TEAC A-3440 Reel to Reel Tape Machine Repair

[@harryguenther9368]

Thank you very much. I have this same deck. I found it in a storage closet at the University. Its in good shape but probably hadn't seen the light of day for 20+ years. lol Pinch roller issue is exactly the same as you describe. Wish me luck. All the Best.

[@COFFEE-e3p]

NICE JOB MATE , THANK-YOU FOR THE WALK THRU, I MYSELF HAVE A TEAC A4300SX DECK, WITH REMOTE CONTROL , ..JUST A NOTE THESE MACHINES ALSO HAVE OIL TUBES FOR THE MOTORS, VERY SMALL !!

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

Thank you for watching and the compliment. I did not notice the oil tubes to be honest. I'll have to take another look. I do have the remote for this deck as well.

[@Omersoykan-e8r]

excellent description

[@jamesford4607]

Outstanding restoration video, and I've never seen such high-quality video, lighting, and focus. What camera do you use? I have a TEAC A-3440 and use it to digitize old reels from local radio stations. The variable speed comes in handy to pull music back to A-440 Hz that was recorded off speed. There is a lever beneath the pinch roller that I didn't hear you mention. I never use it, but it can force the tape against the playback head during FF or RW for cueing the tape. Thanks for sharing. Simply the best 26 minutes I've ever watched on KZbin.

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

Thanks for the kind words and compliments. Happy to know you enjoyed the video. I use a Nikon Z30 with 16-50mm lens and Shure wireless mic. The lighting is basically what is always at the bench but I did add one extra studio flood light at about 25% brightness from behind me to help with shadows. Yes that extra lever lifts the tape and I forgot to mention that.

[@giovannivitale8970]

Hi first of all I want to compliment you on your work. I have a Tascam mod. 34 that when I press stop the tape continues to unwind. Could you make a tutorial on how to calibrate the brakes. Thanks

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

Thanks! For the brake issue you are having I'd look at the mechanical parts to make sure nothing is stuck or broken. Then make sure the solenoid(s) is(are) activating and releasing the brake bands at the proper time. If all of that is ok then it is an adjustment issue. The Tascam service manuals will have the procedure, you can get the manual on www.hifiengine.com or probably find a copy on eBay. If at some point I have a machine needing brake calibration I will share that in a video.

[@giovannivitale8970]

thanks for replying and i will follow your advice Reply

[@fegyo1729]

Hey Erik, this was an awesome video thank you for taking the time to make this! I’m brand new to all of this and it’s getting me excited… I think I have a lead to an issue that I’m having. I have the TEAC A-3440 four channel simul-sync. I’m having this issue where the right arm dips out too fast and the tape keeps rolling. Sometimes it will even snap my tape. I opened the back up and it appears my solenoid plunger isn’t coming all the way out after I hit stop. This is on my R-take up reel. It keeps rolling eventually leading to snapped tape. I’m not sure how to go about cleaning that plunger. I’m also not sure if it’s a tension issue. Any help would be great!

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

Happy to know you enjoyed the video! If the right arm is dropping the take up tension may be the problem. The green colored resistors I show in the top of the unit set the take up and back tension. But you shouldn't mess with them unless you read up first in the service manual. If the right arm drops all the way down but does not shut off the machine there is a problem with the switch or the switch cam. Also check for stuck mechanisms like in this video, quite common to happen, my X-1000R had a similar issue with stuck capstan arms. service manual is posted here museumofmagneticsoundrecording.org/images/R2R/TeacA3440ServiceManual.pdf

[@fegyo1729]

@ Thank you for your quick response! When the right arm drops the machine does shut off. The R-take up reel (facing front) just spins a little longer than the L-reel (facing front). The L-reel solenoid plunger pops back out when I press on it and the R-reel solenoid plunger doesn’t pop back out the way the L-reel does. It’s feels like there’s less force pushing back on the R-reel solenoid plunger. Would adjusting the back tension, as shown in the manual, push that plunger out the way it’s supposed to? Or is it a dirt problem or possibly both you think? I just want to see how far I can narrow it down since this is my first time getting into the back of my machine.

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

@@fegyo1729 The tension adjust resistors would not affect the brakes. The brakes should only be on when the deck is stopped (or stopping). The solenoid might be sticking. You can try cleaning the plunger with isopropyl alcohol. If the reel motor or brake solenoid is being powered too long or at the wrong time compared with the other reel motor there might be an electrical problem in the control circuit. As a reference in my video at the end you can see how the machine should move the tape.

[@julian65886]

I have the same model but with the smaller conventional reels. Right now it is stored in the basement and have not used it for at least 20 years. I purchased it in 1979 for over 800 dollars. I often wander about restoring it, but now I only record on a DAW.

[@randomlyselecteduser]

Just a little feedback... A little something on what "oil" you used would be good. Is it ok to use lithium grease in this application? I'm really enjoying your videos so far. You're great at explaining things just right--not too complicated, but not too dumbed-down. Thanks for your work! :)

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

The oil is sold by Atlas for precision motors and model railroad. I talk about it in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/d5KweWdoaNCMqZY at 9 minutes into the video. The grease is Super Lube Multipurpose Synthetic Grease with PTFE. It is safe for plastics too. I wouldn't recommend using lithium grease. Glad you are enjoying the videos, thanks for watching!

[@randomlyselecteduser]

@@EriksElectronicsWorkbench Cool, ty! :)

[@bob-s-bit-s]

hi i worked on this model this can be jazzed up on the capstan motor and the play back eq i need to play back some 4 channel 3 3/4 ips tapes i have a teac 44 well over the top of this one there's alot of the same parts used in teac decks

[@steelcantuna]

Hi, Thanks for the video. My capstan assembly will NOT slide out of the flywheel even with the set screws completely removed. It doesn’t matter how hard I push or pull in either direction. I have a pretty annoying tapping sound coming from either the capstan or the capstan motor itself, I can’t tell which. I measured the extent of the capstan shaft through the flywheel. It is actually at zero. I measured another TEAC a-3440 I have & it was dead on just like yours at 0.9 mm. Do you think that could be causing the tapping sound on the machine that is at zero on the shaft through the flywheel? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

There may be a burr or irregularity on the shaft or inside the flywheel that is not allowing the shaft to move. It could also have old oil that has become hardened and is stuck. You might try carefully heating the shaft and flywheel center with a heatgun, not too excessive though. Yes the tapping sound is probably endplay on the shaft since the shaft does not protrude past the flywheel. You might try pushing the flywheel forward until it stops and then tap the shaft forward (towards front of machine) using a soft wooden dowel. But don't hit it with excessive force. That may free up the shaft.

[@chairheeos]

I have a Akai GX 286 that just goes into reverse not matter what I do. Was working fine last night. What do you think could be wrong? Going to pull it apart soon, maybe after Christmas.

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

I've not worked on this model but I have to think it is something in the circuit related to the transport control switches, capstan direction control, or the auto reverse circuit. Try moving the auto reverse switch and see if that changes anything.

[@Omersoykan-e8r]

I have a TEAC X-2000R - do you provide repair maintenance service?

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

Sorry but not taking in projects at this time.

[@bob-s-bit-s]

hi have a soundcraft 381-8 i service the deck it was working nice again but i put the deck away again bad new when i was not using it alot of caps had gone bad i know they would go bad i only buy gear i can fix note to all if you get gear it may work ok when you have it it's a time bomb ready to go of

[@richardwoodwards1202]

I always wanted to own from new but never had the funds

[@fichambawelby2632]

Sorry, but the capstan is extremely dirty. With a cotton and acetone will leave it as new. As yes: it is important that the capstan is absolutely clean, as you must do with the pinch roller. And regarding this recorder, it has a terrible signal to noise ratio. Well, it's beatiful. And if you can obtain almost one, use another tape than Ampex (Agfa, Maxell, 3M, Pyral). BTW: I love your videos. But in this one I can't keep my mouth closed. Thanks a lot.

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

The capstan is ceramic and seems to have permanently discolored. I have tried cleaning with various chemicals. I also heard the TEAC capstans are prone to discoloring. The ceramic surface is porous and not slick like a stainless steel capstan which cleans to a shine. I don't doubt there are other machines with better s/n specs but it still sounds quite amazing and I agree a nice looking tape machine too. I do have other higher quality tapes, this is just a test tape in case the machine eats it!

[@fichambawelby2632]

@@EriksElectronicsWorkbenchdon’t be afraid; take a piece of cotton and put acetone inside it. Then clean the capstan (and also the pinch roller) deeply. Don’t be afraid. The MCI JH24, 2" 24 track audio recorder has a ceramic capstan also. And believe me: it becomes extremely dirty using specially Ampex 499 tapes (the most expensive and, after the years, the worst). You can repeat the procedure until you had removed all this dirt. I have a PhD in electronics engineering, and studio owner since 1.975. And I own a bunch of these machines, mics, and a very long list of equipment, including a mint Fairchild 670.

[@fichambawelby2632]

@@EriksElectronicsWorkbenchBTW: this is not a change from pure white to an “ivorish” color; this is dirt. Anyway, I have Studers with steel capstans which are like the first day. In its moment, people like MCI told us that ceramics will not polish with use. Commercial arguments, you know. The Sony PCM 3348 is capstanless, and the guides are made of rubi. Same with Ampex tapes: the worst of them all. I am here if you need help.

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

@@fichambawelby2632 I appreciate the tech service tip and offer to help. I have honestly tried cleaning with acetone, and other chemicals too, with the capstan running and pressing a cotton pad to the capstan and the remaining color you see does not remove. It just seems to be part of the capstan which is smooth to touch. Yes I wish it did look cleaner but it won't come off. The heads and other components are clean and perfect. I know pinch rollers must be clean but I always worry when cleaning them as a I had a bad experience on my TASCAM BR-20T with normal cleaning the rubber roller turned to soft goo. Very expensive to replace it! Perhaps the roller had just aged and deteriorated.

[@fichambawelby2632]

@@EriksElectronicsWorkbenchwell, I believe in you, of course. But I can send you pics of before and after clean any ceramic capstan. It’s extrange the amount of dirt of your capstan. It’s absolutely no normal. Thanks for your answers!

[@Dutch-linux]

Again you should show the cleaning the taking apart and everything you left out !!!! what is the use to watch a repair video when you do not show the repair !!!!! I an subscribed but I do not know for how long i still will be if you do not show the whole process !!!! so thumb down for this video

[@EriksElectronicsWorkbench]

The tape machine only needed the one mechanism serviced which is shown. There was no other cleaning or work done besides what was talked about. I didn't show cleaning the individual parts but I just used isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to clean off the old grease and oil.

[@COFFEE-e3p]

@@EriksElectronicsWorkbench AS AN ADDED NOTE TO THE FELLA COMPLAINING ABOUT DUMPING DOWN YOUR VIDEO , MAYBE A LITTLE MECHANICAL /ELECTRICAL COMMON SENSE IS IN ORDER ,, YOUR VIDEO WAS AWESOME ....THANK-YOU ..PEACE !!