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Lots of people know that I broke my back surfing Pipeline in 2015, but ive never told my version of the story. Pipeline is an incredible wave but very dangerous at the same time, and since my injury ive gotten past the mental block and learned a lot in the process.
Fillm/Edit
Tomo McPherson
@tomomcphoto
Surfers
Leonardo Fioravanti
@leofioravanti