Summer maintenance - Wooden boat restoration - Boat Refit - Travels With Geordie

[@freshlysquosen]

You have the most scenic workshop on youtube. Bonus karma points for vacuuming the sawdust off of the dock.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Heh, thanks!

[@blueovalracing1582]

Peter my friend an absolute terrific video I enjoyed thank you

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@duffjolly4428]

Something you don't see often is the "real" part of boating, the dreaded "maintenance". Good on you for sharing this with us. Cheers Peter

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Heh, oh it's gonna get real!

[@johnvititoe6051]

I only recently found your “Travels with Geordie” series and am a big fan. So, I’m gonna try to watch all your blogs from #1. Wish me luck!

[@todddunn945]

Peter, this video really strikes a chord with me since I am currently dealing with a deck leak on my 1936 raised deck cruiser. Here is the playlist for the 10 videos I have made so far documenting the leak repair. Note, this entire repair is being done at the marina without shore power. kzbin.info/aero/PLMj5-rgz7PdogDVLPN1wT1cIBMipTQRe_

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Wow, another marathon effort Todd. I see a similar project coming in my aft cabin.

[@todddunn945]

@@TravelsWithGeordie As is normal for a wooden boat project it turned into a much bigger project that I expected when I started. Fortunately, all I have left to do is replace 22" of toe rail apply a final coat of paint and then paint the toe rail.

[@scottdowney4318]

That Capt Tolleys stuff looks exactly like ZEP acrylic floor finish. Has that bluish white look, and dries clear.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Maybe the same stuff!

[@danielswords5013]

Scott Downey Agree 100%! I use the Zep and believe that over time it is decreasing to leaks along my toerail.

[@PaulHarold]

So much potential for “mission creep” on this project. That cabin top tells me it needs a complete redo!!

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Oh Jeez yes!, but I need to resist, can't possibly do that here at the marina or within my current budget. Must make do for a while longer.

[@hansfleur6956]

hai peter my name is hans i live in Amsterdan i have restored many classic boats have you ever heard of coelan that is a rubbery paint i seal there teak decks with guaranteed water closed it is also anti-slip beautiful stuff i hope you can use it on your beautiful boat

[@sonnybrooks264]

Cheers!🍺🙂

[@jamesmosley1549]

Like your self I’m renovating an old boat (96 years old). 99% of my time spent on the boat is renovating. I’m hoping once I get it to a decent standard it won’t be as much hard work. just sort issues as and when these jobs need doing. Love these videos

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Thanks, it's a lot of work but so satisfying.

[@scottdowney4318]

On my 37 foot wooden Egg Harbor, I used a lot of the Loctite PL caulks and glues. The black loctite PL roof and flashing is excellent for sealing windows and cracks, and it can actually be sanded, but it is tough to sand and need to wait till a full cure about 7 days. To make it easier to sand and even tougher, mix it with 1/32 milled fiberglass fibers at about 30% fibers and 70% black polyurethane caulk. It is such good stuff. I coated the bottom of the boat on a haulout in 2014, and it is still in great shape. My bottom is sealed up tight, no leaking and no swelling needed. All the planks were caulked with PL premium polyurethane construction adhesive (the tan colored stuff) mixed with some sawdust. The PL polyurethane premium construction adhesive when mixed with sawdust cures in thick layers, and is a great gap filler. Can also flex just a tiny bit when wood moves, so not rock hard like an epoxy. It has never come out of my underwater seams. Anywhere I had gaps between wood, I used it It swells up and that means no water can sit between wood pieces to cause rot. It can also be stained or painted. You can put a plastic cereal bag over top to press it down and it wont stick to the plastic. It has made the entire hull really solid. If you use it, clean the seams out really good. I have even run a circular saw bladed between planks and filled with the mix. See I had all my bottom planks off in 2006 ad redid many frames, so all my seams were clean. When I caulked with it, the hull was dry and it was hot, so the planks had opened up. But never did anything swell up and break after going back into the water. Just imagine having your bottom like the tire on your car, that is what it is like. Here is an album of me doing all sorts of hull work in 2014. I highly recommend the black PL, it is really super tough but yields to movement. Forward going back 10 feet, I coated with some black PL mixed with milled fibers, but further back from that was just black PL. I simply smeared it on the hull with a 6" putty knife, like cake frosting. Using either way its all good, but I like it better with the added milled fibers. The coating is about 1/8" thick. My original thoughts were to strengthen the black PL with milled fibers on the forward hull in case I hit something underwater. For the above waterline bow hood ends, I cleaned out all seams and filled with black PL. For all above water seams, I dug out all the hard failing cracking linseed oil white putty, repaired plank edges, painted seams with Zinsser bulls eye 123 primer. then caulked with DAP dynaflex 230 white caulk. It worked great. goo.gl/photos/Y876jwe1jceTp9Zz6 the yellow coating is Sanitred Permaflex, and while it was ok, its pricey and you got to mix it, and the black PL polyurethane is just so much easier to use and works great.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Wow, thanks for the extensive report, good stuff there. PL polyurethane is splendid stuff. Went through your photos, yikes what a ton of work! Well done.

[@christopherpeterson1400]

I have used epoxy 5:1 with hardener, thickened with cabasil, then thinned back with up to 30% denatured alcohol to pre soak in for waterleaks.. cabasil finds and fills internal cracks , epoxy glosses and seals cabasil,, several over coats may be required

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

I considered this approach, using CPES, clear penetrating epoxy sealer, but it dries too hard and just cracks again in short order.

[@patrickjernigan1025]

Hi Peter hope you know when you finely rebuild your windshield bed your glass in with butal tape!!! Love the boat don't make it a hole in the water you dump money into!!!

[@webbtrekker534]

Had a major cabin rebuild on a 40's vintage ELCO, (don't remember the length 55+ feet?), that included the front windshield. Got some really nice Honduras for it. What a pain in the posterior to build. The biggest problem though was getting the 9 inch brass screws needed to put it all back together. Never fiddled so much with fitting joints in my life. All compound. Looking forward to seeing your rebuild. Nice lamps. Love stuff like that.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Oh God yes it would be a miserable bit of work. Something to look forward too!

[@averagemachinist2927]

I like Sika 291 as well. I worked for a marine window and door manufacturer some years ago and we used it extensively, from bedding compound to toe beads. If you ever replace the windows, I would look into aluminum framed windows. You can trim them out with teak, and they are very water tight. If they are built correctly they should never leak. Diamond Sea Glaze makes them custom and they are located close to you.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Thanks!, I checked them out, same windows that I have but now aluminium. I'll definitely go there when the time comes.

[@davidj837]

We used epoxy mixed with sawdust and mahogany stain to fix the cracks in the Iroko on our Bourne 35 which has worked great , we also had a problem with water leaking in between the cabin side and the deck so have fitted a larger can't rail round the out side between the deck and the cabin side bedded with Sikoflex sealant, luckily we have hopper windows so no sealing or leaking problems

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

I love those hopper windows you have in the UK!

[@Bikerbob59]

Love old brass lights.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Aren't they gorgeous!

[@patrickjernigan1025]

Ok Peter I'm going to share this point you can use epoxy in conjunction with fiberglass cloth doesn't have to be polystyrene or polyvinyl standard Bondo is porous there for useless on your boat polyvinyl chloride sealers will be waterproof

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Great points, thanks again Patrick!

[@denniscollins2032]

You might try watered down Titebond III (3 is water proof the others are not) only enough water to thin it. Thin it too much and it might not turn into hardened glue. There is a glue called Roo Glue that is better for wood to plastic (wood finish would be plastic) again don't water it too much. I have suspicions that is what Capt Tolly's is, but don't want to rain on his parade. All of this is for temporary fixes right?

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Yes, temporary, yes!

[@backtothewestcoast7392]

True Teak Oil by Island Teak found locally out of Qualicum here on Vancouver island! Also has a tung butter which I have not tried yet.

[@backtothewestcoast7392]

Fibreglass or canvas over wood? My 1970 Chris Craft has painted canvas over a lot of areas...? Not a fan going all back to wood!

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

I use it regularly, it's basically tung oil. The butter is good too.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Painted canvas is the traditional approach, many have been updated to fiberglass. unsheathed wood won't last very long.

[@darrylmcleman6456]

Hello Peter.I referred you to Dangar Marine videos when I saw the bananas on board.Dangar Stu like you also has a Land Rover and a dog that looks like Geordie.A lot of his vids would be of interest to you. Watching with interest from Sooke B.C. I was born and raised in Victoria.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Thanks again Darryl, I check out Danger Marine now and then.

[@mikeg3757]

your Captain Tolly's sealant is the same as lee valley chair doctor . love your vids

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Very likely. Thanks

[@poche660]

Are you familiar with Sani-Tred? If you have not you may want it in your war chest. Tomorrow I am beginning the steps to apply it to my deck but it might be what you want on your cabin tops. Thanks for the Captain Tolleys tip.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Hmmm, might have to look into that.

[@poche660]

@@TravelsWithGeordie Don't bother. I finished my project with this crap and highly do not recommend SaniTred. What a nightmare.

[@mandmmilling3716]

I just discovered your channel. I was looking for info on wood boat maintenance and repair because I am considering buying a 1978 halverson framed and planked with mahogany. I have worked on the production end of lumber production in the pacific nw for a large portion of my life. I actually own 2 portable sawmills and specialized in custom milling for woodworkers. The thought of combining wood working and the new cruising life I am going to start now that I am retired really appeals to me. Is there anything I should look for that was a chronic problem with the halversons?

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

I can't say I know anything about them. Try the Wooden Boat Forum.

[@yottaforce]

Tinned wires works really bad with screw terminals. Tin is one of these metals that slowly creeps when a sufficient force is applied. After some time the force from the screw will reduce due to deformation of the wire and you'll end up with a bad connection.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Good point, a good reason to avoid

[@Twelvestonestacking]

Goodonyas!

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Thanks Scott

[@milt7348]

Incredibly fiddly and time consuming but well worth it at the next rain. Scratch Geordie's ear for me, see you next week.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Will do Milt, see you too!

[@CullenCraft]

I love seeing the "boring" stuff! I have a skil saw brand router and need to get a table for it eventually. Do you like the one you have?

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

I don't like it much, but it's the best I could get in a hurry and reasonably cheap. The top and fence are OK, but the base is rubbish.

[@MrCrabbing]

Ha Ha that has the Henry Westons cider beaten at only 7.8%

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Hah, that was strong bloody beer!

[@Arnaud58]

At 1:12 you are pointing at a leak. The current leaking might be bigger at a separation, a bit higher up the deck as to bee seen in ep. #67 at 4:53. I expect it to be solved, but better safe than sorry!

[@patrickjernigan1025]

The reason I say this is I was a trained laminator finisher for Pacific rim yachts in Hoquiam Washington love to come work on your boat for you

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Gosh, thanks Patrick, that's very kind. Boat work needs to be back burnered for a bit but I'll be back at it soon!

[@MidnightAmratha]

Toss an invite to mads from sail life next time he's in the u.s. Visiting his gf and ask for his help in fiberglassing those corners, he does a nice job and would most likely enjoy a good ipa.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Heh, I'd love to, I can't imagine he would be at all interested in extra fiberglass work. But I did think of him when I imagined redoing the whole deck.

[@andrewreale612]

hard to keep the water out peter, sometimes I feel covering natural wood with plastic or glass fiber products does more damage than good, I wonder would it be possible to work in some kind of visor at the front of the roof over the wheelhouse windscreen seems the glass fiber running into the timber is a moisture trap... wonder how hard it would be to design a replacement wheelhouse and build it off site...

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

It is hard, but if done properly I think fiberglass can work well. I don't think a visor would help once the sea spray gets flying.

[@bagwan98]

Sir: I hope you know about 3M 5200? I use it to bed through hull fittings and anyplace I wish to deny water intrusion.You can smooth it before it sets with your fingers.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Thanks Dan, yes, I know it. It's generally looked on poorly in the wooden boat world. Too permanent.

[@mangore623]

FYI, Marine debond makes short work of 5200. I’ve easily replaced/repaired what were previously considered to be “permanent” deck/hull fittings with debond.

[@davidboultinghouse3332]

Nails on chalkboard sound lol

[@rgbent4359]

Great show as always Peter. What's the brand of the wipe on poly you're using and where you purchasing? I'm up island in Nanaimo so hopefully can find it here. I'm installing the new interior wall panels on my CC and need to protect the backside. I'd like to share some pics of her but can't in the public comments. Thanks! Rob

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Hi Rob, thanks. I use the Minwax wipe on poly. Should be available just about everywhere. A batter choice for a basic sealer might just be regular polyurethane. finish. the wipe on is very thin.

[@schmeat2717]

What did this old wood boat look like without the modern fiberglass on it? Consider going back to original?

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

It originally had painted canvas, it would look pretty much the same.

[@ckm-mkc]

You should check out the Boat Works Today YT channel - he's been showing off using Alexseal to resurface fiberglass and it seems to work great.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Thanks great idea!

[@trolling4dollars816]

Just wondering, how many tools have you lost overboard?

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Amazingly none so far. I've learned not to put stuff in shirt pockets!

[@rosagutierres8025]

Peter wen you make program instaling stering

[@samcgill]

I always wondered who's job it was to vacuum the jetty.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

He who soils it....

[@barrykarow906]

How does Capt. Talley’s differ from Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) besides the smell?

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Oh, totally different stuff. it's pretty simple stuff I suspect, probably acrylic. CPES might have been a better choice here but it dries hard and more likely to crack and leak again.

[@karibakid]

how much for a bottle of beer? i live in Vung Tau Vietnam my beers cost around 1-2 $ us really enjoy your videos .ex Merchant marine

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Those bombers go for about $7 apiece.

[@karibakid]

many thanks go well@@TravelsWithGeordie

[@johnbolongo9978]

Im scared Peter.......with all the repairs this work stuff is going to cut into drinking a nice cold brewskie....aye.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Heh, I can always make time!

[@todddunn945]

I was thinking about all your cabin house leaks. I had similar issues 5 years ago. This is how I dealt with those issues. This might be a little extreme for your case though. Cheers, Todd kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4Srh4xjqtmhm7M

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Yikes, Todd, Geez I hope not! Maybe just the windshield and sheathing in time.

[@captsirl]

That boat should of never been fiber glassed over the house and decks. She flexes too much. She needs a system we call poor mans fiberglass. Basically its wood glues and heavy cotton fabric doped down to the topsides. then the half round wood molding was to hold down the the fabric. As a clean edge to end the fabric under. As far as the windows. Dolphinite natural bedding compound. It never hardens and stays flexible. Because the house moves the windows will always be a problem. Especial trying to use modern sealants. She is old . She needs old fashion things.

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

That's good advice, I can't do anything major just yet though.

[@captsirl]

@@TravelsWithGeordie I hear ya. You will laugh at how cheep it is to do.

[@SailingWithVampires]

First!

[@TravelsWithGeordie]

Well done!