Stop overheating the small block Chevy & bigblock with inexspensive 30 dollar water pump

Typical 3500 rpm small and bigblock Chevy 60 to 89 two wheel and four wheel drive daily driver and home build hot rod cars and trucks
With Hot Rod Heavy any
Questions call me @ 541-336-6688 will try to answer all questions

[@ABs70nova]

Could only imagine how much vibration this causes and how quickly the seal will fail. Drag racing car or circle track minimal use great trick. Not for street use.

[@timgannon2993]

This bullshit cracks me up in my 37 years as a professional mechanic i have had about 3 cars overheat because the impeller had mostly rusted away and not pumping enough water ....then old mate comes along with this load of shit 🙄

[@SOU6900]

Only time I ever had a small block run hot was when the valve on the exhaust manifold wouldn't open because someone that had the truck before I did hacked the vacuum lines for the emissions stuff together and made it so the valve was always getting vacuum.

[@larrywarner9314]

You can do that to your $30,000 engine not mine , I've never hurd or seen someone cut the cooling propellers of a water pump !!

[@albertocruz5957]

Dont smoke when you explain

[@andyking9673]

get the impeller from Moroso or slow down the pump with the pulley ratios

[@adamgaffer3991]

I have a easier method leave the thermostat in it I found that out in a mud truck and get hotter in a two peckerd tomcat in the middle of the hole with no thermostat and as soon as I put one in it stopped over heating

[@marcbenish2204]

I have a 1965 Malibu 461 bbc, Air conditioning, power steering, power brakes,4l80 manual automatic transmission..... I have a stock design 3 row aluminum radiator, 2 spal fans, 3gal volume tank, and a expansion tank....14 lb cap and 20lb cap......100 degrees Texas weather 170 in traffic 190 on the freeway...... locked out 38 degrees timing

[@dave0z96]

Demolition derby guys do tricks like this

[@barrykilts4506]

You know I’ve often wondered about cutting all of em off and cut 1/4 of the vertical part off and weld em back on if you have a big radiator like I do and maybe increase the speed a bit by way of smaller pulley.ahh I’m probably reaching here

[@erikalston4496]

Just get a Adams water pump. Its the best belt driven water pump EVER made

[@georgejr2640]

Why does everyone think slowing down coolant is the answer. And speeding up airflow through the radiator is the answer.Does one medium have a reverse effect over the other?

[@clintonsmith9931]

Strang them engineers at Chevy made so many of them engines that ran cool for so many years. Don’t get me wrong, I love hot rods and Chevys more than anything but my family. I am 80 and worked on junk all my life. I found a clean radiator , a new thermostat, and a bottom hose that don’t collapse , I had no trouble even with my 60 over 13 to 1 327 in my 1936 Ford I drove to work for several years in over 100 degree temps. Must have been that old Ford radiator.

[@life_of_riley88]

Or you knew what the heck you were doing, set your timing appropriately, and didn't need to hack up your water pump?

[@robertash75]

If that molecule of water was going so fast it didn’t pick up enough heat I bet there was another one right behind it that would On the radiator side if it was not in radiator long enough to remove its heat there was more water right behind that water that would This cutting off blades may fix your problem but not for the reasons you think

[@MinecraftSurge]

this stuff kinda contradicts science and common sense, although i could definitely be wrong for some reason. But uh the water extracts the heat based on the temperature difference or delta. The greater the delta, the more heat transfer occurs. The more water is pumped through the pipes, the more heat transfer can occur with the same delta. I suppose this would just increase the water exit temperature, having higher delta in the radiator, however this doesnt help us because we never had issues with the radiator. But it decreases the delta in the block, because the hot water in the hot block, will absorb less and less heat the hotter it gets. Yeah idk anyway i look at it seems like making the water pump slower will just increase the overheating problem. The only feasible benefit is maybe if the engine is mostly under low load with random spikes of max load, this slower moving water would create a thermal capacitance, where it could probably damper heat spikes, but would overheat from prolonged high load.

[@flinch622]

Quality/simple idea for track - soak time matters in both the engine and the radiator, and not everybody has calibrated why their [stockish] pump impeller might be wrong at 8000+ rpm. Pulley ratios help, but mainly as rpm goes high a street design impeller is simply outside its design curve. Had you tried removing say... 0.150" off the tip of all blades instead of the method shown? Or, is it possible that rather than soak time, it is simply cavitation wrecking flow efficiency with that stock impeller [by poor suction]? Only a flowmeter would prove which is happening. I worked on some marine stuff before with shell & tube exchangers and raw water flow always had to be pinched down [on the exit side] or we suffered high temps. So yes... flow rate does matter, because temperature differential correlates directly to thermal efficiency [as in btu/hr exchanged] no matter what the naysayers tell you..

[@gunpowderHVA]

When the pipe is dry

[@bigbelconut]

And you can't put the cigarette down for 7 min

[@tonyhammer3588]

So you are telling me the ENGINEERS at GM didn’t think of this and they have been wrong since 1955?

[@Fasteddiesinhomerepair]

All i can say is your right but its wrong in so many ways

[@adamUDavies]

Interesting 🤔

[@davidmartin4544]

Having a cooling system that works correctly is the answer. I have 468 30 over 3 core aluminum radiator clutch fan 190 thermostat is the south that never gets hot .

[@75impalaca91]

That’s hard to believe that this is the best way to fix a heat issue. We run Sbc engines in demo derby’s and they will not get hot near as fast as ford or mopar engines. On the street I would put in a larger radiator or put on a fan without a clutch, or electric fans and put on a fan shroud. Before I’d do this. Or lower thermostat and maybe even try a electric water pump.

[@SoundsLegit71]

Or just put in a colder set of heat range spark plugs.

[@bobstud3754]

I purposely install distributor onto cam shaft 180 degrees off. Then i reverse chassis polarity by hooking the positive cable to the frame and the negative cable to the starter. Then the starter runs backwards when you start engine, so the engine runs backwards too including everything else like the water pump n alternator. It's runs A LOT cooler this way.

[@williepelzer384]

That will be in perfect balance, probably makes the bearings last longer too🙄

[@benburnett8109]

BINGO. This is everything that you should not do. When this guy says he is a dumbass he is not kidding.

[@waylonmccrae3546]

Won't matter at all !!

[@allentraylor5659]

Not enough weight or length , on the blades to worry about balance.

[@williepelzer384]

@@allentraylor5659 so if the engine is spinning 7,000 + rpm how fast do you think the water pump blades are turning?

[@MrRebelss]

Hope ya didn't get TOO many metal filings down in there.....🙄 The water is a "solid" constant...slowing it down isn't going to pull more heat off. Ever shoot a static water-cooled machine gun? Get a better radiator with better flow and hi-perf electric fan.

[@bleepin7642]

While this may solve an overheating problem, probably because the impeller is a crap design, the idea of why it works is completely wrong. Slowing down the water flow does not increase the amount of heat transfer in a cooling system. Ask yourself this; if you double the flow rate, does the amount of time the water spends in the engine block increase or decrease? The answer is neither; the amount of time is exactly the same because the water is always in the cooling system. It's not a single pass. If higher flow rates caused less heat transfer, then the water pump wouldn't be set up to be proportional to engine speed. Heat transfer is proportional to the temperature difference. When the water first enters the block, that is when the temperature difference is highest. The longer the water is in the block, the less heat transfer from the block to the water is taking place because the water is heating up. So to maximize heat transfer, you want to repeat the initial introduction of cooler water as often as possible. So high flow rates. Water can't move too fast for heat transfer to take place unless it moves at infinite speed which is impossible.

[@TheLonesometoad]

Much easier to install a restrictor cone in the upper hose.

[@alanmcgeachy66]

Also rubs horsepower just like trying to run a dyno

[@dfriendperc]

Not that I’m an expert but years ago I learned that restricting an impeller or propeller actually reduces the load on a motor or engine. Slowly put a box fan against a wall and see for yourself. The fan speeds up because the restriction reduces the load. As for weather or not removing blades in a water pump will improve cooling? I have no idea- except that I do know that Chevy has highly educated engineers designing stuff. Perhaps using a larger water pump pulley could slow the water down in a super high revving engine- if that is the issue.

[@SoundsLegit71]

Much easier to install a colder set of heat range spark plugs.

[@bottmar1]

Colder spark plugs keep your engine cooler? You must be kidding.

[@j.danaclark2166]

This is very counter intuitive. I'm not saying your wrong, but it isn't the 1st solution that would pop into my head.

[@jeanlawson9133]

Brother 😎 I'm gonna be your Friend today, I excuse the safety glasses always neglected that one myself... But as a Friend quit that smoking...😎 Scotty in Alabama.. Cool trick,,,,no punn intended... AIN'T IT JUST AIN'T IT 😜 lols

[@matthewq4b]

The issue is not the flow through the block but the radiator. The Coolant is not staying in the radiator long enough to shed heat. The best solution is a higher capacity radiator to slow the flow of the coolant and allow it to shed more heat so it can absorb more heat from the block.

[@franksprecisionguesswork501]

I think O’Malley might be right but for the wrong reason he’s talking about splinting that pump beyond 7000 RPM which I’m sure is just frothing up of large amount of cavitation and if that fluid is pumping through the head it’s not gonna do a good job of extracting heat. Halving the number of blades for that given rpm, the likelihood of cavitating is much less. Although I would also smooth out all of the jagged edges off where he cut the blades off. For sure if the engine is running with more timing, it’s working harder and going to produce more heat, so yes, you can affect the engine temperature by varying ignition timing. And if your cooling system has border line problems, then advancing, the timing could cause it to overheat. I think it’s common practice at times for people to leave the radiator cap off or loose when they have an overheating problem. But if the overheating problem is due to loss of coolant via a leak, yeah that loosening the cap is a good idea. But if the system is not leaking, it’s better to have a pressurize cap., This because boiling water has less heat, transfer ability than completely liquid water and a pressurized system has a higher boiling point. I think one other point is that in at high-performance engine that has thinner cylinder walls it’s possible that the engine could be cavitating directly on the cylinder walls much like some of the early power stroke diesel engines. And once the cavitation starts, there would be less heat transfer which would lead to more cavitation ad infinitum. If someone has an overheat problem , I’d try the power stroke coolant to see what happens. Thanks for the video, the smoking is a real turn off.

[@steventhibert9531]

Not what i would do for the street . on the track at high rpm ok but quarter mile or street not.

[@louisrichards3702]

for a overheating problem u need more water flow,, get a water pump with a cast iron impeller,, that stamped steel wont do it..

[@BruceWayan]

Tryed it out on my truck. It’s running alot cooler. After changing temp gauge staying at 170. Wating too hit the trail. Thanks

[@jim73challenger]

I have built and driven and raced hundreds of small block Chevy's over the last 40 years. By far, timing is the biggest thing that affects overheating on these engines.

[@kevinkelley3657]

I have raced a homemade 350 on circle tracks, I always used a stock fan blade and stuck pulleys. My engine turned 7000 rpms lap after lap and I never had a cooling problem unless I used too low on octane fuel, or I set the TIMING too high. I agree with you on the timing.

[@life_of_riley88]

Timing is everything. It really depends on camshaft/valve events though. Wild cam: MORE timing to run cooler. Mild/Stock cam: typically LESS timing to run cooler.

[@billrobison6314]

You can't run water through a motor too fast. You can run the pump too fast.

[@kevinkelley3657]

@@billrobison6314 That seems logical to me.

[@orangejuice4332]

@@billrobison6314 I agree. Cavitation can occur.

[@76629online]

This is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard in my entire life. The small block Chevrolet is probably one of the most successful, well engineered internal combustion engines in history. And you are going to “improve it“ by cutting half of the blades off of the water pump impeller. LMFAO!

[@douglasmurphy323]

Wow 😳 don't do this. I have been working on motor for over 50yrs that's a good waste of a water pump

[@brian_2040]

I don't guess it matters about the balance of the impeller?

[@LordMekanicus]

I usually tap water out of the back of the heads and plumb it to the water neck above the thermostat. The difference in pressure and flow forces the water to flow through the full length of the heads. Haven't had much of a problem, even running 36 degrees ignition timing.

[@markbunn8576]

If you're running a thermostat and it's working properly this shouldn't be necessary.

[@blackericdenice]

I’ve owned a few 350s and I’ve never had a problem with overheating.

[@WVXL64]

I have a 440ci big block Chevy making right around 600hp with 11:1 compression. It runs on 94 pump gas. I run a proper sized aluminum radiator for maximum fin to tube surface area, a stock 7 blade steel fan, and a 160 degree thermostat, with an aftermarket (flowkooler) stock replacement style waterpump. On a 90 degree day, turning 3500rpm on the highway itnruns at about 170 degrees, and in traffic will get up between 180-190. You just need a proper tune and the correct parts, not gimmicks.

[@SoundsLegit71]

You got the right set of spark plugs colder heat range.

[@TobiasDuncan]

So the GM engineers have no idea what they are doing?

[@javaman2883]

For racing multiple companies sell hign flow or high volume pumps that flow faster. Are you saying those companies that make parts actually used in racing are wrong?

[@colehara]

Wouldn't it be easier to just install a bigger water pump pulley?

[@benburnett8109]

YES, BUT THIS CHANNEL IS DEDICATED TO BEING STUUUUUUPPPPPIIIIIIIIIDDDDD.

[@frankfitz3421]

Nice...so all those metal shavings are in the seal. 😦😖

[@hajrudinkavazovic2231]

Smart guy with cigarette in hand 😊

[@utahcountypicazospage5412]

This is slowing down the water leaving it longer in the radiator to cool which means a bigger radiator would do the same thing without cutting make sure to clean all that metal out 160tstat big radiator and problem solved because when you make it work hard you will need that water moved

[@tomsmith4066]

Put back the thermostat it’s restricting enough

[@PANTHEON71]

simpler fix for a overheating Chevy. replace with a Ford 351...fixt

[@greenhometony]

Did you know that ford circled the problem? Lol, I've owned some great older ford's, the newer ones kinda suck.

[@PANTHEON71]

@@greenhometony did you know Chevys are made from recycled bud light cans?

[@PANTHEON71]

@@greenhometony did you know that the "heartbeat"of America was really a chevy rod knocking? did you also know bowties are for boys?

[@billbirch3748]

The only heating problems I've had are insufficient radiator size or no fan shroud. Never got into HV or electric water pumps. Most people are not driving their engines 5,000rpm and up on a circle track. You need to resize pulleys to slow down rotation speed not foul up the pump. Same with the alternator. These are sized for daily driver not tach warp speed racing.

[@davidleary823]

Bullshitto. Go to Stewart water pump web sight and read up on water speed. Slowing water down does nothing.

[@RickyBobby615]

Had a 91 chevy I bought in 95, always ran at halfway mark on gauge. Radiator developed leak so I replaced, ran on 1/4 mark after that.

[@louisrichards3702]

in the last 20 years or so us Pontiac guys have had overheating problems because the water moves too slow, and starts to boil... seems most of the rebuilt water pumps use that stupid stamped steel impeller, which doesnt move water like a old style cast iron impeller does...we looked in parts catalog till we find a Pontiac water pump with cast iron impeller,say off a 1975 firebird w 455 and AC,it has the cast iron impeller and will move plenty of water,try that if u are overheating, did u install a stamped impeller water pump??

[@smokeskull]

Sounds like a trick to gain hp not aid cooling

[@benburnett8109]

IT GAINS NEITHER. THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU SMOKE DOPE AND TRY TO MAKE "COOL" VIDEOS

[@MrXerxes415]

One time when I was a green horn, put my accelerator carburetor return spring, on my Buick 231 onto my ignition distributor cap, which had a very pleasant hole in it there was no place to mount a accelerator spring and heck It’s very well bolted down, of course. Instant Very smelly car and cherry, red exhaust manifolds. Plus a rebuild. This also happened to a friend of mine as well who should’ve known better he was a farmer don’t do it.

[@Just1Spark]

Or, run a smaller pulley on the water pump. :/

[@desertdog01]

The Science?

[@red-doggracing5557]

Moroso makes a piece of aluminum that you rivet to the blades it makes a high volume water pump out of your stock water pump and it works really well

[@louisrichards3702]

or u can get a water pump with a cast iron impeller instead of that steel stamped one..

[@paulthompson1654]

Hi this would help when the radiator core is smaller than it should be and cannot cope with the high volume of hot water . But eventually a bigger radiator will be needed as hp increases . On some very high hp a high perf pump CNC impellor that runs slower is also needed .

[@benburnett8109]

tHIS WILL HELP IN ZERO SITUATIONS. DO NOT DO THIS

[@user-lx1nh7gg8o]

Wear your safety squints

[@johnlemmey7698]

You all are assuming that this mod is slowing the water down.

[@barnjob75]

THERMOSTAT DOES THE SAME THING!

[@mikehatter1800]

I have also found if you build a radiator shroud or grill If there is any gap on the edges of radiator or shroud Will over heat Air finds least path resitence and will go threw cracks rather than radieator Also a grill using to much rods orto close will also give you high temp

[@lgroves336]

NOTE: adding a straight fan and changing the thermostat out are needed. He makes this comment. I wonder if a thermostat alone will do it? Wonder what the temp range on the replacement? You get half of the info needed in this video. LMAO

[@SOAPBOXSAMBO]

We use to use a large washer instead of a thermostat. We kept drilling it out until the temp stabilized at max RPM.

[@brianwinters4991]

I to have been a mechanic and a small block fan for years and have never see this before , I wish I had the time to try it out !

[@simonsimon3907]

Wow in the past if i had a heat issue the thought of i hi flow water pump i would think ya that might cool it off weird things thx for the know.

[@pauldunn7000]

Why do you think there is a pressure cap on a cooling system? For every lb of pressure it takes 4 more degrees for water to boil so 212° boiling point with 1psi takes the boiling point to 216° 2 psi is 220° and so on, the psi between the water and the metal parts also increase the absorption of the heat from the parts to the water and then from the water to the radiator.. A hotter engine with in reason is more efficient than a Cold engine why ? Because more of the hot fuel is burning IN the engine, and not EXPELLED into the exhaust with that engine cycle ..

[@debragibson3489]

Other ways to slow water flow without cutting. Cutting blades might show positive horse power gains though. Physics "nonsense" to slow down coolant flow to decrease temps. Laws of thermodynamics apply. Entertaining for a moment tho.

[@coburnlowman]

Dad gad a 1950 Ford coupe. After a boring , and rebuild the flathead V8 ran hot. An old man told him to do this to the twin waterpums. Flat head V8s had 2. Anyway it fixed the problem.

[@LionsTigersBears]

Use a electric water pump with a momentary switch to cycle the pump. Creating a heat exchange effect. And run a 160 thermostat. Works great keeps it at 145degrees all day and night. Even at idle.

[@edwardtaylor4785]

IIR, the same trick was used on flat head Ford track cars for the same reason.

[@bottmar1]

Sorry. Too hard to believe. Fast flowing water also returns from the radiator faster to get more heat from the engine. Faster moving but still picks up same b.t.u.'s. Cavitation? Otherwise bull shit.

[@YourMom-mq4zc]

This makes no sense because your t-stat slows your water down and keeps it in the radiator longer. We never did that on dirt track we ran restrictors but I run a double pass ron Davis on my 406 in Phoenix. I'm not cutting my 300 dollar aluminum pump up

[@markk3652]

This is similar to how to help a Ford flathead engine cooler. The water passages in the head gasket were shrunken down over the evolution of the development of the engine. Washers placed in the thermostat housings restricted the flow too. I found that a good aluminum radiator in tandem with a high flow electric cooling fan does all you need it to on my flathead engine.

[@Peter-V_00]

For oval racing I used a gutted thermostat ring that kept the engine coolant under 180*f .

[@michaellopez4018]

Great job, alot of good information here. Thanks!

[@alnix7250]

Not saying this will not work and I do remember the round track guys using a fixed opening insert for a thermostat to slow the water down but with the thousands spent on R&D you would thing the water pump manufactures would have figured this out. I think it is all about the individual build but you do need to slow the water down I would do it at the thermostat that way you can change it back easily. Just my 2 cents

[@gilni9064]

If you really were a professional technician you would put down that cigarette bud down

[@warddavis4995]

I don't know that I would agree with "The lower the temperature on a small block Chevy, the better she runs." I mean I get what you're but there's definitely an optimal range, and I've often found them to be quite comfy in the 180-210 range. Just my experience.

[@joekrim6557]

Cheapskate fix. All respect to your channel, though.

[@prestonedmonds4128]

I had this conversation with an engineer at work because of a problem with overheating his triumph tr6. He said it's impossible for that to help. Speeding the fluid up always helps to transfer heat.

[@thelincoln72]

Your perfectly right: Heat output = M×C×DeltaT (M=mass flow, C=water heat capacity, DeltaT=temp. diff btw. Cooling water and anvironment). So the more flow the more heat tranfer! Rgds

[@matthewq4b]

@@thelincoln72 You are right except when it comes to the rad where you want the coolant flow as slow as possible so the coolant has a longer dwell time to shed the absorbed heat.

[@christsogaugetrains]

@@matthewq4bwhat thermostats are for

[@matthewq4b]

@@christsogaugetrains Ideally yes but if the capacity of the radiator is not high enough either through design failure or blockage it won't matter. And that still does not change the fact the issue is not absorbing heat from the engine but releasing while in the radiator.

[@christsogaugetrains]

@@matthewq4b all come down to the build. How thin the block is or bore. Pump just does that pumps water you slow it down to much water will boil in the block. Have have a good radiator proper coolant and air flow through the radiator with a shroud.

[@raybird3041]

This goes against the laws of thermodynamics. More energy is transferred when the water flows faster not slower. It's called delta-T.

[@naughtydonkeyperformance]

Not correct, if it flows over the surface too quickly it cannot absorb the heat.

[@MrTaylorTexas]

One material the radiator is made out of will transfer the heat faster or slower than a different material. If the water is moving faster than that it won't move any more heat away because the heat isn't there yet.

[@channelview8854]

Hot Rod Magazine discussed this some 20 or so years back but they confused me a little bit. The part that made sense, a lot of sense, was that you needed turbulent, not laminar flow thru the radiator tubes. Laminar flow results in the same water staying next to the tube walls all the way through the radiator so the hot water in the center of the tube doesn't get cooled. But I thought that faster flow caused turbulence. I think they said the reason for the restrictors in place of the thermostat was to increase turbulence in the radiator tubes. Anybody know the story on this?

[@TargaWheels]

For the street where I'm under 3000rpm 99% of the time, I run a smaller pulley on the water pump (long water pump), with the biggest factory lower pulley (8 inch?) and run it without a thermostat. In traffic for long periods of time it will hit 180, but while I'm moving it comes down to 170. That truck never overheated even though I had 3 different small blocks in it (the 283 .030 over ran the hottest at 185). I guess it depends on the climate of your area (60- 92 degrees over the course of the year, sometimes the humidity hits the 90's).

[@outfitsgarage88]

Interesting. I'll definitely try this.

[@1987Confused]

Just replaced the water pump on my work truck 94 c2500 it doesn't run hot as it is so I'm not going to tear it back apart but that might have helped with pulling up in the mountains and stuff.

[@anthonyiannone7618]

i dont understand how this can help , only thing i can think of is the pump cavitates at high rpm and removing half the blades prevents that????? i dont know the laws of thermodynamics but it would seem to me if the water moved "too fast" it would just bring the heat to the radiator faster??? But what do i know

[@user-cs3zs6jn1d]

I simply use a 160 degree thermostat in my small block. Everything else for the cooling system is stock OEM parts. 330k miles and never overheats. Even when it's over 100 degrees outside my truck never gets above 180 degrees.

[@lgroves336]

this makes perfect sense. He references changing out the therm but doesn't speak to what a new one should be. He needs help making a good video.

[@grandam]

What temp does it run in the winter? I run a factory recommended 195 NOW in my three 1978 Regals. The funny thing is I was running a 180, and when idling for over 5 minutes the with the AC on in the summer the temp would get up to 225, and I didn't like that. I went with factory 195 and now can idle all day and temp stays at 205 in the summer with the AC on. I've always wanted to try a 160 if necessary in the summer, but I was worried about the oil not reaching good operating temp in the winter.

[@user-cs3zs6jn1d]

@@grandam I think the coolest it's ran was around 130 or 140. My biggest problem in the winter is waiting for the windshield to thaw. But I live in the south east, so that's only a problem for about a month

[@grandam]

@@user-cs3zs6jn1d I'm in Louisiana so we really don't have a winter lol

[@msh6865]

Get a bigger than stock radiator, use a shroud and toss the flex fan. Problem solved.

[@martincaldera386]

I´ve always used copper-brass 3 core radiators in all my GM cars , and the only time it overheated, it was when my car was stopped in slopped road, in a traffic jam, combined with an engine cooling electric fan that failed.

[@nornd]

You know nothing about physics, the faster a fluid or a gas moves the quicker it removes heat. example: you will cool off quicker with the fan on high then if it were on low.

[@kmbriggs2693]

That's ok I guess as long as you are not doing that to a vehicle with an ECM or PCM. Will never go into closed loop .

[@mikehatter1800]

Nice trick good to know thank you Mike FLA

[@tylermemyselfandi8077]

Correct size radiator

[@jm1551701]

Man I wish I knew this trick when I was racing circle track , and I was always having over heat issues, this is a great hack, I will do this,

[@benburnett8109]

DONT DO THIS. THERE ARE 4.00 RESTRICTORS THAT ACHIEVE THE SAME THING WITHOUT ALL THIS BUFFOOONERY.

[@63grandsport11]

Why cant you put a restrictive orifice in place of the thermostat to slow the flow.

[@77chevy4x4]

I’m running a 1” hole just for flow .. pressures a bit much but holds 180 all day .. this I got to try for maybe the extra ..

[@jeffschall2062]

Standard

[@jimdriskell8427]

Yeah, tried it on my 350 sbc on my 04 Jeep Wrangler TJ conversion, did not reduce overheating at all. I have a 3 core aluminum radiator with an electric fan. Any other suggestions?

[@omalleysmobileservice7374]

So the question to you is so I'm running a big block whistleblower twin four-barrel and I'm running a straight fan with a five and a half inch spacer between it on the on the water pump and that is the only way if you get that fan close to the water pump to be able to cool the water going through the course of the radiator but the cooling fan electric is not going to do it you have to you have to cut the fins off the back of the radio the back of the water pump in order to slow the water down through the hedge a enough like a lazy chain of River floating on down the river I've done it many many times on any engine that I build since I learned that trick and it works so it's a proven fact that it works I don't know what you're doing I mean you may even have to put an electric motor on the water pump to turn the water pump slowly to give the fan I'm not trying to move the proper CFM of are across The corrs

[@jimdriskell8427]

I did exactly what you did in the video. I have a 3 core aluminum radiator with a 16" electric fan, no fault 170' thermostat, the electric fan is right against the radiator, running constantly. That's what I did, and it did not work. That's all I can tell you.

[@omalleysmobileservice7374]

@@jimdriskell8427 no question I do if I read correctly you said that you have 170° thermostat correct if you watch the video and you paid attention to what I said you must take the guts out of the thermostat and put the thermostat plate back in by doing that it is a constant flow of water. The thermostat opens and closes depending on the temperature that is needed for the engine to maintain a certain operational temperature. If you’re running 170° thermostat that thermostat believe it or not is still going to open and close and if it gets above it, I believe it’s 100° above what it is sit out if it’s set at 100 and 170 and it gets to 130 270° the thermostat goes in the default boils over and shut itself. Take the guts out of the thermostat and put the plate back in and your problem will be solved.

[@omalleysmobileservice7374]

@@jimdriskell8427 if you want to talk to me I don’t mind talking to you on the phone. You can reach me at 971-373-3336 and I can explain the concept behind exactly what I was explaining to you in the last text.

[@jimdriskell8427]

@@omalleysmobileservice7374 took the guts out, inserted the plate back in, still running 210-218 degrees Fahrenheit, ambient outdoor temp was 86 degrees Fahrenheit, so still not working. Installing a 4 core radiator this week to see if that will help.

[@theautumnwind2152]

Bigger radiator is the fix.