Climbing in Portland? Respect the Rock

[@masterpropper2485]

Gotta say, I would really appreciate it if the BMC would show more of the respective area in their "Respect the Rock" series. This one's called "Climbing in Portland", but actually it could be shot anywhere and the information could apply to any sea cliff.

[@6darkness6eternal6]

Can't stress that first point enough. There are so many better crags to explore than the cuttings.

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Does this mean that the BMC is no longer suggesting to avoid climbing on Portland as per the guidance issued on the first easing of lockdown?

[@sssfulton]

www.thebmc.co.uk/can-i-start-climbing-and-hill-walking-again Preferrably not (the "stay local" bit, and the "rescue services are at reduced capacity" bit) But the government guidelines now allow you to do so, as long as you don't stay overnight. So the part where he says "wild camping isn't allowed ... there are plenty of other options" is false, there is exactly one option, go home afterwards.

[@gpropeaccessltd3843]

I read a long article on UKC from someone that lives in Portland and also fights for crag access rights. His opinion was that climbers were absolutely not welcome on Portland and that it could set back access rights that he and others have worked so hard for. Have these restrictions imposed by the locals been lifted now?

[@sssfulton]

According to BMC interpretation of the government guidelines, there is exactly one alternative to wild camping (which isn't allowed), and that is to go home. You're not allowed to stay overnight.

[@SWISSPOWERJET]

perfect tip thanks

[@richardeden1453]

You forgot to mention rappling off anchors with no lower offs. In order to stop wear on the bolts. As its costs time and money to replace those bolts.

[@masterpropper2485]

When it comes to sport climbing, rapping off is not to be advised as it is higher risk than lowering off, which just is the most common, safest way to get down in sport climbing. I understand the problem with the bolts. But I guess there should just be lower offs installed...