Suzuki Forenza with Broken Timing Belt - Part 1 (Timing Cover Removal)

[@stuzman52]

Usually, I work on all of my vehicles, but in this particular case, I sent the work out to the dealership because of time constraints. And from what I can see after reviewing the videos is that the tensioner bolt loosen allowing the tensioner tab to move which of course puts slack in the belt. And then the belt just walks off the pulleys. I just feel a lot better working on my cars because I know what has been done. I'm sure you feel the same way. Thanks Dave!

[@diegoveguillabarreto3246]

Thanks for posting this group of videos. I was kind of rusty,I got all the precautions and reminders to get the job done right. Now my old car it's running like a champ. I really appreciate it.

[@stuzman52]

+Diego Veguilla Barreto You're quite welcomed Diego and glad to hear that your car is running great!

[@robertridgeway2628]

By far one of the best DIY videos for a car I have seen. Great explanation, great videography, great all around. 10/10 stars

[@stuzman52]

Thank you Robert!

[@jimmyhenson88]

I love this video. This is an excellent instructional video. My oldest daughter (27 years old), who has always been around tools but never spent a whole lot of time working on cars has followed this video and been able to get most of this done while I was sleeping. After working 11 days/nights in a row with no time off, I came home and collapsed into my bed for some much needed rest. My daughter said this is the best video instruction she has seen due to the way it explains things and zooms in to show exactly what part is being referred to. Now that I have gotten some sleep, I can take over and complete this job in much less time.

[@jimmyhenson88]

Got it all apart now and have at least 8 bent valves ... bummer.

[@davidevans4743]

The 18 videos you uploaded on the Suzuki Forenza worked really well for me. The only problem I had was getting the timing belt and tensioner to "work together". I found that if I put the belt on then adjusted the tensioner it would lose it's tension after rotating the crankshaft. Finally I had to tighten the tensioner after moving the crankshaft just a hair several times before the tensioner would stay where it needed to be. But besides that everything was spot on. Thanks again.

[@stuzman52]

+David Evans Glad to hear David that everything worked out for you and thanks for dropping in and leaving a comment!

[@stuzman52]

I'm over here in GSO, NC and trust me, the prices are the same everywhere. Just take your time and you'll be fine with the job. It's one of the easiest timing belt changes out there.

[@toyotoe3732]

Thank you for this excellent comprehensive series. Very informative. Thanks also to your wife for the camera work.

[@stuzman52]

Thank you toyo for the kind remarks. I'll be sure to tell the wife about her camera work.

[@johndavis6197]

Just kidding........ everything works great! Many thanks for producing this video series, this was a fun project for me and your calm and detailed instruction was invaluable. (And to the missus, the camera work was spectacular !)

[@stuzman52]

Sorry John for the delay as KZbin did not contact me. You are quite welcomed and glad to hear your project was a success.

[@jasonalfandreiii672]

Thank you so much for this very thorough series. My son and I just finished with this project on his Forenza. We are forever indebted to you good sir. Thanks so much for putting this together and sharing your wisdom with us.

[@stuzman52]

Glad to hear Jason that the videos helped you and your son out. Wishing you and your family the best!

[@MikeHaduck]

just want to let you know I watched your video and changed my belt , water pump etc, about 3 weeks ago, everything went great, drove already 500 miles. first time I worked on a front engine car. you make great videos,, keep it up. thanks, mike

[@stuzman52]

It's always great to hear folks like yourself Mike that's worked on their cars and done things for the first time. I'm glad to hear that everything went well for you and thank you for the kind remarks about the videos. Take care.....

[@stuzman52]

Hi Bob. I don't blame you for doing it yourself. Look what happened to me. I had the dealership change the belt and it only lasted 40,000 miles along with bent valves. Just take your time and you'll be okay. Just review the videos and if you have any questions of where something is not clear, just holler out. You can probably start with the broken belt video and then move over to the timing belt install video. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[@stuzman52]

Hi Brad, glad to hear that you got your daughter's car timing belt changed. After I put everything back together I didn't get any check any light or code. On the P0507, it's saying that the idle speed is higher than what the PCM wants. With that code, you want to look around for any vacuum leaks by looking for the obvious split hoses, hoses off, etc. If you don't have a smoke machine, you could use some propane or brake cleaner. Be careful, they're flammable. Afterwards, you could do a cont)...

[@darryloxtoby3526]

Thanks for the great videos. My sons car is making steam (burning antifreeze) out the tailpipe so need to remove the head. Hopefully just need to machine the head and new gasket. I’ve review your series and will take a lot of the learning on the fly out of the process. I’ve done a head on a 2010 dodge caravan and this looks to be a bit easier. Thanks again! One of the best KZbin home handyman videos I’ve seen.

[@stuzman52]

Good luck on your repair!

[@darryloxtoby3526]

stuzman Well I finally got mine all done 5 months later. When I pulled the head off #4 cylinder had some scoring. I was that deep into it I pulled the engine, bored, oversized pistons, etc. Started it up and runs great after it burned all the antifreeze out of the exhaust. On a small engine like this I think it would actually be easier and faster to pull the whole engine even for the head job assuming you have an engine lift. Anyways thanks again the videos were great especially above the block.

[@stuzman52]

Hi Bill! The best place that I found the cheapest parts was at RockAuto dot com. I bought the head gasket kit, head bolts, valves, valve guides, water pump, tensioner, idlers and timing belt from these guys. For the specialty items like cam bolts, crank bolt I bought that from an online Suzuki dealer. If you're just changing the belt, pump, tensioner and idlers, be sure to get the kit which includes everything. The one that I used was from Gates which came from RockAuto. Hope that helps you out!

[@stuzman52]

Thanks Jamar for the comment on the videos as I appreciate it. Yes, with two valves bent, (they would be open even if you can't see it) and four open valves, then that car is not going to start. Time for the machine shop or another reconditioned head. Good luck on your repair.

[@darrincrown5703]

Great video - my belt didn't beak but is well past the need of replacement. What are the chances of the belt jumping because the car basically died it was like a switch was turned off. I removed all of the spark plugs and there seems to be no compression with the spark plugs re installed and engine turning over it sounds weird like nothing is there. The belt still seems tight.

[@stuzman52]

If you're lucky you can just put on a new belt if the valves aren't bent. Usually, some valves do get bent. It's usually cheaper to pull the head and send it out to a machine shop and they can do the work for you compared to buying a new head. Of course, you could get one from the salvage yard, but you should have a machine shop to verify its condition. Also, it's a good idea to replace the tensioner and idlers along with the water pump if there's a lot of miles on them.

[@BillyBobbby]

I want to get it done b4 that. I am not sure how much other places are charging, but here in Raleigh, NC it is a down right RIP OFF! I believe with your video I will be able to do it myself (At least I hope so). Thanks for your help!

[@stuzman52]

Hi Jamar, it depends on how bad the valves are bent. If they are bent a little, maybe it will start, but it won't run worth a crap. If the valves are bent more, then it won't start at all.

[@mshdiy]

Yes, you are correct, the car did stop running and the belt timing was off. I will try replacing the belt with just the one pulley and do as you suggest. Thanks.

[@stuzman52]

Hi mshdity. Thanks for the compliment on the videos. I assume that when the idler bearing went bad that the engine stop running and that possibly the belt jumped time. In that event, you probably have a good chance of bent valves. I don't know of a way to do this test without the valves being back in time which means you have to put the belt and idlers on there. You can just replace the one idler, throw the belt on and then do the test. Not that hard to do. Good luck on your repair.

[@michaelwooda9444]

stuzman you can remove the valve cover,and rotate the cam till the valves are closed,then air check the cylinder to check for bent valves.but you have to be carefull to not bend them while rotating. Turn the crank to about 30 degrees from top dead center,that lowers all the pistons low enough in the bore so they cant reach the valves.be carefull and use low preesure at first so they air doesnt spin the engine over also.thats all helpful but in theory,if the valves are not bend,and the belt is broke,most likely the pistons clear the valves,but the more carefull, the better...if the air doesnt blow out ,the valves are sealing.you normally have some air bypassing the rings so a little is normal.

[@spelunkerd]

Your video 8 was intriguing enough that I decided to go back to the beginning and watch the series from the start. Too bad the belt seems to have broken after another mechanic worked on it -- there's added complexity when you know somebody was there before. The usual rule of thumb (to replace parts as they were) doesn't necessarily apply.

[@MrCachis666]

Thank you now i fell comfortable changing it myself

[@stuzman52]

JP C Pulling the head on this car, isn't too bad. Just take your time and watch the details.

[@darrincrown5703]

Thanks for the reply I ripped everything apart and sure enough timing marks di not line up. belt didn't jump all by itself I found 3 pieces of metel almost like a pulley shield 1 piece enbeded itself around the timing pulley at the crank so I guess the piece of metel through the belt off and it did, I cleaned the metel off the pulley and re aligned all the timing marks and it still turns over rapidly oh and the piece of metel was a shield off the water pump pulley so I assume I have bent valves

[@mexicankid67]

How do you replace belt tensioner not the belt on a Suzuki Forenza i checked everywhere online but I can't find anything i need help

[@dederickmartin6656]

Any luck??

[@stuzman52]

Hi Bendpak7000, I wish I knew the answer to that. The idlers had a slight amount of bearing wear and the tensioner bearing was good along with the water pump bearing. I really didn't see anything that would cause the belt to get torn up like it did. The dealership had supposedly changed the belt, but who knows, maybe they didn't. Or if they did, maybe the adjustment wasn't correct. Which is why I think you should do a check on the tensioner adjustment after 30,000 miles. Thanks for watching!

[@darrincrown5703]

My 05 optra the same issue with the exception the belt did not break it jumped due to the fact that part of the water pump pulley came off ( a round washer type shield) it broke in 3 and one part was stuck on the timing pulley at the crank had to dig it off, you can se were the belt was running around it I removed the piece and the timing marks were way off I took the belt off re alighned all the marks and engine still turns rapidly no start so am I to assume bent valves,

[@highersta]

If the belt broke can I just put on a new one or is there valve damage if so do I just replace the head and put on a new belt

[@christiansnell4383]

Thank you. I really appreciate the help. I'll start saving and then work on it big time. Thanks again

[@buddycraigg]

I'm clicking all of your ads so you can get some adsense love.

[@stuzman52]

Thank you Buddy. I hope the videos help you out.

[@bradhartsoe9128]

I hope you are doing well my the timing belt you helped me do on my daughters 2005 Suzuki is doing great.

[@stuzman52]

and explain about using blue-thread locker on this bolt. My recommendation is at 30,000 miles to check the belt for frays, check the idlers, tensioner and its adjustment and look for coolant and oil leaks. Finally, at 60,000 miles or shortly before preferably, replace the belt, idlers, tensioner and water pump. You can get all these items for about $110. Small investment in my opinion for the damage that could happen. Thanks everyone for watching the videos and hope you have enjoyed them!

[@dvii24dd]

Thanks for the info will keep in touch awesome videos

[@stuzman52]

Thank you and have a great day!

[@stuzman52]

Hi highersta, Being how this is an interference engine, it's a good possibility that some of the valves may be bent or worse that some of the pistons could be damaged. I've been so busy through the holidays and other projects that I haven't been able to get back to this project. I'll be doing a follow-up tomorrow so stay tuned and I'll show a leak-down procedure which can show if the valves are bent before pulling the head.

[@stuzman52]

Yes, I've done a few over the years and it's a lot of work. Once I get this car back together, I'm going to sell it as you may know Suzuki has pulled out of North America which means fewer dealerships and prices on parts will continue to rise. What's frustrating is this belt had another 20,000 miles on it before replacement was needed. Got the head back yesterday and that was $317.00 not counting parts. Yes, it's expensive, but maybe a lesson to others to service that timing belt when needed.

[@blasrodriguezsanchez4380]

Muy satisfecho por la gran ayuda con los concejos muchas Gracias

[@stuzman52]

You are quite welcome!

[@Solowood2011]

Well about 6 month's ago I had to get the head shaved down so I watch your videos and it helped so much and worked perfectly. Now last week the timing belt broke and she said it sounded like the transmission fell out. So I'm going to do it again because you made it so easy but was wondering think the bottom half will be damaged and do new tensioners go bad that fast or could it have not be tighten up right because that took me like 10 time to finely get it right.

[@stuzman52]

+Craig Woodard Hey Craig. I assume that you changed everything out such as the idlers, water pump, tensioner and belt. If there was an issue with the tensioner, I would think that it would show its ugly head long before now. The only way to know if there is any bottom end damage is to pull the head and inspect. For sure, you already know that you've got valve damage. Once you get the head off, you'll be able to see if there is any issue with the pistons and connecting rods. As you rotate the engine with the head off, you should be able to look at the heights of the pistons and see if they correspond with its companion cylinders. This is why I like to put blue thread-locker on the bolts for the idlers and especially the bolt for the tensioner. Although at their rated torque values, all should be well, I like to play it safe with the thread locker since if these bolts loosen, well, you know the rest of the story. Also, once you get the tensioner pointer set, it should stay put if all else is well such as your idlers, etc.

[@Solowood2011]

It's all new parts from rockauto .com it was just crazy that it broke so fast I put lock tight on every bolt to do with the timing well I did every thing to to T how you did it. Any reason why you think it broke so fast? Thanks for the feedback so fast your videos are great really.

[@stuzman52]

+Craig Woodard Well Craig, it sounds like you did everything right and I really don't have an answer for you to why the belt broke. Have you investigated it yet to see what failed? I mean if you know the belt broke, is there any other obvious sign that caused the failure. Pretty curious to what you find there as it sounds like you did a great job! Keep me posted to what you find and glad the videos helped you out when you put it together. Just sorry to hear that it didn't last for you.

[@BillyBobbby]

When you remove the engine mount and support the engine from below. Are you using the oil pan as a support point?

[@triavue1769]

I am currently in a position to fix a 2007 suzuki reno. The right idler pulley bearing gave out on the timing belt. I think the valves are bent and head will need reworking. I would like to know how much you spent on parts and what the parts are called. E.G.: kits and parts from which manufacturers and how much to have the head sent out. This would be greatly appreciated because the car is a friends and maybe this will help her decide if she wants to proceed with the fix or junk the vehicle. A shop has quoted her $600 just to look and see what is wrong and I'm guessing that if a shop does it my friend might spend upwards about $1500-$2500. I am by no means a car mechanic and your videos really helped me to get a better understanding of a car engine. Keep up the good videos. What about videos on rebuilding a 97 mitsubishi eclipse gst? My nephew blew the motor and sister wants me to fix it to help her save money.

[@stuzman52]

Hi Darrin, the chances of the belt jumping are very good when a belt gets a lot of miles on them. When there is no compression from the cylinders, you will know it the first time you hear it. The engine will spin over very rapidly because of no compression. It's very easy to check the timing as I show in the video. There's not much to take off for this step. If it's off and it probably is, align the marks and see what happens. The worst case scenario is that when the belt jumped, it bent...cont

[@byrdbraininwithrobyn]

We've followed every step in your video.. wonderful video BTW. The tensioner pulley...the needle in the back doesn't move when we put the Allen wrench in the tightener. What are we doing wrong. TIA

[@stuzman52]

Some folks have mentioned this and its usually down to the mounting of the water pump. The water pump has slots in it and the pump must be turned fully clockwise before tightening down its bolts. Try that and see if that helps. If not, try putting on own original pump with the same technique as described and see if that works.

[@byrdbraininwithrobyn]

@@stuzman52 uh what? The water pump is fine....the needle that you move with the Allen wrench doesn't move..at all. We got the tang where it needs to be, we loosely attach the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley. Put the Allen wrench in the hole and turn it..the needle doesn't move, on the old one or the new one. What's up?

[@stuzman52]

@@byrdbraininwithrobyn I mentioned the water pump because some folks had mentioned it. You may already know this, but the belt has to be routed and when the allen wrench is turned, the tensioner will press against the belt before the pointer will move. If the belt is on and up against the tensioner, then I don't have an answer of why the pointer won't move.

[@byrdbraininwithrobyn]

@@stuzman52 that's for getting back to me. Apparently we got a defective tensioner and the old is just shot 185K +/- miles. You know someone who wants to buy 2007 Suzuki Forenza?

[@stuzman52]

@@byrdbraininwithrobyn Sounds like that's the only thing left. Don't know anyone who wants a Forenza. Soon after the repair, I sold mine a few weeks later. Good luck with your repair.

[@madeinjapan3485]

Silly question if the timing marks are aligned on the crankshaft and camshaft are the valves closed or open? Great video by the way very informative.

[@stuzman52]

First, you set #1 piston on the compression stroke at TDC. At this point, all valves for #1 cylinder are closed. Then the alignment marks are aligned. And at this point, other valves in the other cylinders are open.

[@kingpingw07]

Hey is the engine valves on the forenza are bent will the car start

[@Usmanthemecano]

hey mister Pike! long time no see. I hope you and the Mrs are doing great! cheers

[@stuzman52]

Hi! The wife and I are doing fine and I hope you're doing well also :)

[@Usmanthemecano]

Glad to hear back from you! Miss your videos. Hope you have something coming soon.

[@stuzman52]

I was thinking of doing a couple this weekend if all goes well :)

[@stuzman52]

@Tony, yep, I agree, but they are here to stay as far as the interference engines. Thanks for the comment.

[@stuzman52]

Check out this video and see if this helps kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYG5kHmJmcd9rrM

[@stuzman52]

People have mentioned that when they tensioned the belt, it wouldn't tightened up. You have to make sure that the water pump is turned fully clockwise until it hits the stops. So you may want to loosen the water pump bolts and ensure that is correct. I've wrote this in one of the videos and it's in the description. See if that helps.

[@stuzman52]

some of the valves. At that point, you can follow along with the other videos showing where I'm pulling the head and sending it out to a machinist for repair. I sure do wish you luck and hope there wasn't any damage. Oh, one more thing. If there is no damage to the valves, be sure to change the water pump, two idlers and tensioner. According to Gates (belt manufacturer), you lose 50% of the life of the belt when these components are not changed. Thanks for watching!

[@vicentehernandez-lt7qy]

hello, I have a 2007 Suzuki forenza, my question is I broke a pulley where will the timing belt, it may affect me the valves of the engine head, thanks

[@Aperez78]

Working on our Forenza When trying to align the cutout of the crankshaft hub (white piece of tape) can't get it aligned to the bottom cutout. It stops going when turning clockwise and or anticlockwise wise (we took off the belt to work on this) Car turned off while driving and found out one of the camshaft idler cracked while driving which we assume caused the car to shutdown. What do you think the issue is when it comes to trying to align them together?

[@stuzman52]

Alex Perez Since the idler busted, your timing got off and now you probably have bent valves. Sounds like you’ll have to pull the head.

[@Aperez78]

stuzman stuzman that's what I was afraid for, The pulley stayed in place when it cracked and the belt was still on when this happened and we just lost tension on it. When pulling it apart, the camshaft idler was there but we notice it it cracked and no longer spun. We also noticed that the timing belt was skipping when trying to start it up again right after the car shutdown. Therefore we assumed that maybe the valves didn't bend since everything was still in place

[@stuzman52]

Alex Perez I would have gave it a shot too using your thinking. Sorry to hear that it didn’t work out. Fortunately, it’s an easy engine to work on if you decide to fix it.

[@Aperez78]

Thank you Stutzman!, we have decided to fix it on our on and follow through your videos to get it working again; we are going to be patient and take our time and set aside a good amount of our time to work on the car(:

[@stuzman52]

Alex Perez Great advice for yourself in taking your time as this isn’t a job you want to rush.

[@BillyBobbby]

Do u know of a good place to buy these parts (timing belt, idlers, water pump, tensioner) at a good price?

[@muchie3791]

I'm getting ready for this job and I have my kit. Looking at the pulleys, are they both the same part that's just installed opposite of each other for the lips to be opposed or is there a designated front/rear pulley? Thanks in advance.

[@stuzman52]

They are the same pulleys, just turned around backwards. In your kit, you should have these two idler pulleys. Take a look at them and you'll see that they are the same.

[@jaywhiteside4582]

stuzman52 I'm at work so my screen name is different. Thanks for the info. Just finished this job on a 07' Honda Odyssey. Hope this goes easier than that (crank pulley was a nightmare). Any advice on Coolant choices? My plan is to go with Zerex for Asian antifreeze.

[@stuzman52]

Jay Whiteside Any of them should be good. I usually go with a universal one that has a long life.

[@muchie3791]

stuzman52 So I started this job last night and when I pulled the water pump there was rust all where the water pump is housed in the engine block. It felt REALLY rough to touch. My first guess is non distilled tap water or using a bad water\coolant ratio. My engine was on an orange coolant (I believe Dex-Cool). How much concern should I have?

[@stuzman52]

I would do a flush on the engine once you get it all buttoned up. When I did the head job, I flushed the system with distilled water, warmed it up, and did that a couple of times. I didn't have any rust inside. Then I refilled the system with a premix of 50/50 universal antifreeze. In your case, you may want to try a super flush from Prestone if it looks that bad. If you do decide to use the super flush, be sure to reflush the system with distilled water a few times to get as much of the super flush out as possible.

[@MrRhoneycutt]

Do you know if this is the same engine in a 2005 Chevy Optra? I have been searching high and low and someone sent me your video to watch and follow. I hope so, thanks

[@stuzman52]

If I remember correctly from memory, I believe other people in the comments have said that it is the same engine.

[@MrRhoneycutt]

@ thanks

[@latinaar1budgets]

Hello Stuzman wanted to know if you could tell me what exactly is the SSPS warning light on a Suzuki forenza 2004 or if you can make a video showing exactly what is involved. any help is greatly appreciated.

[@stuzman52]

When I read your comment, I wasn't familar either with a SSPS light. It appears to be a warning that there is an issue with a steering sensor. You can read about it here on a Suzuki forum and possibly ask the question there. I sold the car several years ago, so I can't help with a video. Hope you get it resolved! Here's the link to the forum www.suzuki-forums.com/general-forenza-reno-forum/16521-ssps-light-stays-steady.html

[@latinaar1budgets]

Thank you for the quick response and link very helpful.... car is getting fixed tomorrow just a sensor and we can fix it ourselves.

[@stuzman52]

Hope it all works out for you Abigail!

[@johndavis6197]

your video has inspired me to repair my car, in this case a 2004 chevy optra ( basically same as the forenza). My question is.... if the battery has been disconnected for a couple of months during this job, does it affect the computer?

[@stuzman52]

Sorry John for the delay as KZbin did not contact me. You should be okay that the program should still be within the computer. I have had a battery disconnected on a Buick for seven months with no problems once the battery was charged.

[@bradhartsoe9128]

But I was wondering if you have had the check engine light come on with the code p0507?

[@orlandoperez-xl8ju]

Hi! I'm not sure if you have a video series for the problem I am having with my car. Just recently I was driving down the road when my engine started making the sounds of a lawn mower starting... a little way down the road my car stopped and everything locked.. the gear shift, the ignition switch, and the steering wheel. Before the incident, my check engine light had been on that morning.

[@stuzman52]

+orlando perez First thing you need to do is get a scanner on there and start reading the code(s). Since it cut off abruptly, it's possible that your timing belt broke and you now have bent valves. This is only a guess from your description, so you'll have to do some diagnostics.

[@orlandoperez-xl8ju]

+stuzman52 We have changed the head before, prior to the problem but we didn't change the antlers and the timing belt was still okay but one of the antlers broke in pieces. I changed it and set it back but now it just spins and does not crank. It just makes the sound like when a starter is bad in a car. And I just dont know where the starter is on the 2007 suzuki forenza

[@stuzman52]

If one of your idlers broke, then that suggests that the timing belt slipped too. At this point, you probably have bent valves now. Time to do a compression/leak down test to confirm it. As for the starter motor, it's directly under the intake manifold on the driver's side. Pretty tough to get at.

[@orlandoperez-xl8ju]

+stuzman52 Do you have a video series on how to fix the starter motor for a similar car?

[@orlandoperez-xl8ju]

@stuzman52 *remove the starter

[@jorgiyo1]

Hi mr Stuzman, your suzuki forenza videos are amazing, i have a 2006 forenza that is leaking oil from a small metal pipe that connects to the valve cover plastic elbow, would you please give advice on how to stop the leak?

[@stuzman52]

Thank you Jorge! I had the same issue also and did a little research before I sold the car. I thought there should be a gasket there, but it turns out there is none. I suspect this is a design issue. I was going to install a seal in there, but never got around to it as the car was sold. That's what I would do is to try and get a gasket, (seal) in there to prevent the oil from escaping.

[@cuauhtemocchavez4160]

This video was very helpful by the way

[@stuzman52]

Thank you very much Cuauhtemoc and hope the video series is helpful to you if you need to go further.

[@jdkoch8287]

@stuzman Hello. I am replacing the timing belt of my 06 Forenza. The car was running fine but it just time for a new belt. I took the belt off and adjusted the crackshat to line up wit the timing marks. Then I went to adjust the two cam sprockets. I turned the left one 90 degrees and now they are stuck and cant move them to be in time. What do you suggest to do. I hope i didnt ruin anything. Thanks

[@stuzman52]

You're probably binding the valves with the pistons. You should turn the engine over (by hand) with #1 piston at TDC on compression and all of your marks should be aligned on the crank and camshafts. And this is before you take the belt off. Then you could use some vise grip pliers to lock the cam sprockets from turning when you take off the belt. At this point, I would turn the crank 90" clockwise past TDC of the timing mark for the crank sprocket. This will put all pistons midway down in the cylinders. Now you can turn the camshafts to where they need without the valves hitting the pistons. Whatever you do, don't keep turning the crank with it binding. Otherwise, you're going to bend some valves. Hopefully, you haven't got to that point. Good luck!

[@jdkoch8287]

Thanks for the tip. Now when I moved the left cam it was kind of hard to move when I turned it 90 degrees. Is that where the binding started where I cant move it now?

[@stuzman52]

JD, I'm not sure if you've got bent valves or if your camshaft(s) are so far out that you're hitting the valves. You may have to take that camshaft(s) out to be able to turn the engine. I'm not sure what's going on...

[@jdkoch8287]

stuzman ok. how do I take the camshafts out

[@jdkoch8287]

stuzman do you have a video for that

[@BENDPAK7000]

What caused the timing belt to fail so soon after replacement?

[@jajabor01010101]

You are very energetic.Thank you.

[@stuzman52]

Thank you jajabor for the comment.

[@drez2857]

Is it correct that it does not matter how far the marks on pulleys off from the TDC as long as we turn the pulleys' marks back to the TDC marks on the back cover, the timing of a car will be correct?

[@stuzman52]

+Dre Hogan Yes, that is correct. As long as the crank sprocket mark lines up along with the two camshaft sprocket marks on the rear timing cover, the engine is in timed. But keep in mind that you can't just turn camshafts or the crankshaft with the belt off. Pistons could be up at the top of their bore and when you start turning camshafts or the crank, you could bend valves yourself.

[@drez2857]

Thanks so much your help.

[@ROBBIE-ug1yf]

In the video you showed the camshaft pulleys were 90 degrees off and that they needed aligned, but did not show how you aligned them. How do you bring them back into alignment without turning them?

[@stuzman52]

+ROBBIE 1234 In this video, I just showed that the belt was broken. Alignment procedure is shown in a later video of this series. And there is no way to get the timing marks back in alignment without turning the camshafts. And how would you align the marks without turning the camshafts?

[@ROBBIE-ug1yf]

+stuzman52 My ideal pulley broke creating slack in the belt and causing the cam pulley to be off about 90 degrees. Will I need to loosen the caps that hold the camshaft in or will I just simply turn the pulley into position? Your videos are great and very detailed. Do you know which video # shows the camshaft pulley alignment procedure?

[@stuzman52]

+ROBBIE 1234 Look at part 15 of this video series of where the timing belt is installed. There is no need to loosen the bolt that holds the cam sprocket to the camshaft. You do realize that since the belt has slipped causing the camshafts to move, that you probably have bent valves now. So, if your car doesn't start or runs very poorly after you get the belt back on and in time, consider that your valves are bent. This will require removal of the head to have valves replaced. Good luck...

[@ROBBIE-ug1yf]

+stuzman52 Thanks for the help. You are a great teacher.

[@mshdiy]

Hi, I must compliment you on the great videos and the detail in which it is presented. You sure make a phenomenal teacher. I have a 2004 Forenza. The bearings on one of the idler pulleys went bad, and we had to tow the car home. Is there a way to do a leak down test to check for bent rods without replacing the belt and pulleys? I have ordered the belt, but thought I could save some time by starting to strip the engine and getting it to the shop in the meantime. Thank you!

[@MrCachis666]

I need to change the camshaft position sensor in my 07 forenza , can I access it after taking off timing belt cover? Are there any other steps i should follow? Please help.

[@stuzman52]

JP C You can gain access to it after you take the front timing cover off and you'll see it sandwiches between the two cam sprockets near the bottom of the sprockets. But you'll have to be very careful with the one screw that secures it. Just be careful that you don't drop the screw.

[@stuzman52]

Hello everyone! I just wanted to mention that at 6:30 I show a diagram of the serpentine belt routing. On the diagram, I labeled the air conditioning pulley as an "Air Compressor Pulley". I must have been getting a little tired when I drew it up. Sorry about that!

[@miguelsvlogsharelikecommen3275]

what are all the tools i would need to complete this job ?

[@stuzman52]

Basically a set of wrenches, sockets and ratchet set.

[@jesuswilhelm7551]

I am getting ready for this job, but, there is something that I do not clearly understand. How did you do to align the intake camshaft that was almost 90 degrees off to the left. Will you explain that to me. Besides that your videos are great. Thank you for sharing.

[@stuzman52]

Jesus Wilhelm In the video of where I install the camshafts, I left an annotation of how the camshafts should be located. For the intake camshaft, take a look at the cam lobes for the #1 cylinder at TDC. The lobes for this cylinder will be pointing back towards the back which would put them at 180 degrees. If you look close at the video, you will see this. To confirm that you've got the cam pretty close, temporarily slide your intake cam sprocket over its dowel pin. The timing mark should be very close to aligning with the timing mark on the valve cover. Hope that helps.

[@kingpingw07]

I have been watching your videos and they are really well made I'm working on my girl friends car. The timing belt broke while she was driving. I installed the new belt and thaw car would not start. I double checked the timing which was good. I removed the head by following your video and found 2 bent valves and 4 open ones. Would this have prevented the car from starting? Any help would be appreciated

[@TheMMG07]

When your timing belt broke did your piston and vale break bcuz I had to get a new engine

[@stuzman52]

Hi BIGT. I was really lucky on this one. The car was my daughter's car, and it broke just as she was slowing down because of a red stoplight. She was probably doing about 5 mph when it broke from what she said. In my case, a few valves did kiss the top of a couple of pistons. But even still, it bent 10 out of 16 valves. The bottom end of the engine was still in good shape. I guess you could say of how lucky you are is how fast the engine is turning and what position the valves and pistons are in when the belt breaks. Sorry to hear that you had to get a new engine. With interference engines, sometimes the whole engine gets destroyed needing replacement. Thanks for the questions and for taking the time to comment.

[@TheMMG07]

Thanks alot

[@stuzman52]

Glad to help.

[@jeffreya.hilliard9996]

have an 06 forenza, with new rings, bearings and all new gaskets. upon getting motor in, correctly timed. the intake blows exhaust instead of suck. is this normal? and where is the knock sensors location at, we're does it go I mean. what is keeping my car from starting?

[@stuzman52]

Jeffrey A. Hilliard Jeffrey at this point I would do a compression test and possibly a leak down test to see what's going on. It sounds like the engine is out of time to me.

[@jeffreya.hilliard9996]

stuzman should the timing marks line up with the notches on the valve cover? and would the intake being off 1 or 2 teeth be the problem? where exactly does the knock sensor go? I've been working on this car for months and I'm to the point of giving up

[@stuzman52]

Jeffrey A. Hilliard The timing marks on the camshaft sprockets should line up with the rear timing cover which has marks. Also the crankshaft sprocket has a mark which lines up with a notch in the rear timing belt cover. All of this is shown in this video series maybe you should review these videos. Usually knock sensor is located somewhere around head. I'm not sure of its exact location. If I've been working on the car for months I surely would not be giving up at this point stay with it and you will find the issue 😀

[@youcantstopme5136]

Do you have to replace the timing belt to put in a new water pump?

[@stuzman52]

No, you do not have to replace the timing belt to put in a water pump. Question is, if the belt is due for a change, why not change it then also.

[@natobaden]

cheers Great vid ty my sons 2005 chev optra needs head gasket so there is a pointer at the 2 oclock position on the harmonic dampener, and a notch looking from the top of eng bay,,, I lined them up and confirmed that number 1 piston was very near tdc,, with probe via spark plug hole. noted on your vid that you took off damper to see the crank index mark... if I remove harmonic dampener,, and rotate crank then line up index point will I have an issue if the crank ends up 180 or should I go back to 360 clock wise ,,,wondering if the crank can be out 180 degrees relateive to cams in your vid ty

[@stuzman52]

Hi natobaden. Not sure how you're using the harmonic balancer to do your alignment. You must use the crankshaft sprocket for that as that's where the marking is. You can't get the crank out by 180 degrees because the marks wouldn't align. Once you align the mark on the crank sprocket to the notch on the rear timing belt cover, you'll be at TDC on #1 and on #4. Even if you turn it another 360 degrees to align the crankshaft sprocket marking on the notch, you'll be right back to where you were, which is TDC for #1 and #4. Do make sure that you get this crank mark correct and that the camshaft sprocket marks are aligned. I sure don't want you to bend any valves unnecessarily. If you have any doubts about any markings, then that's enough to cause concern. Holler out, if you have any other questions.

[@natobaden]

ahh ty I will remove the harmonic balance r after work tomorrow, if it does not rain the head is getting machined and ready by wed. your vids are the only info I can get so I am grateful. picking up a new timing belt water pump and idlers too don't want to do this job twice 6o years old is hard enough in the drive way ps you are right about the crank rotation vs the cams I forgot that point ty

[@stuzman52]

***** No problem natobaden and glad to help. And at 62, I'm like you that I don't want to do a job twice. Good that you're getting all of the front engine components while you're in there. And I've been there and done the driveway thing too. I can remember pulling an automatic transmission out of a car on cinder blocks, (yeah, not safe) and there was a foot of snow on the ground and it was still snowing. I must have been out of my mind when I was younger. Just take your time and watch the details. If you don't get the details in the beginning, trust me, they'll find you at the end. Good luck on your repair.

[@natobaden]

Cheers ,need advice,the machine shop called and found pits they are deep but where the metal ring on the head gasket is may be less than 5 thou.. no old heads in wreckers, what is the max I can remove from head,, without going too high on compression and or valve interference,,ty

[@stuzman52]

***** I'm surprised that the machine shop couldn't tell you this. I really don't know the answer to this since I'm not a machinist. So, I called my machine shop and they said for an aluminum head most manufacturers uses 0.004" - 0.005" for a maximum. But they did say that they have removed up to 0.010" and they never had an issue. And just to throw some more stuff at you, there are places online that have reconditioned heads. Here is one example of where you can get a head that has all the work done. Valves, new valve seals, new valve guides, resurfaced and even has the camshafts for $375.00. With my own head, it was close to $500 to replace valves, guides, seals along with the machine work. If I had to do it all over again, I would pick a head up from online since it would be a lot cheaper. If you do decide to go this route, be sure to give them a call since your car is an Optra although, it's probably the same as the Forenza. Here is a link to one such place... www.shop.headsonly.com/SUZUKI-FORENZA-20-LITER-DUAL-CAM-REBUILT-CYLINDER-HEAD-FORENZADOHC20.htm

[@davidkutzer5312]

ok so i had a broken timing belt and i watched all your vids about the timing belt i did everything that you did (pretty sure no valve damage and also the components) but it still wont start any ideas? i realize ur nowhere around my car and im not giving you much to go on but i put the timing belt on it is in time and everything else should b where its suppose to be

[@stuzman52]

David, when the belt breaks on these cars which has an interference engine, it's a good bet that you've got some bent valves. In fact, I don't know of anyone of where the belt broke and all was well with the valves. How did you confirm that the valves are okay? That's the only thing that comes to my mind at the moment.

[@davidkutzer5312]

well its my gfs car and supposedly the mech she called out there to look at it said they were fine it was just that the belt broke i personally dk i was actually hoping that he knew what he was talking about and so was my wallet

[@stuzman52]

Doesn't sound like he checked for valve damage. It's not a hard check if you got an air compressor. I show the procedure in the second video of the Suzuki series of doing a cylinder leakage test. Hope it works out for you.

[@davidkutzer5312]

i dont

[@stuzman52]

Sorry on the price of the head work. The price was $371.00. This includes a complete valve job where all valves were replaced, valve guides were replaced since several were split when the valves bent, some aluminum welding was done to fill in some minor pockets on the deck and .005" was removed from the deck. This does not include any parts as this is only the labor to fix the head. So, folks be sure to replace that belt or you will have extensive damage which means quite a bit of money.

[@Toyota-nm8ls]

Thanks, for providing this piece. As we have this timing belt as main piece in vehicle. I'm wondering to find a way to timing belt failure ahead of time. This timing belt is hidden under timing belt cover. How do we check/inspect the timing belt condition periodical basis to avoid break/failure? (Apart from age/driven miles, typically mentioned in owners manual) Are there any symptoms/noises showing up ahead of timing break/failure? Did you cover this aspect in your videos?

[@stuzman52]

Unless the belt is wearing up against the pulleys which of course is abnormal, you may be able to see this. So, let's say that everything is running normally, belt is tracking fine and you pull the inspection cover to look at the belt. Usually, you won't see any problems with the belt such as cracking, fraying, etc. So, the best thing is to change the belt at the manufacturer's suggested mileage. Run past this and you stand a good chance of the belt then cracking, fraying and then breaking. So, what's the best advice? Change the belt at the recommended vehicle's mileage.

[@Toyota-nm8ls]

stuzman52 Thanks for your insight. I do see posting about timing belt failures at 50K miles and some are going beyond 150K miles. That was the reason I posted this. Good to know we can see some by pulling the inspection cover to look at the belt. Does this inspection cover has easy access on all vehicles? Do you have a video inspecting belt by pulling the inspection cover ? Thanks for sharing.

[@alanw5879]

Hello, I know this video is pretty old, but one of these cars just came in, and sure enough, every valve is bent, both intake and exhaust, is there a reason the new belt on your video here failed at such a low mileage? I hear a lot about these tensioners and the issues they cause, even just getting the belt to stay in place on new ones. Do you think the tensioner had anything to do with this failure? I know the belt is broken right in half, but at only 40k seems strange, Id assume a dealership would put on an oem belt, maybe not.. Thanks in advance,, Great video btw

[@stuzman52]

It's really hard to say Alan. All of the idler pulleys looked fine. The only thing that I can suspect is that the tensioner bolt wasn't tightened enough. Have a great day and good luck with your Suzuki!

[@alanw5879]

@@stuzman52 I suspect the tensioners are to blame for many of the timing belt issues on these. This vehicle that came in only has 60k on the clock, and its a mess. Thanks for the videos and insight on these vehicles, its the last one Im taking in.

[@stuzman52]

@@alanw5879 Don't blame you at all for being the last one to work on. Have a great day and don't work too hard.

[@alanw5879]

@@stuzman52 Sorry one last question, I see this what looks like a 1 wire thermal switch next to the ECT sensor, I didnt see any harness plugged into that and it looks like nothing has ever been plugged into it, Im going to look threw service info for any coolant switches in the wiring diagrams, but maybe you know off hand.

[@stuzman52]

@@alanw5879 It's been so long along that I worked on this car Alan, I can't be sure what it is. Being a one terminal component, I would assume that it's a coolant or knock sensor.

[@stuzman52]

idle relearn procedure. Go to my last video of where we're done and I show the idle relearn procedure there. Good luck on your repair Brad.

[@jdkoch8287]

Hello, I replaced a bad upstream O2 sensor on my 06 Suzuki Forenza. I can tell that the car is running much better but I am still throwing a P0133 code. Any thoughts? Thanks

[@stuzman52]

JD Koch usually that code signifies a slows switching 02 sensor and replacing the sensor usually takes care of that issue. If you have a spoke you can take a look at the cross counts on the swings of the sensor and also take a look at the heater Circuit. You can do a Google search and see what other things may pop up.

[@stuzman52]

Glad to hear that everything went well for you Brad. Good luck on that P0507 code. I wrote you a reply to that one.

[@BillyBobbby]

I am changing the belt, pump, tensioner and idlers. My 2006, Forenza is coming up on 60,000. I am starting to get worried that the belt is going to break on me, so I am trying to get this done ASAP, but i refuse to pay dealer prices. The dealer told me I should get the belt changed before 67,000. Continued . . .

[@stuzman52]

Hi Darrin, I was just curious where you are at with your auto. It sounds like your valves did get bent and if you were going to repair it.

[@stuzman52]

For all viewers and to answer your question Bendpak7000, I reviewed the first video looking for any sign of why this belt broke. If you look in the first video, the metal tab which is used to adjust the tensioner is pointing quite a bit to the right. In my video "Head Installation Part 8", where the tensioner is finally adjusted, the metal tab is pointing way to the left. So, it appears that the tensioner bolt loosen, putting slack in the belt. I have annotations of this in the videos...cont

[@ralphvaccaro2638]

Thanks for the info good job 😃

[@jdkoch8287]

Hello. If the valves are bent, would I be able to turn the engine at all?

[@stuzman52]

JD Koch if the valves are bent badly, you could get to a spot where one or more valves that's stuck open would hit the piston(s). Then you couldn't turn the engine over any further at this point.

[@specialized51]

Hey Stuzman, new to the Suzuki Forenza world. I currently have an 07 Forenza with a multiple random misfire issue. All plugs, wires, rotor were replaced last month. A new temp sensor and new throttle body was installed last week. All injectors were checked and working great. Have any thoughts? I'm so frustrated....

[@stuzman52]

These vehicles have a big issue with the o'rings leaking under the valve cover which allows oil to seep down in the spark plugs wells. Since you didn't mention anything about seeing oil when the plugs were changed, I assume this wasn't an issue. Another big issue is that these vehicles have blown head gaskets which allows coolant to seep down into the combustion chamber. If your coolant recovery tank gets low and you have to refill it and you don't see any signs of an external leak, suspect a head gasket issue. Those are the two biggest things that causes random misfires. Otherwise, you're going to need some specialized equipment to do some diagnostics such as a scanner that supports data and possibly other equipment. Oh, this car should not have a distributor of where you mentioned that the rotor was replaced. Also, I can't see how the throttle body would cause misfires. Hope that gives you some direction.

[@specialized51]

You are right, it's just coils. Spark plug tube seals and head gaskets were replaced because there was oil in the spark plug well. The previous owner replaced the timing belt last year, could that cause a misfire if done improperly? It's odd you only feel the misfire when it's idling and waiting at a stop light. When it's driving it's very smooth and fun to drive.

[@stuzman52]

It's quite possible that a timing belt off a tooth could cause misfires. Here's where some of that specialized equipment comes in handy. If you have a scope you could look at the correlation between the crank and cam signals and compare it known good waveforms. Within a few minutes, you'll know about the timing and won't have to pull any covers off. Otherwise, if you want to verify the timing, you're going to have to pull the front cover and inspect the marks. Also, you have to wonder if the owner had any head work done such as having a valve job done when he removed the head which is always a good thing when you take the time to pull a head. Maybe, he didn't do anything except replace the gasket. Or maybe the belt broke on him and if so, maybe there's one or more valves that's bent and they're not seating. If there's not many valves bent, it could start, run fine and yet have misfires under conditions that you describe. And of course, he had to change the head gasket anyway so maybe he left the part out about the belt breaking. Who knows?? You could verify that the timing marks are correct and if that looks good, then I would suspect valve seating issues. Hope that gives you some good food for thought :)

[@specialized51]

Thanks so much for your help! I'll take it to the closest dealer for a diagnostic ;)

[@stuzman52]

specialized51 hopefully it will be an inexpensive fix

[@musclecarmason]

The front cam sprocket doesn't line up with the mark. Any idea why??

[@stuzman52]

You didn't say if this was a routine belt replacement or if the belt or idler went. If the later, then you probably have bent valves preventing one of the cams from turning.

[@musclecarmason]

stuzman I concluded that the valves were definitely bent after a compression test. Thanks for responding. Your videos are fantastic.

[@christiansnell4383]

Hi I have an 05 forenza and I need to know what's wrong with it. I was hoping you would have an idea. I heard a bad tapping noise and it sounded like static so i took some stuff apart and found that the timing was off and the engine would start before I timed it back up but then I fixed The timing and now it won't start. When the timing was off, I could flood the engine and it would start now that timing is back on it will just turn over without wanting to attempt to fire. I did a compression test and it has 0 compression. Help???

[@stuzman52]

Sounds like Christian when the belt jumped, it bent some valves. Time to do a leakage test to confirm, but that sounds like your issue now.

[@christiansnell4383]

What do you suggest I do if it is the valves? Should I get a new head with valves in it? Because I don't have thousands of dollars to get it fixed.

[@stuzman52]

Christian Snell If you do have bent valves, you have several options. But first, keep in mind that these options apply if you don't have any piston or bottom end damage. Hopefully, the bottom end of the engine is okay, but you'll have to pull the head to know for sure. Okay, for the options...you can pull the head and see what the damage is such as bent valves, guides, etc. and then buy the parts and let a machine shop do the work for you. I did this method and it was about $550 for the parts, machine shop work and some welding to take care of pitting on the head deck. Second option is you can try and find a head at a salvage yard and let a machine shop do the work for you such as lapping the valves, replacing seals, machining the head flat, etc. Not as expensive as replacing valves, but still will probably run you about $400. Third option and this is what I would do now, would go and order a reconditioned head which is completely rebuilt. Here are just a couple of links that you can review and I'm not endorsing either one as I've never used them. Only showing you options. www.shop.headsonly.com/SUZUKI-FORENZA-20-LITER-DUAL-CAM-REBUILT-CYLINDER-HEAD-FORENZADOHC20.htm www.ramscyl.com/suzuki.htm Also, if you can do the work yourself, you'll be saving yourself hundreds of dollars. And for the last option if you farm all the work out to someone, you'll be spending probably around $1500-$2500 depending on your area. There you go Christian, time for decisions...Good luck on your repair.

[@christiansnell4383]

stuzman52 oh and one thing I forgot to mention was the engine has 60 some thousand miles on it. Would I be better off buying a better engine or would just buying the head be better? I don't wanna get the head and have problems elsewhere in the motor or if I get a new motor when there's nothing wrong with the engine

[@stuzman52]

Christian Snell To make that call, you'll have to pull the head and see if there is any damage to the pistons. At that point, you'll be able to see which way to go. If it was me and the bottom end of the engine looked okay, I would start taking care of the head.

[@darrincrown5703]

part 2. the car has 320,000 km's or around 198,800 mi what would recomend

[@devono.5180]

Hey, nice vid. I like how informative you are. I have a question about the comment you made about the hydraulic-lift being OK if the belt hasn't broke yet but a scissor-lift is better if the belt is broken. Why is that? I understand that hydraulics bleed I just don't get why it's important when the damage has already been done. It's not an answer I need right away, I am just curious. I have a friend with this car that has 80k on the original timing belt, so I am trying to convince her that we should try this to save her a few hundred bucks in shop fees. I have access to a quality hydraulic-jack, jack-stands, and the usual wrenches/stuff. Your video makes it all seem quite possible from an average-joe's garage.

[@stuzman52]

De Von Hi Devon. The only reason that I made that comment was that over longer periods of time such as when a timing belt breaks, you'll have to pull the head for bent valves. Usually, with most hydraulic jacks over this long period, the jack could bleed off where the engine could drop. So, it's only about safety if you're up under the car. Since the scissors jack doesn't have hydraulics, you don't have to worry about the engine dropping down. If you're going to change just the belt, the hydraulic jack should be good enough to support the engine when you remove the engine mount. But, even still, be careful as you never know when it could bleed, right? If you take your time with this job, it's very doable for a DIY who has some mechanical skills. Goo

[@axxisblack]

Question (don`t laugh): can you advanced the timing by rotatatin 1 toth of the pulley or the crank stays put and you rotate de cam axles? And by that will you damage or interfere the pistons with valves? Thank you very much

[@stuzman52]

Alex I You can rotate the camshaft(s) one turn and you may not hit the valves on this engine. But on other engines you could hit the valves. And even if you could turn the camshafts, it’s not a good idea because you would lose power from the engine.

[@j.andres3697]

I have a question for you.. did you say that the head needs to to be re torqued after a while of use the car or engine warm up.?

[@stuzman52]

Jandres Marcos no sir, once you torque the bolts, you're good. One of the advantages of using MLS head gasket.

[@ef2fodo]

great video. did it bent valves

[@stuzman52]

+Steven Vargas Sure did Steven...12 if I remember correctly. All the videos in this series shows pulling the head and getting it all back together.

[@AmicosBarandgrill]

Read somewhere that this is a non interference engine. Any thoughts?

[@stuzman52]

No, this is an interference engine. It would be nice if it was a non interference type, then we wouldn't have valves bending when the timing belt breaks. Thanks for your question.

[@AmicosBarandgrill]

Thanks also. It's about time to do a timing belt replacement on the gf's Chevy Optra. I couldn't find videos about it but found out that the Forenza is basically the same car and came across your helpful videos. The engine bay is practically the same. I guess I wont be holding off the replacement any longer.

[@stuzman52]

AmicosBarandgrill Yeah Amicos...If it's time for it, just as well get it done. If that belt ever breaks, you'll be spending some big bucks to get it fixed.

[@rexrunner]

Mine just ate the teeth on the belt at the crank, but never broke. Motor spins like the starter wasn't engaging. Think a valve bent?

[@stuzman52]

Sorry justin for the delay as KZbin did not notify me. More than likely if the belt has teeth missing, you may have one or more valves bent.

[@rexrunner]

stuzman no worries I just ended up scrapping it lol. I daily a LS swapped tacoma

[@cuauhtemocchavez4160]

Can you show me where the fan switch is or how to test fan is working properly

[@stuzman52]

I sold the car a few years ago along with the service manual, and I don't have any information for it. Here is a link to a website where you may acquire free wiring diagrams and TSBs for your vehicle or any vehicle for that matter. Just fill out the short form and click on the submit button. Afterwards, click on the agree button. That website is located here www.bbbind.com/tech_database.html There are a couple of paid subscriptions where you can get the service information for a very small price. You can investigate that either here www.alldatadiy.com or here www.eautorepair.net Finally, if you don't want to pay anything, you could ask your question at a Suzuki forum which is located here www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-forenza-reno-forum/ Hope you get it all sorted out :)

[@AmitMaisuriya]

Hello stuzman I saw your video and its excellent work. You are just awesome. I need a help on fixing my broken timing belt and bent valves in Suzuki Forenza 2006. I went to mechanic and he told me it would cost me roughly around $700 to $800. Is this a good price? How much would you think it would take to get this fixed?

[@stuzman52]

Hi Amit, the price does sound reasonable considering that there will be machine work done. If I remember correctly, having all the valves, seals and guides replaced along with the machine work ran about $550.00. So considering that you still have to buy other parts such as belts, idlers, gaskets, etc. the price is not bad at all. As for the time, the shop could tell you more on that since it depends on their scheduling and the scheduling of the machine shop work. Hope it all works out for you and thank you for the comments on the videos as I appreciate it.

[@AmitMaisuriya]

stuzman52 So how much would you think this may cost with Parts and Labor? It would be really appreciate if you can provide me the list of Parts need to get this work and also how much does it cost approx.? Thank you.

[@stuzman52]

Amit, the pricing of parts can be estimated as I mentioned. But for labor, that's a different story as different regions, let's say the US is different. Labor costs could run from $80-$100 per hour or even more. Are you going to let a shop do the work? If so, your best bet is to get with them as I can not give you an accurate cost for labor. Also, keep in mind that the shop will purchase parts where they will mark it up. Again, you have to ask the shop. So, again, if a shop is going to do the job, you'll need to ask them what the price is going to be. And if they're going to do the entire job, parts and labor for 700-800 dollars, I would let them do it as that sounds very reasonable. Good luck...

[@AmitMaisuriya]

stuzman52 Thank you very much for your reply. Today the guy started working on my car and looks like all 16 value are damage. Also he took the cylinder head with him to fix. Now the estimation he gave me is somewhat increased to $1200. Is this a reasonable price? Also there is some impact on Cylinder Bottom. What do you think whether is it good to fix this car and drive it for a while OR should I sell it once the fix is done. I am worried about the Cylinder impact so thought of taking your expert guidance on it. Also is there a possibility of getting future damages due to this repair? How reliable the car would be? Thank you in advance and will be waiting for your expert comment on it.

[@stuzman52]

When I first read your post and the mechanic said that he could do the job for 700-800 dollars, I knew that he was going to lose some money. Especially when you said the head had bent valves. The job probably should run around $1500 so with the estimate now at $1200, you're still getting a deal. As for the bottom end, it's hard to say from this end. If the piston is not cracked, split or damaged, the other issue would be the crank and rod bearings. The mechanic should be able to check for any slop in the rod bearing without tearing it down. And if the crank can turn freely, then you're probably good to go.

[@stuzman52]

Yes, that is correct Nivicoman. Cheaper always wins.

[@stuzman52]

Hi darrin...I may have replied to this already. If the car wasn't burning oil and in otherwise good shape, for me, it would be worth it. I don't like car payments and you'll still be ahead if you've just got some bent valves. Still be cheaper than car payments. If you like working on cars and saving money, why not.

[@dvii24dd]

I have the same car 2004 my wife was driving and the car cut off she kept trying to turn it over not knowing the belt snapped I had it towed to a shop and they quote the heads could be messed up I really don’t want to buy another car she only drove it for a month how can I make sure no mechanic is getting over on me I have some mechanic knowledge no pro but no fool let me know thanks for the videos 👍🏾

[@stuzman52]

More than likely, you'll have some bent valves on the head Adam. When I did this job a few years back, I had about $350 in the repair of the head which included replacing all valves, valve guides, valve seals and a resurfacing of the heads. As prices can vary across the country, I would suspect that this job could run you around $1500 or more. And of course, that's if there is no damage to the bottom end of the engine. If there are issues of this nature such as cracked piston(s), bent rod(s), then it would be more cost effective to replace the engine or possibly buy another car. Good luck and hope it all works out!

[@caralampiojimenes5343]

saludos desde Venezuela, amigo quiero agradecer a usted por los tutoriales de este vehículo. que me sirvieron de mucho para restaurar mi motor , aquí en Venezuela tengo un vehículo Chevrolet optar 2007 y usa esa misma maquina, nunca he restaurado una maquina de ningún vehículo , pero gracias a sus videos me llene de valor y el resultado fue maravilloso, seguí estrictamente cada paso que usted describe, yo y mi familia estamos muy agradecido de usted, mi vehículo funciona muy bien y mis amigos me preguntan de como lo logre, yo respondo que gracias a STUZMAN . mi problema inicial fue que el pistón 4 partió los anillos y tuve que rectificar el bloque (0.20), el cigüeñal ( 0.20). discúlpeme el idioma pero no conozco el ingles, pero no fue problema porque esta muy bien editado los videos, y me ayude con el traductor de google. también quiero agradecer a la asistente de cámara ya que lo hizo muy bien .. gracias muchas gracias ... mi correo ..... [e-mail]