The Best Way to COLOR OVER Your Zenithal Prime

[@chrissteadman4614]

Thanks Adam. 95% of the tutorials I find on KZbin assume that the viewer wants to paint minis to the highest of standards. Great to see someone sharing hints and tips for table top standard paint jobs.

[@leejamesburns]

Yeah, this technique is where most of my painting is at currently. It scores highly on the result/effort chart, but also what's really important is you see results early in the process which keeps you motivated to keep going. Flat base coats of opaque paints look meh until you do something to make the details come out. Contrast over a zenithal prime looks good instantly.

[@KrisTomich]

It also lets you buy a handful of colors for your entire project instead of three per model feature. Even with contrasts, GW pushes a technique that sells paint more than being quicker.

[@rickpetersen5866]

Actually an old school way of speed painting. I learned this technique 30 years ago. But at that time it was using inks for your color. Now I find it works better with contrast paint.

[@arodreth]

Sometimes I take this one step further, and instead of a black/white zenithal, I go for grey primer => shoot black from below => and add white from the very zenith (like with a 80-90 degree angle) or sometimes, I switch out the black and grey for redbrown primer + tan primer, and again top with white or gray. I definitely agree with using a "hybrid" as in using a drybrush to further pronounce the highlight areas, definitely produces a nice result. you could even go with a diluted black wash step just before you start the drybrush, that can also smooth things out very nicely.

[@elsimian3483]

Thanks for pulling all these techniques into a super simple explanation. This is a real 'go to' video I can share with others for making minis look great without the daunting base/shade/highlight work.

[@ImperviousSC]

I'd like to see your review of the Army Painter paints, and how they compare with Contrast paints. I'm personally a fan of using contrast paints over a zenithal prime too. It's really easy and fast, and gives a good result at arms-length, which is all you really need for a tabletop army imo.

[@andrewbeach9097]

I know it took Uncle Atom a while to give his “review” of Contrast paints, but thought it was well considered. I would *definitely* want to hear what he thinks of the Army Painter Speedpaints.

[@joel6376]

Buy matte medium, flow improver(many names) and ink. Then make your own. It is very easy and the vajello ink set is cheap af and the individual parts have more flexibility than just contrast paint. If you are painting bulk you can make your own up in pots so it stays consistent across all your models.

[@darkstorminc]

Watch it paint it did a comparison of 3 of the AP paints to close match contrast. Interesting results.

[@kidcthulhufortney1320]

Basically this video and the last one were "Slapchop 101". I dig it! I also appreciate you did the same exact models and in the same paint colors. Really drives home the point.

[@markchristy9704]

This is a fantastic tutorial of how to paint over the zenithal base. Thanks! It's also the best sales pitch for contrast paints I've ever seen. Always appreciate your content, Uncle Atom!

[@oliverp3545]

I've found that using medium to dilute the paint works so much better than water, even when doing so with regular paints.

[@peterdickinson4599]

I’m not sure whether you’re referring to contrast paints or regular paints. If you’re talking about normal paints, then technically, adding medium isn’t diluting; you’re thinning the paint. I’ve found that most mediums (not thinners) don’t improve the flow of the paint off the brush. Lahmian medium is the exception, though personally, I think it’s a thinner, not a straight medium. I have paints from a few ranges and I fill an empty dropper bottle with distilled water and add a few drops of ethanol and have found that works very well as a dilutant with good flow and drying. If you’re referring to contrast paints then you shouldn’t be using water to begin with. I put a few drops of contrast medium in a well of a palette. I wash my brush in water as usual, wick off the excess water on a dry towel, and “wet” my brush in the contrast medium before going to the contrast paint. I’ve found that gives me consistent results.

[@oliverp3545]

@@peterdickinson4599 yeah when I said dilute I just meant in terms of pigment density.

[@peterdickinson4599]

@@oliverp3545 Yes, I thought that’s what you meant. Water will of course reduce the pigment density, it also reduces the concentration of acrylic binder, which can lead to flocculation of the finish, or a loss of control when applying the paint if you dilute too much. Adding neat medium extends your paint. Adding diluted medium thins your paint. Lahmian medium, Vallejo MC thinner, or Warcolours thinner are all great at what they do - make the paint easier to apply without breaking its integrity. I’m sure there are others. Probably as many as there are painters. Good luck.

[@dupeesfashionconsultant4204]

I love contrast paints. for someone like me who has zero artistic ability, they allowed me to make my models somewhat decent and I don't have to worry as much about highlights

[@willmendoza8498]

This series is one of my favorites you have done. Very practical and informative

[@oliverp3545]

I love basilicanum grey for recess shading.

[@walkerawhite4698]

I'm excited to see how the Army Painter Speed Paints perform for this task (I want to make some comic book looking minis in the near future) and whether I'll stick with Vallejo Glaze Medium or a if they'll have their own compatible medium.

[@MalaRhynn]

This is really helping me out with my new AoS projects. I bought my sister a bunch of rats and would like to get them painted in a timely maner!

[@pentacosttb2565]

I've been using this for my general dudes recently, gets very good results. For zenithal, I use black, then a top down grey spray, then white drybrush, which works well.

[@matthewhoskins3421]

I really appreciate how you tie your content together. I also really like seeing multiple variations on technique in one video. Looking forward to seeing a video using the hybrid technique and some Army painter Speed Paint.

[@Wardads1]

Gaiters is the word you might be looking for , and pain in the arseparts they were too ! I have seen them put on inside out ,back to front , swapped sides and upside down! A sergeant once ordered me to show a fellow recruit how to put them on correctly, failing this we would both be on extra duties, no leave.Nailed it thanks to a cheat sheet on the wall and tthe in side marked with texta .

[@joshuastorey2017]

The thing I like about this technique is that I am using it to paint armies, not show pieces. My entire Space Wolves army is painted like this and when they are all together it looks awesome. One thing I would add is to throw on a dark wash like Nuln Oil after you drybrush to kick that contrast up a notch with darker shadows.

[@thealldayspecial]

Yep yep it's definitely a solid move if you gotta get a lot of stuff knocked out, you're going for general uniformity with a large group over super super stylized overinvolved detailing and highlighting if you just don't physically have the time to put ages into a single miniature . I generally will bring up these easier ways to the perpetual person who's had unpainted stuff for awhile but not a ton of time on their hands

[@sasserine]

I used a variant of this, on Epic scale figures, back in the day. The models were far too small, to dry brush the different parts without hitting adjacent areas, but a white dry brush allowed me to use thin paint over the top.

[@jeremiahembs5343]

The dry brush over the different contrast paints does help a lot; ties together the highlight colors across the different local colors. An airbrush highlight with white ink tinted to the color of the light would do the same thing and give a less scratchy appearance.

[@timofaust1315]

Looking forward to AP Speedpaints to see how I can find a good balance between time and quality of paint. GW are just too expensive, but the range Army Painter releases in Feb seems both, affordable and a good variety in colour.

[@jherazob]

That comparison with colorized B&W photos is spot on, actually, has a similar feel to those :)

[@ErikSalaan]

Hey, if you go hybrid (airbrush first, drybrush second), it makes sense to me to airbrush gray, then drybrush super-lightly with a white. That way there's much more of a gradient.

[@timothyyoung2962]

Filthy Cape is my go to for dry brushing some highlights in my minis. Its one of my favorite greys. Did a whole "death cult" for This Is Not A Test and used Khorne Red and Filthy Cape as the main colors for the cult's uniforms.

[@DarthSid]

Nice one! My to go is using 1. grey seer and 2. corax white (rattlecan) and 3. praxeti white with a make up brush. I use this method for my Imperial Army (Star Wars Legion). For stuff with skin (e.g. Mortal Gods)i would use 1. wraithbone and 2. praxeti white. This is a fast and fun way to get your minis on the table.

[@josh1674]

I do black grey white zenithal and top with various brands of inks and then wash with an army painter soft or strong tone ink on the whole model for speed paints (I wash with different tones if I’m taking more time)

[@D3sToD3s]

I started painting my marines in base colors over Zenithal early that year and wondered why I'm bothering with Zenithal at all. Then they released Contrast and boy was I a happy chap about that. Also layer paints work with Zenithal. Not quite as good as shades and contrast obviously but still.

[@dwarrenmsp]

Looking to see the updated version of this video with the AP Speedpaints. Or a video comparing Contrast to Speedpaint.

[@dokdestiny2844]

Great vid again! Thx alot. As I do not own an airbrush and do not have a place to use a rattle can it is drybrush for me. I prime black, then drybrush a grey and then a white for extremes...works really well

[@MrBizteck]

Ive speed paints on pre order they look great!!! Ive always struggked with Zenital primer. Thanks

[@noctilithe1008]

This video is so focused ! And a great way to paint miniatures

[@GP_uniquehandlefail]

For those without an airbrush and limited ability to make use of rattlecans then a nice zenithal combination for priming and drybrushing is an all over primer using Vallejo grey surface primer and - once that is dried - using a thorough drybrushing of GW wraithbone for a soft, warm upper highlight apart from the recesses. The darker off white of the primer compared to the richer more creamy white of the drybrushed wraithbone works very well with contrast paints (and saves rattlecan costs/outside space needs)

[@griffglowen5555]

Great tip of drybrushing grey - I’ve just ordered some Filthy Cape

[@novicejohnd5803]

I’m a beginner, just about to paint minis on Horrified game, awesome thank you so much.

[@fransaacs]

This is very similar to a way of oil painting I was taught at art school, very traditional, very academic; lock in the tonal values (warm or cool) before layering up transparent color and then finishing with opaque highlights. Old school.

[@hobbytyrant]

I do a combination of airbrush zenithal and then do some drybrushing where its needed (Where I know there will be a bright color or the skin). Using white ink for zenithal prime (on black) is also great. Thinned down a bit it gets super smooth.

[@LeoxandarMagnus]

I got a lot of success with zenithal highlights when painting endless spells. Those glazes came in handy.

[@TerrierHalo]

It's nice to get all your tips gathered in videos like these, thank you.

[@Rhone007]

This video is superb. Great technique for doing a lot of models quick & looking nice. Showcases the contrast colors well too, as sometimes it is hard to know what their effect will be before you apply them (for me anyway). Kudos Uncle Atom!!👍

[@JPWestmas]

It definitely looks more like stone and more "natural" and less like plastic acrylic with this technique. Pretty cool!

[@hiddencloudninja]

I am doing something similar at the moment, but doing my zenithal prime with the light source colour over the shadow colour (eg orange over purple for afternoon light). I use the contrast paints as colour filters next, so all the colours interact, and drybrush with variations of the light source colour to tie it all into the environment

[@labtec514]

This has become one of my favourite techniques, I glaze over it with thinned down layer paints

[@dansmith9859]

Using acrylic inks is like magic with zenithal highlights because it's really translucent. They make an incredibly smooth blend.

[@House-Atreides]

Thanks so much Adam!! I’ve had this same question in my mind for years and afraid to try contrast paints. Never could otherwise understand the zenethal craze!

[@casemeisterT900]

This method is extremely close to how i do my chaff models now. I did ten of these cultists a couple weeks ago, and started just like you did. Zenithal, then contrast, then drybrush. I then after that thin down with AP strong tone, or Agrax Earthshade(depending on my mood) and give an all over wash to help tie it all together. Funny thing I noticed. I've come to really like using Vallejo game colour stonewall grey for all my drybrushing. Which look reallllly similar to the AP filthy cape

[@bangboats3557]

I can paint quite well but these days just havent the time to super detail 20+ figures at a time, so I love these super fast techniques. I also know I can go back anytime later, add more detail etc. But the secret to enjoying a miniatures game based hobby, is get some figures on the table and play some games.

[@timgillott9290]

On the cultist model, I believe the fan on his back is pumping air through the tubes and into his gasmask.

[@jimi1701a]

They look great for a fast paint job. So good. Well done sir. 👍

[@Artmesa]

An oil wash would improve these very quickly too! I noticed that Zenuthal highlighting tends to lighten my shadows and this fixes that!

[@insanewolve496]

First video of you I'm watching and I think you already heard this one but you look like a older, wiser and nicer version of Leonardo DiCaprio ^^ I like the video, great explanation and good editing

[@Eric-jt8yx]

great video. looking forward to your review of Army Painter's Speed Paints

[@Karlmakesstuff]

The single color drybrush over everything works great. I tend to prefer ivory but any off white really works well. Highlighting before coloring isn't something I've tried yet, but I've seen it done by Marco Frisoni IIRC. Wouldn't call it a speed paint, but it's a great effect.

[@divanavitch]

I took my glasses off in your video last week and you looked great.

[@DJRockford83]

Aren't those things on his boots gaiters? Anyway... great video, I love painting using this method and it's fantastic for newbies. PS: Army Painter Vs contrast when? 😁

[@spuriousevent7332]

@DJRockford83 yes gaiters not spats

[@HacksawsHobbyBunker]

@@spuriousevent7332 To be pedantic, the term "spats" is short for Spatterdashers (or Spatterdashes), which were worn by late 18th and early 19th century militaries over shoes to make a sort of proto-combat boot. Civilians wore them also for things like hunting, etc. The ones on these models have the buttons and even the stirrup-type strap that define Spatterdashers. They were commonly made from painted linen canvas or sometimes wool. Thats probably way more than you ever wanted to know about Spatterdahers. Cheers! ;-)

[@spuriousevent7332]

@@HacksawsHobbyBunker Wow, thanks I didn't realise. Always good to learn more, cheers.

[@ShadowCoH316]

I do almost the same thing with my Orks! Dark grey with a zenithal wraithbone, contrast colors for almost everything with some mild edge highlights and some different greens for variation in the highlights on the skin so they dont all look identical. Wrap it all up with a very subtle kislev flesh drybrush all over. Then hit the weapons, a few details, and the base! They still need the snakebites tattoos and such though. Not confident enough with my freehanding just yet. Gonna use some gretchen I have for practice before I move on to my boyz.

[@Marneus87]

Great video! Perfect explanation and good visuals. Thanks!

[@evanhughes7609]

Gaiters! Those things over the boots are called gaiters!

[@Phsstpok]

I completed my Slayer pledge of Order of the Vampire Hunters in this fashion. It was really fast and I am very satisfied with the results. But I think the result of zenithal + contrast + drybrush is a very.... hmm.. harsh... grim dark (isn't that the term nowadays?) look.. it goes well with Vampire Hunters and such gritty settings. It may not be the best choice when it comes to more "heroic" or "comic" style games like zombicide (at least I painted mine this way). Maybe the choice of the zenithal color (wraithbone instead of white) and some darker version as the undercoat might result in a more lighter and brighter look.

[@bartdevuyst]

Great video, I love this technique and it's my go-to method for painting at the moment.

[@TrentRosenbaum]

This was a great video and going to try it for sure. I've found adding a dry brush here and there to guide highlights really works. This is another good method. Thanks 👍🖌️🎨

[@Duette-1]

I'm surprised you didn't mention using inks over zenithal. They work great!

[@RobOngrui]

I prefer to do Zenithal (Black, grey, white) and then a wash of nuln oil and then the contrast paints. It boosts the contrast a lot and helps to darken down the pastel colors. Wash over Contrast paints looks straight up worse.

[@Unrealchamp88]

I like to use opaque colours on smaller details that I want to draw attention to. It's a nice way to combine two painting techniques. Love Snakebite Leather. If you out that over a metallic colour it gives a nice brass colour finish. I've also begun experimenting with a normal zenithal prime but doing a final coat with a metallic colour directly from above. I used Templar armour spray from TT combat but it's a bit dark and the can is crap. So if anyone's got a got good silver spray they can recommend, then I'm all ears.

[@BB-pn2qv]

Now you need to have a top ten contrast paint recommendations

[@TheMrFishnDucks]

Great video. Keep up the good work.

[@ryanshout8652]

Nice. thanks Adam

[@SingularityStudios]

CTRL + Z love it a lot.

[@jimi1701a]

Just watched spikey bits video on the army painter Speed paints. They seem to be quite impressive. Thoughts? On spikey bits vid I mean lol. I'm sure if uncle atom likes them he'll b tellin' us. 🙂

[@johnbruce4004]

Genuinely interested. Good comparison between techniques. Same conclusion too, hybrid may be best - see also Vince's recent AoS Ork (?) Army. Hope that's ok to mention. Ta

[@johnbryant6690]

I find Leviadon Blue rather dark. It really tends to obscure things. Even with the dry brush, it needs just a bit of lightening up. I have used Talassar Blue for a good Blue. Then again the goal may have been a muted blue.

[@gribblegreeble]

hey! I have that ctrl-z shirt too! also, good video.

[@8eos80]

Sorry for the silly question, I'm just trying to understand the difference here...Just after the 9-min mark, you showed a very nice looking model using contrast paints. Would that look any different if you hadn't done the black and white zenithal? For example, if you had just primed everything black, or a warm white, and then used the same contrast paints, would the finished model look any different? Thank you for your videos, I always apply what you share with us!

[@tabletopminions]

The white to black underneath is what makes the Contrast paint (which is transparent) look lighter and darker. Thanks for watching!

[@drnoobsauce]

what air brushing kit do you recommend? do you have airbrushing tutorial?

[@xreev0x]

Love the shirt!

[@cordial001]

"Fun, easy process". You're playing my song.

[@Sammo212]

What about something like white dry brushed over mechanics standard gray?

[@Marconius6]

I like how this video is just as in focus as last week's.

[@adamkstevens]

Love that t-shirt. It's a modern classic, though I can't recall it's orgins. Do you remember where you picked it up?

[@tabletopminions]

It’s a Threadless design from a long time ago. Thanks for watching!

[@mikepags5029]

What are your thoughts on the contrast paints vs thinning the paints you already own?

[@tabletopminions]

Well, thinning your paints down to a transparent glaze is a way to go, but it can then take multiple layers to get the color you may want. It’s just more time, mostly. The upside to products like Citadel Contrast paints is that they get darker in the crevices and nicely stain the midtones. It’s all personal preference. Thanks for watching!

[@BB-pn2qv]

Thanks for doing this!

[@starnostras]

Fake it til you make it. Top advice as ever.

[@Smaakakor]

I'm on the fence on the new army painter "speed paint" untill uncle atom makes a video about them.I kind of want to place an order, but i think i will wait till we know from you and also goober me thinks

[@eroooz]

Ok Adam, you did it. Now I have try this on my ork komandos. Thanks for good content :) happy Orktober.

[@leejamesburns]

Ork Flesh Contrast Paint works like a dream over a zenithal prime. I'm doing an Ork Kill Team at the moment. I'm mixing in a little of a different paint - maybe a dark green wash, maybe a touch of yellow - to the Ork Flesh Contrast Paint for each new Ork so they all come out a little different. It's going well so far. Happy Orktober!

[@grafzahl3047]

I love the shirt! 😄👍🏻

[@tayloredwards8010]

Question. I plan to prime my Black Templars with Runelord Brass rattle can. Can I use the zenith techniques with white on that without losing that metallic feel?

[@tayloredwards8010]

Nevermind I had a better big brain idea. Can I use leadblecher rattle can and do a zenith highlight with runelord or another bronze color?

[@razielthewraith2042]

Thank you so much for teaching us how to paint "Atom-style," Uncle Atom! Since I am never able to catch the Twitch stream, this video and its predecessor have been really useful in tying together all the tidbits of painting advice I've heard you give over the years! One question: What if the color you need doesn't match any of the existing Contrast paints (as awesome as they are)? Would you add a glaze medium to your standard acrylic paint color, or do something else? Thanks!

[@madhatter1662]

I have thought about doing this over grisaille.

[@brucebabcock9147]

"Spats" were the civilian version of the military gaiter. Gaiters is the more correct word in this instance, I think. Great content, as usual! Do the Monument Hobbies transparent paints fit into this category?

[@timstinies9519]

All the pa-chows !!! Love it!

[@cinnabarsin4288]

Certainly hope the Army Painter version are good and we see Vallejo and others come out with their takes. I like the idea of contrast paints but aren't interested in the GW premium.

[@JoeyC777]

AAAAH! That's what Atom looks like in focus?!? ;o)

[@beemo1579]

Man.. that spray can version looks terrible. But for someone without an airbrush that drybrush version looks quite good. Certainly something I will try next.

[@ChairmanMjau]

Filty cape is probably your answer to pale sand! :D

[@redhood7670]

Can you give any tips or advice for this for metallics? I'm trying to learn how to zenithal prime for my iron warriors and some tips would be very appreciated

[@eldraque4556]

Do you need to use special paints for the zenifal for the contrast paints to work? like wraithbone

[@tabletopminions]

No, Contrast paints will work over any primers. Thanks for watching!

[@thomasmontgomery4597]

In a military context, tey are called gaiters - not spats - that is civilian, worn with tuxs and other formal wear.

[@michaelwright3886]

I got the joke about chaps. Made my day.

[@valkdoorr]

would you recommend using army painter speedpaints instead of contrast paints? I saw they have a bundle for the 2.0 line and it seems more comprehensive than buying the Gw contrast paints one by one (I can't find a bundle if there is one).

[@tabletopminions]

I would - I prefer the color range and I like how they work better than Contrast paints. And of course: dropper bottles are better than pots. Thanks for watching!

[@michaelholts1598]

The rattle can is SO gritty!

[@rbrentw]

I like the 'undo' shirt.