DIY Geothermal Greenhouse Part 4: Earth Battery INSTALLATION

#113 After starting to build our DIY EMT electrical metal conduit (1.25") greenhouse two years ago, we are finally completing the project.
We readily admit we are not experts at this (we are not engineers, greenhouse experts, or thermodynamic scientists), but a family doing our best to do it all ourselves and install based on all that we have read or watched on KZbin (Don't believe everything you see on the internet) to date and in line with our limited budget. Based on comments, we already know some things should be done differently. Hopefully, it still works well enough, even if not optimally. We plan to share the results regardless.
In this video we are INSTALLING the passive solar geothermal earth battery system (or climate battery/thermal banking/ground to air heat transfer) after excavating 3,200 cubic feet of dirt from underneath the greenhouse with a Mahindra 3016 tractor. The idea is to use two high efficiency inline fans to pull hot air from the top of the greenhouse during the heat of the day down through a system of black corrugated drain pipes (600 linear feet) in the ground (300' buried at two feet and 300' at four feet) in order to heat the clay in the ground and return cooler air to the greenhouse. At night the process reverses, effectively warming the greenhouse for the cost of leaving a 150 watt light bulb on. In the summer, spring, and fall, this will help to keep the greenhouse cool(er) on hot days, and in the spring, fall, and winter it will help keep it warm(er) at night - we HOPE.
Background on the project: Our farm homestead came with metal pipes in the ground from a former 16' x 50' hoop house. It also had water lines run from the farm well (which also needed to be restored) and a 60 amp electric service. In the first video we installed the 1.25" EMT conduit that serves as the frame. In future videos we'll frame the end walls, run electric, and get the plastic cover on in time for winter.
Each rib or section of the greenhouse consists of three 10' pipes, no cutting. They are joined by stock EMT connectors. The two outer angles are 117.3. The ridge angle is 125.4. Sides are 6' tall. Just over 10' to the ridge. 16' wide.
Ultimately, this will be a double wall plastic film greenhouse.
+AMDG
Music
Epidemic Sound: "Rhythmic Guitar"
Jason Shaw: "Landra's Dream" goo.gl/pi68XB

[@michaeltullis6691]

If you are anywhere near as nice as guy as you seem in these videos, kudos to you. I'm grateful for the education you are sharing so generously with your audience, myself included!

[@nandakishorbhatt6250]

I thought the pipe would run like a snake instead of going parallel ,is there any specific reason to do the way you did? Isn't running the pipe in a continuous snake formation let the air more time to cool down? Tell me if iam wrong😊

[@zasde35]

You are right and you get never an equal flow trough the pipes , bad design .

[@roberthayes2027]

well done. thanks for showing us your experiences. it's great to be able to visualize how things might work out best.

[@mykal2803]

Im jealous, looks like a fun build and you have a great looking family hope to get there someday myself.

[@ritamccartt-kordon283]

I sure hope you have wonderful luck with this project! I plan on doing a greenhouse eventually and this is great information for anyone! I do NOT plan to dig everything by hand! I'm too OLD!! Bee Blessed Danny and Rita in TN on Rooster's Ridge

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Thank you! A backhoe would be the way to go with something like this, and my advice now would be to oversize EVERYTHING if I was going to do it again. OF course that means more money, but it would be a more effective system.

[@thevillafarm6105]

I did notice that you mention around 8:30 that the heating would apply for about 1 foot around the pipe. I am convinced that, due to thermal fluctuation, heat will seek upwards. Though I do not exactly know how the directional matrix, with its center in the pipe, would look like in dirt/gravel. To sum up. Heat can go down from a source, but will in most conditions go upwards. Therefore. The dirts ability to absorb thermal energy would only apply above the pipe, not underneath it.

[@waywardspringsacres]

Heat conducts equally in all directions in solids. I think you are referring to hot air rising in convective heat transfer, which only occurs in air or fluids.

[@timb7814]

Energy moves from higher temperature to lower temperature. One of the laws of physics and engineering. In air, that typically happens by convection, with hot air rising up. In soil, it is a completely different equation. You will extract energy almost equally from all directions around the pipe.

[@SalaamQuddus]

hello sir i am an engineer from australia am very interested in the idea but I cant understand the reason for the foam insulation as I believe this foam insulation will work against your purpose to exchange heat with the ground , for example in summer if you are cooling your greenhouse it means you are warming the cool ground underneath and these foams will stop the ground from being able to cool back down to keep supplying you with cold air

[@psyclone2004]

I wanted to add the same . The ground will cool down the area onlt from underneath

[@christianlibertarian5488]

I sure love this idea and hope it works. One worry is the distribution of air into the system. At low air velocities, I don't think it will be a big deal. But at higher velocities, there will be turbulence, raising the resistance. So the first split will see similar resistance in each direction, meaning volume will split roughly evenly between each side. But one side of the split connects to only one lateral run, while the other side goes to multiple. The heat/cold will be split asymmetrically. Its just a worry. Let's see if it is a real world problem.

[@dougstarr1]

I commend your efforts and i think your idea is sound, BUT, i saw no compacting going on. You cannot backfill 4 feet of dirt without compacting. In about a year you will begin having all kinds of settling problems. You should backfill in lifts of 1 foot maximum with vibratory compaction between each lift. There is no need to worry about crushing the corrugated pipe. It is designed to withstand the weight. One other things i noticed, you did no install filter fabric over and around the pipe. All you need is a small spot of dirt penetration and your pipe system is plugged and useless. I dont mean to critisize but these are major issues than be corrected before you get to far along if you havent already. Good Luck.

[@JohnGuest45]

@Bbjones Jones It best to dig narrow trenches so you dont disturb the bulk of the mass. Its cheaper than excavating the entire floor and considerably less work if your using a spade not a backhoe.

[@emanuelgoncalvessantos4499]

yeah the filling part make me anxious... You have to fill 30 to 40cm and compact....

[@StIsidoresFarm]

It settled some, but not a great deal.

[@StIsidoresFarm]

@@emanuelgoncalvessantos4499 It worked out fine. God bless!

[@davidschmidt270]

See...this is why on projects I like to read the comments...so I can be more aware !!! Thanks everyone 👏👏👏

[@stainless1981]

What about using like a #5 gravel around those pipes? Think that would retain the heat/cold air better? Are you worried that the clay might crush or fill the pipes? Great job on the project and the video, well done! So excited for you guys. :) Okay, makes sense on the gravel.

[@StIsidoresFarm]

It does not seem that the clay crushed the pipes. We tested the system last night and there seemed to be zero reduction on airflow. As to gravel, as I understand it we want clay up against the pipes as they are what will absorb and hold the heat pushed into the system, but we're doing this based on what others have done or said - no first hand experience yet. We'll certainly share the results and outcomes. Thanks for watching and for the support!

[@newenglandhomesteaders8341]

Nice work! Great progress...love to see everyone involved! I'm working on my 10x20 EMT frame greenhouse and hope to have it finished in the next month...weather has not been cooperating! Excited to see this system come to life for you!

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Ha! Talk about weather not cooperating! Right there with you. Yesterday was a race against time (and incoming rain), and to our boys' great credit they never complained once about being out there all day, no lunch, working hard in the cold and rain. We're hoping to get it all completed ASAP and actually use it before summer gets here. Best wishes on your greenhouse!

[@johnbolongo9978]

I would have thought with perforated pipe it would need at least a cover of clear stone with a fabric over it to allow it to work. Clay turns perforated pipe into unperforated. Interesting stuff. Wonder if this system worked or what changes he would make to the design.

[@9111logic]

🙏Thanks for sharing. Just one question, no geotextile fabric to stop soil/bugs from coming in contact with the air?

[@GeoffreyFlores]

LOL. 4:51 starts the silhouette making an appearance on the dirt mound

[@firesnake6556]

Best Part!

[@teufelshunde730]

Just wondering if there is a better media to encase the pipes with to ensure more consistent retention and distribution of the controlled air temp, i.e P rock, 3/4 stone etc., I would think that would also be better for the drainage of condensation as there is very little if ant relief in the surrounding clay to accomedate (spl?) for drainage. Just a few observations. I am sure you are better informed than I am and you have done your home work, I am just looking at from the standpoint of a drain layer and having dealt with the many problems dealing with clay. I was also wondering about the route you took with the layout of the pipes as others mentioned, why not one continuous run. Also agree with the compaction every foot or so on the back fill, seen too many sidewalks on new homes cracking and sinking from rushing to back fill to only have everything settle and the problems eresulting. All in all, I wish you luck, just some of my observations, and yes, I have been known to over think things. LOL Definitely a great series and look forward to each episode.

[@DennisTotman]

The header system you're using appears far less efficient than had you run a continuous serpentine hose back and forth to maximize underground air time.

[@xpeeriments6452]

Things as they appear and things as they are, are sometimes two different things

[@therevelation19]

@Dennis Totmann, agree completely!

[@edwardj456]

I think it depends. Maybe the goal is lower velocity through the underground pipe to allow more heat exchange to occur.

[@JohnGuest45]

@@edwardj456 The goal is the exact opposite ;)

[@sammaine9966]

you are correct - don't listen to the stoners. Have done these projects before - this will work ok with pipes spread out. You are working with heated mass, which is a slow exchange. All the effort to dig a damn hole, you better make use of it. Velocity? Give me a break.

[@bartbley1269]

might be an idea to have a sump at one end in case your system completely fills with water if your water table goes up in the rainy season . hope things work out great

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Thanks - yes we're planning to at least be prepared to put hoses down into the outlets and pump water out if necessary.

[@algreen266]

What is the reason you are putting foam polystyrene sheets around the walls of the soil ?And the black connecting perforated pipes are not water locked so water can easily penetrate them, Did you make this calculation? Thanks

[@geoffwaterman6560]

Suggestions in the capacity of a professional plumber . Use pipe with a geo fabric covering to stop the silty clay from entering the pipe. If you don't have this in the USA you should still be able to buy I think geofab cut into strips and just wrap around the pipe. If you want excellent all round penetration of the air into the clay I would use just a thin layer 3/4" of 1/4 pea gravel around your pipe. I think this would be much more efficient. The site you have is very flat and although you are dealing with clay there's a possibility that rainfall off your greenhouse could penetrate the ground and end up filling your pipes with water and possibly ceiling the holes with fine clay. I would put a slight fall on your pipe work and at the lower end bring a Bend riser up that you could put a vacuum pipe to suck the water out, All the best Just in case. I'm no scientist but I would locate my top layer of pipes about 12 inches from the surface as the heat doesn't have to penetrate so far to reach the pipes. I'm certainly no expert just a keen gardener but I hope my comments may give you some considerations.

[@kurtc6372]

Eventually the holes in the pipe will get plugged up with the Clay. I would have put a small amount of gravel around the holes of the pipe to keep it from getting plugged up. Of course it would take quite a few years but it’s no different then a septic leach field

[@Anthony_DP]

6:16 behind the dirt mound hahahaha

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Glad another person saw that!

[@PatrickWagz]

4:48 as well haha

[@daveharr3892]

I see aliens. LOL

[@123Goldhunter11]

A white foot???

[@halheywood3910]

What the heck. .

[@ChrisLMartin]

Enjoyed all the build even seeing the failures. I've been in the planning stage for a while. I'd like to know where you found your inflatable plastic from. and how's it been working. Thanks for sharing.

[@archerdeangelo1187]

The lay out of the underground air flow to assist in the temp is a bit like a septic drain field. The greater the coverage the greater the efficiency. The application of the insulation is a good idea till the ability for the system to properly operate. A secondary system attached and controlled with baffles to assist when the limits become over limited. AKA A second GEO system that is not insulated being connected and regulated... Make since I hope. just my thoughts.

[@philippotgieter1526]

We stay in southern spain, whwre it can get to 40 degrees C(104 fahrentheit) And coldest in winter will only be -2 in early mornings (28 fahrentheit) So we sont need to keep thw heat in but ratjer get it out as moat of the year is warmer not colder, So i wo t be putting foam around the hole, simoly to just get rid of the heat more, as that is the biggest problem for us.

[@emameyer]

why didn't you go down to 3mt/9ft? at that depth the temperature should be stable all year round at 11/12 degrees Celsius / 55 degrees Farenheit

[@xpeeriments6452]

why didn't you?

[@TheDomi44]

with a geothermal Greenhouse is there any benefit in insulating horizonally above the heating tubes?

[@leobaltz2057]

I sure hope this is a HUGE success for you guys!! Good Job! I love seeing the whole family working together!

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Thank you! It is fun having everyone out working on projects together. God bless!

[@bradmesserle999]

You should have let the rain hit the first tier do you get really good soil compaction :) then after the rain clears then do the second tier..

[@freeheeler09]

“Is it wrong? Could be. Will it be a disaster? Might be.” Enjoyed the courage and honesty! I think it will work well. Thanks for documenting the system so we all can learn from your efforts!

[@billpetersen298]

How cold are your winters? Do you expect enough heat gain in winter, to keep growing? Or does this just lengthen the growing season.

[@m.s683]

Cheers, great share pre installing a GAHT system on my side. Would you recommend any tweaking to your system, except altering the 4” with 6” inlet? I'm would you stuck to clay or use gravel or base-coarse? Is it comfortable to be inside in summer? We have hot summers in the Mediterranean climate and i’m interested to spend time in the greenhouse all year around. To grow and just stay there. It's gone be double glaze. Many thanks in advance. All the best

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Without a system to compare to personally, it would be hard to know about tweaks. The biggest improvement would simply be moving MORE air. Money was a limiting constraint for us. If it wasn't, we would have used much larger pipes and fans. As a result, it is NOT comfortable inside in the summer. The system simply can't move enough air and the solar gain is too much. Hope this helps.

[@MrAircraftGuy]

Well, can you do a follow up video please? I think most of us theatre thinking about building something like this would like some verification of how well it works, so we can validate the expense with our wives!! Well done by the way!

[@jenniferg6818]

I agree.

[@joeyy323]

I'd be worried about how biodegradable that foam is. How easy is this to compromise with mold and bacteria? How much can you do to stave it off?

[@gfl1957]

Simple physics, gravel has far more mass than dirt, therefore will hold far more stored energy.

[@dominickgarey7657]

Water saturated soil, has almost the exact same volume to weight ratio as gravel. About 40 cubic feet per ton

[@NwoDispatcher]

How about clay? Gravel has pockets of air, which means less thermal transfer

[@JohnGuest45]

@@NwoDispatcher Technically, the air pockets will increase the modes of heat transfer. The air gaps will reduce the total amount of mass.

[@Utilityauditservice]

at 5:43 a ghost pops up behind the dirt berm

[@Sodistaja]

and 4:48 :D

[@prtcgv5105]

🤣🤣🤣

[@LizfollowsHIM]

Ha! What was that?

[@grandmastermicochero]

WONT THE pipes fill up with ground water after heavy rains and snow melts in the spring??

[@mc-tu1sv]

Most geothermal projects includ pumps for condensation build up

[@bakit5794]

can worm not eat through the isolation foam?

[@mikaylaboo1]

LOL, you have a "Whack-a-mole" on the dirt pile behind you.

[@snozzberrybush]

5:42

[@johnlysic6727]

I really like this but am afraid that the air flows to the “path of least resistance” - the tubing should be one long path, forcing the air to flow all the way back and forth across the 6 lengths

[@StIsidoresFarm]

As we've posted, we tested airflow out of each length and it was equal. Air is like water. If you were put it into tubing with six outlets (even as they were increasingly far away) the water would find equilibrium, not the path of least resistance. It would come out all six tubes equally. As does the air. The upside to one long pipe is perhaps greater cooling/warming of the air due to time spent in the tubes.

[@kjnoah]

I personally would have laid gravel for air flow and then buried it all in clay.

[@moshkteer]

That kid that keeps popping up in the background is freaking me out.

[@Cool_boy258]

There's a term in the military for that. It's called goose necking, or something like that. I noticed it too

[@johnwyman6331]

So why isn't there any insulation on the bottom?

[@thombaz]

I found you Waldo!! 5:44

[@paulwyleciol3459]

I could not follow any word spoken since the little clown appeared at 04:50 !!! Somebody told me there was some research done by Messerschmitt/Mercedes: you could never ever fill in energy if the bottom is open - the good thing is: It also works the way round: you never can cool it down bei accident, so you have some 10°C all over the winter ... That reminds me at my hypocaustic attempts to heat my house with warm air which did not work really good until I changed to water after realizing that air is the perfect ISOLATOR and water (and hydrogen) can store more warmth inside than any other material. PLUS radiant heat with warm walls and cold air is much cosier, than warm air and cold walls. Maybe the situation is completely different with this kind of clay??? Thanks for uploading - and please keep us on track!

[@jimmiller6704]

Seems like those pipes would fill with soil given a couple years.

[@gfl1957]

Yep.

[@Enigmatic_Lurker]

Was just looking into greenhouse options for this year, and saw your video in my search results. Haven't seen a fellow FFA member online before! 🏕

[@organiccleanfoodconnection]

How is the greenhouse working out since winter? I’m about to bury my tubes. putting the clay dirt over the tubes still the best no covering no rocks? Thank you

[@MartyRothbard]

The problem with your design, is that air flow is restricted by the design of the headers. You have six four inch tubes being fed by one four inch tube, so the air velocity in the header will be six times the average in the long tubes, yielding turbulent flow, and a large pressure drop. The cross sectional area of the headers should be about the same as the total cross sectional area of the six tubes. A quick calculation yields a diameter of 9.79" diameter, so say 10". Using this diameter for the headers on both ends, you can connect a radial fan such as used in a domestic HVAC installation, and move a reasonable amount of air through the network. Trying to do that through one 4" tube gives too much pressure drop. If a plastic pipe, and fittings of this diameter is too expensive, I would make a header of similar cross sectional area using 16"x12"x8" concrete block, 16"x8"x4" solid block, and mortar. I would dry stack the block, using the mortar to connect the 4" tube to openings in the concrete block header. I would make the vertical parts of what ever size concrete block that is convenient below grade, with galvanized steel above grade. I would also place the intake for the fan near the top of the greenhouse so as to ingest the hottest air. I would also preheat the battery during the summer by thermostatically controlling the fan to run whenever the temperature inside the greenhouse exceeded 90 degrees or so.

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Thanks for the thoughtful comment. Interesting idea about the bock header - have to keep that in mind if we do this on our larger greenhouse. If you haven't seen the rest of the series, we changed the size of the pipes on the ends to six inch pipes and do have the intakes in the ridge. Again, thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@antonioteixeira1528]

Good luck

[@terryfrederickson2774]

air will not flow as others have said brcause of joints, needs to be one continus tube snaked on bottom, one way in one way out. what you just created is dead zones

[@rchel72]

Terry Frederickson hi I will be building a greenhouse this spring Can you explain what you said about the dead zone if you put elbows on the piping Thabks

[@eieio-mn9pm]

Oh oh

[@daleolson3506]

Did I miss it where is the drain?

[@ronaldshepard4625]

You shouldn't have joined the ends of the black pipe. Air will take the path of least resistance you will have most of the air flow through the shortest one and almost nothing through the longest one.

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Actually, if you watch the "Mistake" video we uploaded after this one, you'll see we dug up the ends and replaced the manifolds. When we did that we tested all of the pipes to see if there was a difference in the volume of air coming out of each one, and there was no difference. Seems the air actually wants to reach equilibrium going through the pipes - not simply take the shortest route. Also, because the intake and exhaust are located exactly opposite each other, the distance between points is exactly the same on each pipe going under the ground. There is not shorter path.

[@LSZ71]

The point of puting the intake opposite the exaust is that so the distance the air travels is the same no matter what path it were take. There is no shortest path or longest path.

[@Cool_boy258]

I thought an earth battery was collecting energy from the earth.

[@oaomcg]

it's storing energy in the earth and collecting it later.

[@deemanrt]

I'm confused, is the system cooling only or cooling and heating depending on the weather?

[@AlecMuller]

It moves heat from where it's warmer to where it's cooler, which helps with daytime cooling *and* nighttime heating. Think of the ground as a giant thermal mass that reduces temperature swings for the plants.

[@deemanrt]

@@AlecMuller thank you very much

[@kalimeraHellas]

Why you don't have insulation on the floor under the pipes? I think heat escapes not only to the side but underneath because soil at that depth are much colder than the soil above some feet.

[@luke0b708]

Did it work well or what?

[@PJRiter1]

Any problem with Radon gas?

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Not in our area.

[@user-co4si3cb8h]

Paul Rite casper

[@mrpush2532]

Hi...ok so if no insulation on the bottom its like a cooler with no bottom....that will let the heat go down into the earth which is not desired. Im not picking...just saying for others who may do same. Coolers w no bottoms dont work so well.

[@JohnGuest45]

This cooler is surrounded by earth so the major heatloss will occur near the top. Consider air above the mass at -20F and ground below the mass at 50F. You can insulate the base tf you want but it will fix the total amount of mass in stone.

[@mrpush2532]

@@JohnGuest45 Hi, yes heat flows from warm to cool at an increased rate with temp differential. To be most efficient, and to keep as much heat as you can just below ground, you dont want to expend energy to put heat there and then have it leaving the bottom at any rate, even 5 to 10%. Its like leaving a window open in your house during the winter even if in just one room. It makes a difference. You only want the heat your paying for by fan to flow one direction, upwards. Fun project.

[@JohnGuest45]

@@mrpush2532 You want the heat to be distributed evenly in the mass.Heat moving downwards increases the temperature which in turn slows the transfer of heat downwards. I have temp sensors installed below the system and also outside at the same depth, the ground below the system is always warmer than the ground outside at that depth. If you track the ground temperature under a system over a long period of time you`ll notice the average ground temperure below increases over several seasons and then it levels out, This is reflected by smaller swings in temp at depth compared to the original start point and an increase in the average ground temp at depth also compared to the original start point. I dont know if this is specific to the local climate, soil type or installation, greenhouse etc, a lot of folks bury tubes but forget to put any temp sensors in the ground so they dont know what is happening and cant contribute .They simply say, it works! The COP of these systems in cooling mode (storing heat) can be 30 or more so you get a good return on the cost of running the fan.

[@clintonlau5826]

WHAT THE HELL IS THAT POPING UP OVER YOUR LEFT SHOULDER ON THE DIRT MOUND ON THE TREE LINE AT 4:48 - 4:51 TIME ? LOOK SOME ONE/THING , EVEN THE DOG LOOKS AT IT.

[@MCC9584]

I like what you said from the start do it right the first time..The pipe your using isn't a very good product...Your better off in the long run to buy the heavier structured drain pipe that is white sdr35 or better than that pipe that will not sustain it's integrity over the long run..Everytime I've dug that black flimsy drain pipe up it's squshed not working...Also it's a little more expensive but you could just get regular water or sewer pipe and drill the holes for venting your self...You could also have a drainage collection system sitting on the bottom as well to recollect the water your using to irrigate the plants in your green house...This excavation is the exact way to make a sand filter where you collect the water shoot to a diverter box then down to a tank for clorination..Simple pump in that tank and you could reuse the water to continue the irrigation of your green house..Kill two birds with the same stone.. Also using that corrugated pipe requires a rock ballast around it to help maintain it's structural integrity...Again Your quite deep with the thermal lines..+/- 4'.. Having a higher line at 2' also will probably dry out the soil requiring more irrigation of your plants inside the green house..Still think you will end up with ponded water in your lower pipes simply because the irrigation for plants..Clay soils do not allow penatration of water that's why it's used for ponds, landfill capping etc...Jar test of lower portion of excavation to see settlement of soil would of been a good check..It's to late now...The green house is in use so that in itself is a good test..Over all this is a great idea you undertook

[@willylandin9450]

sorry, I have a question: the corrugated plastic pipes used, should be perforated (like drainage pipes) or not ? Thanks if everybody knows the answer!

[@Willow_and_Sage]

Wouldn't you want the heat to bleed out? For example; It's summer and you are pulling the cool air out and packing it with hot air. Now the cold air supply stops because the ground is warming. As all things in nature try to balance, the ground around it [if not using foam] would pull the heat out allowing the dirt to remain cool. But with foam it works like a cooler. The hot air does not leach out and instead maintains the temperature, allowing for no more cool air to be pulled from the ground. I feel like I am missing something.

[@joansmith3492]

Thank you for sharing this. I'm wondering why you decided not to use french drain filter fabric sock on your pipes? I'm planning on building a much smaller cattle panel greenhouse (12.5 ft x 7 ft) with a climate battery this summer/fall. My plan is to only go down 2 ft, insulate the perimeter, and lay water filled 16 oz plastic coke bottles along the drains to add more "heat/cold storage". I'm not sure this will work. But it costs me nothing since I have been saving the used bottles. There are so many variations and divergent opinions about this. I look forward to seeing how this works out for you.

[@StIsidoresFarm]

You're welcome. As to the drain sock, since water won't be flowing into the pipes (along with silt) as it would in a french drain, we just didn't see it a necessary expense. The clay back fill is not that small and basically compresses back to a hard packed mass. It really shouldn't be an issue clogging the pipes. Your idea with two liter bottles can't hurt. Might want to consider doing something like spray painting them black. And yes, there are a LOT of opinions about all of this. I tend to go with Jason Smith over at Coghill Farm, just try things and "grind it out" as he says. Experiment and have fun. If it doesn't work, try something else.

[@stout8529]

I have a question. If you already dig that far as you did, why didn’t you just leave the ground floor on that height? Whatever temperature you are getting from those pipes would be your floor temperature. And perhaps dig just those pipes a bit further down to get few more degrees from them. If at all. No?

[@janicetroska5216]

Sooo, if I want to have my greenhouse cooled instead of heated (I live in zone 10a/b), then I would not use foam board? Gonna diy in backyard…

[@brucelipnickas3968]

I built mine with sleeves over the perforated tubing to prevent dirt filling the tubes

[@StIsidoresFarm]

Yes, we're hoping we don't regret not doing that, but since water won't be routinely flowing into them, maybe we'll be ok.

[@johnwarfield7742]

I was just going to ask about geo fabric sleeves .....

[@alexriddles492]

No personal experience with thermal effect of this but, I have used weed mat to protect drain tiles used in landscaping applications.

[@artstrology]

I was thinking strategically drilling drain holes in the bottom of non-perf pipe to allow drainage but eliminate the need for filter sock.

[@marcoquezada6731]

We use geo fabric on all of our drain pipes and drain rock. It work great seperating water from soil.

[@russellsickles5196]

Enter and build up if no drain or sump

[@markw3598]

The air, like water, will find the shortest easiest path, and the rest of the pipes will not circulate.

[@StIsidoresFarm]

If you watch one of the next videos in the series, we replaced the manifold or trunk pipes with six inch pipes. While we had the the main tube off, and the ends of the six pipes were exposed, we ran air through the system. An equal amount of air was coming out of each of the six pipes. Seems the air wants to reach equilibrium as would water.

[@AliMohamadChannel]

if you put the inletthe

[@hookabunny5030]

Amazing... But shouldn't be posting stuff like this for the Gov to get there hand in your pocket...keep up the good work stay smart and safe

[@T84948]

Thank you! Im wondering if its possible to cool a greenhouse from 40 Celsius to 20 Celsius using your method?

[@galepadgett]

I am trying to construct a very similar geothermal greenhouse in Herriman utah. However Herriman city wants a stamped engineered plan. Do you have an engineer who provided your plan?

[@James-st9uu]

Would there be benefit to having an insulation layer beneath the pipes?

[@hypercube33]

Why are you insulating the ground which should be a steady temperature all year below the frost line?

[@johnsilvernale6472]

Forget where their location is.. My area Friday will go down 6 feet or so, depending on type of winter we have. Isolating the battery will prevent leaching of heat

[@johnsilvernale6472]

Frost not Friday

[@timb7814]

Bingo! You're intuition is correct. Insulating around the pit is 100% incorrect.

[@BLACKHAT-l9v]

I would think you'd want to cover these tubes with sand and gravel gravel on the edge sand in the middle it holds more thermal mass and then dirt on top of the sand so it'd be like a heating pad throwing dirt on top of it I don't know if dirt would hold this thermal mass as well as sand will actually soak in heat

[@chriszbodula1894]

Their seems to be allot of missing information like what climate zone they are in. Then it’s not clear if the objective is being able to create heat for winter growing or cooling for hot summer months or both. How can people make positive comments with all the missing information

[@fiskfarm]

Apparently he missed all the videos that used a plastic 55g drum as the plenum for all the pipes and encloses the fan. Oops. This guy apparently disappeared 2 years ago. I don't upload many vids anymore but at least I answer comments on my channel👍😎👍

[@StIsidoresFarm]

We answer.

[@niceslug]

did u know where ur water table is, I get concerned that the pipes will fill with water, perhaps this could happen periodically and it was just drain ?

[@StIsidoresFarm]

In the nearest well, the water table is 27' down. Don't think that will ever be an issue. We did have to do grading around the greenhouse to get the water away when it rained. The first few rains, the greenhouse flooded and water DID go down into the pipes. Since grading away from the greenhouse we've had zero issues. If anything, the problem, we are having now is maintain humidity in the greenhouse so the system will work (needs moisture for evaporative cooling).

[@sikosis999]

great stuff, only OCD type gripe is the handling of your bucket :) putting unnecessary stress on your hydrolic system! beyond that looks good and right by everything i've ever done or read keep it up we need more people to relearn the skills of living!

[@StIsidoresFarm]

😬 guilty as charged. I am to rough on it. But that little tractor got the job done!!

[@gtvvds]

Why it is not possible to do the voice above video? Why it is not possible to talk while we are watching a video? Why should we watch the talking face?

[@kcubs222]

Why four feet, most areas are only thermally consistent at 8 to 10 feet below the surface. The insulation explanation is strange because you shouldn’t want a thermos to heat up and stay that way, isn’t the whole idea is to weep hot and cool air out of the pipes, depending on the season?

[@mellooks]

How did this work for you? Maybe an update video?

[@BigBirdy100]

Hmm, the dirt walls are already insulation and the purpose of the below grade greenhouse is to utilize those walls and their thermal mass to cool and heat with. Putting insulation over them restricts their intended purpose. You need a material that conducts/transmits the earth temperature, like a poured concrete wall.

[@makmak151515]

Won’t with this system the air will take the path of least resistance. Meaning the air is going to go mostly thru one pipe to the exhaust. Luca

[@estes1957]

In my area we have a high water table so I had to install a sump pump as the ground pipes filled with water!

[@freeheeler09]

We have 80 or so days above 100 in summer and the same number of frosty nights. I’m picturing something similar to your system, but putting the floor of the greenhouse 3’ underground for added insulation. Stack 4’ of cinder blocks as lower walls, then timber frame roof. It would be on a slope, so we can easily drain ground water.

[@Observer9491]

Does anyone who knows about GAHT systems also know about bacteria, mold, viruses and parasites that can live in your GAHT pipes. Has anyone any thoughts?

[@JohnGuest45]

I tested this using special filters in the airflow path that were sent off to a lab for analysis. Nothing of concern, just the normal flora and fauna you`d expect in a greenhouse environment.

[@scottsiple4151]

Hello and thank you for your videos and updates to your in ground greenhouse. I am in the process of putting one in myself in Kansas. My greenhouse is 20 x 40, 8’ south wall, 12’ north wall. I will be installing a climate battery and was wondering where and what type/brand, etc. of in-line fans you used. Thank you and God bless you in your endeavors!

[@grabitz]

At 4:48 to 4:52 of the video right side on top of the dirt pile, what is that popping up and falling down an Alien?

[@royormonde3682]

These are called GAHT systems, Ground to Air Heat Transfer. One thing I might add is that they have a high temp. and low temp. limit switches, that way your not using energy moving air when the temp. is just right in the green house....usually 50 F at the low and 75 F for the high....you save a bit on electricity, not as noisy all the time, blowers last longer and I'd like to add if your going to try this system out, go for it, they work great. Try and use 6 inch for your manifolds and solid 6 inch for the risers with 4 inch weeping pipe as shown here. Good job here and certainly worth it but could be improved on.

[@delareypretorius4258]

I think you should’ve covered the perforated pipe with cloth just a idea

[@jackie021x]

Are these earth pipes an ideal place for Black Mold to thrive?

[@StIsidoresFarm]

We don't think so. Too much air movement.

[@BWWGL9]

What was your Temperature reading, coming up from the tubing in the ground? We use to SNAKE our Hose/Tubing depending on what we were building, and use Hot Water to heat.. as in radiant from the floor up, very Stable once it comes to desired temp. Same HOT water ran through the Hot Water heater for the House, being a secondary benefit (free house water for house use). We burn USED Engine Oil & Vegetable Oil.... all FREE. One heat I built early goes up to 1000 deg.F. Hot water short and sweet.!

[@michaeltaylor7025]

90 degree turn saves mechanical energy cost increases , “T”s are expensive.

[@markschuette3770]

its not passive if you have motorized fans. hope you got the orientation and glass in the right spots!

[@williechen6445]

Shouldn't be serial lining (S shape) instead of parallel lining ? Cuz the air will travel in shortest distance

[@StIsidoresFarm]

If you think about the heating and air systems in your house or your car, they operate with main trunks and then branches going to the registers or vents. Air wants to reach equilibrium in terms of pressure, especially in our case where all of the pipes connect back to one exhaust pipe. In fact, we checked this (but didn't get video) by running the system with open ends on all six pipes. The air coming out of each was the same. Hope this helps.

[@williechen6445]

Cool ...

[@441rider]

Great vid, I use tubs on a way small scale to run hot air on way down and it transfers to water. Your dog thought he liked digging,

[@YoderJosh]

I am concerned about groundwater in those pipes. I am not an expert and not trying to point flaws in your work. I would love an update. We use buried pipe like that as a mock french drain to spread groundwater away from wet spots and move around the property. Wouldn't mold become an issue? The fans will dry it some, but wouldn't there be daily condensation? Thank you for running this experiment, how did it turn out?

[@MyLevelheaded]

Next time you do a green house earth battery It might be wiser to run all 4 inch pipes to the corners and 6 Inches above finished grade! Do just one fan! Then build a plywood manifold at the top to encapsulate all the pipes...out the top of the plywood box run your larger sized solid pvc pipe to the ridge of the green house so all pipes draw evenly fully using and charging the earth battery...air like water will seek the path of least resistance, so by having the manifold below the earth your cheating the effect by drawing a majority of air through the closest runs...

[@EtatsLimite]

4:49 Hi !

[@StIsidoresFarm]

😂