Super73 Z1 48V Upgrade Tutorial | RunPlayBack

[@therandomvlogs]

Finally we have some custom Z1 content, mainly your DIY’s. Much needed in this community. Thanks for doing this!

[@RunPlayBack]

Thanks brother! I'm always happy to help! We're building up a massive Z1 community right now!

[@trevororr5494]

Couldn’t agree more. Thanks for doing this. Do you have a video for the seat upgrade?

[@RunPlayBack]

Trevor Orr yup I'm working on that now!

[@xJ3YQx]

I just wanted to drop a thanks, I finally did this mod after my Super73 battery took a crap ( confirmed that it had dead cells). When I contacted Super73 they wanted to charge me $600!!! After just staring at my bike for a couple of months of just staring at my useless bike I bite the bullet and started this upgrade. I had a few hiccups but It's now running awesome!!

[@RunPlayBack]

Glad to hear! Enjoy the ride! 👍

[@RaphaelValencia-tw4nk]

I need your help to finish my install. Nowhere in the video does it show how to connect the display to the controller. No plugs match to what is left available. I’m all Ready to go so PLEASE reach out. 🙏🏻👊🏻

[@chilluminare]

Super73 should take notes and make this Z2 version. Thx for posting.

[@RunPlayBack]

I agree!

[@YaTuChavez]

This has got to be the absolute best z1 out there!

[@RunPlayBack]

Thank you!

[@vanmasterflash7153]

Great mod, It's been working great for over a year no issues. Motor seems to handle it well. Yours is much cleaner!!! Great video

[@RunPlayBack]

Very cool! Same controller? Have you noticed any overheating issues?

[@noobygrinchz]

@@RunPlayBack it’s overheating? Which lcd did u choose lcd 8?

[@RunPlayBack]

@@noobygrinchz yeah LCD 8 color version

[@brandonfithian719]

@@RunPlayBack can you use the stock thumb throttle with this set up? Having some trouble adapting to this controller.

[@thebrotherhood7043]

@@brandonfithian719 did you figure it out ?

[@join_the_ride_nyc]

I tried the speed hack by cutting the white wire like some youtube video suggested and it fried my controller. Use my multimeter to check the controller and found out by cutting the white cable, five mosfets inside the controller are blown. So I decided to fix the bike myself and tried this upgrade shown by Rick. It took a couple of weeks to get all the parts in while my Z1 sit in the living room sadly, staring at me. When all the parts finally arrived, I went to work and lo and behold, the Z1 is repaired with new LED monitor, new throttle that's very responsive, and new controller. The one thing I did not do is swap the battery because the battery I purchased from China is too long to fit inside the seat. Now my bike runs normal again. I achieved 20 mph with the stock battery. I am going to add a second battery, the one that did not fit, into a new housing and use power switcher to switch one battery to another. That way, I have two batteries on my Z1 when I need to take an extended trip. This new controller is able to automatically detect the Volt on the battery and adjust itself. Thanks Rick for sharing this very valuable video with the community. I replayed this video probably 10 times while going step by step process of fixing my Z1.

[@RunPlayBack]

That's awesome..glad this video is still helpful! The Z1 is a classic that has the best variety of mods out there! Enjoy your ride!

[@mr.crispy8932]

Dude I did the same thing and idk what to do. Is there any easier ways to do it and just keep the same power? Like maybe a plug and play

[@join_the_ride_nyc]

@@mr.crispy8932 Did you fried the controller? if you did, you need to either replace the controller or overhaul the set up but keep the original battery like I did.

[@mr.crispy8932]

@@join_the_ride_nycHey I bought a new controller for the bike and we soldered the wires to the new controller and the connectors and it won’t turn on

[@mr.crispy8932]

@@join_the_ride_nycthe last two wires are different colors from the original so it’s confusing

[@Napzfr]

just did this exact controller swap but i kept the 36v battery and it works great. However the battery indicator doesn’t seem to be accurate. I was wondering if i’d have to configure my settings differently if anyone can help out.

[@bulletproof4716]

Just did the his 48v upgrade and my z1 is scary fast and torque great

[@RunPlayBack]

Nice! Enjoy the ride!!

[@michaelarcangel5862]

Which throttle did you end up using? The linked one in the description is unavailable on amazon now.

[@RunPlayBack]

@@michaelarcangel5862 This seems to be the same one: amzn.to/3lO0ARA

[@michaelarcangel5862]

@@RunPlayBack Quick reply! Thanks, just need to find the battery.

[@RunPlayBack]

@@michaelarcangel5862 hit up Brick Lithium on Facebook or Instagram

[@steveflannery1270]

This is super helpful!!! Very detailed and at the right pace. Very easy as long as you have some basic electrical skill. Thanks for taking the effort to making such a high quality video.

[@RunPlayBack]

No problem, I'm happy to help! Yup it is a pretty straightforward project with some basic DIY skills. Like a good weekend project :)

[@steveflannery1270]

RunPlayBack damn. I just spent more money to buy the battery and controller! I don’t need/want more speed, but the range would be awesome. Can’t wait to start the project when the parts come in.

[@RunPlayBack]

@@steveflannery1270 Nice! Definitely feels like a whole new bike. Let me know if you have any questions when you start your build. I'm happy to help!

[@ImaginaryFilm]

just did my swap on the zg (EU version) and it works perfect tutorial helped very much

[@RunPlayBack]

Awesome, always happy to help!

[@Pdmakesenc]

Which I would have looked at this before cutting my Z1 up and going for it lmao!! Great video!!! My mod keeps shutting down it cuts off and my motor is like struggling to keep the throttle going

[@RunPlayBack]

Hey Pablo! Oh no, that doesn't sound good. Sounds like a controller issue? Might have to be replaced.

[@Pdmakesenc]

@@RunPlayBack not sure yet, it was acting up when I'd switch the mode to 4-5 on the LCD monitor. (I didn't get the color screen) it would work sometimes 1-3.. going to look into that more. Hoping it's not the controller, but you could be right.

[@dinoscottgrindle5384]

RIC...on the controller I installed, the wires are the same as your tutorial. The install went great,.. but now. I bought a bigger one ( sine savaton 1000 to 2000 watt 45 amp- universal voltage. 36 volt to 72 volt). It's missing the white wire on it's hall sensor grouping. Someone on Facebook told me that missing white wire isn't needed because it's for temperature semsing.

[@RunPlayBack]

yeah that should be fine then, you can leave the white wire alone

[@godfatherofdrums]

Awesome video the community is forever in debt to you! 🤙🏼

[@RunPlayBack]

Thanks, I'm always happy to help and share especially when it comes to DIY!

[@phoenixrson6374]

is there a new link for the battery? I can't find the one in the video using the link in the description, also can a 36volt motor/hub handle the 48-volt battery?

[@kevo212]

awesome vid Rik! Lot of work to do this. Can’t wait to see the performance video, this would be a great project for my Z, thanks for the indepth step by step video

[@RunPlayBack]

Thanks bro! Yup lots of work but easy enough to knock out in a weekend with the right tools. Hit me up if you decide to do it, I think you'd love it to be honest. It's like a totally different feeling now.

[@kevo212]

@@RunPlayBack For sure! thanks, I'm already looking at your parts list haha. I know I want to do this, just need your videos for inspiration

[@bricklithium6865]

Going to do my conversion tonight without having to research what needs to be done. I am forever grateful for this tutorial, thanks again brother!

[@RunPlayBack]

Thanks Frank enjoy your ride! 😀

[@RayCUnderwood]

The brick lithium site is offline. Is there another option you are using for the battery replacement?

[@shanefulmer5607]

Wat would I need to hinge me seat up like yours I'm just not ready for upholstery I'm more wondering how the hinge attached to the battery box

[@RunPlayBack]

Just add a hinge at the back. You can get a hinge at your local hardware store. You can see it more clearly at 25:53 marker if you change the playback speed to 0.5

[@ryanremigio8527]

Solid Tutorial bro! I don't have a super73 I do have a Hurley Mini Swell that comes stock with a 48v battery and 500watt hub that goes a max speed of 20mph. My question is if I was to remove my stock control panel and add this LCD Screen to my bike would I be able to go past the 20mph?

[@RunPlayBack]

Thanks! So I'm not 100% sure that would work as the stock controller might have it limited to 20mph through the hardware. I think your best bet is to replace both the controller and LED display and figure out a way to rig the controller to the bike and your stock 48v battery to the new controller.

[@ryanremigio8527]

@@RunPlayBack thanks bro. I’ll probably check it out one day

[@bricklithium6865]

Awesome videos! The link for speed controller/lcd is no longer available. Do you have another? I’d rather purchase the right gear the first time 😜

[@bricklithium6865]

Found it, or at least 1 very similar: HALLOMOTOR 35A 36V 48V 1000W 1200W Brushless Ebike Controller DC Sine Wave Silver 35A Regenerative Reverse Function + KT LCD8H Color Matrix Display Meter Control Panel www.amazon.com/dp/B07M5R261X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_fGy7FbQ0AGFSQ

[@BigKidsOfficial]

Awesome to see some DIY content! I subbed to you in your esk8 days. Love the look and feel of the channel!

[@RunPlayBack]

Hey brother! Yup I remember! I pretty much left the ESK8 scene after that whole Carvon fiasco and got more into ebikes. I really haven't done a DIY project like this since those days so it was fun to break out the soldering kit again. Hope you are well!

[@voidofthings3041]

I have a z1 i have hardly touched since 2022 and want to know if this upgrade is still the best option in 2024

[@Maverik36]

Good Job! I'm thinking about taking the plunge. I wanted to leave it at 36v though. Waiting on your test vid

[@RunPlayBack]

Yup I'm gathering up that footage this week. :)

[@trevororr5494]

Does the 48v hurt the hub motor at all?

[@RunPlayBack]

Trevor Orr not that I noticed. I believe it's the same motor on the S1 500w nominal, 1000w peak. So it's really just unlocking a little more power from the motor with these upgrades.

[@charlesfowles4277]

Hi there great video, would all these components work on the ZG by any chance?

[@RunPlayBack]

Yes it would!

[@codyrowe2875]

Hi man was wondering if you could provide a diagram of what goes where? As in which wire you used for the throttle. Plugged mine up and the LCD is good to go but it's not getting throttle. Thanks a lot for your help!

[@RunPlayBack]

Make sure the 3 wires on the throttle wires are matching the 3 wires on the throttle input of the stock controller. Should be black/black / red/red and then whatever 3rd color to 3rd color.

[@thatguyandrew7631]

Maybe I missed it, but what is the T-plug to XT60 Adapter for? Love the content and informative guide. Looking to do this on my daily commuting bike and would like to make sure I got everything I'll need.

[@RunPlayBack]

So the T-Plug adapter goes on the battery so it can connect to the controller which is XT60.

[@thatguyandrew7631]

@@RunPlayBack Awesome! Thank you for the fast response. Just bought everything I'll need. Any chance you could link the anti spark switch from luna cycles?

[@RunPlayBack]

@@thatguyandrew7631 yup this one with XT60 connector lunacycle.com/remote-on-off-solid-state-switch/

[@thatguyandrew7631]

@@RunPlayBack Just finished my 48v swap and couldn't be happier! Used a solder free method and I've been running solid for a week or so now. Also opted out of using velcro and instead used weather stripping and a latch & hinge for weather proofing the housing. Thanks again for the awesome guide, loving this z1 enough to maybe cancel my RX preorder!

[@RunPlayBack]

@@thatguyandrew7631 That's amazing to hear! Really glad you're enjoying it. I feel like the Z1 upgrade definitely has more torque than the RX off the line.

[@mimig8023]

Hi can you put a fresh link to a newer battery option? That eBay link is dead

[@RunPlayBack]

Try LiteSpeedBikes: litespeedbikes.mybigcommerce.com/48v21ah-super-73-in-seat-battery/

[@mimig8023]

Thanks!

[@Zackbrooks737]

Thanks for the video! I think my motor is spinning backwards tho. Can I just switch 2 of the phase wires?

[@RunPlayBack]

Yup that should work!

[@Zackbrooks737]

@@RunPlayBack thanks for the reply. I thought something was wrong with the motor so I took it apart. Put it back together and now it’s making a grinding noise. So, pretty sure I messed it up…. Now looking for a new motor.

[@Zackbrooks737]

@@RunPlayBack I also didn't program the controller? I don't really see what I needed to?

[@RunPlayBack]

@@Zackbrooks737 follow the same numbers I have at 21:45

[@Zackbrooks737]

@@RunPlayBack I didn’t buy the same controller as you, didn’t find your video until after I ordered. Mine didn’t come with the same display etc.

[@GusBusOfficial]

Is there a different thumb throttle people are using? the one on here is out of stock/unavailable :(

[@yungcrossfit]

Great video! What did you end up doing with the brake sensor wires? Is there a way to connect those? Or any advantage/disadvantage to keeping them unplugged?

[@RunPlayBack]

Thanks! So I didn't use them since I changed the throttle and brakes. I don't think there's any advantage to using them since I usually let go of the throttle when I brake. I don't really need a sensor to cut the motor off.

[@yungcrossfit]

@@RunPlayBack Perfect! I wanted to make sure I wasn't doing any damage by not connecting them. Thanks so much for your reply and for making this tutorial. I added a 36v 20000mAh battery and the controller you recommended and the thing is so much more fun to ride now.

[@RunPlayBack]

@@yungcrossfit Awesome! Thanks for watching and enjoy the ride!

[@josaurabonet4388]

@@RunPlayBack I did the conversion and the motor doesn’t run. Any suggestions? I re-installed the motor wires twice and replaced the bullet connectors as well. But the motor will not run.

[@RunPlayBack]

@@josaurabonet4388 Did you put the power level above 0? If it's at 0 the motor won't run.

[@avoirunevieextraordinaire2000]

Hello. Nice Video. Just a question, I have made same stuff like you with another controller but not working ... I wanted to know if you need to connect too the brakes in order to works or or not ?

[@RunPlayBack]

No I didn't connect the controller to the brakes. It doesn't really require a brake/motor cutoff.

[@jahhdenn1430]

Thanks for making this video! It’s giving me a lot of confidence lol. Got a question if you might know the answer. I wanted to do pedal assist on my z1 but not planning on upgraded to a bigger battery yet. I would basically do the same thing you did in this video but with a 36v controller that supports pedal assist right?

[@RunPlayBack]

Yes that's right...there's a video I published right after this one that shows how I installed pedal assist.

[@jahhdenn1430]

@@RunPlayBack yes I’ve been watching a few of your videos to see if I wanna do the 48v upgrade or not. I just picked up a used z1, better late than never lol! But your videos are super helpful so I appreciate it!

[@jahhdenn1430]

Hey man! Sorry to bother. Was just curious when you were programming the controller did you have it connected to the motor at all? Or was it just connected to the battery?

[@MrTurkeybags]

Nice vid pare! Ayo i want to upgrade my z1 with a 36v battery that fits in the seat. Any suggestions that fit? Thanks mane

[@RunPlayBack]

Thanks! I think only custom battery builders offer that now. Try Brick Lithium on Facebook.

[@dvbtxstsrgetrtcfasdy]

I put on the same controller and I do not recommend it because it heats up terribly, you can cook a dinner on it, do not buy it 500 watts too weak for this motor, I will add that it was only checked in the workshop without load. Video nice thx

[@Burronster]

Can you help me out I’m trying to wire a key voltage switch on my rx can you tell me how to wire it up

[@RunPlayBack]

You can tap into the battery harness wires for the most accurate voltage reading or can also tap into the cable feeding into the display. First, you'll need to open the cable and find the positive battery/power wire and the ground/return wire. Second, is cut the positive/battery wire. Third, IIRC, the keyed voltage switch has 3 wires, #1 is the black wire -- which you'll need to tap into to the cable's ground/return wire (you can use a wire tap), #2 is the red wire -- which you'll connect to the cut positive/battery wire going towards the display (if you chose the display cable) or the controller (if you chose the battery harness), #3 is the green wire -- which you'll connect to the positive/battery wire going towards the controller (if you chose the display cable) or towards the battery (if you chose the battery harness). This is all obviously at your own risk, GL :)

[@BoxCarRacer808]

You’re awesome man! Thank you for this vid! One question- For the programming, how did you get the numbers for that? What would I have to enter for the C sections for pedal assist?

[@RunPlayBack]

So I'm not 100% sure what the pedal assist settings are since I didn't install it but this video is the best explanation / walk through for that controller/display: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eGGpZ6tui5WBkLM

[@shifthead6390]

@runplayback was there a different battery link before? I can’t seem to find the same one that you used in the video thank you

[@RunPlayBack]

The one I used in the video was discontinued. I linked a reputable battery manufacturer who can build a custom one instead.

[@craiganders6985]

Got it all put together, seems like the controller isn’t outputting to the motor. When I press throttle the wheel makes a faint twitch like it’s about to start but then power dies off. On the screen it shows wattage go up a little then drop back down to 0. There’s 5V at the throttle, but right now pedal assist, walk mode and throttle don’t work. Any thoughts? I have removed connector on throttle and soldered together

[@RunPlayBack]

Hmm ok try two things. Make sure the you have the power above 0. If there's still an issue check your throttle wires and be sure they match. Some throttle wires don't match the controller (red with red / black with black / third color with third color.) Pedal assist and walk mode will not work unless you have a pedal assist sensor installed.

[@raiviasd]

Hey did you ever figure it out? I'm having the same issue

[@craiganders6985]

Once I put the power above 0 it worked fine. I also went ahead and added the pedal assist sensor.

[@keithmurphy9583]

Awesome vid. Would love to see the pedal assist install.

[@RunPlayBack]

Yeah definitely I can do that, it's a pretty simple installation.

[@russellpaterson135]

hey, all the battery links are dead! looking for a 48v that will fit in the seat, anybody able to recommend ?

[@RunPlayBack]

Did you reach out to Brick Lithium? They do custom packs for the Z1. Link in description.

[@russellpaterson135]

@@RunPlayBack yeah i did last week but didn't hear back

[@tomhodgdon4387]

So apparently Brick Lithium is essentially closed as of April 28 according to his FB page, mentions starting up again in 2024.

[@burtonminis2977]

First off, thanks for the video and instructions. Good stuff. Second, I can also confirm that Brick Lithium is gone. I ordered a battery back in March from Brick back when they were still responding. I eventually did get a battery, but not one that would fit the Z1, they sent a mountable ebike battery in a big plastic enclosure meant for external mounting. I asked what we could do about the mixup because they had initially confirmed that this was a custom battery to fit under the Z1 seat. Never got a response. Of course, I could possibly disassemble the battery they sent and work to make it fit but that wasn't the point. Brick never responded. Now I'm also on the hunt for a good battery replacement as well. I'll post if I find one.

[@BillReinhardt]

Excellent video! Any preliminary range results? I have the same exact hardware and have a hard time exceeding 11 miles of range under throttle use only. Wondering if my battery has some dead cells...

[@RunPlayBack]

Yup so in the 2 days I've been riding, the torque and pull off the line has been awesome. I've been seeing some decent range although I haven't done a crazy long ride yet. My battery levels have been pretty consistent though and I think I could pull off 35-40 mile range riding under 20mph. For reference I'm only about 135lbs.

[@RunPlayBack]

Dead cells could be the culprit, no way you'd only get 11 miles range off a 48v 20ah battery.

[@BillReinhardt]

@@RunPlayBack Yea, what sucks is that the 11 miles of range was not only at reduced power (C5 set to 8), but the PAS was at level 3. I do not have a PAS, but level 3 limits the throttle top speed to about 23mph. With this scenario, I was expecting 25 miles at least. I just bought a new battery, will report back if the issue is fixed in case someone runs into a similar issue.

[@RunPlayBack]

@@BillReinhardt oh wow yeah with those settings you should definitely be getting more range. Yeah let me know when the new battery arrives if it was dead cells or something else.

[@BillReinhardt]

@@RunPlayBack Just a heads up, I have a reddit post about this. Have obtained an interesting response. www.reddit.com/r/Super73/comments/hyb1ym/z1_48v20ah_battery_mod_range_question/ One person states that these batteries are actually 8Ah and not 20. The sticker says one thing, but the charge rate and time say another. Could explain the issue I'm seeing.

[@lekivicuna3347]

Is the throttle necessary, or can I just use stock...because I can’t find one with black option, thanks! The link has no more

[@RunPlayBack]

I would get a new throttle - it's been reported that the stock Z1 throttle might not be able to handle 48 volts.

[@lekivicuna3347]

@@RunPlayBack you by chance wouldn’t know who still stocks the 6 pin black option would you?fyi thanks for your content without it we would struggle lol!

[@lekivicuna3347]

@@RunPlayBack I found them on alli express I appreciate all the info and actually responding much respect aloha

[@kierlane8320]

This is great content and I'm trying to upgrade my son's Z1 with the controler you recommended. It seems like I will also need to replace the throttle and the brakes since Super73 has a different wiring schema than the controller. Is that correct or have you figured out a way to make the stock parts work?

[@RunPlayBack]

That's correct, you'll need to replace the throttle. The brakes are fine, you just have to disconnect the sensors.

[@KEVINRIGLOS]

@RunPlayBack Where can I buy the throttle? The link is not available. Thanks

[@RunPlayBack]

This one? amzn.to/3vxyNtO

[@flpparts]

Such a well done video !!! Keep it up brotha can’t wait to see more mods

[@RunPlayBack]

Thanks for watching!

[@Its_freemund]

You could just solder the motor phase wires instead of using the bullet connectors right?

[@RunPlayBack]

Yup you can!

[@TheDOOKIEonYOU]

Awesome video and thank you. Do you have to swap out the stock thumb throttle for the one you have linked? Also since the link expired. What other 48v battery will work. I’m Trying to purchase the whole set at once to get mine rolln ASAP. Mahalo 🤙🏽

[@RunPlayBack]

Yes it's recommended to swap out the stock throttle because it may not be able to handle 48 volts. Here's the best option for a high quality 48v battery - litespeedbikes.mybigcommerce.com/18650-battery-packs/

[@michaelbradley7704]

As a first try you did OK. But... This is what I'd do, change the battery Voltage to a 52v (for me even higher maybe 60v) so you spend more time at 48v when discharging, remember Voltage is your speed and AMPs is your Torque. The amount of your AMP's is what generates any heat in your controller or motor. So higher voltage means same heat if you are using less AMP's to achieve the same Watt's (speed on the road). Voltage times AMP's = Watts or V times A = W (which) = Heat and Speed. Another thing to improve is the controller, there are only 3 types. Square wave, Sin wave and FOC (Field Orientated Controller) , its hard to describe but I have listed them worse to best. A square wave controller is like trying to ride a skate board up and down a stair case, a sin wave controller is like skate boarding a U shaped ramp and FOC is like surfing an undulating endless wave on a calm ocean. I can tell which you are using by the loudness of the noise being made by your electric motor as the more efficient will make less sound therefore square wave is noisy and FOC is silent. I won't bother with the first 2 as listed as you have probably encountered them already. The best FOC is sold by Grin Tech electric bikes in Canada, it is very small but depending on which model you purchase is about one third the size of your controller in the video. FOC features are much better and offer a wider range of voltages and AMP's, Self programming Hall wires so you don't have to "colour match", Regenerative braking (I have not bought brake pads for my bike for the last 3 years), and the motor I have is completely silent. I could go on and on about FOC but just watch their video's on their controller.

[@RunPlayBack]

This video is almost 2 years old. This is the latest iteration of this build: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q3rUgpl3rbWSjJY

[@dinoscottgrindle5384]

Rick another question, does the original 36v controler have a pedal assist connection, or a LCD connection? I want to put pedal assist on my z1 when it arrives in October....thx bro.

[@RunPlayBack]

Hey Dino! The original 36v stock controller does not have a pedal assist or LCD connection as far as I know. You're best bet would be to upgrade the controller like the one I link in the video. You could also just replace the controller and not the battery to keep things simple.

[@jonathanhang9482]

Hi, wanted to know if I upgrade the stock controller with display to the 48v can I use my stock battery or do I also have to upgrade the battery? Only asking because the battery is not available anymore. Thx and nice video

[@RunPlayBack]

Yes you can upgrade to the controller and display with the stock battery. You'll just need Deens plugs instead of XT3's.

[@jonathanhang9482]

Do u know another source for the 48v battery I can buy? The link u put is no longer available. Thx for your response

[@RunPlayBack]

@@jonathanhang9482 yup check out Lite Speed Bikes - a little more expensive but they are super reputable and custom made in the US - litespeedbikes.mybigcommerce.com/18650-battery-packs/

[@JaxDockery]

Hey I wanna do this but I can’t find the battery on the website

[@Pdmakesenc]

Big ups to karacold!!!!

[@JPTake3]

Rik. Awesome job. Thank you. Keep up the good work. And say mahalo to your other helper. Awesome bro

[@RunPlayBack]

Will do! Thank you brother 🙌

[@JPTake3]

RunPlayBack oh no. Your doing great job. I follow you on Super73 also as Jr Par. And enjoy how your family is involved. I’m getting my other half involved too. So. May give her the Z1 and I get the S2. But after you did this awesome mod. Maybe I get another Z1. Again keep up the good work. Be safe. Give this man two thumbs up and more.

[@reviewanything530]

How about leaving the opening open for ventilation instead of using gorilla tape? I’ve watched other videos too regarding overheating. What you think?

[@RunPlayBack]

Yeah that would work, I was just concerned with water going inside of the enclosure and getting trapped near the battery terminals. I haven't had any issues with overheating but that just might be my riding style. If you're slamming the throttle for long stretches it will overheat the controller. Mounting the controller outside seems to work for others. But until I run into any issues, I prefer the minimal aesthetic of keeping everything hidden inside of the seat. That's just my two cents but everyone's build is a little different which is great. Once you get started you discover your own way of modding things.

[@reviewanything530]

@@RunPlayBack I’ve never thought about the water issues. Just did the speed hack and I’m not contented with the speed. Now looking into doing the 48v conversion. Just saving up for it. Thanks for the quick reply. Great job on your videos 👏

[@RunPlayBack]

@@reviewanything530 No problem, let me know if you have any questions when you get started, I'm always happy to help. Good luck! 👍

[@BeCamiloVideos]

hi!! very nice video, i'm using it as inspiration for the mods i'm working on my Z1, thanks for making this detailed video. i have a question, the wires for the headlight of the controller, do you know what is the V output on those? if i have a 12v light do i need to also add a converter? again, thanks for the help. best

[@RunPlayBack]

Hey Hector! So I've actually had some issues with the headlight wires. They actually output 48v and I did add a converter to step it down to 12v but for whatever reason it was really buggy and would cut off intermittently. I decided to not use those wires and opted for a physical switch instead.

[@BeCamiloVideos]

@@RunPlayBack great, good to know, thank you

[@dinoscottgrindle5384]

Ok RIC. I finally got my z1 with a dual voltage (36v & 48v) controller and a second 48 volt battery on the frame. I have pedal assist..l.c.d everything. Thank you for your help, but now I have a new problem. I bought a second massive controler...savaton universal voltage..can go 36 to 72 volt batteries..but, there is only 5 hall sensor wires instead to 6. .blue/ green/ black/ yellow/ red. How do I match these 5 to the motors 6 wires... Any clue bro?

[@RunPlayBack]

Hey Dino! The wire colors should match up and whatever isn't being used don't worry about them. Do most of the colors match up?

[@pocketrocketschmizza]

hi, great video. do you know if this works on the eu version (ZG) aswell?

[@tkoguy]

Any thoughts on leaving the 36v volt battery as a back-up and installing a frame mount 48v battery? The controller auto detects what volt the system is running. My plan is running a 48v 18mah on the frame and leaving the 36v as a back-up on long trips. This way all I have to do is switch the plugs (I plan to re-wire outside the seat) when I want to switch over to the 36v. Any thoughts?

[@RunPlayBack]

Yeah would definitely work. If you are okay with having a bit of a heavier bike for the added range why not? Are you usually doing long trips on this bike?

[@tkoguy]

@@RunPlayBack Im a road cyclist doing 30 to 50 miles on a ride and I need the long-range so my wife can follow me. My Juice Scrambler with the 19ah battery will do it but the wife has a hard time reaching the ground since she's a little short. This will also be able to keep up with the Scrambler on the 30 to 50-mile rides.

[@smelchionda]

Thanks for the great video! Nice work. I am doing this mod on my son's Z1. I see that you set a lot of settings in the controller display. Aside from the units and the wheel size what do those other settings do? Reason I ask is that I am using a 14000 mah battery and so was wondering if those settings had anything to do with the battery? The instructions that came with the controller doesn't go into the details of each setting

[@RunPlayBack]

The settings don't really effect the amp hours. This is a good walk through if you have the same display kzbin.info/www/bejne/eGGpZ6tui5WBkLM

[@smelchionda]

@@RunPlayBack Also wanted to say thank you for this. I had your video on a continuous look for the entire day that I was working on this project. Its now done and working. Only thing I need is more velcro to hold the seat down. I have that on order from Amazon. Should be here on Tuesday.

[@Aids21]

What Battery Are You Using?

[@billmos]

Hey! Awesome video! 13s3p or 13s4p for battery? what is the difference?

[@RunPlayBack]

13s3p is 39 cells while 13s4p is 52 cells. More cells means more range.

[@billmos]

@@RunPlayBack thank you

[@jxboba]

Watched every single video, thanks for the clarity. Question: if I wanted to replace the battery like you did but not the controller and keep the on/off switch, How would you do that if the aftermarket battery only comes with two wires?

[@tkoguy]

The stock controller cannot handle 48v

[@RunPlayBack]

You'll need to upgrade the controller as well. Unless your upgrading the battery to a different 36v.

[@MrMattCh00]

Hi was wondering if you had info on the stock z1 battery. the charge cable going from the battery to the charge port: is it XTC60 or XTC30?

[@RunPlayBack]

Matt Cajigal XT-30

[@MrMattCh00]

@@RunPlayBack I was wondering if I could pick your brain. About the stock controller. The on off switch for the stock setup: is it a 36V switch or is it just a low power on off switch?

[@RunPlayBack]

@@MrMattCh00 hey Matt, so the on/off switch isn't connected to the stock controller, it's connected directly to the battery. I'm assuming there might be a BMS inside the pack that is regulating that switch to a lower voltage. It probably is because you have to turn it on for it to charge. I could be wrong about that though..its probably a low power switch.

[@MrMattCh00]

@@RunPlayBack much appreciated. I was thinking the same thing. The gauge of wires for the switch and the connector alone made me think the same thing. Haha I'm asking because one of my local riders actually has two stock Z1 batteries and we're going to be running them in parallel with a y-cable I made for him.

[@sebiseas]

Hello would this also apply to a ENGWE Unit Pack Power 48V or would I have to do something diffrent

[@RunPlayBack]

I don’t see how it would be any different, maybe the plugs won’t match but that can be fixed easily.

[@xJ3YQx]

How do you wire the throttle? My cord seems short. And the connectors don’t match.

[@RunPlayBack]

You may have to solder the wires together. Colors are sometimes different but essentially there's only 3 wires to connect - red-positive, black-negative, other color-signal.

[@RaphaelValencia-tw4nk]

But connect them to what part of the controller? I am stuck with wiring the lcd screen to the controller. It doesn’t show how to in your video. Pls help 😂🙏🏻

[@Brandon-ik6ty]

Could you wire the new and old batteries in series with a beefier controller and run it at 84 volts?

[@RunPlayBack]

Hey Brandon! Thats a good question that I unfortunately lack the electrical skills to answer :) I'm pretty sure that wiring in series or parallel requires identical voltage. Either way, running this Z1 bike at 84 volts would be way too much for this tiny frame.

[@Brandon-ik6ty]

@@RunPlayBack thanks for taking time to reply!

[@RunPlayBack]

No problem! If you're looking to hit those high voltages I'd suggest checking out the Suron or Onyx RCR.

[@enjoyus100]

So how is the bike 4 months after the install? Does the battery still hold charge? Does it still have the same torque? Would I need a cooling fan for the my bike as it gets around 35°c over the summer?

[@RunPlayBack]

Hey Dean! Its great I have no complaints. The battery still holds a charge and has the same amount of torque. I take really good care of it and keep the battery indoors so no issues. I thought of a cooling fan but never really needed it. Some people install their controllers on the outside of the enclosure to keep it cool.

[@36tashia]

We're do I find the link of the description of the parts. Also I seen on ebay they sell the controller and the throttle together would that work or I have to buy the one u have

[@bernardosuss]

Man, one year later you’ve posted this video i just got my Z1 and one of my first impressions is that the battery should be bigger. Did you choose the 48V for a specific video? How big is that in relation to the stock one? I really have zero understanding of batteries.

[@RunPlayBack]

I chose 48v because it would fit inside of the stock seat and I wanted a little more torque with the aftermarket controller. The easiest way to upgrade to a bigger battery and simply get more range is to get the ChiBatterySystems battery for the Z1.

[@JoshBoatWrong]

As of November 2024 the battery is not showing up on the website. Does anyone know of a different battery that would work the same?

[@avoirunevieextraordinaire2000]

Hello. just a question, this is not a problem if your battery is 1000 watts, when your controller handle less like 500 watts ? Not dangerous ? Can I use a 350w battery on a controller for 1000w for example ? And same about amper ? The battery delivery 20Ah, when controller rated current is 12Ah.

[@RunPlayBack]

From what I understand the controller can handle less watts but not more than what it's rated for. For example, I wouldn't try a 52v battery on a controller that's rated to handle a 36/48v. The motor has a little more flexibility. For example the Z1 motor is rated 500watts nominal and 1000watts peak which is why this 48v conversion doesn't blow it. I don't think the controller has the same kind of leeway.

[@TheDOOKIEonYOU]

Are we able to hook a up the same LCD speedometer up to the stock controller on the z1

[@RunPlayBack]

I'm pretty sure you can't. I don't remember any port for a display. The only display for the stock controller was connected to the throttle. It's worth getting the new controller along with the LCD display. If your just looking for a speedometer just mount a phone on the handlebars.

[@michaelarcangel5862]

Is it necessary to upgrade the stock motor on the bike or is it fine with the new battery?

[@RunPlayBack]

It's fine for 48v and 52v but top speed will cap out around 33-35mph.

[@LazieReaper]

Battery link is not working, any chance you could share the name or another link?

[@RunPlayBack]

I think this might be the same one - make sure it's 13s4p though www.ebay.com/itm/48V-20AH-Li-ion-Battery-Volt-Rechargeable-Bicycle-1000W-E-Bike-Electric-Li-ion/392959329066

[@enjoyus100]

@@RunPlayBack how do you know it's a 13s4p? There is nothing in the Ebay item description? Is this the right battery?

[@enjoyus100]

This seems to be bigger in dimensions than the battery you bought! Can you provide a link with the correct battery?

[@RunPlayBack]

@@enjoyus100 looks like it's not available on ebay anymore. I would hit up this company based in Chicago and ask them for a custom Z1 battery, they are legit chibatterysystems.com/

[@gordonjowett8732]

I see two options for connector on the thumb throttle on your amazon link , which was it or did i miss something , thanks

[@RunPlayBack]

Black, Option 1 is the one you want.

[@gordonjowett8732]

@@RunPlayBack Thanks rik , think i am going to try this on the ZG the euro version of the Z1 what happens to the motor cut out on the brake lever is that still connected

[@RunPlayBack]

gordon jowett nice! So no issues with brake sensors removed. I actually disconnected them when I installed my shimano hydraulic brakes. I think all it does is override and cut off the throttle if you are still holding it down while braking. Not something anyone should be doing anyway. So it works much like a motorcycle in that way.

[@gordonjowett8732]

Thanks again rik , like others i will be waiting for you to do the pedal assist install vid

[@burtonminis2977]

Hey Rik, question for you: I've almost got this build up and running except when I hit the throttle on PAS 1-5, I only get a small click or small movement at the motor, never a full rotation, then it stops. The display shows minimal watts, never more than about 65 and only for a second and then it stops and drops back with throttle still on. Doesn't seem to matter the throttle level or PAS level really. I'm about to go through all my solder connections between the controller and motor. Everything else looks good. I see motor temp at 60. battery volts at 52.1, I replicated your settings on the screen. Any other ideas beyond wiring fault?

[@RunPlayBack]

Hmmm I'm not I've ever encountered that error before. But it does seem like some kind of wiring issue within the motor.

[@burtonminis2977]

@@RunPlayBack Thanks for the quick response bro. I will report back when I figure it out.

[@burtonminis2977]

@@RunPlayBack Reporting success! Hall sensor wiring issue of some type, now fixed! Now with the 48v upgrade she's popping wheelies and hitting close to 30 MPH. Thanks for sharing your work! I'll eventually post a vid of my actual build and tag you.

[@thearasahow4097]

@@burtonminis2977 can you share what fixed it .. I’m having the same issue on take off . Goes and stop but if I’m rolling or press the throttle slowly it goes

[@burtonminis2977]

@@thearasahow4097 in our case it was just pulling the motor-to-controller cable off, re-checking the connections and that fixed it. Good luck with the build!

[@RRGCGarage]

How did you figure out the motor p settings? Did you figure out the gear reduction and magnet count?

[@RunPlayBack]

I tried looking for info on the motor but couldn't find any. I based my P settings roughly on a Bafang 500w hub and settings from other users with the same setup.

[@erealpe13]

i did the upgrade with the same controller but the 880 display none led and I'm not getting pass 15 mph or so please help and thank you

[@MatthewMvllally]

haven't even got my bike yet and I want to do this upgrade. I'm about 210 lbs. Do you think I should get a higher voltage battery, and if so, will the controller you have work with it. Thank you!

[@RunPlayBack]

The controller is only rated for 48v so anything more would probably cause a short. But you might be surprised, 48v has some solid torque.

[@MatthewMvllally]

@@RunPlayBack Thanks man. Do you have another link for the battery you used? Or something similar. The current link isnt working.

[@nickynice617]

I did this conversion and the bike keeps shorting out, asking around someone said it's most likely the settings (bike shuts off at 700W almost on the dot) anywhere I can find the what each settings are? I bought the same controller/screen but no instructions. Thanks!

[@RunPlayBack]

I would suggest checking your battery/BMS, what is it rated for? Continuous and peak current (amperage)? Once you have that confirmed, then you can program the controller so that it does not exceed your battery's limitations.

[@aeskellion]

Hey I just ordered the kit does it come with the throttle ? I have the European zg and it’s pedal assist only.

[@RunPlayBack]

Nope you need to purchase a throttle separately. I think I linked one in the description.

[@aeskellion]

@@RunPlayBack oh yeah right. Thanks.

[@greg6162]

*Dude?! wish I wasn’t 6’3* because I’m way to big for SUPER73’s bike frame’s 😔 but this was complicated but you must be an engineer by trade because that was awesome! I could use a little off-road setup like this to take to my secret 🤫 fishing honey hole’s. I wonder if they sell a fishing rod holder for this Lol 😝 Honestly, everything seems really custom and DIY so with a bit of creativity I bet I could rig something up. *I love the look of the Super73-RX frame with the dual shock’s... it’s probably my favorite frame even to this day* Wish frame wasn’t so low to the ground because at 6’3 199/lbs… I don’t see me being able to pedal this without looking like the Jolly Green Giant who keep’s kneeing himself in the face while trying to pedal on this sweet a$$ frame piece🤣. Seriously tho, I really think the Super73-RX frame’s are still the sexiest looking setup’s. I would love to hook up dual 1000w-motors with like dual 60V-20ah batteries, the open frame space would probably accommodate it somehow and with a boss-a$$ controller I’d be so smooth,pedal free and riding dead sexy!!! Awe man the possibilities with this frame!!!! I hope the *new Super73 CX-1 brings the frame up for taller rider’s?!*

[@RunPlayBack]

I hear ya! Yeah the Z1 is probably too small. An RX is definitely more suitable for taller riders. 👍👍

[@avoirunevieextraordinaire2000]

Hello. Nice video : ) I have made same think like you but when I accelerate I just the sound of the motor inside the wheel .. but nothing move. I have forget something ?

[@colinmoses4232]

Without changing the controller on my RX I just wanna change the battery to 52V 18AH. Problem is the Brick Lithium battery I got has 2 Anderson plugs, but looks like it goes into the controller via HiGo L615AG P connector. This connector has 2 large pins and then 4 other pins. What's the easiest solution to change the battery out? All the HI guys say to check out your KZbin channel. I havcent seen anyone do this yet in detail. I did spend hours on the interwebs yesterday schooling myself on all the endless kinds of connectors though. Could use some guidance. Mahalo Much!

[@RunPlayBack]

Oh wow I'm not really sure how those would connect. Have you hit up Frank at Brick Lithium, I think he'd probably be the best to ask regarding the connections to the RX as he's definitely built batteries for it.

[@colinmoses4232]

@@RunPlayBack yea stopped by his place yesterday and he hooked me up with the connectors / splitter / wires I needed to get my battery working. Sooo helpful! Only thing is I'll have to operate it as just a dual battery until I get the controller changed out. I kinda wanted to avoid the dual battery thing for multiple reasons. Maybe I'll try that battery blender from SParks and see if I get extra torque at least when the stock is cutout from the motor on start (59V from 52V battery vs the 48V stock). The wire from the stock battery to stock controller has extra 4 pins that likely monitor the battery sensors. Since I have the stock 48V & now a 52V I gotta drain the 59V battery down to the 54 or so for the stock in order to run it safely. 1 project at a time : ) thanks for the quick reply brotha.

[@Burronster]

Is this process the same with the rx because I want to upgrade the controller on it

[@RunPlayBack]

Yup! I don't know exactly how the RX is wired but once you remove the controller, you can pretty much wire it up the same way depending on what aftermarket controller you go with. I would reach out to www.e-streetbikes.store/ as they have more info on the latest kits for the RX.

[@bryangarfinkle5097]

What about going to a 52w battery? Would I need a new controller too? Di you think that would be a good upgrade or am I just going too far?

[@RunPlayBack]

A few have done it, definitely possible. It's also more expensive than this upgrade. Only you can decide what's right for you.

[@kadeXfischbeck]

i put a 48 volt battery on my 36v controller and the thumb throttle would turn on but woudlt make action when i would push on throttle. Just got a new controller hopping it will fix it.

[@ericloyola5970]

I wonder if this mod would work on my Ariel X-Class? Its currently pushing top at 28mph. It has a rear hub bafang 750w.

[@RunPlayBack]

Yeah it probably could...I'm not sure where the controller lives in the X-Class but if you can find it and it's easy enough to replace..why not?

[@Opium_Uchiha]

can you only put in the controller or will that not work

[@RunPlayBack]

You can but it would be somewhat pointless. The battery and controller as a pair increase the performance.

[@JacobHernandez1311]

What other battery’s do you recommend and a price range for a reliable battery

[@RunPlayBack]

If you're looking for a custom battery, check out powerfullithium.com

[@moisestorres9618]

"That' coming right up!" ;D

[@far35d62]

Hey I just want to know what that adapter is for from Amazon that you have in the list of items to order

[@RunPlayBack]

Its not necessary. The new battery and controller should have XT60 connectors.

[@senzzed4350]

Hi RunPlayBack, I have a question. Is there anyway I could possibly connect one of these LCD screens to the stock controller. I want to keep the battery and controller mostly stock but still have the screen. Thankyou

[@RunPlayBack]

Unfortunately there's no way that would work. The only way is to replace the stock controller.

[@m.anthonyl6921]

I’ve done this 48v upgrade mod on my Z1 but it shows error code “Motor Position Sensor Fault” I need some help. Any input would be great.

[@RunPlayBack]

Sounds like a hall sensor issue, double check all your connections to the motor

[@kevinu8919]

@runplayback are you using the 12amp controller?

[@kevinu8919]

??

[@RunPlayBack]

Hi, thanks for watching, not sure where you got 12amp from, but a 30amp controller was used.

[@elishuagutierrez1759]

Hey ,love the video did everything and my screen is saying motor position fault please help! @runplayback

[@mimig8023]

Thank you for this! I recently got my PSG ltd edition Z1 and love it except for the battery and top speed. Do you know anyone who I can pay to do this in NYC?

[@RunPlayBack]

No problem! Yes actually reach out to litespeedbike.com/ dude in NJ who does custom work for Z1's... here's his IG instagram.com/vinylbybobby/

[@dinoscottgrindle5384]

Oh yeah...rik, do you know anybody who does these mods around Pittsburgh?

[@robjazful]

bro that was awesome. thank you

[@RunPlayBack]

any time!

[@manutokomaata5368]

So do I use a Anderson to xt60 to use the controller and my stock battery?

[@RunPlayBack]

Yup

[@deadluck_tm]

Is the motor extension cord a 9pin? My z1 caught on fire and im doing a rebuild...the hubmotor cord is short

[@RunPlayBack]

I believe it's 11 pin but I don't know the exact specs of the connector. You could also just forego the connectors and splice the wires directly.

[@marscortes]

Yo boss that T-plug to xt60 , the battery end is male and the xt60 from the controller is a male? Just for clarification. I need female adaptor from end to end to connect the two? Confusing enough lol? Thanks bro mabuhay from S.cali