Stationmaster 1967 Dual Standard TV

This is a video of a recently acquired 1967 Stationmaster Dual Standard B/W TV.

[@triodehexode]

The plastic gaurd on the front of the CRT is an implosion gaurd used before direct view Rimband tubes came out. Pye Ekco Feranti used same chassis Pye and Philips also had a tie in with radios in the 60s.

[@imagineer5765]

@triodehexode Yes, I later realised that. I didn't know they came in this rubber variety. I have only seen the plastic guards.

[@Thomas-yr9ln]

My grandmother got one similar to this when I was 12 years old. I used to envy it because kids used to not have a TV in their own room back in day. My uncle bought it brand new for his mum.

[@stickytapenrust6869]

“Radiant Screen” was Mullard’s brand of re-gunned CRTs, so that TV has been serviced before.

[@imagineer5765]

@stickytapenrust6869 Interesting! That's good to know.

[@FrankJCarver]

I think the gap in the trim is meant to be there, because I have an old 1970 G.E.C. monochrome TV, which is similar in design to your TV on the front and that has a gap.

[@markpirateuk]

The maker is Invcta, a sub brand of Pye, Stationmaster is the model name.

[@BG101UK]

I have a Pye 48 which is basically the same set with different trim/finish and the two controls are side-by-side. Also produces an excellent picture, especially on 405. That tuner can be configured for 625 VHF and also 405 UHF so with a 405-line VHS recording you can hook up straight to the aerial socket, without a standards convertor or custom modulator in the chain. I'm prepared to make one or two if you need them. Let me know what material you would like e.,g. test cards, etc.. (I'm new to your channel, don't know what you already have).

[@triodehexode]

Would change caps that have high voltage on them especialy those on control grids. Change the mains filter cap usually accross mains switch they go bang. Lovely Picture on that. In the mid 70s Watched the Prisoner on monochrome Bush dual standard 161 sharp as a pin but liniarity was out a bit which made the penny farling on the titles look a bit egg shaped. be seeing you!

[@imagineer5765]

@triodehexode I will change those high voltage caps then. Also, I loved that story haha! Be seeing you.

[@stevesje71]

Shouldn’t use Vaseline. It will melt and is not a great high voltage insulator. Use EHT silicon grease

[@ianedwards468]

Hi, Thanks for making the video on this one. I’ve never heard of the Stationmaster brand - not a name owned or used by Pye as far as I know. It could have been used by a small rental company (most people rented their tellies at the time) or it might have been used by one of the home shopping catalogues which had various ‘house brands’ I agree with @triodehexode on replacement of any wax paper caps which are subject to high voltage, but would advise against wholesale replacement of capacitors. There is a risk you end up introducing faults by doing this. The main smoothing electrolytic looks to be in good condition and I think I can spot a few Mullard ‘Mustard’ capacitors in there (yellowish with rounded ends). These are usually very reliable. The plastic covering over the screen is indeed there to guard against implosion. Later models used twin-panel CRTs which did not require this. If you remove the CRT (I would advise against doing this) make sure you were eye protection as these things can go off like a grenade if struck in the wrong place. The implosion protection must be reinstalled with the CRT. Keep an eye on how warm the LOPT (flyback) gets - if the set has been unused for a long time moisture is likely to have formed within the windings and this will need to be driven out. Operating the set over time will help with this but turn it off if you find the LOPT gets hot to the touch Anyway good luck with the restoring it, the CRT looks to in excellent condition. Cheers Ian

[@EmeraldHill-vo1cs]

Whats the vaseline do? Ive got a huge samsung but its from the time they stopped putting all the knobs on the back, saved all the work of taking the back off. Been running nonstop for 7-8 years, brilliant sound.

[@imagineer5765]

It's not essential but it helped in this case. It basically acts as a sort of dielectric grease. It just helps stop dust and stuff from getting underneath the anode cap.

[@EmeraldHill-vo1cs]

@@imagineer5765 logical

[@Timothycan]

Definitely any 'waxies' need to go. They are nearly always leaky, and in any case they can't be trusted. They can damage other components, especially if they are between the anode of the last stage and the grid of the next, since if they are leaky they will put a positive potential on the grid and turn the valve on hard, damaging the valve and perhaps other components too. Same with electrolytics - just can't be trusted when they are that old. The flat caps with small (picofarads) values are usually OK and often resistors are OK too. Sometimes you can 're-stuff' old caps, of course, especially if they are more visible. Thanks for sharing. I would love to see that working on 405 line!

[@imagineer5765]

Thanks for the comment. Lots of good info. Much appreciated!

[@Thomas-yr9ln]

The yellow gunk you wiped off of it meens the TV belonged to a smoker in the past.

[@SimonBlandford]

And if it is really yellow and gunky then it was probably a pipe smoker! Certainly the case with one old TV I had. I thought the picture was just dim until I wiped the screen.

[@marty-fh1rw]

Not heard of this brand.

[@EvilCensor]

Gap in the beading @3:30 is supposed to be there, it just shouldn't be as pronounced. The beading is a straight piece that is bent to fit during manufacturing.

[@imagineer5765]

Good to know. Thanks!