Subpanels only get SER Cable!

And are unbonded!

[@JaneGraeSmithy]

Fantastic summary!!! Years of unanswered questions answered in minutes!

[@chrism228]

So many questions answered in 4 minutes; THANK YOU!

[@LucifersDeathSquad]

He didn't answer them right

[@danwilliams1387]

Simple and to the point more information then half the other videos that are 30 to 40 minutes long thanks

[@sethtaylor5938]

A main breaker on a sub-panel is not necessary because if sub panel is in the same building (if you are in a different building then NEC 225.31, 225.32, 225.33 apply). That said, having a main breaker in the sub-panel is also acceptable. ... A main lug type load center does not have a main circuit breaker. ST. Substation Engineering. CL&P.

[@djk142211]

SER cable is good for all sub panels except for pool equipment panels. In that case, feeder must have 3 conductors plus insulated ground conductor. Was changed in 2014 NEC 680.25 Feeders. These provisions shall apply to any feeder on the supply side of panelboards supplying branch circuits for pool equipment covered in Part II of this article and on the load side of the service equipment or the source of a separately derived system. (A) Wiring Methods. (1) Feeders. Feeders shall be installed in rigid metal conduit or intermediate metal conduit. The following wiring methods shall be permitted if not subject to physical damage: (1) Liquidtight flexible nonmetallic conduit. (2) Rigid polyvinyl chloride conduit. (3) Reinforced thermosetting resin conduit. (4) Electrical metallic tubing where installed on or within a building. (5) Electrical nonmetallic tubing where installed within a building. (6) Type MC cable where installed within a building and if not subject to corrosive environment. (2) Aluminum Conduit. Aluminum conduit shall not be permitted in the pool area where subject to corrosion. (B) Grounding. An equipment grounding conductor shall be installed with the feeder conductors between the grounding terminal of the pool equipment panelboard and the grounding terminal of the applicable service equipment or source of a separately derived system. For other than feeders to separate buildings that do not utilize an insulated equipment grounding conductor in accordance with 680.25(B)(2), this equipment grounding conductor shall be insulated.

[@sethtaylor5938]

For 50 amps 2 space 4 circuit sub panel you can use 6/3 NM-B CU. This NM ( Romex) has 2 hots neutral and bare ground. Good for 50 amps in most cases where voltage drop isn’t a problem. ST

[@CHUDWICK111]

thank you i've been looking for this exact information.

[@LLCStreetwise]

So I've got a 100amp sub-panel that was put in 20 years ago in a second-story addition. I just took a look and see that the contractor used 2-2-2 (2 hot, 1 ground) in that panel 😯. It does have a main breaker on it and all of the breakers have either ground-fault, or arc-fault protection. BUT... it sounds like that's not proper code? So like if I have an electrical fire, the insurance company may look at that and say "sorry"? Thoughts?

[@betosgarage]

great video helped me out installing mine🔥

[@josephgarcia676]

Hello JAMES, I just ran across your video. I’ve been hunting and hunting for somebody that has a lot of knowledge of some pets. OK there’s a building I went to commercial went to the panel where they said the lights were coming on and off they went to a switch first of all open the door with the key came in the Comic store went to the left turn the lights on went to the right turn the lights on nothing zero they call me OK so I go down there thinking it’s gonna take me a good hour and a half to get this wrapped up When I wrong I started replacing the GFCI‘s on that side all the outlets and did them and this is what’s going on had a humming noise at first just like something to draw and power on that side but there’s a panel that does not have any shut off to it. I think that was the original one. Then they added onto the building and they put a brand new panel which they just told me about three days ago. They didn’t know they had that panel. Unbelievable, I got no power to that one side. All the breakers are fine on the new panel. It says lights out plugs but going to the other panel which was originally the first panel. I do believe which only has 3SERSE cables coming in but something to draw in power what do you think could be the problem I need some help and everything is a drop ceiling area is covered. There’s no wire for nobody to chew on.

[@davidbruce5377]

Hi James, can I ask your opinion on grounded Off grid solar? Here is my plan; Main panel - 200amp with a 100amp sub panel. An off grid solar inverter 120/240v fed into the main panel on 2 pull 60amp breaker. The Inverter MFG, indicates that the inverter is already fixed with a neutral/ ground bond. Would it be suitable to remove that inverter neutral/gnd bond and maintain the combined bond at the first point of disconnect and maintain separated Neutral - Ground at the Sub? ( with Ground to earth from the Main panel?) Thanks James

[@supersonicplush8858]

SER if in the same building. On detached building it requires THHN/W in conduit.

[@LucifersDeathSquad]

You have no idea what you're talking about

[@stevestanczyk601]

Where is the required breaker retainer for the backfed main?

[@adambuilds]

Love it. Simple and to the point. Subpanel = NOT BONDED Main panel = BONDED Why? So power only has ONE return path back to the source.

[@abmcd9381]

Enjoy your very informative vids. Got a question about splicing a ser cable after an unrelated fire burnt a small section of it. Can you splice a service cable back together after cutting out the burnt part? Thanks!

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

Well, no, but can add a junction box and you will need a permit. So, a straight up splice outside a JB is a major no no, but you could add one or two junction boxes which are always accessible. If it was an electrical fire, for sure find the cause and repair it before doing anything else. I'm assuming it's good size cable so you would need split bolts and you use alloy split bolts for AL wire and copper coated split bolts for Cu wire. Lube up the bolts with electric grease so the inspector sees and tape in front of him/her. All connections must be in accessible junction boxes.

[@FallLineJP]

2:50 - about “milliamps” - Actually the neutral/grounded conductor would be carrying the full load of the 120V circuits. It’s “leftover” in the sense that the loads on opposite phases do cancel each other out, but you’re unlikely to get them balanced so well that you only have milliamps left over 🤓🤓 Great video!

[@jesser9134]

SER is for above ground applications only btw. Depending on where you live USE cable (buried) is more common. Still not sure if it's used for sub panels or not though

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

Yes, you are correct. SER is indoor cable. USE-2, THW-2 are SE cables. I just did a new meter disconnect here and I'll shoot a video on it. 2 designation is 90C instead of 75C for the heat rating. It's nice because is direct burial and can even be in water. The SER here was all indoor.

[@JaneGraeSmithy]

What if you’re running in conduit, say to a garage or barn?

[@jeffgreen7897]

SEU Cable does not have a flame retardant covering. Therefore it cannot be used indoors. SER cable has a flame retardant covering and also is what location rated

[@gregorylyon1004]

Thank you for pointing that out

[@hobomobile1646]

Q: Please respond anyone who KNOWS: my shed will require I drive grounding rods, so I will have TWO grounding wires entering the sub panel, one from the SER conduit and one from the grounding rods. WHERE to they land? I assume I install a ground bus bar and they BOTH land there. (Of course, I am NOT bonding anything to the neutral.) Thanks

[@midix496]

Hello and thank you for posting the video. Quick question just to clarify: The neutral and ground, are bonded at the main panel, but separated at the subpanel. As you add breakers in the subpanel, the neutral wires will go to the neutral buss bar and the grounds to the ground buss bar? Thank you, again!

[@PPyle]

Yes, in a Subpanel the Neutrals have to stay on the Neutral buss bar and the Grounds must stay on the Ground Buss bar.

[@heroknaderi]

Very informative. Oh and one thing I’m curious about is using ser vs thhn which is cheaper. I have thhn already purchased and was thinking about using it in conduit. I appreciate it 🤩

[@jamesglasscameraobscura1148]

Without being there, I can't offer specifics, but I can share a few general points. And, don't forget to just ask your local building inspector--I do all the time when I'm uncertain about something. I'd rather ask before the inspection than fail the inspection! OK, yes, you can run wire inside of conduit, but whether you go cable or wire/conduit depends on many factors. Usually wire in conduit is more expensive because the conduit is more expensive, but there are time (industrial applications, for one example) where the wire needs greater protection. The basic idea here is double insulation. Whether in cable form (insulated wires wrapped in a second layer of insulation) or insulated wires in a conduit, the idea here is there are two layers of protection before you get to the copper or alloy. All the letters you see describing wire tell you where you can use it (for example USE is Underground Service Entrance). You can find charts online that tell you location and temperature ratings for various applications. And, remember, you can always call your local building inspector to make sure you have the right wire in the right place. But, check out conduit costs. You'll be surprised at how expensive conduit is. There are three kinds: PVC, EMT and rigid. The last two are are metal. EMT is thin wall metal and EMT is basically like black water pipe. Finally, the gauge of the wire is vitally important! Insulation issues aside, the wire has to be thick enough for the job and it has to have the right size circuit protection. So, make sure you have ample size conductors for your circuit.

[@davidb.5544]

@@jamesglasscameraobscura1148 There is also UL Listed HDPE that come in large rolls with the same ratings as the others. Recently got 1000 ft roll of 2" HDPE SDR 11 for around $0.93/ft. with no pull tape and am using it for burial to a detached garage..

[@LucifersDeathSquad]

Ser is WAY , WAY cheaper than copper

[@KevinCoop1]

@@davidb.5544 You say this pipe is UL listed. What use is it listed for? I’ve never in my life seen pressure rated pipe also called conduit or tubing. Teach me a new one.

[@EightCounts]

Maybe i misheard you, but did you say that was a 20 amp subpanel?

[@creekwalker62]

Thanks for sharing. 👍

[@ryanmacewen511]

Hi James. Great video. I'm planning on using a Homeline 40 space breaker panel in my attached garage as a sub panel. Adding a 100A breaker to main panel, using 2-2-2-4, and using the 200A breaker in 40 space box as disconnect, and removing bonding screw. I have a question on interior routing of the SER cable inside the structure. The attached garage was an addition. All of the 2x4 framing of garage is currently exposed, including the 2x6 bottom truss cords (ceiling). Are there requirements for the SER cable to be exposed, or visible? Can it it just lay clipped to center of a stud or bay? Just beginning my search on information on this, and I don't see any references to this yet. I only see terminations in or at panels.

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

You should start with a call to your local inspector and ask the following: 1. Can you use the 200 Amp panel 2. Do you need to derate to 90 amps? See attached link. 3. I'd put the ser in the wall and secure to studs every 4' and 8" from panel. Remember protection plates where needed. diy.stackexchange.com/questions/221869/running-ser-cable-from-200amp-main-to-100-amp-sub-panel

[@tigeroswald777]

@@JamesGlassJamesGlass @Ryan MacEwen I have a similar question. So the wire doesn't have to be in conduit. But could it be if you wanted to? thanks

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

@@tigeroswald777 Yes, for that application with #6 or greater. See 334.15 and 338.10

[@johndavies2949]

You don't have to have a main breaker unless you want. You should put a label on the panel cover stating what panel is feeding your sub panel and what breaker. Then be sure to label the breaker in the main panel.

[@therealSIRBOOM]

You do (or a main cut off) if the subpanel is in a separate building. Plus ground rods.

[@edkhoshaba170]

Thanks for your info

[@LLCStreetwise]

One other question: The SER will be running through a basement utility room with exposed floor joists. No way to run it in the walls, so the ceiling is it. Is it acceptable to attach it across the joists in a discreet location, or is it better to run through the joists? This is residential, so I don't know if there are any codes.

[@raterus]

You can use staples, or a full wire raceway (preferred). It's really what the inspector will let you get away with. You do NOT want to run SER cable through holes in joists, it's going to be a bear to pull and you'll probably end up damaging it.

[@petersidhu8721]

if you had a sub panel going to a shed in the backyard. i know that you will need add ground rods in the ground and connect the a wire to the rods and the ground bar. but what happens to the ground line coming from the main panel. do you attach it to the ground bar or do you terminate it?

[@raterus]

Yes you ground it all together. You're just providing the quickest, least resistant way to get that electricity into the ground. You still don't bond neutral to ground in that subpanel though!

[@jpberiault8428]

I HAVE A 100 AMP SIEMENS PANEL (seq24100sm) THAT I WILL USE AS A SUBPANEL in my shed, IT HAS A 100 AMP MAIN BREAKER but i not see any lug plate or connections for hot, neutral or ground, do i need to buy a separate lug kit ? what size wire where would i connect the cable on the main panel and what size amps , i will probably install a 40 amp service in the subpanel . The cable will be run underground in a pvc conduit to a max length of 50 feet !

[@johndavies2949]

And your back feeding a 2 pole breaker to serve as your main disconnect for that panel but you do not have it bolted in .

[@johndavies2949]

408.36(d)

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

No, I'm not. This is an unbonded panel with a main disconnect because it's so far from the panel that feeds it.

[@johndavies2949]

You are back feeding your main breaker. Were you able to secure it with a special screw or other attachment device?

[@raterus]

There is no backfeeding here, the subpanel simply doesn't have main lugs, so he's bringing in power through the breaker.

[@joeamato3936]

Question. When you say “every” sub panel gets SER I’m kind of confused. Would it not be legal to run flame resistant individual conductors to a sub panel in a detached building so long as the rules for conduit/direct burial are followed? I ask because every SER cable I have seen says it’s not made for underground use, inside conduit or direct bury. Can you clarify?

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

Yes, sorry I was not clear I was talking interior. You can use USE or individual cables in conduit, etc. The thrust here is subpanels are not bonded and must have 4 cables.

[@joeamato3936]

@@JamesGlassJamesGlass Noce okay. There’s so many different types of wire and conditions

[@josephgarcia676]

But anyway, I can’t stress enough in the new panel or the new addition was a while back. Those are all region 120 the other panel that was originally there and apparently it has no shut off. Keep that in mind he just has 30 A on the right hand corner, six breakers there I’ll put together, those are not reading all 120 in that box and even on the 20 amp service breakers some of my reading one 2080s 90s so I’m stumped like a chump

[@WiSeNhEiMeR-1369]

Thanks COOP ...

[@Chase_AM]

Your home service is not multiple phases, it is single split phase. Additionally, it’s not going to always be SER. A more accurate statement would be that it is always going to be the appropriate rated 4 wire. SER cannot be used to run to a sub panel in a detached structure or where conduit or burial are required.

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

Yes. I'd use USE cable outside. Your criticism is interesting to me. I never suggested ser would be used outside and this is clearly interior type 1 panels. And there's no talk of delta or wye 3 phase, so I am lost on that. The key takeaway for the diyer adding a panel is make sure it's the right panel, has ser cable, and is unbonded. Thanks though for the additional comments. You're right on all counts.

[@Chase_AM]

@@JamesGlassJamesGlass The title of the video is literally “Subpanels only get SER cable” which is why I made that clarification. That’s a sweeping statement that is correct in the instance posed in the video. You also said in the video that your power was two different phases. The misnomer implied you were discussing single split phases and obviously not 3 phase. It’s a common misconception but also never causes any real harm.

[@denniswildman59]

I came here to say the same

[@chrisdeantonio1498]

The house we moved into has a 30 amp sub panel in the detached garage and it fits the description of what not to do in this video. It only has SE wire coming into it (one hot) and I see the neutral and ground wires are side by side on the two bus bars. Basically the total opposite of what you should do. So I’m left wondering if I need to address this in some way. The incoming wire runs under a concrete patio (in conduit). I’m not an electrician. Any thoughts on what should be done to remediate?

[@Matt-ix6ne]

You only have one phase (120v) doing to the sub panel?

[@u2ooberboober]

Pull the proper conductors. Oversize to number 8 or more if there is potential for voltage drop and if conduit size is appropriately sized.. Make sure bonding screw is not joining ground to neutral in the sub panel.

[@HughMyronM8]

What conductor should be used for overhead service to the meter base and main panel?

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

That's service entrance cable sized to whatever the service is.

[@GainSolarPower]

So are you saying it’s a code violation to use and NM-B wire to feed a subpanel? Or what about if it had conduit and you used thhn/thwn? Where is that in the code? Nice explanation though just wanted to understand.

[@jamesglasscameraobscura1148]

No, it's not a violation. Good point. You can run NM or wire in conduit. I should have noted that. The issue is you can't run SE cable to subpanels--that was my point. There has to be a fourth wire for an unbonded ground.

[@GainSolarPower]

@@jamesglasscameraobscura1148 I got you. We 4 wire to all subpanels. I feed lots of subpanels with Romex for solar backup power systems that only deliver 30 or 50 amps.

[@jeffgreen7897]

You don’t need a main breaker in a sub panel located in the same house as the breaker supplying the power to the subpanel is the overcurrent protection for the wire.The neutral wire is referred to as the grounded conductor and the grounding conductor is used for grounding equipment and devices

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

No on both counts: 1) any subpanel greater than 6 feet from feeder panel must have a disconnect. 2) the grounded conductor is never used for equipment ground. The panel must be unbonded keeping the grounded conductor and ground separate. Only the main panel is bonded.

[@jeffgreen7897]

Not sure what part of the country you live in but you have to have a breaker protecting the conductors to the sub panel located at in the main panel but you can have a main lug panel in the basement or wherever the subpanel is located. We do it all the time in Denver Colorado. I’m a licensed master electrician 38 years experience

[@jeffgreen7897]

I was just letting you know that you state that “ the grounding conductor, the so-called neutral and the ground line are not connected together in sub- panels” If you look in the 2020 NEC you will see that the grounded conductor is the neutral and the grounding conductor is used to bond equipment. The neutral is referred to as the grounded conductor. It is intentionally grounded at the main service. And yes you are correct, you never bond the neutral to the grounding conductor together in a sub-panel.

[@KevinCoop1]

@@JamesGlassJamesGlass Can you please tell us what article of NEC says a sub panel must have a main disconnect if further than 6’ from the main panel.

[@asuarezjd]

@@KevinCoop1 @Jeff Green I thought the same as you, a disconnect is only needed if in a different building (detached garage) and it has more than six breakers. Yet, not if inside the same building/home. I ran more than 60 feet of cable from my distribution panel to a subpanel in the garage, a Square D Homeline of six spaces. And, no need for a disconnect and passed inspection. Moreover, my father was an electrical engineer and I was his helper/slave until I was 22 years old, and I never heard of the 6ft. requirement in NEC. Notice how he bought a huge panel for a subpanel and precisely because of the extra spaces is why he was required to add a disconnect if far from the source. Then, he probably confused the inspector's recommendation with the misconception that it was the distance and not the spaces in the subpanel. He calls the "main panel" requiring to be bonded instead of the "FIRST DISCONNECT". Sometimes the "main" distribution panel is in itself a subpanel, so semantics are important, especially when now code requires a disconnect BEFORE what would have been the "main principal" in the home. The video is good and he truly did his homework but I think he is not a licensed electrician because of the terms he uses. I never read that (6ft or more threshold) requiring a disconnect. Also, is perfectly fine to have a 200AMP breaker in the subpanel as long as the breaker from the "main" panel limits the current to the ampacity of the feeder cables. The breaker in the subpanel is a disconnect for all purposes. So, if the "main" as he calls it has an 80amp breaker it won't matter that the subpanel has a 200amp. His jurisdiction may be different but if we go by NEC then the aforementioned applies. Does not need to be SER, it can be a Romex as long as it has "/3" a ground, say for example a 6/3 Romex (NM-B). Be mindful of the degrees (60,75,90) with ampazity. Example; a 6/3 Romex is good for 55 amps, but the same wire 6/3 is good for 75 amps if in MC with aluminum clad, etc. This is because a THHN is capable of more amps. Check out one of the MASTERS in KZbin electric universe, Benjamin, in the first three minutes of this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpzOh32Pg7GLpZY

[@matthewreigner7398]

How about 3 wires from the main panel if a copper ground wire is run to a ground rod and is also separated from the neutral? That works, correct?

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

No, has to be 4, unbonded. Ground and grounded conductor must be separate.

[@mp-xt2rg]

3 wire works if its a detached building and the wire is running underground in a metal conduit or if its a detached building and the panel is tied to ground through some other means like a plumbing pipe or grounding rod. Then ground and neutral can go nuts and party it up at the same bar.

[@thomasmarable6818]

Nope you are wrong in detached building a ground conductor and an earth ground is required.

[@mp-xt2rg]

@@thomasmarable6818 nope

[@tennesseewebb2651]

@@mp-xt2rg he’s right. You’re wrong

[@mp-xt2rg]

@@tennesseewebb2651 explain

[@thomasmarable6818]

@@mp-xt2rg if it an old system yes you can treat it like you said, but in a new install it can not. You have to have a ground back to the main and a ground rod at the building. In the old install the neutral has to be full size and not smaller then the ungrounded conductors.

[@josephgarcia676]

I’m not sure if this helps but anyway I plugged in my battery charger to one of the outlets that were bad that weren’t working she fried Maia charger spoke him out of it so I’m getting a lot of power to a dead horse sex. Does that make sense?

[@volbster2]

THHN can also be used through the walls and attic but definitely needs conduit. It's much easier to place in conduit (if that's what you are going to do) since each wire is jacketed alone.

[@u2ooberboober]

Good info!

[@loveislife77]

Can a subpanel have BX/AC-90 steel armor as the service entry and have the metallic sheathing work as the self-grounding?

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

Sheathing can't be ground in this case. For circuits the bx can sometimes be used or modern armored cable usually has a green ground wire inside. But panel to panel needs SER cable.

[@loveislife77]

Thanks for your reply. What city/State are you located in?

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

@@loveislife77 Virginia. Fillion Rule state so all AHJ follow state law.

[@benspragge33]

Great video, but please add correction label on the video "grounding conductor = Neutral. Grounded conductor = ground"

[@ahmadhakim7812]

Not necessarily true that Subpanel only gets SER Cable. SER cable is used as an above-ground service entrance cable, a panel feeder, and in branch circuits. The cable is rated at 600 volts and 90°C for use in wet and dry locations. SER cables are LEAD-FREE and RoHS compliant. -SEU cable is primarily used as a panel feeder in multiple-unit dwellings and for branch circuits.

[@daved2023]

Most subpanels I've seen use the main lug style with no main breaker and most main panels I've seen bring power from the top/bottom into a main breaker for the entire panel. But in this video, your bringing your two hots into a 2-pole breaker. Please check my assumption: If I buy a smaller, main lug panel, I can bring my two hots into a 2-pole breaker (same as in this video) and will it energize both sides of the entire panel. Main lug panels are cheaper by far and this is going into a shed. You comment about more that six feet away from the main panel got me thinking that I definitely should have a main cutoff breaker in the shed.

[@jamesglasscameraobscura1148]

Hey, I'm not sure if I understand the question, but I have a few thoughts and I'll take a guess on the question to see if we can flesh it out. 1. always, always, always get a permit 2. make sure the panel being fed is the right load size (you can't feed a 200 amp panel from a 100 panel, example. Look up the chart online to see the biggest subpanel you can have. It's common to feed a 100 amp panel from a 200amp panel 3. For sure on the disconnect! 4. Now, your question: yes, if you buy a panel with a disconnect and you feed line 1 and line 2 (the hots) into that the entire panel will be energized. If you look closely, you'll see every other bar is an ungrounded conductor, so if you put a two pole breaker in, you will get line 1 and line 2 from that breaker (the lines are differently phased so the two 120v lines add up to 240v). The grounded conductor (neutral) will go to its bus bar, and the ground will go to its bus bar, and never shall the two meet.

[@daved2023]

@@jamesglasscameraobscura1148 Thank you, James. You clarified perfectly. Much appreciated!

[@honeybadger4198]

if you use urd cable underground coming from your main panel to an indoor sub panel in a detached garage 150 feet away...I know you can't use urd inside due to it not being firerated ..how would you switch from urd cable to ser cable inside your garage??? I cannot find a video on KZbin of someone actually doing that

[@keithharrington8715]

I hope you got this solved already. You may need a building disconnect on the outside of your building. If so, you can terminate one on the in and a different wire on the out to the panel inside the building or a weather rated box and splices rated for your wire size will allow you to maintain the correct size while switching insulation on the wire. But the first thing is to call and talk to your local inspectors. They might give you a different answer and the code itself allows them to "interpret" the code or completely ignore it.

[@MASH--kn1cw]

So totally off grid electric panel for solar panels...how many solar panels can you hook up to this particular panel?

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

I'm on grid. I looked at putting a 5k system in and even w lower cost Chinese panels the pay back was a decade. The problem is we're in coal country and paying 11 cents a kWh. All panels work w solar-you can go w a grid and solar hook up. Solar generates dc, so an inverter is needed. Some loss is expected so running as much as you can on dc deals w that. There are even fridges that run dc, not just lights. I've never done solar and thought it would be great but the return was so far out I let it go.

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

A few fun facts: --most homes could get by w as little as a 5k system but my research saw people installing 10k or more. -- you could hook whatever you wanted up at a 100amp, 200amp etc panel but you'll need the equipment to invert and connect the to the grid -- meters can run backwards and you can sell power back to the grid. They only buy at wholesale rates now. -- teslas battery wall looks awesome! I would want to store my left overs instead of being forced to just going back to grid power. Or have no power if I was totally off grid.

[@Rico702Vegas]

@@JamesGlassJamesGlass Tesla's wall sucks man. You want a LiFePo battery backup system or another lithium type. It's all in what you need and can afford but solar is rad, just very expensive right now. I can't believe some states outlaw it, no wait, yes I can.

[@carlozamudio7]

Could I run a 200amp sub panel to my attached garage from my main panel 200amp panel? If so , what SER cable size should I use if I would be running thru 1 1/2 Conduit? I would be running cable approx 130 feet.

[@freakfly23]

What the hell are you putting in there that requires 200amps?

[@mannys9130]

@@freakfly23 You don't need to use full capacity... You can put a 100A sub fed from a 200A main and only have a 50A breaker in the sub for a welder. 🤷🏻‍♂️ No problem.

[@betosgarage]

@@freakfly23right 😂😂

[@johndavies2949]

Where is your grounding electrode conductor that is supposed to be connected to your 2 ground rods that are to be no less than 6' apart driven in the ground just outside your panel location.

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

I have three rods > 6' apart at the main panel. 1 rod could be used if verified < 25 ohms, or two rods 6' apart is minimum code. I use three to ensure least resistance.

[@E150GT]

What's the difference if they just feed back to a panel that is bonded ?

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

The path of least resistance is the earth at that point not your house and you. The dirt won't die, so to speak.

[@rickrodriguez659]

Should I purchase copper or aluminum SER CABLE for indoor house 100amp sub panel that is being

[@rickrodriguez659]

Getting power from outside 200amp panel attached to the house . Also where does the bare and neutral wire goes to , on the outside panel since it is bonded? Same neutral bar?

[@jamesglasscameraobscura1148]

Either is fine. Copper costs more but is easier to work with. You can use #4 for copper but have to step up to #2 for alloy for 100 amp. The sub panel is NOT bonded, but you can run an extra ground rod from the UNBONDED ground bus to a 5/8" copper clad 8' ground rod if you want. I would.

[@rickrodriguez659]

@@jamesglasscameraobscura1148 Thanks for the feedback . I’m trying to update my SER CABLE. The original one has only three conductors ( 2 hots 1 bare wire ) which I’m assuming is Neutral. The MAIN panel outside is 200amps connected to meter. The indoor sub panel is 100amps with the 40 circuits. Currently the ground in the sub is a ground bare solid copper cable attached to the copper pipe for the water line. If the new SER CABLE has 4 conductors, where would the bare ground cable go when attaching it the outside main panel since the neutral is going to the neutral bar and the panel is bonded . Does it also go to the same neutral bar as the neutral cable ? in regards to the OUTSIDE panel only. Thank you

[@jamesglasscameraobscura1148]

@@rickrodriguez659 1. I strongly suggest hiring a local licensed electrician to guide you through this, AND not matter what you must have a building permit. 2. The basic answer to your question is the main panel is bonded and all subpanels are unbonded. In modern homes, the main panel is the meter/main disconnect. Inside this panel the neutral and the ground are connected together using proper lugs on the correct bar. This is also where the ground wire #6 or better goes to at least 2 ground rods. You can use just one ground rod if you have it certified 25 ohms or less, but since that costs hundreds of dollars, everyone just uses 2 rods. You can use more than 2 rods. I do. I also use #4 wire for all my grounds. 3. When you get your building permit, you can ask the building inspector these questions and she/he will help. 4. In the old days, the water line was ground. This is problematic for many reasons: it might not be a good enough conductor or with PEX or CPVC repairs it might no longer be a conductor at all. 5. In the subpabel you will find 2 busbars, one for neutral and one for ground. Sometimes the ground bus isn't there and you have to buy it separately, but if you look inside my panel the bus with the green screws is just for the ground wires and it is in no way connected to the neutral wires. The panel is also connected to the ground so the panel is grounded.

[@rickrodriguez659]

Thanks again!

[@Youcanthandleme319]

So they can’t vet UR??? 🤔

[@Scadaboy]

A subpanel is never ever ever bonded? What about when the subpanel is in a separate building, say an Adu, with its own grounding system?

[@mannys9130]

The sub panel is still getting fed from a breaker on the main service panel, even if it's on another building. The power leaves the transformer, enters the meter, enters the main service panel, goes through the breaker, through the feeder, and lands on the subpanel where the additional breakers are placed. You ONLY bond neutral and ground wires and bars at the very first service panel, the first one encountered after the meter.

[@hippo-potamus]

What do you mean ONLY get ser cable? Are you saying that we cant use (3) copper thhn #3 and (1) thhn #5 individual cables? because I think you are wrong.

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

For interior applications. You can also use USE, wire in conduit, etc. The point is subpabels get 4 wires, not 3. Hence ser not se.

[@hippo-potamus]

@@JamesGlassJamesGlass Ah. I see your point now. Thanks.

[@LucifersDeathSquad]

Sub panel being 6ft from the main panel needs a main ? Is that your local code ? Cause thats not in the NEC and never had an inspector ask me to put a main breaker in a sub panel. And what are you talking about a sub panel is always gonna have Ser cable? That's not code or true either. I run subs with conduit and thhn all the time.

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

You can run wire in conduit. SER isn't only game in town. SER not SE is message, and the video discusses why the grounded conductor and ground are separate in an unbonded panel. You could also use USE 4 wire to a shed, but 4 wire cable is crucial. All subpanels are unbonded.

[@thomasmarable6818]

I only had to put a main on separate buildings never in the same myself.

[@LucifersDeathSquad]

@@JamesGlassJamesGlass - You shouldn't be putting out videos teaching something you don't have a full grasp on.

[@couchpotatoe3204]

@@LucifersDeathSquad @JamesGlassJamesGlass I come from the programming, netadmin and telecom fields; can cut code in 13 languages, manage NT and *nix servers and engineer/install a variety of network infrastructures. What I do is pretty hard. Residential electricity isn't hard at all. Derating wire and interpreting code books is about as difficult as it gets in residential, and that's relatively trivial. Yet there's always the likes of yourself chirping-in trying to show everyone how much you know (pedant) about the basics and how much others (who are trying to help people) are clueless, and I find it a little bit funny and a little bit annoying. Please stop it, or at least bring solutions along with your criticisms. I found this man's video to be _very_ helpful; concise information and his main messages were clearly targeted to DIYers: The main gets bonded and never the sub, use ample sized SER cable and select an appropriate sized subpanel. Thanks to James Glass. I love his teaching style.

[@jarrydramos2444]

Do you connect the sub pannel to ground rod

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

You can always add ground rods for any panel, but all sub panels must me unbounded. You can never have too many ground rods.

[@josueespino5532]

Only required if the sub panel goes in a detached building (such as a garage/workshop)

[@thomasmarable6818]

@@JamesGlassJamesGlass I dont agree you can have to many ground rods. Mike Holt has a great video about why. Remember grounds help take care of surges from lighten and spikes.

[@KevinCoop1]

@@JamesGlassJamesGlass Just to be very clear, the purpose of grounding electrodes, including ground rods, in residential electrical systems is for lightning protection and had nothing to do with equipment grounding conductors in feeders or branch circuits.

[@adwendt]

Using 50 spaces for a tiny home? I'm using less than 40 for a moderately sized home with what I thought were a ton of circuits.

[@dangerds1]

First vid I have seen that mentions a disconnect in the subpanel very good idea being far away from the main

[@MASH--kn1cw]

I'm the 1st to comment, 1st to like and probably the 13th one to view your video, I haven't been first in anything since the 5th grade. 😂🤷‍♂️

[@stargazer7644]

“So called neutral”?

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

Officially it is called the grounded conductor.

[@Esnara2085]

Or you could be a professional and pipe it and pull THHN.

[@johndavies2949]

See nec 408.36(d )

[@Stevenyoung100]

not exactly correct. good video tho

[@zachj6867]

Saying they ONLY take SER is just false information. Be better.

[@gordiecumming]

Great video!!! Can you run SER cable outside from the main panel, in garage, to a sub-panel on a detached office? Or does it need to be in a conduit of some sort? Or totally different cable?

[@JamesGlassJamesGlass]

Every wire (wires are inside cables) needs 2 layers of protection (w some exceptions for underground burial or overhead service) so either all insulated wires are bundled in a cable or individual wires are run inside a conduit. Where it's at determines if you use ser cable or conduit (and which type of conduit: pvc, emt, or rigid). Yes, you can run ser wherever although the if you run long distances you have to increase wire size. Your local electrician or building inspector can help.

[@javiergiraldez1647]

For the shed, detached garage, etc, by NEC and building codes 2020, it requires a raceway underground, 18 inches deep, with THHN 12,10,8,6,4,3 AWG copper or aluminum depending on the load at the detached building. SER cable is designed for interior only installations the outdoor version for SER is the UF cable, but that one didn’t goes up to all sizes of wire. Electrical contractor and Inspector here, so you can ask any question

[@gordiecumming]

@@javiergiraldez1647 Yeah that is what I found out from our city inspector. The lead inspector here wanted me to use THWN in the underground conduit. For mine I used #4 copper. All worked out great. I got it installed, inspected and passed. Now I have a nice detached office for my wife to work in. Thanks for getting back to me.