Stock Tank Patio Pond Build

[@CommonManBBQ]

Let me share my experience so far. So we got a 8’ diameter stock tank that is 2’ deep from tractor supply. And that soft gray “putty” type material was on it as well. LOTS of scraping, tons of sanding with 60 grit with palm sander and angle grinder, then on to a 45% vinegar wash down, then cleaned again with regular water, then let dry and we used 8 total cans of the sem self etching primer. We might could’ve used 9 or 10 but that’s all we ordered so we went with it. It was covered but not very thick. Oh well. So a few days later we applied the pond shield. I did not re sand after primer had dried, I hope I don’t end up regretting that decision. Anyway we mixed up 4 cups with 2 cups hardener for our first attempt. Didn’t really seem to spread very well with brush or roller. Definitely didn’t look like the even coat you got in your video. Then I broke out the squeegee. That worked awesome, except anytime you stopped moving you’d leave a built up line. So then I thought maybe I can smooth out that line with the roller. Big mistake. Maybe the epoxy had already partially set, but it started ripping the cloth nap out of my roller and depositing “hairs” into my coating. I did take care as to not use a cheap sponge roller like you shared in your instructions. All I can say is do not try to use a roller once this stuff starts to dry. It’ll rip any roller apart, even decent fairly expensive cloth nap rollers. The squeegee works great especially for the bottom of the tank. I ended up with two coats on the bottom and one thin coat on the walls before dark. I covered it to keep bugs out and will uncover it in the morning after the dew is gone. Gonna try to put another coat on the sides but I think I’d rather get kicked in the teeth than to sand anymore. This project is a lot to take on and I would work with pond shield on something a lot smaller such as a smaller tank like he’s doing before I tried a pool. Just my humble advice. Im probably gonna end up using the whole 1.5 gallon kit on this tank. Not sure if that’s correct coverage or way too much or way too little, but im gonna use it all. Might as well. I just hope tomorrows coat sticks without sanding. If it doesn’t, im prepared to call it a loss and throw my hands up. Im soooo tired. I think it’s a great product as long as you know what you are doing, but beware it’s nothing like painting. It’s definitely a whole different ball game. And don’t think you’re gonna use a brush or roller the next day or even a hour later. It’ll be solid as a rock. Have new brushes and roller replacements ready. Also don’t let the epoxy dry on the roller and then think you’ll change out the roller head later cause you won’t without trying to cut it off the roller head. You ain’t pulling it off if it’s dry, trust me😂 anyway just thought I’d share my experience/nightmare. Also if you do take on a pool, have a partner help so you can cover the tank faster before it starts to set up. Good luck!

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

That's some great straight forward experience information there! Thanks for sharing that. First let me start by saying YES YOU HAVE TO SAND TOMORROW. I know it is not what you want to hear, but I always tell everyone what they have to hear, not what they want to hear. All you need to do is knock the shine off real quick.. That's all. Now back to my commenting on your information. I have heard both sides of how easy or difficult it is to apply the coating. For some people it is extremely easy. For others, it can be difficult. EVERYTHING plays a part in that though. How much you mix at a time, outside temperature, humidity, tools you chose, your skill set and so on. Any one of those things can make the process difficult, just as a simple tool change, for example, can make the process easier. It all sounds like you followed the rules so far, so please do not skip sanding on this next phase. Please let us all know how it turns out. You're doing a great job!

[@CommonManBBQ]

@@PondArmorEpoxy I was afraid you’d say that. I’m tempted to throw my sanders away when I get done with this project😂 but thank you for the reply and I will sand it before my next application. Even though I don’t want to. There definitely are a lot of variables that can effect the outcome of this project. I feel like I’ve done most of it right, so we will see.

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

@@CommonManBBQ Look, the coating you just applied is still really new and most likely you'd be able to hand sand it real quick in order to scuff it up. It should not take much at this point. Again, just knock the shine off. If you use a sander, move it quickly and do not apply much pressure.

[@pammiller1528]

@@CommonManBBQI am in the same situation currently as you were a few months ago. So DONE with sanding. Can I ask are you satisfied with the end result? And how much product did you use for your pool? I am afraid I do t have enough if you used the whole 1.5 gallons for your 8’ pool. Thank you for your reply.

[@CommonManBBQ]

@@pammiller1528 honestly if I had it to do over I would’ve never done it. I did use all the product I had. It will chip if it takes a hard hit from anything. If you don’t have kids and don’t plan on having any pets in it you might be ok. My kids have chipped it in a couple places. The outcome definitely was not worth the overall blood sweat and tears of getting it done. In my honest opinion pond shield would be great for a smaller type aquarium project or “mini stock tank porch pond” but I would never do a 8’ or bigger stock tank again. If I were to tackle it again I would get a new stock tank, use it until it starts to rust, then have the rust sandblasted off instead of hand sanding, then find some kind of liner that could be sprayed in instead of rolled or brushed. Or maybe even go with a vinyl or plastic liner. I wouldn’t do pond shield again. Just my honest opinion.

[@revbradl]

I have an 8' x 3' round stock tank. I have painted it with "TuffCoat" UT-95 metal primer. Can I put pond shield directly on top of it? Also, how much pond shield will I need?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

You'd need three 1.5 quart kits. As far as the primer goes, I cannot say. I have no experience with that primer.

[@revbradl]

@@PondArmorEpoxy thank you for your reply

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

@@revbradl You're welcome

[@geometric5103]

Nice job; a bit of work but the end result looks great. I've used Pond Armor to build a plywood aquarium and it worked well and I've wondered about using it on a galvanized stock tank so this video answered my questions.

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Yep, absolutely a fair amount of work, but the results are awesome. If you do one, let us know if you have questions. We will be glad to help!

[@sronnau99]

Thank you so much for the extra instructions and specifying that I need the 60 grit flap disc and the self etching primer!

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

You're welcome!

[@grisols]

Hadn’t even thought about removing the adhesive. Thanks for the tips!

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Happy to help!

[@mfeltster]

What grit sand paper of sem primer?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Watch the video, we cover those questions.

[@mfeltster]

@@PondArmorEpoxyexcuse me! I did that is why I asked the question. At 8:45 in video he states they gave it a quick sand to scuff it up but there is no mention of what grit.

[@user-cn3cn3yn2g]

Can y'all make a 2x2x5 stock tank bathtub video please

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

If we get a chance to we might.

[@bfdavdb]

How long should you let it dry and cure before you can fill it with water?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Normally 24 hours, but you HAVE to run your hand on it to make sure it feels like smooth, DRY plastic. If it does not, it is not ready.

[@GuillermoCruz-qh3qb]

What specific roller is being used? What is recommended?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

It's just a short nap cloth roller. Personally I prefer a bondo squeegee and a $3-$4 polyester paint brush. I cut 1/3 of the bristle length off of the brush to mildly stiffen it. I mix my materials, and dump them into the tank. I use the bondo spreader to move it everywhere it needs to be and then finish with that brush. Simple.

[@joshluvsla]

Thank you for the tutorial!

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Glad it was helpful!

[@allinkoi]

Glad to see the new content. I would like to see Stainless steel to concreate with fiberglass and PondArmor in a pond or example of.

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

We'll see if we can work something like that in. Stay tuned!

[@yorkshirekoi2246]

a nice project would be a nice long wood planter to be used as a pond filter

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

That's a good idea. Maybe we'll see if we can fit one in.

[@yorkshirekoi2246]

@@PondArmorEpoxy kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmjEZ3eMn7NjZ9Usi=y2Vocs8r4eg28iQp

[@suvonhernandez843]

All good to use a 60 grit sanding sponge?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Yes as long as it creates some tooth on the surface.

[@sronnau99]

Also I was helpful to hear that I need to wait one hour between coats.

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

It's usually about an hour. That's when I start checking. If anything comes off on your hand when you check just let it wait another 30 minutes and check again. Tacky is OK, wet is not. Wet is too soon to coat over.

[@mikekenerley2316]

What about using the Pond Shield primer you sell instead of the primer in the video?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

That primer is meant for pitted concrete. SEM self-etching primer is meant for metals.

[@jamesgrunst1866]

Would using a hard sealer such as JB water weld to the seams (after removing silicone and galvanization) work? Or would silicone caulk after applying pond shield still be best practice. I will be converting a large stock tank into a cold plunge, thanks!

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Well that really works well on these chest freezers because the expanse on the seams in those is so short. I would be a little leery about how long the seams are on these larger tanks. Remember, the more the steel moves, the more the seams are pulled and misshapen. I do not know for sure if JB Waster Weld would hold up to the punishment there. You're essentially asking it to work like a full fledged Mig of Tig weld, which I do not think it can do as well.

[@rachaelevans6267]

Thank you for the video, I'm looking forward to getting started on my project. I see that you use 60 grit in the beginning; do you use a different grade of sandpaper for scuffing up after coat #1? Thanks!

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Always 60 grit between coats. More tooth is better. Also the best time to recoat is usually about 1 to 1.5 hours after the initial coat. No sanding required then.

[@enlighten1self]

@@PondArmorEpoxySo are we sanding between coats or not? only sanding between coats of primer and not armor?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

@@enlighten1self That information can be found on the website as well as in the instructions. But in a nutshell, you sand between coats of Pond Shield after 10 hours. There is no sanding between Pond Shield primer and Pond Shield because the primer cures to a tacky state on purpose.

[@brigidmanko3932]

Thank you for this video! I want to try this and saw the delta blue but was not sure how the color would turn out.

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

You’re welcome 😊

[@jesspayne1959]

Is the can of clear supposed to be half full like that?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

It's a 2:1 mix. Part A (the clear or color can) is full. The Part B (clear with a slight yellow hue) is half full.

[@johnpittello3024]

what is the coverage to know how much Pond Shield to purchase? I will be doing the stock tank pool.

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

It all depends on the size of the stock tank. Give me a call and tell me what the measurements are and I will calculate it for you. 800-716-1545

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

I must apologize for some of the later responses we made here. We try and get back to all comments as quickly as possible. Unfortunately, the notification system for comments was not getting back to us and with all that happens during a water feature season, we simply missed some. We hope you were able to reach us via phone to assist at that time.

[@dant9138]

With galvanneal would you skip the vinegar step?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Again, late reply on my end. KZbin notification system is terrible. I am sorry but I have never heard of anyone coating galvanneal with our coating. There are a lot of ways to prepare zinc rich surfaces, but I have never done any of them myself so I cannot say for sure.

[@stephendumaine1575]

Good stuff! But I think most of youtube wants to see YOU put the skirt on at the end! 🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Yeah, we made that joke here too LOL.

[@stephendumaine1575]

@@PondArmorEpoxy I knew i liked you guys. We used pond armor to A: coat our deteriorating fountain and B: paint the ceiling in a very oddly shaped shower!

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

@@stephendumaine1575 Yep, both of those are perfect uses!

[@MrOliverAC]

Thanks for the video. What happens if the pond shield epoxy is placed over the polyurethane sealant included in the stock tanks? Does it re-emulsify the sealant?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

No. The general rule of thumb is the stacking order for materials is softer materials on top of harder materials. Those caulks or seam seals are generally very soft and you will want to minimize it some so it feels stiffer. Once the Pond Shield has been applied, you can run a new bead of silicone or SikaFlex 1A over the top of the Pond Shield onto that seam.

[@MrOliverAC]

@@PondArmorEpoxy thank you for the explanation!

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

You're welcome!

[@TheMizzat]

I didn't prime and the only thing it DID stay stuck to is the sealant. Going to try again, this time with primer.

[@AdamStrock]

Rust-Oleum's "self etching primer" doesn't work well with Pond Armor? I bought a box of it a year ago when I bought everything for this project. Should I get the primer you mentioned instead?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Yes, SEM works best. Rustoleum primer is great primer, but it simply does not like some of the components that we use in our coating.

[@pammiller1528]

I have a 8’ diameter stock tank pool. Over three years it has rusted and I would like to try this product to save my pool. I have been sanding for days (ugh). I am not able to remove ALL of the rust. Can I apply the primer and then epoxy without that rust coming back to haunt me?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Thew reality is that any corrosion you leave behind will likely plague you later. You could grind everything like we show in the videos and then instead of using a self-etching primer, you could use a rust converting primer. The problem with that though is it is not a guarantee that all of the rust coated by the primer will be converted. It SHOULD convert, but there's no real way to be 100% sure.

[@pammiller1528]

@@PondArmorEpoxy thank you for your reply.

[@tobywillify]

Is it necessary to sand in between coats if it’s left to sit for 12-14 hours? Too hot to finish the second coat today and I’ll need to finish up tomorrow

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Yes it is. It is best to layer up in various coats all in the same day about an hour or so apart to avoid the need to rough the previous coat up.

[@jordanwest2646]

I’m trying to convert a chest freezer into a cold plunge using your product. Would you recommend foregoing caulking at the metal seams and just use pond shield? Or is there a way to apply caulking so that wouldn’t affect quality of pond shield application

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Caulk after you apply Pond Shield. I suggest using SikaFlex 1A on those joints as they are likely to move to some extent.

[@jaydub533]

What if you’ve already applied the Sika? Will the pond shield last over it?

[@karad3]

Does Pond Shield hold up well to hot water? We're using our stock tank as a hot tub. Temps up to about 105 degrees. Thanks

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

Yes it does work in hot tub scenarios as well.

[@pammiller1528]

Is this product durable throughout a Minnesota winter? The stock tank would be empty of water.

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

It depends on how you store the tank. I have seen the best survival come from a tarp used to line the inside, then fill the tank with wadded up tarps, then pull a tarp tight over the top and use bungee cords to band it to the tank all the way around.

[@pammiller1528]

@@PondArmorEpoxy thank you for your reply however this is an 8’ in diameter stock tank used as a pool. That is A LOT of tarps to fill this tank. Bummer.

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

@@pammiller1528 Not really, Harbor Freight has them in all sorts of sizes and they are cheap, especially if you grab a coupon online from them.

[@sjelliott6660]

How much alcohol gets added to the 1:1 mixing ratio? Is it 1:1:1?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

It is not a 1:1 mixing ratio. It's 2:1. Two parts of Part A, one part of Part B. The instructions read, mix 2 cups Part A, 1 cup Part B and IF you add alcohol (which is generally only needed for rough surfaces) then you add up to 1/4 cup of 90% or higher rubbing alcohol. Check out the instructions here: www.pondarmor.com/instructions/

[@Napole0215]

How long should one let it cure before adding water?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

At least 24 hours. Then you need to touch the coating and make sure it all feels like smooth, dry plastic. If it is still tacky, let it sit longer.

[@crazyhorseflames]

Can you give us an update? I've done some research and I've seen instances where after a year the pond shield is peeling in places and looks discolored. And they followed the directions just like in this video. How does the Pond Shield hold up to the chlorine over time?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

It holds up to chlorine just fine as long as the chlorine is dissolved and put into the tank first. Peeling usually happens because tanks are emptied and stored in a location or position different than where it is normally used. It's best to either keep them in place with water and a floating pond heater or pack them with something thick like layers of canvas and then cover them to shield them from extreme elements. Turning them upside down to store or rolling them down the hill to the garage can cause a fair amount of damage.

[@sjelliott6660]

​@@PondArmorEpoxy Man, I learned not to store it upside down the hard way.

[@kassiebro]

Sammmmmmmmmme

[@dawnperry6591]

Do you have a list of the products we need? You said SEM to get at an auto parts store. Where do we get pond armor epoxy You said hardener with no product name or anything. I need specifics. This is the first kind of project I'm doing like this. A step by step transcript would be very helpful on this and future projects for the novices in the bunch.

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

SEM self etching primer at an auto PAINT store. Pond Shield epoxy on the www.pondarmor.com website, tools, either borrowed, rented or owned, consumables like sandpaper and such at a hardware store. The consumables are basic painting items but I prefer to use a $3 or $4 polyester paint brush and I will cut 1/3 of the bristle length off of the brush to mildly stiffen it. I also use a Bondo spreader found at an auto parts store to pull the epoxy around before brushing it. You may also find this list helpful as well: www.pondarmor.com/a-list-for-preparing-to-use-pond-armor-epoxy/

[@dawnperry6591]

@@PondArmorEpoxy What about the hardener you mention? Is that part of the pond armor package? You mention to brand name. Please clarify.

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

@@dawnperry6591 That's part of the Pond Shield kit. You get Epoxy and hardener.

[@dawnperry6591]

@@PondArmorEpoxy I have a 40-gallon stock tank. How much pond shield would I need?

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

@@dawnperry6591 I don't know. Tell me what the length, width and depth is or if it is round tell me what the diameter and depth is.

[@yorkshirekoi2246]

your pond shield is total rubbish.. I have a few points first of all when I asked for some to finish a small job you could have sent me some as good will. Instead I had to spend more bloody money on this stuff. I asked you if Art none toxic resin could do the job and your response was a joke...1st point its inconsistent it sets very past in a small tub or one of the tins supplied and yet takes hours to set when applied onto a planter box. ( box made of plywood) I ruined a total full load because the tin had gone rock solid tin was red hot. 2nd point after having bought another pack. I thought maybe I had a bad batch... So bought my 3rd pack. I applied it again to cover an area that was soft and gooey it never dried as such the coating had to be ripped up. I started again on that area after sanding it down which was a job in itself . Applied another coat 50% part A and part B. The coating after 1 hour was still not dry.. In the mean time I made another batch this being batch 2.. batch 1 was still not dried. Left batch 2 to sit in a plastic mixing container for about 5 minutes. I came back checked batch 1 on the wood still wet batch 2 was rock hard total solid what the hell is going on this stuff is inconsistent Ive spend £150 on this stuff its useless and a waste of time I would be better off using fibreglass resin instead... I am not happy and your attitude when I asked for some advise on if art resin could be used as an alternative was very rude. regards.

[@PondArmorEpoxy]

I am sorry you had a bad experience. I am curious as to who you received your tech support from. I will say that in your description it seems some of the instructions that come with the kits were not followed or may have been altered. You cannot skip instructions or alter them and expect a positive outcome. If you'd like to talk more about this, you can email me at [e-mail]. I'll be happy to help.