SUZUKI GSXR 600/750 Testing the TPS for Dead Spots using Resistance

This is not meant to be a sure fire way of resolving TPS issues, it’s merely a home grown way of seeing if a dead spot could exist within the TPS’s. Always be sure to test for proper voltages and resistances according to the service manual. When testing for beginning resistance point (closed throttle) the service manual states it should be 0.6 ohms but this value is wrong, you will not be able to achieve this low value when the TPS is mounted onto the throttle body. I’ve tested 3 TPS’s and all beginning resistance values varied between the 1.4-1.8 ohms with an ending value being 4.8 ohms (full throttle). Your input voltage will be 5 volts, this is what the ECM give’s to both TPS’s, When making your own testing power supply unit with a 9v battery and 5v voltage regulator and switch be sure to test the output lead of the regulator to insure it is putting out the correct voltage, these things tend to be off sometimes and you may need to buy more than one to get the 5v output source.
If you’re wondering if the TPS and STPS are the same, yes they are. You could swap them and have the bike run exactly the same after proper alignment of both. The TPS and STPS connector as exactly the same except for one is black and the other is gray. Signal wire for the TPS is Pink while the STPS is signal wire color is Yellow both have an input voltage of 5 volts.
My question is since they are the same part then why does the Suzuki dealership charge you two different prices for each, TPS $110/ STPS $120… don’t believe me, test the resistance and voltages for yourself.
In any case, replacing the TPS did not solve my issue but the readjustment of it made my bike idle a lot smoother.
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[@kaliospits7831]

Dude your awesome at explaining tps topics.. keep making videos bro

[@TheChemistDIY]

Kalio Spits - Greatly appreciate the positive commitment bro, will do, see you next problem.

[@davidalbarran5306]

Podrías subir un video de cómo se instala el sensor del TPS?

[@TurboNeon185]

I'm just wondering if you're testing resistance through the signal wire why is the harness being connected important? You can't just put alligator clips on the ground and signal pins in the tps?

[@TheChemistDIY]

So the C14 code is your TPS but doesn't mean it's bad at the moment. Have you put the bike in dealer mode and seen if it's adjusted correctly.. the level has to be in the center? -00

[@isaacsynamon2879]

Put my bike into dealer mode and C00 doesn’t appear, just C14 with the line at the bottom like this _C14

[@isaacsynamon2879]

I can’t adjust it either, if I have it in dealer mode and move the TPS the line won’t go anywhere, just stays at the bottom

[@TheChemistDIY]

​@@isaacsynamon2879​@isaacsynamon2879 C14 is telling u there's an issue with the TPS.. Not that it needs adjustment.. replace it.. there not that expensive.. 0:00 0:00

[@isaacsynamon2879]

I did replace it, I uh just put a brand new one in it and the c14 code is still there, even swapped a few out and still there, I’m so lost, bike runs like shit

[@TheChemistDIY]

@@isaacsynamon2879 odd.. did you check the connector wires and pins.. also.. not sure if you know but the TPS and the STPS connector will fit each other and there is the chance of getting them crossed.. one is black and the other is gray... I've done it by mistake a few times.. could that be the issue.?

[@christianklett2892]

Hey man, Happy New Year 1st off!!! I have an 03 GSXR-750, everything looks good so it seems, have bypassed the kickstand switch, tip over sensor looks fine and fixed in correct position but... Everytime I hit some bumps or a good bump in the road the bike has an instant loss of power, it won't and hasn't died but acts as if it is or will... It instantaneously comes right back strong as ever... I did have an accident with the bike, well, 2 bad ones actually but I think I actually had the issue prior to this last accident... What could I look for in your opinion??? It went down on it's right side (throttle side) if that helps or matters... This is driving me nuts as I thought it was the kickstand switch or possibly the tip over but I have ruled those both out... Thanks for any input you may have!!!

[@TheChemistDIY]

Happy new years Christian, when you say you lose power dose is it just the motor or are we talking full electrical cut out.. ie gauge cluster flickers on/off as well..?

[@christianklett2892]

@@TheChemistDIY actually no... Just like it is going to stall, I say lose power... Probably not an accurate description... It's like it is going to die or stall but doesn't and never has... Not spitting code or codes and yesterday I purposely went down the roughest road I know trying to make it die out or spit a code but nothing... It just chokes up and almost dies for just an instance but picks right back up...

[@TheChemistDIY]

@@christianklett2892 to me from what your describing sounds like a fuel delivery problem aka fuel pump.. but I would first start by checking my plugs and coil pack connections.. with the tank up flipped/air filter out.. I would wiggle each of the coil packs to see if you get a rough idle or find a lose connection or lose plug.. 2nd pull the plugs to see what kind of condition there in or if cracked or damaged.. from there if all is fine, work your way down to the connections on the injectors..make sure you have good contact.. inspect fuel rail and lines for cracks.. lastly check the connections on the fuel pump.. this means pulling the pump and tightening the wires inside..while your there make sure your filter is good and clean also inspect inside the tank for rust and or debris.. One other thing that i would check is the regulator rectifier.. when these go or begins to fail it kuts power to the engine .. in your case it may be on its last leg or shorting causing sporadic lose or slight lose of power to engine.. all of these things that I have stated will not throw trouble codes as you have stated...

[@christianklett2892]

@@TheChemistDIY thank you so much for responding!!! So, can I run the engine with the air filter out to wiggle the plugs and see if that has any thing to do with it... I just replaced the stator and rectifier and hardwired tge rectifier in due to plastic connection melted... So, I know the charging system is good... I know tge tank is clean but it could very well be an issue you described, I'll definitely check that all out!!! Thanks again!!!

[@TheChemistDIY]

@@christianklett2892 anytime bro..yes you can run the bike without the air box. Just be sure not to drop anything down the 4 stacks. I'm not sure how bad you spill was.. aka what parts were damaged and needed to be removed for inspection or replaced but from what you described it sounds like something Loose or a part that took a good jolt and is working but damaged and acts up upon harsh riding conditions. It could be somthing as simple and lose connection, poor contact or as complex as tracking down a damage wire (electrical issue suck). Case in point: I had the number one spark plug come loose one time and it gave me the exact same issue your describing (boggin/cut out), it took me forever to try and figure that out because you just dont think about a plug backing itself out knowing full well in the back of your mind you torqued them bitchs down.. from that moment forward I made it rule of thumb to always use a diagnostic path (beginning to end) to rule out anything.

[@johnconnersmithllc6095]

I get mine set to were the line is in the middle,try and start it and then the f****** line moves either up or down it won't stay in the middle. Do you know what that means? Also do you have any idea if ethanol may be causing some of the problems in my bike? I had to run and good I put my fuel in it now won't start at all neither will my chainsaw that I put the same fuel in

[@TheChemistDIY]

So adjusting the TPS and STPS is always a Bi^#h.. even the good book says take your time when tightening down the screws. What I like to do is not get the line dead on, instead back it off and a bit and account for the moment of each when you tighten down. For your no start issue (fuel delivery) take a few drop of petro and drop it down into each of the 4 stacks (old carburetor trick).. crank the bike over and see if the bike want to run and then dies.. if this happens then you need work your way back starting from the injectors, fuel rails, lines, fuel pump and then tank to see where the problem lies. If this doesnt happen then you need to move forward in the engine and look at your spark.. (is there any, how strong, how many, is it a coil pack issue or sparkplug issue).. Oh ya, the line only needs to be in the middle at idle.. when you rev the bike it will go up.. not sure if you knew Hope that helps

[@TheJdog513]

Would a C14 FI code constitute changing out the TPS?

[@isaacsynamon2879]

Yes 😊

[@TheJdog513]

@ i actually noticed i forgot to plug it back in 😅

[@ib9459]

Ηi there . I made my own tps test harness tool and i measured the kΩ resistance with the multimeter. In closed throttle i get 1.4-1.6 and fully open throttle it goes up to 20-30 kΩ if i turn the throttle slowly.If i snap it very fast the multimeter displays 1. like it stops measuring....any idea whats wrong?

[@TheChemistDIY]

Well your testing the TPS for a reason, possibly because you feel its giving you an issue, right? Then you just may have found that issue, it could be bad. Only sure fire way to know if its bad is to get a replacement. If you're anything like me and don't like down time in waiting for a part or spending money for a part you may not need then swapping the TPS with the STPS is the way to go. When I measured, both read exactly the same so in essence they are exactly the same part in every way. This is a little extra work because you have to calibrate both after swapping but at least you'll know if your TPS is in need of a replacement, or if your harness tool is working as it should. Also, make sure you have connected the harness connectors correctly, the TPS and STPS harness connectors will fit both interchangeably. One is black and the other is gray, I sometimes get this wrong so its good to mention.

[@ib9459]

@@TheChemistDIY imgur.com/DIvxpl5 The way i measured was to conenct multimeter probes to wires A and C in my homemade tool.

[@Akeixbsl]

I got on my gsxr 600 k7 a c29 , can i change the stps with an new one how do i adjust the stps?

[@TheChemistDIY]

TPS and STPS rarely go bad, It may be thats its just out of adjustment. If you didn't know both are the same part so they are interchangeable to test, but if your purchasing the part, the STPS is sold cheaper for some reason. How to test and set: (ignition off) With the secondary butterflies closed set your digital meter on ohms and test.. your reading should read around 1.6 k ohms closed,. Move your butterflies to full open and it should read 4.5 k ohms.

[@Akeixbsl]

@@TheChemistDIY thanks a lot . But everybody say that i cannot move the stps because of the Feder in the stva

[@TheChemistDIY]

@@Akeixbsl If your STVA looks like mine then yes you can. The STPS does not connect the STVA motor in any way, not sure where you heard that information but the're wrong and you can see that for yourself here kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZfYiapmo82qnpo. The only thing the STPS connects to is the butterfly linkage. If you look at 2:27 in this video you will see a white line on/above my STPS, this is the dealer marked line that shows the correct placement position of the STPS if you so happen to remove. Loosening the torx screw and Lining up the two marks will put you back in the correct value. If you do not have these lines then you will need to do as I previously stated, and use a DMeter.

[@elijahkoenig729]

When you installed the new tps did it fix the problem?

[@TheChemistDIY]

This wasn't the problem. The problem was the regular rectifier was on its way out So I was receiving intermittent voltage that was more noticeable when applying throttle.

[@elijahkoenig729]

@@TheChemistDIY Holy crap thats insane that you figured that one out

[@TheChemistDIY]

@@elijahkoenig729 lol, yeah I felt the same way. All troubling signs pointed to air, fuel, and throttle but once I checked everything out in those departments and it was all good I was forced to look elsewhere. Only thing left in my mind was power delivery. After removing the rear cowl I could see that the harness connector was cooked a bit. It didn't take a genius to figure out that there was an issue going on there. So I replaced the RR and the problem was solved. The RR is a common issue with the GSXR..

[@johnconnersmithllc6095]

Oh yeah I just remembered mine was throwing a code for the exhaust I want to say was 47 but I'm not sure I looked it up and it said the exhaust and I do have aftermarket exhaust on but I never had problems with it before

[@TheChemistDIY]

The code values only go up to 46 in the book that I can remember. C46 is the exhaust control valve actuator. Make sure you have the correct number because C41 is your fuel pump relay which could be the reason why your bike wont start in the first place.

[@JonathanHernandez-xo3rj]

Hey man i have a question LONG ONE I have a Gsxr1000 2001 i been having issues with the throttle.... It loos power if i full throttle the bike it only goes up to 6K rpm masaaan i have check every single damn nail in it everything ECU, Sparks, Coil, Cam sensor, fuel pump, injectors man you name it problem still persists what else could it be?? It doesnt have any wierd noise for me to think in the time chain i was thinking in the TPS STPS?????

[@TheChemistDIY]

Do you have the exhaust acutator assist butterfly in your piping?? Sounds like a STVA issue

[@JonathanHernandez-xo3rj]

I have the black box with a little metal square thing that rotates? But is not connected with the cables that opens the butterflies because the previous owner installed a Yoshi on her so he disconnected the cable of from the ECU and left the rest of the system conected cables and the black box i told you

[@TheChemistDIY]

Ok so this can be a number of things that we need to check. I’m taking it that since you say this is disconnected you have an aftermarket exhaust. Since you still have the rotor assist actuator present it’s not a full exhaust piping system. We need to check if this was done right. This link will show you how to disable the the set valve from the ECU kzbin.info/www/bejne/gZbWaWNmirtkhas . Secondly we need to know if the butterfly is fully open within the Exhaust pipe and this link will show you what I'm talking about kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpPNfISPmJWpmac . If this butterfly is not open it will restrict exhaust flow causing back flow to the engine. What also causes the restriction above a certain speed is the STVA Actuator not working correctly. I have these videos to show you how to troubleshoot this issue and make sure it’s working correctly kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZfYiapmo82qnpo kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z2mug5KIi5WnjLM Heres another helpful link i found on the GIXER forums that may relate to your problem www.gixxer.com/forums/33-general-bike-talk/341118-stva-fix-2000-2003-750-2001-2002-1000-a.html Let me know if these work for you.

[@MrJohn132345]

Oh man thanks a lot a lot man well i will surprise you even more when i tell you that NO DAMN CODES ARE SHOWN bro this is why this bike been a headache no error code but the normal C00 with the line in the middle like it should be but hey that STVA the one that goes connected to the exhaust i will disconnect the whole thing and let you know as soon i do it to see if it work

[@johnconnersmithllc6095]

Jonathan Hernandez I also have a 2001 K1 1000. Mine's been totally f****** up. It sometimes it makes that woodpecker sound what the hell is that do you know?

[@demonicfoxxx]

Why min is 1,8kOm? Manual say that correct adjustment must be 0,6. ?

[@TheChemistDIY]

Demonic, you are correct, the manual does state 0,6 but you will never get this measurement when testing. I did my homework researching many of the forums as well, all stated the book is WRONG. I even went as far as purchase and test 2 extra TSP's to confirm and all 3 (the one on the bike included) tested at 1,8khom or near that value. hope this helps u out

[@demonicfoxxx]

))) ok. I was think that my sensor is broken. But min value is 1.0kOm(!) And how to adjust it? Just turn on min value? O_o

[@TheChemistDIY]

Demonic - there should be a white line marked on the TPS and it's body. this is the OEM dealer marking set position and will most likely get you on or near where u need to be. loosen the adjustment screw and start the bike,. slide up or down and watch your idle tach. 13-15k is where you want to be. it's a little tricky to dial in and u will probably have to adjust it a few times before getting.it. when u tighten down in the screw, make sure to hold right on the TPS because tightening the screw will also bring it out of adjustments. from there it's a fine point adjustment with the throttle cable if need be. remember the bike is going to heat up fast so you need to be quick with your adjustment and lock down or you'll be waiting a few minutes till the engine cools to get back in there for another try. at it.

[@demonicfoxxx]

james moreno ok. thanks. This adjust is just cold start working?

[@TheChemistDIY]

Demonic your first attempt will be cold, but like I said you probably won't get it in the first round and the bike will warm up and fast. Just do ur best at cold attempts giving urself 15-20 minutes in between failed attempts to allow for cooling. Youll know when it's cool enough because you can get your hands back in there without cooking them.

[@blackfox5406]

Friend, you have facebook??, I need to ask you some questions.