Starting Guide to printing resin quality minis on FDM printer

[@L480N3R]

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I found the fat dragon profile a while back and started using the Sunlu meta filament but have been pulling my hair out over stringy models and inconsistent print failures. The failures you showcased were exactly the issues that I was going through and dialing in the temp on the profile have been giving me flawless prints now and more hair on my head!

[@ScytheNoire]

The meta filaments have a lower melting point than most and are very susceptible to stringing. They are designed for higher flow and faster speeds, so not great for the application of detailed models. I too ran into issues first time I used them, and noticed how fast they flow. Beware of high flow filaments.

[@jasoneiserman549]

Your comment is precisely what I needed. Got the 0.2 nozzle, got the Sunlu Meta, got the FatDragonGames profile, but totally unimpressed. Elegoo PLA+ has performed better and is stronger on the profile, and even then I got some settings on reddit that performed leagues better. Going to try again with these settings!

[@MartinDubuque]

These look great. I want someone to do some comparisons between resin vs fdm, but AFTER they've been painted. For someone who's a super master painter, resin probably wins, but I wonder if the difference is even noticeable for an average painter.

[@GameDayMinis]

I would absolutely want to do this. A friend had a resin printer. I will print a few minis and paint them. Then si a compare between them. Great idea. Thank you

[@minisarefuntopaint]

@@GameDayMinis That's a video I'd be interested in seeing.

[@kalganum]

Thank you for this video. Combination of Bambu printer + Sunlu Meta provide great results! Would you mind sharing the reference to the designer making support less minis? Resin printer will always win when minis get too many details and too thin parts but they re still a lot of nice minis we can print with FDM and still having a great tabletop piece. So far the main issue i encounter is the positioning of the mini and settings of supports when they are not design support-less. As pla supports leave scars that need to be treated :). Any tips and tricks you might have to share? TY

[@stuartsmith6823]

Great video , I am contemplating between the A1 mini vs A1. What made you choose the A1 Mini over the A1? With all the add ons required dry box etc it looks to cost 400 dollars for the A1 mini. and 500 for the A1

[@tyshchenkoserhii]

I have A1 mini Combo and it's awesome. The only wish I have for it - bigger print plate for printing terrian (houses mainly)

[@austin4170]

Do you print the temp tower with the .2mm nozzle?

[@Dominik189]

Hmm the 100% soeed is weird. Does it hold true for printers like the Kobra 2 from Anycubic? Cause I imagine printing at 150mms might be an issue when printing minis.

[@polysteamgaming]

100% speed? Are you sure? I am using a k1 and let it set itself up on a 0.4 nozzle using a 0.1 height. It turns out badly. It sets the speed for each part separately andpeople say use 200 degrees but the printer sets itself to like 230. I also saw someone using the same settings as me but got better prints. I get uneven layers or skew layers. Have you any experience with a creality k1?

[@CreationDominion]

The k1 is your issue

[@dragonscales89]

At the beginning of the video they say to use a .2 nozzle. This will slow speeds down automatically due to the what nozzle is being used as long as you tune your printer for it. All settings are based on that nozzle size .2

[@dustingomez1670]

where are the dead bodies from?

[@KT-pv3kl]

The print quality of your fdm prints is quite impressive but you have to be absolutely blind and in denial to even think about comparing them to the level of detail and surface finish of resin printers.

[@simonak9699]

"Resin quality". That 0.2mm FDM nozzle is 200 microns. The 400$ midrange Saturn 4 resin printer is 19 microns.

[@madshader]

wtf is this resolution? Get on a PC, man

[@LordNerfherder]

Bro pls. Fdm prints are not going to be great. Things like faces will look absolute garbage in comparison to resin. They can be passable but you will do better to just group up with a friend or two and share a resin printer. I have an x1c bambu with 0.2 and the quality is unacceptable to me. It is so far from resin and gw plastic that the money saved does not make up for the lack of quality. Completely unacceptable. Please never claim resin quality from fdm printers. It is plain clickbait lies. It can however be passable for trying a model or similar. It can print terrain or space marine tank sides (flat). But humanoids just does not work the results are absolute garbage. An fdm is reduced to the simple prints - like a bike body or tank side. Or terrain pieces. Yet a lot of post processing is required. Buy a resin orinter or buy the printed resin models from a friend with a printer in your wargaming communities. All communities have plenty as resin are so good quality right now. Not even just this - the soft or abs like resins are fantastic. Much less brittle than the pla you suggested. They are models, but subpar. Not the miniatures you are proud about.

[@GameDayMinis]

Thank you for the feedback! I appreciate your thoughtful comments. While I agree that you won't get the same quality, some folks simply can't print resin for a number of reasons. This video tries to help those get in the best quality out of their FDM printer. Will look to improve the videos in the future!!

[@TheOne-gj9tz]

@@GameDayMinis folks like me!!! This video is awesome and provided great insight on improving my prints. I don't have anybody I know with resin and wanted to achieve similar or passably similar results and this has helped! Thank you GameDayMinis!

[@GameDayMinis]

@@TheOne-gj9tz Awesome! glad it was helpful. I am planning similar videos in the future. Consider subscribing to get notified of future updates. Happy printing!

[@DungeonsAndDerps]

Resin Printers are not available for everyone. It's not even about the money, it's about the space they need, the dangerous materials, the clean-up after print. Is FDM as good as Resin? No, I give you that. Can you make it "good enough" with some tweaks and post-print fixes? Yes. And no, "sharing" a Resin Printer is just as unlikely. So it comes down to either "FDM Prints" or "No Prints at all."

[@tartatovsky]

@@DungeonsAndDerps haha yeah, OP's suggestion for sharing a printer is so dumb lol. Having a resin printer is a commitment, the fact that OP assumed that the average joe would have a group of casual peeps to just group up and pool money to get a very pricey piece of tech is laughable at best