Subwoofer Upgrade/Install A90 MKV Supra - 12" Slim Sub For More Audio Bass

[@slowvr30]

I’m about to get this same subwoofer how do you like it? Also, the wiring I have is 8 gauge wire and I know the harness that connects into the subwoofer is smaller gauge wire. I was wondering did you just solder the power/negative wire to the subwoofer harness? I am worried that connecting a bigger 8 gauge wire to the smaller wires on the harness can be some fire hazard

[@brprintshop]

Nice Video.. Did you have any problems with loud humming sounds related to the Active Noise Cancellation (ANC)? also the Active Sound Design deactivation? I

[@richie.grainger]

I did and I turned it all off with binmercode. Now it's perfect.

[@Jin180sx]

Hi Great video. Thank you for sharing. So that +Purple/Yellow -Green/black +White/Black -Blue/Black would only give out low frequency for woofers right? I am thinking to tap in to cables like you did for an amp to run a pair of 6x9 and 12 inch Sub. I assume I should use full range signals from rear speakers behind seat right ( not woofer signals in my case) ?

[@richie.grainger]

The signals I tapped into were post-oem-amp. So the factory amp has already made it's changes. You could tap from the same area. Just make sure it's the wiring going to the amp (not from the amp like I did). Obviously you will still get head unit alterations (unsure what, if anything, BMW/Toyota did with headunit output), but that would be your most untouched signals. So yep - I'd do what your plan is :)

[@nqobilemahlaba2230]

Good day everyone.. I just saw the video and I noticed that you already made the mod for releasing the air pressure from the original jbl subwoofers (honestly that should have been done by Toyota). Is it worth adding an additional subwoofer so 3 are constantly banging or did you cancel the stock JBLs? Please forgive my question

[@richie.grainger]

I would install the 12" again, if I had to start again. The stock subs don't sound like subs at all. Admittedly, my 12" is on about 25%, because I like my bass to be where it should be.

[@cameronhitch6462]

Maybe I’m just slow but I don’t understand how you’re jumping the wires. I’m adding a skar sub and amp and I’m not sure how to run the speaker wire (What color wires to connect and jump) if that makes any sense

[@julianrozowsky3243]

I want to run a skar sub and amp lmk how it goes and send videos and pics if you can. I have a 21 left hand drive supra

[@ezahmed1]

So you didn’t use an amp?

[@richie.grainger]

This is a powered sub. So yeh, there is an amp inside the box. That's why it needed a power, ground and remote wire. Speakers without an amp do not need those wires.

[@ezahmed1]

@@richie.grainger can you tell me why couldn’t you take the line out from the oem subs

[@richie.grainger]

@@ezahmed1 - hey man, we did take the line-out from the OEM subs. We took it from the side (same wires), which has very easy access, rather than removing the subs and taking from there (same process, but more removing). Rather than welding, if that's too hard, you could use T Clamps for your wires. The install would be sooo much quicker and easier (But I prefer welds). Here is a T Clamp: m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61KiQ4aoWIL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_.jpg

[@ezahmed1]

I’m getting exhaust noises from the woofer

[@richie.grainger]

Yeh man, you need Bimmercode (or a friend with it) to turn off Active Sound Design.

[@PATPAT-fp5oz]

Why not just replace and upgrade the two existing factory subs.. it would make the install look a lot cleaner instead of adding a third sub box that is now adding more weight and taking up all the space?

[@richie.grainger]

Definitely valid points. The sound of a 12" sub has a very different sound to a 10" subwoofer. For me - I'm not fussed on weight/space - I don't race the Supra and I have a dual-cab when I need space. But for someone who is happy with 10"s would certainly be happy to use the factory boxes.