Suzuki Outboard Trim tilt motor REBUILD

The tilt motors on the outboards go bad. People would just buy the entire motor casing but all it needs is new brushings. The rebuild saves 1500 bucks especially with 2 outboards. A new motor is 6-8 hundred bucks per engine.

[@Mostxclent]

Great video thanks, I was able to repair my motor without buying any parts, 1 brush was stuck so I cleaned it up with a file and reassembled. Everything is working fine for now!!! Wish me luck. I too bought a backup motor off Amazon, you can get them now with the blade connectors so hopefully no need to splice.

[@kingbernad7345]

You can use a 1/4” socket set drive to easily remove the trim motor. The most difficult to remove is the one in the back corner. You will need a 10mm socket then a 2” socket extension then a swivel joint then the ratchet handle. Thats how I do it.

[@edgarmedero7097]

Hey guys great video I am trying to figure out how to take the trim motor of the engine any help or video on this thanks

[@garrettfriedrichsen1262]

Great video! Thank you. Question, were the magnets within the motor housing in good condition? I'm attempting to repair my DC motor. Water had infiltrated and the glue holding the magnets gave way! I'm looking for rebuild advise on placement/gluing of these magnets. Tx!

[@RuhRohRaggie069]

yes looks like correct way but I would sanded down the sides of the brushes give the old springs good stretch & you would of been on your way, one time I took some brushes for a car and ground, filed & sanded to fit for a motorcycle worked great had to pull a rabbit out the hat or spend at least $200

[@Michael-rt9zq]

Hello, Do you have a part number of the O-ring for the e-motor cap? I can not find this ring anywhere. Only the ring between motor and pump. Thanks a lot!

[@richardkoneski891]

Where did you get the new brushes??”

[@colmcc-ij3nn]

Great video .Thanks for your efforts .Just did the same thing with my mariner 40 trim motor .The motor was soaked in trim oil inside and the brushes were oily .Silly question but does the motor need to be sealed well to stop oil ingress when its reinstalled into the black plastic housing? Dont know a lot about these things but stripped the motor like you sid and it sounds lovely now

[@daallaassyy]

did you end up cleaning the oil out and putting on new seals? Or, did you leave the oil? Curios to know if the oil matters or not. I'm guessing it's supposed to be dry within the motor

[@futuresolar7074]

Please tell me where I can buy those parts?? Thank you

[@lauranardi1940]

Very good work bro... but where can I find the NEW BRUSHES?? are they a spare part fron Suzuki? Cant find them... Can you help please?

[@kingbernad7345]

There are Suzuki part nos for these. 31133-90J10-000 brush set, plus; 31136-90J20-000 breaker assy; 2pcs 31135-94900-000 spring.

[@joshspiers8888]

I have a 2015 DF300AP with either a bad PTT motor or bad pump. I’ve bypassed the PTT relay and fed 12V directly to the PTT with no motion or sound. Is there a way to test the assembly while still on the outboard to determine failure of motor or pump? It would be awesome to avoid manually releasing pressure and having to winch up then hold. Ultimate goal is to pull and replace motor while boat is still in water without getting wet :) Thoughts? Great video- thank you! Also, if it’s the motor that has failed I had hoped to pull and replace the motor without removing the entire assembly. To get to that tough corner bolt you showed at the beginning of the video, does the motor need to be tilted all the way up? Mine stuck about 20deg down from the fully up position.

[@matthewportillo881]

If the Engine is stuck at a higher trim and you have clearance to where you can see the tilt motor. One thing you can try is tapping or banging the black casing of the tilt motor. That will shift the bushings inside and make the motor work again momentarily. One engine was able to do that but the other wouldn’t budge so we had to manually pull it with straps.

[@joshspiers8888]

@@matthewportillo881 After getting mine off, I carefully opened the motor and noticed that one of the brushes was cock eyed in the brush retainer with spring. When I mocked it all back up, I noticed when pushing the brush in and out against the armature the brush would hang up in the slot in a position not even. I believe this was causing my armature to bind. Took a dermel tool with very small sanding tip and touched up the plastic slot the brush rides in to prevent binding. Reassembled, so far so good.

[@billythekid5196]

@@matthewportillo881 is there supposed to be fluid coming out where u take the motor off?

[@JonathanLyon]

simply remove the relays , some outboards have 2, one for up and one for down, one will be connected to Green (down towards the green grass :-) ) and the other to blue (up towards the blue sky :-)). Simply apply 12v to the pin that has the blue wire on it to make the motor go up and apply power to the pin with the green wire connected to it to make it go down. In the case of a single control unit, it will still have 2 relays but won't be obvious, in this case just apply power to the respective blue or green wire

[@chadcoates321]

Awesome video. Thanks for posting. I have a 2016 DF300. TTM just failed. Everything I have read says you have to hoist engine and pull stbd side mount bracket to get to motor. So you all swapped simply by using a long phillips extension and turning with a wrench? Did not remove side mount bracket?

[@frantos2757]

Very good work bro... but where can I find the NEW BRUSHES?? are they a spare part fron Suzuki? Cant find them... Can you help please?

[@matthewportillo881]

We got the brushes of Boats.net. The part numbers for the breaker assembly and the other brush assembly is 33133-90J10 and 31136-90J20

[@matthewportillo881]

Hope this helps.