Tech 'n Tools: Hakko FR-300

Today, let's look at one of my favorite tools, the Hakko FR-300!
Music: www.bensound.com

[@FireguyNtx]

Finally after many many years, I broke down and bought one, it comes today, thanks for the review.

[@PinballWorkshop]

FireguyNtx Awesome! I love mine. Congrats!

[@thomasmickle7289]

This is on the top of my list for tools needed. I have been putting off most of my board work till I get one. Thanks for the vid!

[@PinballWorkshop]

Awesome. The FR-300 was discontinued a couple of weeks ago to be replaced with the FR-301. You may be able to pick up a FR-300 on the cheap!

[@RetroRepairs]

Ordered an FR-301 this weekend, looking forward to testing it out

[@JamesMulvenon]

"If you're doing any NVRam work this is a must have." God damn it.

[@salazarmighty2166]

great review, thanks a lot!

[@ericschulze5641]

Hey I just got one 03/2023 love it I have a perfect glass panel for a 1978 ? Flash pinball machine I'm in upstate NY I'd prefer to sell it to someone like you than run an ad

[@Goregoonswasteofspace]

You've got your ceramic paper filter in wrong my friend. It is supposed to go on the GUN side of the metal disk not the nozzle side. That metal disk is for the hot solder to hit against it and cool down in the chamber without clogging up the filter prematurely. Reflow the solder (especially with old oxidized solder) and you'll find it will suck out much more efficiently. Once it goes liquid, you DO move your nozzle, - VERY lightly - pressed against the board (you need to be able to seal it a bit for better suction to be created) in a tiny circular motion while sucking. It will keep solder from sweating and sticking the leads back to the through holes. By keeping the lead away from the holes it allows all the solder to have an unobstructed trip to palookaville. The suction also helps cool the components. You are right though about excessive pressure against the board or you will damage it. The key is the right temp, fresh solder and get in and out of there in as little time as possible. Shouldn't take more than 3 seconds per lead (give or take). I have the Hakko 808... LOVE IT! Thanks for sharing. And by the way, it's pronounced... hawk-oh :c)

[@PinballWorkshop]

You caught me on the filter paper. I noticed that after the video! Thanks for sharing your tips!

[@Goregoonswasteofspace]

No problem my friend, just wanted to be sure you realized about the filter. Have a good one!

[@Honza7208]

Than you for nice review. Hakko is on the way :-) And what about long nozzles, like N61-14, are they useful👌?

[@Raven7886]

I need that PCB holder. What is it? I am working on PinBoards as well.

[@johncunningham5435]

I just received my Hakko FR-300 "love it, must have" Question! where can you purchase replacement filters? "Great presentation"

[@PinballWorkshop]

Hi John! I picked mine up at GoKimco.com. Enjoy!

[@johncunningham5435]

Thank you for the tip; just got my replacement filters in the mail.

[@haggy38]

You need to apply flux, that will make easer to suck the solder and don't damage the board.

[@forthosewhodare7325]

That's the last thing you want to do is apply flux. You will be changing out filter every 5 minutes.

[@roerdomp16e]

Obviously a great but quite an expensive machine. I have used the Hakko 474 which works fine. But I picked up a (yes, Chinese) ZD-8915 desoldering station a while ago and although the build quality is probably not the very best, its heating power and suction is a lot better than the Hakko 474. Tips are fine, parts are cheap and I bought mine for 70 Euros!!! A new Hakko 474 costed 10 x the price. And I have done a lot of work with it without ANY issue.