Teknic ClearPath Servo Review 2 : Revenge of the Comments

[@StefsEngineering]

Thanks for the video! I appriciate the time you took to make it. There is not that much information available about those clearpath servo's and every little bit helps. I definately plan to use them on my next CNC build or rebuild.

[@HandsonCNC]

Stef's Engineering glad you found the info useful. I’m still very happy with my choose for sure. :).

[@StefsEngineering]

Good to know, My current project will be finished with (as is common on "low budget" builds) stepper motors. I did allready decide that the next project will have these clearpath servo's! Now I have to decide what to make next (3D printer, Laser cutter, Mill, etc.)

[@ryang6513]

Josh, building my PRO4896 with Clearpath servos now. Actually assembling the rack and pinion drive right now. No keys included, bummer. I was reading in the Clearpath manual the following: Avoid using shaft keys when possible. Although ClearPath includes a keyway feature on the shaft, Teknic does not generally recommend the use of keys. Keys tend to cause runout and backlash errors, particularly in reciprocating, precision positioning motion applications. I'm wondering if you're using keys or what Clearpath recommends, which are zero-backlash curved jaw couplings made by manufacturers such as Ruland.

[@HandsonCNC]

I did in fact use key in keyways and they work fine, I have no detectable backlash beyond the backlash in the gears (which is tiny as well)

[@Marc_Miller]

Yes, I can imagine stressing your brand new machine out with all the shaking and noise might be a bit never racking when you don't know what to expect. I was curious what that involved so thank you for showing the auto tune process. Love those slow motion shots. And thumbs up for lab coats.

[@johnross3752]

What did you use for the motion controller

[@petrasvestartas4359]

Do you thing it is possible to mount Clearpath motor from the motor chassis itself? I know that there are typical 4 screws form nema23 motors, but are there any other mounting possibility outside those?

[@loganrose2791]

Absolutely love the setup and Cncrouterparts. I have a 4x8 from them as well. The only weak point is the Mach3 software. I would have definitely went with UNCNC for many reasons, including accuracy.

[@nuthinbuttrubl89]

While I'm incredibly confused about the inches per minute per second thing, I'll pay that no mind and say that at 22000rpm, a respectable feed rate in wood would be at least 220ipm to maintain a .005 chip load per tooth with a 2 flute cutter (0.01ipr). Considering the thinning effect you get from having 40% engagement, it's really less than that even, which is why your surface finish looked so good. Too slow of a feed with a high rpm will generate more heat than is necessary and may cause your material to burn. Your size difference may also have been in part to the grind diameter of your cutter. A 1/2" end mill is never 0.5", they're usually 0.496-0.498

[@robertroy6094]

Take 4 measurements of the diameter, measure at 45 degrees apart. The more points you measure at will tell how well round the circle is.

[@HandsonCNC]

My tuning video covers making sure X and Y are well calibrated... I am still working out a method to test concentricity (roundness) like a ball-bar tester would.. though measured in thousandths instead of millionths like most ball-bar testers can. That is a ways out though.

[@camt1818]

Perhaps I missed it, but what acceleration do you run on the z axis? And max feed too while I'm asking (avid says "200+ ipm" so I'm sticking to 200 haha).

[@jasonruch3529]

Check the road at 2 spots 90 degrees apart holding the caliper with 2 hands!

[@johnwebb2984]

Can you provide what kit you purchased to build your CNC?

[@HandsonCNC]

The CNC frame and mechanical components are an Avid CNC... The electronics weren't from a kit.. I built them out myself.

[@artisandice]

if you haven't already, bolt that machine to the floor. your rigidity will go through the roof and you'll actually be able to use more the acceleration of the clear paths. acceleration is way more important in cut quality, lower cycle time, and longer tool life. i love the clear path servos. we run them on 6 different machines. from cnc routers to converted tormachs and taigs. cut everything from wood to tungsten carbide with them. they are amazeballs.

[@HandsonCNC]

oh cool you converted your 770 and 1100 to CRs! nice... I'll talk to the wife about bolting down the CNC to the garage floor.. she may have....... opinions on that :-P

[@artisandice]

yup. that we did. check out these anchors from hilti. basically a concrete nutsert. if you want to move the machine around the old nutserts will be flush with the floor. doesn't leave anything sticking up.

[@HandsonCNC]

nice, just checked out the drop in anchors... Once I get the shop layout to a place where I trust it (granted really that CNC ain't moving :-P... I'll dig into converting my legs over to bolt down.. That may save me having to build an steel frame (which I was considering)

[@artisandice]

speaking from experience, make bolting that thing down a priority. it did wonder for correcting the flobberyness of our machine. we fought it for nearly 2 years before bolting it down. once we did so, it was a whole order of magnitude better.

[@real_sovol_sv01_experience91]

With how much movement you have in the leg kit... 1) Would you still buy the leg kit today or build something custom? 2) It seems like you have to reduce how much you are pushing the servos due to the movement of the machine...would it have made more sense in retrospect to go with less powerful servos to save money? It seems like you have an amount of torque/power that is unusable due to what the stand or even the Avid frame can handle.

[@Z-add]

So the next step is to reinforce the frame and make it more rigid.

[@kenrobertson8239]

Did you auto-tune your Z and did you do it at 100% torque? I’m setting up a new Avid Pro With Cleapaths wasn’t sure if the Z could take all that force.

[@HandsonCNC]

Z handled it fine back then, I imagine it handles it fine now too :-)

[@carlopadillo7904]

Hi Josh. Yes, I agree with you, the bigger the machine driven with smaller motor would end up running slow. Anyways, I also consulted Teknic company for the right size of the motor for my machine but need to supply them with important parameters like weight of the moving parts, max. velocity, max. acceleration and etc. By the way, what max velocity, max acceleration, max cutting force and DC voltage to be used could you recommend for each axis assuming cutting an aluminum work piece?

[@pfmcnamara]

Super cool and inspiring video. I'm just getting ready to order the Pro4848 and was going to order the plug and play motor and drive system, but your videos are causing me to re-think that. One very basic question: how do you synchronize the two x-axis motors? How does the system know that they should be treated as master/slave?

[@HandsonCNC]

Mach 3/4 as the controller software is responsible for the master/slave relationship. You can have it mirror the signal (because the motors do have to be mirrored too) or you can configure (via USB) to have one of the motors mirror on its own..

[@jarppax7690]

14:50 75inch/minute/seconds? not add up lol. or is it minimum? wel then write is 75inch/min something lol

[@stevetriton1060]

Awesome Josh! Totally new to your channel and really like you taking the time and explaining things. I would love to replace my steppers for ClearPath servos. However, there is not a lot of information on KZbin explaining the wiring in detail. My concussion comes from wiring the servos directly into Bob? The controller. Would love for you to do a video on how easy it is to wire 3 or 4 axises. When wiring to Bob do wire in series? There are 8 wires that go to Bob. How, where, why? Thanks Josh! -Steve

[@HandsonCNC]

Thanks for watching and joining in.. and the question about wiring is worth asking for sure.. So you have 4 pairs of wires for signal going to the Stepper, however they may only take up 4 or 5 pins on your Bob (and of that say 2 are per motor, the others can be shared)... The reality is these servos are being MORE flexible then your average driver. Each pair of wires is its own signal and could come from completely separate controllers/bobs/what ever.. By doing this, by not having 1 step, 1 direction, 1 enable, and 1 ground/common.. But instead having an enable+ enable-, step+, step-, and so on and so forth each pin set is independent. So how do you wire this up on your bob? Well ignoring the HLFB (high level feebdack) you can take the common that is coming off your bob and it can be split to be the common for your step, direction & enable (thats 3 wires down regarding your bob).. then often times the enable it self is split off a single pin, so that is [N] more wires down to 1 (where N is the number of motors you have).. Your HLFB is a little weird.. What it is going to do is complete a circuit when something goes wrong, so you want to send it 5v on its + pin, and then hook its return wire into an input pin on your Bob.. NeoCNC7 actually does a video on this.. though I admit its a little confusing.. Its kind of funny that both you and Ike (above) asked essentially the same question.. I may put together a white-boarding video session or post a PDF of a schematic wiring up a ClearPath servo as a PDF or something for you guys.. Hopefully though, this response makes things a little more clear and you don't have to wait for that.

[@arthursargsian]

Hi Josh. Thanks for sharing the knowledge here. I am building my own CNC machine, which is comparable to the machine you have roughly 4’x8’ and was wondering if you spare torque up in your sleeve with servos that you use. Originally I was suggested to use 23P series motors by Teknic tech, but I asked him to beef it up to 34S series for better precision and extra torque. Basically I am debating between 3421S-ELS and 3432S-ELS, so my question to you is: which series servos do you use in combination with the size of the pinion and what is you max comfortable/reasonable speed cutting aluminum or non ferrous materials? Thanks in advance and good luck with everything! Best, Arthur

[@HandsonCNC]

The exact servos I used is mentioned in this video : kzbin.info/www/bejne/pGSWl3ajitpsd5o I have the 3421S-ELN servos.. They have plenty of torque, they are, really, stronger than the machine needs or the aluminum frame can handle... Torque was never an issue for cutting aluminum, I had two issues that lead to me buying a mill.. 1) chip clearing/coolant 2) machine rigidity.. You can cut brass and aluminum with an aluminum machine, just very very slowly, and you have to take care to figure out how you are going to clear your chips.. If your goal is to cut aluminum or other non ferrous metals, I would suggest you look into a mill.. If cutting aluminum is an after thougtht/nice to have and your patient then you can get away with it on a CNC Router vs. a CNC Mill.

[@Z-add]

Are you using the smoothstepper controller that comes with cncrouterparts? Did you talk to cncrouterparts about reinforcing the frame?

[@HandsonCNC]

Yes I am using a Smoothstepper ethernet controller with Mach 4... And I have chatted with CNC RouterParts about the frame... While the frame flexes, it all flexes together so it hasn't impacted quality.

[@Z-add]

That spindle has serious cutting power. That isn't the stock spindle from cncrouterparts

[@HandsonCNC]

That spindle is rated the same as the CNCRP spindle (2.2kw 3 phase spindle)

[@radikult-custom]

I have a question, after auto tune with the CP software, do you still use motor tunning in mach3? And I was thinking on buying a crp benchtop and adding the CPsk servos (nema23) , would you say that the servos can make an acme screw axis as persicese as a ball screw?

[@HandsonCNC]

your issue with Acme screws is going to be backlash.. The precision of any axis is going to be your distance/step +/- any backlash you have built up over your program. So if your acme screw won't mechanically get more precise than it is.. Though the servos will give you more confidence in smaller movements vs. micro stepping. You will still use mach to handle backlash and your steps/inch.. To get an idea of tuning precision (not including backlash) check out my other video on that section.. May help you understand the Mach side of things.. While I am using Mach 4, its close in this regard to mach 3. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i2LWiJSferuibtU

[@rbyt2010]

Thanks for the great video! I have pretty much the same setup (CNCRP + CP 3421s) - just smaller table and I run LinuxCNC. I agree with the legs shaking :) the CP's can definitely dish out more than the 8020 legs can comfortably take. I think I noticed when you were tuning/copying files you tuned your Y with no added mass and used this as-is for your X and Xs. Was this just to simplify the demo or was the additional mass immaterial :-)) to the tuning.

[@HandsonCNC]

Cool that we have similar setups... When talking with Teknic they suggested tuning without extra mass and testing the servos to see if they moved well enough & try to use Fine Tuning... Then adding the mass if I couldn't get the servos to move well with just Y axis and Fine tuning... So when I tuned them initially (back in Nov/Dec) I tuned without the extra mass and they have worked ever since.. I am sure there are some machines were extra mass may be needed.. But at least for my build of a CNCRP Pro + CP servos its got enough data to tune on just moving the Y axis (which is probably 35 or 40% of the total mass anyways) Come to think of it, if I hadn't had my spindle and my water cooler on the Gantry then perhaps it wouldn't have been enough weight.

[@pdavis8383]

You had commented in nycnc video that you are using 2 clear path servos to move a 200# gantry is this video the gantry that you were referring to and if so what is the gear reduction amount and what motors?

[@davebroere9078]

Josh - CNCRP (AVID) said their (X/Y) rack axes move 3.14”/motor revolution and (Z) ball screw axis moves 10mm/motor rev. Can you confirm this? (I have the same ClearPath motors and router you do) I’d like to set the Rack and Ball Screw motors to move approximately the same distance/step by configuring the different motors to different # of Steps/Rev. From what I can tell the Rack motors would need to be set to 6400 steps/rev and the ball screw motor would need to be set at 800 steps/rev. If I did my math right, that would result in all movements being ~ 2030 steps/inch - a significnt improvement over the stepper motor’s 200 steps/in! CORRECTION: CNCRP support says the rack axes move .9871”/motor revolution.

[@HandsonCNC]

Their numbers are a great ballpark.. I have some videos on fine-tuning (kzbin.info/www/bejne/i2LWiJSferuibtU and kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKvSg3itZcRloJo) . check those out.. With a span as long as our beds, fine tuning is crucial as being a few steps off can be a pretty big deal 8 feet later.

[@thewoodologist8176]

After running these for a few years now, have you ever felt like the machine is lacking power? I'm trying to decide between going with the clearpaths or DMM servos with dyn4 drives, the DMM are much faster and more powerful but also come in almost a 1000$ more. I'm currently running the nema34's on my 5x10 and I have experienced lost steps and a couple stalls in the last few years so I'm thinking an upgrade wouldn't hurt

[@HandsonCNC]

I have never felt like there was not enough power.. To the contrary, these are probably over sized as the aluminum isn't rigid enough in my opinion to keep up with these servos

[@eyaleliyahu]

Josh, i know that this is an old vid but i must say that your rails sounds really noisy like they are not clean or not lubricated enough, in addition.. while you're cutting the wood chips looked like they got in to the rails which is supper bad, why didn't you cover the rauls with a sleeve to counteract that? thanks for the video and all the info.

[@HandsonCNC]

The bearings have lubricant in them and there are sweepers on them... I have seen some customizations that cover the rails, but for these routers exposed rails is super common. Good suggestions though.. It is one of the things that I do have to constantly clean.

[@carlopadillo7904]

Additional question: What brand and where did you buy your water cooled spindle? Is it 2.2kw or 1.5kw spindle?

[@HandsonCNC]

Spindle and VFD were generics off of Ebay, nothing special..

[@JAMESHOPKINSIBXCNC]

That is only off by ten thousandths of an inch!!! Pretty good for wood indeed!!

[@HandsonCNC]

thanks... I am going to tune it more with some gauge blocks out 6".. I have an idea for a poor mans ballbar calibration test that I'll shoot a video on once I get it all worked out.

[@JAMESHOPKINSIBXCNC]

Check infusion to make sure your built in tolerances are set low as accumulating tolerances can effect your overall machining outcome.

[@HandsonCNC]

Yah I was measuring my bits, and they are small by about 3 thousandths too! (.247).. And yes tolerances in Fusion for sure.. A lot go in to getting accuracy down in the thousandths that is for sure!

[@an1ma169]

How do you tune a dual motor axis, like X + Xs, is it done individually, which obviously isn't representative of how it's going to operate..or can they be done in tandem?

[@HandsonCNC]

Because X & Y both use rack and pinion, you use the Y tuning on both of the X servos, then you can tun the JAG a touch if you want to (I didn't need to)..

[@ikecobey6268]

Nice video!!! I am also planning on buying 4 of this motor on my new plasma table. I am only confuse on how to wire this motor. If ever you can make another video on how you wire it.

[@HandsonCNC]

Glad you enjoyed the video. I do covering wiring details in the first ClearPath servo review.. Is that what your looking for? If not I'll look into providing some more detailed information on wiring and configuring.

[@HandsonCNC]

Ike, I just gave a bit more of a detailed reply to Steve Francoeur below.. let me know if that helps you out on understanding the wiring a bit more... Thanks

[@ikecobey6268]

hi, i just reading the clearpath user manual right now the input A means ( direction ) and input B means ( steps)?

[@HandsonCNC]

Correct.. I just confirmed in my software.. A is direction and B is step.. If your using Mach 3/4 and an ethernet smoothstepper here is an image of how I configured mine (your mileage may very of course) instagram.com/p/BUt2PFzBVHu/

[@ikecobey6268]

thanks a lot now i know how to wiring this motor, also the auto tuning of this motor( must be in installed in your machine) not in bench tuning ( i mean not installed on machine may be clamp on the vise or table) thanks

[@carlopadillo7904]

So all 3 axis use nema 34. Thank you for the response. A follow-up question: Would it be preferrable also to use nema 23 clear path servo for the 3 axis to do the job in a cnc machine built like yours? Or the x-axis should use nema 34 so that it can handle much of the work due to the gantry weight while other axis can use less torque capability like nema 23? I ask this so I can save money to buy other parts for my cnc.

[@HandsonCNC]

I think the only place you "could" shrink the motor size with limited impact would be the Z axis.. but even then, its going to be lifting or dropping 10 or 15 kilos so... You can run smaller stuff, and it will all work, you just can't run it as fast.. and the heavier the machine the bigger the motor (or slower you need to go)

[@Z-add]

I don't believe you made a video of how you added the servos to the machine. Did you buy the plug and play control box from crp without the steppers?

[@HandsonCNC]

The plug and play is not a great starting point for a ClearPath upgrade. Your paying for Stepper Drivers that you cant use and a power supply that is great but wrong for ClearPath servos. I’ll do a video on my electronics package here in a few, that will help sketch out how to set up this kind of electronics

[@Z-add]

@@HandsonCNC please include as much detail as possible. I want to know what to buy from cncrouterparts and what to exclude to get to the system you have.

[@yelims20]

sure looked like "Y" axis to everyone else in the world

[@CHRISINMCNEILL]

Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Are you using Mach or Linux?

[@HandsonCNC]

Your welcome. It was fun to make. I'm using Mach4

[@carlopadillo7904]

And what brand and where did you buy your VFD for your spindle?

[@HandsonCNC]

its just a off brand from E-bay that came with the spindle..

[@ikecobey6268]

i am using usbcnc cpu5b by edingcnc but the connection much same as mach3/4

[@carlopadillo7904]

Hi Josh. Will you kindly tell me what clear path servo motor spec. you use on x, y and z axis in your cnc machine?

[@HandsonCNC]

These are the ones I ordered www.teknic.com/model-info/CPM-SDSK-3421S-ELN/ Also check out my previous video on this topic as it breaks down the parts and the power supplies too.. (kzbin.info/www/bejne/pGSWl3ajitpsd5o)

[@AnthonyWebb7]

Curious what software/setup you used to do the picture in picture of your desktop and cnc machine?

[@HandsonCNC]

I use Camtasia (TechSmiths) for just about all editing and screen capture.. So what I did was had it screen recording while I had my camera recording, then just synced the two separate videos up and put one on top of the other in post.

[@Jonnywoods_049]

hey josh sorry for a repetitive question i know i read somewhere the model number of the clearpath you got and maybe even somewhere i think i read tim from teknic suggest a specific one for the 4896 but im trying to pic the perfect one and was looking at these CPM-SDSK-3411S-RLN could you coment on that choice? thanks man. and a side comment what do you think about running acorn from centroid ?

[@HandsonCNC]

Every implementation is different.. Your trading a lot of Torque for RPM. RPM will translate to rapids speed, which you can only get up to via good torque. I would ask your self what is the gearing/ratio of rotations to inch/mm of actual movement. CNC RP machines are roughly 1" to 1 rotation.. So when I picked the 3421S-ELN's I picked them because they had more torque, and at max RPM of ~1400 that translated to far faster then I would ever push my machine (1400" rapids just feels crazy!)... The ones your suggesting have about 2/3's the torque but about 2000 RPM maxes.. Do you need 2000 RPM or is torque more important? Thats a decision only you can make.. I also chose the enhanced to get 6400 steps or resolution instead of 1000.. Not sure I answered your question, but perhaps shead some light on why I choose what I did..

[@Jonnywoods_049]

Hands on CNC hey thanks a lot for a quick reply that certainly helps a lot! I sorta chose the lowest rpm option in that price range but I’ll look again and focus on a slower one! Thanks 👍🏻

[@Jonnywoods_049]

Hands on CNC yeh it actually looks like you picked the right one , your not really saving that much unless you go down to a NEMA 23 and there all much higher rpm 👎🏻

[@TechTomVideo]

Ok now i saw this video. so you performed autotune on the Y-Axis and copied those files onto the X-Motors. but what if the X-Motors aren't the same type as the Y-Motor? and isnt the dynamic different if 2 motors drive one axis? i mean - they obviously share the load. do you know wheter and how its possible to run a synchronized auto-tune routine on both X-Axis motors simultaneously?

[@HandsonCNC]

So if you don't have a "like" single motor axis, your going to need to talk to Teknic personally... Great news Teknic has fantastic engineers that will help you either A) configure the servos or B) help you design a tuning rig. Sorry I couldn't be more help... But seriously give them a call Monday.. The'll help you out.

[@TechTomVideo]

okay - thanks for your help so far. :)

[@shawncochran4503]

Did you have any problems with your spindle tripping you HLFB?

[@HandsonCNC]

I haven't had that issue. No.

[@QuebecoisSti]

Thx for the review! I want to retro-fit an old cnc glass cutting machine to do laser engraving. I wanted to contact Teknic but their website contact form is not working... showing up Database error when submitting the form... Any chance you have the general inquiry e-mail address ?

[@HandsonCNC]

I tend to just call them. They usually have someone call back pretty quickly.. All and all they have been good people.

[@imabeapirate]

thanks for the vid. Definitely upgrading my steppers to these! how do you choose spindle speed for wood? Also, my y-axis is dual ballscrew, so each motor for the gantry movement is the same direction; important distinction for your 99% reversed comment is that it is dependent on your drive type, just so new people don't get confused and wreck their table

[@HandsonCNC]

Oh! good point.. yes, if you do have a system where the gantry drive would move the same direction switching them would be just as bad as NOT switching them for the rest of us :-P.. Thanks for pointing that out :-)

[@HandsonCNC]

I always start from G-Wizard for my feeds and speeds.. www.cnccookbook.com/CCCNCSoftware.html... It almost never steers me wrong. And if its off, its not tool break off, its tweak your feeds off... A great piece of companion software.

[@axelweimann5274]

with the Clearpath servos they trip out extreamly fast if you Jam your Gantry or your hit the hard stops so i think its nearly imposible kill the rig. and you should tune every Servo on its own Axis for best results and not simply copy them vom X to Y

[@HandsonCNC]

if you have duel servo gantry you can't tune the gantry that requires two motors.. copying the config from the single motor to the dual servo gantry is Teknic guidance when you have a duel servo gantry system and your have the same transmission between the two axis.. If all your axis are single motor then your 100% correct you should tune each axis on its own..

[@magnusbeischer1264]

@@HandsonCNC I'm building a similar but smaller Avid CNC and I just asked that question yesterday to the Teknic support. They said (in short words) that auto tuning the single servo axis with added weight (half the weight of the double motor axis) will give you the setup to transfer to the double servo axis. Off cause you need to tune the single axis again without the extra weight. Haven't got all parts to test this yet, but the support answer from Teknic was very impressive.

[@Bigwingrider1800]

Not even holding the calipers right.

[@arsadkhan7361]

Can I control with grbl CNC controller as like stepper motor CNC machine

[@HandsonCNC]

Yes, CLEARpath servo's take step and direction just like you would wire to your drivers from your controller board.. Check out the first review where I go into more detail regarding wiring and config kzbin.info/www/bejne/pGSWl3ajitpsd5o

[@arsadkhan7361]

Thank you so much

[@amrmusa7217]

Iam bout i steel dont Know How cold u autotune the x axis u didnt plug it to your pc and do the autotune procces u did earlyer in the video

[@a0cdhd]

Great.........Except for the head banging racket. Most machinists that I know would rather hear what the machine is saying to them.

[@kirkduff2019]

Could you give me the model number of your motors ?

[@HandsonCNC]

Sure thing, they are 3421S-ELN

[@kchigley5309]

100 IPM / 22000 RPM / 2 Flutes = .0025 chipload. Not even remotely pushing it, especially in wood. I would very much prefer to hear the machine rather than music (or some quiet background music would be ok). I want to hear if the spindle RPM is dropping from non-engagement RPM. If the spindle isn't bogging, you have plenty of room to increase the feed rate. A bogging spindle produces compounding error because as the RPM decreases, the chipload increases and requires more power which the spindle doesn't have available so it spirals into a feedback loop of doom. :P Your mileage may vary due to the machine you have, but I've run a Haas SR-100 and a Weeke at 24000 RPM, 500IPM (.0105 IPT) in everything from pine to maple to HDPE plastic for roughing in my machining past. In addition to checking dimensional accuracy, you could also check roundness to detect error between X and Y movements. It could be as simple as clamping a dial test indicator to the spindle (look up Indicol if you don't have one already), putting the spindle at the center of the circle and sweeping the outside of the circle.

[@HandsonCNC]

Kenneth Higley lots of good comments. The machine I have is no where near the physical characteristics of a Haas. Being based on extruded aluminum and kind of fitting in the "prosumer" space. There is an upper boundary due to machine rigidity that I run into. If I got to bogging down the spindle I would have bigger problems then my servo torque readings ;). (Dreams of owning a Haas some day)

[@Bigwingrider1800]

it's called inertia i have the same problem my frame is all 3/4 alum (5' x 48" WT IS 300 PLUS)... and using larger steppers and .5 ball screws. I can run safely at 200 ipm mach3 acc is at 17. But now i really dont use it to much. A haas mini mill came into play..also have a tormach 770. SO NEEDLESS TO SAY IM PLAYING IN THE GARAGE AND HAVING FUN..PEACE

[@mattw7949]

Good content, but the music volume is waaaayyy too loud relative to the voice. I'm sitting here raising and lowering the volume.

[@HandsonCNC]

thank you for the feedback I'll keep that in consideration in future videos

[@engautomation]

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[@Runner50783]

Teknic now has a Clearpath (SC) line with G-Stop technology that I think would help reduce the vibrations even at extreme acceleration. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqjMnGCNa9CFl5o and kzbin.info/www/bejne/f53NpXquoK-bkNU I'm thinking on upgrading mines :D

[@HandsonCNC]

G-Stop is pretty cool tech!... That would make for a great project.. If I am reading it right though, it would be a feet of home-brew engineering to write Mach3/4 drivers for their controller board... Then again I also haven't dug into the docs yet.. If they are driven with the same pulse/direction signals that the SK's are driven by then awesome... Maybe if I ever get a mill, I'll move my SK's to it, and look into SC's for the Router Table.. Thanks for sharing!!

[@Runner50783]

They say you can enable the feat while operating on step and direction mode, they also said this is better than RAS. BTW, have you tried changing your RAS settings to improve the vibrations at high accelerations? on my laser cutter I use 16ms RAS but my machine is very low inertia compared to yours, RAS Vector smoothing technique that smooths out the edges of the trapezoidal motion profile. A setting higher than 16 ms does not work for me because I use extremely high acceleration values for my purposes, but for a CNC cutter, the acceleration used is much lower so going 35 ms or even more 100 ms may be good enough without sacrificing quality but gaining on speed. If you try, all of your axis must be set to the same RAS parameter to keep them in sync, specially X and Y

[@HandsonCNC]

I kept mine at 16ms because I am shooting for as much precision as I can reasonably get.. 100ms would be a 10th of a second... That could be a few thousands or more in movement that is "unplanned".. Which, when working with metal is deadly.. Wood & plastic 100th of an inch isn't a big deal.. but aluminum, man even 5thou is murder to correct for. That would be an interesting test though, cut some aluminum squares at different RAS jerk settings and measure them.. I would need a good micrometer though.. Food for thought.. Next up though my Wife wants me to make some Opendesk.cc tables for the sewing room :-P... So that's in the queue :-).

[@TeknicInc]

Hi Abraham, Thank you for your comments. The g-Stop is truly remarkable technology as seen in the video from your link. It appears that you did some homework. Well done. I want to make some points more clear regarding the proper implementation of the RAS and g-Stop settings. RAS (Regressive Auto-Spline) is an algorithm that changes the level of jerk and the derivative of jerk in the command and reduces the amount of machine vibration. The g-Stop goes several steps further and actually sculpts the command by changing the rate of acceleration and the points of inflection based on the machine design. Cutting shapes, at its highest level, is all about the proper commands. If the command is poor or inaccurate, the cut is sure to follow. When you add in your mechanical design, the machining process gets even more complicated. Based on your design, you can have varying degrees of backlash, flexing of the machine frame, vibration, etc. which can cause problems when cutting. Adding RAS and g-Stop to the command will reduce the amount of jerk in the command and the vibration in your mechanics. The higher the RAS/g-Stop settings, the lower the level of jerk in the command and the less vibration you should see. However, adding too much RAS/g-Stop can change the command enough to make the 90° corners of a rectangle rounded and a circle appear more like an oval. For wood and metal CNC cutting, most applications use a RAS setting of around 16ms. A lower setting may mean more machine vibration (and poor cut quality) and a higher setting may mean inaccurate cut patterns. If using the g-Stop, you would want the setting to be close to 16ms to maintain accurate cut profiles as well. At settings of this magnitude, there will be minimal benefit of implementing the g-Stop over the RAS for contouring machines like CNC. The g-Stop really shines when using point to point moves with high accelerations and velocities. Teknic Tom

[@Runner50783]

Thanks a lot for the information, RAS then is the way forward.

[@HouseProjectIT]

HI, thanks for the video, just one note from n international follower: sometimes you start talking really too quick and biting the words... the subs can't help.... autotune become Itunes :D

[@HandsonCNC]

Thanks for the feedback.. The video I have in the pipe is probably to change.. but I'll keep this in mind for future videos.

[@HouseProjectIT]

thanks again :) i'm thinking to use this motor in my 3d printer, is really so hard to configure the encoder correctly? i will use the 64oz or 112oz version.... same price but maybe 112 is too much.... waiting for the next video

[@phildalgleish2381]

I really like cnc informative videos... BUY... this isn't a concert... not entertainment channel ... its a technical teaching and learning vid... and I really want to like it...but I can't hear the sounds the machine is making because of the music.... Not trying to chap you or be negative, but Please make your vids with NO music to clutter up a very nice learning experience... Thank You

[@shearwatersoil1]

Cutting the circle your cutter was climbing onto the wood. The direction of cut should have been opposite . That is why the circle was larger than it should have been.

[@HandsonCNC]

Climb is standard for milling so you don’t cause chip thinning. What the actual cause was (found out later a bit later) the bit is .245 not .25 so it’s off by .1 due to not compensating for the actual tool.

[@arsadkhan7361]

Please reply

[@jackflash6377]

Tell me why we need the music? We're not here to be entertained but to gain knowledge. I vote.. no more music.

[@HandsonCNC]

Thanks for the feedback, I'll consider that as the channel matures..

[@jarppax7690]

24:56 is that proof of something? motor works? or you setup steps/rev correct use correct speeds and feed use actually correct tool diameter. tool never EXACT in this case it will do overside even its 100k machine becouse you did not use example 11.985 mm diame on 12mm tool and is it oversize becoz its wood or tool is dull.atleast its not under lol hundred is ALOT if that inches 5.5= 139.7mm 5.51=139.954mm. so you could say you are 2 paper thin over side. thats fucking bad. metric system is more acurate in your case 0.254 is small, but daily base 0.0254 is failed product LOL

[@gregheinrichs1419]

I could really do without the music.