Step By Step || Simplest DIY 12V Group 24 LiFePO4 Battery Upgrade || Ditch Lead Acid

In this video, we cover each step showing you how to build a battery that fits into a group 24 battery box that upgrades your system to Lithium Iron Phosphate instead of those junk lead-acid batteries you have been using. We have a video coming very soon that will cover connecting this up to an inverter as well.
Visit our Current Connected Business Channel at: / @currentconnected
More information on the Eneramp Batteries and purchasing can be done at www.currentconnected.com/ea170
The BMS used in the video can be found also in our store here:
store.currentconnected.com/?p...
If you need some of the VHB tape that we used in the video, that's available on Amazon, Here:
amzn.to/3cgxntq
And last but not least, if you need a battery box, you can grab that over on Amazon as well, Here:
amzn.to/3cpc353
Visit our Web-Store at: store.currentconnected.com/
Introduction 0:00
Materials Required 0:53
Tools Required 1:11
Planning For Assembly 1:43
Assembly 2:17
Buss Bars Configuration 4:12
Balance Lead Preparation 4:38
Terminal Tightening 7:10
Connection Verification 7:43
Finishing Touches 10:38
Conclusion 12:18
#LiFePO4 #RV #DIY
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[@seancarwin8034]

Nice video I like the video I found out what I wanted from the video I did not know how to wire up a BMS Now I know I can use their video as a referral to do in myself when I am trying to put the BMS on my 12-volt battery I will try and make one for myself soon

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Nice build, and even nicer lighting. It really stands out well against your backdrop

[@HighTechLab]

Thank you so much David! We are glad to see you checked out our work.

[@ThanksForTheLaugh]

Nice build? Shows banding metal tape, which is kinda important for these batteries then use sticky tape only.. No discussion about checking batteries and balancing. Guess that negative cable will magically stretch to reach post. How does one connect anything to the battery pack? Very incomplete video.

[@sreekumarUSA]

@@ThanksForTheLaugh

[@SWPG]

*Awesome ! I need one of these batteries to upgrade my solar portable power generators, Much Appreciated !*

[@BlackWarriorLures]

Solid information. This is exactly what i need for the trolling motor used to power my canoe.

[@promzn]

Love your video. Thanks so much for your build

[@andrewennis8645]

Nice build . Others are using lil wires and wanting 120 but only getting 78 . Have to be like this dude and have bigger gage

[@quoctran4735]

A very thorough instruction video. Thanks

[@michaelcharge4783]

Probably one of the best DIY battery builds I have seen. Thanks.

[@HighTechLab]

Hi Kevin, what do you mean the cells are not balanced???

[@cleversolarpower]

Great video, you might want to remove the foam around the BMS for heat reasons.

[@user-sl4ms1oj9o]

Dear Sir.Can I contact you via email to discuss about the 12V and 48V battery packs

[@cleversolarpower]

@@user-sl4ms1oj9o Sure

[@kulconcepts8996]

Good video, but 1. prismatic cells need slight compression to prevent internal delamination, and 2. BMS cooling fin should not be blocked with foam.

[@frankalbert1189]

Thank you Lawd baby geezus!! FINALLY someone that uses a darn crimper TO CRIMP!!

[@NK-dl2nc]

Wasn't the best of crimpers though

[@dash8brj]

This is an excellent video even for a guy whose built a few LFP batteries. Hint to anyone building: the 100A and lower DALY BMS's cannot have the B- and P- leads reversed like in this video. I have a 100A unit sitting beside me, totally useless for a build as its so inflexible with mounting, but I know it works, and its my testing BMS. I have a 250A one coming, which I would have had to have done anyway, as I'm tossing an inverter into the mix.

[@tdav225]

Nice job and excellent video!

[@Strutingeagle]

Great video. Seems odd to pack that BMS with all its heat sink fins into so much foam packing.

[@pulesjet]

Link has been corrected. Thank you.

[@teekay1785]

I use either plastidip or the liquid electrical tape to insulate a few tools I use around batteries .Even electrical tape on handles layers is better than nothing but still treat like they are bare metal since parts of them are or might be.

[@mannymota3442]

Woo Hoo, going Hollywood with the new videos. Good work.

[@HighTechLab]

Thank you so much for your constant support. We are working hard to bring things to the next level, I'm sure you've enjoyed watching us grow!

[@brianmi40]

You should check voltage on individual cells before connecting everything up, and charge them to be similar if not already beforehand.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Great step by step video!🤘

[@HighTechLab]

Glad you liked it and thank you so much for subscribing to the channel!

[@nateethington76]

Wow, great video and I like what you are doing. That is a pretty good price for those batteries too. I did get some 200Ah cells a little cheaper from Aliexpress and am waiting for them to get delivered. But I had to order from some random company and who knows what I will get and I have to wait for months to get them. I love how yours fit in that box as well. I would have gone this route had I known.

[@HighTechLab]

I hope those cells from AliExpress turn out to be everything you hope for! We've been ripped off by China with grey market, B-Grade and used cells that are advertised as brand new "grade a" cells. Unfortunately there is ABSOLUTELY NO STANDARD on what "GRADE-A" actually is. Some say that "a grade" is the best, and other companies call what most of us here in the states assume grade a is actually grade A++. It's a nightmare and full of lies and deceit, hence why we are so focused on doing real and honest business.

[@arms501]

Nice explanation... Step by step... Keep on going for this chanel bro...

[@HighTechLab]

Thank you!!! We also have a second channel with more videos like this, link in description

[@buickgsx4553]

With the bus-bars and the batteries expansion & desention do you recommend the braided Bus-bars? Not to put more tension on the terminals ?

[@alvarogaitan2529]

thanks very much nice job terrific

[@NK-dl2nc]

You need to pack more insulation around the BMS so that is will overheat quicker👍

[@petritxhuveli9574]

Excellent video. Thank you. Question. Can i use this configuration as Car’s battery?

[@897aa33]

Interesting. Daly bms said you have to connect b minus first before connecting balance leads?

[@rocktech7144]

Nice build video. My system build video with the calb cells coming soon.

[@HighTechLab]

Awesome!!! Let me know when it's up

[@newmiziri]

Hello, Thanks was very clear ,how connected to mppt and where balance?

[@mckenziekeith7434]

I built a similar sized pack. I used neoprene foam in between cells and then relied on the clamping force to hold them together. I also applied the clamping force before tightening down the bus bars. Looks like you didn't use any type of clamping force on the cells in this build.

[@nutechniciandiy1742]

Nice​ job.​ I​ like

[@LastExile1989]

I have that same compressor. It is only 10.4 amps. I can run it off my 5.1 kw bank of my small 1kw inverter. I love that compressor.

[@GadgetReviewVideos]

Nice video. I had some random thoughts. If you dont have an insulated ratchet just wrap the handle in electrical tape. VHB tape is more expensive then basic 1 inch wide double side tape. Or just use shipping box cardboard for a separator if the cells are on the battery box.

[@HighTechLab]

the VHB has a bit more thickness to it, and really is awesome stuff for this case, that's the reason why we chose it. saving 10 bucks on tape seems penny smart but dollar foolish in my opinion

[@robbehr8806]

3M makes different VHB tapes. Which one do you recommend?

[@vallehv10011]

If I crete 2 simillar baterries 12v to this with its on BMS, Can I latter conect them in series to make a 24v sistem, does the BMSs work or I will need to chage the 2 BMS for a 8s string 24V BMS?

[@mrchrisknight315]

So when testing the cells, why did you move the negative lead to positive portions of the connector?

[@igorkvachun3572]

Yes.👍 LiFePo4 battery 🔋

[@ddd228]

Cheap-o pancake air compressor. VHB tape is great! Use a big clamp.

[@zodiacfml]

4:22 right. i've seen a couple of DIY videos but I haven't seen anyone provide a warning except this. do bus bars like this melt whenever there is high current or short because this one looks beefy to me.

[@sparrowsends]

Did you have to do any balancing procedures?

[@davidstokes3512]

With the vhb tape do I need to compress the battery

[@takakichi]

It was helpful. Thank you very much.

[@BrentSara00]

Have you amended a battery like this to add a heat element for low temps? Thanks for the video! I Iook forward to building one soon.

[@HighTechLab]

Not yet! We are doing some capacity testing videos first and then will look deeper into improving cold weather functionality.

[@CG-xr5bz]

Where did you get the solder balance connectors? Can't find them. Most informative video yet.

[@randybobandy9828]

They are just regular crimp style Connectors that he added solder to.

[@carterjohnson25]

How does the tape between the batteries impact the Need for them to be compressed? Seems it will create a gap where it will allow for them to expand? Thoughts.

[@HighTechLab]

These batteries don't need compression so long as you use them under a 1C rate. we specify in the batteries spec sheet that they cannot be used over a 1C rate other than a 30 second surge which in our testing we have found does not cause any issues.

[@BilalHKhan-xk7vb]

You forgot to put a compression strap on the cells. They expand and shrink as charging cycles are completed and can potentially reduce charge cycles from 3500 to 2500. Very good build but can benefit from a compression system plus a Bluetooth dongle for Daly bms.

[@randybobandy9828]

Do we have actually hard data on this? Has anyone run the tests to comfirm

[@jonerlandson1956]

*does it pay* ... to use dielectric grease on the terminals?...

[@xjinit]

Couple things I'd suggest, place fiberglass board between the bms and battery cell. It gets very hot especially in a confined space like that. Also use some type of tape on the outside to bind then together, double tape will let loose when the cells warm up.

[@HighTechLab]

Literally neither of the objects that you suggest get hot actually do get hot. These cells are only rated for a 1C rate for continuous discharge which means that BMS will only ever see 170 amps. Total overkill for this setup

[@xjinit]

@@HighTechLab how long have you ran that bms continuous at 1c in that enclosed box and what was the temp? If I pull 85 amps from my 120a rated bms it gets to up 80c and not in an enclosed environment.

[@randybobandy9828]

That tape is not going anywhere.

[@bradleyjohnson452]

Thank you for making it look simple. Does anyone make or sell projective plastic top caps or covers for the bus bars?

[@sreekumarUSA]

012922/1529h PST. Bradley , you be able to make the top cover (insulator) all by yourself. you could make it with thick cardboard, or Acrylic. If you have a store close by, who makes Plastic signs, you may be able to buy scrap cut pieces from them. Have you heard of TAP Plastics? good luck.

[@muhammadnadeemismail]

@@sreekumarUSA Or may be u can use glue gun to insulate screws. I guess I am not wrong

[@5885ronny]

Gut Lifepo4 😊

[@jorgegarnica6179]

Can this be used for car audio purposes?

[@knuth.degaard2236]

Very nice. If I want to have let's say four times the capacity. But I don't need more than 200 amps. Would you the build four equal packs with four BMS, or just make a 4P-4S pack out of all 16 cells?

[@michaeldoherty2289]

You can do it either way electrically. Using 4 BMS's is more expensive but you can monitor each cell. If you parallel cells first you cannot monitor them individually, but it does eliminate the cost of the extra 3 BMS's.

[@randybobandy9828]

You can make a 4s2p pack with a single BMS or 2 4s1p packs with a individual BMS for each.

[@szakbak]

good video but where does the positive wire go,how do you charge the battery,was it able to run that compresser

[@HighTechLab]

We are working on editing a video showing that right now

[@vinodvinees1629]

Pls do on 24 v and 48 v detailed video with Daly smart Bms

[@tospicy4ya]

Do you get a bms to cover the amp drawn in system or rv or if 280ah battery do u get a 280a bms

[@randybobandy9828]

You get a a BMS that matches your cells max continuous discharge rate or less than. These cells have a 3c rating(300amp continous) so a 250amp BMS is fine. A 300amp would have worked too.

[@5885ronny]

Good video 👍🤗

[@HighTechLab]

Thank you!

[@5885ronny]

@@HighTechLab Please please

[@HighTechLab]

@@5885ronny ???

[@5885ronny]

@@HighTechLab gut 🤗👍

[@knight3131]

I'm looking into building something similar. I have 2 questions. 1. You didn't need to balance your battery ? 2. I have a battery pack (Lithium Iron- purchased) that is connected to dash cam in car, so battery get charge at 14.6v at 9 amps when vehicle is on. The battery pack has XT60 port can I connect the above battery pack to my already installed pack to increase capacity?

[@Totogita]

Question:can I use this battery with a renogy charge controller for gel and flooded

[@HighTechLab]

It depends on your charge and discharge voltages. If you have a good BMS then it should work out just fine

[@immrnoidall]

I never thought of the NEGATIVE shell of my cells and I don't think A lot of people have when putting these together. At the very least, use the separating Styrofoam packing the batteries came with when shipped.

[@Kremsi1306]

if I want to do a system mit 2x4S pack with 280Ah 3.2V each cell, do I need 2x BMS 4S for 12V or is 1 BMS 8S enough?

[@HighTechLab]

If you connect the cells in parallel first then one BMS can handle it

[@dsm870]

Nice build. But what's a Buss Bar? I thought it was a typo, but you mentioned both in the video as well as the description. Hmm.

[@HighTechLab]

A bus bar is the jumper that goes between the cells to carry current

[@dsm870]

@@HighTechLab Lol, I know that, if you didn't get my comment, it was not really a question. Its bus bar not "buss" bar.

[@davidhoops40]

Can you cover charging with this battery and BMS? Could a boat/car alternator charge the pack or does it need a dedicated setup? Showing mixed charging setups and examples could be useful. Like alternator and solar combined.

[@HighTechLab]

We are working on making some install videos with them as we speak

[@teekay1785]

There are issues with potential damage to the alternators except some in newer vehicles but there are ways to deal with it . Would NOT do this until you research the topic or wait for his videos. Basically with lead acid there can always be some charging load when the LiFePo BMS cuts the charge off there is no load on alternator at all and will cause alternator failure

[@brianmi40]

You'd want a product like this for DC to DC charging from your vehicle alternator / battery... www.renogy.com/12v-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/?gclid=CjwKCAjwtJ2FBhAuEiwAIKu19rXBhbnb0MgNU_hfQB9tbYBr3XIa4bHfRtFHpFw_hVbC9vggjgV1XRoCgGgQAvD_BwE They can be run in parallel to charge along with a Solar array.

[@ashleyritchie4948]

I am trying to convert my mobility scooter, I am stuck at the final stage, the P from the BMS goes where? to main battery + and my original loom neg would go to the battery neg with the BMS blue ?? is this correct?

[@randybobandy9828]

The P- From the BMS goes to your scooters negative wire connection. P stands for (power) so p always goes to the device you are trying to power. B stands for (battery) so it always does to the battery. You Connect the positive directly from the battery to the scooters positive wire.

[@thomasbuechner9053]

I really think the way you put the VHB tape on the outer edges is not a good idea. These cells have a tendency to budge/swell in the center of the flat side of the cell. Actually the MGR suggest some compression on the cells otherwise there is a reduced life span. The is a known problem that is documented in many places including other videos. With the VHB tape as you have it you have made a air gap between the cells right in the area that they budge the most. The other down side of the VHB tape is if you every have one bad cell it is going to be really hard to get them apart for repair.

[@HighTechLab]

Based on our information and independent testing, the swelling isn't an issue at the C-rates we advertise and rate these batteries for. At continuous discharge above 1c rate, which these batteries _could_ do but we do not recommend, would require compression for the swelling, and then yes, you are right about the swelling. The life span difference is a couple hundred cycles difference on a 6000 cycle curve, our customers likely will never reach that many cycles, and if they did, that's what our warranty is for. For seperating, you can just run a plastic blade between the cells, commonly available at hardware stores, and then once seperated remove any residue.

[@ItsOnlyFil]

Newbie question about the BMS. I am told never to have an individual cell charged above 3.65V, but Daly BMS is set to 3.75V. Why would they set it like that ? I have used a Lifepo4 Daly BMS and monitored individual cells voltage. I manually stopped charging when I saw voltage increasing above 3.65V. Their spec sheet says single overcharge protection voltage is set to 3.75V. Many thanks !

[@randybobandy9828]

You should be able to change the cell cutoff voltage in the Bluetooth app. Also your charger should have a set voltage on it, what does your chargers voltage say?

[@randybobandy9828]

You should be able to change the cell cutoff voltage in the Bluetooth app. Also your charger should have a set voltage on it, what does your chargers voltage say?

[@kempenaar32]

can this be used to start SUV style cars? I keep hearing the LifPO4 can not produce the crank current needed to start cars.

[@randybobandy9828]

This battery would struggle. It only has a 3c discharge (300amps) you can buy "headway" cylindrical Lifepo4 cells that have a much higher C rating and can start a car for alot less $

[@joshg1244]

I don’t think I’ve seen a detailed video for your current battery setup for the ranch.

[@HighTechLab]

Everything is always changing, and upgrading. Stay tuned for lots more content!

[@michaelrhodes7885]

I agree, that was the best detail description of a battery build I’ve seen and I’ve followed dozens and dozens of videos thank you

[@brazilianredneck]

Im watching the video while assembling a 105AH 12V battery. My configuration is absolutely like yours but my BMS cable is adding the voltages. Like when I put the voltmeter negative lead on the black port and the positive on the first red slot, it shows 3.2V. When I move the positive lead to the second red slot it shows 6.4V and 9.6V and finally 12.8V on the last red slot. It doesn't show 3.2V in every slot like in your case. Any idea of why?

[@randybobandy9828]

Because he is moving both of the multimeter points. So you are keeping your black lead on the negative while he's moving it to the next cells positive everytime. So if it's -1, +1,+2,+3,+4 to test cell 4 you put your meter on +3,+4 instead of - 1,+4

[@JamesDean-ow7qo]

With the two-sided tape holding the cells together how do you remove a cell if there is a problem with that cell?

[@HighTechLab]

Peel them apart

[@mwint1982]

Measure balance lead voltages so they add up to the final voltage? 3, 6, 9, 12

[@mwint1982]

(Keep the negative probe in the same place while measuring, test each positive)

[@HighTechLab]

That's a great way to double check and make sure you got everything perfect!

[@teekay1785]

Yes I agree that is easier to understand thought the same thing actually do both lol never hurts to double check this step and save your BMS

[@randacnam7321]

Ratcheting crimpers provide a better termination as the force is sufficient to cold weld the metal.

[@HighTechLab]

Are you referring to balance leads or the heavy gauge current carrying wires? I made a video on using a hydraulic crimper...and talked about the cold welding. I think these wires are so small, that amount of force might just shear through them.

[@randacnam7321]

@@HighTechLab BMS leads. Soldering mitigates the problem, but those plier type crimpers do not do a great job on their own.

[@HighTechLab]

You're right. I was wondering if you have a preference in ratcheting crimpers, I think we should invest in a set.

[@randacnam7321]

@@HighTechLab My go to ones are some $25 Taiwanese Klein Tool Home Cheapo specials. Those are for 22AWG to 10AWG terminals inclusive.

[@HighTechLab]

Okay gotcha! We'll check them out. Sucks that brands that used to be REALLY GOOD have moved to different countries and left us with junk to work with.

[@charlieb9502]

Not bad but I spotted some things that would make this build much better. #1@ 02:29 you really need to clean the surfaces with 90% IPA and allow to evaporate before applying the adhesive tape. #2 @ 04:20 This is the time to apply a coat of conducive / anti corrosion paste to the flat area o the battery terminals and to the treads. Also to the bottom of the buss bars before assembling. Also I would only install one buss bar at a time to mitigate risk of shorts. #3 @ 04:38 I would have drilled and tapped the bus bars for the balance connections and use the correct crimp for 22g wire. Then you lemonade the need for soldering. Also I wouldn't cut the balance wires as that small of a gauge wire resistance can change very easily with length. This will effect the efficiency of the BMS. Or at very least cut them to the same length. Normally the longest run from the BMS to the furthest connection giving some slack to work with. Over all good info.

[@HighTechLab]

Disagree on the last point. The balance wires carry practically no current therefore there is no loss in the line

[@randybobandy9828]

Why add anti corrosion? I don't think they are dissimilar metals

[@robertrozzell6770]

Will you be doing capacity testing on this battery? Are these new cells new or used. I ask because that is a very good price. I am one of those guys still running with liquid lead acid batteries but the main reason is the up front cost of LiFePO4 batteries. I run 4- 225 ah liquid lead acid batteries but it gives me 450 usable ah. I would dearly love to go LiFePO4 with 640 ah of power. I simply need more info not only on the batteries used in this video but over all on LiFePo4 batteries. Thanks, new viewer

[@HighTechLab]

We just built an amazing battery testing rack just doing tests on batteries like these. We're making a video released sometime in the next week or so showing capacity testing on this configuration. The EnerAmp Cells are 100% brand new Grade A+, not some second hand gray market junk from China. It seems that everyone is getting ripped off with them, especially the 272ah cells that come in 10% under spec...totally unacceptable. We are stocking the batteries in our own warehouse, and will make some videos on Monday, as we have a massive order of cells arriving. I've been evaluating these batteries since October. I'm used to CALB batteries that are the best on the market, however, CALB has discontinued their CA180 batteries forcing us to find the next best thing. With these batteries, I think we found exactly what we are looking for and by ordering in massive quantities, we reach a price point that is unbeatable. Thanks for watching, and I am certain that there is plenty to learn on this channel. We are starting to ramp up our video production, this being one of the first few that have made the jump to the next generation of video production. We're super excited for a TON of awesome coming QUICK!

[@robertrozzell6770]

@@HighTechLab Excellent, thank you so much for the detailed response. It looks like I might very well be going LiFePo4. The cost for these batteries are only about 400.00 more than the lead acid I'm running. now.

[@HighTechLab]

The thing is, the cost difference isn't actually that much, when you consider that you will need to buy lead acid again in a few years, and these batteries are not only covered with an industry standard 10 year warranty, but reports are coming in from some of the original LFP users that they can last well beyond that 10yr mark if well taken care of.

[@mendozaconsultation]

What would you charge to build a 300ah LifePod4 battery.?

[@HighTechLab]

Depends on the voltage. We can chat here or you can email me at [e-mail]

[@ovchannelag5238]

👍👍

[@MMMM2MMMM2MMMM]

The BMS needs spacing for cooling.

[@Sylvan_dB]

You could probably separate the battery cells by using dental floss to saw thru the VHB tape.

[@HighTechLab]

That's the best idea i've heard of yet!!!! We will mention you in our video if we have to take them apart.

[@jakeandrules7724]

Ive used fishing line to do that too.

[@RickinICT]

@@jakeandrules7724 Braided line - just like a saw!

[@jimmac521]

that BMS has heat sinks for a reason... and in your config it has no airflow. Depending on what your load looks like it may need air.

[@HighTechLab]

We just did some tests at over 1C rate and didn't have any heat issues with the BMS.

[@bluex48]

when is the last time u seen a battery with the bms hanging out for air flow :))

[@HighTechLab]

Thinking this through, I've never seen it on Battleborn, never on SOK battery, never on Renogy, they seal them up far more than we do.

[@teekay1785]

In this case the battery cell cases themselves act like the heat sink to cool the heat sink off. I n practicality the cells themselves will not get warm to touch even with extended 100 amp use maybe with extended 200amp use slightly warm but not hot. You could only run a 200 amp load for max of 51 minutes till charging needed.

[@tiagonet8794]

what's the discharge rate for this battery? 5C? 50C?

[@randybobandy9828]

I think 3c if they are eve cells.

[@wanderingzythophile9083]

What cells are those, and what are the dimensions of each cell? Thanks!

[@HighTechLab]

store.currentconnected.com/?product=ea170raw

[@wanderingzythophile9083]

@@HighTechLab Thanks!

[@infl]

I don’t see that link for the second channel :p

[@HighTechLab]

Sorry about that, it should be fixed now and here’s the link: kzbin.info/door/GrID7nJCcMnFSX2PX694gQ

[@infl]

@@HighTechLab You’re good! thanks for the link. Can see production quality is going up, i’m excited!

[@maritimetees2315]

Where do you ship from on your web store for these cells?

[@HighTechLab]

We ship from our warehouse just a few miles east of Stockton, CA

[@maritimetees2315]

@@HighTechLab perfect because I am in Oxnard. I am going to use these in my boat for my house bank.

[@HighTechLab]

@@maritimetees2315 that's awesome! if for any reason you need help getting things figured out our contact information is on our website, you can either call us or email us and we will be glad to help

[@heshamalnajjar]

Do you ship the batteries to Kuwait?

[@HighTechLab]

Unfortunately due to hazmat restrictions on Lithium batteries, we are unable to ship outside of the USA.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

All those bare terminals and bus bars! Plastic caps on terminals and heat shrink on the bars would make things less risky.

[@HighTechLab]

Or put the lid on the battery box?

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Of course, but when you are working around a battery group it’s easy to have a tool bridge the terminals

[@HighTechLab]

@@wallacegrommet9343 yes that is a good point, but insulating caps on the terminals would not be present during building, so insulated tools are a much better solution regardless

[@wallacegrommet9343]

I don’t have enough of those. Lol! Just maintain my boat and cars. I am interested in switching over to lithium when my boats house bank dies. Running four GC2 AGMs 6 volt in a series parallel config, for 500 amp hour capacity.

[@str8up598]

Run the compressor.... For how long?

[@HighTechLab]

It can run it for a few hours!

[@beyondupnorth]

What is the amp draw on the compressor? Some of those oiless compressors draw very little as I have one I run off my 750 watt inverter in my pickup I installed under the seat to power a laptop.

[@randybobandy9828]

@@beyondupnorth its not really the wattage/amp draw overtime but the surge amps can be huge.

[@hardtruth2039]

Great video. But you have completely blocked the BMS cooling fans. That can’t be good.

[@HighTechLab]

It's totally fine they don't get warm at all

[@muhammadnadeemismail]

@@HighTechLab Would'nt be better to install a cooling fan in the battery case just like computer

[@mikethomas7138]

but where to get the batteries?

[@HighTechLab]

Raw Cells can be found here: store.currentconnected.com/?product=ea170raw Pre-Designed Kits are located here: store.currentconnected.com/product/ea170/ Hope this helps!

[@sonnyobrien]

How the heck are you connecting the positive?? It wont reach

[@edwinkania5286]

VHB tape can be removed with heat. I remove it with a heat gun.

[@brianmi40]

I would never try and get that much heat in between those tightly packed cells here. You're almost guaranteed to weaken or even melt through the plastic wrap on the cells. As others mentioned, fishing line to but them apart. Keep heat away from PLASTIC

[@randybobandy9828]

@@brianmi40 you just cut the shrink wrap of the cell and just add new shrink wrap if you need to separate them. Obviously cut the shrink wrap of only 1 cell at a time.

[@herbertvonsauerkrautunterh2513]

I thought the cells needed compression...

[@herbertvonsauerkrautunterh2513]

I wouldn't stick then together either

[@JessopVTS]

Anybody use a home made LiFePo4 battery pack in a tent when camping?

[@kimmer6]

Yup. Have 100 Amp Hour battery running a 300 watt pure sine inverter. Its all in a plastic Minn Kota trolling motor plastic case. It runs a CPAP machine and a box fan, some LED lights and charges cell phones and USB stuff.

[@randybobandy9828]

No but I wouldn't hesitate to do so.

[@Xz12h]

if your giving instructional videos, you should use proper size wire with proper lug size and correct crimper. a crimp connection does not need to be solder. there is an old saying. "do it right or don't do it at all".

[@randybobandy9828]

He did it right. The BMS wires carry 2amps max.. There is nothing wrong with the lug size for such a connection.

[@muhammadnadeemismail]

@@randybobandy9828 I appreciate you as an active participant. I have been watching through all the comments and nobody is as active as you. Your comments have been very educating to me and I am very thankful to you dear

[@timcomer262]

Good information. Just wondering why you use a 14-16awg crimp connector on a 20+ awg wire. Why not supply the correct lugs for this wire?

[@HighTechLab]

We do now, it was all we had at the time. The new ones have heat shrink and are top quality

[@kartikkanchan8827]

How can I protect BMS from SC?

[@user-yv9ui6co6r]

Excuse me sir I have 1 question

[@RolandOfGileadOnYT]

'If I were to place this busbar over here, it would create a dead-short' ... ehm, is it me, or is this hovering above those two connectors with a busbar something you just shouldn't try ;)

[@offgridwanabe]

Aluminum bus bars? may need some galvanic protection IMHO good luck

[@HighTechLab]

How do you figure? The terminals on the battery are aluminum as well

[@offgridwanabe]

@@HighTechLab but the ring terminals are not

[@HighTechLab]

That is a tough call. We do have copper bus bar options available as well.

[@offgridwanabe]

@@HighTechLab a little dab of Alcoa ACA No.2 EJC Electrical Joint Compound or whatever your favourite is and you could sell it on your site.

[@HighTechLab]

That is a good idea to consider!!!

[@rtsteele567]

Why don't you sell this as a kit?

[@HighTechLab]

We will be very soon, right now the kit is the batteries, buss bars, and screws. I've been negotiating BMS units already and the rest is just VHB tape.

[@rtsteele567]

@@HighTechLab Great. How would you connect 2 of these assembled units (8 cells) for 12v. Groups of 4? Parrallel? Will a single BMS handle this?

[@HighTechLab]

Yes it can! We just put a whole bunch of all inclusive kits in our webstore at store.currentconnected.com/ea170

[@richardowens9061]

You did not just pick those batteries up by the terminals, did you?

[@HighTechLab]

For my cells, I did. The terminals are plenty strong enough, I do not have any concerns that there are adverse effects by doing so.

[@richardowens9061]

@@HighTechLab You're not being consistent, here. On the one hand, you think that just riding down the road in an RV with busbars connected is going to fatigue the terminals. But, on the other hand, you aren't worried at all about picking the pack up by the bus bars. How do you reconcile those two things? I don't mean to be pedantic, but you are putting yourself out there like you're a professional and showing others how to do this stuff. And, I can immediately see problems with your methods. And, I am not a professional. I'm just in the process of putting my own 23,040 watt-hour 51.2 volt system together. So, I've spent months doing lots of research on how these batteries should be treated and how they work.

[@HighTechLab]

It's quite simple, and I'd be glad to further explain. The terminals can easily support picking up the batteries one, two, even ten times, really there is no limit. The direction of the force picking up the batteries is vertical, thereby putting tensile stress on the terminals, which they can withstand very well. Tensile strength is the resistance of a material to breaking under tension. In this case I am putting the studs under tension which is no issue, in fact the clamping force from the wire/buss bar securing nuts applies further tensile force on the studs than I ever do by picking up the batteries. This has absolutely nothing to do with them going down the road. Shear strength is the strength of a material or component against the type of yield or structural failure when the material or component fails in shear. A shear load is a force that tends to produce a sliding failure on a material along a plane that is parallel to the direction of the force. When batteries are installed in a vehicle, especially set in a battery box like the one we used in the video, things can move from side to size, especially if not secured with the VHB tape like we use. They can't really go up/down, because things like the lid and gravity constrain them, so in this application, tensile strength never comes into play. Without VHB tape, they can move around side to side, in two directions, which now applies shear forces to the side of the studs on the top of the battery. The studs are not as capable of withstanding shear force . What this means, is to best protect the terminals from the force they are not best suited for handling. To accomplish this, we applied the VHB tape to effectively eliminate the presence of any shear forces, preventing issues with the terminals entirely. If the batteries do not have the VHB tape, there is nothing holding these batteries from moving independently, thereby causing this exact shear force that the batteries cannot handle as well as the tensile force and leading to damage. To summarize, there are two different forces coming into play in each example, one of them (Tensile) the pack can handle well, and the other (Shear) the pack cannot handle as well. It's not an apples to apples comparison to say lifting them by the terminals is bad and not putting VHB is just as bad.

[@richardowens9061]

@@HighTechLab So, you're going down the road with your batteries. Tell me, what are you going to regularly encounter while doing that that would cause one battery to move in a different direction than the batteries on either side of it, while attached by a busbar - and, do it so many times that it literally rubs so much that it eats through both the plastic AND the aluminum case of the batteries? Why can't you just admit that your suggestion of such a thing occurring is so unlikely as to make your assertion of how important it is to stick them together with VHB tape absurd? That is the point I am making. It's a simple one and easily conceded by someone whose ego isn't standing squarely in the way. I get it that it makes it easier and safer to move the pack in and out of the box with the tape. I get it that it makes sense for the pack to not flex when being handled to reduce stress on the terminals. What I don't get is your absurd notion of friction rubbing through the plastic and aluminum case of the batteries from riding down the road.

[@rocktech7144]

@@richardowens9061 you are a putz. Vibration just from traffic just going by your house can abraid much thicker insulation on loose wiring in that house over time. So you would be comfortable having only 1 mil of plastic keeping your battery from a dead short at 300 amps.

[@thefpvlife7785]

I never use any leads / wires that come with the product for they are of poor quality.

[@claesmansson9070]

My bat. dealer tells me to compress cells for an extra 1000 cycles, I throw busbars out and make wire connections instead for flexibility,I never glue cells together if something should happen to a cell, and I never put bms inside together with batteries, the bms most likely will collapse before the batteries do, as it is an electronic device with a total different guaranteed lifespan, and I don t want it to heat my batteries, or itself for that matter in a beautibox, where I m not able to keep an eye with it, if you compress/fix the cells do it before you charge the cells, as cells will bulge a little when charged, if the cells were not allready charged by someone else, factory, dealer another customer?, thank you.