Table saw secret nobody will talk about from the good old days, C&T episode 180

Over 50years ago I was trained by pro wood workers to use a table saw, and old school guys still know about this theory but refuse to talk about it. Other topics on this channel are: wood projects, tools, tool repairs, custom jigs, basic wood shop work, wood tools, 3D printers, RV repairs, car repairs, custom work
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Craftsman 12 inch table saw used for this topic

[@marcellemay7721]

I've been a carpenter for 40 years. I use a job site table saw out in the field. I don't even own a big heavy shop saw. Here's a few things that I do for safe operation of a table saw. I always set the blade height to at least the gullet of the blade, but not too high, for saw dust clearing, and it also helps to keep the work piece down on the table and not float above the table. The blade also cuts better that way. I always check the rip guide with a tape measure at the front of the blade and also the back of the blade... I don't care how good the rip guide is. I always knock the back of the rip guide open a tad to make clearance for the board to pass through ( thats the #1 cause of kick back, no clearance on the back side of the blade.) I only use a push stick if I'm ripping something narrower than about 2 1/2 to 3 inches. When I push a board thru, I always wrap a a few fingers over the top of the rip guide, just in case something wants to pull my hand into the blade, my hand won't go there because I have most of my hand wrapped over the top and around the other side of the rip guide. The number one cause of accidents is just simply not respecting the possible dangers and not paying attention.

[@SirTools]

Good stuff here ! Thanks for this one :)

[@dans4900]

On the job site with everyone using it. I like when the fence is open on the end. Good tip. Run the fence a little out of parallel

[@marcellemay7721]

@dans4900 I posted this over a year ago. I've since obtained a nice heavy, 3hp cast iron saw for my shop with an awesome solid rip guide. I actually got it for free from a good friend. That one is perfectly parallel so that I can use it on either side of the blade. You can't knock that rip guide over like on a cheap job site saw.

[@rodneywheeler2278]

And, as I just mentioned to this videos poster, no mention of a saw guard. Why he mentions safety without the mention of an upper saw guard is ludicrous. You too.

[@marcellemay7721]

@rodneywheeler2278 A blade guard just gets in the way. If you're too stupid to keep your hand out of the path of the saw blade... maybe you shouldn't be using a table saw.

[@dochertyinbc]

I am a retired pro who still works wood as a hobby. My dad was a professional cabinet maker/joiner all his adult life. He taught me to adjust the blade to where the gullets clear the wood, enabling good blade tracking, further, it promotes clearing excess cuttings from the blade while also it keeps the blade cooler. This has served me well. The only hospital visits I've had from woodworking are a cut experienced while sharpening a chisel, and a slightly shortened finger tip that occurred while jointing a board long past fatigue from a LONG day had set in. Don't work with power tools when brain fogged!

[@SirTools]

Thanks for this post. It is all about doing it right.

[@hardnox6655]

Interesting! Thanks for the info. I used to do it the old school way. Decades ago I tired of having sawdust thrown at me so I dropped the blade to 1/8" above the wood surface along with a proper push stick/push block. I am a professional woodworker of over 40 years. No kickbacks ever. The key is a sharp blade. I've cut through the nastiest of wood with a sharp blade without issue. I have found that it's the cheap blades that are the most expensive in the long run.

[@wulf67]

1. Sawdust is the least dangerous thing a table saw will ever throw at you. 2. “Professional” means that you get paid to do it, not that you’re an expert in the best practices for safety. Johnny Knoxville and all the transvestite prostitutes on Hollywood Boulevard are also professionals. 3. None of the people in the world’s cemeteries had ever made a fatal mistake before. There’s a first time (and a last time) for everything.

[@timh7156]

Totally agree. Keeping a sharp blade on the saw solves so many problems whether it’s a table, or a circular saw. A dull blade will cause the wood to lift up and kick back plus it makes an ugly cut. It also makes the machine work harder and wear out faster.

[@steveemmins3728]

I would encourage any novice or experienced woodworkers to follow the advice offered up by this gentleman. I’m an old-time woodworker who incidentally only has 7 fingers remaining -Yes, I too was bitten by a table saw, amputated 3 digits from my left hand instantly. It’s too late for me but this gentleman is trying to help prevent further injuries to people and I respect & appreciate his efforts -Listen to his words. Nice job on the video by the way. Cheers from Toronto.

[@leehaelters6182]

Thanks for the hard won advice, feller. I am sure that at least one person will be saved from a maiming just for reading this.

[@chris431]

I got nicked once in my 42 years woodworking and it was ripping PVC which is slippery stuff, had the blade 1/8 above and walked away with a little more than a scratch. Did have kickback one time when I was just beginning ripping parquet flooring, took a piece right to the chest. Accidents do happen because the saw doesn’t care and one moment of disrespect and it’s not good. No music playing, wife knows not to distract me. I know guys who have gotten bitten by joiners,table saws, radial saws. Good video

[@DrManhattan84]

I disagree, I do detailed cuts with the table saw and before I could afford a Sawstop I was using a contractors table saw on the floor (tile covered in sawdust) I slipped a little and my thumb got bit by the saw. Had I not set the depth so the saw was just peeking out of the top of the wood, I wouldn't be able to play video games with my son or piano anymore.

[@leehaelters6182]

@@DrManhattan84, you found the best compromise for the stock you were cutting, the task at hand, and your equipment! Very glad that you escaped a maiming. Enjoy every minute that you can, with your son!

[@Ritalie]

@@DrManhattan84 Precisely. I made a grave error 4 months ago, because I was tired. It wasn't an accident, it was a case of me being half asleep after working 10 hours in construction. I set the blade low, but did everything else wrong. I had a severe kickback, and if the blade had been just 1/2" higher, I would have lost 4 fingers. But I set the blade about 1/4" above the wood, and I only cut about 1/4" into 4 of my fingers. The blade hit the bone, and took chips out of the bone in 2 fingers. But my fingers are fine, and I didn't' lose any fingers. But the thought that I came SO close to losing 4 fingers, is traumatizing and I haven't been able to use my saw again until I completely rebuild it with a riving knife or splitter.

[@waynekolvoord968]

Back in 1969 my High School shop teacher demonstrated how dangerous table saws are, no guards, no riving knife, blade as high as it would go, we all stood behind him as he dropped a scrap of 2x4 on top of the blade and we watched as it flew 50 feet to the back wall and shatter, have never had a problem with power tools as I respect them.

[@SirTools]

I'll bet he made his point

[@donhepler9185]

I totally agree with you I'm 73 years old first time I used a table saw I was 12 years old I still have all my fingers if I can see the blade I have sense enough to keep my fingers out of it thanks appreciate it

[@SirTools]

Super thanks Don for this one :)

[@DominikusTV]

Don't try this at home. Do it at school.

[@leehaelters6182]

@@DominikusTV, good one!

[@ericgarst7882]

I was a little worried about installing the blade after reading a couple of reviews. But it was amazingly easy. Took about 1 minute. Works great kzbin.infoUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . Cuts easily and is perfect for pocket cuts I needed to make for replacing some old deck boards.

[@SirTools]

🤠

[@josepheller8395]

I see you refurbished that old craftsman table saw. I bought one a few years back that didn't have a fence. I ended up putting a accusquare fence on it. Best investment I've made. Good to see someone still using the older saws.

[@SirTools]

The sound of that old saw is amazing. Smooth, quiet and powerful.

[@johnmcgovern5296]

I was always told (and followed) my shop teachers advice in the 80s that the blade should always be above the piece by one full tooth. Never had an issue.

[@SirTools]

Thanks John for this one :)

[@bigdaddysshop8180]

I run mine about a half tooth above the piece I'm cutting.. if your hand slips it's a cut not a finger missing.

[@benread9418]

As a professional Wood Machinist/Joiner taught by some very talented, old school guys. I was always told a high blade reduces the cut surface (amount of blade to wood contact) but gives a rougher cut because of the exit angle. A low blade height increase the cut surface, and therefore the force needed to push the timber through as well as the work done by the motor, but the exit angle will give a cleaner cut. I generally stay in the middle ground and adjust the height based on what I’m trying to achieve

[@andrewhudson2860]

Professional wood machinist from the 1960s. Try using a finer blade, raising the blade and FFS use a riving knife and a blade guard. Seen too many fingers on the dusty floor. If you use the guard, you can raise the blade and you only have a small area on the front of the blade showing. It also helps to stop kick back, that’s what the riving knife is for. It stops the wood from gripping the blade. Push sticks are useful. Be safe woody.

[@alcamerc9923]

Been cutting wood for decades, but even today, after all the experience I’ve gained over the years, I cut scared. That freaking blade scares me. That is why I make every cut like a new chapter in my life and the ending, a happy one. My beloved father said to me long time ago “know where your fingers are at all times.” Thanks, Dad. Yes, I know where you are. God bless!

[@lad60606]

That is the right philosophy. **Cut scared** I do every time. For the last 15 years.

[@alexkitner5356]

Same here, I don't know that I feel like I'd use the word scared but definitely a massive level of respect just a notch less than fear to the dangers that are inherent to a table saw but also tempered with some confidence. That balance is good to keep from making a mistake out of timidness while also giving it the massive caution the dangers merit. In the thirty years I've used table saws I've never lost that respect for the dangers or allowed complacency to set in.

[@douglasanderson485]

I've been woodworking for 40 years and have had very few incidents with kickback. The other day I was using my homemade tapering jig to taper some legs. I had it all set up and then I realized I didn't have my zero clearance insert installed. Big mistake. The wedge of the taper came off and went inside the insert and bam. It sounded like a m80 going off. It broke one of my garage door windows and I felt the breeze of something barely missing my head even though I was standing to the side of the saw. I learned my lesson and I was lucky. I had to say a little prayer after that.

[@SirTools]

Geeez...Doug, don't leave us just yet. WoW..

[@EricLS]

For sure. The little bits falling into the standard plate have been 99% of the sketchy things to happen with my saw. Really need to get a zero clearance

[@applebutter4036]

this makes sense to me. Have to say though, In all of my years of using a table saw, the only times I've come close to hurting myself are when I'm trying to rush, or I'm distracted. I've got an old saw without a riving knife and there's no doubt it's a dangerous machine, but my rule is NEVER rush and avoid any possible distraction. No music, podcast, friends, pets, day dreams, ect, when the table saw is being used. Also, if you're trying an unusual cut, or a new material, make sure you know what you're doing and understand the potential hazards first. It's those unforeseen issues that catch you off guard.

[@SirTools]

No rush and plan it out before cutting, you betcha

[@garyolsen3409]

You want to have total concentration, know where your fingers are and have good control at all times.

[@billhill3526]

Double check. Then when there is no distractions as you suggest, triple check.

[@ronsullivan132]

And just like the C-130 that had a big red line on the fuselage marking the rotation plane of the props, stay out of the rotational plane of the blade. I always stand off center so if the board does get launched back I will not be there.

[@bobbyt9999]

Yep, very sound advice. I'm saying this because of an incident that happened to me quite a few years ago. Although this happened on a jointer instead of the table, it can apply to anything in the shop that has a sharp, spinning and exposed edge to it. I was using my jointer and while doing so I sliced my fingernail off. The main reason this happened? Overconfidence. I'd used this machine so often it was like second nature to me. It means that there was almost no concentration on what I was doing. I was very lucky because my finger is still on my hand and still works normally - minus most of the fingernail. Since this happened I have become just a little bit afraid of these tools when using them and I was telling someone who has a lot more experience me. He said that this can be a good thing because it ensures that I am checking, double checking and then triple checking what I'm doing before I begin my cut. This bit of fear makes me aware of the sharp spinning blade.

[@tlong4577]

Nice to see David Carradine doing something constructive after retiring from films.

[@LeslieDugger]

Retiring? he killed himself. Technically, it is one way to retire.

[@hakancarlsson2881]

​@@LeslieDuggerDon't be a jerk off and get hung up on semantics. 😉

[@joliekarno]

I had to look several times. He really does look like the spitting image of David Carradine.

[@heknows5418]

@@LeslieDuggerisn’t Carridine the one that choked the wrong chicken

[@joekosichek9478]

Excellent share, C&T! The simplest and most logical reason I was ever given for rip cutting with the blade up high was, "...if you can clearly see it, then you will avoid it!" (let's call this Lesson 1). As for kick-back - yeah, just don't stand there! EVER! (Lesson 2). ...for all the working contractors out there (who can scarce afford time off due to severe injury)... Lesson 3: ALWAYS take off your so-called contractors' gloves before operating any shop tool, and... Lesson 4: If it's someone else's table saw on your jobsite, have THEM make the cuts - they know that machine way better than you do. ...and finally for all of us... Lesson 5: SLOW DOWN AND PAY ATTENTION! (I have learned all these lessons the HARDEST way possible, I regret to report.)

[@SirTools]

Really like that last one #5 :)

[@53roger]

Good info, thanks. I been woodworking since around 1960 and I am a retired safety expert. I really get ticked at these young youtube kids with missing fingers trying be a safety expert. Woodworking as with any job or hobby using power tools poses risks. A smart person will assess the risks, hopefully take some sort of action to minimize them and make the cut. As you correctly pointed out: with the blade low (as most youtubers say is the best and safest, that in itself introduces a SECOND hazard of a higher chance of kickback). And along with that higher risk of kickback comes a higher chance that your hand will end up coming into contact with the blade during the kick back event...so much for being the safest way. I just watched that happen yesterday on a video where the blade was really low, it kicked back a piece of wood that pushed/pulled his hand across the blade causing serious injury. I, like you am old school and keep my blade a little higher, use feather boards, push sticks or whatever is appropriate to keep me as safe as possible and enjoy the hobby. I just finished a 36X36 oak Carrom Board one side/Checker board other side. Loving retirement and woodworking. Be safe.

[@SirTools]

Right on !

[@peterb2400]

Young KZbin kids with missing fingers trying to be safety experts? Where? Sounds pretty made up.

[@Curtis86]

When I started building cabinets about 16 years ago my boss taught me to put the blade up almost twice the thickness of the material. I'll be 35 tomorrow and still consider myself young. But after watching the video, reading these comments, and giving my comment, I'm beginning to think I'm old school myself.😄

[@SirTools]

yeap...your old school...in my club :)

[@illestofdemall13]

@@SirTools Sometimes old school is more a way of thinking, rather than just how many times you've circled the Sun while living on this planet. I am 36 and have picked up some "old school" knowledge from my dad, and other elders who have been kind enough to share their knowledge (like yourself). Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Personal responsibility is another old school think I believe in. One needs to learn how to use the tool and respect it. I can't blame my accident on a youtube video if I were to make such an unfortunate mistake.

[@TheHungrySlug]

I was about to say the same thing. From blade height as double the wood thickness, for the best cut. Also that I, myself, am 35, till April that is. I learnt a lot from just watching my Pop in his shed doing wood work and metal work. It's a cousin of mine that took off the top of a finger on a band saw when he worked in a picture framing business. But I got my arm caught in the exposed gears of a metal lathe, while reaching to turn its power off. Oops

[@arucarddimples1944]

@@TheHungrySlug saws are bad enough but THAT worries me more. Rollers, printing presses, lathes, chains, and anything with gears exposed under power is extremely dangerous. All it has to do is grab a part of clothing, or PPE, and then it can pull you in and have it's way with you. It can happen so fast even trying to hit an e-stop might not prevent an accident. Hopefully it will safe your life but you might lose an arm in the meantime.

[@V21IC]

As a less-than-novice I see two forces at work. One is personal safely and the other is cut quality. I believe that we should NEVER sacrifice personal safely to obtain quality cuts nor to improve efficiency. Lumber is sold, cut, and get thrown away. However, from a tiny cut to a complete loss off some part of the body is permanent and not retrievable! Some old-school is good. However, don't forget the advances made to minimize the possibility of these injuries. I've learned that it's important to: 1. Keep pieces firmly pressed down on the table and against the fence! 2. Feed through material at a constant rate towards and past the saw blade. 3. Keep fingers well away as possible from the throat plate and blade. The only exception is when machine is unplugged for changing blades, throatplate, and cleaning. 4. Make use of an outfeed table or props. 5. Make us of some infeed prop so you could focus on a the pressure downwards to the table and sidewards to the fence! 6. Don't stand in the way of the smallest piece of material after the cut. It's the smallest pieces that tend to be more volatile. 7. Always endure that fence is not forcing material towards the blade while cutting! 8. Use all the safety 'gadgets' that came with your table saw; or those that are available after purchase. Think of them as your bodyguards. They are there to minimize and neutralize threats. 9. Your personal protection is your sole responsability! 10. Overconfidence, distraction, tiredness, rush, impatience are some of the most dangerous traits that undermine your personal safety! Remember, the finest piece of woodworking that you can ever make is your safety!

[@christianburke3106]

Years ago as a newbie, I set the blade "too high" according to modern recommendations. When I learned I was supposed to have the blade low and tried it, it made cutting a lot harder (presumably due to greater friction) and I got more burning. To me, it also seemed intuitively more dangerous from a kickback perspective, especially when cutting something like a large flexible panel that could easily lift up and get on top of the blade.

[@stevel6895]

I spent 30+ years working in cabinetry and display work. I always set my blade at the notch at the bottom of the tooth, about a 1/4 to 3/8" above the wood. I also used the splitter/anti kick behind the blade, this insures that if there is any binding after the cut it will not close up and of course no kick back. The biggest detriment to table saw safety is repetition, working one operation all day one can become lackadaisical and start to drift mentally. Time to take a break.

[@billhill3526]

I agree, but not everyone is using a fancy cabinetry table saw in a woodworking shop.

[@zcobryant]

I was told this was the proper blade height because it allows sawdust to empty out of the troughs properly.

[@EricLS]

Absolutely. I am trying to pull metal splinter out of my knuckles right now from getting lazy with my grinder. Luckily I haven’t had any close ones with the table saw yet

[@thomassellers7613]

I think it would have been good especially for beginners to explain the importance of aligning the blade straight with the table, and likewise the fence aligned with the table. Another VERY important point to mention is keeping the fence out of way when crosscutting using the miter gauge. I’ve used a table saw for nearly 60 years, and a couple of years ago, I let my common sense lapse for a second, and a short piece got trapped and flew out like a bullet. It struck me on the right side of my chest, and man did it ever hurt! I had abrasions, a bruise, and was sore for about 2 weeks. And finally, standing to the side a bit, out of the line of fire, is ultra important habit to develop! Good video, thanks for sharing, I’m sure lots of people will benefit from it!

[@SirTools]

Very good thoughts here

[@lectro88]

I don't see this as a beginners topic. This is more for seasoned users that have been brow beat..."this is how you do things" Just my opinion. He's talking about dark side topics, not beginners safety... they can get that from stumpy or anybody else.

[@SirTools]

@@lectro88 Exactly, and thanks for posting

[@haroldneely9253]

Yep, been there

[@MMWoodworking]

I was taught to put the bottom of the gullet of the tooth above the piece. So, it varies in height, but you essentially always have a minimum of a full tooth and a hair above the wood. I get good cuts, it isn't high enough to fully sever a finger in one go, and it reduces the force needed to push the piece through. For running very thin pieces through the table saw I just use a feather-board and a push-block. The feather-board applies lateral pressure, and also prevents any easy kickback, so all I have to do is apply forward and down pressure with the push block/stick from above.

[@eugenedasher8380]

I was told to adjust blade so the bottom of the gullet of the tooth is even or just a hair above the surface of the wood you are cutting so it helps make the blade to run cooler and to more easily eject wood chips that gather in the gullets. Any suggestions?

[@thedieiscast9729]

Hi, I live and work in the UK. Our saw fences and systems were very different to yours in the USA, Different remember I didn't say better. I started in the shop at age 15 (1965)as an apprentice. The fence would typically not extend beyond the gullet of the saw tooth nearest to the operator. This was to reduce the chance of kickback. The first full-length fence I saw was on an imported contractor saw. It was and likely still is a legal requirement for saws to be fitted with a riving knife and a top guard ( in a workplace as opposed to a home shop) and to have a push stick with a birdsmouth cut and be least 14" long. many saws were not fitted with a rise and fall so the saw blade could be 8" out of the table. And of course, if the timber being cut was not true the round side would go towards the fence. Thanks for your video and everyone else's comments.

[@tifrap]

I can vouch for what you say too. Watching this movie my concerns are more about the extent of the fence beyond the cutting edge - cuts release the stresses in the wood (especially with fast grown cheap pine) that will sometimes result in a bow developing, so why have the fence press the wood into the back face of the blade? As for those cumbersome push devices, I doubt the wisdom of a full grip handle to wrap your fingers around, Id rather be able to just whip my hand away, and not remove it from a hole first.

[@ReZipped]

Excellent information. My neighbor gave me a very old table saw yesterday, with zero safety features. I haven't used a table saw in over 50 years, and then only in shop class. And more than 25 years ago I lost my left arm in an electrical accident. I've been getting into woodworking now and am using a circular saw, power planer, miter saw and router. It's fun and I take a lot of precautions. After watching this video I'm wondering if I can ever safely use a table saw, let alone the antique my neighbor gave me.

[@andresherrera4158]

I don't know about the power planer, but of all the other power tools you use, I think the table saw can be the safest in your situation because it's set in one place, held the table, guided by wall etc. I would figure out how stand away from the line of cutting towards the side of the scrap wood which is the least likely to fly towards you at the end of the cut. Do a bunch of trial cuts on scrap wood just to get a feel for it. If you don't feel safe and you can more or less tell why that is, follow your intuition. But if you can't really tell why you're afraid, it may be just because you feel at a disadvantage physically, but not necesserilly because something is actually wrong. Good luck and I admire your drive to create.

[@twopoolpeople]

Thanks for the honest info! I was taught over 50 years ago that ALL power tools can hurt you and to respect them and know what the hell you're doing before using them. I always had "good" homeowner type table saws and in all these years had 1 kickback (into the gut) and no cuts. I raise the blade to the bottom of the gullet and always use a sharp blade. Equally important as keeping your hands away from the blade is to make sure the fence is properly aligned. I was taught Sharp is Safe. I've seen idiots get hurt using dull drill bits.

[@SirTools]

Thanks for the honest comment :)

[@otallono]

Well.. statistics don't lie. Table saw is more dangerous than all of those power tools. It's the least forgiving when you have a lapse in concentration..and no one is perfect in that department, you could little follow anyone on the road for a few miles and see a lapse in concentration in some way, so the more comfortable you become with something, the more likely you'll have those. I'd prefer to get comfortable with a track saw than a table saw... If something does happen, well probably nothing will. Life is more important than convenience.

[@iancharnas]

Terrific video! You did a great job of presenting two schools of thought in a fair and levelheaded way. Cheers.

[@Imightberiding]

Thanks for the video & your perspective. More than 40 yrs of carpentry, wood working & cabinet making. I can't even remember for certain from whom or where I learned my preferred blade height. I suspect it was as a young apprentice. I was taught to set the blade height high enough for efficiency but low enough for safety. This means I always raise the blade at apex or top of the blade which is the highest point above the wood/work piece so that the bottom of the gullet between the teeth is just above the piece being cut. About 1/16" - 1/8". This allows for clean, non burning cuts, allows the blade to fully eject the debris, chips, sawdust (that's what the gullets are for). This in turn helps keep the blade from over heating & running cool. It also places the front teeth in a downward trajectory at the leading edge/front to avoid kickback but the blade isn't so high that it will remove a whole finger. Best of both worlds. Relatively low blade exposure. High enough to cut straight, cleanly & with minimal heat build up by ejecting cut debris while minimizing kickback. I also always apply this method to my circular/skill saws. The blade is set just deep enough so that the bottom of the gullet is just below the work piece. Cheers from the west coast of Canada.

[@leehaelters6182]

A great way to describe that particular trade-off, "high enough for efficiency but low enough for safety". Pithy.

[@davidsellars646]

Hello, just found this channel. I always cut with the blade high. Your common sense explanation is right on. You can prove this all with geometry, trig, vectors and the whole engineering thing. My first table saw was one I made when I was in my mid-teens and I've been using them ever since. That is some distance above fifty. Also, been around sawmills, large remanufacturing saws, etc. The best safety tool is to watch what you are doing and keep your hands away from the blade. Some wood, especially green, will have stresses in it and will kick back. You have to account for it. Using a hollow ground blade helps. A sharp blade is essential. Some years back, while taking some survey classes at a Community College, I had to rip some rough old lumber into survey stakes in the wood shop. The wood instructor launched into me for having the blade above the board. The stakes didn't get cut. It was too dangerous to cut that stuff in that way.

[@stuckinmygarage6220]

Interesting. Your comment and this video convinced me to go experiment with all kinds of stuff. I can get green stuff, too. I forgot about that. Thank you

[@mychalevenson7710]

I was taught to clear the gullets by a blade manufacturer. They said that cools the blade enough to minimize burning and to clear any sawdust, but not so high that it guarantees that you'll lose an appendage.

[@SirTools]

That was a popular rule for the saw dust

[@waynehigden]

Just finished watching the video. I have always have the attitude that I keep the blade just high enough to let the edge clear below the gap behind the teeth. No matter whether it is carbide or all steel design. Just keeping it below yet above allows debris to flow away from the area. Nice hat, which tells me you and I have a background of working on planes. Mine was with C-123,”White Whale” and 121s with ADC back in the 60s. Look forward to watching more videos.

[@melissaf2620]

I just watched your video on using a table saw. It was the first “real” wood working tool I got. I experienced kickback early on and have not used it since because of this. My Dad gave me a set of push blocks, but still I haven’t pulled the saw back out. Thank you for not only sharing the different aspects of safety, but also the clear and simple way you explained the how and why. I’m glad I found your videos and have subscribed. Looking forward to watching more of the good info you share!

[@SirTools]

Could be best not to use that saw if your nervous around it.

[@ReelSpider]

@@SirTools Any tool is most dangerous when you are afraid of it... Start small, and have someone come and work with you with it until you are comfortable. It's always a good idea to have a shop buddy around when you are learning to use a new tool, someone to dial 911...

[@ProspectorsGhost]

Years ago, at the beginning of that years woodshop class one of the first things my Woodshop teacher in junior high did was hold up the table saw's fence and told us students that, that fence was the most dangerous piece of the table saw, and that if it was used improperly while using it during the process of cross-cutting boards it would more than likely cause the "abuser" (meaning the table saw user), a horrific amount of undue pain and suffering due to the possibility of creating a dangerous "Kick-Back" situation when the board being cut became twisted and jammed itself between the table saw blade and the fence. He stated that it was called a "Rip Fence", and that it was called a "Rip Fence" for one reason, and one reason only. It was to be used only for ripping boards in combination with a ripping blade, and was not to be used during the process of cross-cutting boards in combunation with a Cross-Cutting blade. He then explained to us students that if he observed (or caught), any of us students using that "Rip Fence" during the cros-cutting process, or even if it was sitting on top of the table saw during the cross-cutting procedure, he would immediately cease all woodshop procedures (until he returned from the principles office), and then would escort that student to the principles office to discuss safety procedures with the principle, then write up a written report pertaining to what occurred, and temporarily suspend that student from the use of the wood shop, and its equipment for two weeks, and would give that student a failing grade for that semester. That woodshop teacher was mighty serious about "Safety in the Woodshop", and I have never forgotten either that woodshop teacher, or his "Safety " message pertaining to the proper use of the "Rip Fence".

[@SirTools]

Good teacher by sounds of it ! Thanks for this comment it is interesting to hear some of the old experiences from wood shop.

[@billhill3526]

I've been using a table saw 40 plus years. I agree, it is one of the most dangerous tools. I use the push tools also. Please don't forget, to not put yourself in the line of fire. Standing to the side is as important as keeping your fingers away. I've seen a few injuries from kick back. We can get into other things like feather boards, but safety is where it starts. Thumbs up and fingers out of way.

[@markmurto]

It may not happen as often, but a lock-on electric hand tool like a grinder is extremely hazardous if it catches you. People put a paddle sanding disk on a grinder, It can run out of control over a good portion of your body or head, and when it finally stops grabbing, its not because its off, but has burnt in where its not grabbing any more. Horrible injuries occur with spinning tools. Never use a lock-on trigger with grinders, drills, or rotating hand tools, chain saws, or routees. I know they save from fatigue, but in a split second its a mistake.

[@googlesbitch]

Although you call it a kerfing knife, it's commonly referred to as a riving knife and another type is called a splitter. The riving knife moves up and down with the blade because its attached to the trunnion while a splitter is fixed to the top. Riving knife is considered the better design since it's closer at the back of blade to support cut piece immediately after it has passed the blade. Most riving knifes can also be adjusted flush to top of blade so a dado cut can be made while still retaining the use of a riving knife but most splitters are in the way so it has to be removed or a special one has to be made for shallow cuts. As for the blade height, it should be raised high enough to allow proper venting and chip removal and most manufactures recommend raising blade up until carbide blade exits completely above material and some gullet gap is exposed. Keeping most of the blade teeth under a piece produces more friction and burns which increases chances of binding and kickback.

[@SirTools]

Not sure where the Kerf name came from.

[@googlesbitch]

@@SirTools Etymology. From Middle English kerf, kirf, kyrf, from Old English cyrf (“an act of cutting, a cutting off; a cutting instrument”), from Proto-Germanic *kurbiz (“a cut; notch”), from Proto-Indo-European *gerbʰ- (“to scratch”).

[@outlaw7x77]

I'm just now at age 59 getting back into woodworking. My fear of my Craftsman table saw blade is no less now than back in woodshop in the late 1970's. I'm really glad you took the time to talk about blade heights because its something I dont ever remember learning but I wonder about it every single time I use the saw. IMHO: part of being safe is being efficient. If a blade is cutting sharp and efficient then you dont use as much force to guide it through your cut. Less force means less chance of slippage. I only have high school woodshop for experience but I once witnessed a piece of wood kick back and stick into a concrete wall behind the perhaps donkeyish teen boy making the cut. Also: the Safety shield I remember using seemed to get in the way more than keep you safe. I've never tried a nerd or whatever but that seems like a good thing to try. I think most important is common sense and no distractions. As an amateur I really try to take my time. Sometimes I get in the Zone where everything just flows...but without experience that is rare. Thanks again...I am going to try raising my blade higher...like 200-250% of the thickness of the piece being cut. Up until I watched your video I was adjusting the blade so that the throat of the blade was just coming out of the top of the wood surface but like you said that makes more friction and raises the risk of kickback.

[@SirTools]

Now days it is all about safety and heck, that's not a bad thing. I just wanted the old school out in the open for all to see and understand we had reasons too :)

[@chriskelvin248]

Agree 100%! What are a couple of woodworker sayings? Dull tools are more dangerous than sharp tools & let the tool do the work.

[@louislandi938]

I will pay attention and obey anyone who has been making sawdust as long as you and still has all 10 fingers! Thank you for passing along solid information and being concerned about us!

[@SirTools]

Thanks Louis :)

[@MikeSheasheaDtree]

I was up a 3/8 inch, I'm 62 used a table table since high school. We recently moved, and in the move I threw out all scraps of wood, including my two push stick/guides, since I sold my old table saw for the move. I bought a nice new to me Porter Cable, foldable with wheels and took OFF the two safety guides. I was running some oak through trimming it down to 1/2 inch thick, with the plastic guide that came with the saw and no second outside guide. Uh oh! I got confused, reached OVER... That was two months ago and a trip to the ER with 11 stiches I still have trauma writing here about it. I put a 1 1/2" long x 3/8" dado in my thumb! The thumb is looking much better now, thought the nerves are still trying to heal across. I have since reinstalled the safety kick back and plastic cover. But I lack confidence in my judgement, to use the saw...I have some 2 x 6s I need to take down to 2x4, but I have surfing the net, to make some smart push sticks/ guides. Time to "get back on the horse"

[@SirTools]

Getting hurt just once can really put a scar on it. Good luck with getting on that horse. Sorry to see this post, but working safe is just the best way to enjoy it.

[@garyolsen3409]

I've been using a table saw over 50 yrs also. I was 19 and I worked in a cabinet shop, 8 hrs a day on the table saw. The guy that ran the shop was an oldtimer like I am now. Even after all these years seeing the blade up high like that gives me the creeps. You never want to do that.

[@SirTools]

In general I was told to use what is comfortable to me, but old school carpenter's shop told me to keep it high for the best cut.

[@garyolsen3409]

@@SirTools Like John Wayne said, "well ya gotta do what your insides tells ya." Keep safe.

[@jordanc8499]

A lower blade reduces the depth your saw can cut into a stray finger, but it also tripled or quadrupled the amount of wood in contact with the cutting teeth of the blade. A high saw cuts a much straighter line (almost verticle) reducing the amount of wood being grabbed by the teeth at any point in time. It's a matter of preference and your own comfort level in how much you pay attention and how in control you are when cutting. Choose your own adventure.... but do it wisely.

[@SirTools]

Well put :)

[@billhill3526]

You are not a rookie. I can tell.

[@Steve25g]

correct, when I was young, a friend of mine, his parents had a carpintary, they had a table saw, running a huge disc, and they ran it high as well. Due to it's 15KW, it was turning so fast, it didn't even grip wood, and even better, it had a movable slide, where you could put on the wood, and just launch it through the sawblade, it didn't even stop or move. I still put the saw high up.

[@SirTools]

@@Steve25g Sounds like a big one :)

[@Steve25g]

@@SirTools yes it was. in the vicinity, you have a company producing carpintery industrial class.. The machine needed softstart at 3x400volts

[@harveyd_5-11under]

I was taught 50% higher than the wood. I vary that depending on thickness and other factors. The biggest thing is awareness of where my fingers are and where the blade is, as well as where the material is. No loose clothes, don't work too fast, make sure someone is nearby, and absolutely no cutting if tired.

[@SirTools]

Another twist on an old topic here. Cool stuff

[@commoncents456]

and dont spill your beer 😛😛

[@brucemiller1696]

Sharp blades are safer than dull ones.

[@mjolnirswrath23]

listening to the Wood cut is the Key to a Clean cut. And Feeling the resistance as well as Observation of Density of the Wood, denser the wood reduction of speed. " A variable speed Electrical switch in line of power cord will do wonders for cutting on a table saw.

[@TheMrdhyde]

I started cabinet making around 1992. About 30 years and my favorite job was always cutout on table saw. Those days are gone with CNC but table saw still is needed. I use saw same way with blade about 1/2" to 3/4" above piece. Never been cut, had a few kick backs (never hurt) but learned what not to do.

[@SirTools]

The CNC stuff is pretty darn cool

[@JimBloggins1]

Lots of shops without CNCs out there still. Being a Sawyer is a fun role when the dust collection is working properly! 😆

[@shemondoublejack948]

I don't offer this as criticism, but rather to inform. You make a good video with valuable information for all woodworkers. We "tune" in to learn and the music in the background only interferes with the communication. Sorry to be negative.

[@SirTools]

it happens

[@andrewbieger5004]

Great stuff you have covered here. I would like to add that the use of your push blocks (the type with a heel hook) GREATLY reduces potential issues due to greater control of the work piece and likely reducing the benefit of having more blade exposed. The second item (using your test piece of 1x4 pine) is that it keeps the piece DOWN tight to the saw top, which reduces the possibility of the rear of the board lifting and being introduced to your face at high velocity! Not really obvious, but that test piece has a slight cup to it and was rocking on the saw top. When cutting shorter boards like that, I am always more concerned of kickbacks from the rear lifting, as opposed to kickbacks from blade binding, etc. Maybe paranoid, but I never rip anything shorter than about 30". My saw is a 40 year old Delta, with no guard or riving knife, but I have a whole fleet of push blocks. Those can easily be rebuilt. My fingers, not so much. Although useful in some situations, I usually don't like the old school 'chicken foot' push stick. Those can contribute to the board lifting, IMHO.

[@SirTools]

Delta made some good saws back in the day

[@kennethlambert9030]

Yeah I usually work alone and in different places so its hard to properly setup a ideal work area. The lifting at the back is always sketchy or if a peace is laying there lol and sometimes holding a peace down with a as it spins I'll carefully shut the machine off and finish taking the peaces out when its stopped so not to wedge it while on and you're shifting positions

[@JoesStyle]

I started using table saws before blade guards and kickback prevention. I was shown that you can get kickback if your fence is not repeatably accurate, meaning that if the rear of the blades is closer to the fence than you get a pinching effect across the blade when pushing it through and more surface contact, so I was taught to measure both the front and rear of the blade and make them even or actually slightly further from the fence at the rear to prevent kickback.

[@SirTools]

Good point and I think it is the main cause.

[@carcasscruncher9354]

The only time I ever had kick back was while cutting a piece of oak that was about 8x6 inches. I was cutting a groove to fit a tongue so the blade was only about 1/4 inch into a 1/2 inch board. I wouldnt have any fingers if it wasnt for the wood on top. I tried to keep it from kicking and ended up with both hands on it. Just a split second reaction before I let it completely go. When I let it go it took a second before it kicked back. The board came back really fast hitting my right hip and hand then flew about 30 ft or so into the air. Good old memories of high school wood shop. Lol it could've been really bad but I ended up with a monkey bubble on my right index finger and a bruise on my hip. That's one of those scenarios that makes one never forget it. I still use table saws all the time, just more carefully now. One thing you should add is keeping the bigger portion of the wood being cut to the fence. That's a pretty big tip on not getting kick back.

[@SirTools]

YES... I was looking at that ratio for using the fence. I call it over square to the blade, but that is another basic and yet no one seems to mention it. GOOD thoughts.

[@garypautard1069]

I live in the UK. and recently found a well known router manufacturer market a spray for wood cutting tools . This spray will stop resins and glues from plywood and OSB board sticking to your blades and works as a lubricant on saws. I tried it and got a much a more efficient and smoother cut on my saw table. Very impressed.

[@SirTools]

The clean blade sure does change the game :)

[@befmx31]

"saws not plugged in so quit typing"......Too funny.

[@SirTools]

Glad somebody got that line :)

[@adrianscarlett]

Don't worry, the guns not loaded...

[@SirTools]

@@adrianscarlett good thing

[@InsideOfMyOwnMind]

@@adrianscarlett we only have blank rounds on set. Oh, too soon?

[@ADITADDICTS]

@@SirTools That was gold! 🤣

[@patlaw53]

I've had a SawStop for four years, and even though I'm old, I'm still a beginner. Just recently I read the recommendation to set the blade height such that the gullet clears the board being cut. The explanation was that doing so allows the blade to clear the sawdust better. Well, except for the initial cut approximately the width of the upper portion of the blade, there's no sawdust doesn't get trapped in the gullet until the blade is rotating from 12 o'clock and into the wood. Once the gullet clears the bottom of the board, the sawdust will hopefully be sucked into the dust collection. Until the blade rotates back to the 12 o'clock position, I don't see where there is any sawdust in the gullet. I'm willing to stand corrected. Second, as far as the angle of cut is concerned with a higher blade creating a steeper angle of cut, are the angles of the teeth today the same as they were 50 years ago? It seems that by the teeth leaning forward, they can achieve a greater angle of cut with a lower blade height. I have no clue what I'm talking about on this one. As far as push sticks are concerned, the only "kickback" I've had so far was when I carelessly knocked my push stick/block over into the blade. Luckily it hit me in the arm and not in the face or chest. It could have been bad. Live and learn. Now I never leave anything where it can be knocked over into the blade.

[@SirTools]

Lucky and glad to hear it.

[@Jevandtieriel]

The lower blade will cut at a different angle, particularly the rear of the blade. A high blade the teeth are nearly 90 degrees to the table, increasing the risk of the board being cut lifting. A lower blade will also shorten the length of the blade exposed also lessening the risk of kickback. After having said this I tend to use the blade where it was set on the last use. If I notice, particularly thin wood or ply, that it’s jumping or tending to lift, I will lower the blade.

[@wardmontgomery9259]

Since the 70’s as a professional carpenter I have most always set the blade 1/8 - 1/4” higher than the materials that I am cutting with my table saw. ALSO I wont turn the saw on without wearing safety glasses ALWAYS !

[@markcomptube]

@@wardmontgomery9259 I agree, Safety glasses cannot be emphasised enough, apart from the sawdust, a splinter with force behind it can do a lot of damage!

[@Perly53]

@@markcomptube An excellent home builder in Kansas City, MO lost use of an eye as a young apprentice from a nail still in a board he was cutting. Safety glasses, for sure. Thank you.

[@jefflavenau6805]

With the plastic dust collecting blade shrouds that most new saws do come with these days, it makes cutting with the blade higher even safer on top of redirecting those forces down to the table. Great video!

[@MrChrissy1r]

I am a master carpenter and joiner O N C & H N C , time served, 56 years in the trades.Had my own mill and joinery shop, and still have all of my fingers "undamaged" . I also had a engineering shop, but that's another story. As an apprentice we were taught to have the blade about 1 1/2 inches above any timber , this avoids kickback quite a lot, but with a riving knife and top guard in place it also stops the lifting effect. Always worked for me, but that said . most time the Rip saws 18 inch and 26 inch were as high as they would go and hardly ever lowered. And of course with a chip and dust extractor on the go very little dust is kicked up. Key point a sharp blade is vital, dull blades are more dangerous in any tool.

[@SirTools]

This is basically how I was taught in the "good old days" thank you for this post.

[@markgarland9000]

Love that 'old' saw. I've had my 10'' Craftsman since the mid seventies.

[@volkomen]

The two best things I have ever done for my saw setups are: Use a high fence, set one inch or more than the max blade height as a limit for my hand. The second thing is to have a proper long out feed table, which lets me push a piece out smoothly. I resent being on the short end of a lever, thus tricking me to force the wood down onto the table near the end of its cut. (The most dangerous part of the sawing I have seen is not having a dedicated out feed table. Those twig-trees and helpers cause more havoc holding a piece out there. YOU need to be in control of the cut!!!!) The Low Blade Safety ASSUMPTION maximizes the approach angle, and maximizes the tooth force tangential of the blades radius. This vectors forces which razes the work piece. In other words you can feel the board rise up when sett up like this, especially with slightly dull blade. Also, when set low, tooth time in contact with the wood is at maximum, creating heat, and if the material is dense like oak forget-about-it! 5000 RPM is 83 rotations per second. Multiply that by the number of teeth on the blade to find how many teeth per second. Saws with 1.5 to 3 HP always bog at the operators feeding rates.

[@leehaelters6182]

Well reasoned! I hope newr users take heed

[@spurlindarby4587]

Having out feed table is the way to go but it takes up alot of room trying to fight your wood is dangerous I think

[@lyndonp6296]

@@spurlindarby4587 Try a roller stand ....

[@commoncents456]

Thank you Outfeed table is often overlooked

[@stephenrose8188]

Roller stand is good and at least you can move it to suit your space and timber length. Also like a lot of guys I often work alone in a room full of kit that can kill you so I wear a pair of 'Oregon' chainsaw gloves, designed to stop a chain saw and keep your fingers attached to your hands. Brilliant product and I use them on anything like saws, planers hand held or bench type it doesn't matter. Use on the band saw too. My gloves cost about £29 here in the UK, worth double. Riving knife and top guards if set up right are good too, never had cause not to use them.

[@johnwhitley2898]

I have a tremendous amount of respect for table saws... and I use one. I was shown and taught by my Dad not to get the gullet above the workpiece or " You're just asking for trouble, Son". I miss my Dad, but I still heed his teaching and it has served me well, knock on wood. We, and later me, built a lot of "stuff" together. Low teeth and push blocks work. OMG...".... unplugged..". Lmao!! Really"deflated" the egos of the Pseudo Safety Warriors...lolol 😂! Thanks for the demo/info! 👍!

[@SirTools]

🤣

[@okgentfarmer]

Thanks for sharing your experience, expertise and honest advice. I am a retired guy just getting into woodworking and binge-watching KZbin videos on table saw safety. One of my first purchases after getting a Dewalt DWS7491RS was a GRR-RPPER 3D Push Block and a Bench Dog Push-Bloc Push Pad. Now I feel like I can begin to make cuts much more safely and build a couple sleds more safely to get started. Tried to work with the single plastic push stick that came with it and quickly realized that was going to be a non-starter for me.

[@SirTools]

This episode was more about what we were told in the "old school" days. The gripper is a good choice.

[@ericperkins3078]

Having had a close encounter with a blade that left a memorable kerf in my right first metacarpal, I no longer get closer than a sturdy push pad/stick.

[@leehaelters6182]

Good testimony, friend. Nothing beats the voice of experience. Someone will be saved from grief, because they reax this.

[@jbratt]

Understanding the physics that is going on when using a table saw is a significant part of being safe. Most of the guys that I know that have gotten hurt just didn’t understand what they were doing. The other ones were doing something repetitive and got complacent.

[@jonlanier_]

Exactly!

[@number1pappy]

You mentioned you've been using a table saw for 50 years and I noticed you still have all your fingers! So I'm thinking you know what your talking about. Lol! But seriously, I've only been into wood work for a few years and the only time I've had a board get squirrely on me is when the blade was in a lower position. So this makes total sense. Thanks 😊

[@SirTools]

It is almost old school VS new. I think they both have the GOOD and BAD with each.

[@davidcurtis5398]

I started using a table saw with my father when I was 8 years old. I have never used a riving knife nor have I used a blade guard. I still have all my fingers with no hand scars. I am now 75+ and still working the table saw. I am now using the wheeled hold downs when ripping boards. Have used feather boards for years.I'm on my 4th table saw and now I have a cabinet saw. The only person that I have ever known that has lost any part of his/her body was a friend that lost his left thumb, with a circular saw...

[@SirTools]

Thanks for posting and sorry to hear about the circular saw. Wonder what the stats are for those. mm...might have to do some digging on them.

[@whitesturgeon]

knock on wood...

[@James_Hande]

Back in the 70's I was taught for both table saws and circular saws to set the cutting depth to half the gullet depth. I've been running with that ever since. Nice cuts and safe, never been hurt. Oh yeah, push blocks are a necessity for table saw safety!

[@ChristIsLord229]

Exactly this.

[@soujrnr]

Forgive me, I'm new to this. What is the gullet depth?

[@kazoosc]

@@soujrnr suncatcherstudio.com/uploads/woodworking/table-saws/images-large/table-saw-blade-teeth-identification.jpg res.cloudinary.com/yaffa-publishing/image/fetch/q_auto:best,c_fit,w_630,f_auto/http%3A%2F%2Fyaffa-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fyaffadsp%2Fimages%2FdmImage%2FSourceImage%2Fsawblade-anatomy.jpg

[@bloomdds]

@@soujrnr I can't insert a pic here, so just google it. It is the deep curve right behind the teeth. My understanding is it is where the sawdust goes immediately after a tooth cuts through the wood fibers. Having the gullet exposed gives more escape route for sawdust than a blade sitting low that is buried in the wood.

[@soujrnr]

@@bloomdds - Thank you!!

[@janderson8401]

My dad would lower the blade all the way down, unplug the saw, and remove the belt when he was done using his table saw. I do not remember him teaching me how to use it or explicitly giving me permission to use it. I guess he figured if I had passed wood shop in middle school and was strong enough to drag the saw out of the furnace room into the basement, and get the v-belt back on, I must be okay to run it.

[@leehaelters6182]

Three cheers for your careful Dad!

[@Sparkeycarp]

30 years as a carpenter. I am right there with you. Teach safety to the newbies. Do what works best for you. I swear by fish sticks and jigs.

[@leehaelters6182]

I take my fish sticks with beans and ketchup, thank you.

[@uncleronny6748]

I was taught in a cabinet shop that you use a high blade with a high ATB blade to prevent chip out on melamine. The theory is that it chops downward as the blade cuts through the topside.

[@SirTools]

Exactly and other reasons too for this angle.

[@gatekeeper65]

Perspective. I think the main reason that the table saw is the number one piece of equipment that people get injured on, is because it's by far the one piece of equipment that most all woodworkers have. Great video.

[@SirTools]

I like that, it could be just that simple.

[@Patrick-kc5ur]

While that is certainly true, safety training other than on You Tube is basically "accidental"! Splitters and riving knives will prevent 98% of kickbacks and are not very well understood, so they remain in the drawer with the blade guard attached, at least mine did until I realized what function they perform. Prior to reinstalling my splitters, I did have a few kickbacks and they were painful. After putting them back on I've had none! Those slender push sticks that provide no down pressure and often used in pairs are a safety hazard and prone to sliding along the workpiece.

[@JohnSmith-xs4sx]

2 things I would add to this that I've found make a huge difference, a good jointed board edge against the fence and a floating blade guard . Not always possible but jointer, or jointer plane, first and one face then the saw , most lumber as bought is not really ready or safe for the table saw.I did not have a jointer or planer for a long time but what a difference they make

[@annarouly2144]

Another thing that is very important is to have respect for the tool. A lot of people have accidents because they get careless. And I never, ever rush at the table saw. If I do not have enough time to take my time, then I quite for the day and pick back up tomorrow. I have been woodworking for 30 years and I do enough woodworking to have gone through 3 table saws. I do more than week end projects, and I still have all my digits and plan on keeping it that way. And PPE is an absolute must. I cannot even imagine cutting anything without eye protection. You only get one set of fingers and 1 pair of eyes. It is up to you to keep them in tact.

[@SirTools]

Pre plan the cut is a must

[@annarouly2144]

@@SirTools absolutely. You know that saying, measure twice cut once. Well sometimes I measure 3 and 4 times. Also, layout on the plywood sheet is important to prevent waste. I know how to sew and I realized one day, that cutting into plywood is like cutting pattern pieces out of fabric. You lay pattern pieces out to get the most out of your fabric, and you should do the same when you are cutting into plywood. I cannot stand waste. And everyone at the house knows not to 'clean up' my shop for me. They will throw away pieces that they think are scraps. They do not understand that those 'scrap' pieces could still get some life squeezed out of them. Small trim; jig setups, etc.

[@SirTools]

@@annarouly2144 I've warned folks to leave my scrap alone LOLOL

[@terrymunsinger519]

I taught high school woodworking for 34 years and am now doing custom cabinetmaking. The table saw is not a tool you should use unless you understand safety for the large variety operations it can be used for. Safety procedures are critical. I am proud to say neither me or my students have had a serious injury using a table saw.

[@SirTools]

No accidents says it all :)

[@wiseoldfool]

Many people are saying the blade should be high enough that the bottom of the gullet is just clear of the work to efficiently remove the sawdust and increase the cooling of the blade. I always use Push sticks and/or push blocks. You gave the most important piece of advice quite early into the video. "Keep your hands away from the blade"!

[@SirTools]

yeah, that would be NUMBER one in my books, but I was taught to run the blade high by Pro's and this is against the "safe" gang

[@kd0407]

I can't say I've been at it for a plethora of years, I began poking around with this hobby 5 our 6 years ago, but I certainly make my cuts this way. I've tried both methods. The results are indeed better, and I'm confident there is less binding and kickback when the blade has more space to operate freely (i.e. it has some area to spin freely both above and below the work piece).

[@lutzshawn]

How powerful is your table saw? The most important thing raising the blade accomplishes is reducing the hp required to make the cut.(less teeth engaged) you may find the same benefits you get from a higher blade by using a slower feed, higher hp saw or even an fresher sharper blade?

[@kd0407]

@@lutzshawn You are correct, but my approach serves all the same. I rarely have the most high powered equipment; I use what I have and what is available. Regardless of what saw I use it is always a goal to reduce as much resistance and wear as possible from the machine while I use it. This approach has always served me to be both "safer" and yield better results. To your point, I certainly could benefit from a newer, sharper blade, but who among us could not?

[@davidlane2004]

Coffee and tools, My grandfather was a mastercarpenter, that's what he taught me when using the table saw, now he dud tell me to try and keep the curfing knife for the rise of material from happening so you could and can use the blade as a straight edge, because the fence can bind the work piece.... That's my take of input...

[@SirTools]

Old school rules

[@dougthomson5544]

I’m 73 and have been working with wood for over 50 years and have never had an accident with a table saw until about 3 months ago. Fortunately I had very little blade above the stock and that saved all 4 fingers on my right hand. Absolutely stupid mistake (aren’t they all), but I came out with no bone or tendon damage, just 60 to 70 stitches by a great Doc; I’m typing with those fingers now, so I am lucky as hell. Mine is a vintage (as old as I, I’m sure) Delta Uni-Saw … great saw, but a riving knife was never a thought when it was built. Still, I’ve never experienced kickback with the saw. Maybe that’s just damned luck, too. The very best safety advice is to bung out the Delta and move in a Saw Stop. My wife now thinks that might be a reasonable investment😅.

[@SirTools]

Saw stop is much cheaper, but glad that you didn't loose those fingers.

[@dougthomson5544]

@@SirTools Chuckle, indeed it is. I rebuilt the trunion once in all the years I’ve owned the saw and even at its advanced years it is rock solid. That said, I’ve also used SawStop cabinet saws and have had no complaints and as I’m down to a dog’s life in the shop, longevity isn’t a big issue.

[@ipick4fun27]

Interesting... The way I set mine is to ensure the carbide tip in the highest point sticking above the board. It is because the lumber I worked with not always flat and sometimes bowl and twisted by 1/8 or more. It has to cut thru all of that. Most of the time, I just leave it 1/2"-ish above the board. However, I do use long pushing stick or block where my hand is at least 6" to 8" away from the blade.

[@frederickburns1739]

Excellent advice for all. I personally set the blade depth at about 1/8" and I can testify that if I didn't practice that my left thumb would be a little shorter. With that said my incident would not have happened if I had not been distracted by my son-in-law. So my advice is first eliminate all distraction and second concentrate on the project and HAND!!!!

[@Ritalie]

WOW. Yes so I wouldn't have any fingers left if I had the blade set 2" high. But I had a kickback, and I had the blade set just barely above the wood, and I got cut at the exact depth that the blade was protruding above the wood. My hand followed the wood backwards into the blade, and rode across the blade on the top of the wood. I cut half way into 4 fingers. They stitched me back up. I'm ok, but I haven't been able to use the saw in 4 months since it happened. I'll be installing a riving knife now.

[@jonjohnson3027]

Safety is not a device, it's a state of mind based in full awareness of the risks involved in the activity. High blade reduces kickback, low blade reduces exposure to the blade. I say it's a tossup for safety. As for quality of cut, high blade could give a smoother face of the cut, but low blade reduces tearout on the face of the board. So quality is a tossup there, too. Using a sharp blade with good set, and keeping the board tight to the fence are probably the most important factors in safety and cut quality in terms of saw setup.

[@SirTools]

It is just that.

[@kevincozzo260]

got my thumb years ago, ripping a small piece of lumber...mushroomed the end of it...learned my lesson, very lucky as it healed back up eventually

[@SirTools]

The list of accidents should wake others up, but seems like table saws just eat things and people.

[@Techno_Nomadic]

This is late to the party, but what I was taught as a machinist was to select my blades such that I would have three teeth in the work. I could use more, but there might be more heat from friction and drag as the teeth spring in (kerf narrowing) but if I used less I would be likely to break teeth in the work. The stress just isn't divided among enough cutters. That's for metalwork, but the same goes for wood. I set my table saw so I keep three teeth in the cut. If I'm ripping thick boards, fewer teeth on the blade so I don't have to stand it out so tall, and thin sheet, more teeth.

[@SirTools]

I had 7 years in a machine shop and that's another story for another day. Thanks for sharing.

[@AWIRELINK]

A HIGHLY informative and educational video that everyone should watch. Thank you for this great video Sir, and God Bless.

[@sassafrasvalley1939]

The worst kick back I ever got was from ripping with the cutoff narrower than the outboard opening of my face plate. I was needing some thin veneer faces for covering plywood edges. It splintered at a small knot and dove into the opening. I heard it before I saw it… but still couldn’t hit the stop before it came back at me. I ducked just in time to have it whiz by my ear. That startled me and I let loose of the push block. It hit the blade snd was thrown back also. The wider portion of the board rose up on the saw blade and skidded much slower back toward me as well. That split second taught me a couple of lessons… 1. Use a zero clearance insert when cutting narrow edges from parts… or just joint them some other way instead. In this case I was needing to use the narrow edge. 2. I’m not faster, stronger, tougher or smarter than a tablesaw. So, spend as much time and effort as it takes to do a safe setup! As far as the secret goes… I’m an old fart too. I use a riving knife on every cut that I can. And blade height… I split the difference. The norm for me is for a full tooth to protrude above the wood. It is lower than the thickness of my push block yet high enough to have that downward cut that gives the cleanest cut. I’d like to add one more thing… all of the new saws come with plastic push sticks. That should be outlawed. The only time I’ve been cut on my saw was when the brittle plastic push stick hit the blade. It shattered and a shard imbedded in my cheek. When I wrote to the manufacturer they sent me another one with a full page set of instruction on how to use it safely. Both of which went directly in the trash!

[@SirTools]

You've had some bad times. Thanks so much for sharing this info. The video is about height of blade , old reasons VS the new safety ideas. The Riving Knife is another video perhaps ?

[@sassafrasvalley1939]

@@SirTools you mentioned it and even said you were going to build one… I thought so any way??

[@SirTools]

Looking at a 3d printer app for it..."maybe" LOLOLm:)

[@davidnadeau7308]

Personal Note. First time viewer noticed your cap. My Father was a test flight engineer for the C-130 A through J model. He was with the 4 Horsemen also. Great stories about the power to weight for the A model allowing it to do the aerial tricks the Thunderbirds would do. Made me feel good seeing your cap.

[@SirTools]

Very cool!

[@theMrFouldsy]

If the high blade helps prevent kickback at the cost of increased risk of cutting, then the obvious solution is to keep the blade low but use a riving knife to eliminate the kickback. Alternatively, use a good blade guard and don't worry about the height so much.

[@Scrapps97]

Still a chance for the wood to crawl up the blade, the saw to bite, and the wood getting chucked. By the blade being higher the forces are pulling down and its less likely to climb. An exposed blade is no different than a bandsaw... and a bandsaw doesn't kick because it is pulling the wood down

[@chrisgriffith1573]

There is one problem with your assertion of keeping the blade high because "it keeps the board nice and straight" and that is that the kerf of the blade's teeth are slightly wider than the spinning disk they are mounted to, and the friction you feel keeping it in line is from the back teeth making contact with the board from behind. Yes, there is more distance with which the blade spans to allow less movement, but a Master carpenter will push his fence ever so slightly away from the blade at the far end to keep a board riding away from the fresh cut line, to avoid burn marks on his new line... this takes advantage of the leeway in the kerf of the blade and always gives you a 100% burn free line on the piece against the fence. The biggest thing about kickback is something being out of alignment, or a warped/twisted board. By using a "chicken foot" push stick in conjunction with a normal one, you can add a lot of distance and hold a board very close to the blade, (like a feather board) and give yourself a lot more control than just a regular push block or stick.

[@leehaelters6182]

@ Chris Griffith, can you describe a ''chicken foot'' stick, compared to a ''normal one'', please? What I call a ''bird's mouth'' has just a notch cut into one end. Is that it?

[@chrisgriffith1573]

@@leehaelters6182 yes

[@HandymanMark]

I've been a carpenter for the last 40 years. In my career I know of four men who have lost a digit. One with a circular saw. The other three was a table saw. My experience tells me table saw by far most dangerous tool

[@jerryfrederick6610]

The only time I ever yelled at and corrected my dad was because he reached over the table saw while it was running. Made me a nervous wreck. He was a careful man but, for a moment became in a hurry and was rushing. I straightened him out, really made me look at our relationship different from then on. I jumped ahead of him in the role of protector. Just a crazy moment. I think about it every time I run a table saw. Always will.

[@davidhellwege9773]

One of the things that I have always added to a table saw to improve safety is an outfeed table. It may not be necessary on small pieces, but, ripping a long heavy board, or panel, without one leaves you pressing hard on the tail to prevent lift at the end of the cut. Pressing almost straight down so hard while your hand is near the blade, even with a push stick, or other device, is a recipe for disaster. Another thing that you didn't mention, never stand directly in line behind the cut. A brain is the best safety device that you can have on a table saw

[@SirTools]

NEVER be a target LOLOL...this was about what old school told us to do with table saws. Funny they never mentioned do NOT stand in front of the wood cut line. Guess they thought that was common sense :)

[@sincerelyyours7538]

I'm with you, I've always made my cuts with the blade about 1/2" above the wood or high enough to clear the cutouts in the teeth. I always thought that was to aid chip extraction, which prevents binding, which prevents kickback. How much of that is true I don't really know, but it has worked well for me over the past 30 years or so. Hasn't hurt the one carbide all-purpose blade I've been using over most of that time either. Still makes superfine cuts that don't need sanding. Cheaper blades tended to burn the wood so I stopped using them.

[@brucemiller1696]

Keeping the blade up helps hold wood down. Lower the blade, the wood wants to ride over the blade. Blade 1/2" high can cut off fingers like it happened to me. I passed out during a cut, lost my pinky with other damage. Nothing can prevent that except sawstop which now i have.

[@smkgldb9112]

I so agree with you on this,I was going to say about the same thing until I found your commentyou said it all

[@sawman231]

Full tooth and gully above stock. No more to much less can cause blade to lift stock and potentially sling it on you.

[@jewishmafia9801]

@@sawman231 exactly this. Most manufacturers of blades recommend this height for an optimal cut, chip and dust extraction, and not too high for safety reasons

[@leehaelters6182]

@@brucemiller1696, thanks for the testimony, pal, it will help keep another person safe, I know this. I really hope that you have, or will, recover full function! L

[@davidcurtis5398]

I've been using the table saw for the past 65 years and still use the free 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 with a handle to use as the push contraption for cutting. I usually let the blade cut into the push contraption a bit especially when I am cutting real narrow pieces like I will be doing i the near future. I usually use a longer one when I am cutting thinner wood like 1/4 inch plywood. This helps keep the plywood flat. I have never seen a table saw with the blade mounted so far toward the back, why????? I've never had a saw (I'm on my 4th one) with the knife and or the plastic guard and I'm still with all of my fingers and no scars at all. I really liked the video.

[@SirTools]

Just felt like nobody talks about "old school" LOL

[@joebloe9901]

I use saws everyday for a living (34yrs) and I never have kickbacks because I EXPECT the saw to kickback. Fresh wet treated wood warps and grabs when you rip it. Whenever I’m cutting, that blade is going to stall before it kicks back on me. Hold your material firm like you hold your morning wood…practice stalling the blade with your material. Yes I keep the ripsaw blade high so that it cuts down and not back at my face. Great video, I’m always catching shit from coworkers that can’t even swing a hammer trying to tell me how to use a saw. Yes, I have all my fingers.

[@SirTools]

When I did dock and deck work, we'd order the supplies in advance and let the GREEN stuff dry out for a week before cutting. I've never had kickback but you have a good point. Expect it and deal with it before it happens.

[@joebloe9901]

@@SirTools we try to let it dry out but if you have a nice stack, the stuff in the middle of the stack never dries. There is a ma n pa lumber company here that sells kiln dried treated and we try to use their lumber if possible. Also these thin kerf blades that companies are making totally suck at ripping treated lumber… the blade actually warps and walks as it’s cutting and they are far more dangerous than a thick kerf blade. The new guys on the crew do not understand this because most have never used a thick kerf blade. Thanks again for this video. Have a great rest of your weekend.

[@SirTools]

@@joebloe9901 HEY...U 2

[@raymondpender1709]

Love what your doing. Many years ago when I was just starting, I was cutting live edge lumber to square it. The piece to the left of the blade, the live edge side, tampered down, broke loose at the blade and kicked back. A piece about 4 feet long tore into my t shirt just knicking me. If I had been a few inches to the right it would have gone into my belly. That is the only time I have seen left side kick back.

[@SirTools]

Off cut is rare, but Jeff King over at The Den of Tools said it happened to him. Thanks for the comment posted. Just shows anything can go wrong.

[@christophergallagher531]

youch. radial arm saws make arrows fly. Blades are better now. Early carbide tips would fly off now and then. That was like getting hit with a bullet. I have been lucky. Chris

[@SirTools]

Jeff King over at Den of Tools said that happened to him. Rare but it can happen.

[@SirTools]

@@christophergallagher531 OH, those days...I got hit in the forehead with a carbide chunk off the blade. Thanks for the memories :)

[@easycrider7453]

I like the blade a little higher also, seems safer and does seem to guide the wood thru the cut. Also use push sticks and feather boards when needed and something you didn't mention was to use a "SHARP"saw blade. A dull blade will get you into trouble.

[@SirTools]

OH, yeah...the blade, but that's another story :)

[@SirTools]

@Bamboo Training Two things on a dull blade, it will "burn" going through wood and also you'll have to "push" harder on good wood. A lot of times it just needs cleaning :)

[@jamesrobertson9597]

Totally agree with the high blade. And you said another word several times.... CONTROL. Make sure you are always in control of the work, either with your hands or with push stick(s), and keep it smoothly moving as much as you can. Don't leave work sitting between the fence and the spinning blade and get distracted and leave it uncontrolled for a millisecond. Work sitting between the fence and a spinning blade uncontrolled is about to become a missile, aimed straight at YOU. If you need to stop for some reason (heart attack, ninja attack, sudden onset of overwhelming existential angst), keep the work under control and reach down and switch off the saw, and keep the work under control until the blade spins down. Great video. This video will save some fingers.

[@SirTools]

control and plan each cut

[@JimBloggins1]

In our cabinet shop where we employ a 7hp sliding table saw and two 3hp table saws, one with a blade we change per task and one always equipped with a 1" Dato set, we follow the manufacturer's recommendations for blade height. Most of the shops I have been employed at have made a rule that if the gap between blade and fence is smaller than the width of your fist, a push block should be used however I have a close friend who is known to regularly lick his fingers to gain traction while using just the tips to feed pieces less than 1.5". You would not catch me doing that but only because I don't feel the need to, a push block isn't a handicap, just a tool. That said, far too many people who work with wood(including today's cabinetmaking and joinery students) are taught that the table saw is a big and scary monster and should always be your last resort. I was trained to start with your biggest tool/machine and go from there and the table saw in my opinion is no more dangerous than the palm sander with a proper understanding of what it's capable of and what will cause you issues. When it comes to table saw safety there are 3 simple factors; 1) saw maintenance(of very little concequence ultimately because if your saw is falling apart its clear what the issue is) 2) blade sharpness 3) education on how the blade works, how wood behaves and how the saw works The only side of the blade that should matter is the one where the fence is, your offcuts on the other side will not harm you unless you planned out a very large cut very poorly. The minimum height of any blade for a through cut is definitely with the bottom of the gullet on plane with the material surface. Raising the blade up high will absolutely cut a finer cut, it's not a theory from back in the day, it's proven physical science. The attack angle of the teeth facing down will put more pressure on the material to shear, however this is typically a practice to simply add life to a blade, forcing it to cut finer longer than its intended use before being sharpened. Using your blade so low that the teeth are barely above the material surface is far more dangerous than with the gullet on plane or higher, you have much less of the blade body to stabilize your material and with the blade low, wearing it's teeth quicker, you will end up with kick back at some point. You don't need to practice blade longevity skills but you certainly don't need to keep your blade bottomed out, do some research to find what the manufacturer of that blade or one with a similar tooth and rake angle suggest. They built it, they spent the money and time to discover the best method of use so that you don't need to. The angles on the teeth and rake of any blade are such that they are designed for specific uses, learn why and what for and you will always have better and safer cuts. As a sidenote, combo blades that purport to do both ripping and crosscutting actually typically work well for both applications. We employ several combination or general purpose blades on one of our smaller saws that does a ton of varied work, we otherwise have blades worth several hundred dollars for various applications like laminate cutting, plywood, melamine, mdf and some expensive ripping blades. Proper education is what will keep you safe and efficient on a table saw, bottomline. Understand what makes the cut fail when it does, the saw certainly won't fail, the blade will continue to turn!

[@garyblake3130]

In the UK and most of Europe you should NEVER operate a circular saw bench without a riving knife fitted to within 8mm of the blade and a guard must always be fitted and placed as near as practical to the work. Likewise when ripping solid timber the fence should never go past the gullet of the blade at bench level. I agree that you do get a better cut with the blade up high, really not too much of a problem if it is sufficiently guarded, generally though the advice is to set the blade low. We also say your hand should be a minimum of 300mm away from the blade so most of the sticks or grippers that are in use in the US would be illegal here in the UK. People, statistically this is the most dangerous piece of equipment in a wood shop keep the guard and riving knife fitted at all times and use a push stick of at least 350mm long and only use it for ripping and occasional crosscuts, there is far better equipment to cut grooves, rebates etc available. I do appreciate that different countries have different rules and what I have said will upset some but I say it with safety in mind.

[@SirTools]

Love this input from UK. Super thanks for this comment. I have some fellows in Germany right now sending me emails too. Telling me why did you release this darkest of secrets :)

[@chrisrowley4732]

Illegal! really? Point me to that law please.

[@joepmeloen3373]

I believe here its not allowed to sell saws without a riving knife and professional shops/ users have to use it. Workplace safety etc.. The us style fences are i think pretty dangerous.

[@chrisrowley4732]

@@joepmeloen3373 yep, but those are not laws they are HSE regulations and dont include your personal equipment in your own home, unless your using it in relation to a business

[@johnnylightning1491]

I think one of the big reasons for kickback is rip fences that are not parallel to the blade, especially if the are closer at the rear of the blade. I have a couple of older Craftsman saws and frankly the rip fences are not very accurate. I think an accurate fence is probably the most useful thing you can do to prevent kickback to say nothing of putting out better work.

[@rcajun8902]

Thank you , the riving knife doesn't prevent kickback, rip fences that are not parallel to the blade is the problem with kickback.

[@yankee2yankee216]

I recall when I was a kid my Dad taking me to the local lumber yard, which had a milling shop. ALL (or it seemed like all) of the men who worked there had missing fingers or parts of fingers! That taught me a lesson that I have never forgotten... keep my fingers/hands away from the blade! I always use push blocks, and I usually keep the blade low. I try to hook my little finger over the fence, so my hand is less likely to slip left, into the blade. I ALWAYS, DELIBERATELY, FOCUS! If cutting slender pieces, I use push sticks, but am always aware that they are less stable than my blocks. I ALWAYS stand outside the kick-back zone, when possible, just in case! SO FAR, SO GOOD! In 15 years of regular table saw use, I've never gotten so much as a nick.

[@SirTools]

A good routine for keeping fingers off the blade.

[@danrolczynski997]

I have been wood working for the past 50 years and feel that I have some notable accomplishments with it. My tablesaw is an old Atlas model, still in quite good shape, but it does not have a riving blade. I don’t know if they even thought of riving blades back in 1950 when my saw was made and my father bought it. my greatest safety concerns on the saw are: 1) mindset I convinced myself long ago when I let my mind wander a little and nicked my thumb that you have to realize that what this monster machine wants most of all is to cut off an appendage. fingers, hands, feet; it doesn’t care as long as there is lots of blood. You have to approach the tool as if it is out to get you and keep concentrated on what you are doing and what is safe, every second that the machine is running. 2) helpful tools My fence clamps to the saw tabletop and is about 1 ½ inches wide. If I cut something within a relatively short distance from the blade, I have formed a habit of draping my hand over the fence, providing prevention of movement of my hand towards the blade. I can never project my thumb on the blade side to a distance that can reach the blade. If I must cut closer, I use push sticks (carefully) or a sliding “U” shaped push fixture that fits relatively closely over my fence and has a replaceable protruding push stick on the saw side to grab and push the wood. On the top right side of the fixture I have a ¾ in. dowel inserted and protruding towards the right. I use this to grab and push the fixture with my hand. It provides all the control and direction I need without putting my hand in even minimal harms way. It will work with 2x4’s,and plywood equally well. I still have all my fingers. 3) I also use a plastic dust sucking blade guard when I can. Perhaps I can fit a riving blade sometime.

[@SirTools]

A lot of "rushing" seems to be the main event. The riving knife is another problem. Splitter is pretty good too, but only if your using a straight cut. My latest saw came without a riving knife and again just never had one anyway since those old days. Thanks for posting and taking the time to write this up.

[@giovannisipiano3020]

Thank you for this. I still have a love hate relationship with my table saw and router. As a beginner, I am constantly terrified and basically avoid doing any work! But videos like this help my anxiety a great deal! Thank you!…On to those shelves then!

[@Ritalie]

Install a riving knife, and check the alignment of your table saw fence. The rear of the fence should be slightly toed out (away from the blade) compared to the front by a maximum distance of 0.015" or 1/64th inch. It's safer to have the rear of the fence slightly toed out. If you have the rear of the fence too tight, and it's closer than the front of the fence, then you'll pinch the wood and burn the wood and risk death every time you make a cut. If you don't have a riving knife, don't use your saw at all. I mean it. Just throw it away. Or buy a $25 Micro Jig kerf splitter, either the thick turquoise color one, or the yellow one for thin kerf blades, and it goes into 2 holes in your throat plate around the blade, to create a simulated riving knife.

[@gammawave1739]

You can’t be scared grab it like a rabbit and say to yourself it’s going through that saw with confidence or don’t do it

[@bc2.by.design]

I was taught the MINIMUM height was the one that cleared the tooth gullet above the material. It gives a clean cut because it keeps the saw from dragging excess sawdust down into the cut zone, but also guarantees spitting dust upwards. Second, to avoid standing directly behind the area between the blade and fence. (Don't let anyone else stand in that line, either. Easy to do for narrower cuts, near impossible for wide ones. I've experienced a couple of incidents. One was the inadvertent kind of twist another responder mentioned. That resulted in a violent throw upwards of the ply panel I was cutting. Scared the bejesus out of me and I stopped for the day. Another was a classic pinch ripping hardwood, kerf closing up as tension was released from the cut, the kickback coming from the fence side. This on an older saw without a riving knife. That was an absolute rocket straight back. That missed because I wasn't in the danger zone. For those who haven't seen this, the speed is beyond belief. Personally, I think the safest solution is a higher blade, which reduces the most common problem (kickback) PLUS using a blade guard. And I have to confess that I don't use the latter very much, also relying on tools to keep my hands clear. I do use feather boards a lot when ripping, too. I've tried hold-down devices, but found them too much of a pain in the neck to use in a home (i.e., non-production) shop where you're changing set-ups all the time. Thanks for the video - it has me thinking about guards again.

[@gammawave1739]

Boom say like it is

[@GraemePayne1967Marine]

Memories of high school wood shop class in the mid-1960s. What you describe is what I was taught back then. That was one machine I avoided using as much as possible. I have also seen two table saw accidents - one being a professional demonstrator - where digits were removed. The un-safety of the table saw is a reason why I have never owned one. Since I restarted woodworking in the late 1970s, I have always used a radial arm saw. I regard it as inherently much safer because your hands don't have to be anywhere near the blade for most cuts. Of course it is still a power tool spinning sharp blades at high speed, so reasonable caution and respect are still necessary. But I'm still using that same radial arm saw, and I still have all of my "original equipment" body parts.

[@SirTools]

We love the old radial arm saw and sorry to hear you had to see digits removed. That leaves a scare for life. Thanks for the comment !

[@Ritalie]

In studying radial arm saws, I realized that their reputation in being dangerous for ripping boards is way exaggerated, and they should in no way be regarded as "unsafe to use for ripping boards." When you consider that a radial arm saw has anti-kickback pawls, and all the newer ones have a riving knife, plus when you're ripping, the guard completely blocks the blade so you can't "accidentally" stick your hand into it for no reason, like what happens in so many table saw accidents. I think cross cutting on a radial arm saw is extremely dangerous, not ripping. People saying a radial arm saw is "more dangerous for ripping" are confused about how the guard works on a radial arm saw. In cross cutting, you might have the blade exposed. But in ripping, the blade is rarely near your hand, on a RAS. The top of the blade is buried down into the wood table on a RAS, so it cannot have a "frisbee" kickback that causes most table saw injuries.

[@GraemePayne1967Marine]

@@Ritalie I agree with you that the "Danger Danger" reputation of radial arm saws (or RAS) is way overblown. I have heard lots of statements about danger, but I am not aware of any documented injury cases. (That does NOT mean there are none!) I have had one incident with the RAS while ripping a sheet of wall paneling - no physical injury to me, just damage to the material. After my heart rate was back down to normal, I realized it was my own stupid fault for not properly completing the setup. That was 15 years ago and I've had no incidents since. I have even used it to resaw small lumber parts, using a jig published in a very old issue of Shop Notes. (Those digital archives are a wonderful resource.) About the only RAS accessory I have not used is the shaper head, and only because I have not needed to. The reality is that ALL edged tools can inflict bodily harm if incorrectly used. If the edged tool is being spun at high speed by an electric motor the danger is greater because things happen faster and more violently. Think of Stumpy Nubs' accident while power carving a year or so ago. That happened in an eyeblink, and he's still recovering. One thing I'm working on is setup checklists for each power tool, for each possible operation. (Oops, my background in quality assurance is showing)...

[@greenman7yyy]

I had the exact same 2 senarios explained to me in Junior high woodshop class. In my home as a youth the instruction was to use the blade at the lowest possible setting to get a definite cut, not necessarily a clean cut; more blade past the wood is better for wood management and cleaner cuts.

[@SirTools]

Seems that is what they teach now. In the old days it was keep very different "old school" stuff.

[@lamontrichardson6096]

1974 Craftsman Cast Iron tablesaw, I'm with you on the high side better cut , less heat with hard woods, still have 10 fingers and 2 thumbs.............

[@SirTools]

You Da man :)

[@duncanmarks1590]

Hi, lumber yards use very large circular saws normally at full depth of cut but they are usually used with the "work piece" in a carriage on guide rails. This is similar to my preferred approach on a table saw in that I use a fence on both sides of the work piece with clamped blocks on the left hand fence to stop the work piece lifting. Also an adjustable guard that covers the blade position is attached to the right hand fence and push sticks are used to feed in the work piece through the "jig" formed by the two fences. Admittedly more time to set up but gives very accurate, repeatable and safe cuts (particularly on a long work piece). Note; still not idiot proof and will not stop stop kickback due to blunt saws and excessive feed rates.

[@SirTools]

We have a lumber yard not far from here and I inspected the saw setup. Good points !

[@scottym50]

Great video and great advice. After working for just over 14 years in a production shop with 8 to 12 hours a day 6 days a week a lot of the time, I solved the problem on my home shop. I bought a Vevor power feeder. It works great. And I always kept my blades high, just above the gullets. I still have 10 fingers with no empty slots.

[@leehaelters6182]

Yeah!! Let's hear it for power feeders!!! What a revelation when we started using one on the shaper. And I only know of one shop of fellas in my own particular orbit that bothered to move it to the saw now and then, but it is an excellent solution that I have never seen mentioned in discussions like this!

[@wilfriedvanhees]

I support most of the safety tips. That said, a guide fence should not support the wood any further than the midpoint of the saw + 1/2 inch, to prevent kickbacks. Never use a table saw without a riving knife.

[@SirTools]

Riving knife is nice to have. Every used saw seems to be missing that when they arrive here.