still no spark on this old Kohler 10 Hp engine.

[@ironman332]

Found out we can make the old machine a little advance with a electric point style waiting for it from Amazon only one place have it

[@victorrodea7163]

Glad i found your video. Working on a similar Kohler engine at the moment, similar situation with it.thanks for your help. Ill keep watching.

[@Mike-su8si]

Oh thanks man I just now learned mine isn't grounded from you showing yours that I'll remember when the parts come in

[@MissouriOldTimer]

thanks, I know this video is crappy because of the light coming in the door.

[@Mike-su8si]

@@MissouriOldTimer no it's not that bad

[@builtrodewreckedit]

all i can think is the points are grounded. get a meter and check continuity the stationary part of the points is grounded and the moving part and spring needs to not show continuity or (not grounding out) when open... im kinda wondering if the pivot or spring are put together in the wrong order with the insulators or plastic washers

[@hermanrich1882]

Hey if you clean the rust off the inside of your magnet and the coil it will fire becouse any little rust it won’t make contact then slide the fly wheel back on and spin it you should get a spark you might have to ajust your points if you still don’t get no fire I had the same problem

[@BRIANVANDUYN]

I have this same welder with no spark I cant figure it out!!!!! I put a new coil on it . New condenser and new points and nothing

[@MissouriOldTimer]

same here, I did all that stuff and finely cleaned the new points and re set them and it took off. sometimes even new points after sitting a long time develop kind of a coating and won't spark.

[@GeorgiaRidgerunner]

I think a set of points will do the trick for you dc current can be a bit finicky with age especially if theres corrosion on anything

[@GardenTractorBoy]

This looks like a challange. I would try putting some new points in, they may be grounding even if it is not obvious

[@MissouriOldTimer]

I have some new points ordered hopefully that will help.

[@georgiaboy4410]

I have no idea but I’m sure you’ll get it going👍🏻

[@MissouriOldTimer]

thanks for the confidence.

[@dukesworld3020]

It looks like you have everything but a hot wire from the coil to the points. You may have it and I just missed it.

[@MissouriOldTimer]

that's supposed to be the black wire that Y's off at the end for one to go to the condenser and one to the points.

[@Oldvet1946]

The points cause the coil to drop its load. The condenser just protects the points from arcs. So you must have a set of points that are grounded for some reason.

[@MissouriOldTimer]

I ordered a set last night so hopefully that helps.

[@Mike-su8si]

They hook to the ground wire yes

[@jadenwilliams6330]

I have a cub108 I was installing kill switch and had it go wrong everything is back to stock and now my ignition won’t work but if I jump the solenoid it will crank over but won’t start due to no spark and I’m not sure where to go from now

[@MissouriOldTimer]

I suspect the kill lug on your switch is grounding,, try to unhook that wire from where it hooks onto the engine and try it,, that might be the problem,, I hope this helps,,

[@jadenwilliams6330]

@@MissouriOldTimer that’s the thing the switch is already un Installed and everything’s back to normal but won’t crank unless I jump solenoid and has no spark

[@MissouriOldTimer]

@@jadenwilliams6330 did you try to remove the kill wire at the engine and let it hang, and try it,, if not then there a diode or two that controls the spark but I cant remember just how that was hooked up but you might try to google that and see if you fine out anything.

[@jadenwilliams6330]

@@MissouriOldTimer not sue what ir where those wires are located

[@phillipmorris1334]

hello from the sunny ozarks vernon!! must be a loose or ground wire.. tight lines and cheers!!

[@MissouriOldTimer]

it's odd, I will admit that.

[@phillipmorris1334]

@@MissouriOldTimer head scratcher!!

[@WaynJul]

Hopefully you or someone can help you get it running.

[@busman5429]

If were me. I would paint the welder "Miller Blue" and i bet it will run..Oldvet1946 and Rustglovebox i would follow through on with the grounded out points.

[@MissouriOldTimer]

I have ordered a set of points that seems to be the most answers.

[@Oldvet1946]

Where is the wire from the points to the coil? I am not seeing it for some reason.

[@MissouriOldTimer]

that's the black wire with a Y next to the points, it's along side the two orange wires that goes to the generator.

[@TechGorilla1987]

@@MissouriOldTimer Did you examine that 'Y' connection visibly? Maybe it's gooey and green with an occasional mega-ohm reading.

[@MissouriOldTimer]

@@TechGorilla1987 the Y is really a branch off the wire coming out of the coil. I am wondering if that wire is supposed to show continuity when I put a ohm meter lead to it and then to the short ground wire that's coming out of the back of the coil . should that wire show continuity? I really don't know much about electric.

[@TechGorilla1987]

@@MissouriOldTimer Is there a link where I can see the coil you bought? I would assume the coil was grounded through it's mounting. Could the ground be the kill wire? I'm just spitballing here. I hope you don't mind.

[@MissouriOldTimer]

@@TechGorilla1987 I don't mind at all, all help is appreciated,, well, the coil has two small wires coming out of it, and the one big spark plug wire, the one small wire is short and has an eyelet on it which connects to the body mechanism of the coil and the other small one goes out to the points and the Y goes off to the kill switch which isn't hooked up yet, I make sure that wire isn't touching ground when I check for spark. there is continuity when connecting the wire that goes to the ground wire to the other small wire coming out of the coil. not sure that should be that way.

[@jamespollard1670]

Sometimes they won't start or hard to start unless the points are .018-.020 . Are the points set on the high lobe ? Sometimes the coil needs to be within .025-.030 of the fly wheel . If those aren't it and the points and condenser are good it must be the wiring . Hope you get it .

[@MissouriOldTimer]

I don't know any way to set the air gap between the coil and magnets on this internal coil type, I guess I can re-set the points again, they might not be right.

[@TechGorilla1987]

@@MissouriOldTimer Oh? Is that gap under the flywheel when the coil is installed? No using a business card on that, for gap eh?

[@MissouriOldTimer]

@@TechGorilla1987 no it's not adjustable as far as I know, I think some of the older Tecumseh's were adjustable/timeable by slotted points and coil mounting plate, I thought this might be and I marked it before I took the coil off but it 's preset, I don't know how the air gap could be adjusted.

[@tomsmith707]

@@MissouriOldTimer hey did you get this running ?

[@MissouriOldTimer]

@@tomsmith707 yes, it worked great, in fact I showed it to a guy and he tried it out and bought it.

[@edgarochoa6285]

I have the same problem with the same exact machine it just don’t have spark. I tried to set the points with a multimeter and continuity and it stays beeping at any point is there anything you recommend doing ?

[@MissouriOldTimer]

I put in a new coil and that didn't help and after taking the points out for a second time and cleaning them real good and put them back in and reset them, and to my surprise it had spark and worked very well, in fact I sold it to a man , he tried it out and was happy by the way it started and welded.

[@WhoDat-cc8zo]

Running for higher ground??? Wish that orange wire would excite me!! I hope you figure it out.

[@MissouriOldTimer]

I get excited enough buy my wife won't go for it.. lol

[@WhoDat-cc8zo]

MissouriOldTimer yes sir! This leukemia has me on “the unexcited” list!!

[@MissouriOldTimer]

@@WhoDat-cc8zo just keep pegging at it, it'll get better.

[@RustyGlovebox]

The points must be grounding out

[@MissouriOldTimer]

apparently they are, I'll get a new set and try that.

[@TechGorilla1987]

@@MissouriOldTimer Could you stand them off with a slice of plastic or mica to check? Something is absolutely grounding out.

[@MissouriOldTimer]

@@TechGorilla1987 I'm gonna check that , surely it's something simple.

[@Mike-su8si]

@@TechGorilla1987 I know mine is or is missing the trigger module

[@matts3800]

Did you get it figured out yet?

[@MissouriOldTimer]

I think I didn't have the points set right at first, but it started working alright and I already sold it.

[@Mike-su8si]

@@MissouriOldTimer how you set the points mine are set close together how the old ones were unless I've gotta set the one further apart then it wont hit an tap the other piece if I do

[@MissouriOldTimer]

@@Mike-su8si they are kinda hard to see and get to, but they should be set at .020 (twenty thousands).

[@Mike-su8si]

@@MissouriOldTimer I'll remember that

[@johnstrange6799]

The answer is persistence. It seems you're trying everything. Points gap, air gap on the coil if applicable, enough magnetic strength in the flywheel magnets, condenser, new spark plug, test light on the points to make sure they are opening and closing enough to make and break contact, flywheel key not damaged or undersized enough to throw off the timing... Seems like it comes down to wiring somehow.

[@MissouriOldTimer]

but there's rally no where the wire could ground unless it's behind the coil and I looked that over good, but who knows, I just ordered a set of points and condenser.

[@johnstrange6799]

@@MissouriOldTimer New points and condenser can't hurt.

[@quachtinhho]

Good!!!

[@MissouriOldTimer]

thank you.

[@fishconsinlange8901]

I take it he got her running

[@MissouriOldTimer]

yes I got it going and sold it, thanks for commenting.

[@fishconsinlange8901]

Was it the ground, let me ask another way, I have a similar problem on an old John Deere skid steer. I get it to run for a few minutes and lose spark. Buddy gave me another (k321) and same problem. New coil, points, etc...it sure would up my selling price if I could fix this darn thing!

[@MissouriOldTimer]

@@fishconsinlange8901 usually if it runs till it warms up, it's the coil but you put a new one on so not likely the new one is bad, maybe there's a bare wire somewhere that touches ground ? I know the one I had was a nightmare to get going and honestly I don't know what of all the things I did actually got it going.

[@fishconsinlange8901]

Lol this one has been sitting for ten plus years, gas tank flushed numerous times and still finding moisture, it's a heck of a hobby sometimes! Not giving up! Have yourself a Great day! If it's not windy I think I'll just start backtracking wires from the new ignition lol!

[@MissouriOldTimer]

@@fishconsinlange8901 don't give up you will finely get it,, good luck.

[@buzzsah]

I had a Honda lawn tractor, it was a pain in the butt getting the spacing right. No spark, no charge, no run. I gave it to my neighbor :(

[@MissouriOldTimer]

lol let him fight with it for a while? lol

[@jankotze1959]

May be faulty new coil, I don't know Vernon

[@MissouriOldTimer]

I guess it could be, there's a way to test it, I might have to check into that more.

[@rickymoose4057]

you need to re magnetized your fly wheel

[@Pullingtractor]

Do away with the points & condenser, & install a universal solid state electronic ignition module. Go here for more information: gardentractorpullingtips.com/ignition.htm.

[@MissouriOldTimer]

well, I no longer have the welder but that would be the easiest fix.

[@Mike-su8si]

Is that what the trigger module is

[@Pullingtractor]

@@Mike-su8si If you're referring to the universal solid state electronic ignition module, then yes.

[@Mike-su8si]

@@Pullingtractor yeah i am.

[@Mike-su8si]

@@Pullingtractor it does say ignition trigger module on the old paper work. Mine has the coil condenser and points Their is one spot above the left side of the flywheel were the ignition trigger module goes I need that part the stator or magneto whatever one is under the flywheel and a 3 prong rectifier for the black 8hp Kohler k181s engine