Speedlight Portraits Explained | Mark Wallace | Exploring Photography

[@greatpix]

I've been watching Mark Wallace videos for many, many years now. He's always got good advice.

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Thanks so much!

[@andrascsirmaz3043]

Had the privilige to meet him years ago when he was in Hungary. Very nice in person too. :) Pity I had to leave so early from the meeting.

[@vcarrano]

Same here. Mark is a great teacher.

[@jasonbodden8816]

Dude, when I started out, he was one of the relatively few photographers on KZbin. I learned SO much about the fundamentals from him. He is one of the GOATS and I'm so thankful for him and his very clear teaching style!

[@wmbrennan]

Mark you are the best, you explain things so that a 76 year old guy can understand it.

[@TeddyCavachon]

I learned flash photography in 1972 assisting top wedding photograher/teacher/author Monte Zucker who introduced the use of photo cell triggered electronic flash to color wedding photograph to overcome the short range of color prints. The way he did this is by always having a flash mounted directly above the lens high enough that the center of the flash head was higher than the head of the subject so the shadow it created fell straight back out of sight of the lens. When only a single flash is used like that it will create a downward “butterfly” shadow pattern which is the most commonly used strategy for full face advertising shots of models who typically have very symmetrical faces that naturally downward angle symmetrical pattern flatters. Bounce off a 8-10 foot ceiling will produce the same angle of light with more diffusion and less parallel rays but most of the places where we shot receptions had 30” foot ceiling where bounce wasn’t an option. 99% of the time we added the second flash off axis, rolling it around like dance partner with one hand on a modified medical IV stand with the one camera becoming the fill. The advantage of the two flash Key over Fill are total control over tonal range and 3D modeling anywhere, indoors or out. Technically this is how it works to match foreground EXACTLY to the DR or the camera sensor indoors: 1) Set aperture for desired DOF then turn on the centered above head FILL and raise its power until detail in a draped black towel or similar fabric is seen in the playback. 2) Turn on KEY flash, move to create desired highlight pattern over the fill, raise power until detail in a draped white towel, etc. is 1/3 below clipping Outdoors is similar except subjects back is put to the sun as rim light and Aperture / ISO/ Speed is adjusted to keep the sun kissed whites 1/3 stop under clipping, Fill until detail seen in black, then Key to 2/3 stop below clipping (not 1/3) on front of white object to preserve the ambience of the rim light. Outside the angle of the skylight will alway cause brow to shade sky fill from eyes but raising face into light and POV of camera to match solves that problem. Bring a step stool. Skylight the subject faces will also always create a very low contrast highlight / shadow pattern. Key Flash placed to create that same highlight pattern from same angle is the best strategy to blend the two together as seamless as possible. Since 2004 I’ve been using DIY scoop style speed light diffusers made from two layers of 9 x 11 sheets of 1/8 “Fun Foam on vertical flash with top flap held in place with velcro which splits the output in half sending it forward and down directly from the flash+diffuser on bracket over camera and what spills past the top as bounce off the ceiling. The forward vector adds that “butterfly” pattern of highlight and shadow over the ceiling bounce portion resulting more normal seen by eye contrast vs. the sea of sameness long in bounce only shots.

[@kennethnielsen3864]

Some times its just alot more convenient, to have the flash on the camera, if you are shooting in a city street for instans, ore a crowded place, where your lightstand might get pushed over. I usually have a 60cm/24 inch reflector with me, with that I have created lots of beautiful portraits. Thanks for sharing.

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Yep, there are so many times when a speedlight is the tool you need for the job.

[@greatpix]

Pick yourself up a flip type bracket so you can shoot portrait and landscape mode with flash above the lens, or flip the flash to the (usually left side) to get a little different angle on the flash if shooting fairly close. You'll need a connecting cord to control the flash from the camera, or if the camera has a built-in flash that acts as a master controller for off camera flashes you can use that. Also there are affordable remote controllers for flash so you can use one or more flashes all being controlled right from the camera.

[@greatpix]

I made the mistake once in my early days (once is all it took to learn this lesson) of bouncing a flash off what I thought was a white wall but in fact was painted in a mushroom color which played havoc with my skintones. White can cover a range of subtle colors from bluish to reddish and other weird colors like mushroom. Of course, if you're shooting B&W it doesn't matter. Speaking of bouncing light I'm reminded of a Mark Wallace video from a long time ago where he demonstrated the effect of the montones of a background and how a, say, a red gelled light will look pastel on a white background to a deep saturated red on a black background.

[@raymart86]

Well done! I was skeptical at first but those last shots bounced looked great!

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Thanks!

[@greatpix]

Old retired photographer here. All you need is a diffuser, from a white wall to bounce a light source off of, to a white shower curtain or bed sheet to shoot the flash through, and a digital camera that gives you instant feedback. You can use smaller diffusers to less effect but a couple of paper clamps held in place by a thick rubber band, and a regular letter size sheet of paper held in a curve in front of the light source will work too. By light source it could mean a flash, from cheap to expensive, or a shop light to professional strobe or LED light. Strobe or continuous. With a little practice you'll become proficient with it.

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Absolutely. Use whatever you can to get the job done.

[@impopio4987]

​@@MarkWallaceVideoshow about on camera flash but this time its night time.. can u make a video?

[@wilsonphoto2850]

Nice sir god bless u

[@fountainvalley100]

Always providing excellent material.

[@jaygreer7430]

Great advice and examples. I like the results from your bounce flash technique the best.

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

I appreciate that! I agree - the bounce was best. I almost never shoot with a flash on the camera, but when I do, I try to bounce to soften the light.

[@richshelton7303]

Thank you for this video! Very informative!

[@charleschessler4808]

That natural light at about 18:10 is beautiful!

[@greatpix]

Pick up a cheap used Vivitar 285 flash with variable power dial or a 283 with the Vari-power attachment. I've been using the latter since they came out in the 1970s. They last forever.

[@dektold76]

Very good lesson. You explained a great deal of flash procedures. Thank You

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@FlatulEssence]

Here you are all of a sudden. I always follow your tutorials and other videos during the past few years, until the pandemic came. Suscribed again... will look forward of watching your future videos. Thanks!!!

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Welcome back! Good to see that things are getting back to normal. :)

[@marchinderickx8193]

Great session; really appreciated.

[@zettelberg4276]

Thank you for really taking your time to explain - and not only to run though.

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

You bet!

[@COLAXDAD]

great video Mark! Any advice on a speed light for the R5C that's actually in stock? Canon told me the EL-5 would work on preorder but it's a brick.

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Godox/Flashpoint has some very affordable speedlights that are fully compatible. I've used the Godox V1 and had some really great results. If you want a professional level on-camera flash, the Profoto A10 is my recommendation. I've linked to all of those products in the description of this video. :) You can see me using the Godox V1 (Flashpoint version - they are identical) in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j566oJuJf9uhgposi=JfJun7b9ncVKHP1n

[@daves3125]

Nice to see you on another video bro, its been a while.

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

I just posted 43 new member videos. 🤣 I can’t keep up! 😁

[@medievil2]

Love your videos Mr Wallace , wouldn’t have been easier to set manual expose for ambient the regulate flash power until we get the right exposure for both ambient and subject? Hey I’m no gavin hoey but I dared to ask.

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Yep, you can absolutely do it that way. AV mode with exposure comp + FEC, Manual + FEC, or Manual exposure and manual flash. Whatever works best for you.

[@jimk8353]

Do you have any videos on editing portraits in LR? Your skin tone edits at the end of this video are outstanding!

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

I just created an 11-hour class on LR Classic for Snapfamily Students (channel membership).

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

I recorded this recently kzbin.infouemdX3VjBEY?si=BfOS-vDh2yHoFaYo

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Looks like I need to add a few more LR portrait videos to the list of future videos! :)

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

FYI - these images were edited in LR Classic, the skin retouching was done in Evoto, and the generative fill was done in Photoshop. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqmqk3dph793iM0si=Lz5yNkrs7rEfk20M kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGqQkK2qZ66WY6ssi=qbI6WwU8nluyOJGZ kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6G4iaGsoq2Cbrcsi=q6z7TGbn02L9eMNv

[@jimk8353]

@@MarkWallaceVideos Thanks so much for the detailed replies, Mark!

[@SlayerzXtreme]

Love it! Hey Mark, I'm having trouble applying these on camera flash principles on dark skins when the subject is on the shade and is backlit on Mid-Day. I shoot at the beach all time and it looks too flashy and not natural. Any help would be awesome!

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

@@SlayerzXtreme It sounds like your meter is not compensating for the dark skin, it’s an issue with TTL metering. Try a different metering mode (face priority or spot) and see if you can figure out the correct compensation. Or… use a handheld meter. Incident metering is always more accurate.

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

@@SlayerzXtreme kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJLOiaB4d5hjhsUsi=-WuUP6MCSvl1fchD

[@SlayerzXtreme]

@@MarkWallaceVideos Thanks Mark!

[@greatpix]

@@MarkWallaceVideos Here is my take on a handheld meter... :o) If you're in the same light as your subject hold your hand up and turn it so your palm faces you in the same plane as your subject. (doesn't have to be in focus, unless you have camera set to not shoot if not in focus, you can turn that off) Manual meter your palm and then open up 1 to 2 stops, depending on how dark your subjects skin tone is. In some cases you might have to go even higher with very black skin.

[@kdj.imagery4317]

Sarah, I hope I spelled her name right, is very beautiful. She has great features and form and kudos too her for not having a lot of tats/piercings! I have a question about on camera flash. Well two really! One is do you use high speed sync when shooting in harsh outdoor lighting? Secondly, when bouncing the flash, do you have to increase the flash exposure in order too maintain the right amount of light? Sarah's skin tone in these photos seem a little better than in the video in which you were explaining how to use the Passport color checker for WB!

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

HSS is used when you need the shutter to be faster than sync speed. I avoid it unless its absolutely necessary. I prefer to find some shade, use a large diffuser, etc. But, sometimes, you just need HSS. Yes, you have to compensate the flash power when bouncing. But, if you use TTL, that is automatic. In this video I warmed up Sara's skin tone. It was an artistic choice. There is technically correct and artistically correct. One is objective and the other is subjective. I almost always go with the subjective result. :)

[@BankonJovan]

I had no idea flash exposure compensation was a thing! 🤯 Thank you! New sub!!

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Happy to help!

[@MartinV.]

Great Video!!

[@dilanalexsander9332]

Thanks for amazing experience .I love that ❤

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@HumbertoAbed]

Great video as always Mark. She looks just like Eleven from Stranger Things!!!!

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

She does! I didn't even think of that!

[@josediazh3890]

Muchas gracias.

[@gonygonygo]

I miss Mark Wallace (with AdoramaTV) - when I was really getting serious about learning photography!!! Over a decade ago!

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

I’m still here! :)

[@apaches04soccer]

beautiful

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Thank you! 😊

[@barryfoster5031]

Mark,where did you get the cargo pants?

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

@@barryfoster5031 www.fjallraven.com/uk/en-gb/men/trousers/trekking-trousers/vidda-pro-trousers-m/

[@mauricevandenbosch7361]

The most difficult it gets when ambient white balance and flash white balance mix. It would be interesting to see a video about this.

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

The over simplified answer is to use a gel to match the flash color temp with the ambient color temp. There are many companies that make little gel packs for speedlights. Rogue makes some great kits. Here's a bit about that: www.rogueflash.com/blogs/blog/creative-lighting-outdoors-with-small-flash-and-gels

[@Santafefashionweek]

Great information

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Glad you think so!

[@zacharypatsula9218]

Wow best video ever

[@JennyGavinWear]

Hey Mark! Been a while! Tough job, but someones got to do it, right? lol Hope you're keeping well and great to see you putting out the videos! Stay safe! J x

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Thanks Jenny! Glad to see you back!

[@tilaksraj]

Hey mark which camera model you used in this video?

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

It's a Canon R5. There are links to all the gear in the description. :)

[@ericgrayphoto]

So on Canon, ETTL works when the camera is in manual mode just like in Av and Tv modes?

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

@@ericgrayphoto Yes, the flash exposure is separate from the ambient light exposure. It works the same for all camera brands. They are two separate exposures controlled separately. It’s pretty cool!

[@andrascsirmaz3043]

Mark, I challenge you to make a similar video with the popup flash. :)

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

hahaha. I don't have any cameras with a pop up flash. Maybe I'll dig out an old camera from 1980 and try this with a disposable flip-flash. That would be a challenge!

[@matskay1971]

Hi Mark , What do we do in situations where the Mid day sun in the background, the subject still comes out underexposed after using the flash in full power. Any suggestions for this issue.?

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWrNqaKeoNSEfK8si=_2W94QZlLVZyTbZT

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ6YhH-EbMyVn9ksi=013-BCKEfR4Wdhfu

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGbOmWWGrrdsb7csi=BuJVHKYvhXTWNnRR

[@vperalta]

You stated you were recreating the settings from a previous episode. One of those settings was ISO 160. You showed us that setting. Did you realize that after you started photographing your model (4:14) the ISO changed to 200. Was it intentional?

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

yes, it was to get the shutter to 1/60

[@tbenitezes]

Me gusta mucho!!!

[@vincentnavea6999]

I use ettl on my on cam flash and I almost get it near the exposure I want while the rest of the photogs thinking manual is the best keeps adjusting flash power and chimping while I am already shooting at the model. hahaha.

[@LucasRafaelDesenhista]

good

[@WhatElsW]

🎉

[@vahidamini1863]

✌....

[@kennethnielsen3864]

First.

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

woot woot!

[@waqashslama2164]

hello

[@robari2410]

Mark is good as usual, but who stayed watching the whole thing just to keep looking at the beautiful sexy lady? 😂

[@Hegemonix08]

she is absolutely breathtaking, I can't stop watching her

[@wildeman32]

Don’t do what this guy is doing. Never use flashes EVER on portraits unless it’s in studio with soft boxes and diffusers. Shoot at time of day not with flashes aimed at your subject. This guy is a salesman for flashes

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

Ummmm. I don't make a penny from flash sales. I'm just here to help out photographers. But, thanks for the kind words. ;)

[@zardosspinosa6944]

Yea, let's just say using on camera flash is a bit tricky and probably not worth the hassle. However reporters and other types use on camera flash and you can tell the image is often too much flash. Off camera is way better and I am a firm advocate of this technique, but more stuff to carry. Then there is the issue of camera sinc speed, if you want the dreamy portrait effect shooting at 1.4, in which case you need a filter or HSS. And of day and in my experience with the modern sensors and your editing programs better to forget on camera flash and shoot natural, or go off camera, off camera is worth the effort for the results.

[@MarkWallaceVideos]

@@zardosspinosa6944 17:23 I totally agree 🙂

[@manoharmgr8235]

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