TEF

A 3-in-1 video with an unboxing and two teardowns!
Wanna help support this electronics fool?
/ thatelectronicsfool
www.paypal.me/theworkbenchYT
ko-fi.com/thatelectronicsfool
00:00 Intro
04:52 The Unboxening
08:30 Robot General Overview
11:20 Base Station General Overview
16:41 Base Station Teardown Start
21:34 Base Station Inside Overview
25:28 Power Supply Removal
27:07 Dirty Water Tank Full Sensor
27:53 Auto Fill/Drain Opening Silicone Gasket
28:41 Dirty Water Reservoir Pump
30:31 Dirty Water Flow Sensor
33:10 Flow Sensor and Blower Mounting Base
33:27 Mop Drying Air Heater
34:40 Flow Sensor and Blower Mounting Base Removal
35:00 Bottom Optical Communication Board
36:45 Charging Contacts
37:03 Lower Basin Water Level Electrodes
38:00 Hot Water T Proper Mounting Detail
38:22 Reinstalling Flow Sensor/Blower Mounting Base and Air Heater
39:24 Vacuum Motor Removal
44:25 Behind The Cleaner Fluid Tank
44:54 Water Heater Unit And Zip Tie Shennanigans
46:44 Water Heater And Diverter Valve Removal
48:48 Clean Water Pump Removal
50:13 Cake and grief counseling will be available at the conclusion of the test.
50:45 Mainboard
52:38 Is That USB Type C We See?
53:58 Whew, What A Relief (Valve)
55:07 Bae caught me tearin' down
55:33 Removing The Inner Water Container Tub Chassis
57:23 Front LED Indicator Board
57:55 Clean Water Level Sensor
59:37 How Do They Communicate Tho?
1:00:38 Vacuum Bag Presence Switch
1:01:22 Fluid Flow Explained
1:06:12 Base Station Conclusions
1:07:53 Robot Teardown Start
1:08:58 Roboswing Bottom Cover Removal
1:10:56 Dust Bin Air Flow Observations
1:12:37 Main Bottom Cover Removal
1:14:39 Battery Removal
1:14:58 Top Cover And Bumper Screws
1:16:25 Drive Wheel Removal Investigation
1:17:25 Side Brush Motor Removal Investigation
1:17:52 Top Side Trim Removal
1:18:20 Top Lid Hinge Removal
1:18:53 Lidar Cover Removal
1:19:57 Can The Lidar Come Out To Play?
1:20:26 Bumper Removal
1:22:11 Top Cover Removal And Observations
1:29:00 Let's Look At The Lidar
1:33:26 It's Listening! (Microphone Location)
1:33:47 Accessing Buttons And Mainboard
1:35:00 Bumper LEDs
1:35:38 Buttons Daughter Board
1:36:23 Mainboard Overview
1:38:27 Can You See What I SOC?
1:39:16 Mainboard Removal
1:41:23 Side Brush Motor Removal
1:42:05 Wheel Motor Assembly Removal
1:45:46 Roller Brush Housing Assembly Removal
1:48:52 Cable Craziness And Distribution Board
1:49:24 Cliff Sensors And Wall Sensor
1:50:28 The Speaking Speaker
1:50:49 Roboswing Assembly Removal Attempt
1:51:50 Rear Optical Board Connections And Wiring On Rear End
1:53:26 Dust Bin Emptying Duct Removal
1:53:55 Stationary Mop Motor Removal
1:56:15 Roboswing Assembly And Vacuum Duct Removal
1:57:48 Vacuum Blower Removal
2:01:04 Mop Motors Investigation Show And Tell
2:07:33 Mostly Empty Chassis, Water Inlet Pump, And Tank
2:08:50 Lil Pump
2:10:54 Front End Components Overview With Lasers!
2:10:34 Heavy Stuff (Iron Weight Block) And Camera Removal
2:14:00 Camera Indicator, Caster Wheel, And Carpet Sensor
2:16:50 Robot Teardown Conclusion
2:17:15 Robot Reassembly Time-lapse
2:20:04 Will It Still Work? Conclusion
Iron Horse - Silent Film Dark by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
Artist: incompetech.com/

[@ThatElectronicsFool]

It's seriously THAT easy to add chapters? It's almost too disappointingly easy... Guess I'll be doing the same for future videos. I hope you enjoy this video and please leave any feedback in the comments!

[@leehayes4019]

The time stamps rock!

[@joshuadworsky4225]

Bro got a photographic memory over here

[@BlazingNina]

I’m impressed

[@user-kn1ll5ok2f]

Thanks

[@keenheat3335]

thanks a lot for the tear down video, its so hard to find schematic online for the base station. almost had to replace mine until i find out one of the tubing was loose from over pressure. and just need reconnection

[@ThatElectronicsFool]

Which tube was it, if I may ask?

[@user-kn1ll5ok2f]

1:26:38 Hi,for this probelm do u suggest for me to disassemble & look if it has the same probelm & if so,do u suggest to use a masking tape to put it in place when putting it all back together? & 1 more do u think that i should open the base also to check the zip tie

[@ThatElectronicsFool]

Without completely disassembling the entire robot, it's possible to check if the cable is pinched by just removing the top cover at the front of the robot, where the Spot Clean, Power, and Home buttons are, which will give you access to two screws of the lidar cover. You need to also remove the two small rubber caps hiding the other two lidar cover screws under the dust bin access lid. Removing the hinge screws to completely remove the lid will make it easier to access the lidar. Once the lidar cover has been removed, there are three screws holding the lidar assembly to the robot. Removing those three *should* allow you to very easily lift the lidar completely out of the robot to check if the cable is pinched by the case. If you can't lift the lidar out completely (do not force it!), then that's a good indication that the cable is pinched. A piece of tape would certainly help to keep the cable in place, but as I found out later on, the robot can be completely reassembled without the lidar unit in place, just need to make sure the cable is plugged in the mainboard first. As for the zip ties in the base, while I don't think the tubing should come off under normal circumstances, if you're comfortable opening up the base to check yours, it may be worth doing. I don't know how much pressure the pump exerts on the water going out through the bottom nozzles, but I don't think it's very high as that would probably cause too much water to spray out of the base. It's really only meant to get the pads wet to clean. If you do decide to take your unit apart, please be careful and understand that you're doing it at your own risk. There are parts that could be damaged if not removed with care. Good luck! Also, thank you for the Super Thanks!

[@user-kn1ll5ok2f]

@@ThatElectronicsFool I can't removed the top cover,not sure why.Tried to use a flathead screwdriver to prick open,still can't.If i forced abit more it will crack (didn't want to crack it) and the front bumper cant seem to do so also despite following & repeating the video over & over

[@ThatElectronicsFool]

The cover piece I'm referring to is the one I called "a trim piece" at 1:17:51 in the video. Not sure if that's the one you're referring to. It really shouldn't require too much force to remove. I tried removing mine again just to check and it's easiest if you pull from the camera end of the robot first and pry upwards. You shouldn't need any tools to do so as it will easily lift with just fingers. The only thing I can think of is that maybe they glued yours down, for some reason? But that would be odd.

[@massiveian]

Any idea hiw much the robot water tank can hold?

[@ThatElectronicsFool]

I measured 1 gallon plus an additional 3 cups of water, (about 4.5L) before it started spilling out of the outlet tube. I was hoping the manual said how much, but it doesn't, and I don't see it marked on the tank either.

[@ThatElectronicsFool]

Oh wait, you asked about the tank in the robot. I'd say maybe about a cup or so? Pretty sure all the actual measurements are probably in liters, so I'm guessing maybe it was designed for about 0.25L.

[@massiveian]

Haha no worries. I found it on the website. 80ml so a little under 3fl oz. Seems little but I tested it tonight and didn't run out

[@ThatElectronicsFool]

Ah ok, I guess I thought it looked bigger than it was. Thanks for the info!

[@ivana6141]

My front bumper does not rebound. The sides rebound but the front around the camera has alot of friction. Do you know what might be the cause? It is brand new.

[@ThatElectronicsFool]

It's possible that something is jammed between the top cover where the buttons are and the bumper. It's fairly easy to remove the top cover by gently prying off. You'd have to investigate where exactly the friction is though. If it feels like it's somewhere inside the bumper, then there might be something more serious.

[@ivana6141]

@ThatElectronicsFool I took off the bumper but couldn't see anything obvious. My guess is the cutout for the camera module was too tight as that was the only part creating friction. I bent the bumper springs to overcome the friction and that fixed it.

[@julianfp1952]

Great video. Thank you. On the water tanks is it possible/easy to detach the lids from the tanks? I’m thinking perhaps by sliding out the metal (I assume) rod running through the centre of the hinge so that it comes apart. I’ve been giving some thought about how I could add a plumbing kit (auto fill the clean water tank and auto empty the dirty water tank) for pretty much any high-end robot that doesn’t officially offer that feature. My conclusion is that in principle it’s pretty trivial to do. For the dirty water there are quite compact 12 boat bilge pumps available with integrated water level activation switches so that is as simple as dropping one of those into the bottom of the dirty water tank and it will keep the level to maybe about 1” or less of water. For the auto-fill all that is needed is to plumb water into it terminating at a small float valve mounted maybe half way up the clean water tank so that it essentially becomes a constantly replenished header tank. I would choose components designed for flexible hose connection (about 12mm/half-inch or maybe 1” at most) rather than copper pipe so the only issue really is getting that plumbing and 12V power for the bilge pump into the tanks without drilling holes in the dock and tanks and voiding the warranty. Pretty much the first thing you found on the dock tear down was that cover on the back that will be perfect to get stuff into the dock so now all that is left is how to actually get inside the tanks without drilling through the lids hence my question about the hinges maybe being detachable or dismantleable because if they are then you could just take off the lids and feed everything in through the top.

[@ThatElectronicsFool]

Yes, it appears that the lids could come off by just removing the pins. The main issue I see with the dirty water tank is that it relies on a vacuum being pulled by the pump on one of the two ports it has, and with no lid, the pump will run, but not pull a vacuum on the tank to suck the water up. You'd need some way to deal with that issue as well.

[@julianfp1952]

@@ThatElectronicsFool Thanks, that’s great to hear and the vacuum observation is useful (essential!). I think that’s easily fixed though. My desire to remove the lids is not to not have any lids on the tanks, rather it’s to avoid voiding the warranty by drilling holes in the dreame-supplied lids. Once I’ve removed the Dreame lids from the tanks I can easily cut a couple of sheets of Perspex to size, drill the necessary holes in them and seal around the (in the case of the waste-water tank) outlet water tube and 12V pump supply to maintain a vacuum and then tape that home-made replacement lid to the top of the tank with duct tape to create a good seal. Making it Perspex will allow me to see in to spot any obvious issues and in the rare event it needs to be removed it won’t be a huge job to take it off and then replace and reseal it after I’ve done whatever I need to do. It’ll look ugly but that will all be hidden underneath the top lid of the dock so that doesn’t matter.

[@adrispiro9426]

What about the deregent is going inside the robot tank or not?

[@ThatElectronicsFool]

No, the tank in the robot only holds clean water. The cleaning fluid is only used to clean the mops at the base station.

[@ivana6141]

Would it be possible to replace the main board of the Chinese model to a international mainboard?

[@ThatElectronicsFool]

No clue, honestly. I have no experience with any models other than this one. I would think they're built fairly identically. The only major difference I've seen mentioned about the two is something about a UV lamp somewhere, I'm assuming, in the base station of the Chinese models. There may be differences in the firmware of the base station and how it communicates with the robot also, though, to make sure they're compatible units. So it may not be as simple as just swapping the boards.

[@ivana6141]

I thought the x models were region locked to china. The L model are nit region locked

[@ThatElectronicsFool]

I honestly don't know what any of the letters in the model numbers mean. The main difference I saw somewhere between this one and the China version is the lack of UV lamp. But I did see that some models are region locked.