Convex Slate Honing- W JNO Baker

Straight Razor Honing - W JNO Baker Convex Honing
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[@Martins-Shaves123]

Fascinating, such wonderful experiments with convex stones . I had inconsistant resuts, still hopefully one day ?

[@tmille10]

Boy that sounds good on that stone….👍

[@BigEShaves]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it

[@billm.2677]

30 minutes to shape a stone, 12 minutes to hone a razor…I gotta get me a slate. 😀 Thanks for the kind words. 👍

[@BigEShaves]

I did say right at the beginning that most of the work was done on the coticule 🤣. Most of my videos are long winded, and I normally start at the stone before the finisher. I spare most the bottom in work if it’s required.

[@seanstapelfeld]

You and me both need some coffee hehe… these types of videos make me want to play around more with that convex coti! Cheers my friend, I’ll be waiting for the shave video haha

[@BigEShaves]

Yep, it’s fun the play with. But what I have leaned, comvexing is an advantage with my thinner the grind razors. Not sure I will attempt it with my thicker grind razors or wedges. I have been successful with some of my GD, but they are so thick and stiff. The results are not real consistent. Then again, I could be the issue. Not the stone, razor or methodology.

[@thefeatheredfrontiersman8135]

So, why is it that nobody uses diamond sharpening equipment for razors?

[@BigEShaves]

There are guy who use Atoma and DMT plates in the progression. I have not seen anyone finish on them. They are aggressive, and most of us hone for comfortable shaves. I personally have no experience honing or finishing on Diamond plates so I would hate to speculate or speak much on the subject.

[@greggallant5058]

The shape of Jarrod's plate makes complete sense from a value perspective, but, if you want a stone that approximates using a wheel, creating a section of a cylinder, as you have, is more ideal. I could be wrong, but I believe the grinding wheels on the original Hexe machine (for hollow grinding) were cylindrical sections.

[@BigEShaves]

I shape my curved templates out of wood by hand. So there is room for error, after they dry I have to recheck the curve and touch up with belt sander if needed for consistency. That’s a lot of head ache and worry. I will purchase a Jarrod plate to have that option. But I do plan to eventually to use my wood templates press out some aluminum with my bearing press. If I can do that, I can custom any radius I want, have consistency I desire, and a permanent type plate/template. I still hone flat, and will continue to do so on thicker grinds and wedges. But it’s fun to experiment and play with. I do see good results from my thinner grind razors. I am glad I was able to do it on my own and my way, I learned a lot.

[@thesuperiorshave]

seen Hexe machines working in-person several times (Dovo, Böker, Wacker, NTS, Erbe, and TI all had one and I've watched all those brands make a razors), never seen them touching the cutting edge with them. Doubt the Hexe can accommodate a combination of a large enough wheels pair and/or a big enough separation between the wheels to get to the edge, their use is for hollow grinding, not the edge itself, they leave behind a little undeveloped rectangle the grinders call the 'fin', which is then cut in to a bevel. Don't quote exact #s because was 7yrs ago, but I believe the younger Wacker said Øs range was 25-100mm for the wheels, 25-50mm thick, and I didn't think to ask what the spacing range was for the gap. But that's likely too small for working the cutting edge in any case. I've never seen a novaculite wheel for those things and I've always looked for that. Never took a straight edge to the various wheels' circumferences at arm's length to the light to confirm, but the wheels used did always appear ~cylindrical to me, maybe a tiny tapering off at edges but nothing like 25'Ø across, I'd surely have noticed that. As to the Pike/Norton hard Ark wheels, they were made in more diameters but used by razor sharpeners 7-12"Ø and they were always 1-2" thick...who knows if they were perfect cylinders or if they had a little diameter going along their girth, the info's all but lost to time isn't it. Prior to the Ark wheel, I know that in the UK they used various wheels made of wood or large leathers (like manatee hide) and they'd put an abrasive along the rim for making a bevel, this is detailed in a 1840s English book I found. Whether they were shooting for cylinders or elliptical rims who knows, it doesn't say. A cylinder makes it much easier, certainly. But for many a razor with a bit of warp going across the cutting edge (and I have had many many such razors in my life shave wonderfully in spite of this, in fact my best or least-worst-shave razor's such a specimen from TI late 1990s make), when working on one side of the razor edge you'll either need to use the rolling-X stroke or you'll burn off some excess steel to carve out a perfectly cylindrical type bevel from within an imperfectly shaped piece of metal. The elliptical hone requires some extra skill (to make sure the heel and toe get a sufficient amount of time like the center always does too easily), but the risk of the excess metal consumption and the need for a rolling-X are eliminated. I could see a good argument either way, cylinders for new users or perfect razors and ellipses for more experienced users or more common razors.

[@greggallant5058]

@@thesuperiorshave Great info, as always. Just for clarity when you use the Greek letter phi (Ø), that's your shorthand for diameter, correct?

[@thesuperiorshave]

​@@greggallant5058 yes, that's also mathematics' chosen character for diameter

[@BigEShaves]

ØK thanks