Sonos PLAY 1 - Teardown

[@rayshieh6048]

Thanks for your video!!! My play1 had some problem with the bass after my cat knocked it over from the shelf. I thought it was totally unrepairable and going to dump it, But your video help me figure out how to replace the bass and I success! Now my play1 is back in shape and ready to work for another 5 years 🎉

[@Spiderelectron]

I'm glad it helped!

[@louisolivierfortin]

On a side note: I managed to hook up a powered Polk audio sub to a play 1 easily. You basically just hook a wire on each woofer wire and it’s a done deal. You start the sub on very low volume and run a trueplay setting and there you go, you now have real bass ;)

[@tomgle]

Excellent video. I wanted to see what I was facing when I tear one apart to add external speaker wires for an outdoor speaker. 4 wires coming off the main board for the speakers is surprising! It probably means I'll have to tear apart the outdoor speaker to get to the woofer and tweeter wires.

[@agona-piesie6604]

I'm learning how to open mine since am watching, thanks ao much

[@infogather]

I wish to thank you for the video. Your video helped me dismantle it to remove the outside screen and repair a dent'crease to make it look new again. It is greatly appreciate.....

[@Spiderelectron]

Great! Glad it was of some help.

[@TheMatlacks]

Thanks! I solved a problem with a loose connection with the help of you video.

[@mrdog3920]

Followed your video to help me figure out how to disassemble my play one that stopped working after a big surge that we had recently. Nice to find the hidden screws straight away without having to pry and prod everything. It looks like the 2amp fuse has blown so I will get a replacement and hope that it did it’s job before frying any of the other parts. Thanks for the insight 👍

[@SB-bt8um]

One of the best tear down. Thanks.

[@hfs9502]

A trouble-shooting guide to power problems would be most helpful. Thanks for a very helpful video.

[@rickvelasquez4782]

Great video. Had a few dents in my screen grill. Dents all gone. Thanks again for the great video.

[@timjrbrown1259]

I have a blown play 1 and wanted to turn it into a sonos connect to run my reviever. They want $500 for a connect so I figured if I could find where the signal goes into the amp and solder rca's I could save a lot of money. Do you know if this could be done?

[@markwith140]

As an Electronic Engineer I found it very interesting, and I did not want to take my own Sonos speakers to see what was inside😁

[@Karma-bz2xx]

Is there a way to tell what’s wrong with a speaker once it’s open? Mine has a solid white light so should still function but will not connect to WiFi or be recognised by Sonos app. The factory reset doesn’t do anything and I don’t know what’s wrong with it.

[@tp2487]

Theres a small smell of acid coming from both play 1's i just purchased used...can you show a detailed fix for this ? Thanks

[@Spiderelectron]

Small smell of acid is normally associated with leaking electrolytic capacitors. Replace the electrolytics and you should be good.

[@Mcclucker]

How would you suggest fixing a Sonos Play:1 if dropped on the floor and now making a distorted sound when playing? Think this would be an easy fix?

[@aylinambar2976]

I have the same issue

[@torrado410]

I also have the same issue 😢

[@krakelit]

It's often a screw (4 around the speaker) that have been moved due to the impact I had to bend the speaker mounting plate back to straight and screw it down agen firmly. Oh we're ur at it check the glueing around the magnet, it can also have cracked a bit so a round of super glue there too isn't bad

[@kennethmc07]

Absolutely love this stuff haha thank you keep the videos coming.

[@maxinto-personal9797]

Hi I opened as you described to identify the cause of a vibration/distortion of bass frequencies. I was looking for loose screws or damages of the speaker foam.... nothing strange found... Have you an idea of the possible cause?

[@DBartel2000]

Just found this great video of yours. Loved it. Can you please tell the details of your smart tiny camera, you used for details?

[@augustusx82]

Great video. Very informative. One question. I have a dent in my grill that I need to pop outwards. The screws look kind of funny in this video. What type of device are you using to unscrew The housing on the outside and remove the plastic? Because that’s what I need to purchase.

[@Spiderelectron]

Ooh it's been a while, but I believe they were T10 "Torx" style screws.

[@Legend20002001]

Can you please do this with a Play 5 too? Love to see the type of speakers they are using and get some internal airspace details if possible. Thank you

[@changtraidoc]

You can check video kzbin.info/www/bejne/oqC3lHWXbcZ4qqs

[@cloverdesignandbuild]

Superb demo, many thanks

[@gurolguven9359]

I was thinking to add an external sub woofer on to this via making a 6mm hole around the plastic of the Ethernet socket so I can feed a cable and connect it to speakers so the end of the cable can feed the sub. Looking at the video the hole can’t go trough cos the board so needs so stop half way and come out from side with another hole like and L shape. What do you think would this be possible? thanks for the video

[@chriscoulson7684]

Gurol Guven I have done this with the play 3, shorts out about half volume. Altho half volume is still much better than play 3 on its own...any suggestions for changing amp or anything? Not really that clues up on the matter but I had a spare sub, and didn’t fancy paying 650 for a Sonos one if I could help it

[@jeffpatterson9515]

Thanks for the very nicely done tear down and video. I have the dreaded white light but won’t connect or factory reset. Maybe I’ll tear apart once Sonos support gets back with me to say I am out of warranty period

[@jameskirkness523]

Thanks for the video man! Curiosity satiated

[@khalidgul786]

hello, is it possible to add a aux in for audio ?

[@xmail5]

im wondering too

[@JFKemp]

I would like a preamp out connector on the back of one so that I could connect my main system and by the way thanks for a great great job.

[@BrianWatsons]

Me too, but they sell the "Connect" for this exact purpose. Less components than a Play 1 (no amplifier or speakers) and twice the price!

[@timbuchert2877]

Hi, the orange fuse is burn and the yellow one beside is having a crack. Is it possible to repair that?

[@mikeyslas4557]

this is the old one, i currently take the new Sonos One and weatherproof it now. look on youtube for waterproof Sonos by Paryloc

[@TrasteIAm]

no

[@sebastianvanderwolf6500]

Kringed hard when he touched the driver 😂

[@MehranJabbari]

We’re you able to find out what the power supply converted the voltage to in DC? Was it 12volt dc?

[@camilocabrera4688]

Como ponerla a zona las bocina

[@DubiousEngineering]

Epic strip down... thanks for the education... I plan to make a sub bass out of one of these and a cheap off the shelf sub bass instead of spending £700 on their unit... I’ll copy the speaker output by drilling two small holes through the unit and sealing them with hot glue.... I recon I can have a sub for about £300 then! :)

[@Spiderelectron]

Nice one!

[@manCaveSweden]

Hi, what are the small resistors nearby the larest capacitor ? It says r524 but the rest on my board are burnt out. Could you please help with the part numbers of those 3 small smd components ?

[@leosedf]

Does anyone know what brand speakers they use?

[@gorantingstrom2058]

Thanks for this video ! Can you try to connect it to a hifi speaker .. maybe floor strand to see what it can do ?

[@pablojimenezalcazar7064]

Very good video, but one question, what is the amplifier then? How integrated is it?. Tanks!!

[@jpdenat1]

Very good ! I have a special project on and wondering if we could collaborate

[@mattcourtney4484]

Based on what you see, is there any way to pull a line out? Coming off the amp directly? Where do they split the frequency b/w tweeter and mid-woofer?

[@the_hobbyist]

I also wonder about the filtering for the speaker units, but as always questions stay unanswered, when a video is becoming old.

[@cpvchicago99]

Probably not. See this, based on the speaker from Ikea (also made by Sonos). Frequency is split in the processor itself. kzbin.info/www/bejne/kHOXYmaJbbB3o9E (at about 7:45 in that video)

[@MartinBakerPC]

Good afternoon, just come across your video, my speaker in my play one is no good now, so, I was wondering if you could help, I'm wanting to make the Sonos interface work with my old school separates system. Is there any way to disconnect the speaker in the play 1 and then send the signal to my stereo via and auxiliary/rca cable, then I could plug in :). Thank you in advance

[@AKUJU]

I would assume unbricking the speakers in recycle mode is only addressable using firmware. Was trying to see if there's a way to physically bypass this

[@dancso1984]

Hey. What connectors are for the antenna wire? Ipex4? My gazebo speaker is shilded too much so thinking of joining and external high gain antenna. Would that work? Tia

[@sjoffe]

Could someone please tell me what size (ohm) the thermistor TH1 is? And whether it is a ptc or a ntc?

[@sargnonphilippe6635]

Your video is very interesting. Many thanks for it. As far as i am concerned , I do have several Play:1 and i was wondering if it would be possible to add an IN-LINE connector (as Play:5 have) ... because i want to be able to connect Bluetooth receiver on two of my PLAY:1 ? Do you think you could make such video to explain how to tinker this ?

[@Spiderelectron]

It might be possible to add line-in, but you would probably need a mechanical switch to select between wifi and line-in, and you wouldn't be able to stream it to your other devices unless you could somehow hack the firmware too.

[@drli296]

@@Spiderelectron So, should the line-in with switch added after PCM5101A, please?

[@jodystallings8555]

We’ll done video. I really wanted to see how to replace the woofer but you focused on the board side. Do you have a video on this?

[@jodystallings8555]

Well done….

[@camilocabrera4688]

Que programa usa para que suene.

[@enriquearce1824]

Thanks for this video... I got to the burned orange “fuse”(?) shall y connect the 24 volts source to the capacitor (Nichicom big barrel)?

[@Spiderelectron]

Hmmm. You can't just feed 24V into the switch mode supply. Did you try simply replacing the fuse?

[@agenericaccount3935]

With all the recycle mode controversy, I feel like there is a niche for just gutting the processing and dropping in a cheap Bluetooth amp on the bricked units.

[@Shenxiaoyong]

I come to this video with similar thoughts, as I already have a bt amp. but after see the circuit boards I give up.

[@enriquearce1824]

I have two P1 not getting power. How would you suggest to replace the power supply with a Boost Converter Voltage Regulator? Shall I take out the full power supply board you are showing in 9:18 . (sorry for any miss spell or grammar mistake - English is my second language)

[@Spiderelectron]

I would first try to repair the existing supply. But if that is not possible, then you could cut the PSU tracks at the final output stage (before the output caps) and wire in a boost convertor there. I have not looked at exactly what voltages the PSU supplies, but I would imagine it generates at least 2 separate supplies one for the logic (probably 5V) and one for the Amplifier - could be anything up to 32V. But be careful, because I am just guessing! Maybe I should do a follow up video, with a more detailed look at the PSU and also see if it would be possible to add LINE-IN.

[@salmanjaz]

I have a sonos play one Butt there is no power show. Power supply is ok butt no led on speaker on or blinking please help me.

[@Spiderelectron]

Very difficult to diagnose at a distance. If you are sure the power-lead is OK, then I'd suggest it will be the switched-mode supply. It has a protection fuse. You can see me point to it at 9:18 in the video. Start there. If the fuse is bad, then ask yourself what could have caused this fuse to blow.

[@julianbell8127]

is it possible to reconfiger the standard power output to a high value?

[@Spiderelectron]

The power output is dictated by the Class-D amp chip. and the power supply voltage. I imagine it is already optimised for best output.

[@ritulsoni1217]

Hey what if i take apart my play one and add a bluetooth/wifi module in the pcie express slot. Do you think i will be able to play music through bluetooth then?

[@Spiderelectron]

I would doubt it, as the firmware in the Sonos board won't be setup for it. However there's nothing to stop you trying.

[@stephan133]

Did you try it? Did it work?

[@RBold2]

How difficult would it be to paint these speakers

[@Spiderelectron]

There are different materials, metal and plastic, and the grill has fabric on the rear, so it would be an interesting project, but not impossible.

[@greenthirteen1234]

Cool thx

[@npaisnel]

Wonder if you can help me out with my dead Play 1. It was a freebie, given to me as a dead'un. Does not power on..Yes, checked the power lead, tried new one, 240 volt arrives ar the white Molex connector. When it is powered on , nothing happens, no LED, no ethernet lights, so you mention a fuse own the board..is that a usable link..the yellow component..not picked the hot melt glue off yet. Or a Switch mode PSU issue? Any ideas? If you are in the UK and I can't easily get it going ...IE if it is not as simple as the 2 amp fuse, then you can have it..if you want it.

[@npaisnel]

Umm.. Brown cylinder is the fuse ? Was thinking the fuse was the bead capacitor looking device...but that brown cylinder has no continuity across the pins on the back of the board. No power at th point son the first coil TP366 and TP 358 Was tempted to unsolder that cylinder, or even short it out across the back..with some thin usable link..but think I'll wait till you reply.

[@npaisnel]

Well I replaced the 2a fuse across the back of the board, connected it again and "BANG" it went again. noticed a burnt component further up the chain, by the small transformer near a SMD transistor/FET. So gave up on that and just fed in 24 volt from external power supply and it works . have ordered a Meanwell LRS 75-24 and a 150W DC-DC boost convertor. SO I can run it off a 12Volt battery

[@Spiderelectron]

@@npaisnel What a great fix! Definitely sounds like a major issue on the SMPS, but I like the idea of using the 12 V battery. Make sure you air-seal any holes you use for feed-in wires, or better still feed the 12 V in through the mains jack, but make sure no-one ever connects it to mains! Any non-airtight holes will affect the sound quality.

[@npaisnel]

@@Spiderelectron Annoyingly I only thought of feeding 12v through the old power port AFTER I cut a hole for the 2 core just above the Ethernet port. Ordered a meanwell 75W supply at 24v and a step up boost convertor, like £8.00 each on amazon, so can choose if I feed via 12 or 240 once I get them down. Thinking of mounting in a bo, with 12volt battery, and solar panel. so I can leave outdoors in the camping/BBQ area. Sound quality in this case will be comprimised any how. Might even disconnect internal speaker and fit boating/ marine speaker in the waterproof box.

[@Spiderelectron]

@@npaisnel Nice one!

[@jaydawg7820]

I will NEVER buy a SONO speaker .... FFS its a damn speaker ....There is plenty of speakers to chose from that aren't 'attached' to the company after you buy them ....

[@Spiderelectron]

:-)

[@jamescollins6085]

I'm tempted to purchase a broken Play 5 just to harvest the nice drivers from it and build my own speaker as a bit of a weekend project.

[@figit090]

Who else is here to see how to un-brick or steal internal components for other projects?

[@Wolftec3]

Thank you always wondered what the watts were. I wonder what they say on second gen Play 5 www.ti.com/product/TPA3116D2

[@doug3757]

Speak up please

[@Spiderelectron]

Hi @doug Thanks for your feedback. I'm aware the volume is a problem. I am looking at ways to get better sound quality. :-)

[@claudiosalvatore754]

Sonos in an insult to music.. I had clockradio's better than that:(

[@claudiosalvatore754]

@Alden Buyer You bet i did. Way much better dan this plastic-fantastic dead-noise piece of crap.