Soundproofing an Existing Ceiling in a Room

Learn how to soundproof an existing ceiling in a room using Insulation, Resilient Sound Clips, Furring/Hat Channel, a second layer drywall with Green Glue Noiseproofing Compound, Acoustical Putty Pads on the light boxes and Acoustical Caulk. This same method can be used on walls as well.
Printable installation Guide for Resilient Sound Clips - www.tmsoundproo...
Printable Installation Guide for Green Glue - www.tmsoundproo...
For more information or to purchase products used in above video see below,
Resilient Sound Clip (GG Whiper Clip/RSIC-1/TMS Silent Clip) - www.tmsoundproo...
Resilient Hat Channel (Furring Channel) - www.tmsoundproo...
Green Glue Compound - www.tmsoundproo...
Green Glue Sealant - www.tmsoundproo...
Acoustical Putty Pads - www.tmsoundproo...
Mass Loaded Vinyl - www.tmsoundproo...
HVAC Damping Tape - www.tmsoundpro...
Share this Video! • Soundproofing an Exist... [Copy and paste link]
Click here for our article on soundproofing basics! www.tmsoundproo...
Subscribe to our channel! bit.ly/subscrib...
Trademark Soundproofing is one of the largest distributors of Soundproofing and Acoustical Materials, including Green Glue, Mass Loaded Vinyl, Acoustic panels/Fabrics and more.
Trademark Soundproofing also offers expert design and installation guidance to achieve desired sound control in all types of settings.
Visit our website www.tmsoundproo... to read more in depth articles on sound control and to purchase products shown. Most product are in stock and ship within one business day.
Follow us:
Facebook / tmsoundproofing
Google+ plus.google.co...
Twitter / tmsoundproofing
LinkedIn / trademark-soundproofing

[@WanJae42]

These soundproofing videos would be more interesting to me if there was a conclusion. How much money was spent to receive how much of a noise reduction?

[@azraaell]

Price it up in your area or online

[@thejohnmachine]

Or a before and after video (audio).

[@ImDembe]

insulation, resilient clips and drywall aint that expensive, two of the three you use anyway. The most important thing is to seal everything, even a hole with a speaker cable that isn't sealed destroy the overall result.

[@cargilb]

So, true. Why not show the difference in sound traveling through the ceiling. It makes it seem like a farce.

[@painterwnc]

Your headline was about an existing room. Your tore out the ceiling. How do you do this without tearing out the finished ceiling>

[@stara808]

I used your clips on my ceiling. We found that if we didn't place a rubber gasket bwt. the clip and joist that it still traveled sound (muffled)rt4

[@malsponger]

If you're going to go through all this trouble and pulling drywall, i'm curious why the fiberglass batts weren't replaced with rock wool?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

We have not seen any testing showing Rock wool to be more effective than Fiberglass. We recommend going with the least costly insulation (usually fiberglass).

[@malsponger]

Trademark Soundproofing Inc intestersring, I always figured Roxul Safe and Sound was the ticket for in cavity when combating sound. This is good to know.

[@kpd4572]

Depending on the type of project as well as state /county you live in can be a determining factor of the type of insulation permitted . In regards to Rockwool v Fiberglass insulation - According to testing performed at several independent laboratories, variation in density has little or no effect on overall (STC) ratings. Insulation thickness remains the determining factor.Fiberglass and stone wool insulation materials are also very good sound-absorbents because they have many interconnecting air pockets-Sound is absorbent by nature. Fiberglass and stone wool insulation significantly reduce sound transmission in wall, ceiling, floor, and HVAC assemblies. The first 25 mm (1 in.) of these materials in a building cavity can increase an assembly’s sound transmission class (STC) value by three or four points (in some constructions). Each additional 25 mm can further increase the STC rating by two points. If you compress insulation down,it will loose its sound density factor , restored it by releasing the compression. Choosing Rock Wool over Fiberglass would be more of a personal preference associated to health & environmental concerns. The personal preference of the majority of General Contractors is Stone wool(Rockwool) do to it not itching of the skin , keeping its form making it easier to install. We make every effort to use stone wool on all of our residential projects in benefit of the health of everyone . Most commercial projects require the use of stone wool ,which us a completely different subject

[@champflyer]

@Laura Brown I've found those curtains next to useless at eliminating noise

[@soundproofist]

@@champflyer These "soundproof curtains" posts are spam from Amazon Affiliate blogs that make a commission. And you're right, those curtains are useless for noise.

[@lionintu]

Who can I call in nyc to get this job done in the ceilings of a duplex?

[@ferrariunicorn]

This is the only video I could find where they removed & fixed the ceiling, for sound issues, that didn't push those noise dampening acoustic foam panels! It's great however, sadly, in my situation this wouldn't be considered economical "inexpensive/cheap" to my landlord who's finally working on evicting horrible tenants/neighbors below me - there cannot be insulation with how clear the conversations come through the floor. Once they're out he has to deep cleanse the place 😳 To which I suggested 'When they're out he could do something to reduce the sound issue'. To which he stated 'There's no way to do that with an existing ceiling. I can't just rip up the wood floor that would be insanely expensive and ridiculous'. To which I said 'When there's a leak in a ceiling that ruins the drywall, it needs to be moved & replaced, do that - place fiberglass insulation or spray foam in the between the joists and close it back up with new drywall - living room 20x15 est $ 400 & I'll help '. • Got A Surprised, Funny Look • ORRR 'Drill holes in the ceiling drywall, spray foam insulation inside them, then patch the holes back up - and do it throughout the whole apartment' 😅 To which I got a 'We'll See' 😒

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Thanks. Don't use spray foam for sound use Fiberglass, Rockwool or Cellulose. Best would be to rewove ceiling. Insulate and finish with 2 layers drywall and damping compound in between. Good Luck.

[@BacktrackADV]

Thanks for the informative info on sound proofing. Most literature I've reviewed discusses talking/music sound and impact sound. I haven't read anything addressing noise arising from the floor or ceiling structure itself. A common source of squeaks in a floor is floor boards rubbing together or fasteners (usually nails) rubbing against the wood after they become loose over the years. I am renovating a house built in 1912. The flooring on the main floor is hardwood over fir shiplap. In the basement below, I have access to the ceiling joist and have shimmed and glued as much as I can to reduce squeaks from wood on wood and wood on nails in the main floor above. Will the decoupling with clips/hat channel and two layer of 5/8 type X drywall and GGlue, help reduce any future squeaks that might (will!!) arise in the future? Thanks in advance for your help.

[@LamentationLaments]

Does it block the sounds of upstairs neighbors who deliberately dig their heels into the floor when they walk?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

It will help. However if they are stomping hard you will still hear it albeit damped.

[@psyience3213]

that's cool I've never seen those clips before.

[@regaudieguillaume]

So what did you do with the junction boxes? You can't leave them unaccessible, it's not permitted by the building code.

[@daviddang82]

For an existing ceiling, do you need to remove the existing drywall first? Or could you add the channel piece on top of the drywall?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Remove the existing ceiling for best results.

[@22rsx]

remove, because the first piece of drywall is whats rubbing against the framing.

[@alirezayousefirad]

Hi Is AAC block really good for soundproofing and can it be better than brick even if it has low mass and density?

[@timszon]

Beautifuly done.

[@standicarlo8334]

Looks good. How would you work with floor to ceiling sliding closet doors in bedrooms?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

What would be the issue? As long as the tracks are mounted below the drywall on the ceiling you would still maintain the soundproofing integrity of the ceiling.

[@standicarlo8334]

@@Tmsoundproofing Thanks. Reading about how sound is like water and can seep anywhere, I was overly worried. But I went ahead, did the installation, and it came out well.

[@DougieBarclay]

that's fine, but how do you install cornice?

[@19MadMike95]

I'm confused, are the screws going into the metal channels? how did you know if you were hitting one when putting in the screws?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Yes. Screws are fastened to the metal channel only.

[@jimgriggs2894]

What were the STC ratings before and after? Also what was the cost per square foot?

[@yankydrew4248]

No mechanical sound tests were done at site. Actual results were from Homeowner not being able to use the guest room to being able to use it with full privacy. Which is always our goal in homes, privacy. Cost per sf of actual soundproofing material is not that much for a small ceiling like this one. However cost for redoing an existing space can be high. Always soundproof during construction not afterwards.

[@romandelgado6767]

How much does this cost to install for one room?

[@thejohnmachine]

Can you add a layer of MLV as well as Green Glue? Would that add to its effectiveness?

[@susanwangcfa3685]

Does anyone know of any videos the show whether this can be done for an existing ceiling that cannot be opened up/dismantled? My building is literally 100 years old, and there could be something hazardous in the ceiling (asbestos, etc.). Thank you.

[@SeamlessFab]

You can decouple an existing ceiling with clips, channel etc. You would just locate the joists, install clips, run your channel and screw new 5/8” drywall into the channel only.

[@mckk5585]

Thanks for the vid. Question for you! I’m developing my basement right now. Just us that live here but I’ll have my office down there and want the basement space to be very isolated from main floor/rest of home. Would this be advisable? 1lb MLV on studs. Then Sonopan. Then res channels, then one sheet 5/8” drywall. Additionally, would you do this on all walls or just the ceiling? I’ve watched a zillion hours of vids etc. Any insight would be great!

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Hi. I would do the Resilient channel on top of the MLV and install your soundboard and drywall onto the channel. foe even better results use resilient sound clips, hat channel for that application. Doing the walls as well will enhance your soundproofing.

[@jakebarnett4401]

How did you handle demoing/installing the ceiling without removing the walls? Ceilings are usually installed first with the wall sheets butting up against them. Did you strip out the old drywall from ontop of the existing wall sheets at the joint then slide in the new ceiling sheets?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

When using the clips and channels and an existing wall in place. The ceiling will be lower than the top of the walls, so we did not slide the ceiling over the wall rather we created a new joint between wall and ceiling. As for removing the existing ceiling, you can go either way. We stripped it out.

[@infillvaluecreation]

I did a similar ceiling over a basement apartment. We added a layer of mass loaded vinyl on the joist and then the 237 clips and furring and a single 5/8 board. I found the outcome wasn't as good as I wanted it to be. Possibly the mass loaded vinyl was not very effective but it was expensive for sure. Do you think I should have deleted the mlv and used a second layer of 5/8?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Hi Sean. The 2nd layer would have been more effective as it would pull down more on the clips/channel creating better resilience. You would also achieve the extra mass and had an opportunity to damp the 2 layers with something like Green Glue. Nevertheless you did a very good application. It is possible that there are other factors compromising the performance. Some of that may be, recessed lights, soffits, part of the ceiling that is dropped, AC ductwork etc.

[@Jonathan_Doe_]

You may have inadvertently created a slight triple leaf effect by installing the mlv first, it would’ve been better directly on the back of the plaster board, or glued between the two layers of plaster board.

[@davidwaclo]

I want to create a music studio from my outdoor shed which is about 8’ from my house. I trust these methods would work, but there is a double paned ~4’x3’ window facing the house. Would the sound leakage from the window render the soundproofing useless? My master bedroom is on the second floor above where my wife goes to sleep early, would just whisper clipping the roof help? Thanks for your guidance!

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Yes the window will be a Weak Link in the soundproofing. You should consider putting up a window panel www.tmsoundproofing.com/Soundproof-Window-Panel.html If the MBR is in the house disconnected from the shed than you would need to treat the walls as well.

[@Nit3Fury]

Did the walls have to be decoupled as well? I noticed in the video it show 2 different walls(an already existing wall(painted/finished ect) and another that appears to ready for mudding/painting @ 2:09) when it was talking about sealing the perimeter of the ceiling with acoustic caulk. Do you need to redo the walls when you are trying to soundproof the ceiling for impact noises?

[@ImDembe]

You can do it but walls and floors are different since you want to eliminate impact noises between floors, walls don't have that problem.

[@ice101ownzme]

Is it imperative to do this exact process over all “4” walls in the room also to stop flanking noise .. or would the ceiling alone reduce noise greatly

[@Tmsoundproofing]

If the noise is from a room directly above then doing the ceiling alone would greatly reduce the noise. As sound does flank it would be even better if the walls are treated as well. However on existing rooms that is not so practical. It should be considered for new construction.

[@ice101ownzme]

Thanks for the quick reply.. I live in a condo and neighbors bedroom directly above my daughters bedroom now have two children living there and it’s been absolute torture (impact noise)… I’m ready to either sell my place or try to do some serious soundproofing

[@denniswilliams9145]

Green Glue is not nearly as effective as MLZ between two layers of 5/8 drywall, providing you use isolation clips

[@kajekage9410]

I would not consider this soundproofing an "existing ceiling." Like most when I googled, "how to soundproof an existing ceiling" it was with the intent of not having to do any demolishing.

[@Tmsoundproofing]

For any proper soundproofing to be done on an existing ceiling it would usually require adding insulation and/or another layer of drywall etc. Once that is done, a repaint job is necessary, therefore the step of demolishing the ceiling is not that dramatic especially when obtaining the huge benefit of proper decoupling. We also have a video up showing how just to add another layer of drywall without demolishing the ceiling. You can also read more on that here www.tmsoundproofing.com/soundproofing-existing-rooms-walls-ceilings.html

[@kajekage9410]

@@Tmsoundproofing I'll check it out, but my issue is that it's an old house with lath and plaster, removing that would be an absolute nightmare. I was originally thinking of building second ceiling or using some type of space like resilient channel right through the plaster to create a gap to run power and insulate then put two layers of drywall, but people were telling me that causes a third leaf issue and would make both sound and impact noise worse. Getting properly educated on this has been difficult.

[@Tmsoundproofing]

@@kajekage9410 Building a 2nd ceiling would be great if it was not attached to the ceiling above rather to the walls. While the triple leaf is a concern it is not that bad on a lath and plaster ceiling and the benefit will outweigh the drawback.

[@gqfiend]

Exactly!!!!!

[@erginyerkovan6957]

how much sound does it cut?

[@TheBroLounge]

On top of my joists there is wood floor laid, seems to be T&G. Should I put acoustic caulking in all the grooves between planks?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

You can, it will only help. If you are redoing the ceiling and creating a full sound envelope as in this video, it is not so necessary.

[@MisterWealth]

How much for a 12x12 ceiling?

[@fit4lifenickzagorov592]

Materials would cost u around 200-300 and add double that for labor unless u do by urself. Ruff estimate

[@Finkis1108]

@@fit4lifenickzagorov592 Seems low. You'll need 10 drywall sheets running you $130. You'll need 10 tubes of green glue, a dozen runs you more than $250 on Amazon. 50 bucks for the sealant. You'll need $150 in soundproofing clips and another $150 for the metal hat channels. At this point you're at 600 bucks without having it finished yet (mud, paint, labor)

[@EmpireTextbooks]

How necessary is the resilient channel? Can you get away with just using 2 sheets of 5/8” drywall with green glue?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Very. Resilient Sound Clips with Hat Channel can add up to 15 STC points. It is most important in ceilings where footstep noise is a concern.

[@EmpireTextbooks]

@@Tmsoundproofing but will 2 layers of 5/8 drywall and green glue provide a pretty good sound barrier? This is for a duplex with one unit on the top floor and one on the bottom

[@Tmsoundproofing]

@@EmpireTextbooks Yes it will, mainly for airborne sounds (not as much for impact sounds). Try to minimize any canned lighting.

[@EmpireTextbooks]

@@Tmsoundproofing good to know. I want to provide a good sound barrier but don’t want to get too carried away haha. And for lighting I just had in mind one standard light fixture so only the wires will be coming through the ceiling.

[@ImDembe]

@@EmpireTextbooks An extra layer of drywall can be added, more is better and drywall is pretty cheap.

[@anurruti]

Do you have to wait until the green glue dries before putting the other drywall layer or has to be fresh? Does it matter if the drywall panels are installed horizontally or vertically? thanks.

[@yankydrew4248]

You want the Green Glue to be wet and install the 2nd layer over it within a few minutes of applying the Green Glue. No difference in which direction panels are installed.

[@soundproofist]

I don't think Green Glue ever fully "dries." It remains viscous and flexible.

[@anurruti]

@@soundproofist thanks for your reply. I am doing what you listed here. The only difference is that I used Z RCs instead of hat RCs. I wonder if I screwed up as I believe the second is stronger and can hold further weights in a side wall (or even in the ceiling) while the Z RCs hold only up to 2 5/8"s not allowing for extra weight.

[@soundproofist]

@@anurruti What are the results? Is the airborne noise eradicated, even with 2 layers of 5/8"?

[@anurruti]

@@soundproofist I am a weekend warrior and king of procrastination, so that my progress is slow. I am photographing my steps which I will share when done. Not to leave you without a partial answer, I am battling a nasty neighbor's hottub humming, so I am unsure whether all this work given that it is infrasound, technically speaking.

[@JackieEco]

anyone know how much (range) this is to hire someone to do this?

[@JeramieCurtice]

Curious to know why GreenGlue? Seems other common tube materials would suffice.

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Good Question. Green Glue is a "damping" compound which contains visco elastic material that remain permanently "sticky". Other common materials do not have these makeup and will not convert sound waves to energy waves efficiently.

[@JeramieCurtice]

@@Tmsoundproofing isn't the concept of greenglue just to create a thin airgap? Any glue would work for that. From what I can tell, people use too much green glue and think the more the better, but you don't need much to create an airgap.

[@Tmsoundproofing]

@@JeramieCurtice Hi Jeramie. Green Glue is not used to create an air gap we actually want the 2 layers to be fastened as tightly together as possible. It is used to create a "damped" panel which kills vibration.

[@CC-jy4gr]

@@Tmsoundproofing can you further explain what "a damped panel" is and how it works to kill the vibration?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

@@CC-jy4gr Here is a scientific explanation taken from our website: In a constrained layer damping system, sometimes referred to as CLD, a damping material is sandwiched between two other (usually stiff rigid) materials. For example, Green Glue sandwiched between two layers of drywall. Damping occurs when the viscoelastic center of the sandwich is sheared . When bent, shear forces pull and stretch on the damping material. Under these conditions, the unique polymeric construction of Green Glue very efficiently converts this mechanical energy to heat. The vibration energy is not isolated, it is dissipated and gone. Read more here www.tmsoundproofing.com/green-glue-faq.html

[@danielzimmerman9722]

can the clips be drilled directly into the joists? It looks like you guys installed additional 2x4s running horizontally between joists and drilled into that. Thank you

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Hi Daniel. Yes these clips can and are usually installed directly to the ceiling (or wall) joists.

[@danielzimmerman9722]

@@Tmsoundproofing Thanks. One more question...I am trying to avoid tearing out the existing ceiling. If I were to skip the step of ripping out the existing dry wall and were to find the joist and just drill the clips through the existing dry wall into the joists, would that negatively impact the soundproofing? Also, any tips for how sound proof can lights without having to tear into exisiting ceiling and install "quiet boxes". Obviously the new ceiling will be lower and so I am thinking about just installing some LED conversion lights. Would the mass vinyl and some sound putty do the trick? Thanks

[@Tmsoundproofing]

@@danielzimmerman9722 That would negatively impact your project due to the triple leaf effect. www.tmsoundproofing.com/triple-leaf-effect.html As for the lights, if you are ripping out the existing ceiling I would recommend you use surface mounted LED/ www.tmsoundproofing.com/surface-mount-LED-light.html

[@danielzimmerman9722]

@@Tmsoundproofing Wow! Thank you so much for the information. In other words, If Im not able to rip out the existing ceiling then it is better just to apply green glue and an additional layer of 5/8" dry wall, correct?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

@@danielzimmerman9722 If there is insulation in the ceiling, yes. However if your main concern is footfall noise than the clips will be better.

[@floridaproductiongroup9970]

Curious why the use of mesh drywall tape? Thanks!

[@Tmsoundproofing]

We find that when using clips channels and/or green glue. Slight movement may cause hairline cracks of the spackle/tape. With mesh tape there is a much better chance of no hairline cracks developing with time.

[@larrytate1657]

Do you guys sell the parts only and I wanna try to do it myself.

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Of course. Hop over to our website where you can purchase these clips, channels and Green Glue on their own. www.tmsoundproofing.com

[@larrytate1657]

Can the hat channel hold quiet rock too or would that be too heavy? I heard quiet rock is heavier than regular dry wall but has better rating.

[@Tmsoundproofing]

The clips and channel we carry can hold hold that easily as long as they are spaced properly.

[@805Mtz]

Hi there, so the second sheet of drywall it goes the same way direction ? Or it goes across?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Best would be to lay the 2nd layer staggered so that the seams do not overlap with the first layer. That way you seal against sound leaks between seams.

[@champflyer]

@Laura Brown I've found those curtains next to useless at eliminating noise

[@akeelshah7904]

@@champflyer really?

[@kriznaft]

what kind of tape did you use in the ducts?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

We used a special damped metal tape manufactured by 3M. We should be offering it on our website in the near future.

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Here is a link to it www.tmsoundproofing.com/3M-2552-Vibration-Damping-Foil-Tape-36-Yards.html

[@kpd4572]

3M 2552 VIBRATION DAMPING FOIL TAPE www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Damping-Foil-2552/?N=5002385+3293194280&rt=rud

[@ZackZweifel]

what thickness of drywall were you using for both layers?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Half inch.

[@ronwurzer5138]

Use 5/8 drywall. While only an 1/8 thicker, it is much better than 1/2.

[@YWmakeup]

We are planning on doing this for our reno, but we've installed recessed lighting cans. The edge of the can is 1/2" lower than the joist...and it can be adjusted 1/2" lower for a total of 1" below the joists. But after the clips, hat channels, and two layers of 5/8" drywall w green glue, the final ceiling will be a total of 2 3/8" lower than the joists. Does anyone have a solution for lowering the cans more or installing the light cover trim lower somehow?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

If your drywall is not up yet you can just lower the entire can from where it was placed and renail them in at a lower point.

[@YWmakeup]

The hanging bracket for the recessed light is nailed in right on the edge of the joist, so there nothing to nail into if we try to lower the entire can...

[@MrDusty501]

@@YWmakeup Did you find a solution? i am wondering the same thing.

[@YWmakeup]

MrDusty501 We ended up spray foaming the gap and getting trim covers that attach with spring loaded clips. The they allow for the covers to adjust lower than the can. We just pressed them up to the drywall and they stay that way. If I do it again I would add a piece of wood to the bottom of the joist and attach the can light there. Then plan out the ceiling channels so they aren’t in the way.

[@jasonbell5152]

Never use resilient clips & strips or the green caulking gimmick. The weight of just single layer Type-X drywall will eventually crack every joint. And mesh tape has no resistance to the tension forces pulling at each seam after the strips sag as designed. Cheap 25 gauge steel, spaced 48" OC, has inadequate support for 70-75lb drywall sheets. To dampen talking and music with 2x8 ceiling joists between floors, use double layer of rock wool with 6mil plastic air barrier, and acoustic sealant to plug all holes. There can't be even a 1/4" hole. Every sq/in. must be totally sealed. Most of the talking and music sound waves are air transmitted. So the whole trick is to install an air barrier. To dampen impact noise, the worst being hard heeled shoes on a hardwood floor, the trick is to cancel or substantially reduce sound transmission between the ceiling joists and drywall by decoupling the joists from the drywall. This can be done with rubber gasket installed between each ceiling joist and 1x3 strapping mounted perpendicular to the joists and never screwing through the drywall into a joist. Only fastening the drywall between the joist chases. Even foam padding would uncouple quite a bit. The resilient strips and clips are pathetically weak support members. The green caulking is no more effective than any cheap generic caulking in noise reduction coefficient. Adding a second drywall layer offers negligible NRC improvement until maybe the quintupled point.

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Hi Jason, We have installed ceilings using these techniques for over ten years and have not had any issues with "cracks in every joint". In the one case we did have an issue it was on a job that we did not even use any clips or channels just 2 layers of drywall. Besides for our own jobs, we have sold tens of thousands of clips/channels and hundreds of thousands of square feet of Green Glue with rarely if ever any complaints of joint issues. Many ceilings deal with footfall/impact sound and decoupling is key to controlling that. Additionally clips and channels add an impressive 15 STC points to airborne sound, something not achievable no matter how much insulation you stuff in there.

[@jasonbell5152]

Different US states have different 5/8 drywall screw type and OC spacing minimum building code requirements. In resilient strips, the thin metal clips, deformable in one's fingers, being weak 25 gauge metal (15 mil), fastened 48" OC with two coarse screws, repeated over 7 joists per 4x8 sheet, performing double-duty for adjacent 5/8 sheets, or 1 screw per clip, is 74lb suspended from 14 flimsy metal hangers supporting a flimsy metal strip. Doubling the 5/8 becomes 148lb or 10.67lb per screw. This is way below the most lenient code of 12" OC on butt seams and 12" in the field. Or 14 screws @ 16" x 48" spacing v. 35 @ 12"x16" all secured to the 2x lumber. The resilient strip & clip system is very weak. The real drywall screw pullout strength, since each screw, whether lumber or metal, can support >sheet weight of 74 lb as laboratory tested, around 115lb to induce failure of any fine drywall screw in 25 gauge metal, is each screw head-paper junction. It is the weight of the drywall that pulls down on the screw head that doesn't budge in the metal or wood. So it's a thin layer of paper, dimpled by the screw head, holding up a near 11lb weight responsibility v. 2.1lb per each 35 screws of the most lenient code requirement. The strip-clip has >5x the weight burden of the weakest code. I would not want this over my or anyone's head. Each screw in the field, attached to a strip uncoupled from the clips, translates its weight load to the flimsy clip hooks. The ceiling drywall is the reverse of a floating floor system. All it takes is a pulling action that opens up 1-2 mil, the thickness of dried acrylic paint, easily accomplished by attic air pressure differential, to split the drywall tape and open up an eyesore crack. There is no way 14 easily malleable metal clips and 48" strip spans can rigidly secure 2x 5/8 drywall from shear or torsion. The best feasible material to absorb residential impact noise is, like rubber mat underlayment, 3/8 rubber blocks at each joist-strapping junction. It's the rubber floor mat underlayment only relocated to the ceiling. The 1x3 strapping is fastened to each joist at 16"OC, no 48" Grand Canyon leap of faith. Way stronger.

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Not sure where you are getting your info from. 25 gauge is actually close to 22 mil (www.mesteel.com/cgi-bin/w3-msql/goto.htm?url=/info/carbon/thickness.htm) no way you can deform it with your fingers. Clips and channels have over a 300 pound pull on them and we have done chin ups on them, tested it with heavy barrels hanging from them as well with no issues whatsoever. I think you may be confusing the hat channel with the one legged resilient channel. The hat channel aka metal furring channel is also used extensively as furring for drywall on concrete walls. This clip and channel system has been and is spec'd by architects throughout the US for over a decade.

[@jasonbell5152]

Good to hear you're using rigid channels. The majority don't. I get the occasional call to repair cracked ceiling seams enabled by flimsy metal. The cracks are irreparable. All repair work will be futile as will eventually crack.

[@Tmsoundproofing]

True. the majority use flimsier one legged resilient channel. Those would not fit into resilient sound clips, which can only be used with rigid metal furring hat channel. Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@timcouch5005]

You know it's kind of hard to take a company or a product serious when your thumbnail is misleading as hell this is new construction this is not an existing ceiling

[@Mavstang73]

The installer failed to use washers on the resilient clips mounted to the ceiling. It looks like he just used a drywall screw???!!! The clips come with heavy duty steel washers for a reason. The head of the screw he used was barely bigger than the hole in the clip. Please correct the video or put in a disclaimer instead of showing people the wrong way to do something.

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Thank you for your comment. The washers are only necessary for UL rated applications. #8 Coarse Thread screws (as used in the video) will work great on wood trusses. The ceiling done in this video has been holding strong 5 yrs plus....

[@Mavstang73]

Trademark Soundproofing Inc well it’s a good thing ceilings only need to stay up for five years.

[@Tmsoundproofing]

@@Mavstang73 :) We'll be happy to update on the status again in 2039!

[@Pytlikovo]

How much that cost?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Cost can vary greatly depending on which materials and labor cost. You can give us a call 845-388-1200 to help with estimating materiel amounts and price.

[@rodri6095]

Super expensive

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Hi Rodrigo. Which part do you find as "super expensive"?

[@vin-a-laugh]

@@Tmsoundproofing How much would it cost in total to do what you did in the video?

[@Tmsoundproofing]

@@vin-a-laugh The bulk of the cost would depend on your local contractor. The soundproofing material for such a small space could run about $500-$800. It is the cost of labor, repainting etc that drives the cost up (which is why we always recommend doing the work during construction!). Our cost on this ran about $4,000 (it was a high end home that required special attention)

[@barrymarson9658]

Not an effective method. Where is the sonoboard

[@Tmsoundproofing]

If your looking to promote Sonoboard try a different channel. It is the same as soundboard and we think that a 2nd layer of drywall is more effective especially when used in conjunction with a damping compound.

[@barrymarson9658]

Not in the least of trying to promote any products. Frankly u like in the States for which Sonopanbos not sold. I drove over 600 miles to make the purchase in Canada and it's a surely good product at the cost..

[@madisonmckenzie7442]

ok

[@1971dave]

Green glue what a joke, 2 tubes £12 each + 2 sound block boards £14 each, ummmmm just use 1 sheet of plywood £23 and then 1 9.5 £3.50 plasterboard oveer that and skim it, green glue dose not work, that's why studios are all wood not plasterboard Muppets

[@Tmsoundproofing]

Lab testing, on field testing and customer reviews and feedback all say that Green Glue works and works very well. Will add up to 9 STC points if used between the layers.