Sport Climbing 101 - Cleaning the anchor

[@Rankidu]

As others already said, this is the best video on youtube on cleaning anchors: there's no need to reinvent the wheel, he shows the correct, standard tecnique in a simple and visually clear way. This is fool's proof, I find very hard to make an error with this method.

[@MilanHerens]

This video deserves so much more views, I've watched all of the "high view count" video's about this. All great video's but this was the most visual understanding of them all, well explained and nice and slow. I was looking for a good video to practice this as I go outdoors for the first time(with experienced climbers) and she asked if I knew how to clean an anchor... I had no clue what she was on about and this will safe me this weekend! Will be using your video to practice every day untill the weekend hits :D THANKS DUDE!

[@markrogerson2026]

Thanks, that's very kind. I Hope you have a great time on the rock.

[@snkytrtl]

The pacing on this was great. Thanks for your help. You’re a natural teacher

[@Madxlyn]

This is a great video! Very simple but also very correct. Thank you for helping me!

[@AZDesertExplorer]

The voice of Michael Caine, the wisdom of a Sherpa.

[@darkmatter5310]

Excellent and simple complete explinations, thanks for sharing.

[@jgm9991]

This vid is better than the AAC's!

[@ticalamarian8500]

very nice explanation, thank you!

[@DylanBekker]

This explanation was so clear and easy to understand. Thank you kind sir 🫡.

[@crispycrimps865]

Really well explained. Well done.

[@lipczan]

very cool video, thank you!

[@IliaNadyrbayev]

Top notch video mate, perfect. Exactly how I'd teach it and will be linking this many times over. Much better than all the other American videos

[@hormones9710]

Very good explanation.

[@paulmrodriguez]

Good video

[@sawtmac]

Hı, what if We couldnt finish up the route and we want to clean up?

[@Furansowakun]

Nice video thanks :)

[@beingaware8542]

Great video. One point i guess i could add is if your going to have a lot of rope tail your tying up and clipping to your harness clip to your belay loop instead of the weak gear loop on the side. Always choose the strong, redundant option if you can. Great video thanks!

[@markrogerson2026]

Thanks for the comment, I get your point about the tail of spare rope but it is exactly that - spare rope. Attaching it to your main belay loop would only risk confusion when checking you have attached the primary figure of eight on a bight to your harness.

[@pascaljutras178]

Great video ! Doing good technic is critical, also make sure you are mentally in good condition to avoid mistake. I mean dont put yourself in trouble by getting completely exhausted in top because you did not took enough water with you, resulting in dangerous dehydration at the top anchor. Dont climb with sun facing the route at 30 C, high chances of potential insulation at wrong timing. Make sure to eat enough, your brain need energy when it comes the time to apply these technics. Dont climb after a little 2 hrs of sleep....

[@DekarNL]

The 1st method I just Chuck the rope end over my shoulder

[@thisisgettingold]

From my experience it's better to anchor to both hangars rather than only one. Something like a Metolius PAS is better than a single sling. I have seen rockfall cut right through a sling. Your top rope draws are safer if they have a locker at least on the rope-end, Metolius also sells anchor draws that have a locking biner on both ends.

[@markrogerson2026]

Thanks for your comments. While I would always clip to both anchors on a multi pitch route I personally don’t at the top of a single pitch sport climb. This method of cleaning the anchors ensures you are always on belay. Yes, there is a significant amount of rope out but if the single tether anchor fails (either the bolted anchor blowing out or thru significant rockfall) you are still on belay. You make a good point about screw gates, the use of two carabineers back to back makes the chances of the rope coming unclipped negligible, though If one was setting up a top rope to leave for multiple people (rather than just a partner) then I might consider the added security of using locking carabiners.