Spoilboard Surfacing Like A Pro - Toolpath Under 4min!

[@TwinSummitDesigns]

There is a big difference between what is flat and what is level when it comes to surfacing your CNC spoilboard / wasteboard. This is an easy way to set up a toolpath you can reuse again and again, and, it only takes a few min to set this up. Make sure you check out the next video as well on how to create a grid for your spoilboard / wasteboard.

[@TheVectorious]

Thank you for this. I’ve watched a lot of spoiled board tutorials, and I just never had one that was this easy to follow.

[@TwinSummitDesigns]

You are welcome! Thank you for the feedback as well.

[@MitchellsWoodwork]

Excellent info, especially the "x+14=" VCarve Pro trick!

[@starhawke380]

Im just getting into this with a cheap 3018pro. I recently made my first spoilboard and did a similar run. My problem of course is that the 3018 only has a 1/8" collet with 1/8" bits... It took a while to make the first one. Ive since ordered a new collet for 1/4" bits. It goes a bit faster now. Im enjoying your vids, keep them coming!

[@TwinSummitDesigns]

Thanks very much for the comment! Really appreciate that. I recently went the other way funny enough and got a 1/8 collet for a bit I ordered in the wrong size. I really want to get more content out as well in the new year. Been quite a challenge trying to do that while having to complete orders at the same time.

[@gaiustacitus4242]

For accuracy it is not necessary that a machine tool be level, BUT it must be precisely out of level the same amount when measured on each side of the X and Y axes, respectively. Otherwise, the surface may be relatively flat but there will be a twist in the axes. This will result in the Z-axis changing orientation slightly as it traverses the X and Y axes. For woodworking projects, the amount of error introduced for length, width, and thickness is usually insignificant. Most woodworking projects can be off by 1/32" and no one will notice so long as the joints match. However, an out of level condition could cause problems when milling parts which must fit together precisely. This is the reason why machinists who produce parts to fine tolerances of less than 0.001" always level the machine tools, verify the distance between linear guide rails is less than 0.0001" different and the height is also less than 0.0001" different from one end to the other along each axis, tram the head so that it is less than 0.0001" different from one side to the other along the extended swing arm the indicator is mounted in, and adjust the gibs to remove excess play. While gibs aren't present in hobby grade CNC machines, the other alignment techniques can be performed.

[@TwinSummitDesigns]

Thanks for taking the time to watch and leave such a detailed comment. Much appreciated.

[@PiefacePete46]

I really enjoyed your video, and I have Liked & Subscribed. It did leave me with an unanswered question... If you flatten your spoilboard the way you describe at 0:40, the cutter will ALWAYS be the same distance from the surface, because the cutter just machined it. However: If any of your rails has a bow in it, the board will not be flat. If one end of a Z axis rail is higher than the opposite side, the board will not be flat. At the end you used a straightedge to demonstrate. It would have been clearer to use this at the start as well, but you must check from corner to corner. Only if your machine is accurate and calibrated will you get a flat spoilboard.

[@TwinSummitDesigns]

Hey John! Thanks very much for your comment. I agree with what you said. If your machine has defects then you will have issues. Best to take care of those first I reckon else it will drive you nuts with inconsistent results. Not sure what CNC you have, but these Onfinity CNC's are built like a tank. Not to say they absolutely faultless or won't ever have issues though. Anyway, I might do another video on this topic soon and I will take on board what you mentioned. Thanksa gain!

[@JoeThomas-yn7kl]

Thanks

[@TwinSummitDesigns]

You are welcome!

[@christiantardieu7561]

Good to know Thank you for everything

[@TheCrawlspaceCraftsman]

Nice!!!

[@podman63]

Very nice explanation but what about a grid system say 25 x 25 mm vbit tool path cut into mdf to aid in positioning your projects just a thought 🤔

[@TwinSummitDesigns]

Thanks very for the comment. Much appreciated. I will be uploading that hopefully later today. Wanted to keep this one to the point. :)

[@alinmarianbalasa9331]

The video I was looking for. Just one question, how do set the speed on the router and feed rate on vcarve for that diameter? I am asking for the calculations, my hit it’s 35mm, I don’t want to break it or something. Thank you.

[@TwinSummitDesigns]

Hey Alin! Glad that halped. I started with a chart I made to find the correct speed, but it got complicated not knowing exactly what the router was doing. So, the easiest workaround for me is to just start it at a high speed (4 or 5 even) and then I dial it back once it gets going till I see more chips than fine dust. You will be able to to tell by the sound of it as well if it is too slow. You can pretty much tell it it struggling to keep up. As long as you do shallow passes you will be fine. I do 1mm at a time on this job to keep as much of the spoilboard as possible. With that depth it would be hard to break a bit I reckon. Hope that helps!?

[@phlexy]

How long does the surfacing takes? I need a planer but im thinking about getting a CNC instead, one similar to your so im interested in how long it takes.

[@TwinSummitDesigns]

Interesting question. Are you referring to a thicknesser/planer or a hand planer? I sometimes use my CNC to get a flat surface on one side of a slab I need to engrave for a customer, but usually after I put it through a planer first to remove the bulk. As for how long that takes, it depends on a number of things like how hard the wood is, what feed rate you are using and so forth. MDF like this spoilboard is soft so you could go a bit faster. From memory, that took about 7min or so to complete, but I cant recall what my settings were exactly. It would make a very expensive planer though if that is the main purpose for getting one. :) But, I know that is not the only thing you would use it for! It's a very good robust machine overall.

[@phlexy]

@@TwinSummitDesigns thanks for the answers. I'm building my own so the cost won't be that high. A good planer would cost the same, but then I can only plane. I'm ok with it taking a long time planning as I'll gain other functions too.

[@JD-nq4vb]

I'm assuming the +14 means plus 14mm? You did not clarify.

[@TwinSummitDesigns]

That is right. My software is set up to work in mm but if you are using inches it would be the same.

[@JD-nq4vb]

@@TwinSummitDesigns Thanks, I just wanted to be sure. Appreciate your quick reply. Have fun!

[@TwinSummitDesigns]

@@JD-nq4vb You are welcome! Same to you.

[@christiantardieu7561]

Can you share the feed and speed, Just to a comparison point to my preset

[@TwinSummitDesigns]

Hey Christian! Sorry, for the late reply. I have been flat-out busy with a bunch of orders. I will have to check that for you in the file I created. Generally, I start with a higher speed setting (around 4 or 5 on the router) and as soon as it touches the material, I manually slow it down till I see chips and no fine dust. That way I can run almost any feed (depending on the specs for that bit). Way easier than going back and forth trying to dial it in with the software for the specific material or stock you are using. But I will have a look and post it here.