SuperHouse #21: Six Sonoff Secrets: Storage, Safety, Switches, Sensors, Software, and Sites

[@anganghere]

2:27 - Storage 9:08 - Safety 17:32 - Switch 22:08 - Switch (part 2) 23:23 - Switch (light switch) 27:00 - Switch (light switch part 2) 29:14 - Sensor 35:28 - Software 43:43 - Website

[@sendokgarpu8083]

Saya tommy dari Indonesia. Saya senang melihat video ini.

[@K3Ladin]

thxxx

[@stephenmassey2682]

I like the way you break down the pin options and do the real time illustration, and the neat trick turning the on and off toggle into a three way switching circuit between the device, toggle, and phone.

[@SuperHouseTV]

I've added a few more images and better descriptions to the episode page now, so it should be easier to find the specific headers, resistors, etc that I mention in the video. I'll keep expanding the page with more information over time, so if you think anything needs clarification please let me know.

[@themaconeau]

Is there enough space in the filesystem to allow for state awareness for the MQTT server? For example: when you use the light switch example, could the MQTT server push state update to the control all wirelessly?

[@SuperHouseTV]

Yes, that's not a problem. The Sonoff already has a concept of its own state, so the trick is just keeping everything in sync. You may have noticed in one part of the video I was alternating between using my phone and a switch to toggle the output, and I had to tap the phone twice because OpenHAB didn't know that the state of the Sonoff had been changed directly. The Sonoff would just need to report this local state change back to MQTT, so that other items (such as OpenHAB) are aware of it. That's already supported in the TASMOTA firmware, I just didn't configure OpenHAB to listen to it for the demo.

[@themaconeau]

SuperHouseTV Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. 😎

[@sharvensolo7707]

SuperHouseTV can I use the sonoff basic to turn on DC motors using DC voltage?

[@MichaGounski]

You missed a small cheap trick that you can do to do very good strain relief. This is what my safety-crazy electrician uncle taught me. You make a loop in a cable and secure it with rubber tape so that ends go oposite ways. Then on the oposite side of the tape you can splice and do anything. If you try to pull it apart, you need to overcome force of that tape in a way that it's really strong. Try it yourself :)

[@L3X369]

Me again, for years later, I'm living in a SuperHouse. Powered by sonoff (and philips hue, and smart blinds, robot vacuums, air purifiers, etc). Everything is smart. You sir inspired me! Big Thank you!

[@paulham]

"I could spend an entire episode just going through TASMOTA and things that it can do" - Please do, that would be great!! Really enjoyed this episode.

[@vojtechtambor867]

+1 for that! That was EXACTLY what I thought, a dedicated TASMOTA walkthrough would be awesome. BTW thumbsup for your channel, one of the most useful resource I stumbled upon in a very long time! keep up the great work!

[@splitvisionz]

Another +1. This is probably the most informative video I've ever seen about the sonoff devices. I would love an in depth video about TASMOTA.

[@imhard2please503]

Agreed Agreed Agreed

[@jimandgiz]

I too would love to sit for an hour listening to you go through the whole software package of Tasmota

[@Gaatech]

Totally agree and how do you do OTA updates

[@fastbyte9972]

Thanks, I'm an old-school techie who worked in PC board component replacement for years and long before components became so tiny I can't even seem them any more. Otherwise and in general I am someone who is damn critical of what I see online with all the idiots these days collecting views it has to make one a little disgusted, so this may very well be my first complement I've presented to a youtuber in 20 years but I have to say thanks for documenting this chip removal process. I've seen many people present it from an array of more complicated and costly methods, using heat guns that work like an avalanche to send every component toppling off the board but your technique is the best yet. Thanks!

[@DansKoiPond]

For wiring inline you don't actually need to cut the earth and rejoin if you strip the cable right. I passed the earth straight through my sonoff device. It's tight but you can pass it through.

[@itsadamoc]

Dan Herring Same. That's why I've been doing.

[@paullesueur7213]

b b a i can n bB.

[@EugenePugach]

If you don't cut the ground then you will not be able to mount the Sonoff inside a box (unless you cut off the plug or don't have one to start with).

[@VARocketry]

Are you saying you keep the earth line outside the box? Otherwise how do you get it through holes on both sides without cutting?

[@myopinion69420]

@@VARocketry its a bit late, but you can get small project boxes that are intended to go inline and split at the holes for the cable, some also have little saddle things for strain releif.

[@aantonis]

391 people create sonoff content with free floating grounds. Excellent work Jon! Very good explanations. Thank you very much.

[@GeeTheBuilder]

Another fantastic video. I've purchased a half dozen of the Sonoffs based on the previous video and have several running lights around the house. Now, with this video, I have lots more ideas for how I can use them. Hope we'll see more videos soon from SuperHouse!!

[@SuperHouseTV]

Thanks Graham!

[@NikonErik]

Current Sonoff firmware (as of Dec 2019) allows the "program mode" button to toggle the device on and off. It will also allow the switch to work in LAN only mode if there is no internet connection. So far the mods on SuperHouse TV are not needed.... but I'm still watching these great videos!

[@bluecobra967]

I must say, One of the best delivered Presentations I have seen on You Tube so far, Many thanks.

[@OneDollarWilliam]

Thanks so much! I just came across the Sonoff today and all I could think watching other people's videos was: "Where's the strain relief?" or "This guy is going to electrocute somebody." It seems like once it becomes associated with their smartphone people forget that these things are carrying AC power. I'm looking forward to adding these into my system, even with proper cables and enclosures they'll come in under a third of the price of the TP Link switches I'm using now.

[@brianfrias]

+SuperHouseTV Most awesome collection of tips. I normally have a short attention span on videos but was glued to the screen for the entire 40+ minutes and then jumped to the blog post for more. Thanks!

[@SuperHouseTV]

Thanks Brian! I want to make shorter videos, but somehow they just seem to keep getting longer.

[@marthamiller5877]

@@SuperHouseTV Love the 'long' video. Your thorough approach saved me precious time.

[@liamsbargains-uk4850]

I agree totally with the earth cable on the Sonoff WiFi switches. There is enough room to run the earth under the original cover soldering the two earths together and protecting with heat shrink. The wires are held nicely in place to securely with the case and cable clamp onto each original cable outer sheath. Nice neat connection in original case. We've replaced manually lamp switches with these for timed operation and for security out of hours too.

[@2e0txe]

Nice, very concise overview of everything Sonoff. Im definitely going to have a go at upgrading the memory chip. OTA updates would be much better than stripping the projects each time to update.

[@geertvancompernolle2586]

Hi Jonathan, Your demo's are really, really instructive. Not only from a features point of view (what the device, in this case Sonoff, is capable of), but you're also spending the necessary time to make people aware of the dangers of such projects. You tell the audience about the bad and good way of doing things in a very instructive way. And I couldn't agree more with this approach. Next to this, you're also spending time in explaining the regulations (IPxx stuff and so on) which many people might not know the background of it. And of course, the core of your presentations: how to apply stuff in a helpful way. You're doing it with a lot of good eplanation, both speaking as well as showing. I'm always looking forward to see a next video of yours. Keep up the (very) good work!!!

[@SuperHouseTV]

Wow, thanks Geert! I really appreciate that feedback.

[@lachy69069]

he's got skills! I love the soldering lessons added in! Amazingly helpful and informative videos, thank you.

[@robertcartier5088]

I'm barely passed 7 minutes and I've already learned something brilliant! Adding more solder to be able to heat all pins at once! So simple, yet I've been scavenging parts from old boards for years and never thought of it. Thank you! (Can't wait to go try it... But I'll watch the rest of the video first.)

[@zephsmith3499]

Regarding safety - if it's worth noting to your audience that earth needs to be passed through on three wire connections, perhaps you should also suggest keeping Line and Neutral correctly passed through without being swapped (when using polarized cords). This might not be noticed when using, for example, two wire lamp cord (SPT-1 or SPT-2 in the US). (Connecting the real Line (or Live) to L and Neutral to N, is also good practice, but perhaps less critical).

[@SuperHouseTV]

Good point. The early Sonoffs didn't have proper markings for Active / Neutral, but the current models have them labelled on both the inputs and the outputs.

[@niklasamann1204]

It's 2021 and this is still the most usefull video about the sonoffs I have seen. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

[@ozgemmo3445]

Very creative, extremely well presented - simply excellent! Keep up the great work. cheers

[@realburn6845]

Although I am an engineer myself, I learned a lot of things. Hats of for the clear explanations. Subbed the channel :-)

[@adamjacob5482]

Another fantastic super house episode. I really to enjoy your Sonoff episodes, they are a great affordable product. Cheers!

[@b19huk786]

Reed business 😆

[@TomoHawkZA]

Great video, I have said most of it before, but here goes again. The way you explain your choices and how thorough you are is so great. Well thought out enjoyable content! I enabled notifications for your channel, so I hope that helps a bit. Great references and acknowledgments as always.

[@SuperHouseTV]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@biggavdemille]

Just a note for UK (probably most country's) the light switches will not replace a normal plate switch in 99% of cases as we have no neutral at the switch. Makes these a little redundant to be honest ? Great video and i am fitting these everywhere. Whats everyone doing with the naming of the dual relay model ? I called mine "the" then renamed the 2 relays "heating" and "gates" so Alexa gets "Alexa turn --the heating-- on"

[@SuperHouseTV]

Yes, that's often a problem in Australia as well. It's common to loop the active down to the wall switch and back up again, so there's only active in / active out at the switch. I hope to do an episode soon talking about some of these sorts of practical cabling problems.

[@JGreveson]

Could you not potentially put these inside the ceiling rose and have live and switched live through the sonoff. So live on the input and switched live on the output and then just use your wall switch as a 3v switch like on the video? As you already have two wires going down to the light switch. You could even fit a momentary light switch, which are available in the UK for lights with a timer.

[@roberthawley3995]

Most new build wiring in the UK now takes the neutral to the switch. All the houses built in the last 5 yraers I've worked on have had the neutrals at the switch and commened up in a connector block. Also in the kitchens there is a radial feed (20amp on 2.5mm or 32 on 4mm) to a grid switch located in one of the kitcen cupboards, with a fuse and a double pole switch feeding out to the various appliences (cooker hood, washing machine etc)

[@davidgates8903]

Install E77 module in sonoff and install in ceiling rose, connect light switch to E77 module. Works brilliantly for homes without common wire at switch.

[@chemolar4927]

Well done mate, I have a so off in my home and the state change that you discuss help a lot , hope you do more of this

[@PeterScargill]

The Arendst software is great... it is RELIABLE for the SONOFFS and handles ALEXA. Mine does as you've noted but it's not my major area as my software handles much more and is larger - hence needing the FLASH replacement. But for Sonoffs I use the Arendst software. Recommended.

[@SuperHouseTV]

Thanks Peter :-) And thanks for your excellent work documenting the Sonoff. Your blog is what sparked my interest in that particular device in the first place!

[@PeterScargill]

Excellent. No doubt more in the future as they release new devices!

[@HerewardDundasTaylor]

Wow, I've been looking at how I can keep my vintage light switches in use, thank you! I first came across this yesterday, 1st January, and already I have found a new guru for the year! I've subscribed!

[@Emillos82]

Indeed, SONOFF is making the hardware the most of us were developing for our home automation. I just got today my 5 S20 sonoff wall sockets. I was making them myself, but really for the prices they offer them it is not worth the time. My next project somewhere this week is indeed trying to get the I2C bus running on a SONOFF to use a PCF8574Module so will get another 8 (or max 64) IO's. Keep up the good work. Really interesting.

[@squalazzo]

i think it's in peter scargill's firmware already... tech.scargill.net

[@nagarajprasadh]

Wow. So much to learn. Many thanks, I am a simple user but keen to learn and do more for now just using a plug to control my aquarium light on a schedule ! Your videos inspire me to learn more.

[@ltcbio1]

Thanks so much! Very informative, especially the waterproofing and connection to an external switch! I would love to see the setup you have at your shop if/when I visit Australia!!

[@Popart-xh2fd]

21:37 To avoid that you may use a DC Coupling Capacitor in series connected between the switch and the GPIO0 so that no DC runs to it but only temporary impulses! If the GPIO0 doesn't drain enough current, just connect it to a 10K resistor to drain the temporary "high" voltage given by the capacitor to the ground!

[@ron1457]

Thanks for a great Sonoff tutorial and as a bonus - teaching me how to remove board components! Add my vote for your doing specific Tasmoto session too.

[@SVader11]

Just stumbled on Sonoff a few days ago and got it working once it arrived. I was looking for a review but boy did I discover so much more! Thanks for the video.

[@geomatrix5452]

Great video and EXCELLENT points regarding safety! I watched one of the other videos where the guy was attaching the cut extension cord to each end... First thought that came to mind was the power end of the cord getting pulled out accidently was leaving a live wire exposed.

[@Orbis92]

Really nice work you've done so far. Only thing I have to complain about, in Germany we have to use wire end sleeves/ ferrules for multi-core wires, so shortcuts between a single lead of a wire is reduces. Especially when connected to a screw clamp, which pushes the single cores of a wire to the sides! But I do not know what the "law" says in the USA or other parts of the world.

[@SuperHouseTV]

That's a good method even when it's not legally required :-)

[@Jono6671]

Is that seriously the actual law in Germany? Very interesting

[@zadok88]

Same in Switzerland, as far as I know.

[@thatsunpossible312]

No requirement for ferrules in the US. I don't think they are specifically forbidden, but they are not common.

[@MarkRadcliff]

I want to use ferrules on mine but don't know the first thing about them. I'm in the us and my house is wired up with 110v on a 20 amp fuse. Where can I find ferrules for a stranded core extension cord that will be able to withstand the current?

[@s.j.jeanne8408]

I have made two of this boxed switches as I wanted to make sure that the wire couldn’t be pulled out as the connection holes are very small especially if you use a. Extension cord cut down. I removed a few strands of wire to thin it out cutting back to the protective casing. Made sure the glands held the cords tight seems impossible to pull out a accidentally. I used a commercial large junction box cut to size with a clear plastic lid. They work well love the fact that with IFTTT the lights turn on before I get in the house.

[@PaulGibbons1]

If your sonoff fails to connect to your router make sure the password is less than 20 characters in length and does not contain hypens.

[@SuperHouseTV]

Good tip!

[@alexcomp99]

It's more than password! I had a devil of a time with a Dlink router with an SSID that contained a hyphen. Finally stumbled upon the obscure warning that the Sonoff disregards router names that contain special characters. Dlink and perhaps others have default SSIDs that contain hyphens. It will really screw you up. It was pure luck that I figured it out.

[@pear7777]

this hyphen, thats the minus sign isn't it? ...

[@kwgm8578]

Another password pitfall to avoid occurs when you include an end of sentence delimiter (like . , ! ?) followed by additional characters in your password. Often your keyboard parser will insert a sneaky space character (0x20) after that delimiter. My Amazon tablet was doing just this, and I could never connect with the Sonoff device. No fault of Sonoff; it just seemed that way.

[@metoo7587]

@@kwgm8578 The Tasmota firmware has no such problems. Hyphens and long passwords are accepted.

[@albertogiusti3422]

Devo dire la verità, pensavo fosse la solita "cinesata" e invece ho scoperto un buon prodotto a un basso prezzo. Ho acquistato il mio primo Sonoff dal sito Lookathome e l ho utilizzato per accendere e spegnere le luci della sala. Successivamente, ne ho comprati altri e li utilizzo in tutte le stanze. Addirittura ne ho collegato uno al microonde in modo tale che appena rientro dalla pausa pranzo mi trovo il piatto caldo! :) Provare per credere!

[@Gozem78]

Want easy I2C? Use the RX and TX after you flashed it as SCL and SDA. You wont need them after flashing and you have already soldered a pin header for them. Super easy :-)

[@SuperHouseTV]

Nice tip, thanks!

[@jasonwilcox2245]

Good video. Glad to see a safety minded video for DIY home automation. Well done.

[@MauroSedrani]

+SuperHouseTV Great episode! Thanks!

[@paullesueur7213]

B

[@MuraliKrishnaKunapareddy]

One of the good episodes in SuperHouseTV. Kudos!

[@snajperSLO]

What changes are need for the switch to work on GPIO14 ? So that the switch toggles the relay/light as shown in the video above ?

[@pawel753]

As far as I understand it it should be possible on the stock firmware

[@SuperHouseTV]

Yes, that's correct. The stock firmware uses the button to toggle the output (and also to put it into pairing mode) so you don't need to install any different firmware for that. It's also supported by TASMOTA.

[@pawel753]

OK, but which firmware has to be uploaded to use GPIO14 and GND trick with latch switch? Tried this today on my Sonoff with stock firmware and doesn't seem to be working. Connecting and disconnecting GPIO14 and GND doesn't change the device state

[@mixpar2008]

I received mine today and also does not work using GPIO14 and GND trick with stock firmware.

[@pawel753]

Unfortunately it won't work on stock firmware. You need to upload other firmware but then you can't control this device with Itead cloud via phone app :(

[@richardwillaman2450]

I just found your site. I enjoy working with these type projects. Your information make understanding how to use them is great. I will pass them on to my friends. Thank you mentioning the safety factors. I work at a museum which you information may be used on displays. Thanks again.

[@gtoal]

can't believe the whinging about having 'only' 1MB of storage. We used to write entire applications for the BBC Micro in 8K eproms. I can't think of anything you would want to run in a light switch that needs more than that... :-)

[@DIYRandomHackery]

Yeah, but you didn't have a full tcp/ip stack and wifi interface on a bbc micro. That's where most of the space goes to.

[@jaminoes_]

Subscribed. The tip of removing the SMT chip by using a single glob of solder, did it for me.

[@khalifaal-thani6438]

You need a neutral line with the live ( Hot ) line for the smart switch to work

[@makjames1714]

Not necessarily through the switch though. As long as your neutral return is to the main box then OK it will still work. I think sonoff instructions indicate both the methods. The UK standard is to wire both neutral and live through the switch and importantly with an Earth connection as well if both in and out wires have one. Earth is very important for safety especially if your main box has RCD protection as the power will trip long before a fuse will blow. The section he talks about earth/IP ratings and protective boxes is really good. I will often prototype a system with everything exposed and open to check it all works but before putting anything in service will sort the earth/casing/glands etc.. and check the earth as well.

[@stuffoflardohfortheloveof]

I have no clue as to how I got here but was completely fascinated.....well done

[@KegRaider]

OOOh, I just found a new toy I'm gonna start playing with!

[@raym9691]

great video as always! so informative and we appreciate you sharing your work with us!

[@stephendav1]

Do these have any Australian safety certification ? no electrician will install it without one and it's illegal to do it yourself as I understand it and more importantly your house insurance could be voided if you did it yourself. (This assumes installing it in the wall)

[@dand8282]

You can use slamphers with plug-to-socket converters w/o hard-wiring.

[@imhard2please503]

Ask Sonoff.... I'll bet my left & right nut every house in Australia has dozens of of items that doesn't satisfy the NCC or Australian standards

[@imhard2please503]

www.itead.cc/wiki/images/f/f7/CE_Certificate_for_Sonoff_Series.pdf

[@rahulsukumaran4815]

RavenPrecept it sure is the SAFEST place on Earth

[@casio007]

who cares about australians :D

[@bdq335]

You deserve a medal man. Thank you very very much. Learned a lot from your video. 👍🏻

[@adrianstephens56]

"I would have this on the cable first". Who has not had to say that!

[@وليدحامد-ض8ل]

🖤|^

[@وليدحامد-ض8ل]

😹😹😹💖🍻?

[@وليدحامد-ض8ل]

😹😹😹💖🍻?

[@وليدحامد-ض8ل]

😹😹😹💖🍻?

[@juanferreira5931]

Well done! A really good tutorial, clear and to the point, especially as regards safety when mains wiring is involved. One thing that came to mind was fitting a properly heatsunk 25A SSR instead of that dodgy 10A relay, or add a smaller SSR as a secondary power output, using one of the spare GPIO pins. Cheers!

[@imhard2please503]

You would most likely have to beef up the pass through circuit (mains in and out). There is a 16 amp model available. Cheaper to buy that than mod a 10amp.

[@pear7777]

Very important! There is always everywhere a chance of MAINS power on all the parts when it's connected. So please isolate everything and yourselves!!! these sonoffs are powered by rectifying mains, very dangerous.

[@michaeltoussa]

The safety part is absolutely awesome. Like the rest of the video btw. THANKS

[@leglessinoz]

The biggest problem with using these as a drop-in replacement for a light switch, is that many if not most light switches don't have both an active and neutral wire available.

[@darkpsion]

FlyJemson yeah in my country this is the case too, only have a live wire...

[@SuperHouseTV]

I've seen this many times, too. I gave a detailed solution in my reply to Alru Waldeck's comment, but perhaps I should do a video or blog post about it. The problem is common enough that it catches many people out.

[@alexcomp99]

This comment is incorrect. Disregard. He's seeing two wires connected to the switch and not realizing that they are power in and power to the load.

[@ZenMinus]

No you don't. You have the live wire to and from the switch, BUT the neutral goes to the light fitting. This device does not connect "at the switch", it is connected elsewhere in the light circuit so that BOTH live and neutral pass thought the Sonoff device.

[@MrPeterDawes]

Very thorough and I particularly like the electrical health and safety tips, not that I need them, but so easily overlooked as these products are not very safe to be working on live. Didn't realise there was so much avid following of these devices. I just bought some Sonoff kit with the view to hacking and didn't think to see first if anyone had already done so, and I'm glad to see so many people have already saved me loads of time. Thanks for this great video.

[@jimpowers9395]

An amazing amount of time and effort you put into this, you must be married to an angel:) Thank you!

[@qtin88]

Hey man, I would just like to say thanx for sharing all your knowledge from your own trials and errors to make everything simple and understandable for everyone else. It is thorough and super easy to follow and I really appreciate what you are doing and for putting me on track from the get go. Keep it up :-)

[@damirserban]

26:50 this is what concerned me the most ?!!! great video ! Subscribed !

[@alo1236546]

SuperHouseTv: For manual switch, I rewire the NClosed contact instead of Nopend contact from Relay to output. Wire your Line -> Manual switch -> Input supply Sonoff. So when power on light on, power off light off. But inverse action on app button, you should off button to light on.

[@ernestorubenuribazoarzuaga1686]

Excellent videos!!! I saw some people asking how to use a sonoff as a 2-way switch and, inspired in your toggle button trick, I think there is a solution to it. You can connect two 2-way switches like you normally do between them, i.e. L1 of SW1 to L1 of SW2 and L2 of SW1 to L2 of SW2. Then you can connect the common terminal of SW1 to GND and the common terminal of SW2 to GPIO14. That way every time that you toggle any of the two switches will produce a change to the "state", so the light will be turned on or off accordantly.

[@randommusings48]

I'm watching this in 2020. Thank you so much for the informative and concise tutorial!

[@JonathanScottNZ]

Very cools with the light wall switch being added to control the Sonoff, I've been thinking about getting some, but wondered how the light switch would work with it.

[@philbx1]

Excellent video Jonathan with great ideas and safety info. Thought watching your videos might be a good way to sleep but unfortunately this had the opposite effect! Belated thanks as I've just discovered your channel recently.

[@scottlecomte6511]

LOL, "Dodgy half assed way'. I don't know why that was so funny to me, but I was rolling. Thanks for the video. I enjoy watching.

[@L3X369]

26:33 You are my hero man! This was my biggest concern about turning to sonoff! This is the best way to combine analog with smart (my dad doesn't like the idea of needing his phone to turn on the light) but now i know how to do this almost at no functionality cost!

[@khangtruong2796]

Hi, I am a Vietnamese, so this video doesn't have subtitles so I don't understand it very much. You tell me you used this Sonoff in conjunction with the mechanical switch ok? So which pins are the legs connected to the switch? Thank you very much !!!

[@hsaturnf]

At 26:00, we can see that there is no feedback ! Lamp is switched on and the phone shows it is off. We had to press twice to switch the lamp state.

[@bob19611000]

For #3 using a momentary switch there is a way to use a SPDT switch and convert it to not only a momentary switch but have it pulse "on" for a short duration in either throw direction. This avoids the possibility of someone holding the momentary button too long and triggering the boot loader mode. Its a matter of a proper sized capacitor and relay; however once you start sourcing the parts (with the 3.3v relay being the expensive and hard to find part) you might as well pop for the SONOFF mini or the add-on board (E77 Wall Switch Connectivity Module). Given that, I haven't done it personally because it seems like more time/money than the safety it provides that someone will be malicious but it is possible . I'm not going to go into detail because there are a number of YT videos and instructions out there already; just thought I'd mention it.

[@annespacedroid]

That's really good advice. Anything with high voltage should always be in a proper enclosur!.

[@stulli42]

Im slightly shocked you forgot to mention the use of wire-end sleeves. Loose ends in screw terminals are pretty dangerous! Great video!

[@kimhammerum132]

Amazing value for me. My learning curve just went from looong to very short. Thanks a lot for your work. Much appreciated !

[@TravelThroughEarth]

Very detailed, very nice info and not only info also practical. Thumbs up!

[@ku567318]

what an excellent approach. thank you for your commitment to your passion.

[@doreenclaywalker]

What a great video. I'm just starting Domotica (for my future new house) with WeMos-ses, DHT& LDR-sensors, RPI3 with OpenHAB. Now i'm sure to buy some sonoff's to make is very smart sensors and controls. Thanks for all the tips.

[@pieterdebeer274]

I connected our bathtub and are controlling the water faucets with it. I ordered a 4channel sonoff from aliexpress and also a two water valves from a washing machine, now I control the valves with the sonoff switch. I'm also using the 12v version on our gate motors to trigger the gate to open and close.

[@htom74]

Köszönöm! Danke schön! This is an excellent video! Congratulation from Hungary and Germany as well.

[@uvman6648]

ABSOLUTELY WONDERFUL! This is exactly what I've been looking for. Thank you, thank you, thank you for this video. You now have a subscriber for life!

[@mw7185]

Go to 25:48 How do you identify those pins ( Can you put a larger picture ). This is great!

[@-Fritz-]

17:36 You could also solder a magnetic reed switch to it and activate it with a magnet, without compromising the waterproof casing you put it into.

[@ltcbio1]

Thanks for another excellent video. I am considering using the sonoff to control an outdoor water fountain pump. Although the switch will be in a dry location, I plan on putting it in a small IP rated box as you showed in your video. I am however going to remove the sonoff from the original case so that I can use a smaller box as the location is constrained by size.

[@toddmurcko4627]

Great video thank you. I have one suggestion that may appeal to the OCD crowd. I would write the code so that when you change the state of the physical light switch the status of the sonoff is changed (or unchanged) to match the light switch. Only during the status change does the light switch obtain light control, you may have to switch if off and then back on again to turn the light on, but the switch will then match the operation, Not a big deal, but again, it may appeal to those that want the wall switch to only work as normal positions.

[@SuperHouseTV]

Sure, you can do it that way. Personally I think more people would find it confusing, because if the light switch is in a state that's out of sync with the light, when someone flips it nothing will happen. They will probably think it's broken or they used the wrong switch, or flip it multiple times to figure out what's going on. I think it would be less confusing if every movement of the switch changed the state of the light so there is always immediate feedback that your action has caused some event.

[@marthamiller5877]

@@SuperHouseTV I agree. A three-way switch works that way. The feedback from a light eliminates any confusion. A device with no feedback would be another story.

[@emgab]

Excellent and comprehensive information - very well done explanation - thanks for sharing !

[@chevaliercognac8757]

very, very good video, good explanation and useful stuff. I just bought 3 sonoff from China but I didn't imagine that you can do so much with it, especially I was looking for info how to connect that light switch. Big thank you from England.

[@randallshular5362]

Just found this video. Didn't know a device like that existed that was open source. Now my curiosity is up I've got to buy some play with them. Thanks for sharing that wonderful information.

[@ronnydidit]

Awesome!! Im not using sonoffs but a couple of ESP with i/o extender for switching the relays in my house and also to read the switches states. I was wasting to much time with trying to find some suitable momentary switches for the house :D

[@matthew2800]

Newbie just looking to learn and turn a few things in the apartment "smart", great video and plenty advice

Awesome 👍. I've loved the way you presented the proper way to do the casing for it. Subscribed!

[@jims408]

Really informative and one of your best tutorials IMO. Thanks very much for putting this together and sharing!

[@huwrobertson9916]

nice video, refreshingly honest and aussie. well done mate

[@h.a.7393]

Thank you, sir, Can I program it via Arduino for Light detection sensor?. Or for controlling more than one relay?. Another important issue is it saves the last situation, i.e. after the power cut off, then returns is it returns to its previous state (ON or OFF?.

[@SuperHouseTV]

To answer your 3 questions: yes, yes, and yes. Most light sensors provide an analog signal, so you would need to use an analog input on your microcontroller. The ESP8266 only has 1 analog input, and it's very limited: it only works within a specific voltage range. It does work, though. You can also use an external A2D (Analog to Digital) converter which connects by SPI or I2C. For more than 1 relay, there are Sonoff models with 2 and 4 outputs. You can also connect extra relays using more I/O pins, and control them with transistors. I designed this board to make it easy: tron.cc/relay4. For state memory, you could write the state to FLASH memory when it changes and then check it when the program starts again. If you use the TASMOTA firmware, that feature is built in. It's controlled using the PowerOnState command.

[@jayherde0]

Consider for the wall switch - when the software senses a change of state for the switch, set the output to the new state of the switch. IE. if the switch is on and the light is off, you turn the switch off and then turn it back on. That is, if you are insistent about switch position/function being retained. And if that's the case, I'd bet there are no 3 or 4 way switches in your house ;-)

[@sparcnz]

Thank you for this video, just started buying Sonoff equipment. I will see if you have later information, as I see my BasicR2 has a different internals. At this stage not looking at a big project, just lights and power control using the BasicR2 and MiniR2, also ordered a NSPanel to play with.

[@yeahnah6468]

Awesome video. Just an FYI to anyone thinking about making a submersible sonoff. Don't, it won't work, wifi frequency can't penetrate water, even if it's only a few inches deep.

[@A2CVMAN]

Hi, Used X10 years ago, it worked. Your great videos with the new technology have rekindled my interest . Regards Peter

[@mastergx1]

10:00 Whenever I install a device like this in line, I always strip the cable down so the cpc (earth) remains unbroken. I then run that earth straight through the device, insulated of course. Sometimes this involves making notches but its the best way I can see to do it.

[@craiglarson6793]

Very useful video. Thanks. So with pin 4&14 revealed and a logic chip one could control 4 separate relays. That, in addition to the on-board relay, would enable one Sonoff to control 5 circuits! If I2C were used on 4&14, then one could control 127 + 1 devices! Holy schmoly! I've got the perfect home lighting task for this.

[@whiskeysauer]

GREAT resource! Learned so much from this one video alone. Thanks!