Team Associated RC10 B7 - the best 1/10th off road car? - the real review!

[@chowettgoes]

Flip your battery tabs over to stop that slop would be my suggestion. Great to see and hear your thoughts of the new kit build step by step. I’m an Xray driver so nice to hear the couple of references to older kits/comparison thoughts there. Happy racing although having watched you vid after the first run and the expense of that heavy crash I feel your pain. 😊

[@bigbuckoramma]

You really need to use the battery foams. If you battery is loose fore and aft in the holder, and you lawn dart the car, you will break the front tab of the battery brace off. Especially if you use a LiPo with curved corners, which puts more stress at the end of the holder tab. Obviously the bottom foam will help, but more importantly, run the side foams! The B6 brace never really required you to run any side foam, but because this new battery hold down system has a little wiggle room, the side foam helps to dampen that movement significantly. If you need a more precise fit for thr battery hold down tabs, use the long screw, with the short tab, and put ball stud shims top and bottom of the tab until you reach the desired height. Bottom shims for battery height. Top shims to make sure you dont run the screw too deep past the nut, and i to the side rail. Otherwise, pretty solid build.

[@TeamRC3D]

Cheers, yes forgot to put about them but if you watch our next video it al became pretty academic after race meeting Sunday

[@rcsmith5909]

It’s a Jolly old hamper👊🏻👍🏼

[@johnboyrichy5452]

You just turn the battery tabs upside down for the right height.

[@TeamRC3D]

Yes realised that but still not perfect

[@-xirx-]

​@@TeamRC3D can you recommend any rc clubs in Cambridgeshire for complete newbies that just want to have a bash and want to get into the hobby please?

[@TeamRC3D]

@@-xirx- Cambridge RC is large scale bashing

[@-xirx-]

@@TeamRC3D thanks. Bit out the blue but appreciate you replying.

[@rudiperez5315]

Ive had trouble with carbon steering blocks bearing recesses being too tight causing drag/binding. Stock better fit, I’ve tried three packs of carbon ones and most are too tight. Also had to shave a bit off the height to allow free movement

[@TeamRC3D]

We have not tried them in carbon but do know some of the earlier standards on had height issues

[@hyne1972]

What servo horn would you recommend. Thanks in advance

[@TeamRC3D]

Alloy one same size as standard hudy so a nice one but not cheap

[@gangstafish25]

AE servo horn in aluminum.

[@Synic08]

I put the shock bleeder down cause it gets smacked alot when its on top… just protecting it i presumed…

[@TeamRC3D]

Yes and keep some dust off it

[@tomvc1292]

still making my mind up buying a B7 or a Mugen seiki MSB1

[@TeamRC3D]

Go with what is most popular at your local club

[@MX-CO]

B7 is the most popular at every club I've ever seen

[@rudiperez5315]

@@tomvc1292 I had the same. I wanted the Mugen as I run their 1/8th but literally no one at my club runs the MSB1 or surrounding clubs for that matter so went with the B7 and it’s awesome

[@tomvc1292]

@@rudiperez5315 well I went for the MSB1. At my local club it's like 50/50 MSB1/B7 and my local hobbyshop has all the parts available, in the end whatever makes us happy will do:)

[@rudiperez5315]

@@tomvc1292Enjoy it, our shop has all the parts as well. I may pick one up as I am a big Mugen fan. Is it solid ?

[@kennysilvers-z4x]

NOPE, apparently the B7 has rear end flaws including the c block, chassis off by .5mm, and hinge pins have play. Good thing I'm more of a Losi guy.

[@TeamRC3D]

Yes check out our other videos on this!

[@gangstafish25]

Xray

[@TeamRC3D]

Had them got rid of them !

[@ProperSkill]

The ball diff is garbage. I destroyed 2 in 6 battery packs.

[@TeamRC3D]

Really.. Cannot have been set up correctly. Did you break them I properly?

[@5280Recreation]

2 in 6 packs? It’s not the diff, it’s you.

[@gangstafish25]

Say aluminum. I dare you.