Stud upgrade on Lynx footplates electric unicycle euc

[@jonoeuc]

correction: mixed up 1:57 with 2:05. loosen the grub screw first before the rod removal! cheers Protip from MrMalaman: "I give up tapping. I simply drilled slightly smaller than the diameter of the studs and screwed them in directly, the aluminum is soft enough for the thread to do itself, it's tight, it holds very strong, no need for locite. it's a lot less work."

[@bartpes1530]

Does the mod maintain the integrity of the pedals after a few months of usage?

[@stevorun9865]

You’re awesome! We all are DIY in this sport and guys like you make it all easier. 👍👊

[@leetNightshade]

Considering mountain bike pedals with screw threw studs have been around for probably a while now, I cannot believe more studded EUC pedals don't offer that option, even amongst the "best" aftermarket pedals. The e-RIDES Wolverine pedals I have, have the smooth screw heads sitting on top, it's so dumb!! Cheers, glad to hear some sanity in the EUC world. I hope manufactures take notice.

[@pacochawa2746]

Glad to say I got the Michelin pilot street 2 installed on my lynx. Fair warning the street tire that came stolk had a wicked bead adhesive. Harder to break the seal than any other part of the tire change. Michelin went on easy after the 2 hour struggle with the adhesive... Still gotta test it out but it looks good.

[@jonoeuc]

ohh because it was tubeless? any tips such as heat? I bet the Lynx corners amazingly with that tyre

[@pacochawa2746]

@@jonoeucI dont have the tracking as what I have before with stolk tire. I used a heat gun with no luck. I had 2 people i I sat on the wheel while the other just put all his weight 240lbs with the tire spoon and it all came off at the same time. I was trying just to dislodge 1 area but it seems it breaks the adhesive as 1 unit. If that helps anybody. Putting the micheline was a piece of cake. I do not recomend putting adhesive on the bead. I used the tire lube and its good on there.

[@pacochawa2746]

@@jonoeucoh ya it was all tubeless old and new tire.

[@GenghisKhan311]

What size was pilot tire? Thanks

[@oueuc2]

If you want to get your tap started perfectly straight, you can put it in the drill press, and start it by turning the chuck by hand, and using the chuck key for more leverage until it slips in the chuck, then finish tapping with the wrench. Nice job!

[@luwn00bz]

Very nice video! Appreciate the point about possibly "screwing" up the structural integrity of the footplates, that's what I was worried about.

[@jonoeuc]

I'll report back if they snap on me!

[@MrMalaman]

nice vidéo, thank you. I would like to contribute, I have already installed these studs on 2 wheels. First of all, I think grinding gently with an electric grinder is also a good way, maybe more easy. but above all, I give up tapping. I simply drilled slightly smaller than the diameter of the studs and screwed them in directly, the aluminum is soft enough for the thread to do itself, it's tight, it holds very strong, no need for locite. it's a lot less work.

[@jonoeuc]

that's brilliant. a bit miffed I didn't try that! I added it to the pinned comment for others to find.

[@MrMalaman]

@@jonoeuc thank you. you did a perfect job! I suggest a shortcut that won't appear in any manual, but works in some cases. Because even if the thread is weaker with this method (because you have to drill a little wider than if you wanted to tap), it's enough: there is no tensile force on the screws.

[@pacochawa2746]

Loveall the lynx content.

[@davidanthony1118]

Great content and thanks Jono. It's given me inspiration. So following Thomas Anderson's post on Lynx information group- Facebook I'm going to try his option. E rides pedal risers front and back( comes with screws) with mtb studs in between . 3.2mm drill and just screw everything in , no tapping as aluminum soft. Red risers to set the pedals off. Fingers crossed!

[@jonoeuc]

Ah I saw that one, very nice hack solution! The risers don't do much for me otherwise I might try. Cheers!

[@BigORider]

That tape looks so different to our US ones. Def always appreciate the measurements!

[@FinnBjerke]

You bloody well rule mate.

[@FinnBjerke]

V13 have the same pedals as Sherman S/Lynx I guess.

[@jonoeuc]

thanks mate! Ohhh yeah, the V13 pedals could use this. They were slippy even when dry for me!

[@pacochawa2746]

Not that I would do this, but seeing what people can do is impressive.

[@dustinhankins2153]

Nice job. I have seen another video where they just grinded the top of the studs with a drimmel to give them an edge.

[@jonoeuc]

Yeah that's a nice quick option you can try. This option is far better for several reasons (except weakening the pedals). 1 - They're now length adjustable 2 - custom stud layout to fit my requirements 3 - They're longer and grippier than ground stock studs Cheers! Jono

[@MathieuTechMoto]

Great job, they look grippy as hell !

[@peterstoop1]

Thanks for this Jono, a very helpful vid. I think this will be adapted by me for my S22.👍

[@arevee9429]

Yes, much cheaper than buying replacements. I bought the replacements at a cost of about 180 USD. The stock pedals on the Patton are not great for technical riding. While this is not expensive for the parts, the additional tools, if they need to be purchased, are not a small expense.

[@jonoeuc]

Absolute minimum tools are what's required for pedal removal. The pedals can even stay on the euc if you're only doing the outer studs. For the studs job. a hand drill, drill bit (4.5mm I'm guessing) and the studs. that's it! The idea as suggested by a comment here. Is to not tap the holes. Simply screw the studs in! Hope that helps.

[@pedro-on-wheels]

Keep up the great content!

[@kashalott]

Hi, is it possible to make vidéo about your seat, how do you make it and little review ?

[@jonoeuc]

yes! I'l be showing a super affordable version for $14aud (materials cost). Which doesn't require ANY sewing. Then I'll lead into a self promotion ad since I want to sell them in the future. The hold up atm is because I'm designing a 3D printed rear handle seat connector piece. cheers

[@BigORider]

At 2:35 what did you put in the front hole of the wheel? Is that foam?

[@jonoeuc]

After removing the stock jump pads there is a big hole staight into the case. I made a little mold and filled it with silicon and a pull handle from a ziptie! 3rd picture is what i'll be doing next. cut the jump pad along the teeth to fit the original plug AND your power pads. Replacement parts if you want them back $20usd @eWheels. credit @jon wall imgur.com/a/1ENVBCA

[@adamheeley285]

*waiting for someone to have the courage to put on bicycle grade clip-ons

[@jonbiggane5841]

Is it just those two little screws holding the pedals on?

[@jonoeuc]

not quite, each rod has a fairly hefty grub/set screw. The end caps also prevent the rods escaping to the outside but not towards the interior.

[@GUNDanielGUN]

How much does this option degrade the strength of the pedals? I'm afraid that if I drill holes, the pedals will become brittle.

[@jonoeuc]

Unknown yet, time will tell. I dropped from a height of 3 steps onto concrete as a first strength test. Also consider the rider weight. I'm maxing around 77kg (170lbs)

[@TimTimEUC]

So I did this to my V13's stock pedals 9 months ago, rider weight 225lbs, jump a lot with suspension set very stiff for lots of impacts, and all is good still.

[@marlinkeys3972]

Can I ask you a very serious question I have the Sherman s and I have the lynx but the Sherman s feels faster it picks up speed faster than everything. Is there something wrong with my wheel or can you confirm that it takes off faster?

[@lefotografion]

What mode do you have it in? SS in medium or soft will take off quite nicely, Lynx has higher pedals and my be set to hard mode

[@marlinkeys3972]

@@lefotografion i ride everything in hard mode but my lynx feels slow ewheels don’t believe something is wrong but eveyone who rides feels the ss is faster

[@lefotografion]

@@marlinkeys3972 how do you notice that it's slow? Is there tiltback? Or is it beeping? Is the pad setup the same?

[@marlinkeys3972]

@@lefotografion no it just feels very sluggish and ewheels keep giving me a hard time everybody who rides say the exact same thing the ss feels faster

[@97miguee]

I think that the hard pedal mode in the LYNX is much harder than SS and you have to make more effort, try to put it at 50%, make sure that the HS is activated and all lameterized just in case, also the configuration of the pads is Important, if you want to accelerate fast and easy you must put them more advanced, try this and please warn me

[@omidel.]

wait for lynx full review

[@jonoeuc]

it's slowly coming... lol i'm daunted by it to be honest.

[@milordas]

imo M5 is too big to drill holes in to those

[@jonoeuc]

What would you specs be?