crampons..why didnt you climb via Studlgrat ridge?

[@andrazegart]

I don’t like soloing routes I haven’t climbed with a partner before. But I plan to do it this year.

[@rafaelmel3524]

Vrhunski video, kot vedno 👍🏻 zanima me samo, kateri nastavek imas na celadi za go pro, ko plezas?

[@andrazegart]

Hvala! Na roki imam wrist strap, na celado pa velikrat dam en tak navadn raven podalsek (15cm). Vse sm dubu v enem kompletu s kitajske :)

[@VolksPole]

I assume you climbed the GG a week ago, as the weather on your vid is quite clear. :)

[@VolksPole]

And how did you spend the night before climbing? Camping? Car? Hotel?

[@andrazegart]

Yup, on the 20th September. I slept in my car on the Lucknerhaus parking :)

[@42_xdt]

@@andrazegart how safe was the entire experience? sleeping in the parking lot, going alone etc..

[@garethcarroll1588]

Hi i have been planning this hike for a while as i want the challenge as i am for everest base camp in oct 2025 have you a copy of your route i could use starting point be great and how long up and back thanks.

[@andrazegart]

Hey, Nice to hear that! Although this is not a hike, but rather a climb, so be careful what you get yourself into. I’ve got the activity on my Strava, so if you search my name on there you should find all the details :)

[@mchl_m]

So it is possible to climb this mountain without rope? 😮

[@andrazegart]

If you’re experienced enough then yes :)

[@ilvonful]

Why risk crossing the glacier when you're solo and not go around it?

[@andrazegart]

This glacier is safe to cross if you follow the path. Even the guides with clients cross it unroped.

[@darkgift06]

but why the crampons for so long on dry ground?

[@andrazegart]

I asked myself the same question 🤣. I could definitely take them off already at the start, but I expected atleast a bit of snow/ice from the previous day.

[@prnstach4592]

Hey what’s your crampon? Camp alpinist tech? Just by curiosity

[@andrazegart]

Petzl lynx :)

[@781mm]

zanimivo skala cist drugacna k v slovenskih alpah al se motm??? Kolk se ti zdi teska pot do vrha? Se spomnm k sm sou na Kanin 15 let nazaj ni blo nobenih klinov pa vrvi pac kr prosto plezanje sm se obrnu 20m pod vrhom k je prsu oblak posral se ziv in reku nimam zene niti otroka gremo domov 😂

[@andrazegart]

Jap, to je pa granit. Top skala za plezat! Meni se pot ni zdela tezka, ampak to je zlo razlicno od posameznika in njegovih izkusenj. Kdor nima par let izkusenj z alpinizmom nima tle gor kaj iskat. Hahah prav si naredu. Bolje obrnit ce ni vredu vreme. Hrib vedno pocaka :)

[@781mm]

@@andrazegart Obrnu sm ne sam zard vreme ampak misli v glavi. Se dons se spomnm vsega pac okamenel dobr da sm dol prsu ker sm bil prvic v pravih gorah pac mat pa brezglavo hotla do vrha. Zdej sm gledu so dal kline zajle pac lahko se prims kam takrat je blo vse balkansko. Kdaj gres na Matterhorn al pa Eigar?? Sprasujm ker uzivam ob tvojem plezanju pac zelja je v men sam srce mi orav da grem raj do tm k je zelenje 😭

[@TG-pd3ft]

What a shame that to see that ugly fixed metalwork ruining the purity of the route.

[@andrazegart]

I agree. But I guess it’s easier for the mountain guides to earn money.

[@kozarec1979]

Normal route, so not really climbing, more walking. And also not solo, un-roped maybe. Would be nice if you would be more truthful about your ascents.

[@andrazegart]

Grossglockner - normal route: PD+ (UIAA II / 40°) You call that walking?

[@kozarec1979]

With all the rope, chain and metal rods pulling you did, I call that walking, yes. And certainly not soloing.

[@andrazegart]

@@kozarec1979 "Za vse nas bi bilo najbolje, če bi se več ukvarjali z lastnimi vzponi in manj s tujimi." - Tomaž Humar

[@kozarec1979]

Apart from his quotes, maybe you should start using also his ethics.

[@damirkvajo]

@kozarec1979 - he was climbing alone (mostly) so in my eyes and eyes of all his followers that is a solo. If you don't like it just don't watch it. Instead of being a hater make your own content.

[@adampokryszka4344]

the classic route is not a climb but a walk :) :) the climb would be to Studlegrat. I recommend it because it's a nice, quite exposed route. Besides, it is better without the crampons on the ridge itself because, firstly, they get damaged on this rock, and secondly, they cause more problems than they are good for.