Stop Running Your Tractor At Full Throttle

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Here is the video from John Deere, supporting what I said, in my video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKDZomCQnrGohZIsi=8bx2H-bmTIgF6BdC Check out more of our tractor videos here: kzbin.info/aero/PLmYnhJtNUq7c2n8UTJASTf9qJQXQ_ngFP To interact with me personally, join the Rockhill farm Facebook group here: facebook.com/groups/1270496403596230/

[@ellobo1326]

The government has absolutely screwed the diesel engine for the average American tractor, skid steer, and truck owner.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Agreed

[@Scummy_shovel]

Absolutely. My big kabota i use at the race track I bought the last year pre emissions knowing it will be the last tractor I ever buy. Least new. My uncle bought the same tractor 4 years newer than mine. Mine has 1100 hours and zero issues. His has 400 hours and has been in the shop a 1/4 of the time he has owned it. The last time it was something f with the emissions and it was $8800

[@tightwadtv3421]

Tractor buyers are getting more savvy to this every day. A super low hour pre-emission tractor will soon be worth more than a new one.

[@thehimself4056]

What is Regen?

[@Idahoprepper71]

I have been a heavy diesel mechanic for 36 years. You are exactly right. Diesel’s love being under a load, this is why semi trucks can easily go a million plus miles before a rebuild. Work on one the other day with 1.4 million miles on it and it’s still doing the job.

[@bliz4600]

40 years internal combustion engine here and I agree 100%

[@dalemerkley4531]

I've been driving for over 40 years. Unfortunately it is rare to get 500,000 miles on any CX Cummings engines. The Company I work for has 7 late model W900 KWs with 600 hp Cummings Cx 15. Not one of them have gone 500 miles.

[@WillS-x9y]

One of the largest factors for engine life, of any kind, is friction. Higher RPM = shorter life; all things being equal. Now, a diesel lives in the 2k range. It will have much less wear then a 2 stroke running 10,000 rpm

[@stellaelectric1]

hes not right- a diesel should never ever ever ever ever ever be run lower than about 1800 rpm other than large prime gen or ship engines PERIOD - Ask Cat, Cummins, Detriot, MTU Waukeshaw.

[@WillS-x9y]

@@stellaelectric1 my tractor manufacturer thinks different.

[@PapaJack68]

I’m in agreement! Use power as required to accomplish the task!

[@jtarman70]

Bingo, regardless of DPF. Even back in the day way before DPF, common sense told you to use the power you need and leave the rest in the tank until you need it!

[@KennethPowell-kx3jt]

Thank you for this information. When I bought my 2040 Bobcat my salesman told me to just keep the Rpm’s at least 1500 to extend the regen cycles. As much as a pain in the butt the DPF filter is it has never stopped me from using my tractor while it goes into regen. I’m an old time mechanic and motor head and never run an engine harder than needed to get a job done. I totally agree with you and thanks for your video. Be safe.

[@andys5562]

I used to hit the regen quite often until I started keeping my rpms around 2K and I've never had to regen since then, over 3 years now. Not full throttle, That would lead to the problems described in this video.

[@Purehunter717]

I honestly feel like this is an under discussed topic. I see so many people running their compacts at full throttle. Once you get used to your tractor you sort of get a feeling of the best throttle positions for the current type of work you’re doing. I own a 3320, for doing most loader work I run it about 1800-2000 and it seems like a good balance. I will say all these emission components being required by the government is making equipment less reliable and less efficient. Keep this info coming Brock definitely helps those new to the compact tractor and equipment community!

[@TheRustyGarageandHomestead]

Brock, Great advice. As someone who has worked on and rebuilt alot of diesel engines over the years. I agree with what your saying. Thank you

[@ProductiveRecreation]

Great summary. I’ve got a 1981 Ford compact tractor. No emission concerns! It’s rated at 2500rpm for 540rpm at the PTO. I only run at those rpm when working a PTO attachment, or going over the road. Most of the time I run at 1200-1500rpm and use the foot pedal throttle when I need it. The foot throttle is a nice feature on gear drive tractors! To further back up what you’re saying, my tractor has a proof meter for hours, so the hour meter isn’t reading clock hours, the meter cranks differently based on engine rpm. At high rpm it’s faster than clock hours, and at lower rpm it’s slower than clock hours. Service intervals are based on proof meter hours, so running higher rpm means more frequent engine maintenance, regardless of whether or not the engine is loaded. For what it’s worth, when the load on my engine changes, or when it bogs down under very heavy load, it belches some black soot. If I had a DPF, that would catch it… so I’d guess abrupt changes in engine load could be a problem for the DPF system? I don’t really know… I will say that when my engine is nice and hot from working hard, the smoke/soot is minimized.

[@lewis2553]

The reason for the black smoke when your engine is bogged down under excessive load is the governor. When the RPM drops with the throttle set for higher RPM, the governor calls for more fuel, and your fuel to air ratio gets reduced. So it doesn't burn clean.

[@RobertBrown-f8t]

Thanks for he info. I will change my operation of the tractor from this day forward.

[@kmisercola7180]

I've always been told to run any motor only as high as necessary to accomplish the job at hand.

[@jackhutchins8272]

agreed, I have an L3130 Kubota and I mowed at 1750-1800 RPM's in low range at full pedal (HST) with a 6 foot finish mower, the tractor is 21 years old and still runs great. But it gets well maintained!

[@lordchaa1598]

The dealer I bought my tractor from, gave the same advice. I chose to ignore that advice and just use whatever rpm fits the job. The only time I’m full throttle is when I’m mowing or using ground engaging PTO implements.

[@Mittencarpentry]

Thank you! I had a dealer tell me the same thing. Just run it full out all the time. Also who wants to listen to that all day? Problem is I use mine for loader work and lifting things 99% of the time. I’ve learned to keep the throttle in a mid position so I can lift and when I drive the load makes the auto throttle kick in. I also minimize idle time, that should help keep the soot down also.

[@RoadRage_OG]

YES; glad someone is talking about this - So many YTers keep the throttle wide-a$$-open all the time. It's a terrible idea, always has been a terrible idea. Todays tractors are producing more HP with smaller displacement; this create higher RPMs, more stress on the engine and this is when the operator is using common sense. Enter the KZbin expert running at max revs, so high he can't carry on a conversation (OFF THE TRACTOR), this is adding far too much undue wear. . . Idle down, boys and girls, if it needs to regen more often, so-be-it, no harm, ho foul

[@andycalcutt2177]

Couldn't agree more, I've been operating equipment for 46 years and the only time my machines run under constant higher RPM is while they're working, like bushogging or using the backhoe function while ditching. Anything else is throttle as needed, so as not to lug the engine while under load. Never had any engine problems or fuel problems other than ran out of fuel once on MF and once on a 555B backhoe, neither of the fuel gauges worked and my attention was on trying to finish up the jobs, to get home for the weekend.

[@WillS-x9y]

Load = higher EGT. Throttle has nothing to do with load. You are spot on

[@DanPrice479]

After 320 hours on my Branson 3515h the system has only done the regen thing twice. Both times were the only times the tractor was ever put on full throttle until it completed the regen cycle.

[@stevenmoss2152]

I like my JD 770. No def no Regen. Still running strong💪

[@johngersna3263]

Good morning Brock. I really don't have a dog in this fight because my 2007 John Deere 2305 doesn't have a Re-gen system but that's one of the reasons that I bought it. The reason that I'm commenting is because of all the work that I've done with my tractor I've never had to run the engine over 2500 rpm to accomplish the task at hand unless i was using the pto with the tiller and then I will run the pto up to 540. I just never saw the use in running it at full throttle. God bless and have a wonderful day. 👍👍🙂

[@Cowboy_Steve]

Howdy Brock! Sound advice I would say. TBH, I usually watch a variety of vids on something that is new to me to see what the consensus is. The consensus isn't necessarily always right... but it is very helpful to see different views or opinions. Nicely done and thanks for sharing 🤠

[@kellywilson8440]

My RK25 has the yanmar engine that red lines at 3500 rpm , I have never ran it up to that and never will , I pull a 7ft box scrapper on my large gravel parking lot and its heavy at 2200 rpm works fine and doesnt bog down at all !

[@Brian2bears]

The principles you demonstrated to find the truth work with any subject matter. Do your own research to find out whether or not something is true. Excellent video sir...

[@Easton-ew9hc]

True I have a 4230 and had it since 1979 and only had one problem with it and that is the hydraulic system

[@looloo6322]

I've had Ford 7740s, Ford 5000s, Big JDs. I'm retired now only have a JD 3038 compact with a backhoe attachment, I run it about 1800 to 2000 rpm max. I don't feel the need to over rev the thing.

[@RobertBrothersJr-dc7nr]

I agree 100% Brock, I don’t run my tractor at full throttle. I only run it as fast as the task I’m doing requires.

[@timbervisions]

I watched the video you linked and saw the part about not running at high RMPs with no load and I agree with that. I don't agree with the statement you made about the linked pedal being the best for the engine though. I had a subcompact tractor without DPF before my current one that does have it. When I would increase and decrease the RPMs, that is when I would see black smoke (soot) come out of the exhaust. If I kept a reasonable RPM for the job I was doing, I did not see any soot come out. Since there is no filter it's easier to get an idea of what causes soot to come out of a diesel engine. I don't run full RPM with my current tractor unless I'm using the PTO, but I also don't do things at idle. Max RPM for my KIoti is 2700 RPMs. If I doing loader work, I'm usually around 1800 to 2000 RPMs constantly. I know I'm getting a nice clean burn of the soot at that point. My regens are usually around 40 hours apart. I've heard of guys only getting half that with the same model as me. They idle around with their tractor all the time to save fuel. I respect your opinion, but disagree on some of the points. Should you warm up your tractor and full throttle until you are ready to shut it down? Certainly not, but running at idle is not the answer. That is my two cents. Thanks for your video. I always enjoy your content.

[@northeasterndirtandpropert7974]

Could'nt agree more.No need for full RPM,but enough RPM for operating engine temps and clean burns.

[@alexlindekugel8727]

what i was told about trators with dpfs is and right from the dealer and a dealer service department guy. 2000 rpm min to keep it hot. and then up to whats necessary to do your work . and avoid long idling.

[@hopelessmotorsports5922]

I have a 2032r and it says in the operator manual that a heavy load is required to prevent excessive regeneration cycles. It specifically says to not let it idle at high throttle and it delineates between high load and high rpm saying that high rpm under light load( the example in the book is backhoe work) will cause excessive particulates to be created and the tractor should be run at high load every few hours during this type of work. I’m paraphrasing the owner/ operator manual but it’s in there.

[@outlawet3fan483]

I have a 38 hp john deere the only thing that was talked about in manual was its best not to idle and 1500 hundred rpms was considered not idling and so that's where i run whenever I'm doing light work, but have noticed it goes through soot cleaning more often in the winter and guess because in the summer I'm running higher rpms while using a finishing mower

[@acdii]

1500 produces enough heat to keep the EGR clean, idling does not. Soot builds up in a cold EGR system. 1000-1500 is the target to maintain good heat in the engine. Same for Winter, the engine produces more soot when cold, so put a piece of cardboard in front of the screen that protects the radiator. This will keep more heat in the engine.

[@travislang8400]

Thank you for the informative video. Do you believe the same holds true for the compact track loaders? I was told to run at 1500 rpm minimum when moving or working. Never let it run long periods of time at idle.

[@lewis2553]

You're exactly right for several reasons. One, my hour meter is RPM dependent. An hour on the engine equals an hour in real time at 2200 RPM. Above that, engine hours accumulate faster and regular maintenance intervals get shorter. Two, pistons reciprocate, meaning they reverse their direction of travel twice with each RPM. It's just common sense that the faster they do that, the higher the pressure that is put on them, their wrist pins, the rods, bearings, and the crankshaft, regardless of load. Motorcycles have a red line on the tachometer. Above that you're in danger of a busted engine. I think that can happen to any engine at some level of RPM. Diesels are not exempt.

[@jburch1544]

It's ridiculous that any tractor should need emissions junk. Reliability should be #1 for a tractor, more complicated equipment to fail, just like vehicles have become. It's a tool to do work!

[@gadsdenconsulting7126]

On these smaller tractors, one can take out the DPF crap in the canister, and run it normally, for experimental reasons, of course. 😊

[@cydonianman]

In Mexico 😊

[@gckshea]

I vote DELETE if you can, but only when at the fork in the road at a service interval. Thank you for the info, Brock

[@normhowes2975]

2022 Mahindra 26 hp here. Only run 2500 rpm with brush mower on. 1200 - 1500 otherwise. No re-gen to worry about. Saves fuel also.

[@jackvanbourgondien7349]

Brock thanks for the video and the many more before this one. I have learned so much from your video's it's funny because I bought a 4720 kioti DK about5 months ago in Colorado.I have not been able to use it much because of the weather and snow but that has given me the oppurtunity to watch videos in the meantime on what to do and what not to do. I probably would have screwed up my tractor by now. So thank you for these vidoes and I am sure that any new tractor owner will apperiate you as much. Please show how to put the implements on and off because nobody does that and yo will get a lot of more followers by doing so!!!!

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Good suggestion for a video

[@watershedoverlook]

Makes perfect sense Brock. 👍

[@patrickbennett9120]

Indeed you should run the recommended rpm... lugging a motor puts more stress on it than spinning it... also you get more oil flow and cooling when the motor is running at the correct rpm... and if you don't need the power back it off it will save fuel.

[@dank2265]

Which is why i still use my 69 ford 3000 for everything. It has no bells and whistles and it gets ridden hard and put away wet every time.

[@clarencemcgregor8568]

Although commonly called a throttle what you actually have is a governor control and the governor controls the actual throttle settings which increase the fuel and air delivery to the engine governing the RPM and horsepower of the engine. Full governed speed is often referenced as high idle speed.

[@fastlap2]

Brock great video and thanks for the link to the JD video.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Thanks

[@hc7190]

Brock do you have any info or thoughts on any products to add to diesel to lessen regens? Thank you for this video

[@randybreuer1685]

I grew up in the 70’s and 80’s to run tractors as efficiently as possible was a couple 100 rpm under full power burn less fuel and still got lots a work done

[@MichaelJones1527]

Diesel engines have been ruined since the regen system came to the market. I’m glad I have some good equipment that I bought before all the regen engines took over.

[@acdii]

Its not the regen that ruined them, its that damned EGR system! The only thing about the regen is the amount of fuel used to clean it. I don't mind because I can breath easier around diesels now, but HATE HATE HATE the EGR system! They clog up and shut the engine down as well as put soot throughout the intakes and valves.

[@MichaelJones1527]

@@acdii We agree on the same thing. EGR and Regen basically we are speaking of the same thing.

[@acdii]

@@MichaelJones1527 No, big difference. EGR opens a valve to allow exhaust gasses into the intake to be reburned, there is also the CCV system that draws fumes from the crankcase, which includes water and oil vapor. That combined with the sooty exhaust gasses coming directly from the exhaust manifold can clog up the intake, the EGR valve, and the intake valves. A DPF collect soot after the exhaust manifold and stores it until it reaches a percentage of clog, then a regen is performed by injecting raw diesel fuel into the after turbo(if it has one) exhaust stream which burns in the DPF raising its temperature to 1100-1400 degrees, burning off the soot. Two totally different systems that function at completely different times. An EGR system does not perform well on a cold engine, while a DPF just collects soot until its full regardless of engine temps or RPM. Raising RPM's to the point there is sufficient coolant flow and a steady hot temp is more to benefit the EGR than anything else.

[@GFD472]

Thanks Brock!!

[@UncleRuckus717]

The only "have to" I've read with regard to engine RPM is to keep it at or above 1500 rpm when in motion on a hydrostatic tractor. I've had three regen cycles over the 200hrs I've put on my machine. It does not go above 2000 rpm unless I am running a PTO attachment.

[@shawnboggs9602]

My Kioti mechanic told me the same thing a cousin that is a diesel mechanic told me. That is the 80% rule. Diesels, old and new are in their sweet spot under an 80% load.

[@MAG_A_MIKE]

Diesels have plenty of low end torque. I was taught to gear up, and throttle down.

[@MikeD1199]

2022 3039R, I can tell you on my machine . Running at 1500 rpm most of the time vs. base idle or auto throttle only it virtually never asks for regen . That being said, it most likely is doing passive regen as needed vs a hard request for regen cycle. Base idle all the time has always been a bad thing on a diesel . They cool off at idle and tend to wet stack which ruins the engine prematurely. Always avoid extended low idle operation . As far as max high idle all the time aka wide open , this will burn more fuel . The rpm rating for peak torque is normally the most efficient RPM on a diesel . Varies by engine . As far as the filter and DOC , life span has alot to do with the quality of fuel going thru it and the running condition of the engine . Dirtier fuel and incomplete combustion will cause these components to work harder and likely fail faster .

[@ismaelgonzalez3501]

what's your opinion on a cold start? I was told to started and let it worm up at high idle 1,000 to 1,500 RPM

[@alittletexasingeorgia]

The best way to look at it is to run just enough RPMs to not lug the engine no matter what you're doing. You might have to adjust the throttle every now and then but after a little getting used to it you will find the gear and rpm for most conditions that you can place your tractor in and not have to adjust so much. I usually run my Kubota L4060 in Mid gear range and run anywhere from 1500 to 2000 depending on what I'm doing. My tractor went to regen only once since new and has over 500 hours on it.

[@northeasterndirtandpropert7974]

I've never operated any of my equipment at full throttle.Premature engine wear,high fuel consumption.I run my diesels at steady 1800-1900 rpm all day long unless the task requires less RPM.I consider this to be the sweet spot on a lot of smaller diesel engines.It gives you the constant pump flow without modulating on the auto throttle.You'll notice the most Diesel emission put out the stack is at instant throttle up on most diesel engines.Hot or cold.You won't see any of that at what I call the sweet spot at 2/3 throttle AND the engine staying at operating temps,thats the most critical to me.Short runs,cold startups with limited use are the worse things you can do to a diesel motor.Like anything,we all have our different ways of doing things.Just different opinions.

[@Hereford1020]

Thats the info that I got from a dealership near me.

[@Totalyrediclous998]

I have a JD 3025D. Gear drive. For loder work, I use about 1800 rpm. That's it. I don't move it up n down because that's horrible for any motor. When till😂ing, I use just enough to give me 25 rpm above 240 so that when it's in the ground in working the tiller, the ground, and the tractor. If I'm just moving the tractor, it's under 1500 rpm.

[@scanadaze]

Hydraulix and the PTO shaft operate only at an RPM load. Meaning. The need to RPM to meet the operation load of the equipment. Driving around or the equipment sitting. Doesn't. Therefore, the RPM needs to be lower or idle. I do it with my gas tractors as well. Also, not letting your equipment come up to operating temperatures before using them hurts them. Setting for a longer time running than normal. It's best to turn up the RPM a little for oil and cooling circulation. I personally agree. 100% high RPM is not good. A diesel engine runs on high compression. Does anyone remember the old diesel engines in the semi trucks. After running full throttle for a couple miles. You would let off the fuel pedal for a few seconds and then get back into it. To let the oil circulate? Amazing topic. Thanks.

[@bcompton53]

folks probably started out by saying "work your tractor hard, and it'll regen less."... (what's funny is, as I'm typing this, you just said "you want to work your tractor hard"...haha). and through the game of telephone, that turned into "high rpm". 100% if I am running pto equipment my tractor regens less, regens more completely and takes less time to do it. Personally I do what you describe. Don't overwork your hydrostat by running around at idle, but I run the rpm up enough where with a minor increase in load, the rpm stays pretty constant, but anything more than a minor load, the rpm will momentarily drop down. And, every once in a while LET it drop down due to the load. PLUS running under high rpm is using more fuel, but at lower engine temps due to not being under load, so lower DPF temps, but more fuel going through. That's why the regen happens more often if you're not under a load. Question for you regarding the auto throttle. I don't use it very often, and here's my thinking; I come from aviation, and in low rpm high torque engines it is generally best to leave them at a constant rpm, rather than repeatedly going from high power to low. So, I wish I knew where the balance point was between keeping engine loads higher vs increased wear from varying rpm. Any thoughts?

[@gadsdenconsulting7126]

@BCcompton53 Not sure if this will help with your question about wear on your engine, but in regards to diesels and good oil, you may like this video. Mind you, it's Engineered for non-emissions Diesel engines. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p5PMpHl_m76BapIsi=mLUYPcKy9KBLqfTd

[@javiertorres7460]

Delete all that crap as soon as your Warranty is over.

[@robertaus8420]

We didn’t even wait that long

[@andrewweldy7508]

I have a 2025R, the Hydraulic upgrade you have talked about doing. Is that an upgrade I would be able to do with my tractor as well? I would love to be able to get a little more out of my tractor I received a pallet of wood mulch a few weeks ago and unloaded it from the delivery vehicle with my tractor. That said my tractor was barely able to lift the pallet. I want to be able to use it to the fullest but without breaking it of course. New tractor I have only had it a few months.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

I believe hydros plus works with the 2025. I have a full video series in those upgrades

[@andrewweldy7508]

@@RockhillfarmYT thank you, I will check it out.

[@N_joyn_3529]

So I am conflicted with this and here's why. Soot is produced during combustion, the colder the engine the more soot. Load or no load once the engine is at operating temperature it is going to produce less soot than it will at a lower temperature. The only way the engine is going to hit and stay at the optimal operating temp is to run it in the upper rpm range. I have a friend that has his own diesel repair business and works on primary on logging equipment. He was telling me the only dpf filters that he seldom ever has to work on are the ones on a particular brand of skidder, the main difference is the engine can only idle for a few minutes before the control module forces it to go to a preset rpm range in the low to mid 2000s. Idk

[@acdii]

This is all true. At idle a diesel produces little heat, it can run all day with barely a budge on the temp gauge. Soot sticks to a cold engine. A hot engine also uses fuel more efficiently, producing less soot. What this video talks about are those who run with the lever kissing the rabbits ass. You never want to do that unless in transit. Setting the throttle above idle will keep the engine cleaner and ready to go to work. I have two tractors a 2001 and a 2022, and after 20 years running the 2001 with no emissions controls, it is very easy to see the difference between idle only and high idle. No lugging! Already had one EGR replaced on the 2022 due to keeping it at idle, now I run a minimum of 1000 RPM.

[@RJ1999x]

Don't trust dear to ever tell you what's in your best interest, it's in their best interest

[@andrewanderson1436]

I always say start with low rpms and work your way up until you get to the rpms you need to do the work your doing.

[@alexwood5425]

I think a DPF filter is like diesel DPF filter!

[@IncredibleEdibleLandscapes]

I’m intrigued by this hydraulic upgrade you’re doing. Although I’m running a 1025r with no emissions system. How many hours does your tractor go between regen cycles? I do also have a 40hp machine which has a dpf. Seems like roughly every 10-15 hrs of use

[@RangerRage69]

This is another reason why I never buy a new tractor. I have a few hydrostatic drive tractors made in the early 90’s. No electronics and I can fix almost everything on those diesel engines with just the manual.

[@wicksfarm4895]

it is like people engage their pto with throttle wide open ' i see that a lot on KZbin' any engine should not run high rpm with no load on it

[@RichCadwalader]

"Accidently" leave the test pipe in there. lol

[@nealk6387]

The reason your dealer wants you to run the engine at a high rpm is because the doc/dpf works better when it’s hot. Also don’t allow for long idle times.

[@danthurman9076]

Test the oil, I find Cat does the best evaluations.

[@ajpsawmill4314]

I don't run full throttle on any of my equipment, unless it calls for it, but that's seldom

[@acdii]

Actually the RPM thing is more for the EGR valve than the DPF. You Don't want to load up at idle, you really should boost the RPM to maybe 1000 RPM so that when the load IS applied you don't get that burst of soot that builds up unloaded. That can actually clog the EGR valve. The DPF will soot up regardless of what you do with it. Anytime you put a load on that drops RPM will put a burst of soot out, you want to avoid that at all costs. I have a 2001 B2410 and it will idle all day long, but the moment I put a load on it at idle, say lift the heavy bucket, a spurt of dark smoke will come out the exhaust, but if I bump the RPM up to 1100, it no longer loads up. I have a 2022 L4060HSTC-LE with the EGR and DPF and I don't idle it unless I have to, I used to, but it killed the EGR and had to have it replaced. Now I run it at 1000 RPM minimum, and have not noticed any change in DPF soot level. At idle it just doesn't get hot enough and when EGR is called for, soot sticks to it. Running at 1K produces enough engine heat so when the EGR opens, the exhaust flows through without sticking to cold metal. Also there is NO reason to run WOT on these tractors unless you are on the road to get the max speed. I got to the point where I just bump the engine up slightly above idle, and unless I run the PTO for the mower or hay bine, it stays there until I am done. When the EGR was pulled, it was NASTY! Just coated with a thick layer of soot. Glad the B2410 doesn't have one, it would be fully plugged by now. When at idle, the temp gauge doesn't come off the peg.

[@InevitableTruth247]

well they are partially right, there is an RPM band range you can idle the engine at not under load, at least on the case machines such as backhoes that self indicate when set stationary if you want to minimize regens when you dont work under load (or do work under load) there are instances in cold weather that idling low for extended periods (hours) can plug your DOC, specifically on machines not equipped with DPF, and will require new after treatment system installed. Ultimately if your exhaust temps aren’t high enough and your engine isn’t warm enough, the engine is more sooty, which plugs the dpf sooner and needs to be turned to ash. What you described is why some newer machines use a DOC with a PM catalyst, where the PM catalyst cannot plug up as it is a passthru design and will always passive regen itself. the DOC catalyst upstream reacting with NOX and other particles generate enough heat for the PM catalyst. DOC should never plug except in instances of extreme cold temps and left to idle for hours. then system needs replaced (no differential pressure sensors typically to begin auto regen on the thin wafer that acts like a tiny dpf) the downside is you have to run high CEGR ratios at higher temps which wears the engine down but reduces NOx. Newer NEWER machine since tier4b such as on case machines just use DOC+SCR or DOC+SCR+CEGR, as the engine is allowed to run as hot as it wants, producing tons of Nox but all the pm is reduced from efficient engine use and the SCR deals with the Nox, and/or cegr works in tandem at lower ratios to reduce SCR injections some manufactures eliminating egr entirely and only running doc+scr, especially on bigger engines, as it extends engine life not running egr, but the trade off is you use more SCR DEF (but better than a dpf+cegr especially on bigger engines, as it eliminates fuel used to regen, which is more of expensive than DEF usage). The way I see it, if there is any change you can see tangible benefits even on just your farm, reducing NOx and super fine PM is a huge plus since breathing that stuff in wreaks havoc on the local level, and is currently what Europe is coming to terms with. Europe went the route of fuel efficiency, ignoring NOx while the US focused on every particle leaving the exhaust, as a result we have cleaner air from tailpipe emissions per capita than europe and fewer air quality related casualties (its why a lot of diesel imports aren’t allowed, doesnt meet emission standards).

[@lwwarren]

Linked pedal is my friend.

[@darryladams519]

Glad my tractor is mechanical inmected.

[@y2kxj]

I wish I could get a tractor with a Mercedes 904/906 in it.. we run them in mining and they are almost unkillable..

[@NSEasternShoreChemist]

Maybe your John Deere dealer told you to run the machine at full RPM all the time so that the engine blows up faster, and they can sell you a new tractor sooner? Wouldn't be too surprised.

[@ricksanchez7459]

A parked diesel revved full tilt for 20 mins to stop global warming.

[@garny3766]

🤔🤔Maybe someone needs to make a compact portable pto dyno/load bank attachment that can hook on rear. Have a way to vari-load tractor. I could see this for folks plowing snow/ putting around. I know it’s a waste of fuel but is 10-30%?? more fuel cheaper/less time consuming than regenerating or dpf maintenance??

[@kdegraa]

Aussie tractors don’t have expensive anti whatever tin cans under the bonnet. My Kubota MX5200 bought new in 2021 has no regen, no DPF or any stupid sensors. Thank Saint Obama and his acolytes for this insane regulation on American tractors.

[@JCLawn51]

Well, to be literal about this. Hot exhaust temps will cause your dpf to regen less because the hot exhaust is burning off soot. On the flip side the less fuel you burn the less soot you make. Now the biggest thing is if you are running low rpm and your engine starts running rich due to instantly loading the engine, that will also cause dpf building. So in my mind running the loader at medium throttle to do loader work vs auto throttle would probably be better.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

That’s your opinion after looking at the information and making a logical assessment. I could also evaluate the situation and make a logical assessment. We might both be wrong compared to the controlled test done by a major manufacturer like John Deere.

[@JCLawn51]

@@RockhillfarmYT the reference to engine load they talk about is about exhaust temps. If you ever had a pyrometer on a diesel engine, what the video talks about corresponds to that. Because diesel doesn't have a butterfly on the intake, the governor only controls fuel delivery. So if you run high rpms and low engine load, that means you will have a super lean fuel ratio. On a diesel that means low egt. So that means low egt but should mean low soot in the exhaust unless you have low compression or bad injectors. If you run lower rpms and a high engine load that means high egt and a high fuel air ratio. So that means better passive regen but the thing is unless the computer has an air fuel ratio sensor to keep the ratio from becoming too rich you will have unburnt fuel causing excess soot. This is what is going one when guys "roll coal". Maybe that's part of how auto throttle works. Maybe the rpms increase once the fuel air ratio gets too high but that would not be effective for load surges. It wouldn't be fast enough. Regardless auto throttle is never going to keep the exhaust hot enough to cause passive regen for loader work unless they have a way to limit oxygen in the combustion like a butterfly valve or EGR and I didn't think they have EGR on a small tractor and usually engine causing more issues than benefits on a diesel engine. If the engine does have those things, then the engine should be able to create high exhaust temps regardless rpms or engine load. So I hope you can see my opinion is based on a detailed understanding of diesel engines and I'm not trying to formulate nice video for customers to abide by.

[@heaveymelt]

All I can say is with emissions diesel idle as little as possible, but if you idle alot you need to put it to work to help burn the crap out but running any engine full throttle with out a load is not to smart

[@arcadiaoutlaw]

My local JD dealer said don’t let the tractor idle a lot, shut it off.

[@LanceStoddard]

Hmmm...You're supposed to cool an engine off for a couple of minutes before shutting it off. Don't know about that advice.

[@mattnicol8882]

I have a 2021 model year 2038r, oroginal owner, 235 hours. It's been to the local dealership 3 times because once it gets over 77% or so soot-%, it want to regen constantly. I'm talking about it does a regen and only goes from 77% down to 75%, then maybe 15 minutes or run time and it wants to regen again. This tractor has done its regen probably 30 times (I'm not kidding) John Deer corporate/technical folks tell my dealer there is nothing wrong with my machine, and that I need to run at half throttle... blah blah...... I'm worried the engine life on my machine has been shortened by all this excessive regen operations (lots of extra heat, wear and tear. Etc...) I'm done.... I'm not staying with this machine when the warranty runs out. I'm so sick of it I probably won't buy another green tractor...

[@RockhillfarmYT]

I think I would get someone to do a delete on it

[@mattnicol8882]

@RockhillfarmYT I don't know anyone who can do that on this machine. If you have a recommendation please let me know. I don't want to delete while under warranty. And in my mind the damage has already been done. It can't be good for this engine to have spent ~20 hours running hot during a regen.....

[@gadsdenconsulting7126]

Where are you located?

[@mattnicol8882]

@@gadsdenconsulting7126 east-central Missouri

[@prg66]

The cost of deleting has the potential to be much higher than any repair. Defeating an emission control device is a $5000 fine minimum.

[@ryelor123]

I'm happy my tractor is a Belarus with no DPF.

[@andys5562]

I think this one is on you bud. Your dealer told you to run higher RPMs and they were right, They didn't say Full throttle, I don't know where you got that. If you start puttering around at low rpm you will hit your regen WAY more often. Keep your rpms at about 2K and you will never hit the regen. I learned this with my 2038R I keep my throttle at about 2K and auto throttle is on so the rpms go up as needed. My regen has not come on for over 3 years now. The first few years I owned the tractor I was hitting the regen every few months, my dealer told me to run the throttle up to around 2K and it's never happened again. They did not say full throttle.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

What is on me? I’m not having an issue. My tractor doesn’t regen much. I watched an official video from John Deere and summarized that for people who haven’t seen it The summary is to not run the tractor at higher RPMs and needed than needed for the job

[@andys5562]

@@RockhillfarmYTBy making this video you implied that you had a problem. What I am saying is on you is you misinterpreted your dealer saying to run a higher RPM to mean full blast. That's not what he said, (as you stated) He said a higher rpm. Like 2K. Not full throttle. I never regen. Common sense would tell you not to run any motor at full throttle all the time.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

@@andys5562 I made the video note because I felt like I had a problem because I feel like there is a problem with the generalized advice being given on other KZbin channels I’ve heard a lot of people say it

[@andys5562]

@@RockhillfarmYTRight on. I've never heard anyone say full throttle, if they are then they are wrong. Anyway, I just wanted to let you know my experience. I run around 2k with auto throttle on always and I never regen. Have a great day.

[@sealevel1919]

Planned obsolescence is a real thing. Started when they invented light bulbs. Good read.

[@brianwideman2342]

The cost of deleting your tractor far outways the cost of DPF repair

[@oefveteran09]

This is why mine is under 25 horsepower.

[@Jakerthesnaker]

Exactly, thanks kubota for my 24.9 horsepower non dpf model.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

@jakesvideos8204 my mini skid, has a kubota has a 25 horse

[@MrTBALLS]

Anyone that has been around tractors and diesel engines know that you don't run them full throttle with no load. Way too many first time tractor owner youtubers who think they are super mechanics

[@rickyblach3837]

You must be new at this... Good luck on your you tube videos....

[@bobocaterpillar3697]

if the engineers they WANTED it to run at 100% throttle all the time, you would not have a throttle pedal OR the auto throttle option, it would just have a low idle / high idle switch. they have designed the emissions to operate without the operator knowing or having to consider what the emissions is doing, it makes it easier to operate, and thus easier to sell new tractors to consumers, it takes care of itself , YOU don't need to do anything different, just drive it

[@FarmBossSaws]

Diesels like to be run hard, DPF or no DPF... Seems self evident to not race an engine on a light load, hard on fuel as well. When I work a tractor in the field I'll hammer it to 2000rpm and engage all the load it will handle.

[@skoffco]

Not me… 2005 John Deere 5205 49 hp no emission bull😜😜

[@mudpuddle8805]

The only way to guarantee that you will never have a costly DPF problem is to NEVER buy a tractor with a DPF. There are many options out there.

[@HotNoob]

9/10 times what the dealership says is wrong. they donno their shit.

[@stellaelectric1]

Ive been working around deisel engines since 1995 professionally as an Engineer and you should not be running your machine lower than about 1500 RPM except for cold starting warmup, hot shut down to cool the turbo, and for lowering hydraulic flow rate for certain implement operations. if you are not doing anything with your tractor and not going to be using it it should not be running- Caterpillar, Detriot, Cummins, MTU, Kohler, etc willl all tell you the same thing- forget about the DPF, you dont work the shit out of your machine you need to get a smaller machine for the task. ITs the reason why Data Centers ussually have at least 4 generators in parallel- it allows them to run the number required to optain a load over 50% of rated KW on each machine. if you put around on your tractor youll slick the cylinders and wind up wet stacking if you will and you will need to rebuild your machine because your will plug the DPF.

[@RockhillfarmYT]

Glad to hear that you agree

[@jefferymatthew2776]

Just another reason to keep my Ford 8N.these modern diesels are over engineered

[@Jakerthesnaker]

My kubota l2501 is 24.9 hp and replaced an 8n, no dpf on the kubota, the loader and four wheel drive are a huge upgrade not to mention the increased torque, 8n’s are great tractors but I love my kubota! I never get stuck plowing snow in the kubota but typically would at least once a year on the 8n if we had heavy snowfall.

[@sap3055]

The re gen and ad blue is the biggest joke ever it's strange how this can be good for the environment its always trouble with this crap systems many times my pickup is going in re gen after a long houl when I'm about to stop it I have wasted so much fuel and time on this systems and money of course yes we save some pollution but you need to add up for the production of new parts ad blue end transport back and forth to the dealer

[@RockhillfarmYT]

I hate it

[@gckshea]

And...has anyone done a study as to the additional energy and resource cost to develop and install all this DPF, DOC crap, plus the software, devices, legislation, enforcement, court battles, raw materials, ...to what gain? Seriously!! It's killing the end gain by way of middlemen getting rich in the process.

[@milstar71]

Sounds like you and your sharp buddy know better than a guy who designed and developed a tractor.

[@trickster8635]

So in other words, nothing has really changed in 45 years of diesel engine husbandry? That is, don't lug the engine and don't over rev the engine! Work in the sweet spot. But you have to ask yourself - why do all of these sub-compact tractor manufacturers require any PTO impliment at 540 rpm at near maximum revs!!!

[@nalley6815]

It just irritates the piss out of me when I see people not doing pto work running near full throttle for no reason. Makes 0 sense