STEP by STEP Timing Belt Kit installation: 2UZ-FE V8 4.7;Toyota Tundra, Sequoia, Land Cruiser, Lexus

[@PartyProphet]

Taking the time to make a video (in depth) and informational, is a deed done good! I'm sure this video will help those who struggling and unable to afford a real mechanic. So they can keep their lifeline, the only means of transportation. That keeps food for the kids and oxygen tanks for granny! Thank you and thought you should realize the impact of your gesture! Thank you my good sir!!!

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you! We are trying to save money as well and your comments are much appreciated!

[@homsandwitch4488]

On god , thought about getting a mechanic and saw it cost 1500 on google for this vehicle so nvm LOL

[@brianritzpatrick4737]

@@homsandwitch4488 Even as a mechanic in a shop myself I have to refer to videos like this to get the job done right, usually skip to the timing procedure always, everything else is easy.

[@jeffshonk4443]

This looks hard

[@jeffshonk4443]

Looks like I will be paying someone , lol

[@hermiasrossouw7722]

My man. I just did a timing belt swap on my Land cruiser 100. With your video it was a breeze. I am an electrician. All went well. You are LEGEND.

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks, you are too kind! Cool truck you have, Land Cruisers last and last.

[@emalex2501]

This is an excellent jobs. It’s like being at school, step by steps with all of the instructions you needed.

[@samsonite813ify]

Big thanks to you for this video sir. Did a timing belt job on my 05 tundra this weekend. Watched your video 4 times before and followed along as I went. Got it done within specified time frame for a mechanic despite the fact I am a carpenter. Major sense of accomplishment but I couldn't have done it without you.

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks and so glad it went well! It is a great feeling to do the job right and save money. Wishing you many more years to come with your Tundra!

[@AnOutgoingIntrovert]

My Sequoia has 204k miles on it. It's preparing to get the timing belt, etc done for the 2nd time. It's overdue, I'm nervous about it, I still may have a shop do it. Thanks for the great vid.

[@WunKoolKat]

Aww man ... I watched the entire vid and rewatched writing down part numbers. The best part was the love to your Dad at the end that I was not expecting.

[@WunKoolKat]

and I just read the part numbers listed in the description. Again, excellent video!

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks! If it wasn't for my Dad, I wouldn't have the same knowledge to work on vehicles.

[@WunKoolKat]

@@gdupler1966 if your Dad was teaching you car mechanics, I am sure he was the best role model teaching most other things in life. What a great man…God bless the both of you!

[@gdupler1966]

@@WunKoolKat Thank you, and God bless you and yours as well!

[@mannyquin9192]

I took my time, took me eight hours. Saved me about $1500 in labor.

[@Marximarks]

Thank you for making this step-by-step video. I will be doing this to my 04 Tundra DC in a few days and I will be watching your video along the way. It will save me at least $1k by doing it myself.

[@gdupler1966]

Great to hear that you are doing it yourself and saving money. I made the video to help.

[@joelslaughter9056]

Thank you for this video! VERY well explained & thorough. I’m not afraid to attempt this now. I bought my dads best friends truck 3yrs. ago (2001) & he had all of the maintenance done except I couldn’t find a record of the timing belt. I am doing this on Saturday morning. He passed right after I bought it & it’s sentimental & this truck runs superb.

[@gdupler1966]

We wish you well and many more years with your truck! Let us know how the job goes. Dad and I like to hear good stories about Tundras.

[@joelslaughter9056]

@@gdupler1966 I most certainly will. My dad is a retired master mechanic but he’s 400mi away. Or he’s be out there with me. I do a lot just haven’t tackled timing.

[@joelslaughter9056]

@@gdupler1966 well, it’s finished & all is fine. Done it Saturday & was ready to put on thermostat housing & was out of silicone lol. Finished Sunday morning. I had your video handy & looked at it a few times. Thanks again for a great tutorial!

[@gdupler1966]

@@joelslaughter9056 Congratulations! Good to hear that the job went well. Hard to beat that "I did it and saved money feeling."

[@vwking2000]

Thanks for the video I watched it about a million times😂 I replaced my timing belt on my 2004 tundra this week. It took me 2 full days using mostly harbor freight tools and very little experience in this sort of thing. There’s a video by 1a auto showing a jig using a 2x4 to hold the crank when you torque harmonic balancer that I found helpful as well. I made it with angle iron. Thanks again!

[@gdupler1966]

Great! Glad you are an official timing belt do-it-yourselfer! Just about all of us have a harbor freight tool, or 6 or so. I did see that 2x4 brace video. Good stuff if you have to, I was glad mine came off with the air ratchet.

[@ryanculler7324]

I just completed my 2002 sequoia put new water pump and timing belt on and used a couple of videos as guides your was one of them I really appreciate it brother was a tremendous help Thanks again Glad I done it myself

[@jdhrap]

The timing (no pun intended) of this video for me is perfect. I’ve been meaning to DIY this project. Have KZbind many other repairs. Just a little nervous on some of the videos I’ve seen for timing belt replacement. This video was excellent. Very detailed and thorough. Thanks for the parts info as well and the torque specs. I’ve got a buddy that is going to help. Now for the back story. 2003 Sequoia SR5. Honestly don’t know if the timing has been replaced. I don’t recall ever paying a mechanic to do it, think I’m too cheap to have done that. Either way I know I’ve been told by Toyota dealers to replace since I was in MN 11-14 years ago. The guys in CA were telling me the engine will fail soon without new belt. That was 7-10 years ago. 272k+ on her and now just thinking it’s time to do it. Haha. Lots of squealing noises under the hood so looking forward to all the part replacements eliminating that. I will report back when done. Roger

[@gdupler1966]

Roger, Good to hear from you. Yes, I would think it is past time to replace it. Haha. But it is a testament to Toyota reliability that you have made it that far. Good luck with the work and I will be interested to hear how it goes!

[@jayinla228]

Howd it go?

[@perspicator5779]

Fantastic presentation! You smartly replaced all the future troublesome parts for future maintenance. You gave a nice sequenced, yet detailed and concise explanation. Gives me confidence to buy this engine in a Toyota.

[@ronniecarter3123]

THANK YOU for a great DIY video. I just bought an '04 Sequoia with 250K on the odometer, and an unknown service history. Your instructions were impeccable. One thing I might suggest is to wait until the new timing belt is mounted before bolting in the tensioner. I could not mount my belt onto the gears with the new tensioner installed, even with the pin still in it. By loosening the bolts until it was barely hanging on, the idler would swivel further down into its hole, and the belt then went on easily. I plunked out some $$ for a great chain wrench. Made immobilizing the crank pulley much easier for getting the timing belt properly installed, as well as for torquing the crank pulley bolt. As suggested in the Haynes manual, it is a good idea to cut a piece of the old serpentine belt and tape it to the harmonic balancer, in order to prevent damage to the pulley. Also, most people know this trick, but in case someone is not aware, putting a large wrench or breaker bar on the crank bolt and running the starter for about 1/4 second is a great fast way to loosen that bolt. (My impact wrench would not fit in the available space.) Again, most grateful for an excellent video!

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you for liking the video! Great tips and your comments can help others who are working on the timing belt!

[@elgatogordo9523]

Same here! My Dad is a great mentor as well. He has thought me everything I know and still schooling me, especially when working on my 61 Mercury Comet. Thanks for the videos Gents 👍

[@gdupler1966]

Amen! Dads as mentors are important and we encourage all dads to be mentors. Thanks for watching!

[@elgatogordo9523]

@@gdupler1966 I’m also passing my knowledge and life experience to my son. He came over last week with his 2008 Tacoma and we replaced rear brake drums including replacing the shaft seals. He was so thankful and saved him lots of money. They were quoting him over a $1200 just for the job we did under $150. Next adventure on his truck will be the front suspension 🤓

[@gdupler1966]

@@elgatogordo9523 that is great! Keep passing the knowledge so our kids can work on our trucks when we aren't able to do so!

[@elgatogordo9523]

@@gdupler1966 Will do my friend 👍

[@luischavez9836]

Thanks G Dupler for saving money, you know as hispanic we always call up whatever mechanic we can get so we don't have to take it to a shop, today someone recommended me a Mechanic he will do it out of my house the job the dude told me the parts time kit parts plus the camshaft sensor will cause between $1000 and $1200 just parts not labor, I might look stupid but I am not so I bought the parts OEM Toyota Tundra $179.85 Time Kit plus Camshaft Sensor a $145.00 you save me money, thank you

[@gdupler1966]

Great to hear that Luis! I hate to see anyone swindled out of their money. There are honest mechanics out there, but saving money doing it yourself is hard to beat!

[@stephaneviel2611]

Thank you so much for making a video this in depth. I followed it step by step and changed everything you did and it went smoothly took me a full day to complete but beats the shops pricing!

[@gdupler1966]

That is great! Thank you for reaching out and sharing! So glad it worked well for you. Let me know if there is something else you want covered. Hope your truck gives you many more years of service!

[@Will-i3k2e]

Did mine last week, came back to say thank you for the video.

[@JG-kb6pz]

Really a great video thank you. The only thing I noticed was at 24:30 the arrow of the belt for L Cam was supposed to be pointing to the cam mark as should the R Cam and crank marks. This is what I attained form the 1A auto video.

[@3CsRanch]

Great job with the video showing the necessary stuff without a ton of extra and sharing the torque specs from the Toyota shop manual was a very helpful detail.

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you! We wanted to show the necessary info so you can do the job. Goodness knows the KZbin community has helped us too.

[@beanstockjack1149]

Dang, I’m so glad I found this. All the other videos are short and don’t start from step one

[@beanstockjack1149]

Thank you for posting this

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks! Some are real long and some are short. We tried to make ours just right.

[@philipmccreanor8145]

great video. I could not have gotten the job done without your insights!

[@gdupler1966]

Great to hear and happy to help!

[@andrewlamb8219]

Thanks for the vid. Great detail and bonus with parts list and torque specs. AND... Loved your dad was in it with you.

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks! Making a video with my dad was by far the best part about the project.

[@kcastro4833]

Thank you for posting this video and taking your time explaining as well! Will tackle this next!

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks Kris! Stay organized and take your time and you will do great!

[@durango8882]

2004 Tundra new timing belt and water pump, coolant yesterday.

[@lestrotter8557]

Thank you for the video and your description comments! I was intimidated to attempt this project as I’m use to working on sbc and sbf. This is definitely something I feel competent doing after watching and reading your post.

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you! After working on Chevys and Fords, I predict you will like working on the Toyota engine.

[@josecardona5325]

Thank you so much for all of your shared expertise..... we need more guys like you to help all of us want to be mechanics,.......thank you so much guys.

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you for your kind words and we wish you well on your project! We have been helped by mechanics and DIYers on KZbin and this is our way of giving back.

[@mfnd502]

Great editing, zero fluff or fighting stubborn fasteners.

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks! Fortunately there wasn't much fighting on this job. I can't say that for all jobs.

[@rickerhart907]

I had myself talked into just taking my 4Runner to the shop and have them do this for $1,500 but after watching this video I might give it a try

[@gdupler1966]

Great, glad to hear it! Take your time and you will be fine. An extra hand ✋ is a good move as well.

[@gregmunz4779]

Great video with awesome picture. Really helped me through this big job . Thanks so much for taking the time to do it.

[@faustogonzalez8397]

Right, the bottom line is that the Left and Right Cam pulleys along with Crank line up at their designated TDC marks. The Timing Belt marks are an additional step for accuracy purposes that all timing components are inline (referenced) correctly to each other, in fact after initial line up with Timing Belt marks and the three pulleys, after two rations of the Crank these marks will no longer line up, but as we know the TDC marks on the pulleys Better line up with their respective TDC marks on the backplates of the pulleys. Once again thanks for you video !

[@dplachy]

Awesome video! No bs and great pace! My only complaint is the Nm thing....Nm, really! Just call the spec in Ft/lbs. Thanks you for the great tutorial 👍

[@gdupler1966]

Ha, Thanks! True, we don't use Nm here in the states.

[@frankhernandez6524]

Great video. I just did my starter for the land cruiser and With this video I’m almost convincing myself to do the timing belt. Thanks.

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you for watching and if you can replace the starter, you can definitely do the timing belt.

[@jamesfogartysr2156]

Very informative video,I have a 2004 Mica green TRD sport. It has 119,000 miles went on hotrod dragweek 21 and 22. I will be a participant in 23 w/my tundra. Thanks for the video.

[@gdupler1966]

Sounds like a very interesting truck if you are participating in drag week with it!

[@jamesfogartysr2156]

@@gdupler1966 It is pretty much stock,not trying to set any records.More like a bucket list for me. And the racer's Ive met are great people to be around.Thank's for your response.

[@gdupler1966]

@@jamesfogartysr2156 I wish you the best with it! Car folks are a good group in general.

[@keikeiasako]

excellent video, thanks for your efforts. I have two 2000 tundras both with super low miles but (under 70k) but with their age I think a new timing belt is in order. You made it look pretty easy, not quick but you pros always make it look easy! I am confident to give her a go.

[@gdupler1966]

First gen Tundras are reliable, affordable trucks. Super low miles on yours! Take your time and the job will be well worth it.

[@tay767ped]

Thanks G. My son's Runner is back up and running nicely.

[@gdupler1966]

Glad to hear it! Has he had a good experience with the V8 4runner? I have been eyeing those as well.

[@levsheppard2859]

I was debating tacking this job for my 4unner's second timing belt replacement @300k KM. but you made it look very doable to any diy'er.

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you and glad to help. Set aside plenty of time so you don't rush and you can do it!

[@DFA2503]

Helped us out a lot…thanks! But, those other plastic covers that no one talks about in any video took forever to put together haha

[@gdupler1966]

Yes, and don't break them. Toyota puts a premium on its plastic parts. Fender flares for Tacomas are out of sight!

[@dougr3577]

I took a pool noodle , sliced it down and slipped it on the metal, after taking out the radiator! Makes it so easy to hang Over and work.

[@nknasi]

Thanks for making this. I followed this video while doing this on my 2006 Tundra. The fan bracket was the hardest part for me. That phillips screw on the AC compressor was NOT coming off. haha.

[@gdupler1966]

Glad it worked out for you! Sounds like a smooth operation overall. What did you have to do to remove the screw?

[@nknasi]

@@gdupler1966 I ended up loosening the entire compressor (without fully removing it) enough to free the front lower fan bracket bolt. It was difficult because the front upper AC bolt has next to no clearance since the hard line is right next to it. Just went slow and had to slightly bend the metal plate the screw attaches to.

[@gdupler1966]

@@nknasi Good and interesting solution. Thanks for sharing! I was thinking penetrating oil but it was more involved than just oil.

[@drewduncan1670]

I’ve seen, on the South Main Auto channel, the guy use basically a hand held impact driver that you strike with a hammer to break loose tough philips or slotted screws like that. I’ve been meaning to get one to try it out.

[@gdupler1966]

@Drew Duncan That is true. I have such an impact tool from Tekton. It comes in handy when removing phillips screws from brake rotors.

[@jeffyoung8047]

i am so thankful for these "how to" videos, im going to do mine next week...

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks for watching and I wish you well on your project! Check out the description and comments for more information if you need it.

[@classicreaction5340]

Just a suggestion.....when doing this project you should definitely consider putting in a new radiator. The radiators fail internally without warning and mixes transmission fluid into your antifreeze. Mine just failed yesterday at 144k miles. Apparently it is a very common occurrence on these trucks. The radiator itself is actually pretty cheap at under $200. Definitely an easier job to do BEFORE it fails, because now I have to flush both my coolant AND my transmission to get everything cleaned out again. I was very lucky that I noticed the problem before my transmission was ruined. This time instead of using the internal radiator cooler for the transmission, I installed a separate transmission cooler in front of the AC condenser, so this issue can never happen again, and also to help keep the transmission even cooler, since I tow sometimes. Just a little heads up. Great video......keep those Tundras alive!

[@gdupler1966]

Good points here. Another friend suggested replacing the thermostat and that is certainly a good, cheap addition to the project. I have kept the coolant flushed and fresh since the truck was nearly new, but I agree that replacing the radiator is a good idea above 200k and likely a must above 300k. I also like the separate transmission oil cooler for a permanent fix.

[@ATMOS13GT]

Great video , helped me replace my water pump thanks!

[@msracing4423]

Awesome video. Very in depth. Thank you.

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you for watching!

[@rorywynhoff1549]

Thank you, starting on mine tomorrow. Very helpful!!

[@johngonzaba259]

Great video ! It has helped me out with my 2004 Toyota Sequoia 4.7L.

[@gdupler1966]

Glad it helped!

[@Super98456]

Thanks old mate, welled videoed & very easy to understand, top job, thanks for showing your Dad, the older fellows have a lot of knowledge eh, cheers to you both,🍺🍺😎😎

[@gdupler1966]

Cheers and thanks to you as well! We would all save some time and trouble by listening to some older, wiser fellows.

[@durango8882]

Just had this done on my 2004 Tundra $$ but runs perfectly 😀💪🏻

[@gdupler1966]

Glad to hear it went well!

[@manuelparedes190]

great way to explain I thing I can do ti now THANK YOU BOTH fron the Dominican Reoublic.

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you and we wish you well with your project!

[@ozarad6263]

It's cool you have a dad help you out.

[@gdupler1966]

I agree. Something all dads should share with their children.

[@dmamrenko12]

Detailed steps, according to the presentation and edits made in this video. I did not add timestamps Job: 1. Remove the air intake. 2. Remove bottom plate. 3. Drain the radiator from bottom. 4. Remove all hoses coming from radiator. 5. Remove radiator strouds. 6. Remove radiator. 7. Remove fan. 8. Remove idler pulley. 9. Remove passenger side and middle timing belt covers. 10. Remove power steering pump and move out of the way, do not disconnect. 11. Remove timing belt tensioner. 12. Remove oil cooler. Expect coolant to leak. 13. Remove drivers side timing belt cover (lcam). 14. Remove AC compressor bracket. 15. Remove water pump. 16. Crank engine to center using, watch for right left and bottom alignment(on 0). 17. Using an impact wrench remove the crankshaft pulley, may also need puller. 18. Remove lower timing belt cover. 19. Remove beveled keyed gear. (goes away from the belt) 20. Slowly remove the timing belt tensioner. 21. Remove the timing belt. 22. Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley. 23. Remove water pump. 24. Install new water pump with silicone coated o-ring. Torque to spec. 18N/m / 21N/m 25. Install new idler pulley. Bolt threads get threadlocker. Torque to spec. 34.5N/m 26. Install new timing belt tensioner pulley. Bolt threads get threadlocker. Torque to spec. 34.5N/m 27. Install timing belt tensioner. Torque to spec. 26N/m 28. Install timing belt. Go from bottom counter-clockwise to leave slack at the tensioner. 29. Install timing belt gear plate. (Watch the bevel, away from belt) 30. Install lower timing belt cover. (Low torque) 31. Install crank pulley. 32. Install fan bracket with fan bearing. Torque to spec. 26N/m for smaller, 32N/m for larger. 33. Install AC compressor bracket. 34. Install driver side timing belt cover. 35. Install oil cooler hose. 36. Install serpentine (accessory) belt tensioner. 16N/m (below pulley) and 39N/m for alternator bolts. 37. Re-connect power steering pump. 38. Re-connect power steering pump reservoir. 39. Install lower timing belt cover. 40. Install passenger side timing belt cover. 41. Install upper thermostat housing w/ new o-ring, use gasket maker for main water passage(rectangular). Wait for gasket maker to set up before torquing bolts. 42. Install serpentine belt idler pulley. Torque to spec. 39N/m 43. Install fan with clutch. Torque to spec. 30N/m 44. Install accessory/serpentine belt. 45. Install radiator and clean it out if needed. Torque to spec. 12N/m 46. Install upper fan shroud. Torque to spec. (5-7)N/m 47. Install lower fan shroud. 48. Re-connect transmission cooler lines. 49. Install upper and lower radiator hoses. 50. Install Air Intake. 51. Add coolant. 52. Top-off transmission fluid. 53. Install battery. 54. Start her up. About to do this on a 2004 Tundra Double Cab. OEM parts are not always terribly far off price-wise from aftermarket, I am having luck on Ebay a lot but for some things like hoses I may sway into the aftermarket options. Thanks

[@gdupler1966]

Good deal! I appreciate the added feature! With the Aisin being OEM, the cost wouldn't be much more to go complete OEM.

[@raulbueno4284]

Nice Toyota Tundra man I my dad used to have a 2003 Toyota Tundra limited edition we did the same thing as you guys did 6 years ago at a hundred and eighty-six thousand miles when that truck got totaled and we replace the timing belt when it had a hundred forty Thousand Miles that truck was the best Shrek my dad ever had he still loves her still in this game now he has the new tundra but he still misses his old Tundra but I truck is the best reliable strong trucks you can get overbuilt over-engineered Kabob Toyota Tundras

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks! Yes, I am a fan of the first gen Tundras too. Reliable and big, but not too big.

[@mamatronic963]

What a thorough explanation! Thanks!

[@gdupler1966]

Glad you liked it! Good luck with your project!

[@73SDR]

I always loosen the fan clutch with the belt on. It's like a built in strap wrench. If it slips just lean on the tensioner a bit.

[@gdupler1966]

Great point and I plan to do that on the next one.

[@ecarasig]

Great DIY video. Thank you for the part numbers

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks, happy to help!

[@kCI251]

TIP: leave the serpantine belt on until you take off the fan. The belt helps hold the fan pulley.

[@mfnd502]

1:47 Elvis Presley stopped by to check your progress.

[@gdupler1966]

Making sure we weren't all shook up, uh-huh-huh

[@yamsup7618]

Nice video! Quick question. Aren’t you supposed to line the timing marks on “T” mark?

[@robertgorge1152]

Very good and detail job.thank for your video.

[@HagnerAndrade]

Thanks for this video. I just bought a 2004 Sequoia, which I supposed be exactly the same.

[@gdupler1966]

Yes, same engine. Variable timing (VVT-i) was not added until 2005.

[@brokenfinn9594]

thanks for the instructional video. I am gathering info so I can do mine very soon.

[@gdupler1966]

Good deal. Hope it goes well! Watch those extra specs on a 2005 or later.

[@imadmsrati8000]

Thank you very much for the video and I wish you success always.. accept my regards

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you and I hope your project goes well too!

[@JoseMendoza-mv1ig]

Dude this video is top of the line.. Solid job man 💯💯💪🏽💪🏽

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks! I appreciate you!

[@KevinSoupy]

Hi I have an 06 tundra with the 4.7 180K I bout the same kit. 1A auto removed the ac compressor is it necessary? Thanks for making videos and helping people! People don’t understand how much extra effort you put into an already hard install. But add making an informative N short straight to the point videos. To help other save thousands. (Those with qualified experience, knowledge of engine mechanical works and lastly confidence) Its nice to have something to refer back to and 9/10 whenever I ask questions they are answered without any bs. I’m not a specialist in any particular field. I enjoy working on my own trucks. Because 9/10 when you have the block broken down you see other problematic things that need to replace. And inspect areas may break down. Some shops purposely just ignore it so the customer can return 3 months later to supplement their income.

[@gdupler1966]

We didn't see a need to remove the A/C compressor. There is a small heater hose near the compressor so it may help with replacing that hose. You would want to be careful not to disconnect the A/C hoses because then you would need a system evac and recharge.

[@KevinSoupy]

@@gdupler1966 thank you I used this as my reference so far so good I used silicone for easy slide on the water pump

[@gdupler1966]

@@KevinSoupy Good deal, I hope the whole job goes smoothly!

[@ronhughley6510]

Or loose. The bolts on the fan before removing belt. Wouldnt that work as well. Great vid. Gave me info i needed

[@gdupler1966]

Yes, you are right, that would be easier. More tension on the bolts. Wrench method is good as a backup.

[@OrangeCrush440]

Great Vid, but thought I might add that it really isn't necessary to remove the top part of the fan shroud. You can just pull off the bottom part and then slide the rad up through the top with the shroud in place. It will save you a little bit of time and hassle. The radiator on the sequoia is so easy to remove that I pull it any time I need to do some work on the front part of the engine.

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks, and thanks for the point on the fan shroud! I will try your method next time.

[@alcab4960]

Very helpful. Thank you

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks for watching!

[@jayinla228]

It's seems you placed your belt backwards. At 24:34 it shows the mark on the belt says L-cam but it's on the right cam and vice versa for the left cam.

[@gdupler1966]

You are right. I paid no attention to the marks on the belt. You can use them if you would like, but they are not necessary. There are more details in the description and in a conversation with Dave g in the comments.

[@PanditaP]

I was wondering that too! I’d use it just for reassurance.

[@eddiejr3934]

I need to get this done just bought a 2001 toyota tundra v8 4.7 with 159k miles on it

[@ozzie3056]

Lol I bought the exact year and exact miles 😁 the other day . I had to double check if that was me who posted.

[@eddiejr3934]

@@ozzie3056 damn haha thats nice man👌 I decided to wait until 200k miles though these are solid built trucks. I have zero issues with mine 😎 i don't even drive it much though.

[@ozzie3056]

@@eddiejr3934 is it original tho? Mines original so I'm paranoid. I'm taking mine in for the timing belt and water pump tomorrow. I paid 3300 for the truck so I figured with the steal I got ill invest it back.

[@eddiejr3934]

@@ozzie3056 yes. But true that man. You should if you feel like it should be done. these trucks can go over 200k with orignal timing belt and water pump. But i might do mine soon also. But Damn you got a better deal then me. I got my truck for 5k but its in mint condition inside very clean and out. Only has faded paint. But runs really well. And has new tires. I got my truck 6 months ago and only put 600 miles on it lol

[@mrantone916]

Beautiful , awesome work much appreciate. 🙏

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks!

[@randyrivera1089]

planning to do this on my sequoia 2006...thanks sir

[@nickd.7267]

I have stressor is, don't forget to replace the idler pulleys. I own the Sequoia where somebody didn't do that and their place the timing belt itself and I thought it was something like a serpentine pulley but no I had to do an entire timing belt to replace them. Also, if you hear a grinding noise, I highly recommend pulling off your serpentine and running it and seeing where it's at, otherwise, one of them can seize and the timing belt will break and you don't want to drop a valve on these engines these are very expensive engines.

[@gdupler1966]

Yes, I agree. We did the idlers as well. There are some with the kit and the accessory idler is available separately.

[@mitchelperez4522]

Good video, the timing belt is in reverse but anyway will work, just pay attention at the left side te belt is marked right cam, is not important because the timing marks are on the right place, just a observation

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks! I don't pay attention to the marks on the belt because some have marks and some don't. I just focus on tdc and lining up the marks on the engine. See the discription for more info.

[@b4aftermatch257]

great video thanks for the tips

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks for watching and the kind words!

[@CaliKuttzClips]

Great video tell your dad thanks too !

[@gdupler1966]

Will do! Thank you!

[@williammetropulos1757]

This video is just what I needed today! I'm just ready to install a timing belt on my 2003 Tundra 4.7 V-8 and after watching you have answered some questions I really need help with. So, thank you for that. I can't recall, but what is the starting sequence to reboot computer etc.. Is it..turn ignition to on, then off 2 times then start on the 3rd? I hope this makes sense. Thanks so much!

[@gdupler1966]

Good deal, happy to help! If the battery is disconnected for 5 to 10 minutes, the ecm will reset and clear any codes. I haven't done any particular reset procedure after replacing the belt and parts, but it would be good to turn to ignition, sit there for 30 seconds or so, then turn off and then crank it.

[@williammetropulos1757]

@@gdupler1966 Thank you again!!!!!!

[@teddiazjr.6223]

Great video and details

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks for watching!

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks for watching!

[@mickeydoolittle2057]

Great job! Thanks

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks for watching!

[@mickeydoolittle2057]

@@gdupler1966 I’m convinced that the dealership “pencil whipped” my timing belt at 100k. After watching videos like this one, I realize that there should have been witness marks on clamps & bolts, etc. Now I know why he didn’t want to do the water pump. They just put a sticker saying the timing belt was done. I wasn’t quick enough to challenge them though. Now I have 255k on my 2001 Sequoia. She is still running and shifting great, but I want to do the necessary maintenance. This video was probably the best tutorial I’ve seen. Thanks for the torque values as well. One question that I have, is the only “left handed threaded” bolt the one in the accessory belt tensioner, or are there others? Thanks

[@gdupler1966]

@@mickeydoolittle2057 I empathize with your dealer experience, as one of the reasons I like to do things myself is that I know it is done, and usually done right. If it is wrong, I only have myself to blame. On the tensioner, I believe you are correct about the pulley bolt thread, but we replaced the whole tensioner assembly so we didn't have to deal with any left handed bolts.

[@mickeydoolittle2057]

@@gdupler1966 thanks so much for the info. You are a great help!

[@gdupler1966]

@@mickeydoolittle2057 happy to help, and thanks for watching!

[@evelynboyce3027]

Sir you are awesome! One question for ya if I had everything lined up she belt was tight, I tried to spin it two rounds to make sure it was on proper but I'm not strong enough to do 2 full rounds would that mess up my lines?

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks! If you had the marks lined up and the belt is tight, you should be good. You are fighting compression in the engine so if you want to spin it and double check, I suggest removing the spark plugs so it will turn easier.

[@evelynboyce3027]

@@gdupler1966 thank you my dear

[@djlouis2150]

Yeah I done my wife's 2005 Toyota sequoia 5.7L v8 it was a challenge but I did it. water pump Replacement timing belt with 260.000 miles on it

[@gdupler1966]

At that mileage it is a must. I bet it runs great now!

[@djlouis2150]

@@gdupler1966 yes it does runs great and strong

[@outdoorswithzeke5783]

I’m having some trouble with the lower fan bracket bolt underneath the AC compressor re-installing it for some reason it won’t screw back on. Did you have trouble reinstalling that bolt?

[@danielmoiser744]

Hello I have a 2005 engine does the mark on the cam go on the T ?? Instead of the line like in your video.

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you for watching! The simplest answer I know for TDC versus the T mark is that it depends upon the year. 2005 and above you use the T mark in some form or fashion (due to the VVT-i). The instructions from the Aisin kit are as follows covering your 2005: 2005-08: Turn the crankshaft clockwise until No.1 cylinder at TDC with timing marks aligned. Turn the crankshaft clockwise a further 50° until pulley timing mark aligned with guide pulley bolt. Camshaft sprocket timing marks will move forward 25°

[@salongoedmondmpungu2928]

Great 👍 video. Very few people can match this job. Thanks dude ☺️

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you! I greatly appreciate you!

[@Ojb_1959]

Excellent tutorial but for me being a shade tree mechanic I better leave timing belts to you pros. My 03 has 96k so it’s overdue. One tip though, when I change my oil I don’t have to remove the bottom plate. After I drain the oil in the pan underneath, I just put a flexible qt. size plastic tub like a margarine container under the oil filter and after breaking it loose first then finish unscrewing it just let it and the oil fall in the tub. Thanks from S. Louisiana.

[@gdupler1966]

Nice tip! I will have to try that..

[@nicksterklad1]

Good job thanks for doing that video

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you!

[@mtyota]

Any tips on staying organized with the bolts and so many parts coming off? Newbie DIYer

[@gdupler1966]

Yes, set aside a spot in your garage, you can even go down the side of the truck, to line up the parts as they come off and keep the bolts with the respective parts. Once everything is out, you then reverse the order and by keeping every part in line, you don't leave out something.

[@barocioanthony959]

Great video thank you. How much time is expected to take doing this job ? Estimated

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks for watching! I would recommend setting aside a whole day and take your time.

[@barocioanthony959]

@@gdupler1966 thanks will do

[@jamesp5301]

I believe those bolt holes on the crank pulley can also be used with a pulley holder like I used on my Lexus several years ago? Correct

[@carlwoodby1641]

In your video, which is really great, it indicates that the right hand cam is on the left side of the vehicle, and vis versa. Can you explain, is this correct?

[@gdupler1966]

I don't pay attention to the marks on the belt. Some timing belts have them and some don't. If you want to use them you can, but I focus on lining up the marks on the pulleys and keeping the belt tight.

[@LawnMowerGuy]

great video. I am at the point to remove the timing belt, but at this point the crank is lined up to the 0 mark but the mark on the cams are a little bit off their I marks more towards the T marks. How do I do to have them line up perfectly both of them to the I marks, Turn the crank several times to the right clockwise until it finally all line up correctly?

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks. If it were me I would rotate the crank to the point where all three marks (crank and two cams) line up. I have seen situations where it was off just slightly and then corrected with the new belt, but I would still try to line them up at tdc.

[@LawnMowerGuy]

@@gdupler1966 thanks you, i reinstalled the crank shaft and bolt and turned the crankshaft clockwise several times trying to line up the 3 marks, still off a little bit : right cam shaft a little bit, the left (driver side) a little more. So at this point I decided to remove the timing belt and the tensioner. so far so good. but then i decided to see if I could line up the camshafts marks. Right side jump a bit counterclockwise pass the I mark however the Left cam jumped quite a lot again counterclockwise way passed the I mark about 50 degree. So I turned the camshafts clockwise to line up with the cam marks. So my question is did i did something very wrong and how at this point should i correct my mistakes before i start removing the water pump.

[@gdupler1966]

@@LawnMowerGuy my experience is if you just have minimal camshaft movement and you put the cams back to the proper place with minimal movement to put it back to the proper place you should be fine. You may want to use a clamp to secure the cam pulleys as you work. If you have a 2005 or above engine you will want to use a particular procedure discussed in the comments. 2004 and earlier go by tdc.

[@cdevkat1]

probably a dumb question but why didn't take the rad fan off when the serpentine belt was still tensioned on the pulley to keep the fan from spinning?

[@gdupler1966]

Not a dumb question at all. In fact, your suggestion is an easier way to do it. Nice to have options, right?

[@robertsrepairmobileservice9104]

Did I catch that correctly on your timing belt install. did you not line up the lines on the belt with the timing marks on heads and the marks on the cam?? Did you count the teeth in between the two lines on the belt to make sure it was the same amount of teeth on the belt where you placed the belt on your two cams & head timing marks? don't get me wrong excellent video!! job well done! I just caught that little detail there and that's where I'm at on mine. I just wanted to know if you did that and if you didn't do that , did you get lucky and and and get it right or did you have to reset it ??? sorry to call this out on such an excellent video. normally I would never do this but I'm right at the point to where that's where I'm at. I'm having troubles getting the lines to stay on the cams seems like the belt needs a stretch a little bit to get the lugs to settle in place. I don't want to do this job again for a small detail like this overlooked. Your reply would be much appreciated in anxiously waited for thank you for the video though it's been most helpful and nicely done also I can appreciate the Newton Meters in foot pounds terminologies

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks for the good words and sorry I didn't see your post earlier. I am trying to catch up. I have not paid attention to the marks on the belt any time I have replaced a belt kit (several Tundras). You can use them if you would like and feel more comfortable, but some belts don't have them and I haven't used them on 2004 and earlier engines. I have also seen DIY's obsess about the marks on the belt instead of focusing on the marks on the engine. Lining up the marks on the pulleys is the key. Keep the pulleys in place and when the belt is tightened, the marks on the cam pulleys and crank should be lined up. There are more details in the description and in a conversation with Dave g in the comments.

[@chrispeterson1247]

I thought you were supposed to advance the timing 50 degrees to the T marks to unload the cams and stop them from jumping?

[@ronaldo77782]

Thank you for sharing.

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you for watching!

[@DJDisalwaysright]

Great video. But, I was hoping to see the change out of the camshaft position sensor. I’m trying to do this by removing the camshaft cover only...not the whole front

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks! I found a page out of the Toyota shop manual at R Tundra Solutions that should help. Check it out: www.tundrasolutions.com/attachments/remo-pdf.54642/

[@DJDisalwaysright]

@@gdupler1966 man, you are awesome!

[@gdupler1966]

@@DJDisalwaysright Thanks! Happy to help!

[@RubberChickenMan007]

Hey, thanks for the video! Did you by chance have the part numbers for the hoses at the 27:30 time stamp?

[@gdupler1966]

Thank you! Yes, they are listed in the description under Toyota oil cooler hoses.

[@RubberChickenMan007]

@@gdupler1966 Awesome, thank you! Hope you had an amazing Christmas and New Year's.

[@gdupler1966]

@@RubberChickenMan007 It was a great time celebrating the Lord with the family! Hope you had a great time and your project turns out well!

[@TuanLe-ko5rm]

Ready for another 100k😊

[@craigoller9283]

Great video! Very informative. I have experience replacing timing belts on the 3.4L in the 4Runner. Are there seals behind the cams and crank gears similar to the 3.4L?

[@gdupler1966]

Thanks! Yes, there are seals but in my experience they have good longevity and I don't mess with them unless there is a problem. The process is more involved than the 3.4 and the cam seals include removing the valve covers and unbolting the cam guides.

[@craigoller9283]

Thanks! I watched a video on replacing the seals and you are correct. More involved than the 3.4L. It seems that if you are replacing the valve cover gaskets that would be the time to do the cam shaft seals.

[@gdupler1966]

@@craigoller9283 I agree. If there is an issue with the valve covers when you are working on the timing belt that would be the time to take a hard look at the seals.

[@jamespolucha6911]

If you take the radiator out how do you know how much atf to put back in ? No trans dip stick

[@199isabeast]

Once it’s tdc you you can just put the belt on as long as the cam gears are aligned correct?

[@gdupler1966]

Yes, if you have a 2000 to 2004 you just line up the crank and cam pulleys at TDC. If it is 2005 or later, there are extra steps that have been discussed in the comments. Check out the comments from Lee Malis and Tyler for 05 and later.

[@johnshowler2543]

just going to acquire a 2002 Sequoia wih 187K miles. was told it has always been dealer serviced, which i believe to be true. I am going to call the service dealer and see if I can verify service records. that said, could you tell us how much the cost of all the parts & kit were? Tedious job but doable. very very nicely done vid.

[@gdupler1966]

I bought all the parts from RockAuto except for the small Toyota brand hoses. The RockAuto parts currently run approximately $530 with tax and shipping. Add another $50 or so for the small hoses. If you don't have coolant on hand, add for that expense as well.