T Max 45 Adjustable Facemill & First Test Cuts

[@brandgsx9993]

That intro was too funny. Actually laughed out loud. Thanks.

[@marknelson882]

One of my favorite face mills, of all time. The inserts last forever, the finish is good, and tool pressure can be adjusted, to match fly cutting. Sandvic Coromant has always been a leader in cutting tool technology. Congratulations, Adam, you scored with this tool.Mark Nelson

[@designworksdw1949]

Adam i really liked how you set up the shot for the indicating it was really nice being able to see the gauge so clearly.

[@jamesoconnell9396]

And that's the whole thing, Adam. anytime you have that many cutters, adjusting one causes all the others to be off. When I ran wood molders, we would get the knives within five-thou, then joint them in on the machine, the moulder would stay set for a couple of weeks, boxcar's and boxcar's of moulding we ran every week

[@AMRosa10]

Whenever I watch you take cuts like that on the K&T I can't help but think of all of the contraptions that the James Bond villains used to use to try and do him in. One day I want to see you strap a James Bond action figure to one of those cuts and say "Listen, Bloefeld, this is how it's done!"

[@billdlv]

Nice job Adam, I think you have the inserts dialed in perfectly. As you say that face mill probably is best suited for removing a lot of metal with heavy cuts. You've shown before that carbide works well when taking heavier cuts on material, with the cut depth at least = to the radius of the insert.

[@RidgewoodMachine]

I enjoyed the setup info. It's only right to make you have to work for it. Good thing that setting the tool height that closely didn't put you into Hulk Smash mode. :) Nice starter cuts with the tool. I look forward to seeing big cuts on future jobs with that thing as well as the 10" Ingersoll.

[@jaymoney119966]

Your my favorite guy, I could watch you all day but I have to get back to work 👍

[@Vellicht]

A fountain of knowledge, as usual. Awesome video!

[@jeroenruitenberg1359]

this endmill can cut full dept on a heavy machine. thats why the insert is so long and thick. also the body is very robust. it isnt for finishing. although you can use it for that it is not the way it was designed for. thanks for all the videos Abom, greetings from holland!

[@rupertkingsley]

Lovely video! Set up and practical demo. Cheers

[@RGSABloke]

Hi Adam, I think finalising the inserts position off camera once the technique was demonstrated was a good call, cameras and stands can really get in the way and be very frustrating. BTW, the video quality was excellent, even down to showing the very fine scratches in the block of steel which were not detectable by touch - awesome. Kindest regards. Joe.

[@johnferguson7235]

I think that lubricating the threads on the set screws on the cutter will cause them to torque down much smoother and consistently. A little light machine oil might do the trick. A small in-lb torque wrench would also help. Maybe Sandvik gives a torque spec.

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

Great cutter there Adam , Love the finish it leaves ! Enjoyed .. Thumbs up..

[@jimmyfiggs6293]

T-Max And K+T ........Cuttin' Smooth As Can Be

[@bradleyfitkin4141]

I had to laugh when you said it's just a small piece of metal I use for a camera mount. Great video Adam!

[@orkidknog4147]

another great tool to be used around the shop and looks like it cuts good adam

[@edgarmatzinger9742]

Nice job on adjusting the inserts!

[@ChrisB257]

360 seems a bit generous for speed with such a large tool, but - wow - boy does that do some useful work. Sweet. You'll be using that again Adam - for sure. :)

[@RRINTHESHOP]

Great new tool for the shop.

[@archiecude5453]

Nice video Abom.....looking forward to seeing you at the Bach in a few weeks. Cheers.

[@fuzzy1dk]

maybe a sanity check of the insert heights while mounted in the mill, just to verify that you setup on the surface plate works

[@troyam6607]

ABOM about steel block "its just one of my small camera mounts" the rest of us " an inch of that block will make a great oversized welding table " hahaha

[@bcrx7]

It would be interesting to turn the tool 180deg in the spindle and see if it leaves a different finish. How often do you check the run-out on the spindle?

[@bcrx7]

and to be clear, that's an actual question for someone like me to know how often you do actually check the runout, not a smartass comment on "maybe you should check it..." ☺

[@mdshunk]

I'd be interested to see how many of those adjustments held after taking some cuts with it.

[@JohnBare747]

A nice tool to have when you need to peel the rind of some scabby old hunk of metal back to a useable state. Cool as hell, an Abom worthy metal muncher.

[@iainwalker8701]

i would have tried a bigger feed rate when finishing, and taken .02" cut with lubrication of some kind. I use a 45 degree 5.25", 8 insert Kennametal with no adjustment and get a very good finish, as long as inserts are not badly worn. Running .002" per tooth per rev easily gives a 63 finish, and at .004" easily gives a 125 finish. and its been crashed and refurbed on several occasions. Good set up for setting the slides, i was clueless before you said what it was! lol

[@ScottGMerritt]

Thanks, Adam. Love your videos!

[@comictrio]

Those T Max 45's are hungry fellas, they love chewing through with heavy cuts.

[@cncit]

To get a really nice finish I put neat cutting oil on the face to be cut and tilt the spindle tram a tiny bit so the back of the face mill doesn't drag on the part.

[@afnDavid]

Keeping pressure on each side seems to be the key. Now how much are they gonna move when used to cut some...

[@johnreese3943]

What is the size tolerance on the individual inserts? I am guessing a couple thou. Trying to set the inserts to the same height is fine now. What happens when you install new inserts? Will you have to go through the adjustment procedure again. It would seem like a better practice would be to use one insert and move it from pocket to pocket during the adjustment process. That way all the seats would be at the same height.

[@randomdude1786]

nice! you peaked my curiosity and looked that one up and ya the price wow!!! what a great surplus find I bet that lot had some just metal cutting dynamite in it if I saw that in a lot you'd be the first I thought of smooth even chip load if your gonna cut heavy or else a crack opens in the floor and swallows the whole lot very intresting

[@josephwilson6651]

perhaps you should have a sliver assayed for Rockwell and specific alloy content in case you need it for a specific job in the future.

[@shortribslongbow5312]

Nice video Adam thanks for sharing.

[@julianp.1713]

Thanks, gave me some ideas for something I have to do this week. What insert does that facemill take?

[@elcuhhh8761]

Carbide

[@Abom79]

I'd have to dig up the info, can't recall the designation at this time.

[@julianp.1713]

That's odd I have a similar facemill that takes ceramic inserts.

[@Serenissima3]

Can ceramic and carbide inserts be used in the same cutter or do they require a different cutter for each type of insert?

[@julianp.1713]

I don't know if it is an absolute, Adam could advise, but my ceramic don't have a though hole as the carbide s.

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

lets see that heavy cut finish Abom!

[@bcbloc02]

Looks pretty good, would be cool to see a full power cut with it. :-)

[@markferrari9734]

I adjust mine right on the mill with my indicator in the vice. My holder is a cheaper import and wouldnt suprise me if it was crashed a time or 2.

[@isabellaman2545]

That is a sweet facemill. I have not seen one with adjustable inserts. I am like Brian. I want to c it hog full power

[@simonrichard9873]

I have a really old Westinghouse 1/4 hp electric motor. Do you think that would be enough for a makeshift bench grinder?

[@LordOfTamarac]

Simon Richard how fast is it

[@simonrichard9873]

1725

[@Jrca1106]

hey adam I noticed that whenever you put a piece of metal onto a vise you never hammer them in, is their a reason y u don't do that?

[@oxfd611]

I would like to learn more about the type of steel for a tool and how a tool is made.

[@robertkutz]

adam nice tool , how about some shaper time ?

[@combatmedic1980]

Adam, I know the surface plate is supposed to be the ultimate place to measure something. But the only real measurement that counts is on the machine that will be doing the cutting, or am I mistaken ?

[@harrieaerts3298]

You always have some spindle run out, it might be very little but it's there. The arbor has some runout in the spindle, the mill has some runout on the arbor, and the inserts have some runout too. If one takes out the other there is not really a problem, but if it all adds up in the same direction, it can be quite a bit. This is the main reason these mills are adjustable, and actually it should be done on the machine itself.

[@ytmachx]

Very nice. I wish I could turn a tool that big.

[@fredflintstone8048]

Since they move so easily during adjustment, what's to say they don't shift during use?

[@patrickroeill8746]

awesome video thanks adam

[@tridium-go6hw]

Loosen the lows, tighten the highs - seems like I've heard that somewhere before...

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

tridium6111 4 jaw mantra!

[@emilgabor88]

i think that is better to ajust the seets in the spindel because you probeble the taper and the arbor has runout some tenths and how the facemill is so big it probeble amplifys. But sure you dont need that accuracy for a ruffing facemill

[@Sicktrickintuner]

Ya the light cut isn't what they are intended for, they like heavy cuts, under 0.050" it seems to rub more then cut, and that could be why it looks a bit more mashed on the surface.

[@Ujeb08]

That's a tedious job to adjust each cutting face to a tenth. Do you really think that's necessary? I mean I have indicated more run-out on the periphery on brand new quality endmills. But if you really want to go that route, I think mounting the face mill on a dedicated arbor, installing into your mill and then indicate and adjust would be the better method. Just in case there's a little discrepancy on the arbor itself.

[@BentTreeFarmPa]

I have to be one of the first!!! Love the videos Adam, thanks for the hard work.

[@cncit]

Another trick is to use a gauge block on a fixed surface on the machine table..put the face mill in the spindle..lower it down so the gauge block will just slide under the tooth..then rotate to the next tooth and set it to the gauge block again then match all the teeth in the same way..never lower the face mill onto the gauge block obviously!!

[@Sketch1994]

Those inserts look kinda like wipers. If that's the case you need some crazy high feed rate(but still with a decent surface roughness) but it would also require some crazy horsepower figures(at this size it could easily make use of 40-60kW(about 50 80hp)

[@Sketch1994]

Also...the granite plate is definately the most accurate way to setup the inserts in relation to the cutter, but setting them up on the mill would also correct any spindle runout.

[@johnnybanks6545]

not nit pic but. feed / rpm X flutes = chip load. at 5in min feed = .0014 and at 9in min = .0025. should be able to run a .005 to .010 at .25 to .375 deep no problem with that cutter and mill. would like to see you make some big chips!!!!

[@Abom79]

Yes that face mill can handle a whole lot more then what I shown, but i was just testing it out, and not wanting to use up my good steel.

[@t63a700]

@Abom79 Abom, Would you be up to the challenge to face mill the deck surface on two GM Durax 6.5 heads by about 0.008" to 0.010"? There are some fresh blue berries in it for you and some blue rags. All in a day's trip to your shop for machine work and you can film the op for a SNS episode. Todd

[@Abom79]

+Manning Machine Email me to discuss. Thanks.

[@_AmorFisH_]

nice work

[@loxtimb]

is an indicator a measuring tool or not ????? Your setup is good for tv but if your face mill holder doesn't run dead tru and you know it won't this should be done in the machine just my opinion

[@Abom79]

Hey man, just showing you another way to get the job done. Wanna know how many people set there inserts like this over the years?

[@DSCKy]

Would a little oil or coolant help?

[@Abom79]

For face milling it's best to run them completely wet, or dry. Coolant on an open machine like that is not good. Oil will help sometimes with the surface finish though.

[@christophernewton2579]

I bet with coolent it would perfect

[@ColKorn1965]

If I used a C-clamp in conjuction with a surface plate and insert cutter the guy who owns this shop I work in would blow a gasket.

[@manga12]

all the teeth got to be adjusted, sounds like a lot of set up work, crazy, but I guess when you need percision it must be done.

[@chevy1986]

👍

[@tonywildschutz1646]

they all have to read the same for a good finish ,we had them at work there are terrible to set ive done it yes everytime

[@LordOfTamarac]

"They don't want you to use the surface plate without calibration... so we're gonna use the surface plate without calibration" I'm making DJ Khalid references on a metalworking video, what am I doing with myself...

[@StreuB1]

That is a metal chewing monster

[@trainedtiger]

Looks like the steel is probably 4142 PHT.

[@jesusisalive3227]

let's see that thing hog some metal!👍

[@63256325N]

Nice tool. You wouldn't be able to yell at KZbin for me would you? I'm not getting any notifications for you and a few other guys I sub to. It sucks. I had to search to see if you posted anything, for this and a couple others I missed. Thanks.

[@jryer1]

It boggles my mind that the gauge can actually measure 0.0001"

[@ShainAndrews]

Click bait. This is video is about trung up a camera mount. Just happened to use a T Max for the job.

[@miles11we]

nope, just checked, its abom79. Thought it must have been machining tips and tricks with those wimpy cuts.