Superworm Pupation - How to get Superworms to Pupate - Superworm Pupa - Superworm Pupating

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Okay guys! Coming to today with a more in depth video on superworm pupation! Recently, I've been asked quite a few questions in the comment section about pupation so I figured I'd provide a better explaination than I did in my Super Worm Breeding Guide and give a few examples. Afterall, it was my first video and I could have done a lot better on it, however, it is by far my most viewed video. So this video is my 100 subscriber special. I only planned 4 videos this month, but since hitting this milestone, and the various questions I've been asked, I decided to whip this video up for you guys and thank you for the journey with me thus far.
Let's start with picking worms and how I go about doing it. I isolate the worms I feel are large enough into a bin alone and feed them fresh every day. I don't exactly measure them, I just kind of eye ball it. Ideally, you want them to be a bit plump and quite long. I've gotten used to it doing it, I rarely have to put worms back because I chose ones that were not ideal. To increase your chances of having all of your worms pupating, provide them with a constant supply of veggies a few days, preferably weeks, before pupation. This helps them get fat and store up a lot of moisture for their metamorphasis. If you are having problems with your worms not always pupating, try this, and I can almost gaurentee that you will have better results.
I placed around 30 worms into isolation this round. I've seen a lot of debate on what causes them to pupate. The channel LeopardGecko has a good video on this where she proves several different conditions work, and the one thing that remained the same across all of her pupation conditions was : Isolation. Her video is linked below if you want to know what and how she tested it.
Ideally, you want worms approaching 1.5"-2". The second biggest factor is how fat they are. I don't suggest trying to cause the worm to pupate if it is long enough but isn't a little fat. This is a good comparison. This worm is nice a chonky boy and is ready to become a beetle. I wouldn't bother with this one until it was larger. Just keep feeding them until they grow big and fat. You want to have a healthy beetle.
So these are my jars after the worms have pupated. I have since added new worms into the cycle, and as you can see, they are in the condiment cups from my previous video. Some of the worms have yet to pupate, though sometimes I have to put a few back. If it goes on longer than a week and half before curling up into a C, I place the worm back and let them grow.
The worm will stay in the pupa stage for a few weeks. It will slowly darken over time. You can use this to predict which will hatch first. As the legs and eyes get darker and darker, more features of the beetle can be seen more clearly. I do not have any complete footage of a beetle emerging, but I do have one starting to work its way out. Once out, they are done.
I've read that you can apparently sex them in this stage. I'm going to be showing close ups for a moment of the area, to my understanding, that you are supposed to be able to tell the sexes apart. However, they all basically look the same to me, so I think I'm either looking in the wrong spot or the info I read was wrong. Their faces have not developed enough at this point to use my method either, at least until they mature further along. I'll have to try some time. But I will be sexing this entire batch of beetles in another video, after they hatch, along with setting up a small colony that has a controlled ratio of females and males of 3-1. I'm planning on starting the colony off with 16 beetles, 12 females, 4 males, and expanding in a few months with a follow up video of their yield vs my larger colony of over 100 members. I will be comparing the cardboard collections of both colonies and looking at the egg density. That's all I have for today guys without dragging the video out too long. If you have it in your insect loving heart, give me a like, a subscribe, and hit the bell icon for more videos like this in the future. And as always, from the Gizards and I. Have a wonderful, day.

[@birdybirdy9825]

Good job KC! I’ve been watching you for awhile and I learnt a lot! Thank you so much!

[@KCExotics]

The thanks goes to you my friend! You guys keep me going. Just uploaded a new video. I'm gonna try 1 more before the end of the year. Have and great and wonderful day!

[@BerzerkerGod22]

Thanks so much for the information very informative and appreciated

[@FangsLegs]

I used your advice about the fatness being more important than length. Worked great. Way less returnees 😏

[@KCExotics]

Glad I could help!!! Fatty worms are the best to pupate! Chonkers are what i like to call them

[@Anon_E_Muss]

This is so cool. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! I just received my kit today, really appreciate all your content!

[@KCExotics]

Best of luck and do not be afraid to ask any questions in the comments ^^. I try to address everyone who comments within a few days. I appreciate your time! It is what keeps me moving along! From the gizards and i, have a wonderful day!

[@timbolfarmbelle]

Short vid, no more long talk, thumbs up!

[@KCExotics]

How long would you suggest? 3 minutes? 5 minutes?

[@matggarcia]

I tried this time around selecting by mass instead of diameter with tremendous success. Selecting 10 fatties at a time if those 10 end up being more than 8 grams then they are put aside with others to be pupated.

[@GummiQueen]

perfection! told me what i needed to know, what i wanted to know and with very little fluff! thumbs up and sub yes yes!

[@KCExotics]

Thank you so much!!!

[@FangsLegs]

Also, I learned to sex them from your channel. Thank you! I’ve become more and more obsessed with raising these, even though I have only one gecko.

[@KCExotics]

You are on the same path as me my friend ^^. I love my geckos but I think I love my bugs more.

[@ricks2907]

Thanks buddy cheers Ricky 💃🕺💃🕺🎵🎶🐈‍⬛🎸

[@KCExotics]

Cheers!!!

[@matggarcia]

What thickness do you recommend to select worms for isolation, awesome channel!

[@KCExotics]

I prefer 4.8-5.5mm. As time has gone on, I've learned you can force the pupation process sooner than that, however, the beetle will be small. I'm unsure how this affects reproduction, if at all.

[@matggarcia]

@@KCExotics thats great info, 5.4's then for me, only the fattest will do! Just started superworms, fantastic resource channel this, even if you didn't make anymore videos, all the info is here.

[@KCExotics]

@@matggarcia its hard to make the videos with my current living conditions. That is mostly why there has been an extreme drought in content. I have something coming up, but it isn't anything special. Anyhow, I greatly appreciate the views and comments :). I could update a few things that I have learned since making some of these videos, but i don't want to flood my channel with remakes. I've done a few, but yeah. Thank you so much! I actively watch my channel, so I do my best to react and respond to as many comments as I can. Thank you again! There will eventually be videos on the regular. Just no clue when.

[@marthaorozco3948]

I had five superworms pupate without me even knowing what that was lol.

[@aaabbhddgf]

Thank you for your guides! Where did you get those little clear jars?

[@KCExotics]

I got them from my fiancee. She is unsure where she got them, i have since moved to deli cups and jewelry boxes.

[@aaabbhddgf]

@@KCExotics thank you, deli cups are now on my shopping list!

[@crisiants]

Hi cassey

[@hspets4467]

Hi. Just wanna ask. I feel a bit cruelty to force pupate, because some may die hungry. May i know how long would it take to pupate if superworms that r kept with food/water?

[@KCExotics]

If you are having a lot of die off from pupation, you are placing Worms that were not fed well or large enough for pupation into isolation. If you follow this videos recommended size for pupation, you will have an above 90% survival rate. Sometimes they don't pupate correctly. That can't be avoided. But as long as the worm is above 1.5inches long, and fat, it will become a beetle. I do sets of 80 every month and maybe 1 dies, getting stuck crawling out of its worm skin. You can put food in there if you want. It may take it longer to pupate, however, isolation is the only common factor whether or not their is no food or food. I personally don't place food as I see it as unnecessary. I'd suggest picking your largest, fattest Worms. If they are not fat, you risk them dying. Best of luck my friend and feel free to ask anymore questions.

[@patriciabinker6485]

How do you house/store the superworms after placing them in individual containers? I assume complete darkness and do you keep them at 80 degrees??? I am new to this and tried using a egg incubator cabinet using a infrared ceramic reptile heater with a small desk fan to circulate the air over a container of water and after 2 weeks there is no sign of pupation and the larvae appear to be shrinking/some exfoliating. I only waited 3 days from receiving them before selecting the fattest. Could that be my problem? They aren't dying so I will put them back in a wheat bran substrate and feed them carrots to see if they fatten up again.

[@KCExotics]

I literally keep mine on a book shelf in my room. This video is a little dated, as I've learned things since it's creation. I've learned light/dark doesn't matter and as long as the temp is around 70 or higher, they will be fine, however, 80 is more ideal. Unless you live somewhere cold and do not heat your house, I do not advise a heating bulb. A heating bulb is going to drastically reduce the humidity. I know a bowl of water will raise it, it's just extra steps and power usage that is not nessary. A small heating pad would be ideal, something like the small reptile ones by zoo med. As I said, I do not think it's a requirement unless your home doesn't stay above 70. I live in the sunshine state, so it's rarely below 30 even on the coldest nights. A 200iq move is if you have space, like a drawer under your reptile enclosure, you can actually place them under it and the heating pad will warm the drawer. Anyhow. It may be due to size. I'm not sure if this video measured them, but one of my videos do. Maybe "how to count superworms" on my channel has that info. The ideal worm size is above 1.5 inches long, and 4.8+mm wide. I used a caliper to measure them. The worm being fat and having recently had moist food is the largest factor. Even if the heat is right, they may not pupate below that size. I may do an update to this video and go over how I do it now and what I have learned. Sorry for the novel, no easy way to explain things without a good old brick :). If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask! You can contact me directly through [e-mail] Or by my Facebook group Kc's mealworm, superworm, and discoid roach knowledge center. The group has a lot of breeders that are more than willing to assist! Myself included. Have a wonderful day.

[@patriciabinker6485]

@@KCExotics WOW! You are so generous to take the time to clearly reply to my questions with your vast experience. I don't have reptiles, I have peafowl that I want to be sociable and come when I call. Mealworms are not only too small, but because they pupate so easily, I feel they are too much work. The superworms seemed a better choice so I want to try raising them. I came across your videos AFTER I had watched others and ordered 1000 of them. I thought they looked pretty fat and they seemed close to 2" long. It was this group I tried separating using condiment

[@patriciabinker6485]

cups and placing them in the cabinet incubator at 75 to 80 degrees with a fan and water. I have since purchased another 1000 from a different source and have had them for almost 2 weeks now feeding them shaved carrots and kale. They are extremely active compared to the first shipment. I am anxious to try again with them and feed out the first batch who seem to be shrinking. They are continuing to exfoliate. Thank you for your help.

[@4dobo]

Not sure if im just rushing it too much but as i can see, my worms are just shedding not curling. Is that normal?

[@KCExotics]

How long are you waiting? It can take upwards of a week sometimes before they curl up. Sometimes they will molt/shed once before they do, so that is fairly normal. They also need to be kinda long, I aim for 1.5inchs or bigger, and be nice a plump. I do it by eye, but thats because I've been doing it a little while. If they are not curling up, and you are isolating like 10 of them and none do it, they still need to grow. The worms should be about 3-4 months old. My clutch in august/late july is almost ready to start pupating. If you want to send me some photos of your worms, I may be able to tell you if they are too small. You can send them to [e-mail]. The entire pupation process takes over a month to complete in most cases, give or take a week or so. Let's say your worm takes 1 week to turn into a C. It will take about another week for it to form into a pupa. It will then take another 2-3 weeks for the pupa stage. So, best case scenario, around 1 month. Worst case, month and a half. But it also depends on how warm they are, the closer to 80F you can get, the faster they will grow. Heat speeds everything up with insects. Hope this helped in some way!

[@4dobo]

I checked them every two days, i guess im just really too excited sorry i blame this to the one superworm here that suddenly turned into a pupae while i thought it was dead, i separate the dead ones to another container and waits for them to be black just to make sure their dead. Ill give them a week this time and see if anything changes. Big thanks for being really informative about this. Im really interested with the transformation process, really cool

[@KCExotics]

I may try to capture it fully once I have better equipment! Best of luck! It's a game of patience and you will gain that over time. I was just like you lol. Checking every day haha. I've calmed down a lot and I'm not constantly in my bug room. I'm making a video, took a break due to mental health, but I have how to count them coming soon!

[@4dobo]

Ooooh i will look forward to that. A timelapse of an actual worm turning pupa. That will be sick to watch.

[@KCExotics]

@@4dobo I'd love to actually do that but I film everything with my phone. I need to get a camera at some point. Just buying things for the insects first lol. I'll eventually do it. However. There are some videos out there like that! So you don't have to wait for me to do it :). I appreciate your support!

[@edisonnunez7646]

do you need to feed them while they are in the jar being pupate?

[@KCExotics]

No! They are basically stuck there until they finish. Its important to feed them well before you isolate them so they had enough to make it :)

[@edisonnunez7646]

@@KCExotics what inches do they pupate? I only buy superworm for my arowana..but i think i over bought.. b'coz they are 450pcs.. thats why im thinking to breed before they all die.. my arowana is still small ang 9inch.. it cant consume all 450pcs..hehehe

[@KCExotics]

@@edisonnunez7646 1.5-2 inches and a little fat! Put them in a cup and start the process. It takes about 1 month!

[@edisonnunez7646]

@@KCExotics i see.. i have 1.5-1.7 inch but its been 3days..they are not sill fat..can u put them on the cup and put food inside the cup?

[@edisonnunez7646]

@@KCExotics and can u help me with my problem.. they have many watering fruits and vegstable.. but i think they are eating each other

[@dracodracarys2339]

Is it possible for superworms to pupate while they're in the container with many others? I noticed some would pupate and I'd remove and isolate them as soon as possible to avoid cannibalism. But then there's this other problem: they'd develop normally for a week or two, but then once it comes time to emerge the beetle sort of...gets stuck in its pupa skin? And it's able to move its legs but its wing cases stay crumpled up and it usually doesn't survive long. I keep getting these "stuck" beetles. Does it have anything to do with them pupating even without isolation?

[@KCExotics]

Yes, it's possible. You likely have eggcrates or some structure in there they can climb onto. Those I believe didn't get enough moisture before starting the process. I'd get 2 or 3 out of 120 that ended up like that. It's best to mercy kill them because they will not survive.

[@trenaebowers1968]

It's possible, but for best results you are going to want them to be separated with no food If they sense that they are still in a "utopia" they are not going to feel the need that you want to the next stage If you keep all the worms together and with an ample supply of food it will take forever for them to turn into beetles

[@idkmyname12]

I had a superworm, it was a very unique superworm compared to many other superworms. It knew how to properly climb up sticks, and had many abilities. So I put it in a short container I had put another superworm in to start pupatating, it kept getting out and I put a cover on it. So anyways it, eventually curled into the C and was still curled, but alive, and I was still waiting for it to become a pupa, which was quite a while. Yesterday it still was not a pupa, but it was in the process still, but it was really moving in the curled state, sometimes it'd go upside down while sorta curled. And I took some pictures and a sort video. I woke up today and my siblings must have come into the room, because I had both the worm and the pupa in a big container with a "Do NOT TOUCH" on a piece of paper outside it. The container was on the floor and the pupa which had already had some black was dead on the floor by my mattress. I'm not sure where the worm is. My sister has a container of worms that I let her have that are not pupatating. *Could this superworm "woken" up and walked around like a regular superworm, or is it still curled somewhere?*

[@KCExotics]

Oh no! Yeah it is certainly a thing that sucks to lose one of your babies. Quick question about the temp in your home. If the area you are keeping your worms/pupa/beetle in, if its not around 75 up to 80f, the beeltes can stop reproducing, and the worms/pupa can die. Pupa must be kept 100% isolated, or worms/beetles will consume them. Which will leave blackened areas on the pupa. It's kinda like where they bleed. Out of 100 beetles, I may have 1 or 2 that do not make it. As far as pupation goes. Remember you want them to be around 1.5-2inches long and kinda fat. It can take up to a month for them to pupa from a worm in the C shape, as well as going through their pupa process. Thank you for sharing your experience! I hope things go better with your next attempt!!!

[@idkmyname12]

@@KCExotics Thank you a lot! The worm has become a pupa and was recently found in a box. It's skin was attached too. And it is inside the house, which is in the 70s in temperature.

[@Jeipillow]

69 likes yes

[@i_dont_like_it8941]

I think I got a super worm in my mealworm container is that normal?

[@KCExotics]

Depends. Do you keep superworms? Or did you buy the mealworms and got a superworm with it? Could just be a mistake. However, in the end, there is no conflict between mealies and supers and they can live side by side

[@i_dont_like_it8941]

@@KCExotics I got a thing of mealworms and it’s much much darker then all the other mealworms and I just got it out to put in a container to pupate because it was doing the c and it started breakdancing on my hand I think it’s just a very dark mealworm

[@KCExotics]

@@i_dont_like_it8941 it could possibly be a Buffalo beetle larvae. They look like mealworms and are dark.

[@i_dont_like_it8941]

@@KCExotics like very dark brown at both ends and normal looking in the middle?

[@i_dont_like_it8941]

@@KCExotics I just googled them and I have another worm that looks like them but it isn’t hairy

[@ColossalSwordFormAndTechnique]

When obesity wins 🤣

[@Isa-sb9jn]

Think growing up Is hard,?, superworms have it worse; much worse Imagine being just a child and the only way for you to grow up into an adult was to be locked away in an empty purgatorial room, isolated in the dark and forgotten for years Time creeps by so slowly that it is no longer valid, the difference between day and night seem to mix and scramble together and every second of every day is a never-ending torment session of not knowing where you are and not knowing when or if you will ever get food again

[@KCExotics]

Interesting thought! However, superworms self isolate for this process. Once they reach the size of maturity, a superworm will dig down into the earth and begin its pupation process. Human isolating is just speeding the process up. With how they are raised, the superworms would never reach adulthood due to the density of worms ( survival instincts ) At the end of the day though, I don't think our little buggy friends have a concept of time hehe. Thank you for your comment!

[@Isa-sb9jn]

@@KCExotics there was a study done on flies They perceived flickering lights that were much faster than we could see you one second, they could see over 200 flashes per second This means that time passes for them in slow motion which is why it's hard to swat them The lack of food supposedly stresses them out and causes them to cocoon If they were kept isolated but with plenty of food they would take much longer to turn into a beetle

[@KCExotics]

Idk about flies, I don't breed them. However, you are incorrect about food vs no food for the pupation process. All pupate at roughly the same rate. I had an idea for a video on this topic, I didn't think it would be interesting. I have raw footage that I can perhaps make into a short if you would like. Light. Dark. Food. No food. Water. None of this matters for pupation conditions. *disclaimer: moisture is extremely important before isolation* The only common factor for the pupation process is isolation or a place where the worm can feel safe ( atop an egg crate is possible in a populated bin ). In the end, insects may or may not have perception of time. I cannot form an opinion on the matter, i lack the proper information at the current time. Nevertheless, the larvae will seek these conditions regardless. At what age they will do this, I am unsure of. I have seen quite small worms pupate, and large worms are almost 100% pupation ready. If yoy would like another source other than myself, the channel leopard gecko has a portion of a video that covers this exact topic, with an extremely small sample size, however, does show that all will pupate. The sample size I intended to do was 30+ superworms in isolation with bran, and 30+ without, and show the results. While this sample size is still too small, I am incapable of doing it large scale, but we can get an idea either way. Tell me what you think!

[@trenaebowers1968]

​@@KCExoticsthe slow motion World thing applies to all insects and even small animals