Testing the Wham Bam carbon fiber plate - The ultimate 3D printer bed?

[@TeachingTech]

For some reason there are a lot of comments pointing out that you are only only printing on the resin. This is true, which is why I have a chapter of the video dedicated to pointing this out and getting Wham Bam's response. 12:16

[@klickeldiklick]

I am not really buying it... they use many fancy marketing words, aren't they? Can someone explain it in simpler words? Are they saying "yes, you are printing only on resin, but this is our resin and it is better". And are they claiming, only carbon fibers prevent the resin from being ripped off the surface of the printbed?

[@LeftJoystick]

@@klickeldiklick You guys are being so weird about this. Where was this complaining when you were buying spring steel sheets (like the ones that come with Prusa machines)? You’re not printing **on** Steel.

[@markuskunath5815]

I guess the carbon fiber makes a very thin layer of resin over it possible wich is better bonded to the fibers (if you ripp out parts of this kind of beds its usualy the hard and unflexible part that comes of). Beside that - it allows for this thin film on a normal steel sheet, what makes it better compatible to other kinds of steel sheets. But maybe they are doing it just for the fancy carbon fiber look - who knows :P.

[@TeachingTech]

I am happy for people to come to whatever conclusion they like. I just want them to watch the whole video before commenting and making a point that is clearly addressed.

[@dcf476]

A perfect example is to compare steel with steel. You can buy american made steel, australian made steel then there's chinesium steel. They're all 'steel' but I will guarantee that the american and australian steel pass multiple structural tests but the chinesium will probably pass just a couple as the inconsistency of production and quality of base materials is off the charts! Whambam had found the goldilocks zone of the resin, are strictly sticking to the recipe and are using carbon fibre for structural integrity, flexibility for bending release and lightness.

[@BobWidlefish]

1:58 I love the cameo from Easy Composites. He’s a great teacher!

[@krazed0451]

That channel is the gold standard for introductory carbon tutorials, for sure!

[@k20Fritz]

Peter is a good guy. I believe in his products and have used them for years. Perks of Having them Local to me!

[@dougingraham5807]

Around 6 years ago I made a carbon fiber build surface for my CR-10. I bonded solid copper wire to the left and right edges of the plate so I could use the resistance of the carbon fiber as the bed heater. This plate was the entirety of the build area. Unfortunately the resistance of the plate was much lower than expected and I was using 100 amps at about half a volt to get 50 watts of heated bed. I abandoned the project because even if I made it 1/4 as thick this would still be 25 amps at 2 volts and that is about as thin as would be practical. The low mass of the plate made this ideal for Y thrasher type printers. I did consider a sandwich of carbon fiber on top and bottom layers with a center of fiberglass. This has issues with different thermal expansion properties of the different layers. Ultimately an interesting idea but too expensive in practice. The coated steel flex build plates on a core XY printer are a better solution. My plate was not removeable and was certainly not flexible. Not sure why the carbon fiber is needed in the Wham Bam plate. You aren't printing on the carbon, you are printing on the resin binder. Carbon fiber melts at just above 3650C. The 140C limit is most likely the resin. I used a higher temp resin with my project but its cost was part of the problem. The carbon fiber adds nothing to this build plate except the appearance of the 2x2 twill pattern. Coating the steel plate with the resin alone should give it all the same physical properties.

[@St0RM33]

yeah, just marketting bs..just use frp plate, same resin you print on lol for 99% cheaper

[@BobWidlefish]

How did you power that monster? 100A sounds like you would need an arc welder. Do you have a bench power supply that will put out 100A at 500mV??

[@Guardian_Arias]

I was just thinking, why not just power the plate directly? At least that would be sick. Although a failed attempt, you could just run a single strand back and fourth at the top most layer.

[@dougingraham5807]

@@BobWidlefish I've got an old Lambda EMS supply that will do 0-5 volts at up to 300 amps. It takes either 208 three phase or 240 volt at 30 amps. I plug it in to the dryer outlet. It was originally used for some kind of electroplating. I had extra localized heating at the interface between the carbon fiber and the copper wire it was bonded to.

[@ericperkins3078]

sounds like a killing table.

[@piconano]

I bought a double sided PIE plate last year and it still looks new after printing about 7kg of various filaments including PLA, PETG and TPU. It was like $20 if I remember correct. It works like a charm. I can't justify anything else more expensive. It looks dope though.

[@TechMasterRus]

Carbon fiber does not block magnetic field! It's just not magnetic and creates a gap between magnet and magnetic material on the other side.

[@rondlh20]

Interesting, "no self release" can be a good thing when you need to recover a part after power failure. To have alternatives is always a good thing

[@cynic5581]

Meanwhile I’m still using a glass textured plate covered in children’s glue stick. Running it through the dishwasher with the rest of the dishes to clean it once there is 1/8” glue stick on it. 😂

[@rrrlasse2]

I started using mirror glass for all materials and never looked back. No damaging, super flat and smooth with no texture, and it won't warp with big nylon/ABS parts

[@riba2233]

do you use glue for nylon?

[@fouzaialaa7962]

@@riba2233 with a mirror ,you use glue on everything , also if you have a bed slinger ,make sure to take into consideration that your bed is significantly heavier now !!

[@riba2233]

@@fouzaialaa7962 thanks, and what glue works for nylon for you?

[@rrrlasse2]

@@riba2233 I use PVA glue (indoor wooden glue) for nylon. It binds so well that it works even for non-CF nylon. I don't use anything for PLA or PETG, the key is just that it must be super clean (soapy water, then polish with dry paper towel)

[@riba2233]

@@rrrlasse2 ok thanks, and do you have any issues with petg sticking too well to glass?

[@WhamBamSystems]

thanks for the nice video Michael. One very important correction: the prices on the website you were showing will be the prices once these are on regular sale. During this presale period you get 20% off the prices listed. Therefore the 258 x 258 plate is MSRP $59 but with the 20% discount during the pre-sale, the customer only pays $47.20 I hope this helps and you are able to correct this.

[@aeonjoey3d]

Thanks for this clarification

[@aeonjoey3d]

Pre-ordered it, a pex replacement sheet, and some stickers. promos are greate :)

[@floodo1]

oh snap

[@TeachingTech]

Sorry about that mistake. There is an edit in place to trim out that 4 seconds!

[@Martial-Mat]

Your own web site makes this far from clear.

[@danieldeutschen]

Warping problems with PA filaments are usually due to the bed and/or chamber temperature being too high. PAs are semi-crinstalline and therefore crystallize and shrink above a certain temp. 100° bed temperature is excessive for most PA materials, especially those usually found in cheaper filaments. For example, I usually print Luvocom 9742 (called PAHT-CF, a highly modified and most likely semi aromatic PA6) at 75° chamber. Any higher and it will first become too soft, and later crystallize and warp heavily.

[@digital0785]

i effectively made this for one of my printers.. bought an adhesive magnetic sheet and a 1.5mm cf plate enough to stay flexible but it worked well

[@woodwaker1]

Looks promising. I have Wham Bam PEI sheets on all of my printers and most also have the textured that I can swap out. These were not cheap, but really do the job without any adhesive for PLA and ABS. I think my two Rat Rigs were close to $500 for the set. I don't print much PETG, but would probably use something as a barrier to protect the sheet.

[@darktherapy]

I prefer a PEI sheet for its self releasing properties. Really handy for continuous printing where the head knocks the part off the bed for the next print to start

[@kcee3dee]

Thanks as always for your details and focus on the facts. I am sure you had your own reservations/curiosities on the CF element since you're also a racing enthusiast (well, I used to track..) and it's pros/cons, "hype factor" (carbon fiber valve stems, for instance), best use cases, etc.. First glance it seems gimmicky, CF being a hype tool, but it does make sense once you get past the "printing on the resin" mindset. If Wham Bam is truly controlling it's manufacturing process from start to finish, then I wouldn't mind trying it out for ASA and my other odd filament choices that do not like the usual PEI. You did the hard and pricey part of using up filament to see what works, so I appreciate it!

[@JMill0420]

I have been using a carbon-fiber heat bed for almost 2 years now on my X1C I never change plates; it literally works with every single filament. I highly recommend 10/10.

[@clutchboi4038]

Even nylon?

[@davidzizza]

I ordered one and will let you know the results. I currently have a very stubborn print that gets knocked over at some point every time, so if it prints successfully with this, I will be very pleased.

[@lukerickert5203]

CFRP (mostly made in with prepreg tape) is used for molds for large aircraft parts. (wing skins for the 787 etc) The main issue with high temperature printing or autoclave cured cfrp for that matter is thermal expansion. Depending on the lay-up cfrp can actually shrink as it heats. Many of the molds also used Invar but that stuff is crazy expensive and very heavy. For 3d printing it makes sense at very high enclosure temperatures. It would be possible to use different fibers but as carbon is the high end option there are going to be better resin choices and higher quality fibers to choose from.

[@misharodigin9674]

I'm still using good old regular mate glass bed with glue, just for relayability reasons. I print a lot, about 30kg/month on it, and and it's still zero damage to it. The only significant downside is inability to use fast bed leveling probes like Beacon.

[@cyphre]

Seems surprisingly good! More of a PETG user myself anyway, so I guess I'll look into G10 plates as well.

[@mobilechaosyt]

I use a Wham Bam PEX plate on my P1P using the high temp plate setting for PLA. I also don’t clean the plate because the buildup of material seems to make the prints stick better. When I print outside of my “normal” printing area I do find prints don’t stick as well. This was the same with the textured PEI plate. I do like the PEX plate because the smooth print surface makes a good flat surface when making cosplay armor. Not really certain in my use case if switching to something else matters over just having more PEX plates available to print on.

[@thefakemaker]

I used carbon fibre plate on my cr10 for a long time. A flexible option is very appealing

[@benjamindeldon1532]

I’m using one just made out of CF (and epoxy of course) since half a year and it’s doing great. I’m printing mostly PC-GF with the bed at 180C (170C in reality at the top of the surface) in combination with stick glue: I can simply remove the bed (the at those temperature is soft and flexible) and leave it on a flat surface for 20 min to then have the parts coming off by themselves. The printer is a modified 3NTR A4V2 and it comes by stock with that plate.

[@tjpprojects7192]

For PLA, the creality glass beds with the layer that releases the print when cool has always worked well for me. No adhesives, great adhesion, etc...

[@JohnHartono]

Any news on sv08 tool changer?

[@bartsimpson7399]

Yes yes yes

[@lonewolfsstuck]

Meanwhile im using a Tempered glass bed connected with thermal tape that is good up to 190c. No issues at any temps. My only complaints about glass is that for a bed slinger it has a bunch of mass and that would be where i can see CF being better. Try Sunlu's aPLA (anti string PLA) it is the only filament i cant get to stick to smooth glass without gluestick. But textured TG no issues.

[@aeonjoey3d]

@Teaching Tech, how are you handling bed temp differences with each plate? When I started using G10 plates I had to set up new filament profiles with the bed temps in Bambu Studio/Orca so I ended up with duplicates for every filament I wanted to use. If I set it up properly via the Custom Filaments panel in BB Studio, I could still use G10 plates with Bambu Handy and print without going to the computer. Do you have a better method?

[@berlinberlin4246]

+1 for it, it's a good question

[@A1N0]

Set the Bambu to "Hot Plate" and problem solved. Place a code sticker on it if you have one. For PLA I do increase it to 60C as PLA is 55C for the hot plate. All other temps are standard hot plate temps.

[@coledavidson5630]

4:32 where did you get this garolite/g10 bed? I need one!!! As recommended by Maker's Muse I got an FR-4 sheet (which is what most things labeled "garolite" or "g10" actually are) at the thickness he said, but it is WAY too thick for my setup which has an inductive probe. This floppy thing looks like it would conform to my print bed much better so that the inductive leveling can still function. If anyone sees this and knows, PLEASE let me know!

[@Xorat]

Hey there, i would love to see a review off the Bigtreetech eddy sensor for bed leveling. I havent found a good review on it yet! Keep up the good work!

[@crowguy506]

G10 is functionally identical and leagues cheaper. The level of adhesion is basically a single time adjustment with fine sandpaper.

[@iansabrewolfe]

I’m wondering why the carbon fiber is need at all. Why not use just the epoxy resin to coat the plate leave the fiber reinforcement out completely.

[@elleryfg7853]

I was about to say the same. What provides the adhesion properties is the resin they use to coat the carbon fiber sheet. I don't see how this is different to using fiberglass for the base material. The carbon fibers don't add any adhesion properties

[@frowin2]

@@elleryfg7853 Same thought. It might be due to the fact, that other materials may deform at very high temperatures? And may stay deformed? In the beginning of the video, he claimed that the bed will stay in shape... maybe it is a concern with other beds. However, this one also has a metal bottom, right? But yeah, it's restrained by the carbon fiber. I don't know. I guess a lot of marketing here. People may think it will last forever because CARBON FIBER but the functional part is the surface. Being epoxy.

[@jimmanis6717]

It's like concrete without using rebar. Using the cloth layers adds durability and provides backing strength. Like how a framed home has very little strength until the wallboard is attached. Like the back on cheap bookshelves.

[@elleryfg7853]

@@jimmanis6717 that's clear. But why carbon fiber and not just fiberglass

[@jimmanis6717]

@@elleryfg7853 carbon fibre cloth is massively stronger than spun glass. Like the difference between a hammer and a window.

[@martinathome296]

I use a G10 buildplate for everything I print and after this video I am happy to stay with G10.

[@decuhh4323]

This has exactly ONE advantage over a 20x cheaper G10 bed, and that's the magnetic plate. They would have had a more effective product had they just glued G10 to spring steel

[@exiom-xyz]

I have made exactly this a few years ago… a 0.5mm sheet of carbon fiber on a spring steel plate To actually make good use of the carbon fiber… you actually need to sand back the resin so that the carbon fiber is exposed… things stick better and leaves behind a holographic like carbon fiber pattern There were already multiple KZbin videos documenting this when I made mine 2-3 years ago

[@exiom-xyz]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jGmkkISKpp6Kj8ksi=gyeWtwju6o_oNWAa

[@ernieoporto1111]

Seems kind of like a missed opportunity for it to not leave the Carbon Fiber pattern on it. Are you not just printing on the epoxy then since the carbon fiber is encased and sealed in the epoxy? The filament is being laid on top of the thin layer of epoxy. I understand the strength component when it comes to carbon fiber in epoxy, but I feel like the use here seems strange. I feel like the bigger variable here would be the kind of epoxy used. Carbon fiber absorbs and holds heat very well, so I guess that's a small plus when used with a heated bed. Doesn't seem very worth it in the end, and just feels like yet another build plate.

[@IrocZIV]

He mentions this at the end

[@middleagebrotips3454]

Yes you are printing on top of epoxy, but your epoxy sheet is dimensionally reinforced by carbon fiber so it doesn't warp and deform potentially popping your print loose mid print.

[@mr.rapter4517]

I agree, there might only be slight differences from using one of the official plates, but since now it is 20% off, the prices are somewhat comparable and these look pretty slick so I'm thinking about getting one and keeping the stock Bambu Lab smooth PEI plate as a backup. If it brings some advances then very good, if not then at least it will look pretty cool in the printer I guess...

[@nikoraasu6929]

@@middleagebrotips3454 okay, so literally just G10

[@Guardian_Arias]

The biggest missed opportunity is not directly heating it since carbon fiber is a very good resistive heater with some angry pixies in the mix.

[@BelviGER]

Outside of special high end filaments i see print beds as a solved issue Using stock ldo or prusa parts i get perfect first layer adhesion with barely any cleaning ever

[@blockhead3654]

You for got the bling factor.

[@jwjeff11]

My Conclusion: just buy a garolite sheet from McMaster (1/32 inch thick is perfect) along with a magnetic-receptive sheet. Cut them both to size and enjoy. The result is super flexible and adheres just as good as the steel to a magnet bed.

[@fralem2938]

i still love my Princore Prinplate extrem (FR4 i think?!). PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA works like a charm. For TPU dont go over 40°C.

[@SkateSoup]

Saw a tester link these on the Magneto Discord and was hoping for a review to see if it was worth the eye watering price. Seems like an interesting product but I'm just not the use case for them as I only use PLA and sometimes PETG.

[@Theprofessor1212]

As i print mainly Nylon, nothing i have tested has ever come close to garolite.

[@cheffress]

It would be interesting ifwham bam put the same effort into the control of the production process of G10 as they did with this plate.

[@yuripolak]

I have a voron switchwire, and being a bed slinger, I use a cf sheet and print surface to reduce weight and get better speeds... Abs never sticks without glue(I use magigoo). And in my case it does leave a cf pattern on the first layer.

[@fouzaialaa7962]

guys guys guys ..... i know what your thinking ,why is CF there in the first place if your printing on resin , i think the carbon fiber is there to give the resin stability , you cant just coat the metal with resin and leave it at that ,the resign will deteriorate and crack and peal off ,resin is not good at sticking to itself and forming a good surface on its own, its way too brittle , carbon fiber gives the resin something to grab onto ,soak inside and give flexibility to the resin , the resin is now in contact with the steel back ,and CF ... just like if you drop a block of pure cured resin it will break or at least chip a corner ,while if you drop a CF reinforced block it wont get damaged

[@EscapeAero]

💯 my dude + the thermal stability. G10, spring steel, all have their warp from growth issues (coefficient of thermal expansion) during heating. It's why bed mesh leveling is done at temp. At this scale the growth from heat of a carbon reinforced resin is effectively zero. Only stuff growing or shrinking is the print itself.

[@Knowbody42]

It's a bit like the difference between having concrete by itself, and concrete with rebar inside it.

[@MetalheadAndNerd]

Glass fiber or cotton would do the same. Carbon fiber is only there because clueless people associate it with something high-end and high-performance and are willing to spend more money for it.

[@ericperkins3078]

Peter explained it. Purchase made.

[@middleagebrotips3454]

Probably as good as FR4 sheets

[@__qqq__]

And only 10x the price! E: Wait, I just remembered that the $5 sheet of FR4 I got was big enough for 2 beds for my printer, so that's actually 20x the price.

[@pmcquay1]

His experiences here exactly match my own with the different plastics on a cheap fr4 sheet. My thought is that if the carbon is made to order why not directly bond it to the plate with the epoxy, instead choosing 3m adhesive. Seems like just another failure point to me.

[@aeonjoey3d]

4:38 I was late to the party and you can't buy the BBL Engineering plate anymore, got any recommendation as a replacement? I like the Lightyear G10 for PETG (might replace it with this plate becuase you have to raise bed temp by 10 degrees every time you print which means you need duplicates of your favorite filament profiles) I haven't yet printed ABS and ASA yet, but I just bought the Voxel Bento Box specifically to do so, so I'm researching my options :)

[@riba2233]

just use textured pei.

[@floodingchen]

I do wonder if there is a more stiffer spring steel plate. Often when printing large ABS parts, the part warps slightly and brings the spring steel plate with it. Its not that the part is not adhearing to the plate but the plate is not stiff enough to resist the warping. I know others have experimented with ABS-GF with better dimension stability but it would still be nice to have a stiffer spring steel plate for people who don't want to upgrade the nozzle and extruder gears for fiber reinforced filaments.

[@blubug768]

that seems like the perfect place for a thiccc piece of glass.

[@DanielChaves1984]

Does the carbon aspect assist in even heating, given the heatsiak and retain that heat better?

[@3DDruckHupfer]

9:40 Dont take off prints from Dimafix with brute force. Let water soak between build plate and the part. Thats why my G10 plate is only damaged by its thousands prints. Over the time, i experienced the resin breaking off of the fiber, exposing the fiber to the surface.

[@BM-vv8fh]

Have you tried Mamorubot polypropylene build plates? Been using one a few years now. Durable, great adhesion for lots of filaments, self releases as it cools, no gluestick or mess EVER. Im a big fan. Curious to hear your thoughts.

[@peterle987]

cover a steelplate in resin only - fibers are for stability only, whats provided from the steel plate itself. PEI plates do not have any fibers too - no need. (I use standard PEI sheets - where I take care of only one material for one side, and after about 2000h printtime the are in pretty great condition (except one original creality plate, where the 50g free Original creality PLA sticks so brutally well, that the PEI coating released a bit and now there is a tiny hill - now I prevent Creality filaments on creality printers :-) )

[@klave8511]

Unless you are a resin manufacturer I can’t see what additional controls they can provide. Working with the PCB manufacturing industry I can assure you the PCBs are extremely well controlled for dielectric, heat conduction, voids, thickness etc. The electronics industry can’t tolerate variations on their boards. Switching between suppliers may show some variation.

[@markburton5292]

doesn't carbon also transfer heat better than glass? so more even heat with CF than glass fiber?

[@See-essEll]

Since the CF (at least partially) blocks the magnetic field, do these work with Beacon or other eddy-current bed leveling?

[@kazolar]

Would be worth testing, but beacon contact is available, so if the proximity mode is impacted, could switch over.

[@GonzosGizmos]

I have had excellent luck with this plate running ABS with no glue. It's weird that you did not, mine were stuck firm at 100C. At 90C it did self release early on me though.

[@suqmadiq69420]

How do they work with beds containing embedded magnets along with an eddy current probe like beacon?

[@BatIgor]

Still using a glass bed with ABS glue\slurry on it. Is there any reason to change my ways?

[@AustinTylerDean]

I'm wondering if the thinness gives an advantage to making a better flat surface. I'd love to see a bed map comparison between the G10 and the carbon fiber (if there's any negligible difference)

[@hironshy5337]

8:30 i can feel the pain :()

[@sebastianlauwers]

I’m fairly certain vacuum bags and autoclaves try to remove all the gasses that make up air, not just oxygen.

[@arminth]

Given, I paid less than 500€ for my Sovol SV08, paying far over 100€ just for a spare buildplate is pretty hard to justify. Especially, if you consider a good quality FR4 (Garolite) sheet is far cheaper! At 50€, I would have pre-ordered.

[@DeagleBingo]

ok so this raises another question: what kind of epoxy works best for this sort of use? that would be cool to know bc i could make my own garolite bed and then just mill it nice and flat.

[@MarkFraserWeather]

Looking at their description of the carbon fibre, they appear to be using a wet lay-up process, is there any reason why they're not using a pre-preg carbon fibre such as Fibredux 914C-933-42 which is cured at 175 degrees so can withstand a higher temperature?

[@Jerrie-Lenore]

I think the target market for these would best be bed-slinger, y-bed axis cartesian, printers where the reduced mass without compromising rigidity and versatility is most useful.

[@pmcquay1]

Fun fact, these systems (magnet sticker, steel sheet, some build surface bonded to the steel) are actually heavier than just a piece of borosilicate glass and some binder clips. To the tune of 100g heavier. Everyone forgets that the magnetic sheet is there. My favourite build surface is fr4 sheet with no magnetics.

[@derekkirkendall928]

What I dislike about the one-sided beds is that with repeated use it tends to wear down the PCB protective paint layer on the Prusa beds, eventually shorting them out. I found the way to fix it is to laminate the bare metal side with painter's tape.

[@fouzaialaa7962]

just put a layer of Kapton tape on the bed itself ,and then you dont have to warry about any plate you use after

[@tinkmaster1054]

As soon as I read their announcement email I was super confused as to why anyone would want this over a regular PEX coated plate...

[@RichFreeman]

I've heard it can print petg. I haven't seen an official compatibility data sheet yet, but for me that would be the main thing I'd look at before buying this. I use my PEX sheet for most things except petg, nylon, and ASA. I have a cheaper dedicated sheet for glue. If I'm going to use glue the rest of the sheet doesn't matter much anyway.

[@jwjeff11]

I'm pretty sure carbon fiber would perform basically the same as a g10 bed. Time to watch the bed and find out

[@Platonic_fish]

Shame you didnt test out PP, since this would be a great alternative to packing tape, and i wonder if this is able to be used as a cheap HT build plate like the carbon fiber one from visionminer

[@avocadoarms358]

It would all come down to the finish on that resin. If it’s planed perfectly flat with a pattern it should do well

[@BrentLeVasseur]

What bed or process should we use to print polypropylene filament (PP)? I can’t get it to stick to the bed properly.

[@hebijirik]

The whole time I was wondering if there is an advantage over G10 because I am very happy with G10. It sounds to me like the main advantages are for the manufacturer of the plates - having control over the process compared to when you just buy an industrial G10 sheet. But G10 when you make your own plates is so cheap I find it hard to justify buying something like this. I bought 4 pcs of 512x524mm sheets for my V-Core for roughly 70 USD. Even if I add the price of the whiteboard sticker to make one side magnetic they still cost about a third of what a replacement PEI sheet would cost me and this carbon fiber plate seems even more expensive than PEI.

[@gizmofactory]

What bed do you select in bambu slicer when using this bed?

[@BeefIngot]

This is legitimately a question and I just yolo bought this on his recommendation

[@iacopozucchetti5494]

How is going with sovol sv08 toolchanger ?

[@fouzaialaa7962]

its clearly better the bare PEI ,but PEI still does the job very very well , if they get the price down to match or even exceed the price of PEI by a little bit ,its 100% worth it for the durability ,but if you already have a PEI sheet and its in good working condition ,its not worth it to upgrade , when your PEI is worn out ,then it becomes appealing to get

[@daycred]

The SECOND I saw this thumbnail and heard you say it's genuine I was like "they do realize there JUST printing on resin right?? Like the carbon fiber is cute and all but it's just resin....

[@jwjeff11]

That was my same thought as well. What difference is there between carbon fiber encased in resin and fiberglass encased in resin? Not much at all.

[@CarloVaccariPlus]

​@@jwjeff11 thermal expansion

[@kilianlindlbauer8277]

​@@CarloVaccariPlusyep, carbon fibers basically dont change shape with different temperatures according to Wikipedia.

[@MetalheadAndNerd]

Jepp, it's just marketing and you see in the comments that it works great.

[@ILoveTinfoilHats]

Exactly this. IF you ever see something that's carbon fiber and you can't immediately tell why... it's probably just a gimmic. This bed is no different than printing on FR4 / Fiberglass (or G10/"Garolite" as some of you like to get the non-fire resistant version)

[@mariusj8542]

So no criticism, could be me just being slow on the uptake here, but how hot do you need when most pei or garolite plates handles most materials with ease? We are printing cf nylons and abs without any problems for our prototyping, and our printers are running thousands of hours each year.

Hello Michael, I have a Creality ender3 s1 pro printer, I don't have any problems with small prints, but when I want to print large prints, it says communication with the MCU is lost at different times and the printing process stops, when I want to continue from where it left off, it starts from the wrong position. Why does this machine give an error with large prints, I searched the internet and couldn't find much information that would be useful for me. I talked to a service and they told me that this could be due to overheating of the sonic pad, stepper or motherboard. I don't know what to do. Do you think cooling the steppers could be a solution, if you have published a video about this, I couldn't find it unfortunately. I would be very happy if you could give me advice. Unfortunately, I don't have enough technical knowledge on these issues. 😞

[@81olsen]

plate that comes with K1 is fine for me.. petg just take it off before the plate cools or you might damage the plate.. otherwise no stupid glue just clean it with rubbing alcohol ..

[@twincast2005]

I don't doubt Wham Bam's quality, but I feel the need to point out that AHLtec has been selling carbon fiber print plates for years.

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

Well I guess I'm GLaD I never found any G10 bed plates since their adhesion is apparently variable..I did get some Nanopolymer Adhesive tho, and it seems to work fairly decently

[@Tome4kkkk]

Bambulab's set of textured plates cost a kidney! Is Wham's offering better priced?

[@redheadsg1]

I know for a fact that i will damage any bed (with my bad bed leveling) i get in my hand so this carbon fiber plate is a no go for me.

[@TheRpg1964]

I bought the old Wham Bam build surfaces 5 years ago but I can no longer afford to buy these brilliant products because of shipping costs to Australia. Pity there are no Aussie retailers that can buy in bulk and reduce costs.

[@codyjepsen2031]

Still waiting for the SV08 toolchanger project

[@luke.perkin.inventor]

Having one bed per material isn't a bad shout.

[@sirseriously]

Why not PEI for asa?

[@WhoWatchesVideos]

While I get that the carbon fiber will keep a supremely tough hold on the epoxy, I can't help but feel like I'd rather just spend money on some binder clips and a whackton of FR4 sheets for a couple bucks apiece instead. Still, it seems like a good option for people who aren't trying to pinch pennies for an epoxy plate and have something more valuable than a $60 plate at stake.

[@FixDaily]

They should make kapton heated plates.

[@prtcl3]

While I understand the advantages which carbon fibre has, I don’t think it’s benefits are significant enough to justify the very high costs of the plate, especially when the main factor here seems to be the resin. Maybe it’s advantages may be worth it for commercial or engineering uses where the benefits matter more and the price would be less significant, however I think for most hobbyists, this definitely isn’t worth the price.

[@prtcl3]

As someone who mainly prints with PLA and PETG, and very rarely ABS, this product is probably not for me when a

[@aeonjoey3d]

So I got mine today (finally! lol) and am struggling to find where to heat soak the bed in Bambu Studio - I've seen a lot of gcode options but none that work for the X1C (just the X1E) anyone know how to heat soak a Bambu Lab printer bed for 5min?

[@chatroux399]

Why haven't you try pp and pc filament ? Interesting product but to expensive 15$ smooth pei does almost the same.

[@A1N0]

I've been using G10 for everything. For PLA use 60C. As you show, isn't "carbon fiber" really just epoxy in terms of bed? Probably like G10 but more expensive.

[@aeppikx]

dunno but i usually use only pei sheets for pla petg tpu i see no need for carbonplates

[@vodkanarancs1]

Just checked their site as I'm looking for a smooth bed which won't be damaged by petg. It's 3 times more expensive than normal beds and all of them are sold out😅 Maybe later then...

[@garretthazlett9116]

How is this any different than garolight or a Lightyear plate?

[@garretthazlett9116]

Lulz, answered right after I posted... Haha

[@CodyMartin-q7z]

I'm in the market for a nice, reliable build plate for our new QIDI MAX-3... YET These are sold out anyways soo... on to the next option

[@lucasrezende7214]

I think they look nice, don't seem to function much better than PEI but they sure are lookers, a bit too expenssive for my taste though.

[@cnc-maker]

I would argue that you are actually bonding to the resin, not the carbon fibers. Thus, you should just be able to create a resin sheet to bond to. The carbon fibers should not have any effect on the magnetism, so I am guessing that it is the thickness of the covering that is the issue, not the carbon fibers themselves. The carbon fibers solely reinforce the resin, which is their purpose in this application.

[@fouzaialaa7962]

i think the carbon fiber is there to give the resin stability , you cant just coat the metal with resin and leave it at that ,the resign will deteriorate and crack and peal off ,resin is not good at sticking to itself and forming a good surface on its own, its way too brittle , carbon fiber gives the resin something to grab onto ,soak inside and give flexibility to the resin , the resin is now in contact with the steel back ,and CF ... just like if you drop a block of pure cured resin it will break or at least chip a corner ,while if you drop a CF reinforced block it wont get damaged

[@sunriseshell]

I think they're confused. Carbon fiber blocks EMF but not magnetic force, right?