Sony CPD-1304: Diagnosis and repair of this awesome little monitor

This little Sony monitor is a 13" Trinitron computer monitor from 1991. This example has been well used and has faults. Time to diagnose and repair this awesome little monitor and clean it up.
-- Video Links
Sony CPD-1304 Service Manual
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Deoxit D5:
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--- Links
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--- Instructional videos
My video on damage-free chip removal:
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--- Music
Intro music and other tracks by:
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[@peterb2566]

This is a simple fault in these monitors, but you have started completely repair from a different diagnosis. Why do not you start with tension measurement, then the diagnosis would be fast, and you started the diagnosis from the exchange of CRT and capacitors .Who repairs this way? Only a new school :) , People from the old school would never fix this way. Old monitors and TV if you know how it works, it's very simple in the diagnosis. And you do repairs how someone who is just learning to repair . But most importantly ,You have finally fixed this monitor.It's always a good lesson for you . Good job .

[@SleightSoda]

How can people find old school monitor repair guys?

[@ironhead2008]

Helluva clinic on troubleshooting CRT monitors here Adrian. You definitely earned your thumbs up on this one!!!

[@Dee_Just_Dee]

It took me a while to be clued in that this second channel even existed. It's a goldmine. These videos are every bit as much of a joy to watch as the main channel videos. I don't know how Adrian does it. It's awe-inspiring.

[@felippecezar9117]

Now, can you imagine the amount of plastic and metal we discard every day because nobody can be bothered to replace half a dozen caps? I mean, that monitor is still totally usable.

[@Dee_Just_Dee]

And I bet we all have a few stories ourselves. As for me: Before I was anywhere near competent at soldering, I scrapped and replaced a Pentium 4 motherboard just on account of bulging caps and a broken heatsink retainer clip. (I swear, that stupid P4 CPU probably outright _baked_ the caps and clip by frequently running over 70°C under load.) Oh well, not a huge deal... The replacement board was old stock from a local chain store and would probably have ended up going to e-waste anyway. So while a faulty but definitely repairable board ended up going to the scrap heap, an "okay" board was saved from it.

[@crazyedo9979]

They throw it away even when it is working.🙁

[@afkbehr]

this was such a great video. Adrian deserves an award for producing such great content. kept me on the edge of my seat with all the twists and turns!

[@mccrh7737]

Just saying, but I love the format of this second Channel, almost better then the main one :)

[@nathanielbarragan882]

A lot of his earlier videos have the same format.

[@patprop74]

Looks like those CRT's do grow on Adrian's parts tree lol nice save, the next project is to make yourself Mr. Carlson's capacitor leakage tester

[@michaelblair5566]

That would seem to be a very good idea considering how old the caps are in these things.

[@fumthings]

yep, a high voltage, leakage tester is the way to go.

[@randyab9go188]

Get a Sprague Tel-ohm-mike to-5 through to-6a. They will check capacitance and leakage while it's putting the capacitor under its rated voltage up to 450 or 500 volts. I own one and it is a keeper.

[@patprop74]

@@randyab9go188 I take it you never seen Mr. Carlson's Cap tester? the point of his design was to eliminate the hazards of being electrocuted when testing caps hahaha as lovely as the Tel-ohmike are, they are best admired on a shelf hahaha.

[@GoldSrc_]

I was screaming at the screen for you to ground the cathodes when you said you would replace the CRT lol. That is CRT troubleshooting 101.

[@teleozoic]

This is the monitor I had around 1995 that I used with my Mac IIsi. I had gotten the computer as a hand-me-down from my uncle and went and bought the monitor from a Mac-focused computer store in Austin, TX. Occasionally I had problems with the colors dropping out but wiggling the cable or smacking the monitor would always fix it. It had a hand-made cable to connect the DB9 from the monitor to the DB15 on the Mac, which I still have. Wish I still had the monitor but I donated all but one of my CRTs in the 2000s to free up space. Seeing this monitor brought back to life brought tears to my eyes.

[@BersekViking]

From an old repair guy: ALWAYS start by checking the cathode drive signal with an oscilloscope! :)

[@SleightSoda]

How can people find old monitor repair guys?

[@svenjackel2531]

That was not as you said a "little" repair but really a great voyage on your way to the solution. I really apreciate that way of following "wrong" ways and finding out later what was the problem. This is what error tracing and fixing is all about ... and this was just quality time for me :-) thank you!

[@jeromethiel4323]

The Sony multisync monitors were amazeballs when they came out. Up till then if you changed your video card, you usually had to buy a new monitor as well. With the multisync you got a high quality picture tube and the ability to run on a wide variety of video cards.

[@garthhowe297]

Fantastic video. I would love to see a series where you explain each functional block, and how to troubleshoot it.

[@andrebullock7942]

Only in the past week did I retire my CPD 1302, I'd had it since 1990 when I bought it for my 386. A great monitor, its last 20 years were connected to my Amiga 2500 with FlickrFixer.

[@amrkoptan4041]

ohhh... that takes me back... I had this monitor on my IBM 80486 PS/2 in 1993. when i bought my newer PC in 1999 I used the same monitor as it had such beautiful colors, When I had windows 98 installed i could get this monitor to display 800x600 resolution but on a lower refresh rate, I had to get my way through the wacked vertical sync to select the proper settings to get it to work. it brought nice memories....

[@dannye5335]

I was dealing with a 9 inch green monochrome crt that may have had a similar problem. The picture was always very dim and I never figured out why. I might have to go back and visit this one again. Thanks for the great video.

[@dwaynezilla]

This was really good! Glad it was seen to completion. That new tube looks great as well!

[@chadhartsees]

You should do a 'Adrian's Digital Basement Inventory Tour'.

[@Gadgetman1989]

Funny how back before they called them "monitors" they called them "character displays" and nice channeling your inner Drauga1 with the open mobo test

[@CptJistuce]

Monitor as a term for computer displays was common in the early 80s, and this monitor was manufactured in 1991. So monitor as a term for computer displays was a standard before this screen was made. Which really makes the term "character display" interesting, and I wonder how Sony got there. Was it a unique quirk of their product line, or just demonstrating a specific focus? Maybe it differentiated it from composite video monitors or studio TV monitors?

[@Wok_Agenda]

Usually Character displays display characters that are stored in the display's electronics

[@scottlarson1548]

The CRT I used for my first computer in 1977 (which I still have for some reason) came from a CCTV system in which it was called a "monitor".

[@williammckeown4768]

Adrian, your knowledge of electronics, troubleshooting skills, and patience are truly impressive!

[@GoldSrc_]

Meh, he should have grounded the cathodes first. His troubleshooting game is pretty weak, nothing impressive about it. Shango066 has a better troubleshooting game when it comes to CRTs, he can bring back from the dead just about any TV.

[@moshly64]

The writing for the gain / bias is on top because you adjust them looking at the front of the screen with the shield cover on. (In the factory you would have a colour analyser attached). The old CRT is probably good and more likely better spec than the replacement (I would put it back and check & you wont have the geometry issues). Old CRT monitors will always requiter a proper brightness / focus & colour adjustments as the components change value and age. Worn out colour CRTs usually have bad green, they go a pinky/purple colour and also may manifest smearing & focus issues. If you have a later monitor with digital OSD you may find it has no gain / bias trimmers, hold menu and + or similar while powering up and go into the menu, you now should be in the factory menu or have an extra factory menu option (works on a lot of LCD's as well)

[@chloedevereaux1801]

adrian black... the only man ever to try to make a green phospor monitor rgb..... :D

[@iamdarkyoshi]

The reason monochrome monitors are desirable is how sharp they are. The shadow mask/aperture grille and phosphor array on the front of a screen limits how high of a definition can be displayed, and since monochrome monitors don't have them, they produce a stunningly sharp image Yeah I know you're making a funny but just figured I'd throw this out there for those curious why monochrome displays are desirable

[@codfish6845]

I'm so glad I found this second channel! All of this CRT-related content is great, I find them very interesting. Good job, Adrian!

[@mrnmrn1]

Adrian, since you have an LCR meter, I suggest not to swap yokes immediately. Measure the resistance and inductance of the two coils, and if they are close, wire the replacement CRT with its original yoke up to the chassis for testing. With multisync monitors, there's a good chance it won't work properly (but still worth a try), but with TVs it's usually works, if both tubes came from the same vertical refresh rate (50-60/100-120Hz) sets. Swapping the connectors is much easier then doing purity and convergence adjustments, especially on high resolution Trinitron tubes.

[@rickgaine3476]

I bought one of these monitors brand new mini years ago. Paid over $500 for it. It's still in my attic. I couldn't bring myself to throw it away. Last time I checked it's still worked.

[@cocoe68]

Incredible specialist in CRT monitors!!!! I am surprised about your knowledge on different computer areas. Awesome!. Continue sharing your passion to this wide science called.... computer science.

[@warrax111]

Man, so much thank you for these CRT fixes, and knowledge gathering. They would end up in e-waste otherwise. These CRT are more and more rare, I'm glad, there will be knowledge about them, how to save them, or repair them. Thank you, and keep on.

[@saifal-badri]

Why do I get excited every time Adrian works on a CRT 😂

[@tlgeorge59]

I owned and used that exact model of color display in the early 1990s in Fremont, CA.

[@Mack-op1vw]

Do love the troubleshoot journey, good show sir.

[@richardbrobeck2384]

Hello Adrian welcome to the world of Sony! I am currently working on a couple Sony products myself replacing the Electrolytic capacitors. My experience with repairing Sony has been over 30 years.

[@parrottm76262]

Loved every minute of this repair journey.

[@robtaylor2045]

So. Much. Patience! Another great repair Adrian. Great work.

[@buttguy]

So how many of you, like me, were waiting for the end of this video to result in Adrian discovering a “mono/text” green screen mode switch?

[@nickwallette6201]

For at least the first half, yes.

[@johnsonlam]

Awesome fix! You "dood" it again, save one more monitor, hooray! Length is not a problem since diagnose is also fun.

[@chloedevereaux1801]

adrian black isn't sponsored by de oxit...... de oxit is sponsored by adrian black :D

[@ToTheGAMES]

hihihihihi

[@sierraboney1394]

Another nice repair! Having had arcade monitors with similar problems, to be honest, soon as I saw that problem I thought, "that's a neckboard fault, not a crt fault". Thought it'd be either a shorted drive transistor or a missing 200V supply (or 180v in this case), quite a complicated neckboard this one though compared to the arcade monitors (and older computer monitors) I usually work on. The RGB mixing and amplification is usually on the chassis on those, although some of the vga/multisync arcade monitors i've fixed tend to have a similar setup to that Sony in the way that the RGB signal goes straight to the neckboard. In some ways you'd not really expect that many caps to be gone dead or bad (although i've had plenty of low capacity high voltage caps cause me problems!) on a Sony but then it is 30 years old and probably been used for 10's or thousands of hours as you say in the video!

[@CDiepenbroek]

You could have 5 channels and I'd still subscribe! Thanks for another great video! Also, that sticky yellowing is probably people smoking a lot around it. Source: there was a lot of smoking when I grew up.

[@orangeActiondotcom]

I know you're hesitant to replace capacitors, but my experience has been that monitors are run hard and hot. When we service monitors that were in arcade machines (usually left running for 12-18 hours a day for years), it's pretty much a given that we shotgun replace all the electrolytics. It's becoming more common now, but back then we never really thought of replacing caps on the game boards because they really didn't get that hot.

[@GarthBeagle]

I have a Sony CPD-1304S which has a M34JNQ15X tube. Offhand I don't recall the differences between the S and non-S version. It was barely working at all, but did have decent color. I had to recap most of it, so many of those (little) caps on that side video control board were dry 😕 I got it running pretty well for a bit and when I went to show someone how I'd fixed it, it died again - just a nice whine sound, and I haven't dug in again.

[@Denvermorgan2000]

You are getting better and better at fixing these things.

[@Walczyk]

Wow Adrian! You usually don't go for broke like that! I was surprised you didn't test it before doing that remove and replace! Awesome video! I love this stuff. Glad the replacement monitor was way better

[@IEnjoyCreatingVideos]

Great job on getting the CRT working again Adrian! Thanks for sharing the video with us!😎JP

[@dhpbear2]

Adrian, Why did you 'abort' testing the CRT(s) on the CRT checker?

[@FinalBaton]

Great rescue! Now you have an incredibly sharp 13'' PC monitor. Does this multiscan also syncs down to 15kHz? If so, that's extremely useful!

[@danniemortensen597]

I love how you just jump on to The Not always so easy to fix stuff. I am an electronic/it tech myself with 30 years knowledge on my belt. And still i get stuck Sometimes. And to swap a tube! I always trashed them when they Got bad back then. You tend to say “I am No expert, i just love to work with old computers in my basement.” That must be a “mild” understatement. You are good 👍👍. May i ask, What is your everyday job? I dont remember you ever mentioned it ?

I repaired Several Eletric Problems in this CRT. Repair tons, bad times

[@denispgakelly]

Really great video Adrian

[@timcross3461]

Wow, great find. Did you ever find out if it does CGA, EGA and VGA?

[@JulioE1984]

Looking at the service manual, this monitor only does 28-57kHz for horizontal frequency so its too high for CGA/EGA.

[@briangoldberg4439]

@@JulioE1984 yeah, those 90's multiscans were basically just VGA/SVGA/VESA, and that range

[@CptJistuce]

It's analog RGB only, according to the user manual, though the manual contains explicit configurations for the Mac II and IBM 8514 display interfaces(meaning it isn't VGA-only). It looks like it'd be an interesting screen for a lot of non-VGA hardware. Broad range of sync frequencies supported, accepts H/V or composite or green sync, and supports interlaced display modes. Be nice if the HSync could go slower, though...

[@briangoldberg4439]

@@CptJistuce I didn't say it was VGA-only, I said it was "in that range." OP wanted to know if it could sync down to CGA/EGA and the answer is "no."

[@CptJistuce]

@@briangoldberg4439 My apologies. It was not my intention to correct anything, I was merely adding more information.

[@chadhartsees]

That Sony chassis is a thing of beauty.

[@andrewlittleboy8532]

The entire time I was waiting for him to say, “would you look at that, I had the green button pressed in the whole time!”

[@senilyDeluxe]

Now I need to check if all the color CRTs I have that feature a green button also have the picture collapse green when you turn them off... because I guess it'll be white, but honestly I never turned any one of these off with the green button pressed.

[@danilko1]

Actually every green CRT is color with the green button pressed in. Its just a small button on the inside of the monitor. They needed a cheaper monitor so they pressed the button and sold it as green only. We have always had full color displays the whole time... ;-)

[@mrburns366]

​@@danilko1Umm.. no. 😅

[@anthonytidey2005]

At Cifer Terminals in Melksham UK. We had some ladies who set up the registration of our crt's they must have had the patience of Jobe, I worked on the digital side, mainly incircuit programming. You need Mr Carsons capacitor tester it detects high voltage leaks using low voltage technology? Thanks for the video.

[@MrVipeg]

Thank you, Adrian. This video was really incredible! One of those videos i'm was missing about.

[@michaelmullett7327]

Fantastic fix

[@dhpbear2]

With Trinitrons, there's no worry about convergence since it used a single gun. You WILL have to tweak the 'pincushion' and vertical and horizontal size, though.

[@VincentGroenewold]

Ghehe, when you fixed it, the excitement almost sounded real. You saw it already didn't you. ;) Love this stuff!

[@fred-9929]

I learned a lot of things about CRT! Thanks!

[@atkelar]

Awesome! I also have a trinitron - a rather new-ish TV - in my queue here. It's digitally controlled though and complains when turning on. No idea yet if the tube suffered on delivery or if it's some "off" component...

[@SidneyCritic]

I don't think anyone is going to complain about the vid quality, but I would've liked to see the missing last fault bit that wasn't filmed. If you ask me this was interesting enough to put on the main channel as is, ie, vid quality, if it was complete and the external knob review was abbreviated. I think everyone loves fault diagnoses/fixing because it's like a puzzle where we can use our brains. It's like comedy that makes you think, it's funnier because you are included in the same thought process.

[@danielmantione]

It might have been a crapload of work for just that little CRT, but it made a really enjoyable video.

[@danielyazbek9910]

This 2nd channel needs an intro!! Some 8bit party music on background? 😁

[@clifffton]

As an old CRT era tech you make me crazy by NOT hooking your multimeter to the CRT socket pins to check the levels. R, G and B should be pretty close to each other. Also brown 1uf to 4.7uf brown caps are always bad.

[@petesapwell]

I have to agree on this point, would have saved a lot on grief

[@n.h.s.a.d.m.]

I always enjoy your CRT repair videos and this one was great! Thanks!

[@foxyloon]

It looks great for having the CRT swapped! At first I was apprehensive about swapping it out so soon, but the new tube looks to still have a ton of life to it. In the end, I agree that the swap is a worthwhile endeavor. Since your monitor just needs a light touch up of the convergence and geometry, that's already a massive boon for getting this tube properly set up. It means the magnets aren't too far off from where they need to be... Indeed, CRT setup is an art in of itself. You might still be able to find an "old salt" TV repair tech, or a vintage TV repair hobbyist, that can give some pointers. I'd recommend checking out shango066, as he has videos on CRT setups for vintage color TVs that's a very similar procedure for a color monitor.

[@thorpejsf]

Nice work, Adrian. You need to get yourself a Heathkit IT-28! (It's my most prized pieced of test equipment because it can test for leakage!)

[@knight_ki11er]

15:35 Awesome wallpaper 😃

[@darkstatehk]

I'm waiting for a "leapfrog" Trinitron moment. You know, that screen that's real life kinda tech. SONY in their heyday were the kings in their domain. I loved SONY monitors SO MUCH. I remember when I first plugged in my 17" Trinitron in "hi-res" wow! I loved it. Even the smell it gave off was illustrious. Sadly, SONY Trinitron has obviously had its day, and we'll never be able to bask in its former glory.....at least for now :)

[@douro20]

I've had two Trinitron monitors which came off of graphic workstations. They were both analog RGBS displays.

[@shawsplace-876networking5]

Dude awesome video I'm so happy that you got it sorted out rooting for you the whole time awesome

[@AceStrife]

It was really reminding me of a green phosphor display. ..now I kinda want to see the same thing but with both a red and blue problem. They may not be as easy on the eyes as amber or green, but it'd still be cool to see.

[@ImGigantor]

Great time-lapse at 17:42. Pretty fancy for the 2nd channel :-)

[@hal9k2k6]

Hey! I liked your investigations and torment during your repair. I have this exact model monitor in need of repair - I noticed you link to the CPD-1304S Service manual when its a CPD-1304 which i know is close, but turns out the neck board is completely different.. The chip IC501 on mine has no markings on it and is at fault, but in your video i can see yours has a part number on it... Help! can you tell me what it is?? thanks!

[@wimwiddershins]

I had a "burnt out" TV as a monitor for my C64 when I was a kid. That thing would emit a high pitched fizz and the smell of ozone. I had a magnet glued to the side to try and square up the screen. Probably saved my life by looking around inside while it was on and thinking, "nope!" Closed it up again.

[@mikeuk666]

Great work as usual Adrian

[@ForTheBirbs]

Awesome work as ever! Word of the day: "CRAPacitor"

[@Renville80]

You should look at making an universal CRT adapter like one of the Sencore CRT testers has. It is simply a set of EZ hook cables labeled for each element. It might be a good plan when working with CRT monitors to just start off with all the pots at their midrange position. It makes sense that the issue you had with the cathode voltages was higher than normal voltages, as after all, the cathode(s) in any vacuum tube is the source of the electrons that ultimately reach the plate (or screen in the case of CRTs).

[@crazyedo9979]

Awesome that you have a spare crt available. Is your basement like Warehouse 13? 😁

[@douro20]

Trinitron CRTs use those permanent magnets to adjust the colour purity. This would had been done by hand for each CRT.

[@freednighthawk]

If I remember correctly from a video I seem to recall from many years ago, those magnets were applied on a test bench, so swapping yokes wont have an effect requiring them to be reconfigured.

[@MagnumForce51]

@@freednighthawk That's for magnets though. The ones Adrian pointed at are convergence strips. I think those fix flaws in the yoke so he might have to move them since he swapped yokes. But I could be wrong on this. I have swapped yokes on my 13 inch Trinitron TVs and recall having to move the strips around so it's probably the same for the monitor so I worked on this kinda stuff for a little bit. :P Oh and the rubber wedges that keep the yoke aligned might need moving too since the wedges on the newer CRT were setup for the old yoke. He might get lucky and not have to move them. Alignment of yoke has a big impact on corner/edge convergence. ;) If he can't bring it in with just the static convergence adjustments he'll want to take all the convergence strips off, then get the best edge convergence he can via yoke alignment changes (which requires moving the rubber wedges out of the way and resetting them once he gets the best new alignment), then reinstall the strips in new positions to fix the remaining flaws. This is what I did for my TV anyways and got it to a pretty good alignment. The red vertical convergence is still not perfect but it had this issue before I worked on it so it at least I improved upon the flaw it already had. :D Note though that the Trinitron monitors may have adjustable dynamic convergence via electronics (unlike most TVs) which I'm not sure if this monitor has that ability or not. I know the mid 90's they did and used a special serial port on the board that you'd connect to a PC to a serial port and use special software to adjust dynamic convergence (among a lot of other things) so you could reduce the amount of convergence strips you had to use. But judging from the amount of strips I've seen in those two CRTs these monitors probably don't have adjustable dynamic convergence and require more strips to fix the flaws.

[@shodan6401]

If anything, this problem taught you that the first thing you should always address for any CRT that you genuinely wish to preserve, such as the very nice Sony CDP-1304, is to recap the drive/power board, simply as a rule of thumb. And simple MMs do not verify high voltage caps under load. But a recap of high heat, high voltage circuits solve issues 90% of the time. It's likely that the blurry text on the original tube would be rectified with fresh caps. Plumbers have a rule: If there's a leak - even if it's the Cold faucet that's leaking - the leak lies somewhere in the hot water supply. Why would a leaky Cold faucet originate from the Hot supply? It makes no sense. Yet, it happens all the time. Because it's the hot supply that causes all of the wear and stress on the parts within the supply chain. Very rarely will cold water do anything to cause wear or damage within the plumbing. Electronics are obviously much more complex and there are thousands of other potential failure points. However, the most common and most obvious potential for failure always resides in circuits with high heat and high voltage. So, from a diagnosis point of view, if you start by recapping the drive board as a default, you have diagnosed 90% of the potential for failure. Moreover, you have achieved another, perhaps more important goal: the future preservation of the device, for yourself and for others down the line. A board recap solves problems and conserves vintage devices. Win-win. I hope that this is what you took away from this project.

[@MasterControl90original]

hey I've the same desktop wallpaper, that thing is lit!

[@robwebnoid5763]

That taller cap that you speak of near the end... why not just bend it down at 90 degrees (but put small heatshrink tubing on the bent pins to prevent short-circuits), so that it's "laying down" onto the board? Sometimes I do that. I will also sometimes do that to distance the cap a little further away from a near warm source, such as a warm IC, if the original position of the cap standing makes it close to the chip. By trying to lay it down AWAY from the heat source, even if only by a few millimeters, it might help keep the cap cooler since as we know warmth can affect the cap lifespan over a long period of time. But in this case, laying down that cap would both shorten it's height as well as being a little bit farther away from the chip. Of course that will depend if you already cut the cap's leads so that it would just be more convenient to replace with the shorter cap ... otherwise if nothing else, tie longer leads to it so that it can be bent down etc.

[@canadianman000]

"Jumped the gun..." You mean you jumped the blue and red guns :P

[@colinstu]

I don't understand the point of your RGB cable swap? You moved the other connector... into the Green port, so it would be sending red signal data to the green part of the gun..... right? So it's still going to appear as green. What would've been interesting to see is if you just unplugged the green one and left the other two, would it no longer be green at all?

[@MatroxMillennium]

I'm still calling it Adrian's Analog Basement.

[@kaitlyn__L]

Interesting, my grandmother’s Trinitron TV failed in a hugely green biased way too. She was using it all day every day, being retired and all.

[@jitmancanth6698]

Ditto, had a widscreen Trinitron for over 20 years, and when it died, it went green first, although just a half hour before it died completely.

[@kaitlyn__L]

@@jitmancanth6698 ah, she put up with it being all green for a few weeks or months, saying stuff like “sometimes this happens but then it clears up”; before she was finally convinced to upgrade. She stayed with Sony of course, but went from a 24”(?) 4:3 Trinitron to a 28”(?) 16:9 Bravia. (Question marks because I didn’t measure it myself before the upgrade and I didn’t read the box too hard when we took her TV browsing either, but that’s roughly the sizes it seemed. Had to fit in the same cabinet you see.) Pretty sure she’s still using that LCD 15 years on, and TBH LCDs are definitely the most long-lived monitor type, no phosphors to degrade etc, so realtalk I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s the last TV she ever uses. It’s not like she’d really benefit from going beyond whichever HD (regular or full) it is, and possibly can’t even tell that apart from SD, so really the main thing is the colours and the speaker quality for her. So yeah, I don’t see this TV getting replaced unless it dies, so unless the power supply caps suddenly dry up, I don’t expect it to do that either.

[@jitmancanth6698]

@@kaitlyn__L The coincidences continue. I replaced that 28 inch widecreen Trinitron with a 32 inch HD Sony Bravia as well, went on the old TV's stand, which had a cabinet in which reside the old DVD player and a set-top box for digital TV. Made sure the TV I bought had a SCART socket to plug the DVD player into, and bought a Blu-ray player to replace the set top box, and plugged that into an HDMI port. Had to buy speakers for the TV though, Stll, went from an 80kg TV to a less than 5kg TV, which was good for the floorboards.

[@kaitlyn__L]

@@jitmancanth6698 my grandmother’s TV stand was full of niknaks and statues, haha, but otherwise it was a fairly similar situation. She had hated the separate Freeview box and so was pleased when the upgrade let her use a “proper” TV remote again, since it had an integrated digital tuner. She never used her DVD player because she preferred live TV, she never even liked tapes.

[@stevethepocket]

The TV I grew up with did that too. Hate to think it might have been something as simple as replacing some stuff on the board, although my dad has always been pretty handy with electronics; he had modded that same TV to have a headphone jack. If he couldn't find a problem on the board, I hope that means there wasn't one.

[@markc871]

A nice fix but the chances that red and blue guns were both gone on the tube was very low. Pretty silly to go straight to a tube swap. You could’ve just grounded out the red and blue pins on the neck board to see if they were working.

[@scharkalvin]

Unusual for TWO electron guns to go bad. But technically, the Trinitron tube is a single gun, three beam tube. I still would have tried to test that old CRT. And it looks like the new tube is deeper (less deflection angle?) than the new one. At least before you swapped them.

[@ironhead2008]

Yeah, it might not be a bad idea to give the tube a once over with a tester/restore system. Never a bad idea to see if you can bring another CRT back to some level of usability before it gets yeeted for good.

[@Mr_Meowingtons]

yeah that's what sucks with testing caps... you can test them at low voltage and test fine but you bring them up to there operating range in circuit and they fail... it can make trouble shooting a PITA.. good work fixing it.

[@iamdarkyoshi]

Could you do an in depth video adjusting purity and convergence? I need to fix my arcade monitor, it's pretty bad

[@mountain177]

Shango066 has some good vids on that.

[@necro_ware]

Hi Adrian! Did I miss your answer, if this monitor support EGA/CGA sync beside VGA as well?

[@n0_31]

We got Rick rolled, that little monitor in the back that's playing all those funky videos just rick rolled us

[@FrankConforti]

If that was a 19” Sony would suspect it was used as part of a PC-based CAD system for several years. Back then it was not unusual for engineers and designers in engineering departments to leave their computers on all night because they were often used to do some serious analysis that the power of the PCs back then often took all night. We were merciless on the computer hardware but babied the software and design files. A couple years, something goes “pop!” you called IT for a replacement. Now, I wish I had my 19” Sony Multisync monitor.

[@flow221]

Well, that was a real emotional roller coaster.

[@mmestari]

I think I saw there brighter green lines going sideways but bit tilted. That seems to be common problem that Trinitron monitors develop. I have similar one.

[@bobsbarnworkshop]

I have three old CB radios to refurbish… first thing to do is change all the electrolytic capacitors before I even start troubleshooting!

[@AureliusR]

Whenever you are testing capacitors with an LCR meter, I personally always have the secondary display showing me ESR -- which tells me more about the state of the cap. That, or sometimes the Q value. Not sure what the D value is showing on that LCR meter?

Reparei vários problemas elétricos neste CRT. Toneladas de reparos, tempos ruins

[@briangoldberg4439]

To recap or not recap, that is the question. Sometimes a cap tests totally fine, but fails under load. When you've got a device with that much wear on it, and you're finding so many bad caps from heat damage, it's best just to shotgun it. Especially if it's something you really like that you'd like to be reliable for a long time. Replacing caps will also have an effect on the geometry, so if you are going to do it, you might want to do that before you tweak the hell out of it.

[@nickwallette6201]

^ Truth. If you gotta do one, just do them all and get it over with. And when you see heat marks like that, you definitely need to do them all. If they haven't failed yet, they just haven't failed _yet._ :-)

[@andrewb9830]

IBM did the same thing on their VGA screens. 9 pin on the monitor with a 9 to 15 pin cable.

[@CptJistuce]

So did NEC. 9-pin RGB seems to have been an accepted general standard for a while.

[@simontay4851]

Well it makes sense. VGA only needs 5 signals at minimum, RGBHV. Newer monitors also have SDA, SCL and 5V. On the 15 pin connector most of the pins are grounds.

[@CptJistuce]

@@simontay4851 Not entirely true. Aside from separate grounds for R, G, B, and a shared ground for H and V sync, IBM's original specification also designated four monitor detect pins and a ground for them, so the display adapter could determine what type of monitor was connected. While only RGBHV and ground are required, best practices would include separate grounds for each component, and shorting ID bits 1 and 2 to the logic ground so your display was identified as a color monitor capable of 1024x768(the best of the three modes). IBM did not just refuse to use a 9-pin connector out of spite, but this was also around the time their influence in the market began to wane, so no more than the original 3 monitors were ever defined as VGA was extended by third parties. While VESA would later repurpose three pins, they were not grounds. Two of the ID logic pins were reused for the I2C bus to transfer EDID data from a ROM inside the monitor to the graphics card. +5V was actually mildly problematic, since the VESA spec uses a pin that IBM had defined as a key. By the IBM VGA specification, that pin was not to be installed on a monitor cable, and adapters adhering to that original spec have the corresponding pin hole filled in with plastic. A VESA-compliant monitor with the +5V pin can't readily be plugged into very old VGA cards because the key pin works exactly as intended and prevents a non-compliant connector from being attached. However, that pin can usually be removed from the cable without issue, and the blocked hole on the adapter can be drilled out with equal ease.

[@petesapwell]

Can’t help thinking maybe the Focus was out for the original tube? Ie a tweek on the focus pot was needed.

[@DxDeksor]

Great repair ! I have a monitor that had yet another issue with colors : sometimes they appeared and sometimes they didn't. Also the signal looked a bit unstable (a bit shaky). After replacing the caps from the PSU board, and the signal board, the shakyness was gone, however the colors were still going away and coming back at random. It seems that either the socket of the neck board had a little oxydation issue, or the single cap that was on it was bad, because when I used deoxit and swapped the cap, the problem disappeard ! Now there are still more problems to that monitor (I think the CRT is worn out and I need to replace more caps because the picture is brighter on the left. Also I never hear the degauss), but there is still some hope. How do you find spare CRTs ?