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স্কিন স্পেশালিষ্ট ডাঃ মোঃ রাশিদুল হাসান
সহযোগী অধ্যাপক ও বিভাগীয় প্রধান
ডার্মাটোলজি বিভাগ, ইউএস বাংলা মেডিক্যাল কলেজ, ঢাকা
চেম্বারঃ ফরাজী হাসপাতাল (রামপুরা) ও ল্যাবএইড (বাড্ডা)
Nowadays, plenty of procedures that were once reserved for the dermatologist’s office can be carried out at home.
Microneedling is one of them. The DIY option of this scary-sounding facial technique goes by a different name: derma rolling.
These handheld devices, featuring a roller with row upon row of tiny needles, are way cheaper and more convenient than visiting a pro.
But do they provide the same benefits as traditional microneedling?
What’s the short answer?
To get the most out of any derma roller, you need to know how to use it in a way that helps your skin, rather than damaging it.
Plus, you need to limit your expectations.
While at-home derma rollers can provide a noticeable effect, you won’t see as much of a difference as you would from a needling session with a professional.
What are they used for?
Derma rollers have a number of uses, but the main ones are for improving pigmentation issues and improving the surface of the skin.
Fine lines, acne scars, and hyperpigmentation are all said to be diminished with regular derma rolling.
In reality, the above tend to need the help of professional microneedling, which uses longer needles than the at-home version.
For example, a 2008 study found that four microneedling sessions resulted in up to a 400 percent rise in collagenTrusted Source, a protein that makes skin firmer.
You may not be able to produce these results at home.
However, derma rollers can allow skin care products to penetrate deeper, producing more powerful effects.
That’s why any decent aesthetician will numb your face beforehand.
Are there any side effects or risks to consider?
Derma rolling is a minimally invasive procedure so as long as you use the right technique in conjunction with the right serum, you’re unlikely to experience side effects.
if you aren’t careful, though, it “could potentially cause permanent scarring and darkening of the skin,” says Dr. Saya Obayan, board-certified clinical dermatologist from Skin Joy Dermatology.
Some people should avoid derma rolling completely. This includes those with eczema, psoriasis, or a history of blood clots.
People with skin conditions that could easily spread to other parts of the face, such as active acne or warts, should also consult with a healthcare provider before DIYing.
If you’re using retinol, taking Accutane, or have sunburn, you should also be wary.
Experts advise stopping retinol 5 days before derma rolling to avoid an adverse reaction.
When it comes to things like sunburn or inflammation, you can still use a derma roller as long as you avoid affected areas.
How do you pick the right one?
Although you can buy longer needles for at-home use, it’s best to stick to a derma roller with a needle length of less than 0.5 millimeters.
Any needle above this length runs a higher risk of damaging skin and is best left to a pro.
Don’t forget to do your research. Only buy from trusted sites and stores, and check that the product has been properly sterilized before it reaches you.
How do you pick the right serum?
If you do decide to use a serum with your derma roller, choose one that will benefit your face when it penetrates your skin.
Some serum ingredients can cause an adverse reaction if sent further into the skin.
Steer clear of potentially irritating retinol and vitamin C.
Instead, opt for ones rich in hyaluronic acid, says aesthetician Laura Kearney, owner of Skinsanity.
These will seal in moisture and assist with the regenerative process that can improve skin tone and texture.
How do you do it?
Thankfully, derma rolling isn’t too complicated to master. Stick to these simple steps for a sterile, effective experience.
Preparation
To reduce the chance of bacteria transfer, thoroughly cleanse both your skin and the roller. Use gloves if possible, advises Kearney.
It’s best to derma roll at night when your skin isn’t susceptible to sun damage.
If you’re sticking to this evening regime, you may want to consider double cleansing to get rid of oil and dirt that’s built up on your skin during the day.
To clean the derma roller, soak it in an alcohol-based solution. Then dry and place on a clean paper towel.