Step-By-Step RV Water Heater Troubleshooting and Repair | DIY

[@hwallis143]

Thanks fixed our issue by following your video

[@RVwithTito]

Great job! Glad to help 👍

[@johnmoore-tz1hu]

Brian Thank you for posting this video. We have only been in an RV full time since June of 2023. I was able to save some money and diagnose a dirty igniter by watching. I appreciate you sir. Have a wonderful day!

[@RVwithTito]

Really glad it helped you fix your issue. You're very welcome!

[@michelpaulcote156]

The best video I have seen on RV water heaters. Thanks. We now have the Truma but I have many friends using the Attwood and this video covers all the troubleshooting aspects. Many thanks. You should do the exact same for the heater... Love your videos.👍

[@RVwithTito]

I appreciate that. My heater hasn't failed me yet :) but I know the controllers are very similar.

[@B-in-Norva]

Your repair videos are AWESOME and should be mandatory viewing for rv owners!

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks! Tell your friends 😃

[@explor794]

you can learn anything with KZbin thanks to people like you without a certification

[@mgkleym]

This is very well timed for me personally. I bought a 20 year old dolphin motorhome last fall and on the way home with it cross country I discovered that the water heater is very reluctant to light and I often have to cycle it multiple times until it lights. Now I should be able to diagnose the issue myself. It looks like a simple fairly well though out system. Thanks for making videos like this.

[@RVwithTito]

You're welcome. Hope you're able to get it sorted out.

[@hooterfivesix]

Thank you, Tito. This is the best explanation of the burner ignitor placement and operation I've found. I was an HVAC tech long ago and RVs are a completely different animal than residential. I've been struggling with my burner tube ignitor. Somehow, it became bent out of position to sense the flame ("Somehow" means it was my fault) Keep up the good work!

[@RVwithTito]

Glad it helped

[@brianennis5553]

1 am a HVACR tech. For twenty five years now as I am retired and not handing stuff every day I find gaps in my memory and myself looking at these videos more and more.

[@RVwithTito]

I can't remember if I forgot anything :)

[@gregcummings4075]

Absolutely the best explanation I have heard or read.

[@RVwithTito]

So glad to hear that feedback. Trying to keep it simple 😊

[@RobertJl9516]

Been watching your videos for years and this one was perfect for my 2008 Atwood water heater no start problem. You are a very good teacher and covered how this water heater works, how to test and what to do in a pinch, thank you very much.

[@cobbles62]

Very nice explanation Brian. Thank you. I have one addition that might be falling out of the scope of electrical problems but it seems worth mentioning because of what it had cost me after barely 8 years of use. Plumbing. 8 years ago I replaced our aluminum Atwood water heater. It was a simple swap not needing any other new materials but the new heater. Now I have sprung a leak at the back of the tank. The 1/8 inch thick aluminum was corroded away around the brass shark bites I used to connect the plumbing. Not sufficiently aware of how bad aluminum goes together with basically any other metal I just did the usual thing of taping the threads before screwing them in. Simple. No leaks. Job done. Now 8 years later galvanic corrosion has eaten through the beautiful aluminum tank. (That is kinda electric is it not?) I've just searched the interweb and it seems that A) it is hard to find fittings that do play nice with an aluminum tank and B) Airsream owners are (or should be) very aware of this problem 🙂 Anyway, the crucial thing to do is to put some electrical insulator between the aluminum tank and its fittings. That seems very simple to do, as a matter of fact, I did that 8 years ago while applying pfte tape on the threads. I just did not think for a moment to measure for absence of any conductivity between the fittings and the tank after tightening them down. Lesson learned. Knowing what I know now I will think twice before replacing the nylon drain plug with a nice sturdy brass one either. A whole different story is that instead of replacing that expensive Atwood heater again I am now looking into going another route, away from LP. I don't like the massive large cooling tube (otherwise known as the burn pipe) going through my hot water tank and I don't like needing to run half a gallon or more of our most precious boondocking resource through the lines before getting hot water. Paul

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks for sharing all of that. Very helpful info 👍

[@kimpanepinto3939]

Great video, not to technical so the regular DIY person can understand. Thanks!

[@texasrubies]

Exceptional video, you are very articulate and able to explain the water heater troubleshooting process so well. I bought a used RV, installed a new water pump then discovered the water heater wouldn't turn on. I read the owners manual, then the Atwoods manual and neither offered a troubleshooting guide. After watching your video I tested the thermal fuse, it was functional so I reinstalled it and the water heater turned on. I'm going to get extra thermal fuses. plus a spare thermostat and fuse. Thank you! P.S. I hope you have a video on troubleshooting the generator..... The next project, after I replace an exhaust fan and clean the AC coils.

[@RVwithTito]

Great! Glad it helped. Sounds like you had a loose connection on the fuse. Easy peazy :) Here's a generator video from a while back kzbin.info/www/bejne/i2iVi6ChZad5Y9E I also have one even older for oil changes and then another removing the generator completely. Starting issues are usually fuel related (carburetor, fuel pump or fuel filter). If it's showing error codes (blinking lights on the start switch) the it might be electrical or controller board. All of those things can be replaced. Good luck.

[@ericchat5640]

Thank you so much Tito for spending thr time and explaining things to us beginners. Your videos are usually very helpful. Keep doing what you do and help RVZ community.

[@RVwithTito]

You're welcome! I appreciate the comment. Glad the explanation helped you out. 👍

[@heximancer28]

Thanks, brother. I realized it was that fuse! FYI current flows, volage is potential, like water pressure at a closed faucet. ❤

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks. Yes. I know 😀. Just trying to keep it simple.

[@thewanderingshores]

Thanks Brian, this is why I love your videos, I now know more about our water heater then ever before and even better can troubleshoot issues myself. Super helpful- Kyle

[@RVwithTito]

That's great to hear. Happy to share what I've learned with you. 👍

[@johnleach740]

Nice video on these issues. Frequently I have heard people’s water heater out of adjustment with the air intake and emitting a louder than normal noise. Can be very loud. Just takes a couple seconds to loosen the screw and move the aluminum slotted piece. Also when adjusting the igniter important to adjust carefully to not damage the ceramic holder. Always look for cracks there. They also make a wire brush for cleaning the burner tube. To clean the orifice you soak it in alcohol for 20 minutes and don’t over tighten when replacing. Hope this helps.

[@RVwithTito]

Great! Thanks for the tips.

[@coreymerritt7742]

Great video Brian I have a 10 gallon suburban I’ve only have had issues with my igniter and like you explained I just took some emery cloth and cleaned it up no other problems thanks

[@RVwithTito]

Love those cheap fixes 😃

[@r8edrv4fun65]

THANK YOU for showing how a defective part will behave and for going into such detail 😊

[@RVwithTito]

My pleasure! I keep the failed parts just for this purpose.

[@cyndymarshall6649]

Excellent video. Easy to follow and concise. Straight forward without any goofball stuff, told me exactly what I needed to know. I will definitely subscribe :-)

[@steveparis2634]

Dude, this was an amazing tutorial. Dare I say, Master Class. Thanks for this.

[@Thesaltymedic36]

Well now I learned a lot. I’ll order a fuse, thermostat kit just in case. I have adjusted it before and it was easy. A guy at the campground told me how to do it. It was blowing black smoke. Just adjusting it to a blue flame was easy.

[@RVwithTito]

Great. Nice to have spares around. 👍

[@michaelsullivan1262]

I had this when I got to Texas for my winter stay. Luckily a lil’ wiggle of a wire on this same water heater got it figured.

[@RVwithTito]

Yeah. Loose connections are easy but sometimes hard to find. Luckily all of these are pretty accessible.

[@pipewrench64]

TITO!!! I think this is DA BESS explanation of the inner workings of a water heater EVER! Thanks, Mann, I needed something like this.

[@bobdavidson2735]

Thank you thank you! Thank you for this really detailed information! We are traveling and our water heater thermal fuse failed and I was able to troubleshoot it and get a new one installed without having to do a service call. You just saved us at least a few hundred dollars. Again, thank you

[@cullenmiller8170]

Nice video and explanation. Looks like you escaped Washington for sunnier weather. I have two things to add that might be helpful. Take your phone and take pictures of the wiring diagram and sticker with model numbers and safe them. That allows zoom and you don’t have to stand on your head to read them. When testing for voltage the meter can trick you since it shows voltage, but doesn’t load the circuit. I built a couple of test lights from taillight and headlight bulbs to substitute a load. Corroded or damaged wires or connectors can show proper voltage, but will not carry the load. The same goes for a continuity test. One strand in a wire can show the continuity, but will not carry the load. Hope it all makes sense.

[@RVwithTito]

Great tips! Good point you make about testing under load.

[@tannerjim]

Wish there was a "SUPER LIKE" button!! Great info Brian, thanks again for taking the time to explain every part of the water heater.

[@RVwithTito]

There is a SUPER LIKE button. It's labeled "Thanks" 😉 Glad you found the info useful.

[@cherimitchell8977]

Better expiation than I’ve ever seen on YT. Now I know how to troubleshoot mine. Can you please do a video on how to use a multimeter from a kindergartener starting point?

[@RVwithTito]

I have that on my idea list of video topics. You're not the only one to ask. Thanks!

[@stevemacedo771]

Great video. Did the same thing with trial and error. In the end I have all new parts.

[@RVwithTito]

Nice. Just swapped out my controller too even though it wasn't bad (just 20 yes old). Now I have the old one as a spare.

[@allancorupe5916]

Great video Tito. Just a comment. My understanding is the igniter wire is not carrying 12vdc but rather a stepped up voltage that can jump the electrode gap on the igniter.

[@RVwithTito]

I believe you're correct. Thanks for keeping me honest. I've not measured it actually...just tested for a spark.

[@arriagada1957]

Very nice video you know how to explain step by step .. sometimes with a good clean it solves the problem

[@RVwithTito]

Yes, thanks

[@waynehurlbut5388]

Thank you Brian, very helpful video. Thanks for including multi meter info.

[@RVwithTito]

Glad it helped. I plan to do a more in depth multimeter video too.

[@mikeblack3082]

Brian , love your videos, been watching your channel since I needed help with my Kwikee Steps, what 5 or 6 years ago. BUT, on this video, the voltage going to the igniter for ignition will be higher than most multimeters can handle. And you better have really good insurance by suggesting to bypass a thermal fuse or a E.C.O.

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks for the comment and correction on the igniter voltage.

[@paulevans3105]

Fixed my water heater with this video. Was that first wire you changed. Works like a gem now. Thanks

[@russellavocato2598]

great explanation of the entire process from a signal stand point. This helps a lot.

[@christidmore]

THANK YOU for the helpful video. It was the fuse on the controller. Thanks again.

[@RVwithTito]

Great job. Glad it helped 👍

[@VoteDemocracy]

Another great video Brian. Coming from a marine environment with plans beginning our RV adventures soon, I am finding many crossover areas with maintaining an RV. In my marine environment I would use dielectric grease and/or CRC 06026 HD Corrosion Inhibitor on most electrical connections. Unsure if this would be appropriate near open flame as these anti corrosion products are flammable. You typically do not find any open flame appliances on a yacht.

[@RVwithTito]

Sounds great! Yes there are lots off cross over with marine applications.

[@mikeweis5925]

Great job of explaining the entire process.

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks!

[@kensmith7721]

Good Informative video. I have done everything you said in the video. My problem is that the igniter keeps on clicking after the chamber haas lit. and after about 7 seconds it shuts off.

[@aroundthehorns]

Good video. Nice troubleshooting in a methodical way. Appreciate ya

[@RVwithTito]

Glad to help

[@HomebuiltHELP]

Great information Brian, Thanks I think you should be careful about measring that spark terminal on the board - I believe that is high voltage (pulses). Might damage a meter?

[@RVwithTito]

Yeah. That makes sense that it would be higher voltage for the arc. I haven't had to test that actually but thought I'd mention it. Thanks for the info 👍

[@jaysavelle5939]

Best video I have EVER seen explaining troubleshooting Atwood Water Heater!!!!! Much appreciated!! Do you have a video of how to change the thermostat? Thanks

[@santiagoandrade894]

Best explanation ever of each component thank you....Here's another situation...when humid and rainy heater wont ignite unless i go outside open door and warm up controller with hair dryer...Cracked controller?

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks for the tip. I recently noticed that it runs much better in low humidity and sputters more in high humidity (gotta open the door) Hmmm.

[@tommypittman3995]

Great video better than most. Good detail and camera coverage help with the learning. Great job thanks for the information/.

[@RVwithTito]

You bet. Glad it was helpful for you.

[@williamcondon5786]

Great video! I just want to add some helpful info on the older atwood units like you have and mine thats similar but doesnt have the 2 amp fuse.if unit locks down and wont start- To reset controller- switch the heater off then unplug controller wait 30 then seconds,plug in and switch on. Thats all it took for mine to take off and run..sometimes they sense an error in the system like plugged heat tube, etc . Saves buying a new controller!

[@RVwithTito]

Excellent tip. I'll have to remember that. Thanks!

[@joeylatorre5147]

Thanks for your knowledge and input on this video, so helpful and grateful, God Bless you, sir,

[@RVwithTito]

You are very welcome. Glad it helped you out.

[@BoutthatRVLife]

Great video. This helped me tremendously and I learned a ton. New subscriber here

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks. Glad to hear. Welcome!

[@joedintino5199]

Hello Tito... I have a different issue with my Atwood RV water heater (Model G6A-8E). My heater will fire up, but the flame shuts down after 5 or 6 seconds, this happens 3 time with approx. 10 to 15 seconds in-between starts. I have replaced everything but the gas solenoid so far, Thermal fuse, T'stat ECO, control board and ignitor. I get 20 omhs at each solenoids. cleaned out the burner tube, the orifice and pretty sure the big heater tube is clean also.. Cleaned al the connection and grounds.

[@barnettbilly85]

Thank you for this video i am sure it will be helpful to me and others.

[@RVwithTito]

I hope so!

[@addidasnwc]

Thank you so much! Will be troubleshooting my unit later this week. I have the same water heater. Best how to I have seen. I will be a subscriber subscriber.

[@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736]

Dryers are similar with multiple thermostats safeguarding against overheating and burning up the appliance; it has the operating thermostats to cut in and out, and then a safety thermostat set higher that will cut power to prevent it burning up; the safety thermostat usually only kicks in if the high cut out thermostat has gone bad. FYI for anyone with dryer issues. Also door switches can prevent operation and can be temporarily bypassed until you can get a new switch. They are a normally open switch!

[@RVwithTito]

Good info. Thanks. We have certainly bypassed the door switch on our washing machine before while waiting for a replacement 😃

[@Todd_Connelly]

Great video. I have replaced my board, my thermal fuze, the ECO and thermostat. I finally have electric working, but not the LP. The gas side doesn't make a sound and there is no smell. Do you think it might be a solenoid? Thanks in advance!

[@RVwithTito]

Haven't had that issue, but I'd check LP supply, power out of the ECO, Power out of the valve solenoid, ground wire on the solenoid. If no LP out of the valve, check output orifice for obstructions. If ok then it's probably the valve. That's my $.02

[@Todd_Connelly]

@@RVwithTito Thank you. It's strange that my AC and LP stopped working at the same time, then after replacing the parts I mentioned, AC works but no LP. I did find out today that there is only 8.5 volts coming in to the ECO. Shouldn't that still be 13v or so?

[@RVwithTito]

Check the voltage coming in to the heater. Not 100% sure, but that could be the problem. It may not be enough to trigger the solenoid.

[@Todd_Connelly]

Just wanted to say thanks again for trying to help. Voltage to the board is 13.6v, so there's something else going on. I won't bug you anymore, but I really enjoy your videos! Safe travels @@RVwithTito

[@RVwithTito]

@@Todd_Connelly No problem. Hope you get it sorted out. Cheers!

[@carlosmendoza831]

What a great video, wow. Thank you!!! You explained it so well.

[@graffix11us]

Thanks Brian, very educational!

[@RVwithTito]

My pleasure! Glad it was helpful.

[@larrymiller8210]

Most excellent! Explains alot. Thanks Tito.

[@RVwithTito]

You're welcome. Glad to hear it.

[@kellyboy50five]

I love your videos Brian, but the piezo wire from the control unit is about 30,000 volts hence able to jump the distance to light the flame. It will wake you up if you touch the wire . Ok Thank You.

[@RVwithTito]

Great point

[@paulpreble5895]

Thank you so so much for your info. Great job on video. God bless you.

[@RVwithTito]

You're welcome! Glad it was helpful.

[@petecorrea8321]

Thank you, that was awesome video- I learned a lot from you over the years.

[@philsmith5400]

Incredible, useful detail! You should write manuals for maufacturers! Please study up on Trumas and do another video! ;-)

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks Phil. Haven't jumped on the Truma train yet. Still like the tank thing :)

[@philsmith5400]

@@RVwithTito ...and I like the unlimited supply when there are two showers to take! That being said, as I see it, there ARE more things to go wrong with an on-demand water heater, so I hear ya!

[@RVwithTito]

We are never connected to city water. So endless showers just aren't a thing for us. My WH also heats from the engine coolant while driving which has been handy.

[@philsmith5400]

@@RVwithTito ah! Understood - I volunteer at an Oregon State Park, so I stay in one place for a month or two at a time, with services. That's neat that the engine coolant also heats your water!

[@paulpreble5895]

Thank you again. God bless.

[@RVwithTito]

You're welcome.

[@nickthesailor3240]

Thank You Brian.. Tip .. Maybe let people know not to let that 10v auto fuse remain connected..that is only for a quick easy continuity test. There is no fire safety shut off. Someone's camper could burn down..

[@ricklarson9524]

I had a spark problem even after replacing the control board which was bad. The unit started up on first try with new control board. It worked for 2 days, The 3rd day it would not create a spark. With a meter, there was no continuity through ground to the ground probe. I cleaned and resoldered the end of the base and it worked great. The unit was even restarting once the water temp dropped to call for heat. FYI

[@goththicus]

I’m not sure if it’s possible, can you swap out your gas electric water heater for an on demand water heater? Thank you for tips. Always enjoy watching your repairs and latest upgrades to your motorhome.

[@RVwithTito]

Yes. It's definitely possible. In fact, it's a popular upgrade.

[@fxiques9976]

Great video and information

[@RVwithTito]

Thank you!

[@evenstargalaxy9586]

Thank you Tito. Very good. On my Atwood dual propane/electric water heater I don’t get propane or igniter clicking, so I can now trouble shoot that. But I get nothing on eccentric as well. Could it be thermostat and or thermal fuse as well?

[@leonardmedina1963]

Tito my 1993 Southwind Fleetwood ignites but shuts down after a couple seconds. Please help and thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@addidasnwc]

Replace the control board, burner tube and inginiter. I get a flame and keep hearing the tick tick after few seconds the flame goes out and water heater goes into lock down. My question is, what should i check next? Circuit board ? Thank you very much! Love your channel

[@addidasnwc]

Update, replace control board, working like it should!! Thanks

[@carlosmora3399]

Gracias! La verdad me ayudó mucho, un técnico me cobraba $ 290.00 solo por venir a revisar mi water heater y lo repare con $30.00

[@RVwithTito]

No problema. Encantado de ayudarle 👍

[@daviscrt]

Great video information. Thanks Don

[@RVwithTito]

You are very welcome

[@standingmannequin7911]

Excellent, thanks!

[@RVwithTito]

You bet!

[@TimNadaud]

Great video. Thank you.

[@RVwithTito]

Glad you liked it!

[@irishsetter48]

Excellent video. Thank you.

[@RVwithTito]

You're welcome.

[@Yukonjackman1]

Welcome back

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks. Never left, just got busy.

[@Yukonjackman1]

​@@RVwithTitolife does get busy doesn't it 😅 heck we are retired it was easy when working lol.

[@TMegelhoff]

Thanks for the vid!

[@RVwithTito]

No problem!

[@catbird1759]

Just went through troubleshooting an RV hot water heater and ordered a control module. Installed the new one and it worked, but not completely. Failed to stay lit after the 3rd attempt. Replaced the ignitor/thermal coupler. Same issue. Bad new control module. eBay special

[@RVwithTito]

Aha. One other thing I've discovered is that the burner tends to work better in dry environments. In very humid environments it can sputter once you close the door.

[@davidmilledge221]

I've got that system it works great on gas , mine is 24 years old , but its not working the on mains power and there's power going to the unit , probably needs a new electro rod , can you show a video on that to please , 🙏👍

[@RVwithTito]

My 120V A/C heating components (including the heating element and possibly a couple breakers) are on the back of the heater. Unfortunately, I'd have to remove the entire heater to get to it.

[@davidmilledge221]

@@RVwithTito yer mines in a tight spot under the sink I can just get to it with out pulling heater out but a tough job , so there's breakers there ? I'm told a reset button too ? I'm baffled 🤔

[@jwallen9303]

E X C E LL E N T !

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks!

[@raynebutler1564]

Excellent video, however, on mine it works all the way through the propane firing up and lighting, and propane runs about the normal time it would to heat my tank then shuts off, but I still get NO hot water. I am totally baffled by what could be happening here. I believe I have all of the winterization valves turned correctly too! When I sanitized my system prior to using it I of course let my water heater tank fill as part of this and then drained it again as recommended. Only thing I messed with is removing the PRV to allow me to pour vinegar into the tank from the top to let it sit overnight and descale my tank for calcium deposits. But the tank is not dripping anywhere to indicate a pressure leak.

[@raynebutler1564]

All fixed! While your video was really great and i feel so much better informed about my water heater, turns out my whole issue this time after I replaced my ECO and TStat was a winterizing valve that needed to be closed and not opened. I have hot water again!!! Yay!

[@dianeh-ot6ty]

Hi. Thanks for the great video! I'm having a problem with my Atwood GC6AA-10E. It goes through the lighting sequence 3 times. Each time I can hear and see a flame in the burner tube and it's a good flame. I checked the continuity on Thermostat and ECO. It shuts down, retries up to the 3rd time and then sends the signal to the DSI Fault light. I replaced the Thermal Cutoff and the Spark Probe but neither have fixed the problem. Either the Spark Probe ingnition isn't registering the flame, or something else is shutting down the solenoid. On my unit, there is no Deflector by the Spark Probe. I don't see any mention of it in the Part Identification paperwork either so I don't think this unit is supposed to have one. Do you think the problem is the Circuit board, or could there be something else? I have a Circuit board on order but if it is the circuit board, it would be covered under my Forever Warrantee at the dealer. I don't want to have the shop work on it and find out I have a large bill because it's something else though.

[@donaldjones5448]

Good video. Thanks for sharing.

[@timk.9827]

Thanks very, Good video

[@RVwithTito]

You're welcome 😊

[@hudson8865]

Thank you.

[@RVwithTito]

You bet!

[@c.l.mcintosh624]

Thank you very much

[@RVwithTito]

You bet!

[@EduardoGonzalez-vp3cu]

Hi my propane water heater light up but can’t staying working shutting off in few seconds and repeating the pricey 3 times thanks

[@funifin]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYnXoZJoqKZrd9Esi=YP7IaId1Mc6IwkTE This sounds like what is happening with yours.

[@ronpaulson6932]

Thanks for the video. I have zero 12 volt power at my control board. Supposedly the orange wire. I tracked it inside to where it connects with a red wire, no power there. I pulled out the switch panel above my stove and I have power to the water heater switch, both side when on, but the pilot light does not illuminate. Mine is a 2003 Georgie Boy with gas/electric combo. Any tips? Is there a fuse I am not finding? If the fuse was blown, would I have power at the switch? Thanks.

[@robgriffith5464]

Would a bad battery stop the hot water heater from not heating all the way or keeping it hot?

[@calvinspencer1707]

Excellent thank you

[@RVwithTito]

You are very welcome

[@timf6916]

Good information

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks

[@joebeermaster5495]

GreT vid..thank u !!!!

[@sylvaintherrien6469]

Excellent vidéo thk merci

[@markusa8189]

Bravo

[@RVwithTito]

😊

[@alchemy1]

My water heater seems to turn on at times and at times it does not. First time this happened I checked the fuse inside the fuse box. There was a burned 15-amp fuse. It had no name so I assumed it belonged to the water heater. I replaced it and it more or less did the job. The water heater seemed to kick in after some back and forth. Now it started with the same nonsense. It copped an attitude. I checked the fuse and it is good. Well then, I decided to check the switch itself which is by the cabinet wall by the sink. I took the switch out and behind it 4 wires. Two seem to go the light which supposed to light up when you turn the switch on. Two wires go to the switch itself. The entire 4 wires feed into the body of the switch itself. In other words, light is also part of the switch body. On the switch it says 120 AC. I find that odd, I would think it should be DC if it is igniting the gas. I don't get it. Anyway, when I replaced the fuse the first time around last week, the light would come on and then turn off immediately when in the past it would stay on with the switch turned on. But this time around the light would go off. Then after some time the propane would kick in with that light still off. Today, the light remained off and the heater did not kick to start. I heard nothing. After some time, it did kick in., So now I have hot water. But obviously I have problems. Question: If propane runs off 12V DC why on earth would the switch say 120V AC, aside from the fact that there are obviously issues which I need to find out what is going on. I have no idea what type of water heater I have, but one other thing is certain that it is sitting one gas option and not so the so called "shore" power. Don't mind me if I said AC power. Another thing. What is the voltage supplied to the ignitor by the control board? I would be totally surprised if that voltage is only 12 V DC. That is not enough voltage that can jump over 1/8" gap. Consider spark plug gaps on a car, the coil produces voltage at the tune of 20K voltage. Right? Unless propane gas itself is conductive which I doubt. It is no more conductive than gasoline air mixture inside a cylinder of a car engine. Oh, on that deflector thing breaking... I suppose you can use liquid weld to fix it. Maybe not. By the way thank you for the thorough no nonsense explanation. I appreciate your time and genuineness.

[@RVwithTito]

Sounds like your switch is different than mine. I have two separate switches, one for AC and one for LP. I think there are some that are combo switches controlling LPnin one direction and AC in the other and middle for Off. Your right about the igniter voltage. It's a much higher voltage to jump the gap. My error. I've never had to test it with a meter. It wither works or it doesn't 😃

[@alchemy1]

@@RVwithTito After all the hassle of trying to figure out what was wrong with the heater not turning on, it just needed the thermo-fuse ends cleaned up and that brown wire female end clamped for tighter connection.

[@RVwithTito]

Yes. Nice and snug. Glad you figured it out....and a cheap fix too 👍

[@pastorchrisdavidson7153]

We recently bought an RV that had been sitting for a couple of years. The water heater didn't work at first which i found was due to a defective gas valve. I changed it and it worked great. Now, it works erratically. It will for fine for awhile while we are camping, then it randomly starts showing a DSI fault and stubbornly refuses to relight. It'll try to relight but all it does it pop and flash. It isnt a gas issue because the stoce easily lights and burns. Any suggestions?

[@RVwithTito]

Not sure. I've had similar issues moving from dry areas to humid areas. It doesn't like high humidity. They propping the door open.

[@TroyRoss-v3k]

Howdy, I am asking questions and need help. I just got through viewing your video on the Atwood hot water heater. Which is what I have in my prairie schooner. I'm thinking it's around 20-25 years old??? I bought it on a bank repo. So no paperwork with it. Going through the hot water heater I pretty much understand it all. But I am not getting power out of the main circuit board to anything. My hot water heater did heat up with electrical on one camping trip. And has not worked since. And I don't know why for sure. But you keep talking about hot water switches and I guess I'm not for sure where this one's at except there is a switch that says hot water heater underneath the kitchen sink. I have switched it up or down both ways and still cannot get power to the main circuit board on the hot water heater. Try to see if the propane worked but no it does not. Looks like because I'm not getting any power coming from the circuit board on the hot water heater. So does anybody have any ideas of what I need to do with finding all for sure the hot water switches to see if I can get power to the circuit board. Or do I need to get a new??? Thank you for your time I will truly appreciate any help.

[@RVwithTito]

If there is no 12V power coming into the heater then check for 12V coming out of the switch. If that reads 0V then check your DC fuse panel for a blown fuse.

[@TroyRoss-v3k]

Ok I think I have. But let me try it again. Thanks

[@whatmynamemitch]

I am immediately blowing that 2 amp fuse everytime i replace it. Not sure why?

[@poison2power314]

Ok well mine is doing something very odd. It comes on for 6 seconds then shuts off. Does it three times then stays off. It clicks the entire seven seconds the ignitor I mean. It clicks for 6 seconds with a great flame then shuts off what do ai do

[@michaelsullivan1262]

I missed where the thermostat is located and how it can be accessed.

[@RVwithTito]

It is behind that black foam sticker that says TStat. It is held in by a couple metal tabs and a spring keeps it pressed against the tank.

[@petermiller883]

What is the Model number of your Heater

[@RVwithTito]

Around 2:45 in the video there's a picture of the sticker with the model # on it.

[@dj3leven1]

Nothing about fuses? Inside

[@davehunter1153]

Propane starts runs for 5 minutes and shuts off