STIFFER 1994-2004 Mustang FRONT SWAY BARS Part 1 // STEEDA 35mm FRONT SWAY BAR: Autocross Review

[@scottersandman6408]

Another fine video. I will keep checking back for part II.

[@warhorseracing]

Thank you!

[@5speedsuave]

my favorite automotive youtuber! love to see an upload even when it’s not related to my car!

[@warhorseracing]

That is really nice to hear! Thank you!

[@BestUnderPressure]

I think my Cobra suspension setup is a lot different than yours but I do have this front sway bar. I like it. I am on 275 RE71's square and was having a problem is oversteer. I recently disconnected the rear swaybar and it transformed the car. It's very neutral feeling now unless I step over the edge.

[@warhorseracing]

One of the reasons why I make these videos is to show that there is no "one size fits all" sway bar choice for our cars. It's a balance of performance and personal preference. I've seen these cars perform well with many different sway bars. It's all about finding what works and wins.

[@JHawk90-ww8yi]

Have you ever used or known someone that used the QA1 rear swaybar? It seems like it may have some adjustment since you can probably slide the sway bar back and forth in the mounts it uses. Also, thank you so much for all of your videos, I just started auto crossing my SN95 and it has been a blast!

[@warhorseracing]

I have never used a QA1 rear sway bar, and I don't know anyone who uses one on their autocross Mustang. I looked at the description & the instructions on QA1's website and they do not mention adjustability, which I think is a feature they would advertise. There is a note that the QA1 rear sway bar doesn't work with OEM lower control arms; they also have wording on their website that reads: "Requires use of QA1 5221 lower trailing arms." I suspect those restrictions limit the popularity of the QA1 rear sway bar. Thank you for checking out my channel! If you have any other questions about autocrossing your SN95, please ask. I'm always happy to help.

[@arrgorndenethor]

I just did suspension on my 04 Mustang GT this year, basically a complete suspension overhaul, I didn't go with adjustable shocks, just bilsteins and H&R race springs with Maxium Motorsport caster/camber plates, I'm still getting the feel of the car and not sure if I need to go to a different sway bar in the future or not.. sway bars are stock, all bushings are poly

[@warhorseracing]

Getting a feel for the car is key. There's a lot that goes into selecting sway bars. I have another video about stiffer sway bars for 79-04 SRA Mustangs that you might find helpful.

[@JoJones-h2c]

I just did something similar to you, but I also have the MM K Member and offset A-arms. I have an MM coilover setup on the front with 425 lbs/ft springs , H&R race springs on the back and stock Bilsteins all round. The coilover conversion alone transformed the handling and road manners. Driven on the street, it absorbs bumps a lot better too. I then added a Steeda 35mm and went auto crossing. I was blown away at the overall improvement, which is so much more predictable. Next will be to coilover the rear and purchase the MM valved Bilsteins,

[@Megacatares]

I am having a hard time finding how to install the steeda sway bar brackets. I'm pretty sure it's not that difficult but I am not sure. I've actually rebuilt a mustang frame before due to rust and have extensive sn95 mustang rebuilding experience. I'm no dummy just stumped here. Can the stock bolts in the frame be reused or do you have to use the steeda supplied ones? If so do you have a technique for replaced those bolts without cutting into the frame. Thank you for your help 😀

[@warhorseracing]

There should be two holes in the frame rail that have squared-off extensions (sort of shaped like two skulls). The Steeda carriage bolts slide into the squared-off sections (with the heads inside the frame). I always use some painter's tape to hold the bolts in place. I also use painter's tape to hold the upper part of the sway bar bracket in place against the frame (just make sure it can't come loose and let the aluminum bracket fall). I support the sway bar with jack stands, which allows me to get the lower part of the bracket in place and start the nuts. IIRC, there are retainers for the OEM sway bar bolts in the frame. Those need to come out to install the Steeda bolts. I hope that info helps.

[@Megacatares]

@@warhorseracing retainers like nuts? Ok the steeda extensions go in the big hole and slide into the smaller part this makes sense. I have had 4 new edges they are awesome. I always think they drive like a truck. I just got this one back up. It was on a jt blower but down a hole. I just rebuilt the engine with a chp stroker kit, Chevy sized eagle rods, dss pistons, trick flow heads, mhs stg 4 cams, on3 turbo kit. I wish I went twin turbo instead of single it’s just what I found 2nd hand but in new shape at a steep discount. It really takes up all of the real estate running the single. Anyway thanks again. I really appreciate it. I already have a cheap sr performance front and rear sway bar. This will help bring it together. I plan to do this after I do the weld in subframe connectors, panhard bar - scotidi makes a really nice one for 450, better than maximum Motorsports and J&m lower control arms in the rear. It is on tubular up front due to turbo fitment. Have you done the ats brakes yet? Im on cobra but I think those would be a huge upgrade. They make a bracket for 200 bucks to run them. Thanks again

[@warhorseracing]

@@Megacatares It's been a while since I've dealt with the OEM sway bar bracket hardware, so I looked at some old photos. The retainers are like a speed nut; instead of a nut, they keep the bolt positioned in the frame so that the threaded ends go through the bracket. I love my New Edge cars. As you can tell, I'm a big fan of Fox Body and SN95 Mustangs. It sounds like you're working on a fun project. I haven't felt the need to run ATS brakes on my autocross cars. The Cobra brakes and Hawk pads I use provide more than enough braking for autocross. I'm always happy to help!

[@hunterkime1759]

Any thoughts on brake pads for autocross? Im looking into Hawk hps 5.0 front hps rear

[@warhorseracing]

I need some more information to be able to give you the best answer. What size rotors F & R? Do you daily drive the car or is it just for autocross? How much does the car weigh?

[@hunterkime1759]

​@@warhorseracing 13in front 12 rear cobra setup on foxbody, 3100 plus lbs almost 3400 me in it driven very hard every time, autocross duty

[@warhorseracing]

@@hunterkime1759 I use Cobra F & R brakes on my 1992 GT with Hawk HP Plus pads up front and HPS pads in the rear. The HP Plus pads offer great initial bite and are very aggressive. They create a LOT of dust (I need to clean out the holes in my rotors after every event), they squeal when I drive to and from events, and they wear out rotors faster than less-aggressive pads. Even with an adjustable proportioning valve, I prefer the HPS pads in the rear because anything more aggressive would lead to the rear brakes locking up. I've never used the HPS 5.0 pads, but they appear to be positioned in between the HPS and the HP Plus. They are an aggressive "street" pad, which usually means less initial bite (than an autocross/track pad). Brake pad choice is setup/driver dependent. I prefer more initial bite because I can poke the brakes and quickly transfer weight to the front end. You might prefer something different. Whichever front pads you choose, I do think it's wise to use less-aggressive pads in the rear.

[@NewEdgeDesigns]

I have Eibach front and rear sway bars with sportline springs… It’s pretty neutral..

[@warhorseracing]

I had an interesting experience with my Eibach sway bars. I'll cover that (and more) in Part 2.

[@NewEdgeDesigns]

@@warhorseracing looking forward to it..

[@danieldoroff6723]

Anyone know the weight of a stock front bar? Tubular seems like a good way to loose some weight

[@warhorseracing]

I will get one of my OEM SN95 front sway bars out of storage and let you know how much it weighs.

[@warhorseracing]

I weighed my OEM 2004 V6 1" front sway bar & my OEM 2000 GT 27mm front sway bar on the same scale I weighed the Steeda sway bar. OEM V6 1": 12 lbs. OEM GT 27mm: 13 lbs.

[@danieldoroff6723]

@@warhorseracing good to know that the steeda is a good pound or 2 lighter than my stock 94/95 bar I have been running!