Stair Building Tips For Those Using Pavers or Other Products To Support Bottom of Stringers

[@ninehundreddollarluxuryyac5958]

Impressive approach to information delivery. "You're not wrong to do it that way but let me suggest some improvements." Brilliant! Amazing how few presenters consider this method of introduction instead of complaining about "so many I see wrong and here's how".

[@peterbarlow8912]

Here in New England landing your stringers on shallow blocks will let frost heave the stairs up and down working the top attachment loose. Also crossblocks should be installed between the stringers at the bottom to keep them from rolling over.

[@leecowell8165]

That's called bridging, Peter.

[@WardNH]

Just had to replace a set of rotted out deck steps that I had assumed were just set on the ground (previous owner had done so with two other sets of steps). Once I got them out, I discovered there were three pavers underneath the stringers that had sunk and skewed in the ground. Considered repurposing them for the new set, but at the end of the day the amount of time you'll spend leveling and compacting, installing gravel base, buying additional pavers, etc. it just seemed to make the most sense to do a proper concrete pad.

[@gladysorama]

I am dealing with this exact situation for my home. Which is also why I’m here 😂

[@joireland]

An issue you may be missing is that you should place 1/2" crushed stone under those pavers and cut an area at least 1 foot around those pavers for that crushed stone so grass and soil doesn't make its way on top of those pavers. If that happens it would cause the wood to rot. Unfortunately, I experienced that myself for my own stairs. It took about 15 years for that to occur but it did occur and I was forced to completely replace my runners. Other than that all your points were bang on. Another point you may be missing is that your local building code may require you to put railing on those stairs if the stairs are taller than 30" (that depends on your local area's building code though).

[@markoshun]

Good ideas. I don’t typically cut back the soil a foot as that would change the aesthetic in many cases, but I get why you are doing it. What I do is make sure the bottoms of the stringers are saturated with preservative and add 1/4” plastic pads/spacers to keep them from direct contact. They look like they are floating on the grass. 15 years is not too bad, but with a couple of your tweaks, probably get 20-25+. At my age, now I can offer lifetime warranties.. 🤣

[@joireland]

Hey Mark a nice touch with the plastic pads (I haven't run across those yet). I think we both agree that the rear supports should also have pavers underneath them as well (I missed that in my first comment).

[@markoshun]

@@joireland I’ve never seen anything marketed for that either. I just use thick plastic/rubber and make them myself. Don’t know what you mean by rear supports. Depending on the situation/design, I’ll sometimes plant my rail posts in cement and attach the stair stringers to them. Nice and solid, no bouncing stairs or wobbly handrails.

[@PacesIII]

I'm remodeling a place where what I thought was the bottom step is actually the second. The bottom step is rotted out and I'm afraid the stringer might be as well. I have pavers, but never thought about using them under there. I figured they're too brittle for that. Guess I'll be digging out the bottom to see what surprises await me under that buried bottom step...when I get that far.

[@leecowell8165]

I just used a bundle of roof shingles here in Florida as my concern was rot of the PT. the main issue is you don't want that PT being in direct contact with soil. its worked very well.

[@ws775]

We did a cement pad. 18 years and still good.

[@Music-gz5pz]

In New Jersey Architects detail stringers to bear on a frost cut slab or footing to prevent frost heave.

[@xAnAngelOfDeathx]

Pro Tip: Where the stringers meet the concrete footing, drill holes near (1.5" from each edge) the front and rear of each stringer and install a lag bolts in each hole. Deduct the thickness of the head of the lagbolts from the bottom tread stringer rise calculation. The lag bolts will prevent the wood from direct contact with moisture and will ensure a longer life for the stringers.

[@BlumpkinSpiceLatte]

That's actually how I did the stairs going to my deck. The way I got around the trip hazard is I used 12 pavers to make a landing at the bottom of the steps. Bonus points if the pavers are set in the ground, sloping away from the stairs so it's a smooth transition from the ground around the stairs to the pavers, and the slope is there so water is directed away from the stringers.

[@bobblacka918]

Pavors should never be used for construction projects. They are made with inferior concrete and deteriorate with age. Instead, use actual solid concrete blocks or half blocks. Those are made to a specification and will last decades with no deterioration. Bury them if they are too thick and that will make them even more stable.

[@patrickbureau1402]

Hay COUZIN - btw - up here ground freeze heaves pavers that need resetting overtime🇨🇦

[@nickk9202]

Mine just sit on the ground. Worked fine for about 35 years already.

[@mrcryptozoic817]

Mine too. But mine are only 4 ft elevation change. And i used R R ties strapped together with Simpson banding.

[@stairbuilding]

I've seen it last long also and hope it lasts even longer.

[@SP6X6]

I work on custom homes in our area.Last stairs I built landed on a large landscape rock set with excavater.This had a large sono tube and concrete and gravel under it.

[@leecowell8165]

My stairs are entirely different. For one I don't have traditional stringers because I only need a 24" high platform height from the ground. I also use 2 X 4's for steps spanning 24" so I don't need a middle stringer. My steps are 3, 2 by's on the flat for a 10.5" step with no bull nose. I also have rails on both sides as I'm an invalid with 5/24 or 4.8" per (call it 4 3/4" total step height... close enough). worked great to access my RV which I live in on someone's property.

[@brianmorgan1204]

I put down about 3 to 4inches of crushed stone (packed down) with the pavers sitting at grade. It's working fine after five years. We'll see how it is in another five.

[@stairbuilding]

Awesome and let's hope for another 20 years.

[@torrycole6477]

I put a 2x4 under the front edge of the stringers. Notch the center two stringers, so all the stringers are connected by more that the tread. Makes it easier to level the set of stairs

[@pcatful]

Great. I wouldn't use pavers myself for over 3 risers, but it seems OK for informal steps, as long as you realize it's not a permanent solution and requires maintenance now and then. I am reminded of the Japanese traditional steps off a verandah right down to the gravel. Some may have been set on sunken stones. I think some of them were even movable. For designing for others, though, or getting a permit, I don't do this.

[@catherinelagrande7836]

Well done!

[@joesmith-t2z]

At Habitat we run 2 x4's down the sides of the stringers. two on the middle stringer, one on each side stringer.

[@ActionEar]

Thanks for all your videos and graphics and sharing your expertise, very helpful in building my first deck stairs. Why is it std. practice to bolt a wood 2x directly to the concrete landing to support the stringers? Isn't this an obvious place where we should attempt to keep the water runoff down the concrete away from the wood stairs? I kept my decks' main support beams off the concrete pylons with Simpson Strongtie galvanized base offsets, but I found noone at Simpson or Mitek has ever considered offsetting the stringers from the concrete. Can you explain why/offer solutions? Thanks. (I'm in S. Ohio)

[@scottmueller550]

Building codes in some areas, you to set on a cement slab with a foundation depth beyond the frost line to prevent the slab from rising from the ground freeze .

[@rrsteamer]

I found that be using concrete lintels on top of crushed stone works pretty good. Frost heaving is reduced but not eliminated. Heavy to deal with, but much more stable in the long run. Over the long term about every 10 to 15 years some rework of the stone underneath maybe necessary. We used red quarry tile glued to the lintels and if used they need to be sealed (sprayed or brushed) every year or two to prevent freeze damage on the bottom course. Minor work but that will extend replacement. BTW, have had to replace a few of the tiles, but the lintels continue on. Not perfect but another option. This is used for a front entrance two step application to the porch.

[@stairbuilding]

Thanks for sharing.

[@shanehanson7514]

These are great videos... im going to dig more through your videos for this question. But heres my question. Im building a entery way deck with a ADA ramp. Going out over a concrete driveway thats 5" thick. I have proper footings for the deck. But my ramp being 25 feet long I want to add a post 4x4 at 8feet and want to fasten to the concrete driveway. And lag bolt to the ramp stringer. The hieght of the platform is 23inchs so a 1:12 would be 23 feet. I went 25 feet to be well within code. Do i need to cut holes in this driveway to sink footing for the ramp post or is the driveway enough. I see all kinds of videos of guys building ramps and none cutting up driveways to sink footings. I live in MN ... would love to know the answer to this.

[@johnschuster9192]

Concrete is best and don't forget a piece of tar paper under the steps to help with the moisture wick

[@elink786]

Thanks ❤❤❤

[@stairbuilding]

You're welcome 😊

[@meltuc2594]

I like to add lag bolts on the bottom of the stringer. Keeps the strings from sitting on a moist surface. This keep the moister from weeping into the wood, especially if wood is not treated

[@pcatful]

Good point, but how do lag bolts do this? Please explain. You screw them on the underside of each stringer?

[@cdnpont]

I think a proper concrete pad is probably best, but in a pinch, what is your opinion of adding a layer of 2 1/2" Blue styrofoam below the slabs. I've heard it can be done in a way that will minimize frost heaving. Thanks for the video.

[@fairgolfer]

Good question. I saw a shed foundation in Russia done the same way. The builder spoke very highly of it.

[@Dragonfly_vbz]

Excellent points! Ty!

[@stairbuilding]

My pleasure!

[@zachgoestoeuro]

Is it possible to use pavers if the stairs require a newel?

[@stairbuilding]

I think it's possible, but it might not be strong enough to meet codes.

[@CraftyRoseDentalinstructor.]

pavers work great for years and years ,,,,,,,,,,

[@lewisf9266]

What about freezing lifting the supports

[@stairbuilding]

It could happen and deeper footing below frost lines might be considered.

[@JWARD3045]

I built such a stair in Ohio about 15 years ago. The problem that has erupted is stringer wood rot. The notch cut into the stringer exposes end grain. Water has entered the end grain, travelled diagonally down the stringer, and caused wood rot. This exposed end grain should be sealed or flashed, even if the stringer members are pressure treated.

[@chrisimming9454]

I didn't expect the dang paver on the right hand side of the steps to sink an inch or so. which sucks

[@TexasEngineer]

What about the frost zone?

[@stairbuilding]

I think that's the reason most do it yourselfers use pavers, so they can re-adjust them when or if they ever move.

[@gwennpfishman6420]

I had contractor build my deck with stairs and now I have ditch in front of my stairs. I am concerned the wood is going to rot and I am going to get pool water here. Thoughts??

[@stairbuilding]

I would consider installing a site drain or moving some soil around to create drainage. You could also remove one step if that would help.

[@igfoobar]

Pier blocks solve most of these problems.

[@Smarterthanyou-mthrfkr]

Mistake. I did it. Now i gotta fix it.

[@tomdamon7208]

I see this all the time re" riser height . Also , securing the stringers at the bottom . It is the result of lack of training or just being lazy .

[@jksouthern]

Are these stairs for Fort Knox, or just for the average household? Come on.

[@stairbuilding]

If it doesn't make sense, then...

[@donatolosa]

Dig down 1' add 6" crushed stone 2" ridged insulation then 4" concrete. Then walk away.