STOP Overexposing S-Log3 - Sony Settings Breakdown - Episode 02

In this episode, we will break down why you don’t need to over-expose S-Log3, what Sony recommends from their white papers, noise levels, zebra settings, and more. Join us LIVE as we also grade users submitted footage.

[@t0mwhazzup]

I am really wondering where this recommendation to not overexpose S-Log 3 comes from. I watched this video mainly because of the title but didn't really get a conclusive answer on why you (amongst some other) recommend that. We are shooting on FX6 & FX3 professionally and we exclusively use Base ISOs (800 and 12800 for those cameras) and CineEI to 2 stops under (so either EI200 or EI3200), which means that the actual footage is recorded 2 stops brighter than shown on our monitors. On top of that (!), whenever the scene allows, we aim to raise our exposure even further until zebras (set to 92+) occur and then dial the exposure back a little bit (usually by ND filter). We never had any problems whatsoever as long as none of the RGB channels clip, but way cleaner overall image (and especially shadows of course) than the competition. Why would I leave out this unused headroom of exposure latitude? Raising exposure in camera (by providing more light either through reducing ND, opening up the aperture, slower shutter, or simply light the scene more) as far as possible without clipping lifts the image signal further above the noise floor, and in post, we dial in the correct exposure (= lowering exposure). This expo reduction in post pushes the noise even further down into the blacks, giving a way cleaner image. Of course, the higher dynamic range the scene is, the less it is possible, but if you always take orientation from the clipping point and expose short before clipping (ETTR), you get the best image quality.

[@GamutLUTs]

It's recommended by the actual camera manufacturer for maximum dynamic range. The original reason people were over-exposing was because of S-Log2 which is much much noisier in the older sensors and shadows. In order to clean up the image, you would over-expose and then bring down exposure in post thus reducing the high amount of noise. Since the newer cameras and sensors with S-Log3 have been out, the noise is much more minimal and no long necessary to get great results. It's true that with any camera, in order to have the least amount of noise, you would over-expose and then bring down in post. However, you then sacrifice dynamic range and also your exposure focus will always be on the highlights and not skin-tones or middle gray which is more important. If you want to blow out a window in a shot, you can ETTR because your reference would no longer be accurate. However, Middle Gray exposure is always a consistent reference no matter what shooting environment. If you value dynamic range, film at the base ISO and expose middle gray according to the manufacture recommendations. If you value least amount of noise, ETTR. I wouldn't say ETTR creates the best image quality, but that it creates the least amount of noise in the shadows. Hope that helps explain our position on this topic a little better. Thanks for the comment!

[@ProfesorLodz]

Regarding the title: Your microphone is overdriven.

[@GamutLUTs]

Working on improving our YT LIVES every week so we appreciate the feedback as we continue to improve and get better! Let us know if it sounds better this week :)

[@ty-k6708]

What zebra settings would you recommend setting the camera to for Slog3 and S-cinetone?

[@GamutLUTs]

We don't have the camera in front of us right now as we rented it for this shoot. I do know the IRE settings in post do not translate to the same numbers in camera so it can be a little deceiving. In post, S-Log3 clips around 88 on the IRE scale, but in camera, I believe 95% might be a setting that translates the same. Don't quote us on that though haha.

[@InnerAspectMedia]

Do these concepts you went over transfer over to aps-c on new Sony cameras like a6700?

[@GamutLUTs]

It applies to any Sony camera that can film in S-Log3 in 10bit. Not sure those cameras can film in 10bit, so it wouldn't apply in that scenario. Hope that makes sense.

[@AvenueImaging]

One of the best breakdowns you’ll find on this topic. Well done!

[@GamutLUTs]

Glad to hear that-we put a lot of research into this one, ha!

[@MarkKidsley1989]

fun fact, the sony lens / body caps are middle grey

[@GamutLUTs]

i wouldnt trust anything other than a professional color chart for an actual middle gray reading. their are too many nuances with reflection issues and color paint on caps that can cause slight shifts. If in a pinch, it may be better than nothing though. Fun interesting note though, so thanks for sharing.

[@chunmanf]

As a new DSLR shooter, this was amazingly helpful! Was wondering if you’ll have a blog post with the same details for C-Log3?

[@GamutLUTs]

We've gotten that request a few times now, so we'll be adding it into our queue. Now we've got to rent some cameras 😂

[@chunmanf]

@@GamutLUTs haha! Thanks for replying. I’m sure Sam Newton and Eric Floberg can help you out there 😉

[@McDoogMedia]

Really great information!! Thank you!

[@GamutLUTs]

Thanks for watching!

[@chadjmorgan]

As someone who is kind of new to S-Log3, this helped me a lot! Something I found most interesting is watching you grade the last clip. I recently got back from Switzerland and was really bummed so much of my footage looks like that clip, probably because of the ND I was using. I figured most of my shots could not be saved but seeing you grade that footage I have new hope! I would love to see a full tutorial on how to save footage like that, especially with some examples in Premiere too. Thanks again for great content!

[@GamutLUTs]

Gad to hear that! Honestly, it's a good idea for a video...'how to save footage you thought was a lost cause'

[@chadjmorgan]

@@GamutLUTswould love to see it!

[@avishmayovitsh5038]

wow! great work!

[@GamutLUTs]

Glad it was helpful!

[@watzmaaname]

This was great! Very helpful!

[@GamutLUTs]

Glad to hear that!

[@ekphotography]

Although you are most likely correct, The worse thing you can do is slightly under expose bc if you try to lift anything the noise get's crazy. I use Flash Colors to expose but am usually .7 to 1 stop over all the time. Never even or under. That is on my Sony A7IV. The best thing I ever did was really use False colors and nail my subjects skin tones, but I shoot 99% people in my videos.

[@GamutLUTs]

We would only recommend under exposing for Sony if filming in a Non-Log profile as the noise is usually cleaner but also crushed. We agree that over is better than under but 0 compensation is ideal for most scenarios.

[@zerocool4518]

Helpful video my man! However for FX30, 1st base ISO is 800 and the 2nd base is 2500.

[@GamutLUTs]

Thanks for the correction! Yeah the FX30 and FX3 are different and sometimes I get them mixed up.

[@bssapp55]

Stop over modulating your audio, Shaggy.

[@GamutLUTs]

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