Marlin Input Shaping - Step by step guide to more speed and less ringing

[@samuelrilling]

After going over this myself and having to troubleshoot many hours, here's 2 important points i wish i heard when i started: -If you are generating a ringing test that does not induce ringing, check the speed (which you should always do anyways btw), because many slicers have a minimum layer time threshold, which if left on can be overriding your set external perimeter speed and can be quite frustrating to find what is capping it. -You actually CAN insert the input shaping command in Cura, using the "Insert at Layer Change" Script from the Post Processing Plugin, it makes it so much easier not having to start profiles from the ground up in a new slicer. I wish that could be added to the description of the video so the many Cura users that might want to implement this can skip some headaches as well. Great video as well.

[@SantiagoLuz]

How to use "Insert at Layer Change" to perform this test? Isn't it fixed (same gcode applied every layer change)?

[@davidswygart7472]

Great tip on checking minimum layer time. In PrusiaSlicer it can be found in: Filament Settings -> Cooling -> Slow down if layer print time is below:

[@watchingwatches7863]

Thanks a lot i would have spend the same time too without your comment

[@TravisFabel]

I literally just downloaded PrusaSlicer for this, installed it, then read this comment. I dont really want to use a new slicer for setup that I dont plan to use everyday. Thank you.

[@daniladergachev]

Wow, I had no idea Marlin supports Input Shaping, spent all night reconfiguring it for my printer, got it working already, now time to calibrate the values :) I'm having so much fun thanks to you

[@RusakovLA]

Wow, I flashed new firmware this morning and just now sat down to start calibrating. Perfect timing and thank you.

[@nturner82]

I'm a fellow Aussie that is just getting into 3D printing. Can I just say that your channel has been very useful so far! Thank you for sharing your passion and knowledge!

[@dtibor5903]

I print on my ender 3v2 with 2500 acceleration without input shaping and it looks better...

[@ScienceMessiah]

Remember e.g. on i3 style machines, if you have your spool holder mounted on top of the frame, your resonance frequency (especially y-axis) changes with decreasing mass (weight) on the spool and increasing mass of an ongoing print. Better to choose a value for y slightly higher than calculated to.compensate for these effects.

[@LULASVC]

I have a Biqu B1 and compiled Marlin 2.1.2 with Input Shapeing and Lin Advance enabled and after calibration I am happy to get 30%-50% more speed in my printings. Best free upgrade

[@LesNewell]

Before looking at input shaping pay attention to frame rigidity and belt tension. If you have a bed slinger a brace for the tower makes a huge difference. For instance I'm resurrecting an early Tenlog D3, a very generic idex bed slinger. Before I started it had terrible ringing even at 50mm/s, 500 acceleration. With tower braces made from two 8mm carbon tubes, the Y axis driver replaced with a TMC2209(more on order for the other axes) and klipper installed I'm getting virtually perfect 35 minute PETG benchies using 100mm/s and 7000 acceleration with a small amount of input shaping. Admittedly I do drop the outer wall speed to 75mm/s, 3000 accel. 7000 accel still leaves a bit of ringing.

[@whoguy4231]

Works very well. Been using it for a month and have retuned twice. So far so good with a noticeable improvement in print quality vs speed. Used in combination with linear(pressure) advance and classic jerk. Found junction deviation and s-curve a waste of time with loss of quality and bulgy corners.

[@dtibor5903]

S-curve gives terrible quality on a bowden. I run my ender 3v2 with a marlin variant, all motion is basic and i have very subtle ringing with 2000 acceleration. Not sure what he is doing wrong, but that ringing looks excessive. Maybe it's the sturdy table. I made the bed way lighter and the whole printer is mounted on a tile that sits on a sheet of PU foam.

[@whoguy4231]

@@dtibor5903 Try running input shaper anyway. You might be surprised!

[@VolkanTaninmis]

​@@whoguy4231 Since switching to a new motherboard, I have been creating my own firmware file using sample configuration files. I was very surprised when I turned off the junction deviation and s-curve nonsenses and went back to classic jerk. Linear advance worked perfectly without these two.

[@zeke7515]

I've been waiting for this video.

[@fritzstudios8571]

I've been waiting for you to comment on waiting for this video.

[@carlpratt692]

@user-ht2kn9jh9s the ⁶7

[@BurittoSandwich]

I've been waiting for you to comment on waiting for this comment about waiting for this video.

[@russdesigns]

The comments tip is so ridiculously simple, but after just customizing my Marlin recently, I wish I had done that!

[@amadensor]

Meld merge is a great tool for seeing differences in files, or in whole git repositories.

[@hman72y]

Winmerge work great also on Windows 😉

[@SuburbanStewards]

Hey Michael , Great vid as always , but @ 10:42 you measure X being 19mm and Y being 16.3mm , However you apply them in reverse @ 11:07 in the Video , Swap them and do a reprint !! :-) ,

[@chk1414]

Yeah, I noticed that too.

[@mutlubasdas]

Awesome update for Marlin users!

[@LivinWorkin]

All the yes Micheal! Thank you for posting this! Pretty excited, now to spend some more time on my ender... 🤤

[@tombrazier6172]

Thank you Michael. At the end it may also be advisable to go back and set the X and Y frequencies in Configuration_adv.h and rebuild (again!). These frequencies bake in the minimum shaping frequencies that Marlin can do without sometimes having to back off the input shaping effect. Alternatively if you have tons of RAM just pick low frequencies at the outset or use SHAPING_MIN_FREQ. (Under the covers this is all affecting the size of a buffer that is allocated at compile time. Which is why it so directly affects SRAM usage.)

[@Lucas_sGarage]

i added it pretty much as soon as the 2.1.2 dropped, and its been a blast, im currently printing at around 250mm/s and 3.5-4k accel, jd of 0.15 and jerk of 20, and it looks amazing, my board is an skr 1.4 and i also have a tft 35 v2.0

[@majo8526]

Hello, where did you connect the ADXL sensor... do you have a picture for me... THANK YOU... I have the SKR 1.4 turbo

[@Lucas_sGarage]

​@@majo8526 you don't do it, the calibration is manual for now

[@Festivejelly]

I thought you used Junction Deviation OR Jerk. WWhat sort of machine are you running is it a coreXY?

[@Lucas_sGarage]

@@Festivejelly I started with JD but went back to jerk, in my application wasn't working very well, it's a normal bed slinger and I have a few speedbenchys runs on my channel

[@eucharistenjoyer]

Great video as always Michael. I want to bring new life to my 2 Ender 3 Pros and I think a video showing the best options to turn on on Marlin and to tune to get the best result from the printer would be great. I mean, we have input shaping, junction deviation, linear advance, hybrid threshold, s-curve acceleration. It can get confusing on what is actually worth turning on, what works well together and what doesnt.

[@EZPCTECH]

10:07 my closes up little from the very bottom. What could cause it?

[@kb3ayo581]

Thanks for all that detailed video on input shaping. I even ordered and received the new input shaping drivers. I live in eastern US and couldn't believe it only took 3 days to get them. Haven't tried them yet as I'm still going through the calibration routines for my filaments. I've been riveted to my printer after seeing the latest calibration video.

[@zerog2000]

Upgrading my Powerspec Ultra3D to Marlin 2.1.2, excited to try this out! Thanks for the exhaustive video covering all the bases!

[@MCsCreations]

Fantastic! Thanks, Michael!!! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@tinkerman-q]

What made it a bit more practical to me was to copy the eeprom settings directly to the Marlin source code and enable the setting to automatically initialize eeprom when flashing. This simply too this annoying part out my head space so I don't think about it anymore whenever I reflash the firmware. No more forgetting to to adjust that one setting... The only two things I do again after flashing are Z probe offset and UBL mesh wizards. The offset wizard and UBL made me never have leveling issues again. Got rid of the springs and been happy ever after. Unfortunately those are not enabled by default, so I doubt a lot of people use these. Also discovered a code that loads mesh data after auto home, so no need to run auto leveling on every print anymore, so they start faster than ever.

[@charlesrestivo870]

Incredible video I don't understand a single word of it But it sounds great lol.Ill just wait until input shaping becomes more main stream

[@videomichel]

Thank you Michael. I was hoping for this one :)

[@reasonablebeing5392]

Great clear video as usual. I will be trying this out on the "ringiest" printer I have which is my most modded and workhorse original CR-10 due to its large bed size when I get a chance. The attractiveness is the increase in print speed for large models which will really scale down the print time.

[@TheRattleSnake3145]

It's not clear for beginners.

[@Lucas_sGarage]

​@@TheRattleSnake3145 c'mon man, if you already configured the firmware, the hardest part is done, uncomment input shaping and you are done for calibration

[@836dmar]

Love the channel. New to 3D printing so most of this is over my head. I’ve done a fair amount of manual machining and have built PCs but software/code mods are something I’m way behind on!

[@sofronio.]

The best input shaping tutorial!

[@patrickm2191]

Bro. Awesome! Great coverage of this!

[@Korvorkian1]

Great vid to watch while I wait for things to print

[@F_K3NT_D]

Will be doing this to my E3v2 this rainy weekend

[@broderp]

Great update, but only for those who know how to compile firmware. I'll have to wait for a bin file that offers this for an easy upgrade to my printer. 'll also wait for hardware support. I'm not into fiddling with code, but this is how it always starts, so I am grateful to all those who do this for the love of printing.

[@jakeengland1430]

No ones gonna force you but compiling marlin can barely be considered writing code, for the most part all it is is going through a single file and adding values in fields or deleting comments. It has the same complexity as editing an excel spreadsheet in reality. Ive compiled marlin many times in the past and not once have i had to actually write any "code" per se

[@MartinDerTolle]

@Jake England It is probably more the compiling itself or installing an IDE (probably visual studio is the only real choice here?) and then flashing it onto the hardware that would be more of a daunting task

[@jakeengland1430]

@@MartinDerTolle agreed but at the same time theres also an extension for VS code now that makes it super easy to flash marlin. Anyhow klipper is still by far the easiest of the 2 firmwares to install.

[@jimbarchuk]

It's not code it's configuration. The difference here is to embed values in the code rather than read from a config file.

[@Paul_Au]

I haven't tried it yet but the latest precompiled version of Mriscoc's (Ender3 V2/S1 Professional Firmware 20221222) says in the first line of the whats new section "Support for Input Shaping in the Special Configuration repository"

[@davydbar]

Gracias por compartir tu experiencia y conocimientos. Definitivamente voy a probarlo!

[@MrWobling]

Thank you - great explanation. You really have a knack for this 😊

[@hareboll]

This video just saved me the money I'd spend on an accelerometer and the need to change to an unfamiliar firmware in my quest for speed. Awesome video

[@sargfowler9603]

I've been using Klipper to have input shaping, but now wondering if I should try out Marlin once again. Thanks for the guide!

[@peterr.4768]

Im using the Software Meld for such comparisons...its really helpful for such kinds of jobs

[@DiegoDiaz-wo4iw]

You're the best thanks for all the good content you brings.

[@Golfboy-ze3le]

Super awesome video! I am very excited to do this! Now I just need to dedicate a full Saturday to this task. I am still running original firmware on my CR-10 Max. I bought the BIQU H2 extruder, but I still need to install that as well.

[@appye7994]

Okay so I updated my firmware to the latest official creality one for my ender 3 s1 pro. Low and behold it has input shaping already on there! It isn't in the screen menus but it is definitely there when looking at it from the console. Now I understand why these acceleration tests were not making sense! Input shaping was there with some generic values. Since I have remove the filament spool holder and instead have filament in a ptfe tube coming from a dry box draped over the top, I will go ahead and run this test. With CURA!

[@EIEIOOOOO241]

This is just what I needed!

[@DIYunpolished]

i also was able to do the overhang torcher test. set up an auxiliary fan on the gantry sorta how bambu has the aux fan on the wall this one is on the gantry tho. i was amazed at the print quality of the ender 3 pro

[@ufukozcelik9809]

Thank you for the video and I know these steps make sense for most of the people but I couldn't follow. Can't you show more of the steps with small examples instead of referring to previous videos, because the firmwares, folders and steps are different now. Still, huge fan of your work.

[@TheRattleSnake3145]

Yea, I doubt someone new to this could follow it.

[@kodiko]

4:43 How is the bed wheel bolt moving on it's own?

[@Stanurs3D]

Great videos as always. I like to test new feature so, this is next.. thanks.

[@priyan776]

Great videos! Thank you for the tips. I have 2 questions. 1. Does the input shaping works even when you use a host to print (like octoprint over usb)? 2. Can you transfer the input shape values from Klipper to Marlin on the same printer?

[@zacharywelvaert2235]

1. Yes it will work with SD card prints or Octoprint. Input shaping is a live smoothing algorithm. It will work regardless of how the MCU receives its gcode as it applies the counter frequency to the stepper movements. 2. Yes, the value is just of the printer's resonance frequency. How you arrive at that resonance is irrelevant. Provided that your tested and verified values from klipper (or reprap) are using ZV algorithm they should carry over perfectly. Of note, EI works better in my experience for beg slingers than ZV due to it being able to handle the more frequency changes caused by the moving bed. So if you have Klipper aand are using EI or 2HEI, you will likely notice a decline in quality if you step back to Marlin. ZV is just easier to calculate than any of the other algorithms, which is good for the common Marlin boards on the market and their lower processing power.

[@priyan776]

@@zacharywelvaert2235 thank you

[@Beakerzor]

when I pause KZbin to read your title text, like at 1:11 the youtube controls block the text. Otherwise thank you SO MUCH for this video. Cheers!

[@Beakerzor]

@@7h5ffc5s I'm using a computer with a mouse and keyboard : (

[@TheLEDwheel]

Can't believe it took me a year to see this video.Will be trying this on my Core XY as its painfully slow.

[@menezesbruno]

@Teaching Tech tip using VSCode: Open the original Configuration.h and your Configuration.h and then press CTRL + SHIFT + P, select Compare With and choose the desired file. Boom.

[@noway8233]

Thanks for yuor work, now im gone put this to work😊

[@aketo8082]

Sounds interessting, thank you.

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

Excellent!

[@poseidaoon]

Hi, great job. Maybe try bigger poulies, you will draw more amp for more torque, but your steppers will move less for more "bed" movement.

[@daliasprints9798]

Input shaping can get you way more than 30% faster. Print time scales with sqrt of acceleration, but you can easily get 10x the acceleration on all non-outer-perimeter extrusions, for more than triple speed on them.

[@frankdearr2772]

Great and usefull, thanks for sharing :) 👍

[@vobbel96]

hi, why should you rotate the tower for corexy 90 degrees? sure that it is better like this?

[@ThLDQ]

Great ! Now it would be great to compare the results of "Imput Shaping " on Klipper and Cura...

[@TheRattleSnake3145]

Goodluck to any beginners wanting to try this.

[@carlos33193]

I enable input shaping and made the test print at 15-60hz, but I see literally no difference between any of the layers. Does this mean my printer doesnt need it? Should I simply leave it disabled, I did the test print at 150mm speed. It's an ender 5 plus and I have all the corners reinforced with braces.

[@ImageSC]

What is your acceleration? Did you ever get to utilize it, did you turn it off since you saw no noticeable improvements? Been trying it out on mine and getting weird blobbing before or after the seams.

[@Dramaican88]

Could you explain the logic behind rotating the ringing tower by 45 degrees if the system is coreXY? I thought that the vibration frequencies depend on the weight/mass that is moved per the X and Y axis, not because of motor pulley+belt elasticity. Or is it both? Can the algorithms counter ringing due to belt elasticity? I have not seen before the recommendation for 45 degree rotation for coreXY systems.

[@Golding87X]

Not sure about this, but my guess is it's because of the way they are adjusting the setting per motor. CoreXY's use both motors when travelling in X or Y so the test wouldn't isolate each motor if the part was set to 0 degrees.

[@Golding87X]

@Bubo Bubobubo haha. Beat me to it.

[@Dramaican88]

@Bubo Bubobubo Thank you for the answer. The thing is the physical system on a coreXY still has differences in weight on the X and Y axis because of the gantry. In a coreXY setup the mass moving along the X is still less than the mass moving along the Y axis. Along the X axis the toolhead is moving only and along the Y axis the toolhead plus the X crossbeam are moving together. I do know that in order to move only in X and/or only in Y, both motors are engaged. As Michael says later on in the video for when to recalibrate input shaper, the third reason is change in weight. Thus this applies for a coreXY system as well, for example changing the X cross beam from an aluminium profile to a carbon fiber beam or going from 2 MGN9 rails to a single MGN12 rail (Voron 2.4 vs Voron 2.4R2 spec). So I am not sure I understand how motor engagement is linked to the vibrations. Maybe it is belt elasticity and that is why the second reason to recalibrate input shaper is belt tension, but still in that case I don't understand how the vibration algorithm is linked to the motor pulley + belt tension and can counter/compensate for that. If it is a difference in belt tension, then I would think that the fix is to make the belt tension even for A and B motors, not calibrate input shaping to overcome ringing artifacts due to bad belt tension.

[@AshleyGittins]

@@Dramaican88 I think the point is that even though resonances will have all sorts of "vectors" in their effect on the printer, the calibration is about what compensation to apply to each motor in order to try to cancel it out. So it makes sense to take measurements that align with each motor's axis of movement, so you can optimise the correction accordingly. Resonances that contribute to both axes will be proportionately corrected by each. Since the correction can only be applied to a movement direction it makes sense to measure and correct on that same direction. Measuring it otherwise would add a heap of transform complication which would at best reach the same result. I'm talking only from gut theory and not actual experience with testing or the implementation of the tuning method, so take with appropriate volumes of salt 🙂

[@Lucas_sGarage]

its because in core xy printers every movment is a compinaion of the 2 motors, except for straight 45º movments

[@DennisMurphey]

Is there a way we can hook out printer to the internet and allow a smart Guy like you log in and super tune the Firmware while guiding the user/me on hardware install to support such updates Like Active Resonance Compensation ARC sounds great it says exactly what it going to do. I have had 4 Cars Motor controller tuned this way and several PC tune ups this way can we do it with the 3D Printer?????/ Dennis

[@ArcanePath360]

Fun fact: When you tilt your head side to side, your eyes will rotate in their sockets to stay level until they run out of travel room. And you cannot stop them from doing it

[@MichaelChin1994]

Actually, I have a rare gene and have manual control over mine. It's pretty hard to do if both my eyes are open, though. Really easy with one closed.

[@pacboygamer6728]

I have controle over mine if I'm in the shower and focus on the ground. When I tile my head I can sometimes lock them so my vision goes somewhat sideways. I just found out I could do it when I was just swaying in the shower and my vision locked on the ground.

[@king_james_official]

only when i focus on something

[@voldemort_from_wish3034]

Hey teaching tech, great video as always! I'm currently following throught it and doing your speed and max flow tuning test, and got up to 480 (i don't know how its even going up there, as there doesn't seem to even be any change in quality from 100 to 480). I did multiples tests, upping the feedrate to +20 per ''floor'', and so did 4 tests so far. My resulting prints don't even look like yours; it's all smooth, no over extrusion or ''fuzzy skin'' like yours show in the video at @5:36 . So i'm wondering if it could be my Marlin firmware limiting me, hence i jumped into the g-code of this. I then modified my M201, M203 and M204 like so : M201 X8000.00 Y8000.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 M203 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z10.00 E100.00 M204 P4000.00 R1000.00 T2000.00 My printer is an Ender 5 Pro. with SkrTree E3 v3 motherboard, bltouch, and modified hotend with 2 5015 fans blowing on the hotend for part cooling. I was wondering if you (or anyone reading this) would know if there was something limiting my printer in the speed department, hence why all the test looks the same (and are ''too'' perfect compared to yours). Looking forward to an answer! Thank you :)

Hi, Great video for its time since things move so fast. You couldnt point me in the right direction as I cant seem to find any Info On Automatic Resonance tuning for The BTT EBB42 setup..Lost have how to setup the canbus like you did but not anything of the Extra MCU setup for the Accelerometer connection setup. Klipper only has the USB or the Pi connection etc..??? Les

[@nigel_tufnell]

Great Video!!👌 What is that glaring pink filament you are using? Need that

[@centauri61032]

Great stuff! Thanks!!

[@whatif8741]

I already got my cr10 v3 moving fast. Now imma get it really moving 😆

[@atnfn]

I only have matte filament, but I noticed if you shine a flashlight just right along the surface you can see the ringing easily. Unfortunately... it doesn't really seem like this helps much at all for me. The whole surface has nearly the exact same ringing pattern all over it. There does seem to be some marginal differences but it doesn't look good anywhere.

[@EZPCTECH]

4:44 is your rith top corne levels itself automatically? :)

[@danielharris3827]

Love the clip of the polish hen! is it yours?

[@MrBrettStar]

If using Prusa Slicer then don't fall for the trap of leaving the "default" value in "acceleration control (advanced)" under "Print Settings">"Speed" I couldn't work out why everything was coming out so good.

[@ShaunHusain]

Using "meld" on Linux or in vs-code can select two files and right click and select compare to get easier ways to compare old and new config, just went through it here two or three times because needed bugfix version for the skr 1.3 but going to follow the vid now if can use input shaping.

[@zenjaya101]

the timing is just right, still amazed how firmware updates really improve 3D printing generally

[@wrxsubaru02]

Can you use the backlash compensation with the input shaping? I noticed that in the adv file too but not sure if it is needed... Also, should i turn off adaptive step smoothing? my motors are very noisy when I adjust linear advanced values, so i dont know what is causing it. I disabled s curve but not sure what else i need to disable.

[@MrLelopes]

I came here to upgrade my marlin firmware, but I am thinking that this is just so much work everytime that it may be better to just switch to klipper firmware.

[@atnfn]

I've never tried to make my ender 5 print faster. I tried printing this ringing tower and change all the settings in the slicer like in this video. It didn't work cause it still only printed at the default ender 5 print speed (I guess it's around 40-45mm/s, obviously that didn't cause any ringing). Must be some setting I didn't change that the video didn't mention. (EDIT, Found the problem, was "auto cooling" in filament settings. Recently bought a Bambu X1 Carbon, so I thought I'd speed up my ender 5 a bit so it doesn't seem as pathetically slow in comparison. Hmm, when I change the profile to "normal speed" instead of the one where I increased the speed it actually prints faster (checking the Gcode, the G1 FXXXX number is much higher). I can't find the setting that somehow cripples the speed.

[@plesioo]

You just saved me so much headache I was wondering why the printer kept slowing down after the first layer (where the fan is off) thank you!

[@likiyeah]

Hello, but there is a prepared version of Marlin with imput shaping already enabled for the Flsun Q5? It would be the Top.

[@SteveMoore71]

Rather than doing an M503 so you can manually re-add all those settings back after a reset, apply them all in the firmware. You potentially save a TON of time if that data is ever lost!

[@armoth6958]

Great video as always thank you! Please please a request for a video on BTT Manta M8P board: connections and setup for Voron2.4? I'm battling, and there is very little info available for this. :-(

[@TheCraigMooney]

Ive added this but I’m getting a fairly big drop in corner sharpness and oval holes has anyone else experienced this?

[@xXKamoflashXx]

@Michael/Teaching Tech: Can you tell me, if this makes the GH Enterprise Steppers obsolete? (You made a Video on those approx. 3 Month ago)

[@zacharywelvaert2235]

i would say maybe. the GH stepper drivers do the calculations themselves, so it offloads any burden from the mainboard. so the slow downs in the menus he showed in this video will not happen with the GH drivers

[@nahinm]

IS there a way to translate the input shaping command that goes after layer change to use in Simplify3D?

[@YogiUnde]

This is great! Can you please do a video on Marlin Input shaper for Flsun Deltas?

[@aha5888]

Soo is klipper still necessarily better? Klipper has poor support regarding filament run out thingy related ...in my opinion .

[@PoetofHateSpeech]

Klipper has much more advanced and accurate input shaping and pressure advance

[@abelgarcia6890]

Can input shaping be used on an IDEX printer? If so, what other steps would be required?

[@zacharywelvaert2235]

Input Shaping on IDEX is spotty even on Klipper, I believe there they set the new value for each individual toolhead in the toolhead change macros. Marlin only has X and Y, no current support for an X1 and X2 values, so likely you will have to use the same input shaping X value for both toolheads. It's likely fine as both should be identical, so same moving mass

[@Drumaier]

Great video, I got it now after watching it for the second time 😂 but one question, will this work with ender neo?

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

Which leads to the question, what if any benefits do we get upgrading the hardware and moving to klipper now? and are there plans to add the accelerometer to marlin?

[@twanheijkoop6753]

No recompiling firmware on klipper, just edit the config file hit save and reboot. Id also consider mainsail/fluid as an upgrade to octoprint in my experience.

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

@@twanheijkoop6753 I don't find recompiling the chore people make it out to be and am certainly not going to do a hardware upgrade to avoid it.

[@zacharywelvaert2235]

@@noanyobiseniss7462i had a choice when they released marlin 2.1.2 on if i was staying on marlin or moving that printer to klipper. for me when it came down to it, what pushed me to klipper wasnt pressure advance of input shaping. i already had linear advance and 2.1.2 was going to have input shaping. what it was was the clunky way that octoprint felt to use. I already had the pi hooked up, so switching to klipper was a matter of a few minutes. Klipper's mainsail web interface works alot better than octoprint. tl;dr If i wasnt already using a pi with octoprint and marlin, i probably would not have bought one and gone to klipper.

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

@@zacharywelvaert2235 Your use case definitely makes the case for the move sensible.

[@zacharywelvaert2235]

@@noanyobiseniss7462 At this point, in the development cycle of marlin and with the boards currently being shipped with new printers, a stock printer does not need and will have little benefit to klipper for most people. But it comes as a suite of features that while available alacarte in the marlin world, is all bundled together in klipper.

[@diegovd7215]

Great, thanks!

[@IlJokerTheStranj]

I have a couple of questions. First, will any 32-bit board work? I have the BTT skr 1.4 turbo, it's 32-bit but it is a few years old now. Would this board work or is it too slow for input shaping? Also, I know this is a big ask, but is there any chance of this calibration technique being integrated into your 3d printer calibration site?

[@VolkanTaninmis]

With btt skr mini e3 v2 it work like wonders. Since you have 32 bit board, it should work. None of 32 bit boards are slow for marlin😀😀.. Please don't forget to update the marlin version to newest before printing the test model. disable s-curve and junction deviation and use classic jerk while compiling new frimware.

[@ClaymateDesigner]

I updated to 2.1.2 today with help from your video. Now.... Why doesn't anyone seem to publish a marking guide so we can know what these newer features do? For instance, I didn't know how to use the marlin bed leveling until you mentioned it. So... any thoughts ?

[@SoapySoap97]

Okay so.. just trying to wrap my head around this. Do a base line print. Then speed up print speed and acceleration and then do a print. Then mark and measure where quality starts getting worse and input into calculator and then input said values for X & Y?

[@ianthomas3023]

Geat explanation, any chance you could review input shaping in RepRap firmaware?

[@pamhunametalle9152]

Klipper is still much better, we love it not only for input shaping:)

[@techdiyer5290]

Where did you get the bird ?..... Chicken? That was really funny!!! Time: 1:38

[@mahughesnh]

Michael, I have watched this video 6 times. I have upgraded my firmware. I followed your instructions on the changes to the firmware to enable input shaping. I followed your instructions for slicer settings, and I have runt 4 of the test parts. I cannot see any difference in the finished parts looking at them in all lights, angles, etc. I have an Ender 3 with direct drive and a BTT mini 3 v3. If you or anyone else has any suggestions as to what I am doing wrong I would really appreciate it. Thanks, I always watch your videos and have used a lot that I have learned from them. I really expected good things from this one. The only thing I can think is that is that I am doing something wrong.

[@BradClarke]

I have the same problem. Ran multiple prints and don't see any discernable difference in the prints.

[@madmijk]

I kind of had the same problem with my heavy CoreXY printer, but it turned out that the default damping value of 0.15 was actually too high for the heavy oscillations I was experiencing. See my longer comment I posted under the video just now, but here's the TL;DR: Use the manual method for calculating the resonance frequency as presented in the Klipper documentation for resonance compensation. Then set those frequencies up for input shaping using the M593 command. Then slice the ringing tower, but instead use the following post processing command at layer changes: M593 D{(layer_num < 2 ? 0 : 0 + 1.0 * (layer_num - 2) / 297)} ; Damping Input Shaping Test Then you will get a tower that ramps up the damping factor on both axes from 0.0 to 1.0. Then you may see the appropriate damping factors to set up with the M593 command - in my case it turned out to be 0.0! So, the damping factor is important! Hopefully now you may get better results.

[@madmijk]

Oh, right - and after those tests it is wise to then rerun the 15-60Hz test print to really fine tune the resonance frequency.

[@abo_bandar4375]

Nice video. Is input shaping from marlin compatible with all printers? and how much ram/flash usage is too much when compiling?

[@ScottLahteine]

It can work even on AVR boards, but it does require a bit of RAM. The RAM is allocated at compile-time so the compiler can tell you if it has run out of RAM, and then you can tune the shaper settings to try to reduce RAM usage.

[@sgtkabukiman9411]

I have an Ender 3 Pro with a BTT SKR Mini E3 V3. Updated the firmware and the feedrate test settings make no difference. The final prints are identical and I started at 100mm/s and got to 440mm/s before giving up. Max X/Y feedrate is set at 500mm/s. Gcode shows it should be changing but it's like the printer just ignores it.

[@zacharywelvaert2235]

verify the max feedrate settings in your printer. you can command faster speeds all you want, but if the max settings in the firmware are to low the printer will just go up to that max and stop

[@sgtkabukiman9411]

@@zacharywelvaert2235 Max feedrate for X and Y is 500mm/s.

[@atnfn]

What does it say under his finger at 8:55? 50000?

[@TheRealDunkelbund]

Thank you!

[@mayinjabob9380]

Hello, i was thinking since the BTT B1 TFT35 V3.0 Display Touch Screen is a 32 bit board that controls the printer in touch mode by just sending G & M commands. is there a way to implement input shaping on old 8bit board only by having a 32 bit screen talking to it.

[@llasher]

Thanks for the video. I came up with the comment flagging technique on my own, like a monkey at a typewriter who after millenia of pecking writes Hamlet. Using a (unique ideally) signature after // wherever anything is changed was the best way to keep track of my own changes as I am so disorganised and the systems of naming and quirks of Marlin (which seem at the same time arbitrary and intentionally cryptic) don't help.