Taking apart the annealing machine

[@CHIBA280CRV]

Fantastic build sir 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@franprinsloo8885]

I don't know how to thank you ...this is one of the best explanations ever. I'm definitely keeping my eye on your channel to see what the future holds. Thank you for the effort you put into the video explaining everything.

[@sjseth-builds]

You're very welcome!

[@jesusisalive3227]

Cut a slot in the adapters that is flush with the plate and as wide as the case base.

[@sjseth-builds]

That is definitely easier than what I was planning on. I would have to ensure the slot was always oriented correctly, but that would be pretty easy. The one downside of that approach is the stack of brass still drags on the plate and I was hoping to eliminate that drag. Thanks for the feedback and ideas!

[@jesusisalive3227]

I have a great idea if interested. It would use a nema 17 stepper and a simple arm.

[@sjseth-builds]

​@@jesusisalive3227 Thanks for the suggestion. I have considered this approach but really looking for a non-electronic, mechanical solution for the feeder. I have a couple ideas around using a spring or set of springs similar to a pen clip where the top of the spring catches the base of the cartridge and the bottom edge contacts the adaptor. The adaptor would push the spring out to the right or left or both and allow the next cartridge to drop down. Anyhow, thanks for the suggestions. Will eventually post a video on what I come up with for that.

[@williamfitzpatrick2421]

do you have a list for the box an top plate plus dimmisons

[@sjseth-builds]

In regards to dimensions, the top plate on the machine is 12.5in x 14in. The disc is 12" diameter. from bottom to top the machine is roughly 6in tall. Hope that helps. On the top there is roughly a .5in overhang on 3 sides and about 1.5in overhang in the back which allows more room for the torch pillar and nuts. The whole think is made from .25in aluminum except for the feed which was machined from a a block of aluminum.

[@williamfitzpatrick2421]

@@sjseth-builds THANK YOU

[@williamfitzpatrick2421]

hi sjseth i have been working on the poject you show trying to download the software keep geeting an error on line 2 liquidcrystal no such file or directory... this is my frist time trying arduino or any other electronics projects i want to make this anealer have brass to reload thank you

[@sjseth-builds]

@@williamfitzpatrick2421 in the arduino software, you will need to install the liquid crystal library. You can do this from the sketch menu, include library

[@williamfitzpatrick2421]

@sjseth thank you will try it

[@timmorris5580]

I have been working on the annealer for about a year now and I'm ready to program the Arduino. I have downloaded the Arduino program and question is, can i copy your program into the website program and is there anything that I need to do special to download and make it work? Thanks, Tim

[@sjseth-builds]

You need to download and install the Arduino IDE software from the Arduino website: www.arduino.cc/en/software . You also need to download my arduino code from github. Easiest thing is download the whole github repository as a zip file. You can do this from the repo home page (github.com/sjseth/ArduinoAnnealer) where there is a "Code" button menu and in that menu is a download as zip option. Once you extrat the zip, you can browse to the arduinonew.ino file and double-click it to open. It should open in the arduino ide software. You need to tell the software which usb port the arduino is connected to. I would highly recommend watching some youtube videos on getting started with arduino and how to program them as there is a ton of resource available here. Good luck and cheers!

[@timmorris5580]

Thank You Very Much

[@307bret]

A couple of questions regarding components, such as name: (1) the part you take off the shaft at 7 minutes, (2) on the schematic, the component that has 5 volts and 12 volts feeding the other devices, (3) does the power supply connect to the part just referenced, (4) would a modified computer power supply, that has 12 volt and 5 volt outputs work. Thank you.

[@sjseth-builds]

(1) This was a part I made which is roughly 1.25in x .50in . Not sure what to call it but I think I referred to it as the rotating base plate. (2) This is a 12v to 5v buck converter. Link here: www.amazon.com/dp/B00C63TLCC . (3) The 12v side is connected to the 12v power supply to provide a 5v rail. (4) If you have a power supply which can provide 12v and 5v (like a computer power supply), you would not need the converter.

[@sjseth-builds]

After looking at the schematic, I realized that I wasn't quite clear on the power supply part. Basically the 12v power supply is connected at the Red (12v) and Black (ground) boxes in the bottom of the schematic and that is what provides power to the entire circuit

[@DUD3_BR0]

that is an absolutely massive stepper motor? Why such a high toque motor? Is there a lot of resistance when dragging the cases along the table?

[@sjseth-builds]

You are correct, it is definitely overkill. You can get away with using a lower-torque stepper however, there are a few things to consider. When you are using a feeder with a stack of 20 pieces of brass pushing down on the plate at a single point, you need the power to move the plate without losing steps. It requires more force than you would think. See my previous video on how the feeder works. I realize that the problem could be overcome by using a different feeder design and that is something I am working on currently. Another reason is that the plate is solid quarter inch aluminum so it also has some weight and momentum and I found with the smaller motor I was losing steps. There are lots of mechanical ways to overcome this but for simplicity I went with direct drive. The extra $15 for the bigger stepper seemed like a no brainer at the time. Later I discovered that using acceleration/deceleration helps with countering the momentum. Thanks for watching and for your question!

[@grantsimpson3299]

Built one pretty much exactly like yours. Metal work is all done I've got it programmed and the LCD lights up, but doesn't display anything. Been troubleshooting it all day, changed the program to (0x27,16,2) to no avail..... Any ideas?

[@sjseth-builds]

sounds like the lighting on the module maybe too high. There is a generally a brightness potentiometer (usually blue) on the back of the module which you can adjust. I had the same problem on one of my modules.

[@grantsimpson3299]

@@sjseth-builds Ended up being a bad display from the factory. The new one came in today and it now works fine. I had to adjust the index steps. The original program was for 798 steps which gave me 180 degrees of rotation. I halved that and tried 399 steps for 90 degrees of rotation. For some reason I don't understand that was just a little off and the final indexstep for 90 degrees of rotation was 398. This had been a fun project for me. Definitely got me out of my comfort zone putting the electronics together and I learned a little programming. Thanks for putting this out there and giving a new-be some free advice.

[@sjseth-builds]

@@grantsimpson3299 glad you got it working! Yeah, I noticed that the math doesn't always add up to what is expected. I also think it varies from controller to controller when you are using partial steps. I don't really know why as I am sort of a noob with arduino

[@timmorris5580]

what pins do you use to connect the programming USB

[@sjseth-builds]

Oh, good question. I just realized that is not in the schematic. I have updated the schematic with that information included. (see video description for the links) also here: raw.githubusercontent.com/sjseth/ArduinoAnnealer/main/schematic_new.jpg. I used the FT232RL to program the mini pro. Generally you can just solder the 6pin right angle connector to the arduino and connect the FT232RL with a 6 wire ribbon. I used a kit like this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086ZLB5GG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@timmorris5580]

@@sjseth-builds Thanks for your help and a great product.

[@danielcopeland4588]

Man I had a similar idea. But this is way sweeter than anything I could of came up with. At first I thought you had 3d printed it. But this diy annealer is nicer than anything I have seen. Would you be interested in selling one I know you said you probably had 300 in it but I like the design alot

[@sjseth-builds]

Thanks Daniel! I would love to be able to make these and sell them, but really don't have the time or resources to accomplish it at this point in time. In the original video for this project, there are links for the schematics and Arduino source code for anyone who wants to do one their selves. Here are the links as well: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqCanopsgNmhodk github.com/sjseth/ArduinoAnnealer Cheers!

[@user-cu6kg9pw2b]

Hallo Are you willing to build one annealer for me? I like it what you did excellent. Let me know how I can contact you. Thanks

[@sjseth-builds]

Thanks! I am not currently building these and merely shared this idea for those feeling adventurous enough to build their own.