Superior Method for 4 Pin / G24 Socket CFL to LED Conversion with Ballast Bypass

This is way easier than many have thought possible. Limited electrical experience is necessary. The topic of "Ballast Bypass" is confusing to many. Short story: the CFL ballast is a module that converts household power to high voltage to run the CFL bulbs. The LED replacements need normal household power. Thus the ballast needs to be bypassed or simply taken out of the circuit. How to bypass the ballast is a major theme in this youtube video.
Get rid of those terrible 4 Pin CFL lights in your canned lighting fixture. Replace them with LED light trims from Costco for only $13.
In this video we overcome two big issues: 1) How to bypass the built in Ballast device that makes retrofitting 4 Pin CFL fixtures difficult, and 2) How to accomplish the retrofit from below the ceiling -- no need to crawl up into the attic space.
Ballast bypass wiring diagram shown here: www.slideshare.net/drcree/4-pi...
Link to Orange connector manufacturer: www.idealind.com/ideal-electri...

[@916ajp]

Bought these lights and realized they are not as "easy installation" as advertised. That is until I found your video. Knocked out 7 kitchen lights in just under 2 hours thanks to you. Great video.

[@braducsb2]

Wow - thank you for posting this. Seriously, thank you. I just replaced all six 4-pin recessed lights in my kitchen with LED's. That saved me at least $150 versus hiring an electrician. In the end, you were right - that was pretty easy, I needed to know how to do it. I'm going to do all of the bathrooms over the next couple of months. I would add that the push-in connectors are much better than wire nuts. If you happen to live near Lake Forest, CA I'd love to buy you a couple of quality six packs!

[@IamDrCee]

+braducsb2 I'm glad you found the video informative. I was pretty pleased to discover how to do this conversion mostly by trial and error. Good luck on the rest of your conversions.

[@kirklandelectricicnc]

Great video IamDrCee, as a electrical contractor I am amazed how you virtually removed and installed an LED retrofit kit with one hand. It makes me want to try it and beat your time.

[@leirej]

Used this method to change 15 of those annoying cfl recessed lights to led. First one took me about thirty minutes just to get my bearings. The rest took me 10 minutes each. Thank you so much for this.

[@MC-dr5kf]

Thank you so much for the very didactic video, I could not have done this without it! I just wanted to add my contribution, which might also help others: 1) For the first fixture I worked on, I pulled the can down and out like you did. However, putting it back in place was quite challenging. For the five remaining I simply pushed it in and to one side of the ballast; putting in back was so much easier. 2) The first LEDs I bought (same brand as in the video) interfered with my FM radio signal. I had to return those and look for FCC compliant LEDs, which do not have this issue.

[@metudalu1]

Thank you for this video. Followed your instruction and retrofitted my whole kitchen, hallway, and restrooms. Glad I stumbled upon this.

[@xiaoxiaog]

This video has helped me tremendously. i've been hunted by those expensive 4 pins CFLs since i purchased my house. With the help of this video, i was able to convert my first ballast to retro-fit LED today! I watched this video about 10 times, and the whole process took me 2 hours, but it was so worth it! I have no background in any sort of electric work, so it is a bit confusing at first, but the wiring diagram in the beginning really helped me to understand how it works. Many thanks!

[@d.dominguez5280]

Thank you for visually detailed and thorough video. My son and I watched it together several times and now his house is nearly all LED lite. Kudos again.

[@gee4mac]

Thanks for the video, this is exactly what I wanted to do but didn't know how to. I hate those G24 bulbs/ballasts!!!

[@kensmith8856]

Thank You for this! I thought I was going to have to go into the attic to cut out the ballasts in order to convert my 7 5" CFL can lights in my kitchen ceiling. 4 of these would have been nearly inaccessible from the attic due to a large skylight shaft and low roof line in that location. The method in the video just required a bit of patience and a bit of dexterity - but not difficult at all if you are comfortable / competent around electrical wiring. I converted all 7 cans in 3 hours - taking my time

[@dougiequick1]

Most people would not know why you chose the red for hot and blue for neutral but it makes perfect sense to me! Red is typically the lighting switch leg color (when color coded in 3wire harness etc) and BLUE is international neutral color found in many imported devices! Normally white is used in USA but since the retrofit uses existing wiring red for hot and blue for neutral is the DUHH choice for anyone in the know....

[@davereason8170]

You have demonstrated the best "How To Video" without narrative. Very well done. It is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.

[@tube95014]

Thank you very much. It was a very nice video. I just replaced one light in the bathroom. The things went smoothly with me. The ballast was broken many years ago.

[@noahthomas77]

Thanks for making and sharing this!! I've been wanting to do this ever since we redid our kitchen and the city made us use those cfl only sockets. The bulbs cost $9 and aren't reliable like advertised. This rewire was really easy, especially the second one!! Now 4 more to go!!

[@chrisstockwell9560]

You are the man thanks for the help. I pulled my can out saw all the wires and was a bit overwhelmed, not anymore!!

[@shawnkim7846]

Thank you so much for sharing a great tutorial!!!. I was able to convert 17 cfl lights to led in my house. The electrician quoted me 80 dollar per light to convert. Save me a thousand dollar.

[@IamDrCee]

So glad it was useful to you. A few years ago when we did our first conversion, there was very little on the net or tube for us DIY folks. That prompted me to post something we hoped others found useful. I no longer think every day about hating our CFL lights, now that the LED replacements just work and never need another thought.

[@TheTeeDubbya]

For me this was by far the best method in replacing my CFLs. I have some older (12+ yrs) Juno fixtures. The ballast enabled me to remove ALL the wires - sans ground - and simplify even more the connecting of the red (hot) and blue (neutral) wires. I now only have the ballast there to use as the cover for the wiring box. I also really appreciate the rescuing of the Edison socket to the Luminair connector. It was very easy to remove and re-use. Once again I have a bright kitchen. @IamDrCree - THANKS!

[@PhotoCal1]

That was perfect. Ive been trying to think how i was going to bypass the ballast. I have 20 of those dang things to do this week. Thanks so much. Calvin6

[@jasonmaner2622]

A few of my 4 pin bulbs periodically fall out of the ceiling. I’ve been dealing with it for years. Thank you for this video! Replacing it wasn’t as hard as I thought it might be.

[@johnt4525]

This video and posting saved me a lot of work... My only challenge was my cans did not have the clips to hang the new retrofit LED from Costco. So I had to fabricate the brackets.

[@iwinandrew2841]

Awesome! As I was giving up on this project, this video gave me confidence. Yes the bypass was intimidating. So I had to draw my own bypass diagram on a paper cauze I couldn't draw it in my mind. Did it successfully. Wife was impressed. Thank you for the video.

[@hugoguinan-blaney4637]

Your video was very helpful. It took me a while but the result is much better. No more 10.00 light bulbs that fail due to the hot and cold temperature changes.

[@usadaytrader]

This method worked for the majority of my can lights, but some wouldn't come out no matter what. I had to go into the attic to finish the bypass. Also, 2 of the existing cans were of different design. The ballast box was not located facing the hole. No other way but to bypass that in the attic as well. Thanks for the video. Helped a bit.

[@situationormalgolf]

Thanks for a the vid, while i have plenty of theoretical knowledge my practical electricianing is a bit light and commercial/industrial stuff doesn't always apply. Guy at Lowe's was telling me I would need an entire new fixture when I asked about bypassing the ballast. Appreciate the tutorial.

[@L45Flyingclub]

awesome video. i have 11 lights in my kitchen to convert over. I have easy attic access so will attempt thru top. less mess with blown in insulation.

[@chrisade2535]

Spot-On Video, Thank you very much! I have 6 CFL lights in my kitchen and 5 of the ballasts had failed. Instead of replacing the ballasts, I followed this video and replaced my CFLs with LEDs. The only thing I would add is that I had to get the soldering iron out and tin the wires so that they would be stiff enough to install into the "rescued" connector.

[@ryanbradford6367]

Chris Ade

[@arunwin]

Very useful and you saved me $$$ Much appreciate your effort on walking through step by step 👍✌️👍

[@tanrezaei491]

Great video! This is exactly the method I used and you did a great job pointing out some of the possible issues. Good work!

[@lextreepaisan5994]

This is a great video. I was originally going to run new wire from the attic to connect the new LED lights. But this method saved a lot of time and running wire... Thanks!!!

[@albarino6]

Thank you for the video! Well done. Those stupid four pin CFLs are expensive!

[@anudatta8224]

Thanks a lot. It is very useful guide. We have managed to change the lights at our home successfully.

[@tuanowntube]

Awesome. Thanks for the video. I am glad I ran across your video. I was about to cut out the fixture and ballast, as suggested by the other video on you tube. This is much easier and save $$.

[@JDFagan]

Now that it's 2017, 2016 Title 24 allows for E26 bases as long as you use JA8 compliant LED bulb at time of inspection..

[@grumpystiltskin]

Thanks.. very useful.. I never knew how to unclip the can from the ring.. It's annoying that CA still encourages obsolete CFL lighting and it's nice to fix it.

[@L_niel_1003]

I always return to this crappy video. It's all you need if you take the time to watch it. This is my forth one. Thanks dude.

[@ronr179]

Just finished changing out 6 fixtures using this tutorial thanks

[@davidcameron1378]

Thanks for the incredibly detailed video. Just a heads up to those who may wish to try this. The red and blue wires could not be pulled from the fixture I have. Therefore I needed a multimeter too. I chose one of each. connected them at one end then use the continuity tester to determine which two were connected from the other end. Otherwise this came off exactly as planned. I wound up going down this road because the ballast failed. This is so much cheaper than a new ballast. It will also last longer than those idiotic bulbs. I'm convinced the older ballasts require new bulbs more frequently.

[@chrispetersen4683]

+David Cameron - I replaced 4 cans using this video. It went pretty well. 1 of them was the same type as shown in the video. That one went super easy. The other 3 were tougher, but I developed a technique. These might be the type David was talking about. You need to pull out one blue and one red through the conduit built into the can. With the boxes I had, the ballast box was right in front of the electrical box and was accessible. I opened it up and was able to pull one wire out with needle nose pliers. Once one wire came out, the other one was easy. But I never would have been able to pull that wire out if I didn't open the ballast box since the wires were in some sort of clamp and then bent 90 degrees. But was totally worth it, doing the extra step. No need for a multi-meter.In regards to the last step with the quick disconnect connector, I just cut the wires close to the socket side of the adapter and put a wire nut to connect black to red and blue to white. I don't actually see the point in taking the wire out of the connector and messing with it.As is the case with any process, I got better at it with each can. The last one probably only took me about 1/2 hour.

[@shatilrafiullah7825]

Any suggestions for mitigating the drywall fallout mess? It got all over me and my kitchen. Informative tutorial with amazingly useful diagram. Thank you so much! It took me forever (3 hours 42 minutes 13.53 seconds) on my first try, including runs to Target and Home Depot because my place is wired differently, and I needed materials, but I got it done. Looking forward to doing more.

[@NorthernXP]

was doing led retrofit.... found out new room has cfl. thanks for the helpful video!

[@aaletty]

Great video. I was able to switch to a LED lamp using the ballast bypass and using a GX24Q-E26 adapter. Took me about 15 mins. Thanks. By the way, I like the background music!

[@driftingpotato]

Thank you! Followed your video and replaced our century old kitchen lights.

[@yongkim6020]

Followed your video and replaced a CFL with LED lights. Thank you!!!

[@jbuzolich]

nice video. I don't think I would have made it through that work but well done! I waited till the next CFL burned out in our mismatched kitchen and then ended up buying eight of the led bulbs with plug and play compatibility with electronic ballast CFLs. Took about five minutes total for me to switch out all eight bulbs. Mine look great too and are very bright. There is an occasional slight flicker which I'm sure is from the conversion but I don't mind.

[@venkateshjayaraman1887]

This is exactly what i needed. Wonderful video with greater details.

[@therealist1103]

Instead of music it's helpful to talk about what you are doing and explaining things for people.

[@seventyfive1]

I did this fix a long time ago, glad to hear that it's up to code!!

[@foxconner7869]

Excellent instructional video! Clear, easy to to and saved me lots of $$$. Thank you!

[@jwtcalif]

Excellent. Clearly shown process, well done.

[@frankcalderon2827]

I lowered the music and saw this video to be very well thought. Thanks 🙏 Sr.

[@jclarke85]

Thank you so very much. I'm half way though our kitchen. I thought I'd have to replace cans just to get the edison sockets. It was just great you did this it really helped me.

[@IamDrCee]

John Clarke Glad this worked for you. I can say that I have been successful using the same method to retrofit with LED my 4 inch CFL canned lights using the identical method. I thought I had all of the mercury based lights gone from the house when I discovered 4 more 4 inch units. Enjoy.

[@realjobdon]

Very nice video. Well detailed and made this task super easy. Nice work!!!

[@iwinandrew2841]

Thank you. That was an AWESOME video. I was confused in bypassing the ballast. you pulled out a red and a blue out. how to choose which one to pull. And from what i understood, you left the ballast back there to RIP. Thanks Iwin Andrew

[@dougchabot6193]

Bobby Iwin Regarding which of the 2 red wires and 2 blue wires to remove that go from the ballast to the G24 socket, pick whichever two you would like to remove. There is no right or wrong wires to remove as long as you keep one red and one blue (or one of each color if your light fixture has other colors). And yes, the ballast physically remains in place to live out a peaceful, inert life. One could attempt to remove it but why? Just leave it there.

[@MrGt7570b]

Great Guide, got me through my job in a blast.

[@jaisvikt]

Many thanks for your detailed procedure complete with explanations. You're a Mensch!

[@irakoyner4672]

thank you very much, your tips saved me a lot of hassle. i wish i watched it sooner

[@dougchabot6193]

Adam: Assuming you have bypassed the original 4 pin CLF ballast by rewiring the fixture as shown in the video, then, to connect an E27 light bulb socket, simply connect the Red fixture wire to the E27 center conductor and the Blue wire to the outer conductor of the socket. Use caution to make your connections per electrical code.

[@SiganBergFPV]

This video was very helpful. For an additional tip, you can push the CAN inside the ceiling instead of pulling it and later pushing it back. Make my conversion a lot easier for my 17 lightnings. I was battling for the first 4 lightning and on my 5th I accidentally pushed it inside the ceiling and I realized, hey I can do this instead! :D

[@IamDrCee]

SiganBerg Good suggestion to push the can upward instead of pulling it down. That should work wherever there is space above the light fixture. But for fixtures with another story above there maybe insufficient space to push the can upward. In those cases, the must come down.

[@SiganBergFPV]

IamDrCee That's true. good thing my two-story house both have ample space on each floor. :)

[@grumpystiltskin]

If the builders didn't screw them to the joists...

[@tpmadness1172]

That. was the. best. video I have ever seen. much props as you were not only able to give us perfect shots, but do it with one hand xD I can't thank you enough. to cool. New Subscriber incoming.

[@andersjohnson9565]

11:05 In my application, the blue and red wires were a thin guage that doesn't remain attached to the orange connector under mechanical load. It works well enough, but if I had to do it again, I would clip and strip the Edison connector wires and connect them to the blue and red wires with wire nuts.

[@ravenonefiveninefour7689]

Thanks. I got stuck and your vid fixed me.

[@1993s4]

Excellent job. Very informative.

[@alexanderwkt]

Life safer, your video! Thanks for uploading this!

[@jessealvarado8565]

Great video, I've wondered if there was a way to convert my CFL cans to led. I've already replaced the 6 cfl's in my kitchen once since installing them under title 24 in CA. I know there are 4 pin led bulbs out there, but my feeling is they are probably more expensive. They are not as easily found as led conversions for A lamp sockets currently flooding the market. One of the 6 just burned out and I'm glad I found your video and now can convert them with confidence.

[@cnbsdad]

You're video was a good reference. Thank you.

[@Skewbee]

Nice video outlining process. I can follow video because I have done this replacement before. But for someone who has not and is coming here to learn, some steps can are confusing (prior comment). This would be more informative if author would annotate to video. Good job!

[@sergakaserg1710]

Love the detail in the video. Exactly what I need is displayed

[@cobaltpica]

Now try repeating the steps for the next 500 lights in the office. That is much work , it’s smarter to plug a vertical philips corepro PLC LED in there,15seconds job. Corepro PLC retrofit is meant to work with the original ballasts. The wattage rating on the Corepro LED has included the power drawn by the original ballasts.

[@IamDrCee]

Most don't have 500 conversions to do. Besides, the ballast friendly direct LED replacements are less efficient and still susceptible to ballast failure and the ballast continues to generate electrical noise on the line - something that affects data rates for Ethernet over power applications. I stand by the best approach is full ballast bypass and standard 120vac LED bulbs vs the ballast adapter kluge.

[@cobaltpica]

When you uses a LED replacement designed for magnetic ballast retrofits, the ballast will be reduced to minimal ohmic losses. There will be no load on the ballast, it will happily power the LED for decades. However, your method will be necessary if the existing ballasts are already on its last legs or needed a replacement i.e. no longer able power up the original fluorescent PLC lamp. In such cases, a retrofit LED PLC is not recommended.

[@success4thee269]

Many thanks for the tutorial! It made short with of the job.

[@davidperry231]

I found your video while searching for low voltage halogen to LED conversion instructions. I have Halo H1499ICAT 4" IC housings. I can get to them from the attic, but not much head-room. I think your video has convinced me to abandon the idea and just replace the cans with line voltage LED housings. The existing boxes are not meant to come apart, and I’m guessing the wires to the fixture are not heavy enough to be used for line voltage since this is designed for low voltage halogens. Plus the 4” cans are too small to work in. If you have any other suggestions, I'm all ears. Thanks for posting the video.

[@Cordycep1]

You video really help me, but I added G24 or G24 bulb converter so keep the same socket.

[@IamDrCee]

That works too. Consider though that for certain localities your approach may not be compliant with energy efficiency codes such as California Title 24. In this example the light socket cannot accept incandescent bulbs in kitchens or bathrooms. Thanks for the comment.

[@batmanlombardo]

Thank you! this helped termendously!

[@Adamcfresh]

Great video! Thanks! If I want to just install a E27 socket for use with other LED screw base bulbs do I just connect that to the RED/BLUE wires inside the can?

[@danielramotowski5187]

Very clear instructional video. What's the name of the background song?

[@WeNeedSomeMusic]

Don't call PL Bulb fixtures ugly, you can always use a square fixture for the 2/4 pin CFL bulbs

[@b3owu1f]

Exactly what I have been looking for. As others have said, coloring of wires may be an issue. Other issue.. what if you have 2, 4, or in my case 10 lights to one switch. Is it the same rewiring process.. or as one comment discovered, one light works and others do not. Is that an issue many or coming across.. or each light can be wired the same and should all work?

[@IamDrCee]

Kevin: The quantity of recessed lights on one circuit is not really an issue. The process is the same for all light fixtures. The ballast must be bypassed at each of the light fixtures. What one needs to be carefull of when working with more than one light fixture per circuit is that there will be more than one power cable entering the light fixture junction box. All in/out power cables connections need to be maintained or, if not, the fixtures after will not work.

[@davidho6605]

Thanks for the video. Somehow I got a bit lost as I didn't know what cables are you cutting though the cables are colour coded.In case in other countries, they may not be the same colour. Perhaps it'll be good to include subtitles for ease of reference.

[@sebiroks]

excellent demo...

[@raymondray3232]

Thank you for the video, did you bypass the ballast and rewired using the existing red and blue cables so you didn't have to run new cable?

[@IamDrCee]

Yes, of the two Red and two Blue wires in my fixture from the ballast to the CFL socket, I cut off and discarded the CFL socket, and removed and discarded one Red and one Blue wire. Then I used the remaining Red and Blue wire to connect the 120v AC line power to the orange Luminair connector.

[@raymondray3232]

@@IamDrCee ,thank you

[@diydaveman]

Thank you! Nice one handed video, by the way!

[@kirklandelectricicnc]

David, I was thinking the same thing. It takes me about the same amount of time using two hands. :)

[@PaulWodarczyk]

Great Video! I will be working on the retrofit this weekend. The Wire Diagram shows the ground to the ballast to be cut, but in the video you leave it connected. Should this Ground Wire to the ballast (green) truly be cut? Thank you!

[@IamDrCee]

+Paul Wodarczyk You can cut the ballast ground or leave it without any issues or code compliance problems. It is benign either way.

[@jeng646]

This helped me so much! I did two over my breakfast bar and am trying tonwork up the nerve to do 11 more that I have in the house. Three questions:1) did anyone encounter insulation falling all over the place? Seriously a mess. 2) my cans don't have the "rabbit ear" brackets to hold the new fixture. It's working ok but not as flush to the ceiling as tightly as it could be. Any thoughts?

[@familychabot4957]

There are retrofit c-clips available for your situation. They are a bit expensive but should do the trick. www.homedepot.com/p/Traverse-Retrofit-5-in-and-6-in-Recessed-Metallic-C-Clips-14610/204367868 Also, you probably have blown in insulation. I should have cautioned folks about the mess when you pull out the can. Sorry about that. Use a large trash bag taped to the ceiling to catch most of the mess.

[@omaraguayo4401]

Great video.

[@chrisvalentine9735]

Good video. But I wish you could talk us through the process and kill the music. Everyone hates the sound of their own voice, its normal.

[@ironman3743]

Great video!!

[@oscarmoron2627]

SO FUCKING HELPFUL!!! was literally struggling with this exact problem, thank you.

[@danielramotowski5187]

Nice instructional video

[@nicholaslin6284]

you are awesome. ty so much !

[@homerlopez6057]

Nice jam.

[@ltai0001]

Great video. I did the exact same but I have a question about the red and blue wires connecting to the retrofit. Are those 18 AWG? In my case they are. Could it be a potential fire hazard?

[@IamDrCee]

RE 18 gauge red & blue wires and fire hazard. Probably ( not 100% ) OK. Yes the leads are less gauge than the service lines ( 12 or 14 gauge into the junction box ). Within the fixture, it is standard practice to use appropriately sized wire based on the expected current draw of the fixture. Assuming a 20 watt LED load on 120VAC, and Ohms laws saying I=P/E. Thus the current draw from a 20 watt LED bulb is 0.17 amps. Now 18 gauge copper wire is good for 5 amps at 120VAC. So good for go, right? The uncertainty comes from the mix and mod of a fixture from its certified state to a less thermal and less current load perspective. No one will certify the modified results. But the operational specs of the result are far below all material performance parameters.

[@rosswagner1266]

My 2008 CFLs had ballast on top of J box. Ground also came into ballast. Where does that go now?

[@L_niel_1003]

Done. Thanks!

[@abdaljaludi]

@IamDrCee, first off thank you so much for this great tutorial. I was wondering however, why i can't just connect directly to the hot (black) and neutral (white) wires directly? p.s. My light is outdoors.

[@IamDrCee]

You can connect directly to the black (hot) and white (neutral) wires. In effect, we are using the original blue / red / other wires to extend the black and white line power wires from the fixure junction box through the short, flex conduit to the light can. We are using these existing wires out of convenience.

[@abdaljaludi]

IamDrCee thank you so much for your prompt reply.

[@normajk2]

good Job !!! Thanks !!!!!

[@KennyNguyen2014]

You are the MAN!! thank you!!

[@PatrickEnstrom]

Question for you IamDrCee... I just replaced 8 kitchen CFLs using your method. Worked great and all the lights are functioning but I notice a super faint flickering when ON (regular backlit 2-way switch/not a dimmer). My wife doesnt seem to notice it. I looked for a long time online but couldnt find anything other than 'some people are more sensitive to the flicker of LEDs'. Could there be another issue? Thanks!

[@IamDrCee]

LED lights flickering is a symptom of the LEDs themselves and not the line power feeding to them. It is true that some people are more sensitive to the flicker. However, most LEDs these days should be flicker free. Any chance you have another brand LED fixture to try? Alternatively, you may have just one or two LED fixtures that are flickering. To test, unscrew each fixture and then test one at a time. See if one is the problem or if it is just the brand/model of fixtures you have. Report back how your testing went.

[@jwilliams7745]

Good job with one hand.

[@zbazz8]

This is a nice video. I found an economical alternative: buy a GX24Q-E27 adapter for $1 on eBay does the same job. It might not look as good though...

[@IamDrCee]

The adapter may mechanically work but the ballast will still be inline with the E27 socket. Thus the 120v LED light will not work with the high voltage of the ballast. If in doubt, give it a try to see why the ballast still needs to be bypassed with the solution you suggest.

[@zbazz8]

You are right, and thanks for the reminder. I meant to say that there is no need to pay for the Costco LED kit.

[@caliinthevalley24681]

zbazz8 thank you!!!

[@bigcache]

Nice, just change the slot to a ceiling fan. But I should watch your video to the end to know you reuse the wire~~~

[@yufrancis]

I can see that you only used one red and one blue wire from the pairs for the 120v AC. I wonder if these wires are thick enough to do the job. From another video I saw that the guy used both red wires and both blue wires in parallel for the 120v AC. What do you think? I am just about to replace my kitchen CFL ceiling lights with LEDs. Your instructions are most helpful. Thank you very much.

[@IamDrCee]

Only one wire of each color is required. The wire gauge of the red and blue wire is anywhere from 20 to 22 gauge. The LED light fixture is approximately 20 watts at 120VAC. Using Ohm's law where Current = Watts / Voltage we get less than 0.2 amps at 120 VAC. Per the American Wire Gauge system, a 22 gauge wire can support up to 7.0 amps of current for chassis wiring. Thus the math shows a single 22 gauge wire is sufficient ( with plenty of safety margin ) to supply a 20 watt LED luminar fixture. Use one red and one blue wire and not two of each.

[@yufrancis]

IamDrCee : Thank you very much! A single wire would be then.

[@chetanvangadi]

@@IamDrCee Randomly i can select one of blue and red wire ? and leave the other blue and red wire.

[@IamDrCee]

@@chetanvangadi Yes. Choose either of the 2 red and either of the 2 blue wires. Pull out and discard the other red and other blue wires.

[@gohard817]

How can I get this to work if I got 277v

[@ed_word_6198]

I have the 4 pin cfl lights in my kitchen but in my hallways I have the recessed lighting with the screw in bulbs should i bypass the ballast on those or just screw in the with adapters that it comes with? I’m not even sure if the hallway lights have a ballast but if they do would it be better to bypass them?

[@IamDrCee]

In your kitchen you'll need to bypass the ballast. In your hallways, if the light fixture has Edison light bulb sockets, then they are all set to go - they do not have any ballast so no bypass is necessary. Just screw in the retrofit LED assembly into the Edison socket using the Edison adapter that the LED assembly came with.