Surf Simply's Question Time: Back Foot Heavy & How Beaches Handle Long Period Swells

In this week's episode of Question Time Harry addresses the phrase, 'back foot heavy', and what it means to modern surfing, and then covers the meteorology & bathymetry question of what effect does the sand and beach have on long or short period swells.
Original Questions:
How do you know for sure if you are back footed, front footed or neutral? And how should it affect your board/ shape amd fin choice? I'm talking about advanced shortboard surfing specifically - Beufah.
Why is it where I live in Ne York, most beaches generally close out with anything over 10 seconds period, however in Costa Rica or MExico (Puerto Escondido), they easily handle longer period swell? - Tom Schelling.
Ru's Quick Tips episode on back foot position: • Surf Simply's Quick Ti...

[@turbolad99]

The ladder weight distribution concept absolutely blew my mind. So valuable! I've been shifting my weight back to initiate turns but I've been always stalling out before I could complete a full manoeuvre particularly cutbacks. I had been blaming the small summer waves but I think think I'm not on rail enough when shifting my weight back. My next question: When surfing short boards should I be shifting my back foot not just back but also to the back rail that I want to initiate the turn? My approach so far has been to keep my foot central on the back foot pad but apply pressure on my toe or heal depending on backside or front side. So should I instead be aiming to move my foot back and slightly to one of the rails depending on the turn I want to make? I've struggled when trying to go backside or do a front side cutback to put weight on my heal to initiate the turn and wonder if I should be doing this. Would massively appreciate your thoughts on this! Thank you again for all the incredible content you've posted so far!

[@heidelbergaren5054]

Very, very good question that a lot of people are waiting for an answer to ...

[@frewuill]

Thank you, the back foot and rails explanation was very helpfull to me. 🙏🏽

[@SurfSimply]

Great to hear!

[@kellymorales4985]

All your physics information is amazing, with my engineering back ground it has all made great sense to me now. After 44 yrs. Of surfing and having about 30 boards shaped to my specs. Now I completely understand why my boards work so well and I never go home upset or grumpy. I always have fun even on days when many surfers won’t even go out! Your videos are “Crackin Peachy Info” thanks again! 😆🤔💪🤙

[@othman3192]

Thank you so much, I never understood why my rail was digging sometimes and you helped me figure it out.

[@nicolekelly8645]

Consistently informative and insightful content. Thank you !!!!!

[@ryanamesbury211]

Hi Harry, hello from a flat and miserable east coast of Scotland. Thanks so much for all of the insight - both here and of course on the podcast. I’ve got a question, though I guess it might be a bit late for the next episode. I’ve heard you guys mention a few times how unhelpful it can be when people get frustrated at themselves during a surf. I personally think that the ‘mental game’ is something that has a huge influence on how well I surf, and I seem to do best when I can just let go (of expectations at one end of the spectrum; of fear at the other), and ideally see the whole experience as a form of play. That definitely isn’t always the case. So to the question(s): Do you think that we should put as much effort into our mental approach as we do to into our technique or our fitness? What might some drills be? Is this perhaps even something that could form part of the Tree of Knowledge?

[@tylercouto3644]

These are great videos! I'm learning a lot :)

[@SurfSimply]

Glad to hear it Tyler!

[@al-dorifto1631]

I'm glad I'm not the only person that puts to much weight on the front foot lol. But over 10 years of doing it, it's so hard to get the weight on my back foot especially if I'm leaning forward. And for some reason I can't think when I'm actually surfing, I think it's cuz I'm trying to get the longest ride possible lol but yea I suck when it comes to carving :( lol

[@boltup5566]

Lesson of the day: move to Costa Rica.

[@SurfSimply]

It certainly helped my surfing! Will

[@selbalamir]

Great insight. Really helpful for my windsurfing too.

[@SurfSimply]

Glad it was helpful!

[@selbalamir]

@@SurfSimply Pretty much all your videos are really relevant for wave sailing too

[@ogp8589]

Great video as always Harry! Would the ladder still apply for a level 4 surfer turning off the rocker instead of off the rail? Or would you want to bury the rail in that case? I would love to see a breakdown of turning off the rocker. Thanks! P.S. love the podcast and love this new video series P.P.S I don't mean to imply that a level 4 surfer will always turn off the rocker, just want to acknowledge that it's an advanced type of turn

[@davidschindewolf]

Could you discuss board selection relative to short period vs. long period swell?

[@doug5372]

There videos are fire thank you

[@SurfSimply]

Glad you like them!

[@tomschelling6814]

Awesome, thank you so much! That makes perfect sense. Am I correct then in thinking that after a few long period swells (as hurricane season begins in New York for example), that ends up shifting the sand bars around, it's possible that the beaches might then be temporarily more accommodating to the longer period?

[@SurfSimply]

Absolutely Tom! Thanks for watching the videos :)

[@shugo33]

Mahalo Harry!

[@lucas.andion]

Congrats for all your videos you give wonderful insights on the surfing world! My question: Many times on my 8' foamie, 7' minimalibu or 6'6 evolutive I feel like I put my feet way up the board. I try, as you say to have my weight as centered as possible when I want to go fast.... but I can't seem to find the sweet spot for my weight on the back to make turning easier. Any tips on this? Even on my "short-ish" board I never find back foot even near to the traction pad (I know it's kind of useless for boards longer than 6') but I think not being able to be closer to the back without breaking so much that I loose the wave it's making turns harder for me. I tried everything, from moving my feet while I ride the wave to leaning forward from a more "backwards" position so I can move my weight... but nothing seems to work as I expected. Sometimes I find a sweet spot that kind of lets me pump and do little turns, but most of the time I find myself jumping up and down the board.

[@SurfSimply]

Hi Lucas, Put a towel or rug down on some slidy floor, and imagine you are wearing snowboarding bindings and strapped to a snowboard. Attempt to 'thrust' the board/ rug forwards by compressing into a squat, and then releasing and throw the hands and shoulders forwards. This is a good dry land drill to practice pumping. Enjoy!

[@lifeshuk]

extremely useful when you draw the foot stance position (Y)(Y)(Y)(Y)(Y)

[@jamiemacmahan3417]

A question about this. I am still relatively new to surfing, but I am going for it. Recently I got two new boards with relatively similar volume. I have to trial and error to recognize differences and appreciate what works or doesn't work. One is long and skinnier, and the other short and wider. I was surprised how balanced the shorter board was relative to the longer board after catching the wave. The longer board can be a bit more difficult at times. I believe this is associated with the board width. My question - does the ladder width increase or decrease with board width (is the sweet spot bigger or smaller or neither)?

[@clarat.5836]

Super interesting! Thank you so much Here's my question: is there an indicative ratio between surfer's weight and board volume when approaching duckdiving for the first time (given that a) good technique allows you to duckdive even longboards and b) the surfer's fitness level makes a huge difference) ?

[@SurfSimply]

Fitness will likely always make a difference, particularly when using certain muscle groups from the core and legs during a duck dive. Burpees and squats help to grow those muscle groups, which may help during a duck dive.

[@emmanuell3548]

Great video Harry! Thank you for sharing! Question for you: what will be the difference in waves between a 3ft at 6 sec and a 3ft at 12 sec swell assuming that the beach can handle both?

[@Morlouda]

Emmanuel L power

[@bh2861]

3ft at six seconds will be a weak wind swell, with waves will minimal push and burgery also, probably messy and unorganised due to local winds being the swell source. 3ft at 12 seconds is long period energy, better, thicker and more powerful and groomed/organised waves that come from a low pressure system well off the coast, which may mean clean offshore winds on the coastline

[@emmanuell3548]

Sean - P thank you! What about size wise? Does a 3 feet 12 sec translate into a 5-6 ft wave? And the 6sec one 1 to 3ft type of thing?

[@GreenPinkyHI]

They'll both be 3 feet, but the lines, power, cleanness, rideability would be different...

[@bh2861]

@@GreenPinkyHI no 3ft at 12 seconds will more than likely hit the back alot harder and Jack up to 4-6ft

[@heidelbergaren5054]

If I were to take a sharpie and mark the ”blue dot” on my softboard - how would I confidently find out where that is ?

[@ceeweedsl]

I saw a great tip, I think from Rob Case (Paddling Guru) is to get into calm water, a pool, on your board and find the point in your position where a movement forward down with your head/torso will tip you down and than pulling back up will tip your nose up. That is the balance point. Where we get the most control for entering the wave too. Gotta work on it myself.

[@mikuo7258]

What’s type of board is best to progress on for an intermediate?

[@SurfSimply]

That depends on a number of factors, using a higher than generally recommended volume will give you surplus stability and speed to practice and repeat techniques will always give you an advantage to progress. Also recognizing the white water as a tool again to repeat certain techniques like carves. As for a particular surfboard, something full in the nose and tail width will allow you to catch more waves and have more speed when up and riding, again to help with speed and stability. Also watching yourself on film can help to highlight areas of improvement in your stance, like how tall you are or feet position. Good luck in your progression!

[@greenhydra2812]

bofa deez nuts

[@jaydickey1049]

Perhaps overcomplicating things a bit..........

[@miguelprazeres8881]

Maybe invest on a better mic? Is really good content but is really annoying to hear u talk for so long with this quality

[@emmanuell3548]

I did not have a problem with the sound quality

[@Darren-ot2zb]

an apple earphone mic is better than this

[@rantes100]

Sounds fine to me

[@doug5372]

there's a bit of an echo, ive heard worse

[@SurfSimply]

Thanks for the recommendation guys, we will look into the sound issue! Thanks for watching :)